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Jeweller - February 2022

• Stronger together - Buying Groups get ready for 2022 with newfound vigour • The Great Retail Reset - Pandemic demonstrates that every cloud has a silver lining • Vale Peter Beck - Tribute to a jewellery industry icon

• Stronger together - Buying Groups get ready for 2022 with newfound vigour
• The Great Retail Reset - Pandemic demonstrates that every cloud has a silver lining
• Vale Peter Beck - Tribute to a jewellery industry icon

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VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY<br />

FEBRUARY <strong>2022</strong><br />

Stronger together<br />

BUYING GROUPS GET READY FOR<br />

<strong>2022</strong> WITH NEWFOUND VIGOUR<br />

The Great Retail Reset<br />

PANDEMIC DEMONSTRATES THAT<br />

EVERY CLOUD HAS A SILVER LINING<br />

Vale Peter Beck<br />

TRIBUTE TO A JEWELLERY<br />

INDUSTRY ICON


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Diamond specialist with the largest inventory of:<br />

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Quality diamond-set jewellery<br />

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Helping you shine<br />

yesterday, today<br />

& tomorrow.<br />

YOUR LEADING SUPPLIER OF PINK ARGYLE, WHITE DIAMONDS & DIAMOND JEWELLERY<br />

worldshiner.com


POSSIBLE


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Step outside of your<br />

business and... GROW!<br />

The key event timed for the jewellery community<br />

to connect for tomorrow and future success.<br />

March 12 – 13, <strong>2022</strong><br />

ICC Sydney Exhibition Centre<br />

Darling Harbour<br />

www.expertiseevents.com.au<br />

AUSTRALIA’S NO.1<br />

JEWELLERY EVENTS<br />

Est. 1990


BUYING GROUPS GET READY FOR<br />

<strong>2022</strong> WITH NEWFOUND VIGOUR<br />

VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY<br />

PANDEMIC DEMONSTRATES THAT<br />

EVERY CLOUD HAS A SILVER LINING<br />

FEBRUARY <strong>2022</strong><br />

TRIBUTE TO A JEWELLERY<br />

INDUSTRY ICON<br />

FEBRUARY <strong>2022</strong><br />

Contents<br />

This Month<br />

Industry Facets<br />

11 Editorial<br />

12 Upfront<br />

15 News<br />

30 Product Spotlight<br />

28<br />

32<br />

35<br />

56<br />

A TRIBUTE<br />

Vale Peter W Beck<br />

10 YEARS AGO<br />

Time Machine: <strong>February</strong> 2012<br />

LEARN ABOUT GEMS<br />

Part II: Synthetic Diamonds<br />

MY BENCH<br />

Darren Nancarrow<br />

38 <strong>2022</strong> PARADIGM SHIFT<br />

The Great Retail Reset<br />

4There is no doubt that The Great Retail Reset<br />

is happening. While it’s understandable that many<br />

small businesses are wondering what the future<br />

holds, not everything caused by COVID should be<br />

viewed as adverse.<br />

36 <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Showcase<br />

Features<br />

38<br />

43<br />

<strong>2022</strong> PARADIGM SHIFT<br />

The Great Retail Reset<br />

58<br />

SOAPBOX<br />

Gary Fitz-Roy<br />

BUYING GROUPS REPORT<br />

Rising stronger: valuable lessons from the pandemic<br />

Better Your Business<br />

43 BUYING GROUP REPORT<br />

Rising Stronger<br />

4Australia’s jewellery buying groups are<br />

in a unique position because they each<br />

have many members that are seen as<br />

part of a large family. Discover how each<br />

group has overcome the effects of COVID<br />

on businesses and in personal lives.<br />

50<br />

52<br />

53<br />

54<br />

55<br />

BUSINESS STRATEGY<br />

Christmas and New Year are over. JOSH STRUTT says start planning for it again now.<br />

SELLING<br />

SUE BARRETT has tips for rebuilding the mental well-being of your sales team.<br />

MANAGEMENT<br />

'First seek to understand, then be understood' – RYAN ESTIS encourages you to listen.<br />

MARKETING & PR<br />

STEVEN VAN BELLEGHEM shares the secret to an engaging customer experience.<br />

LOGGED ON<br />

GARRY GRANT outlines how your website user experience and SEO go hand in hand.<br />

35 LEARN ABOUT GEMS<br />

Synthetic Colour<br />

4With the success of growing gem-quality<br />

diamonds, the next step has been to<br />

produce an array of colour options. Learn<br />

about what gives the stones their hue.<br />

FRONT COVER Founded in 1970, Stuller<br />

offers more than 200,000 products including<br />

bridal jewellery, mountings, fine jewellery,<br />

diamonds, gemstones, findings, metals,<br />

tools, supplies, and digital solutions —<br />

everything a jeweller needs for success.<br />

With more than one million loose gemstones<br />

in stock and ready to ship, Stuller delivers a<br />

colorful selection, quality, and service.<br />

To learn more visit: Stuller.com/About<br />

Stronger together<br />

Stuller.com<br />

The Great Retail Reset<br />

Vale Peter Beck<br />

<strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 9


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Editor’s Desk<br />

Retail is dead. Long live retail!<br />

For more than a decade, people have been predicting the end of physical stores as choice and convenience lured<br />

customers away from the streets and into the cloud. But one thing is certain, and as demonstrated by the past<br />

two years, nothing is as ever as it first seems. ANGELA HAN explores what the future holds for retail.<br />

