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There’s a deli and wine bar next door owned by<br />
the hotel’s Michelin-starred chef: the appropriately<br />
named Merlin (Labron-Johnson), who can conjure<br />
magic out of marrows and a humble mash. Where<br />
once even a cucumber was a rarity on the high<br />
street, it is miraculous to find vegetables like oca,<br />
samphire and shiitake headlining the menu at<br />
his starred restaurant Osip (osiprestaurant.com)<br />
sourced locally, or in the kitchen gardens, which<br />
are Labron-Johnson’s passion. His mozzarella<br />
is from Somerset buffalo; there are the rosé<br />
vintages from vineyards near Glastonbury; truffles<br />
are foraged in the outlying woodland. The apple<br />
brandy, the locals like to say, is as good as any<br />
calvados, this one produced on the Somerset<br />
Levels by the Temperley family, whose aged cider is<br />
also famous, and whose Cider Bus is perhaps the<br />
hub of the Glastonbury Festival site. Unsurprisingly,<br />
daughter Alice Temperley’s fashion label, inspired<br />
by the mystical county of her birth, has relocated,<br />
last year, to a historic Victorian industrial building<br />
in nearby Ilminster, complete with workshops,<br />
retail floors, and, of course, the requisite cider bar.<br />
The heart of Somerset as an epicurean Eden<br />
is undoubtedly the kitchen garden, such as the<br />
Duke of Somerset’s new pub, The Bradley Hare<br />
SOMERSET SIGHTS<br />
Glastonbury Tor at sunset; facing<br />
page: inside Number One Bruton<br />
NetJets<br />
55
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