NETJETS EU VOLUME 15 2021

ON LOCATION
The thermal waters that filter through the
limestone of the Mendips as rain, bubble up
at 46 degrees centigrade
lived-in look (never mind that the owners are Greek
shipping magnates). You can even bring your
labrador or thoroughbred along for the weekend
break. The old-fashioned romantic scented gardens
and towering box-hedge walkways are girdled by
a ha-ha, the indoor-outdoor pool is firelit at night
and the beech tree drive was long enough to hide
RAF Spitfires in World War II. It offers customised
access to some of the most important landmarks
in Bath, like the Holburne Museum (holburne.
org), popularised as Lady Danbury’s palace in the
Bridgerton Netflix series. A short drive away, it has
brilliant exhibition spaces and a shop of original
goodies, including Christmas Frida Kahlo effigies for
the tree. In the adjoining Sydney Gardens you have
access to the Kennet and Avon canal for paddleboard
hire at Original Wild (originalwild.com).
THE HIGH-SPIRITED, modern-day Bridgerton vibe
continues to be channelled at Babington House
(sohohouse.com), although these days the
hedonistic excess is less unbridled around the baize
pool table – which is also no longer purple. This
lovely 18th-century manor house, the original Soho
House country club outpost, is some 20 minutes in
the other direction from Bath where you are spoilt
for choice when it comes to comfortable Georgian
country hotels. Its architectural counterpart, The
Pig – Near Bath (thepighotel.com), also sits as
comfortably as a teacup in a saucer in its rural
landscape, although the latter is more Beatrix Potter
cute than Bridgerton high-jinx; the Peter Rabbitstyle
potting shed restaurant comes complete
with shelves of pickled treats from the estate orchard.
WHAT TO DO
Of course, the hot springs of Bath are its raison
d’être, giving it status “as the first pleasure resort in
the kingdom”, thanks to Beau Nash in the 1700s.
The thermal waters that filter through the limestone
of the Mendips as rain, bubble up at 46 degrees
centigrade, an elixir for liver and skin. Cross Bath
(thermaebathspa.com), in a beautiful Regency
building, can be booked for exclusive use for up to
10 friends under an open roof. You can still drink
the curative waters at the Pump Room where Beau
Nash was fond of posting a list of rules designed
to keep the riff-raff out. No hats or aprons for
women, no boots or spurs for men. How he would
have blanched at the anoraks and backpacks of
today. But it’s hard for anything to sully the innate
elegance of this city, as you realise, strolling
through The Royal Crescent and Circus area. The
latter was built according to a masonic system
of symbols by architect John Wood, the Elder. If
you stand in the clump of trees in the Circus and
clap, the echo is a druidic marker like the serpents,
anchors and acorns above the front doors.
The two residential crescents are connected
by Brock Street, which is on a ley line aligned to
Stonehenge. Ley lines, those imagined channels of
earth energy, are a theme of the British Pilgrimage
Trust’s (britishpilgrimage.org) day walks around
Bath, taking you along ancient byways to secret
places, sacred oaks and swimming spots such as
at Warleigh Weir or near Iford Manor (ifordmanor.
co.uk) famous for its Italianate gardens, designed
by Harold Peto and a location for the film The
Secret Garden with Colin Firth. The cloister is a
backdrop for summer opera and the revamped
three-bedroom Rowley Cottage, which makes
a charming rental. Or go solo and walk the easy
10km signposted Skyline loop above Bath past
18th-century follies like Sham Castle and the
open fields of Widcombe and bluebell wood at
Smallcombe. Prior Park (nationaltrust.org) is under
repair this year, but the estate with its Palladian
Bridge epitomises the reinterpretation of the
classical that was the blueprint for the city of Bath.
WHERE TO SHOP
Behind the flawless façade the city presents to the
world, Bath has a refreshingly individual, creative
mindset best discovered browsing the city side
streets, with their independent boutiques and
artisanal sole traders. Escaping escalating London
rents, independents have migrated here: Graham
and Green and 8 Holland Street for furniture and
GROWING ITS OWN
The kitchen gardens at
The Newt outside Bruton
DOOKPHOTO
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