“Retail is dead,” shouted some experts!<br />

In fact, so sure have some doomsayers<br />

been about the demise of retail that a<br />

new term was coined: ‘retail apocalypse’.<br />

The notion started around 2010 soon<br />

after the Global Financial Crisis when<br />

many major retailers began closing their<br />

brick-and-mortar retail stores, especially<br />

international chains.<br />

The term gained prominence around 2017<br />

when it was first mentioned in The Atlantic<br />

to describe major retail bankruptcies<br />

and mass store closures of major US<br />

chains. Only two years later in 2019 – just<br />

before the pandemic – the US witnessed<br />

approximately 10,000 more businesses<br />

close their doors, which was reported as<br />

a 60 per cent increase on the year before.<br />

So it’s understandable that the harbingers<br />

of doom were already painting a dire<br />

picture of the future of retailing – a decade<br />

on, the prophecies were all coming true.<br />

Then finally in 2020 the real impact took<br />

hold, as COVID-19 went global.<br />

You could hear Chopin’s Funeral March<br />

while watching the retail dominoes<br />

collapse – the pandemic was the final kiss<br />

of death, especially for businesses that<br />

were on life support, the pundits predicted.<br />

As of May 2020 only a few months into the<br />

pandemic, store closures and bankruptcies<br />

catalysed. Household names and<br />

department stores such as J. Crew, Neiman<br />

Marcus, and JCPenney were among the<br />

first major retailers to file for bankruptcy,<br />

although it is arguable that trouble was<br />

already brewing long before COVID.<br />

While an exact figure is almost impossible<br />

to ascertain, it was reported that a further<br />

12,000 retailers had closed stores across<br />

the US in 2020 alone. According to a 2021<br />

UBS Group report, it’s anticipated a further<br />

80,000 US stores are expected to shut<br />

shop in the next five years with onequarter<br />

of US shopping centres also<br />

expected to permanently close.<br />

The US economy is often seen as a<br />

bellwether for what happens here in<br />

Australia. So what does this mean for<br />

the future of retail?<br />

Closer to home, it has been reported<br />

that between 1,000 to 2,000 retail stores<br />

collapsed in 2020 and 2021 following<br />

on from a dismal year of pre-pandemic<br />

trading through 2018-19. Whether or<br />

not this estimate includes small shops<br />

on suburban strips is unknown, but it’s<br />

fair to say that no one was exempt from<br />

feeling the turbulence of the pandemic<br />

rollercoaster.<br />

Two years in, a quick stroll down the street<br />

reveals a string of ‘For Lease’ signs and<br />

storefronts closed until further notice. From<br />

K-mart to Woolies, we’re seeing empty<br />

shelves, a lack of staff and supply chain<br />

turmoil. These problems side-by-side make<br />

it easy to assume that we’re right in the<br />

middle of the, so-called, retail apocalypse.<br />

However, the wise and percipient know<br />

from past experience that economic<br />

instability and the challenges therein can<br />

lead to new opportunities. Instead, these<br />

events can simultaneously expose existing<br />

weaknesses and strengthen the position<br />

of a business.<br />

Indeed, while COVID-19 has accelerated<br />

store closures, it’s also ushered in a wave<br />

of digital revolution for the retail sector.<br />

With consumers now living, thinking<br />

and shopping differently, businesses<br />

have been forced to evolve and further<br />

experiment with what works and what<br />

doesn’t – a playground to freely explore<br />

the opportunities that had been put off.<br />

Certainly, if you were dragging your feet<br />

before 2020, the pandemic dragged you<br />

by the hair into the new world.<br />

KPMG’s 2021 Australian Retail Outlook<br />

Survey indicated that despite a huge shift<br />

towards omni-channel models – where<br />

more than 70 per cent of retailers have<br />

to increase their investment in digital<br />

technology – 25 per cent of respondents<br />

said their websites generate no revenue and<br />

21 per cent said that less than 5 per cent<br />

of their revenue comes from e-commerce.<br />

Fewer than 10 per cent of retailers<br />

indicated that their e-commerce platform<br />

generates up to 50 per cent of revenue.<br />

This is a double-edged sword: while there<br />

has been extraordinary development and<br />

growth in e-commerce, it’s clear that<br />

consumers still prefer to spend more<br />

in-store, which is a welcome revelation<br />

in amidst all the doom and gloom of the<br />

retail apocalypse.<br />

As customers have been forced into<br />

e-commerce, whether they liked it or<br />

not, The Law of Unintended Consequences<br />

came into play: firstly, people came to<br />

You could hear<br />

Chopin’s Funeral<br />

March while<br />

watching the<br />

retail dominoes<br />

collapse –<br />

COVID-19 was<br />

the final kiss of<br />

death, especially<br />

for businesses<br />

that were on<br />

life support,<br />

the pundits<br />

predicted.<br />

realise the importance of a tangible in-store<br />

shopping experience and secondly, with a<br />

surge in delivery fees and delay in delivery<br />

times, the price of items both instore and<br />

online became comparable.<br />

Coupled with this, the Australian Bureau<br />

of Statistics’ most recent turnover estimate<br />

(November 2021) for retail businesses,<br />

which include both physical store and<br />

online sales, is reported to have risen<br />

7.3 per cent month-on-month and<br />

increased 5.8 per cent on 2020. In essence,<br />

people haven’t stopped shopping, and<br />

instead, their consumption has increased.<br />

Moreover, what has come to light since<br />

2020 is to what degree consumers enjoy<br />

shopping for jewellery.<br />

In October 2020 I wrote: “When compared<br />

to other retail categories, there’s ample<br />

evidence that many fine jewellery retailers<br />

have remained resilient during the COVID<br />

pandemic and economic crisis”, which was<br />

backed up by soaring Pandora and Tiffany<br />

stock prices.<br />

“Hong Kong retailer, Chow Tai Fook, had<br />

seen its shares rocket back to its 2018<br />

heydays and both Michael Hill International<br />

and the US chain, Signet Jewelers, were<br />

recovering since the huge sell off in the<br />

depths of the crisis and LVMH stock prices<br />

are back to what they were pre-COVID.”<br />

And now, 15 months further on, Pandora<br />

has recorded all-time high revenue while<br />

Michael Hill reports its best second quarter<br />

in history. Richemont group’s sales have<br />

reportedly exceeded that of pre-COVID and<br />

even local jeweller Linneys reported historic<br />

Christmas trading. Sales are booming!<br />

In this month’s feature – The Great Retail<br />

Reset – we look at the ‘retail apocalypse’<br />

from a different standpoint. Sure, while<br />

the catastrophic effects of the pandemic<br />

cannot be ignored, it has equally been an<br />

opportunity for brave and savvy retailers<br />

to reinvent, redefine and rebirth.<br />

In March 2020, I gave my humble advice<br />

in these difficult times: if you want to<br />

prepare yourself against the horsemen<br />

of the apocalypse, don’t build a bunker –<br />

learn to ride a horse!<br />

It appears that some have gone a step<br />

further and learned to tame a herd.<br />

Angela Han<br />

Publisher<br />

<strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 11


Upfront<br />

#Instagram hashtags to follow<br />

Alpha Order<br />

#argylepinkdiamonds<br />

17,078 POSTS<br />

#diamondlover<br />

184,966+ POSTS<br />

#dresstoimpress<br />

2.5 MILLION POSTS<br />

#engagementinspo<br />

56,407+ POSTS<br />

#fantasyjewelry<br />

82,535+ POSTS<br />

HISTORIC GEMSTONE<br />

Okavango Blue<br />

4The oval cut 20.46-carat Okavango Blue<br />

Diamond was first unearthed in 2018 from<br />

Botswana's Orapa Mine located in the lush<br />

Okavango Delta, and was given a clarity grade<br />

of VVS1 for its near-perfect condition. It was cut<br />

from a 41.11-carat rough diamond and despite<br />

only being a recent discovery, it has quickly risen<br />

ranks as a historic gemstone for its rare colour,<br />

size and clarity.<br />

#garnetring<br />

63,533+ POSTS<br />

#gouache<br />

6,534+ POSTS<br />

#joailleriefrancaise<br />

22,693+ POSTS<br />

#malachitejewelry<br />

41,802+ POSTS<br />

#signetring<br />

178,117+ POSTS<br />

Unlike most diamonds that were created around 160 to<br />

240 kilometres below the surface, the Okavango Blue is said<br />

to have formed for millions of years at the transition zone - around<br />

640 kilometers down - through a geological process called subduction.<br />

Blue diamonds contain borons, and as soon as boron becomes more<br />

abundant than nitrogen, the diamond turns blue. The boron gets pushed<br />

down to the transition zone where it contributes to the blue hue.<br />

Trend Spotting<br />

4From Bella Hadid and Olivia Rodrigo<br />

to Pete Davidson, every trendy celebrity<br />

and their dog seems to be adorned<br />

with strands of kitschy colourful glass<br />

beads with playful motifs featuring<br />

strawberries and mushrooms. Mixed<br />

with sterling silver and freshwater<br />

pearls, alternative jeweller Beepybella<br />

combines psychedelic chic and<br />

childhood nostalgia.<br />

Image credit: Instagram @beepybella<br />

Image credit: Chaumet<br />

Stranger Things<br />

Weird, wacky and wonderful<br />

jewellery news from around the world<br />

Just milking it<br />

4A New Zealand jeweller,<br />

The Spilt Milk Co., is turning<br />

breast milk into jewellery to help<br />

mothers keep memories of their<br />

breastfeeding journey forever.<br />

Mothers mail approximately 10ml<br />

of their breastmilk which is then<br />

preserved by being turned into a<br />

dehydrated powder that is used<br />

to create beads that are worn as<br />

rings, earrings and necklaces.<br />

Some sentimental stories include<br />

mothers who have lost their babies<br />

and want to commemorate them.<br />

Diamonds in orbit<br />

4Dianna Rae High, a jeweller<br />

from Louisiana, is reaching new<br />

heights in a collaboration with<br />

NASA to launch a limited number<br />

of diamond-set jewellery on a<br />

mission to the International Space<br />

Station (ISS). NASA has also<br />

confirmed that the Highs will be<br />

the very first to send diamonds to<br />

the ISS to return and be resold. The<br />

agreement allows for a parcel of<br />

1,000 carats to be sent into orbit.<br />

Digital Brainwave<br />

“Extraterrestrial” giant<br />

Retailers with<br />

an ecommerce<br />

platform need<br />

to prioritise<br />

cybersecurity<br />

measures.<br />

4Cybersecurity experts have alerted omnichannel<br />

retailers to be extra-vigilant in <strong>2022</strong>.<br />

As more retailers have setup ecommerce<br />

platforms to deal with COVID disruptions<br />

and consumers are making more purchases<br />

online, hackers have also increased their<br />

ruthless attacks. With smarter AI and surge<br />

in smart-device usage, it's become easier for<br />

security breaches to occur.<br />

The solution? Don't skimp on your<br />

cybersecurity! Ensure you seek professional<br />

advice on how to secure your network and<br />

trading platforms to avoid any disruptions.<br />

Campaign Watch<br />

4French jeweller Chaumet has<br />

launched a new hexagonal diamond<br />

cut named Taille Impératrice<br />

(Empress), after its oldest client<br />

Impératrice Josephine, Napoleon's<br />

wife. Chaumet has claimed that it's<br />

the only cut to combine 88 facets with<br />

a star-shaped pavilion and boasts a<br />

superior brilliance to the traditional<br />

round brilliant. It is used extensively<br />

throughout the newly released<br />

'Bee My Love' collection.<br />

4A 555.55-carat rare black<br />

diamond named 'The Enigma' cut<br />

with 55-facets will be placed on the<br />

auction block in London by Sotheby’s<br />

next month, which is expected to fetch<br />

around £5 million ($AU9.46 million).<br />

Believed to have extraterrestrial<br />

origins, the shape of the stone is<br />

based on the Middle-Eastern palm<br />

symbol of the Khamsa, which<br />

stands for 'strength and protection'.<br />

Sotheby's will also accept<br />

cryptocurrency as payment.<br />

VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY<br />

Published by Befindan Media Pty Ltd<br />

Locked Bag 26, South Melbourne, VIC 3205 AUSTRALIA | ABN 66 638 077 648 | Phone: +61 3 9696 7200 | Subscriptions & Enquiries: info@jewellermagazine.com<br />

Publisher Angela Han angela.han@jewellermagazine.com • Journalist Richard Chiu editorial@jewellermagazine.com • Production Coordinator Lauren McKinnon art@befindanmedia.com<br />

Advertising Toli Podolak toli.podolak@jewellermagazine.com • Accounts Paul Blewitt finance@befindanmedia.com<br />

Copyright All material appearing in <strong>Jeweller</strong> is subject to copyright. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly forbidden without prior written consent of the publisher. Befindan Media Pty Ltd<br />

strives to report accurately and fairly and it is our policy to correct significant errors of fact and misleading statements in the next available issue. All statements made, although based on information<br />

believed to be reliable and accurate at the time, cannot be guaranteed and no fault or liability can be accepted for error or omission. Any comment relating to subjective opinions should be addressed to<br />

the editor. Advertising The publisher reserves the right to omit or alter any advertisement to comply with Australian law and the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher for all damages or liabilities<br />

arising from the published material.


FP<br />

ADVERTISEMENT


OUR TEAM IS HERE TO SUPPORT YOU:<br />

Toll Free 1800 888 585 | Email customerservice@pwbeck.com.au<br />

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Toll Free 1800 888 585 | Email customerservice@pwbeck.com.au | Web www.pwbeck.com.au


News<br />

Breakthrough with ‘floating diamond’ invention<br />

Australian jeweller celebrates<br />

five stores with gala evening<br />

It took two decades, millions of dollars, and a<br />

box of ruined and ‘exploded’ diamonds for a<br />

Wellington jeweller to finally be a step closer<br />

to a billion-dollar payout and create the<br />

'Floeting Diamond'.<br />

What was previously thought to be an<br />

impossible feat for traditional jewellery design<br />

and manufacturing has become a reality for The<br />

Village Goldsmith founder Ian Douglas, who<br />

announced the launch of the Floeting Diamond<br />

– a diamond-set jewellery collection without<br />

metal clasps or claws.<br />

Secured in place using proprietary tiny laser-cut<br />

grooves around the underside of diamonds,<br />

Floeting Diamond jewellery uses only highquality<br />

stones to achieve the desired strength<br />

and appearance for its collection.<br />

“The original concept came to mind almost<br />

20 years ago, but it’s really only been the<br />

advancement in a lot of technologies, in<br />

metallurgy, in the development of space-age<br />

metals, the science of engineering with lasers,<br />

that have enabled this cut to come about,”<br />

Douglas told Stuff.<br />

Record sales for Pandora Jewelry– "all-time high"<br />

Pandora has reported a “historical” 2021 fourth<br />

quarter (Q4) record performance and exceeded<br />

forecasts for the entire year based on its<br />

preliminary results.<br />

Estimated revenues in Q4 amounted to DKK9<br />

billion ($AU1.91 billion) and the full-year figure<br />

of DKK 23.4 billion ($AU4.96 billion) have been<br />

considered as the “highest ever for Pandora”,<br />

driven by “robust and broad-based growth”<br />

across key markets, especially in the US.<br />

Sales performance remained strong despite the<br />

temporary closure of several physical stores<br />

due to COVID-19 lockdown measures in the last<br />

quarter.<br />

"We are very pleased with the results in 2021,"<br />

Alexander Lacik, chief executive officer, Pandora<br />

It is estimated that the value of diamond<br />

jewellery sales worldwide is $US90 billion<br />

($AU126.6 billion) annually, half of which is<br />

spent in the US. Douglas hopes to get a 2<br />

per cent share of the American pie, which is<br />

around $US1.8 billion ($AU2.5 billion) within<br />

the next five years.<br />

The pursuit for a design that highlights the<br />

optimal visual qualities of a diamond set “was<br />

thought to be an impossible dream,” Douglas<br />

said. "Every jeweller in the world has been<br />

asked by customers if it was possible to have<br />

a ring without the prongs, and until now the<br />

answer has always been, 'No’."<br />

Using precision-cutting laser technology,<br />

Canadian master diamond cutter Mike Botha,<br />

in collaboration with international experts<br />

composed of metallurgists, scientists, laser<br />

engineers, testing laboratories and patent<br />

attorneys, finally developed the patented<br />

diamond jewellery design.<br />

The result – a diamond secured in place<br />

using a precise laser-cut micro-groove at the<br />

CONTINUED ON PAGE 24<br />

said in a statement, noting that the company<br />

"has returned to growth, and we deliver[ed] alltime<br />

high revenue. It is encouraging that we see<br />

broad-based growth."<br />

Full-year preliminary results saw an increase in<br />

organic growth by 23 per cent compared with the<br />

same period in 2020, which exceeded the “lifted”<br />

forecast guidance of 18-20 per cent issued in<br />

November last year.<br />

Earnings before interest and taxes were also<br />

reported at 25 per cent compared with the 24-<br />

24.5 per cent forecast guidance.<br />

The US market posted the highest revenue<br />

contribution in Q4 estimated at DKK2.5 billion<br />

($AU530 million) and full-year sales estimated at<br />

DKK7 billion ($AU1.48 billion).<br />

Simon Curwood, Nigel & Brooke Hunter with Shawn Latrell.<br />

The old adage, when the going gets tough, the tough<br />

get going came to light throughout the past two years.<br />

Not content with riding out the global pandemic,<br />

one independent jeweller expanded his store count<br />

regardless of the difficulties during COVID-19.<br />

Simon Curwood decided that 2021 was the year to<br />

break into the Sydney market by opening his fifth<br />

store. The problem was, he did so in June, a few<br />

weeks before a COVID lockdown.<br />

With four existing stores on the NSW central coast<br />

and Newcastle – Charlestown, Tuggerah, Kotara<br />

and Maitland – Curwood chose Parramatta for his<br />

entrée into the larger Sydney market. He recently<br />

“threw a party” for 130 people, in part to celebrate<br />

the new store but mainly to recognise the efforts of<br />

his staff throughout COVID.<br />

“We believe the people in our business are our<br />

biggest assets so every year for staff retention we<br />

organise an event to show our appreciation for<br />

their hard work and to celebrate their individual<br />

achievements”, he explained.<br />

The event took place at Bennelong Restaurant in<br />

the Sydney Opera House and, along with all of his<br />

staff, the night included; Erin Molan, Dave Hughes,<br />

Ricki-Lee and Bruce ‘Hoppo’ Hopkins.<br />

There were also special guest performances on the<br />

night from ‘popstars’ Jessica Mauboy, Dami Im, and<br />

The Buckleys.<br />

Curwood explained that 2021 was the most difficult<br />

year for staff because of confusion and controversy<br />

surrounding COVID laws.<br />

“Throughout the year there were all sorts of<br />

impossible situations for them [staff] to manage.<br />

So this year I wanted to go ‘all out' and put on an<br />

amazing event for my staff, to thank them for all<br />

their hard work during the covid pandemic. The kind<br />

of thing they’d always remember,” Curwood said.<br />

He explained that staff were being abused by<br />

customers for asking for proof of vaccination status<br />

while simultaneously being abused for not asking<br />

for proof of vaccination status!<br />

CONTINUED ON PAGE 24<br />

MORE BREAKING NEWS<br />

JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM<br />

<strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 15


News<br />

Costco's diamond and jewellery sales<br />

boom; history in the courts<br />

When Costco opened its first Australian store in 2009, few people would<br />

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alone that they would become a major product range.<br />

However, a decade on, the 13-store chain has reported an increase in<br />

Australian revenue from $2.59 billion in 2020 to $2.82 billion in 2021,<br />

while its profit more than doubled from $22.22 million in 2020 to $46.39<br />

million this year. The results are recorded to 31 August each year.<br />

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Patrick Noone managing director Costco Australia told The Australian that<br />

the company had performed strongly throughout the COVID-19 pandemic<br />

and the resulting travel restrictions, and that Costco’s jewellery category<br />

was increasing sales in the face of the company not being considered as a<br />

‘typical’ shopping choice for diamond engagement rings.<br />

“<strong>Jeweller</strong>y has done exceptionally well for us this year, I think people are<br />

at home and getting married, having babies and a lot of diamonds have<br />

been selling,” Noone said in The Australian article titled, Diamonds are<br />

Costco’s best friend as sales in Australia race to $3bn.<br />

“Diamonds did well, we sell gold, and that surprised us a bit as well in<br />

terms of selling well. I think it is mainly we are getting traction with the<br />

quality of the goods, we are seeing $10,000 diamond rings being sold<br />

for weddings, $15,000 earrings and things like that and when people<br />

compare the quality out there in the market place and the savings it has<br />

proven popular," Noone said.<br />

The trend is not restricted to Australia. Strong jewellery sales helped<br />

boost Costco’s internationbal Q4 e-commerce revenue by almost nine<br />

per cent, according to Richard Galanti, chief financial officer.<br />

On 9 December, during an Earnings Call - a conference call between the<br />

management of a public company, analysts, investors, and the media to<br />

discuss the company’s financial results during a given reporting period<br />

– Galanti told participants that jewellery was among Costco’s strongest<br />

departments with a 20 per cent jump in total revenue to US$1.67 billion<br />

for the quarter.<br />

The Motley Fool finance website reported that Galanti said: "We actually<br />

sold a couple of rings in the $100,000 range. In terms of e-commerce<br />

sales in the quarter, ex FX [foreign exchange] increased 13.3 per cent<br />

year-over-year, and that's, of course, on top of an 86 per cent plus<br />

increase a year ago in the first quarter. Stronger department in terms<br />

of year of percentages include jewellery, tyres, and home furnishings.”<br />

Costco is reported to be North America's fourth-largest retailer of fine<br />

jewellery and watches after Signet, Walmart and Tiffany, however; the<br />

company’s jewellery and watch departments have not been without<br />

controversy and legal action.<br />

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News<br />

December sales achieve “stellar performance”<br />

despite a drop in diamond jewellery<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y sales in December maintained a<br />

steady uptrend based on previous forecasts as<br />

overall sales dollars saw an increase by 1.8 per<br />

cent compared with the same period in 2020<br />

despite a decline in diamond jewellery sales,<br />

according to Retail Edge Consultant’s monthend<br />

report.<br />

Diamond precious metal jewellery became<br />

the sole outlier for December sales, which<br />

decreased by 8 per cent, compared with 2020<br />

but still maintained a significant positive twoyear<br />

difference (December 2019) at 38 per cent.<br />

The sale of comparative units declined by 5 per<br />

cent when measured against December 2020,<br />

however, there was a 3.9 per cent increase when<br />

compared with December 2019.<br />

According to Mike Dyer, sales manager, Retail<br />

Edge “As was stated in the November Vibe<br />

[member update], the indicators pointed to<br />

a stellar performance for jewellery retail in<br />

December and that's what happened.”<br />

Nonetheless, “there was good growth across<br />

most of the product categories,” he noted,<br />

explaining that the figures “indicate a strong<br />

consumer focus on buying something of<br />

significance that can be treasured and enjoyed.”<br />

Comparative average sales based on inventory<br />

continued to increase by 8 per cent from $161<br />

to $174 compared with December 2020, while<br />

it significantly went up by 26 per cent from the<br />

December 2019 figure of $138.<br />

Michael Hill International has reported a<br />

record sales performance to 26 December<br />

2021 – quarter two (Q2) of its financial year –<br />

thanks to “strong sales growth in all markets<br />

and channels” as per its second-quarter<br />

trading update.<br />

Overall sales across three countries<br />

- Australia, New Zealand and Canada -<br />

increased by 9.8 per cent compared with the<br />

same period in 2020 and 9.6 per cent based<br />

on a two-year difference when measured<br />

against the 2019 pre-COVID period.<br />

According to Daniel Bracken, CEO and<br />

managing director, Michael Hill International<br />

Limited “This strong performance now marks<br />

our tenth quarter of positive same-store<br />

sales growth since [Q3 2019] and further<br />

demonstrates the success of the continued<br />

transformation of the Michael Hill brand.”<br />

Bracken also noted that “the successful<br />

Sales dollars for colour stone precious metal<br />

jewellery was up by 23 per cent compared<br />

with 2020 and a significant two-year difference<br />

at 34 per cent.<br />

The same trend was seen for non-stone<br />

precious metal jewellery, which increased by 9<br />

per cent compared with December 2020, and a<br />

significant two-year difference at 59 per cent.<br />

Sales of silver and alternative metal jewellery<br />

also increased by 13 per cent when compared<br />

with December 2020 and a much significant rise<br />

at 41 per cent based on a two-year (December<br />

2019) difference.<br />

As expected during the holiday seasons, sales<br />

dollars for laybys saw a decline by 18 per cent<br />

as the pieces are claimed or collected, to be<br />

given as gifts.<br />

Similarly, revenue for services declined by 43.9<br />

per cent and special orders also followed suit by<br />

dropping at 21.4 per cent.<br />

“Now would be a great time to review your items<br />

that were short delivered (or back-ordered) prior<br />

to Christmas to make sure that you don't receive<br />

multiples of items that you may not require now<br />

that Christmas has passed,” he added.<br />

Retail Edge’s data is gathered from its POS<br />

software across more than 400 Australian<br />

independent retail jewellery stores. It is intended<br />

to present a representative sample of the wider<br />

jewellery industry.<br />

Michael Hill reports “best Q2” in its history<br />

planning and execution of Christmas<br />

underpinned this outstanding result” which<br />

included the company’s aggressive marketing<br />

campaigns, digital initiatives, supply chain and<br />

inventory management and holiday recruitment<br />

strategy “all came together to deliver Michael<br />

Hill’s best Q2 in the company’s history.”<br />

This year’s first-half earnings before interest<br />

and taxes are forecast to achieve between $49<br />

million to $53 million when compared with $44.6<br />

million for the first half of 2021.<br />

E-commerce channels also saw an increase<br />

in sales by 28 per cent. Digital sales year-todate<br />

represented 8.2 per cent of total sales<br />

compared with the 2021 full-year percentage<br />

of 6.3 per cent.<br />

Australian same-store sales increased by 5.2<br />

per cent and all-store sales were up by 2.2<br />

per cent. By the end of December 2021, all<br />

Australian stores (150) were trading.<br />

News In Brief<br />

Vikings, gold jewellery and<br />

legendary travels<br />

4 The unexpected discovery of an 11thcentury<br />

gold earring buried in Denmark<br />

could help shed light on whether the<br />

Vikings acquired intricate jewellery<br />

during their legendary journeys. The<br />

earring was one of a very few ancient<br />

jewellery pieces of the same and this is<br />

the first piece found in Scandinavia.<br />

New Hallmarking laws offer<br />

exemptions for gold jewellery<br />

4 The Indian government has issued<br />

guidelines on hallmarking exemptions<br />

for gold jewellery and artefacts, in<br />

response to protests from industry<br />

leaders on easing gold jewellery export<br />

and trade practices. India is one of<br />

the largest diamond and jewellery<br />

manufacturing and exporting nations<br />

in the world, estimated to be around<br />

$US40 billion.<br />

Gold jewellery and<br />

Egypt’s Queen Nefertiti<br />

4 Ancient gold jewellery and precious<br />

stones dating back to 1350 BC were<br />

unearthed alongside human skeletal<br />

remains from Bronze Age burial<br />

chambers in Cyprus. The artefacts<br />

resemble those worn by Egypt’s famed<br />

Queen Nefertiti and were discovered in<br />

a burial site for the ruling class in the<br />

ancient city of Hala Sultan Tekke.<br />

Australian diamond mine<br />

expected to be the biggest<br />

4 The Merlin Diamond Mine is<br />

expected to be the biggest commercial<br />

diamond mining operation in Australia<br />

with a targeted yield of 153,000 carats<br />

per year when it begins full-scale<br />

production in 2024. It aims to produce<br />

2.1 million carats throughout the<br />

expected 14-year ‘lifespan’.<br />

MORE BREAKING NEWS<br />

JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM<br />

<strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 17


News<br />

Harry Winston stops sourcing Myanmar gemstones amid human-rights accusation<br />

The Global Witness report alleges that Myanmar’s current<br />

military leaders are taking advantage and control of what the<br />

organisation called “conflict rubies” to “tighten its grip on<br />

power and bankroll atrocities.”<br />

The jeweller made the announcement days<br />

before international non-profit watchdog Global<br />

Witness published a report regarding political<br />

and human rights abuses in the Southeast Asian<br />

nation known as a leading supplier for premiumquality<br />

gemstones.<br />

According to the report, of the 30 international<br />

brands contacted by Global Witness only Tiffany<br />

& Co, Boodles, and Signet <strong>Jeweller</strong>s aside from<br />

Harry Winston, have also declared to stop sourcing<br />

gemstones from Myanmar.<br />

“In its ongoing commitment to responsible and<br />

ethical sourcing, the House of Harry Winston will<br />

no longer source gemstones from its suppliers<br />

that have Burmese origins, regardless of the<br />

importation dates,” the company posted on Twitter.<br />

The company also noted it takes “very seriously”<br />

how it sources its diamonds and gemstones.<br />

“We perform our due diligence prior to<br />

purchasing to ensure the gemstones used in the<br />

manufacturing of our jewellery collections are<br />

obtained responsibly, ethically, and in accordance<br />

with all applicable laws and regulations,” the<br />

statement also pointed out.<br />

A military coup in <strong>February</strong> seized control of<br />

Myanmar that triggered an embargo on key<br />

gemstone companies by the US.<br />

The Global Witness report alleges that<br />

Myanmar’s current military leaders are taking<br />

advantage and control of what the organisation<br />

called “conflict rubies” to “tighten its grip on<br />

power and bankroll atrocities.”<br />

“There is no such thing as an ethically sourced<br />

Burmese ruby.<br />

"These gemstones are sold as symbols of<br />

human connection and affection, yet the supply<br />

chain is steeped in corruption and horrific<br />

human rights abuses,” Clare Hammond, Senior<br />

Myanmar Campaigner at Global Witness, said.<br />

Among the other well-known luxury brands<br />

implicated in the investigation were Graff, Bulgari,<br />

Van Cleef & Arpels, and Sotheby’s.<br />

A conservative analysis of the value of the coloured<br />

gemstone industry in Myanmar is estimated to<br />

be between $US346 million ($AU478.5 million) to<br />

$US415 million ($AU574 million) based on official<br />

production data.


News<br />

Linneys reports “historic” trading<br />

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company amid COVID challenges which turned out to be a<br />

“silver lining” of sorts.<br />

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According to Justin Linney, creative director, Christmas trading saw<br />

an increase by 15 per cent fuelled by a rising Western Australian<br />

economy and COVID-related overseas travel restrictions which yielded<br />

an unexpected outcome where consumers invested in jewellery and<br />

luxury goods. The strong holiday trading performance is seen to<br />

increase the company’s annual turnover by 30 per cent in 2021-<strong>2022</strong>.<br />

Linney said “Western Australians can’t travel so they are investing<br />

in jewellery instead,” noting that stores were “extremely busy” at the<br />

start of the holidays as “customers are settling their accounts for<br />

presents in the last few days before Christmas.”<br />

Pink diamonds were in high demand “as they are very limited in<br />

supply, and clients don’t want to miss the boat,” Linney said, adding<br />

that consumers are still looking for “classic pieces, diamond pendants<br />

or stud earrings, [and] pearls are being featured on the fashion<br />

runway, so they are also in high demand.”<br />

Established in 1972, family-owned Linneys was among the Australian<br />

‘pioneers’ to showcase Argyle pink diamonds in its original jewellery<br />

collections since 1985.<br />

Rent assistance scheme helps jewellers<br />

A recent decision by the Victoria Government to approve a two-month<br />

extension of the Commercial Tenancy Relief Scheme (CTRS) will<br />

benefit jewellery retailers who may be struggling with the recent rise<br />

of COVID cases.<br />

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The scheme, which was extended until 15 March and takes effect on<br />

16 January, is available to businesses with a maximum annual turnover<br />

of $10 million and have experienced at least a 30 per cent decline in<br />

turnover due to COVID-related causes.<br />

Along with the CTRS extension, the suspension on rent increases will<br />

remain in effect, as well as the mandated moratorium on evictions.<br />

Under the program, landlords and tenants are required to mutually<br />

abide by the conditions stated in their respective agreements.<br />

Landlords are directed to provide proportional rent relief to tenants, such<br />

as businesses with a pre-pandemic turnover of 40 per cent could only be<br />

billed 40 per cent of its rent rate. With the remaining 60 per cent, at least<br />

half of the rent balance is waived and the remainder is to be deferred.<br />

Throughout the scheme, the Victorian Small Business Commission will<br />

provide mediation support to landlords and tenants in cases where no<br />

mutual agreement is reached. Landlords will also be unable to evict or<br />

lockout tenants without seeking mediation from the commission.<br />

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News<br />

Tiffany & Co. problems continue:<br />

French-US rivalry causes confusion<br />

When French luxury conglomerate Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH)<br />

acquired Tiffany & Co. in January, LVMH management immediately<br />

signalled that big changes were afoot, whether customers liked them<br />

or not. Tiffany wasn’t just getting a takeover, but a makeover. However,<br />

not everything has gone according to plan.<br />

Barely two months into the acquisition, Tiffany & Co. cancelled its New York<br />

Times print-edition advertisement, which had run on page 3 since 1896.<br />

The re-branding continued with a controversial billboard campaign<br />

bearing the slogan, ‘Not your mother’s Tiffany’. The intention was clear<br />

– positioning Tiffany as a youthful, on-trend, and unpretentious brand,<br />

accessible to Gen Z<br />

According to a report in the Wall Street Journal (WSJ), “It seemed like a<br />

perfect union when LVMH acquired Tiffany & Co. and the two companies<br />

agreed to the takeover in late 2019. The combination combined a wellknown<br />

but faded jeweller with a deep-pocketed French conglomerate,<br />

betting its future on expansion into China and Europe.”<br />

However, Pauline Brown, who was chairman of LVMH North America<br />

from 2013 through 2015, believes Tiffany’s new management is<br />

underestimating the cultural challenges.<br />

“The senior-most decision makers in Tiffany’s C-Suite are not<br />

American,” she told the WSJ.<br />

Brown, who is now a Columbia Business School professor added: “They<br />

assume that because they speak fluent English and, in some cases,<br />

have worked in America, that they understand the American mindset.<br />

"But they are trying to impose a strategy that won’t necessarily gel for<br />

the brand’s core customers or employees".<br />

The article goes on to say that the French takeover of Tiffany & Co.<br />

started with insults, lawsuits and accusations of mismanagement.<br />

Then things got really uncomfortable.<br />

Soon after LVMH closed its $US15.8 billion acquisition of the American<br />

jewellery retailer in January 2021, it replaced several of Tiffany’s senior<br />

leaders with executives from other parts of the LVMH empire.<br />

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According to the WSJ report, in April a group of Tiffany staffers<br />

circulated an unsanctioned memo offering tips on “Franco-American<br />

cultural nuances and etiquette.” It advised against discussing weekend<br />

plans while waiting for a meeting to start.<br />

“French people share more negative feedback,” it warned. “Expect<br />

less warm and fuzzy: ‘amazing’, ‘fabulous’ and excessively positive<br />

comments are not the norm.”<br />

Tiffany’s new chief executive, Anthony Ledru, denounced it after<br />

it circulated, disputing the notion that people had to assimilate to<br />

succeed at their jobs. He told his team “we are not aligned with this,”<br />

Mr. Ledru said in an interview at his Manhattan office.<br />

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News<br />

Nationwide <strong>Jeweller</strong>s annual conference heads to Brisbane in May<br />

Nationwide <strong>Jeweller</strong>s has announced that more<br />

than 200 members will attend its ‘Time Out’<br />

conference free of charge, thanks to the group’s<br />

member rewards program - saving $1,800 each.<br />

Additionally, member-participants will each be<br />

provided ‘Conference Cash’ valued at $30,000<br />

to $60,000, which can be used with exhibitors at<br />

zero-interest for a 6-month term, according to<br />

organisers.<br />

The conference will be held at the W Hotel in<br />

Brisbane from 13 to 16 May <strong>2022</strong>, and will be centred<br />

around the theme: ‘Time Out – Time to Shine'.<br />

“We anticipate that we will exceed our usual<br />

attendance level, which typically ranges between<br />

180 to 200 members representing 100 stores,”<br />

Erin Keller, membership manager, Nationwide<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>s said.<br />

“Our initial conference program was sent to<br />

members last week, and the first member<br />

registrations were received within an hour.”<br />

The $1,800 reward benefit for qualified members<br />

“includes accommodation, meals, functions,<br />

seminars and workshops” and organisers are<br />

expecting a high turn-out given next year’s<br />

conference will be the first time in nearly three<br />

years since the pandemic restricted public<br />

gatherings and events.<br />

The conference also marks Nationwide’s 30th year<br />

- which was originally planned for celebration last<br />

year but was cancelled due to pandemic restrictions<br />

- and recognise members who have been with the<br />

group for the past 30 years.<br />

“Our 30-year members are amongst some of the<br />

most successful jewellery stores in the industry,”<br />

Glen Pocklington, general manager, Nationwide said.<br />

“These members have been regular attendees at<br />

our annual conference, and it is often here that<br />

they have made new connections, discovered<br />

fresh products and learnt business strategies<br />

to keep them inspired and motivated.”<br />

Enhanced jewellery course<br />

Meanwhile, the group has announced it has<br />

streamlined its Retail <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Business<br />

Management Course to allow more members<br />

to take advantage of the free training program.<br />

Several one-day training modules have been<br />

converted to webinars and course durations<br />

were reduced to half a day, which will be made<br />

available via Nationwide’s 24/7 online resource<br />

library.<br />

The online modules include Human Resources,<br />

Visual Merchandising and Understanding<br />

Financial Reports.<br />

“This has enabled us to reduce the course<br />

duration from one day to half a day, making it<br />

easier for more members to be able to attend,”<br />

Colin Pocklington, managing director, Nationwide<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>s said.<br />

Several one-day training modules have been<br />

converted to webinars and course durations<br />

were reduced to half a day, which will be made<br />

available via Nationwide’s 24/7 online resource<br />

library.<br />

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News<br />

High profile jeweller sues 'copycat' over IP infringement<br />

New York-based jewellery designer David<br />

Yurman has filed a lawsuit against venture<br />

capital-backed rival Mejuri for copying several<br />

distinctive jewellery designs that bore striking<br />

similarities with Yurman’s Pure Form and<br />

Sculpted Cable collections.<br />

The complaint was filed in the New York Southern<br />

District federal court for infringement based on<br />

dilution of Yurman trade dress and violations of the<br />

state’s business law.<br />

Trade dress is a type of US trademark law that<br />

extends to the configuration (design and shape)<br />

of a product itself. If the overall image serves to<br />

distinguish the source of a product, or service from<br />

those of its competitors, one or more elements<br />

that make up the trade dress may satisfy the<br />

requirements for registration as a trademark.<br />

David Yurman sought an injunction against Mejuri<br />

for manufacturing products that “infringe” on the<br />

specified designs and demand the finished pieces<br />

be “melted down.” The company is also seeking<br />

redress for unspecified damages.<br />

Established in 1980, David Yurman operates<br />

33 US and 11 international stores.<br />

Mejuri is based in Toronto, Canada was founded<br />

in 2015 by Noura Sakkijha and focuses on<br />

millennial women looking to ‘self-purchase’<br />

affordable jewellery.<br />

In 2019, venture capital firm New Enterprise<br />

Associates invested in the $US23 million Series<br />

B round for Mejuri, a startup capturing millennial<br />

women’s penchant for affordable and treat yo’ self<br />

type of jewelry rather than diamonds and precious<br />

stones for special occasions.<br />

A statement from David Yurman alleged that in<br />

2016 the company spent more than $US1.5 million<br />

($AU2.06 million) in marketing its Pure Form<br />

collection, while it spent more than $US5 million<br />

($AU6.88 million) in 2003 to promote the Sculpted<br />

Cable collection. To date, combined sales for both<br />

jewellery collections have exceeded $US235 million<br />

($AU323 million).<br />

In a statement, the company claimed Mejuri copied<br />

the designs and “caused customer confusion and<br />

damage the substantial goodwill that David Yurman<br />

has diligently built over four decades,” charging that<br />

the action makes Mejuri a “serial copycat.”<br />

“We celebrate the creativity of our peers in the<br />

industry who design their own jewellery, and we<br />

welcome competition from new and established<br />

designers alike,” Evan Yurman, president of David<br />

Yurman, said in a statement .<br />

“But we believe that competition should be<br />

fair, and unlawful copying is not good for the<br />

industry or its consumers, nor is it fair to our<br />

hardworking employees.”<br />

In an interview with JCK, a Mejuri spokesperson<br />

said the allegations “are categorically false and are<br />

fundamentally at odds with what we stand for and<br />

who we are as a brand.”<br />

“We look forward to demonstrating that [Yurman’s]<br />

accusations are entirely without merit and believe<br />

that there is enough space in our industry for<br />

artists and jewellery designers to coexist and thrive<br />

together without baseless attacks on one another,”<br />

the spokesperson added.


News<br />

Emerald-cut diamond ring sets new<br />

Australian auction record<br />

Auction house Leonard Joel claims to have set yet another Australian price<br />

record for a diamond ring.<br />

The record-breaking sale of a 20.05-carat diamond ring for $1.625 million,<br />

including buyer’s premium (IBP) edged out a 25.02-carat ring also sold by<br />

Leonard Joel in April 2021 for $1.25 million.<br />

The company celebrated 40<br />

years of jewellery in 2021 and<br />

capped off this celebration with<br />

the record-breaking sale of the<br />

magnificent solitaire diamond<br />

ring on 7 December 2021 during<br />

the final auction of the year.<br />

The record-breaking VVS2<br />

diamond was shown in<br />

Melbourne and Sydney. The<br />

emerald-cut stone is claw-set<br />

above a gallery pavé-set with<br />

brilliant-cut diamonds, flanked<br />

Record breaking VVS2 20.05-carat emerald-cut<br />

by trapezoid diamonds, mounted diamond ring sells for $1,625,000 at Leonard Joel.<br />

in platinum.<br />

It was sold to a local buyer and is said had fallen in love with the piece at the<br />

earlier viewing.<br />

Following these two stones is a 9.67-carat diamond and Argyle fancy pink<br />

diamond ring that sold for $725,000 IBP and a 17.34-carat diamond ring<br />

that sold for $575,000 IBP. It concludes 2021 with jewellery sales totaling of<br />

$9,787,750.<br />

32.32-carat pink diamond fetches $19m<br />

Multinational company Diacore has acquired an exceptional 32.32-carat<br />

pink rough diamond discovered at the Williamson mine in Tanzania for<br />

$US13.8 million ($AU19.06 million). The rough was part of the 26,000 carats<br />

from the mine’s first tender that was offered in Antwerp in November.<br />

According to Nir Livnat,<br />

chairman, Diacore, "This rare<br />

masterpiece of nature is a<br />

natural fit to our unique offering<br />

as cutters and marketeers of<br />

special diamonds."<br />

The stone was purchased from<br />

Petra Diamonds which operates<br />

the Williamson mine. It closed<br />

in April last year in compliance<br />

with COVID-19 lockdown<br />

guidelines, with operations<br />

expected to resume during the<br />

first quarter of <strong>2022</strong>.<br />

The rare pink rough will be analysed and cut by<br />

the company's highly experienced team to bring<br />

out the beauty and best yield.<br />

Diacore has been specialising<br />

in rare colour diamonds and is<br />

known for purchasing some of the rarest stones, such as the 204.36-carat<br />

fancy intense yellow diamond called the Dancing Sun, early this year,<br />

which was reputed to be the largest polished diamond unearthed in North<br />

America.<br />

Among the other notable purchases of the company were the 203.04-carat<br />

De Beers Millennium Star and the 59.6-carat flawless Pink Star diamond.


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CONTINUED FROM PAGE 15<br />

underside of the stone and does not impede light<br />

return or brilliance.<br />

The diamond is set on a high-tensile titanium<br />

alloy collet, which was found to be stronger than<br />

traditional settings based on independent tests.<br />

“Extensive independent testing against the<br />

ISO standard mimicked the scenario of a ring<br />

dropping repeatedly onto a hard wooden surface<br />

from one meter high,” Douglas said.<br />

“In a traditional setting, the diamond came loose<br />

after 298 drops, while the Floeting Diamond<br />

remained secure in its setting after several<br />

thousand drops.”<br />

Floeting Diamond pieces can hold stones between<br />

.20 to 100 carats and, in the future, may be developed<br />

for pear or oval gem shapes, as well as include<br />

sapphires and rubies.<br />

For the first time since 1886 when the standard sixclaw<br />

diamond setting technique was invented, the<br />

Floeting Diamond becomes a historical innovation<br />

for the international diamond jewellery industry.<br />

Douglas invested millions of dollars in the<br />

development of the ground-breaking technique and<br />

several test diamonds were destroyed throughout<br />

the process.<br />

“Secured in place using proprietary tiny laser-cut<br />

grooves around the underside of diamonds, Floeting<br />

Diamond jewellery uses only high-quality stones<br />

Australian jeweller celebrates five stores<br />

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 15<br />

“The pandemic was the hardest situation for staff<br />

to manage. In some cases we had police officers<br />

coming into the store giving staff a hard time about<br />

vaccination and check-in management, then other<br />

police would come in saying they don’t really care,<br />

they just wanted it to be over too!<br />

“So I wanted to celebrate their sacrifices and<br />

everything they have done throughout a difficult<br />

year and, at the same time, have a belated<br />

celebration of our first Sydney store given that not<br />

long after it opened NSW went into lockdown,”<br />

Curwood explained.<br />

The first Simon Curwood <strong>Jeweller</strong>s store opened<br />

in 2016 at Charlestown, south of Newcastle, NSW.<br />

Curwood has been in the jewellery industry since a<br />

young boy.<br />

He worked on the bench for his father Christopher<br />

Curwood, who operated McCallum Gold in<br />

Ballarat, Victoria - one of Australia’s leading<br />

jewellery manufacturers – in the late 1970s and<br />

early 80s. The younger Curwood worked for the<br />

family business until he was 19 and left to join<br />

Harvey Norman, learning the art of successful<br />

to achieve the desired strength and appearance<br />

for its collection.”<br />

“We contacted one of the world’s leading diamond<br />

cutting companies based out of Israel and had an<br />

agreement with them to prototype and test this<br />

concept, and they absolutely ruined it. I paid for<br />

this batch of diamonds that just got butchered,”<br />

Douglas said.<br />

The journey was never easy, according to Douglas,<br />

who noted there were “heartbreaking” moments<br />

during the development stage when he was faced<br />

with a “massive bill”, especially when he was handed<br />

a “little box of cut and polished diamonds with the<br />

groove done completely incorrectly that had ruined<br />

their optical properties. So that got parked in the<br />

vault for a few years.”<br />

“It’s just been horrific. Ten years, trips around the<br />

world to everywhere you can imagine, talking to<br />

all sorts of people, these institutes, the testing<br />

costs, material itself,” he explained.<br />

“You can imagine having to test diamonds and<br />

things going wrong, we have literally blown<br />

diamonds apart.”<br />

After 20 years of rigorous testing, the Floeting<br />

Diamond became a reality and uses a speciallyengineered<br />

titanium alloy which was found to be<br />

20 times more impact tolerant and 10 times more<br />

durable than traditional diamond settings.<br />

Douglas said they are currently under scrutiny by<br />

industry rivals and added, “I think there’s probably a<br />

lot of people hoping that we’ll fail, but if we succeed<br />

they’ll be jumping on the bandwagon big time.”<br />

retailing for five years.<br />

“I missed the jewellery industry too much so I<br />

came back and worked for Michael Hill <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />

for four years. But I always wanted to start my own<br />

business because I have always been passionate<br />

about high-quality jewellery made by independent<br />

craftspeople.<br />

“I set out with the aim of being an independent<br />

chain store – a business that sits between a single<br />

store quality jeweller and a large jewellery chain<br />

– bringing better quality jewellery to the mass<br />

market,” Curwood said.<br />

He believes he has had a good grounding<br />

to achieve his aim given that he learned the<br />

intricacies of fine jewellery production from his<br />

father from the age six.<br />

“I have been passionate about that and felt there was<br />

a niche for a multi-store retailer that focuses on highquality<br />

jewellery. More than 80 per cent of our entire<br />

business is custom-made jewellery,” he said.<br />

The 34-year old Curwood now employs around<br />

60 people and told <strong>Jeweller</strong> that he plans to open<br />

two new stores in <strong>2022</strong>, “when the right locations<br />

become available”, one in Melbourne and one in<br />

Brisbane.


News<br />

Majority of engagement ring buyers shun online websites: study finds<br />

Despite the growth of specialist diamond jewellery<br />

websites, and the general increase in online<br />

shopping over the past two years, a new study has<br />

found 67 per cent of people who decided to marry<br />

purchased their engagement ring in-store, from a<br />

jewellery retailer.<br />

In addition, the 2021 Jewelry and Engagement<br />

Study – conducted by US-based digital wedding<br />

resource The Knot – found that about 50 per cent<br />

of the sales took place at local jewellers after the<br />

proposer visited 2-3 jewellery stores before making<br />

a purchase.<br />

The study concluded that engagement ring<br />

shoppers favoured visiting a jewellery store: “While<br />

online channels, such as social media and jewelry<br />

websites, continue to be the leading resource for<br />

ring research and inspiration, proposers value the<br />

importance of in-store shopping.”<br />

Diamonds are still the most preferred engagement<br />

stone, with moissanite catching up as a popular<br />

alternative and yellow gold making a comeback.<br />

"We're thrilled to see that proposals are returning<br />

to pre-pandemic behaviours. The majority of<br />

couples are already booking their weddings for<br />

<strong>2022</strong>, as the wedding boom is upon us,” Shelley<br />

Brown, senior fashion editor, The Knot said. She<br />

noted there has been a “renewed excitement” on<br />

proposals and the market has shown increased<br />

interest in custom engagement rings.<br />

According to Brown, “Oval diamonds, yellow<br />

gold settings and alternative centre stones like<br />

moissanite and sapphire are all gaining popularity,<br />

speaking to couples' increasing desire to invest in<br />

wedding traditions that represent their specific love<br />

story and personal taste.”<br />

The study revealed that 93 per cent of respondents<br />

exchanged engagement rings of which 83 per<br />

cent were diamond-set with an average size of 1.5<br />

carats, while one in four ring designs were more<br />

than 2 carats.<br />

Shape and setting were considered important<br />

features with round cut diamonds as the most<br />

popular at 41 percent, while oval cut diamonds<br />

have also seen an increase by 2 per cent in 2015<br />

to 19 per cent this year. However, ring size has<br />

become less important among respondents,<br />

according to the study.<br />

Of the 10 per cent of study respondents who<br />

chose non-diamond rings, 28 per cent preferred<br />

moissanite, which was also the most popular<br />

choice among Gen Z respondents (35 per cent).<br />

Sustainability awareness also became an<br />

emerging trend, where nearly one in four<br />

engagement rings were synthetic or lab-created<br />

stones, which indicated an increase by 11 per cent<br />

on the two-year difference when compared to the<br />

same study in 2019.<br />

Meanwhile, yellow gold engagement rings<br />

have become increasingly popular among<br />

study respondents while demand for white gold<br />

engagement rings has declined in recent years.<br />

From 61 percent in 2017, the demand for white<br />

gold decreased by 45 per cent this year.<br />

Overall, average spending on engagement rings<br />

for 2021 slightly increased to $US6,000 ($AU8,387)<br />

compared with 2019 pre-pandemic spending of<br />

$US5,900 ($AU8,247).<br />

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WORLD RANKINGS OF JEWELLERY<br />

INDUSTRY PUBLICATIONS<br />

As at 31 December 2021 <strong>Jeweller</strong> was ranked 54,878, in the world,<br />

well ahead of other jewellery industry titles in more populous<br />

countries. For example, the US magazines JCK, National Jeweler,<br />

and Instore ranked 82,055, 134,498, and 238,570 respectively, even<br />

though the population of the US is much larger than Australia.<br />

POSITION PUBLICATION COUNTRY<br />

WORLD<br />

RANKING<br />

1 <strong>Jeweller</strong> Australia 54,878<br />

2 JCK USA 82,055<br />

3 National Jeweler USA 134,498<br />

4 Instore Magazine USA 238,570<br />

5 Diamond World India 256,670<br />

6 Retail <strong>Jeweller</strong> India 269,464<br />

7 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Net Asia Hong Kong 307,988<br />

8 Professional <strong>Jeweller</strong> UK 580,385<br />

9 The Jewelry Magazine India 613,901<br />

10 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Outlook UK 692,146<br />

11 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Business Canada 745,214<br />

12 Art of <strong>Jeweller</strong>y India 769,354<br />

Leaders and numbers<br />

have one thing in common...<br />

13 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y World Australia 1,087,006<br />

14 Solitaire Magazine Singapore 1,142,751<br />

15 Indian <strong>Jeweller</strong> India 1,203,543<br />

16 Retail <strong>Jeweller</strong> Magazine UK 1,305,323<br />

17 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Focus UK 1,846,557<br />

18 Preziosa Magazine Italy 2,198,671<br />

19 The New <strong>Jeweller</strong> UAE / India 2,745,417<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong> has been the leading voice of the Australian and New Zealand jewellery<br />

industries for 25 years, and today we rank #1 in the world.<br />

Alexa, the independent global ranking system for measuring website traffic and<br />

readership, now ranks jewellermagazine.com as the most widely read industry<br />

publication in the world – by far!<br />

Better still, the daily time spent on jewellermagazine.com averages 29 minutes, which<br />

far exceeds all other international publications, which average only 2–3 minutes per<br />

visitor. Moreover, our page views is miles ahead of all other industry publications.<br />

Moreover, <strong>Jeweller</strong>’s social media presence dominates and our eMags boast more<br />

than 12.3 million reads.<br />

The numbers speak for themselves - follow the leader, and follow the readers too!<br />

20 Canadian <strong>Jeweller</strong> Canada 3,726,881<br />

21 The Retail Jeweler USA 4,158,087<br />

22 Gold Book Magazine Turkey 4,942,352<br />

23 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Monthly UK 5,386,955<br />

24 <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Network South Africa 6,005,766<br />

25 Bangkok Gems & <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Thailand NO DATA<br />

26 Hong Kong <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Magazine Hong Kong NO DATA<br />

27 Jewel Trendz India NO DATA<br />

28 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Time New Zealand NO DATA<br />

29 Solitaire International Singapore NO DATA<br />

POSITION<br />

TRADING PLATFORM /<br />

PUBLICATION<br />

COUNTRY<br />

WORLD<br />

RANKING<br />

1 Rapaport Magazine* USA 48,447<br />

2 Idex* Israel 84,120<br />

VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY<br />

Denotes titles connected to diamond trading platforms / publication


NUMBER OF PAGES VIEWED BY READERS<br />

TIME SPENT ON JEWELLERY WEBSITES<br />

BOUNCE RATE / PAGE 'STICKINESS’<br />

Page Views is the number of times a reader visits any page<br />

on a website. A higher Page View figure the better, because it<br />

means readers are more engaged in the content. <strong>Jeweller</strong>’s<br />

Page View count of 22 leads all websites while most others<br />

can only record a single Page View before the reader leaves.<br />

Time-on-Page is the average time a reader spends on a page<br />

while Time-On-Site is how long they spend on the site each<br />

day. <strong>Jeweller</strong> leads the world with a Daily Time of 29.6 minutes,<br />

while most other publications only manage 1-2 minutes. The<br />

more time spent on a website, the better the global ranking.<br />

The Bounce Rate measures the percentage of visits that<br />

consist of only a single page view. It indicates the percentage<br />

of readers that land on a website, and immediately leave<br />

(‘bounce off’) meaning a low bounce rate is optimal. Alexa<br />

records <strong>Jeweller</strong>’s Bounce Rate at less than 23 per cent.<br />

POSITION PUBLICATION COUNTRY PAGE VIEWS<br />

POSITION PUBLICATION COUNTRY<br />

DAILY TIME<br />

(IN MINUTES)<br />

POSITION PUBLICATION COUNTRY<br />

BOUNCE<br />

RATE<br />

1 <strong>Jeweller</strong> Australia 22.00<br />

2 Retail <strong>Jeweller</strong> India 9.00<br />

3 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Net Asia Hong Kong 3.60<br />

4 The Jewelry Magazine India 2.10<br />

5 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Business Canada 2.00<br />

6 Diamond World India 2.00<br />

7 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Focus UK 2.00<br />

8 Retail <strong>Jeweller</strong> Magazine UK 2.00<br />

9 Indian <strong>Jeweller</strong> India 2.00<br />

10 The New <strong>Jeweller</strong> UAE / India 2.00<br />

11 Canadian <strong>Jeweller</strong> Canada 2.00<br />

12 The Retail Jeweler USA 2.00<br />

13 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Outlook UK 1.80<br />

14 Instore Magazine USA 1.80<br />

15 National Jeweler USA 1.70<br />

16 JCK USA 1.70<br />

17 Professional <strong>Jeweller</strong> UK 1.50<br />

18 Art of <strong>Jeweller</strong>y India 1.40<br />

19 Solitaire Magazine Singapore 1.00<br />

20 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y World Australia 1.00<br />

21 Preziosa Magazine Italy 1.00<br />

22 Gold Book Magazine Turkey 1.00<br />

23 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Monthly UK 1.00<br />

24 <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Network South Africa 1.00<br />

25 Bangkok Gems & <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Thailand NO DATA<br />

26 Solitaire International Singapore NO DATA<br />

27 Jewel Trendz India NO DATA<br />

28 Hong Kong <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Magazine Hong Kong NO DATA<br />

29 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Time New Zealand NO DATA<br />

1 <strong>Jeweller</strong> Australia 29:60<br />

2 Retail <strong>Jeweller</strong> India 20:06<br />

3 National Jeweler USA 15:50<br />

4 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Business Canada 02:17<br />

5 Diamond World India 02:15<br />

6 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Outlook UK 02:11<br />

7 JCK USA 01:56<br />

8 Professional <strong>Jeweller</strong> UK 01:55<br />

9 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Focus UK 01:51<br />

10 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Net Asia Hong Kong 01:44<br />

11 The Jewelry Magazine India 01:43<br />

12 Instore Magazine USA 01:42<br />

13 Art of <strong>Jeweller</strong>y India 01:38<br />

14 Retail <strong>Jeweller</strong> Magazine UK 01:11<br />

15 Solitaire Magazine Singapore 01:10<br />

16 Indian <strong>Jeweller</strong> India 00:54<br />

17 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y World Australia 00:30<br />

18 Preziosa Magazine Italy NO DATA<br />

19 The New <strong>Jeweller</strong> UAE / India NO DATA<br />

20 Canadian <strong>Jeweller</strong> Canada NO DATA<br />

21 The Retail Jeweler USA NO DATA<br />

22 Gold Book Magazine Turkey NO DATA<br />

23 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Monthly UK NO DATA<br />

24 <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Network South Africa NO DATA<br />

25 Bangkok Gems & <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Thailand NO DATA<br />

26 Solitaire International Singapore NO DATA<br />

27 Jewel Trendz India NO DATA<br />

28 Hong Kong <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Magazine Hong Kong NO DATA<br />

29 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Time New Zealand NO DATA<br />

1 <strong>Jeweller</strong> Australia 22.80%<br />

2 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Net Asia Hong Kong 33.80%<br />

3 Retail <strong>Jeweller</strong> India 38.70%<br />

4 Professional <strong>Jeweller</strong> UK 50.00%<br />

5 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Outlook UK 52.00%<br />

6 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Business Canada 55.00%<br />

7 Art of <strong>Jeweller</strong>y India 59.10%<br />

8 Indian <strong>Jeweller</strong> India 60.00%<br />

9 Diamond World India 61.50%<br />

10 The Jewelry Magazine India 63.60%<br />

11 Retail <strong>Jeweller</strong> Magazine UK 66.70%<br />

12 National Jeweler USA 68.30%<br />

13 Solitaire Magazine Singapore 70.00%<br />

14 JCK USA 72.70%<br />

15 Instore Magazine USA 73.40%<br />

16 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y World Australia 92.30%<br />

17 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Focus UK NO DATA<br />

18 Preziosa Magazine Italy NO DATA<br />

19 The New <strong>Jeweller</strong> UAE / India NO DATA<br />

20 Canadian <strong>Jeweller</strong> Canada NO DATA<br />

21 The Retail Jeweler USA NO DATA<br />

22 Gold Book Magazine Turkey NO DATA<br />

23 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Monthly UK NO DATA<br />

24 <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Network South Africa NO DATA<br />

25 Bangkok Gems & <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Thailand NO DATA<br />

26 Solitaire International Singapore NO DATA<br />

27 Jewel Trendz India NO DATA<br />

28 Hong Kong <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Magazine Hong Kong NO DATA<br />

29 <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Time New Zealand NO DATA<br />

POSITION<br />

TRADING PLATFORM /<br />

PUBLICATION<br />

COUNTRY<br />

PAGE VIEWS<br />

POSITION<br />

TRADING PLATFORM /<br />

PUBLICATION<br />

COUNTRY<br />

DAILY TIME<br />

(IN MINUTES)<br />

POSITION<br />

TRADING PLATFORM /<br />

PUBLICATION<br />

COUNTRY<br />

BOUNCE<br />

RATE<br />

1 Idex* Israel 3.50<br />

2 Rapaport Magazine* USA 1.70<br />

1 Rapaport Magazine* USA 02:25<br />

2 Idex* Israel 02:19<br />

1 Rapaport Magazine* USA 60.60%<br />

2 Idex* Israel 75.80%<br />

All data collated as at 31 December 2021


A Tribute<br />

Laughter and legacy:<br />

tribute to Peter W Beck<br />

Australia lost a luminary of the jewellery industry<br />

in December when Peter Beck passed away. While<br />

the word ‘legend’ is bandied around all too often<br />

these days, in Peter’s case it is more than fitting.<br />

Born in 1945, he came from humble beginnings as the<br />

son of Lorna and William Beck, and attended Norwood<br />

Boys Technical College – now known as Marryatville<br />

High School – and from an early age he showed a love<br />

of sport, playing Rugby Union as a halfback.<br />

Peter loved fast cars, risky riding adventures on his<br />

motorbike, trips to trade shows and his dogs, however;<br />

the greatest of them all was his wife of 42 years Ann<br />

Beck, who sadly passed away before him in September,<br />

and with whom he started Peter W Beck Pty Ltd.<br />

Like most characters, Peter had many memorable<br />

monikers: Becks, Becky, Pee Bee (PB), and to his<br />

closest mates, “not a golfer's arsehole”.<br />

Before I’d even seen Peter, I heard him. Standing in<br />

Hong Kong’s famous Lan Kwai Fong laneway more<br />

than a decade ago, my eyes turned towards the roaring<br />

belly-laughter echoing from further up the hill.<br />

An industry colleague forewarned me: ‘What you<br />

heard now is Peter Beck. He’s a bit famous.’<br />

Little did I know how famous!<br />

Wherever he went in the world, Peter was a<br />

charismatic Aussie industry icon and he did<br />

Australia proud. His unrestrained laughter would<br />

draw crowds and alert you to his arrival, but his<br />

warmth and integrity is what made you stay.<br />

From the very first greeting to our very last, every<br />

coffee and conversation with Peter was memorable.<br />

Anyone who has spent time with him will have<br />

experienced a ‘laughter hangover’, from his<br />

comments that were laced with equal parts<br />

wisdom and wise-crack!<br />

Peter was generous with his time, and despite a busy<br />

schedule, he’d always be present. He dedicated his life<br />

to building a business within the jewellery industry, for<br />

the jewellery industry.<br />

No one could possibly doubt Peter’s loyalty; he<br />

was fierce in his defence of everything he cared for,<br />

especially his dedication to Australian manufacturing<br />

and serving the needs of the local trade.<br />

Peter had little tolerance for imported jewellery<br />

seeing it as a blight on the local industry. While some<br />

may regard this as ‘old-fashioned’, it further fuelled<br />

his mission. Imports were just another challenge to<br />

overcome, and challenges were what PB enjoyed most.<br />

He was considered in everything he did. He chose<br />

carefully, and bravely, achieving many things in<br />

Australia before his competitors. He never lacked<br />

foresight or passion – traits that mark a true visionary.<br />

Peter fell in love with the jewellery industry while<br />

starting his career at Engelhard Industries in Adelaide.<br />

When it closed in the 1970s, he and his close friend<br />

Don Kearvel split the markets that Engelhard had<br />

covered, with Don focusing on industrial aspects and<br />

Peter on his passion: precious metals.<br />

Peter married Ann in 1979 and one evening<br />

proposed to her a simple plan: “We have $5,000<br />

in the bank. We can either a) buy a block of land<br />

or b) we can start a business”.<br />

We all look back on moments that appeared<br />

unimportant at that point in time, and decades<br />

later consider: “What if?”<br />

More than 40 years later, it’s astounding to consider<br />

what the Australian jewellery industry would be like<br />

today if Ann and Peter had chosen a) to buy a block<br />

of land.<br />

Where would we be today without their service<br />

and commitment? What would our industry look<br />

like if it had not been for Peter’s love of the<br />

Australian jewellery?<br />

It is true to say that ‘legend’ does not adequately<br />

describe PB, given his contribution over the decades.<br />

Indeed, the tributes below demonstrate the profound<br />

effect he had on many people's lives.<br />

Peter, you lived, you laughed and you loved. Your legacy<br />

and passion will continue to be a light unto our feet.<br />

Vale Peter W Beck!<br />

Angela Han<br />

Publisher<br />

28 | <strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


Peter was the ultimate<br />

professional in our<br />

jewellery trade, and<br />

a true icon of our<br />

industry. In addition to<br />

always being the best<br />

dressed in the room, he<br />

always demonstrated<br />

an incredibly positive<br />

attitude in every<br />

situation.<br />

A pioneer, a real<br />

Australian, immersed<br />

in the success of the<br />

industry, fun and just<br />

a good bloke - that was<br />

Peter! His was a true<br />

Australian business<br />

that remained loyal<br />

to manufacturing and<br />

designing in Australia.<br />

Peter was a true friend,<br />

liked and respected<br />

by all in the jewellery<br />

trade. He was proud of<br />

the company he started<br />

and built to be a leader<br />

in his field, and also<br />

rightfully proud that<br />

he manufactured in<br />

Australia. Peter, I will<br />

miss you so much.<br />

Peter was an icon of<br />

our industry – always<br />

professional, positive<br />

and constructive.<br />

He was generous in<br />

his support for industry<br />

events, and for young<br />

people starting out in<br />

the trade.<br />

Peter was a true legend<br />

of the Australian<br />

jewellery industry.<br />

Personally, I always<br />

had a huge amount<br />

of respect for Peter.<br />

His signature laugh<br />

and larger than life<br />

personality will be<br />

deeply missed.<br />

Phil Edwards<br />

Duraflex Group Australia<br />

Gary Fitz-Roy<br />

Expertise Events<br />

Ted Pevy<br />

The <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Centre<br />

Colin Pocklington<br />

Nationwide <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />

Mark McAskill<br />

Mark McAskill <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

Peter was a fine and<br />

trustworthy gentleman,<br />

with the highest of<br />

ethics for business and<br />

people. Most of all I am<br />

proud to say he was<br />

my friend.<br />

Peter was a legend<br />

and always laughed<br />

at himself, and had<br />

that beautiful smile.<br />

We'll all miss him<br />

terribly as will the<br />

jewellery trade.<br />

Conversations with<br />

Peter were interesting,<br />

entertaining and<br />

enjoyable. Then there<br />

was the big smile while<br />

he quietly listened and<br />

nodded. I will miss my<br />

Mustang Mate!<br />

Peter's smile was<br />

infectious, he was the<br />

life of the party and<br />

always filled the room<br />

with his presence.<br />

Combined with his<br />

clever wit and charm,<br />

he was always ready<br />

to assist when asked.<br />

Peter was an<br />

unforgettable<br />

individual, genuine<br />

and encouraging<br />

with a strong<br />

commitment<br />

to the industry.<br />

Bruce R Rosewarne<br />

Heurs <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />

Ross Paterson<br />

Paterson Fine <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

Ken Abbott<br />

Timesupply<br />

Josh Zarb<br />

IJC<br />

Rohan Milne<br />

Rohan <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />

<strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 29


On The Market<br />

1 2 3<br />

4<br />

5<br />

FEBRUARY<br />

Product<br />

Spotlight<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>’s monthly compiled<br />

snapshot of the latest and greatest<br />

products to hit the market.<br />

6 7<br />

8<br />

1 STONES & SILVER Timeless and elegant this set from the Sealife collection is crafted in .925 sterling silver and features a shell motif with delicate freshwater pearls. 2 GERRIM Aptly named ‘The Temptress’<br />

this 9-carat gold ring features a vibrant green amethyst centre stone, marquise chrome diopsides with white diamond accents. 3 PETER W BECK Dainty and stylish, adorned with shimmering diamonds,<br />

these versatile rings can be stacked, mixed and matched with other bands and worn as eternity, wedding, dress, or anniversary rings. 4 COEUR DE LION | Timesupply Perfect as a Valentine’s gift, uniquecut<br />

ruby red crystals are offset by semi-precious gemstones in this beautiful handmade set from Germany. 5 MARK MCASKILL Talon claws grasp a show-stopping blue Ceylon sapphire that is framed by a<br />

double halo of Australian Argyle pink and white diamonds in this statement-making Pink Caviar dress ring. Available in 18-carat white gold. 6 JK FINDINGS 16-inch long gold paperclip chain necklace with a<br />

2-inch extender is made of 14-carat yellow gold, with a bar that can be personalised by stamping or laser engraving. The bar measures 1mm thick with a dimension of 6.4mm by 31.75mm. 7 DESERT ROSE |<br />

Ellendale Diamonds Available in 18-carat white and rose gold, this scintillating double halo pear shaped ring features a 0.16 carat pear shaped Argyle pink diamond, framed by 0.13 carats of 6-7PP Argyle pink<br />

diamonds with a second halo of round brilliant white diamonds. 8 THOMAS SABO | Duraflex Group Rediscover the most iconic designs that formed the Thomas Sabo brand, and revisit glamour, rock and<br />

roll and nostalgia. DGA worked closely with Mr Sabo to exclusively relaunch the best-of-the-best jewellery designs into the Australian market for a limited time only.


S&S<br />

STONES& SILVER<br />

STERLING SILVER JEWELLERY<br />

Ph: +61 3 9587 1215<br />

stonesandsilver.com.au


10 Years Ago<br />

Time Machine: <strong>February</strong> 2012<br />

A snapshot of the industry events making headlines this time 10 years ago in <strong>Jeweller</strong>.<br />

Historic Headlines<br />

4 Consumers rank Pandora #2 for ‘luxury’ jewellery<br />

4 Australia’s $20 million, 12 carat pink diamond<br />

4 Professional gang targeting jewellery stores<br />

4 Roy King distributor now $1.3million in debt<br />

4 Death penalty surrounds opal dealer<br />

STILL RELEVANT 10 YEARS ON<br />

New Year jewellery resolutions<br />

The coming of the New Year is a<br />

perfect time for retailers to review their<br />

marketing strategies. <strong>Jeweller</strong>s should<br />

clear their minds of everything but the<br />

financial data of the business and start by<br />

jotting down where they believe the new<br />

opportunities will be in the year ahead.<br />

READ ALL HEADLINES IN FULL ON<br />

JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM<br />

Pandora drops 100 stores<br />

After a difficult 12 months where it saw weak<br />

international sales, Pandora has announced the<br />

closure of another 100 accounts in Australia and<br />

New Zealand.<br />

There is an element of déjà vu about the start of<br />

the new year for the Australian and New Zealand<br />

jewellery industries following Pandora announcing<br />

it will close around 100 wholesale accounts by the<br />

end of March.<br />

Pandora Australia President Karin Adcock<br />

announced the decision via email and letter to all<br />

Pandora retailers this morning, saying Pandora<br />

was looking to continue to grow its brand and<br />

needed to change its distribution strategy to do so.<br />

Sound familiar? It should, because just short<br />

of 12 months ago Pandora made a similar<br />

announcement, saying it would be closing 100<br />

accounts in an attempt to have greater control<br />

over the retail experience of the customers<br />

buying their product.<br />

Glamorous launch for new<br />

Thomas Sabo jewellery range<br />

A handful of special guests were on hand to<br />

welcome Thomas Sabo’s new jewellery range<br />

to Australia.<br />

Last month local and international stars were<br />

adorned in a variety of different pieces from<br />

the German fashion jeweller’s latest collection,<br />

‘Glam and Soul.’<br />

The Polo Lounge at Sydney’s Oxford Hotel<br />

played host to the likes of David Campbell,<br />

Axle Whitehead and Elizabeth Hurley while<br />

Thomas Sabo’s international representative,<br />

Hanny Freund, made the trip to Sydney to<br />

launch the new collection.<br />

<strong>February</strong> 2012<br />

ON THE COVER Thomas Sabo<br />

Editor’s Desk<br />

412 words for 12 months: "I’d like to<br />

challenge you with 12 words: When was<br />

the last time you did something for the<br />

first time?<br />

I wish I could take credit for it but<br />

it comes from an Emirates airline<br />

television commercial, which had<br />

no voiceover and simply featured an<br />

elderly woman taking a helicopter ride<br />

before that powerful question is posed<br />

on screen and then ends with ‘Keep<br />

discovering’<br />

I have always loved the ad, it’s marketing<br />

at its best, and it shows how a simple<br />

question can shake you to your core."<br />

Soapbox<br />

4 How much are you worth? : “I have<br />

once again found myself back ‘on the<br />

bench’, and immediately I find myself<br />

questioning the norms of the industry.<br />

What is a fair salary after all?<br />

Retailers need to ask themselves;<br />

are they prepared to invest money<br />

in quality bench jewellers by adding<br />

smaller margins to the customer,<br />

thereby allowing bench jewellers to<br />

charge reasonable rates for the skills<br />

and expertise which, in turn, will help<br />

the jewellery trade to grow? "<br />

– Dean Harrison, managing director,<br />

Alchemy Infusion Designs<br />

Millions stolen at global<br />

jewellery shows<br />

Two men were arrested for selling counterfeit<br />

jewellery at a US jewellery show while another<br />

exhibitor was robbed of nearly $US1 million in<br />

inventory.<br />

Federal agents arrested two men and seized<br />

approximately $US1 million (AUD$935,000)<br />

in counterfeit jewellery after receiving an<br />

anonymous tip from Homeland Security<br />

Investigations at the US Gem and Lapidary<br />

Wholesalers Show in Tucson, Arizona last week.<br />

The two men, vendors at the Tucson show,<br />

were charged with selling an estimated<br />

USD$1 million in replicated goods from<br />

companies including Tiffany & Co, Chanel,<br />

Gucci and Hermes.<br />

Ex-Pandora man to launch<br />

‘clicks & mortar’ stores<br />

Jeff Burnes, previously of Pandora <strong>Jeweller</strong>y,<br />

will launch the first of 12 innovative jewellery<br />

stores this May. The new retailing concept<br />

will rely on world leading POS technology.<br />

Pandora <strong>Jeweller</strong>y's former head of<br />

marketing and communications has formed<br />

Status (STA+US), a new concept store stocking<br />

a variety of international jewellery and watch<br />

brands including Guess, Skagen, Armani,<br />

Marc Jacobs, Diesel, and Thomas Sabo.<br />

Burnes identified the need to bridge the<br />

gap between bricks and clicks retailing and<br />

believes the new physical retailing concept<br />

can capitalise on the growing number of online<br />

shoppers and connect the two in a unique,<br />

multi-channel environment.<br />

32 | <strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


Completing my Diploma in<br />

Gemmology has benefited<br />

me as a jeweller in more<br />

ways than I ever expected.<br />

I have always had an interest<br />

in gemstones and found<br />

the course was not only<br />

informative and challenging<br />

but immensely rewarding.<br />

Studying with the GAA has also<br />

allowed me to meet like-minded<br />

people from many facets of the<br />

jewellery industry and grants me access<br />

to resources that I will continue to use<br />

throughout my professional career.<br />

Emma Meakes FGAA<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>, John Miller Design - WA<br />

Diploma in<br />

Gemmology<br />

Enrolments now open<br />

For more information<br />

1300 436 338<br />

learn@gem.org.au<br />

www.gem.org.au<br />

Be<br />

Brilliant<br />

Gem-Ed Australia<br />

ADELAIDE BRISBANE HOBART MELBOURNE PERTH SYDNEY<br />

Passionately educating the industry, gem enthusiasts<br />

and consumers about gemstones


REVIEW<br />

Gems<br />

Part II: Synthetic Diamonds<br />

Above: Swarovski Created Diamonds<br />

With the success of growing gem-quality<br />

diamonds at a reasonable cost, the next<br />

step for the synthetic diamond industry was<br />

to achieve larger sizes, improve quality, and<br />

produce an array of colour options to offer<br />

consumers.<br />

Following production, synthetics are<br />

often assessed to determine treatment<br />

methods that will improve colour and<br />

achieve a higher price.<br />

These treatments are not exclusive to<br />

synthetic stones, low quality natural<br />

diamonds often undergo the same<br />

processes.<br />

The best course of action will depend<br />

on the characteristics of the diamond<br />

to begin with and the desired result.<br />

Though rare, it’s important to note that<br />

clarity enhancement has also been<br />

recorded in synthetic diamonds.<br />

Colour treatments, unlike clarity<br />

enhancement - a cosmetic treatment<br />

altering the appearance of the diamond -<br />

alter a diamond’s atomic lattice.<br />

Given colour is imparted by the defects<br />

present in the lattice, the goal of these<br />

treatments is to add defects, remove<br />

them, or a combination of both.<br />

One of the most common treatments<br />

that Chemical Vapour Deposition (CVD)<br />

synthetic diamonds undergo is High<br />

Pressure High Temperature (HPHT)<br />

treatment. CVDs are usually brownish in<br />

colour and therefore worth less than the<br />

colourless alternative.<br />

This colouring is a result of the much<br />

faster growth times of CVD synthetics<br />

compared to HPHT produced synthetics.<br />

When diamonds grow too quickly,<br />

dislocations happen in the lattice and<br />

these brown tones begin to appear.<br />

This is of no concern to the<br />

manufacturers, because HPHT treatment<br />

can take only minutes to perform.<br />

Growing stones faster then HPHT treating<br />

them to remove the brown will still result<br />

in a nice colourless diamond and is more<br />

cost effective than manufacturing the<br />

diamond at a slower pace.<br />

Altering the colour of CVD synthetics<br />

doesn’t end there – additional or<br />

alternative treatments can produce<br />

blues, pinks, yellows, and more. Again,<br />

the resultant colour will depend on the<br />

atomic structure and any defects present<br />

in the diamond to begin with.<br />

Yellow colouring like the ‘cape’ yellow<br />

colours seen in natural diamonds can<br />

also be produced with HPHT treatment.<br />

In other cases, following HPHT treatment<br />

with irradiation and low-temperature<br />

annealing can produce a range of pink,<br />

orangey-pink, purplish-pink, and even<br />

red hues.<br />

The colours produced can be beautiful<br />

and even similar to the colours of the<br />

rare Golconda-type natural, untreated<br />

pink diamonds.<br />

Post-growth irradiation alone can<br />

result in blue and blue-green hues.<br />

This irradiation treatment creates the<br />

same GR1 (general radiation 1) defect<br />

present in natural green and greenishblue<br />

coloured diamonds – a problem in<br />

itself for determining whether the origin<br />

of colour in a diamond is natural or<br />

introduced.<br />

How are<br />

synthetic<br />

diamonds<br />

coloured?<br />

PINK<br />

HPHT treatment<br />

and / or irradiation +<br />

annealing<br />

RED<br />

HPHT treatment<br />

and / or irradiation +<br />

annealing<br />

GREEN<br />

Irradiation or nitrogen +<br />

boron together or nickel<br />

BLUE<br />

Irradiation or boron<br />

PURPLE<br />

HPHT treatment<br />

and / or irradiation +<br />

annealing<br />

BROWN<br />

Dislocations<br />

YELLOW<br />

Nitrogen<br />

ORANGE<br />

Irradiation + annealing<br />

or nitrogen<br />

BLACK<br />

Inclusions or irradiation<br />

Unlike CVD synthetics that often owe<br />

their colouring to post-growth treatment,<br />

it’s more common for HPHT synthetic<br />

diamonds (that is, diamonds grown by<br />

the High Pressure High Temperature<br />

process) to be coloured ‘as-grown’.<br />

Steps such as removing or introducing<br />

nitrogen in the growth chamber itself<br />

can produce the desired colour in HPHTs,<br />

rather than treating the stone postgrowth.<br />

The pink, purplish-pink, and red colours<br />

seen in HPHT synthetic diamonds<br />

are induced by irradiation and lowtemperature<br />

annealing treatments<br />

post-growth. Green hues can also be<br />

a result of irradiation, though it is not<br />

always the cause.<br />

Given these diamonds are grown in a<br />

laboratory to begin with, there is less<br />

emphasis on determining whether colour<br />

in synthetic diamonds is ‘as-grown’ or<br />

introduced by further treatment, post<br />

manufacturing.<br />

On the other hand, determining the<br />

origin of colour (whether treated or<br />

natural) in natural diamonds can be one<br />

of the most difficult and important tasks<br />

gemmologists currently face.<br />

Mikaelah Egan FGAA Dip DT<br />

began her career in the industry at<br />

Diamonds of Distinction in 2015. She now<br />

balances her role at the Gemmological<br />

Association of Australia with studying<br />

geology at the University of Queensland.<br />

Visit instagram.com/mikaelah.egan<br />

For more information on gems and<br />

gemmology ,go to www.gem.org.au<br />

<strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 35


CELEBRATING<br />

Local Talent<br />

RED MANUKA<br />

'Pohutakawa'<br />

Necklace<br />

Metal: Sterling Silver<br />

with red ochre<br />

enamel accents<br />

Martyn Milligan<br />

Aotearoa, NZ<br />

Australia and New Zealand are not only home to some of the<br />

rarest gemstones in the world, but also the most talented jewellers.<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong> showcases a tapestry of local masterpieces that have been<br />

meticulously crafted with great artisanship, right here on home soil<br />

Manufacturer of<br />

High Quality Findings<br />

Since 1975<br />

9K, 10K, 14K, & 18K Gold<br />

1/20 14K Gold Filled<br />

Sterling Silver<br />

TEL: 001.585.292.0770<br />

sales@jkfindings.com<br />

www.jkfindings.com<br />

NEIL ADCOCK<br />

DESIGN<br />

'Amber Glow'<br />

Ring<br />

Metals: 24-carat<br />

gold and titanium<br />

Gemstones: New<br />

Zealand amber<br />

Neil Adcock<br />

Aotearoa, NZ<br />

ADA HOGSON<br />

'Rosette' Rings<br />

Metals: Available<br />

in 9-carat yellow<br />

gold or 18-carat<br />

yellow gold<br />

Gemstones:<br />

Sapphires<br />

Ada Hogson<br />

Melbourne, VIC


BILL HICKS<br />

DESIGNS<br />

'Twisted Rose' Ring<br />

Metal: Available in<br />

platinum, 18ct white,<br />

yellow, or rose gold<br />

Gemstones: Diamonds<br />

Bill Hicks<br />

Sydney, NSW<br />

COLOUR IS<br />

EVERYTHING.<br />

BLACK & WHITE<br />

IS MORE.<br />

BETHAMY LINTON<br />

SILVERSMITH<br />

'Bloom' Series<br />

Metals: Handcut<br />

anodised titanium<br />

and sterling silver<br />

Bethamy Linton<br />

West Perth, WA<br />

HOLLY RYAN<br />

Meteor Pearl<br />

Double Drop<br />

Earrings<br />

Metal: Available in 9ct<br />

Yellow Gold, 18ct Gold<br />

Plated Sterling Silver,<br />

or Sterling Silver.<br />

Gemstone:<br />

Freshwater pearls<br />

Holly Ryan<br />

Sydney, NSW<br />

TOLL FREE 1800 GERRIM<br />

PO Box 3168 Yeronga<br />

Queensland 4104<br />

sales@gerrim.com<br />

www.gerrim.com<br />

FOLLOW US


<strong>2022</strong> PARADIGM SHIFT<br />

The Great Retail Reset<br />

THE YEAR OF THE<br />

GREAT<br />

Retail<br />

RESET<br />

While the harbingers of doom like to paint a dire picture of the future of retailing - aided<br />

by closed stores, empty shelves, lack of staff and economic instability – the wise note<br />

that, with great challenges come new opportunities. The pandemic may have simply<br />

catalysed a long-overdue ‘great retail reset’ which has helped savvy retailers rebirth.


<strong>2022</strong> PARADIGM SHIFT | The Great Retail Reset<br />

There is no doubt that The Great<br />

Retail Reset is happening, and<br />

will continue for at least another<br />

12 months, or more.<br />

However, while it’s understandable that many<br />

small businesses, and specialist retailers will be<br />

wondering what the future holds, not everything<br />

caused by COVID should be viewed as adverse.<br />

During previous times of upheaval, such as<br />

recessions, world conflict and other pandemics,<br />

amongst all the turmoil, we usually discovered<br />

a few examples of The Law of Unintended<br />

Consequences. In addition, the old proverb every<br />

cloud has a silver lining rings true.<br />

From the outset, COVID-19 caused the flight<br />

to digital consumers all around the world –<br />

at least in the West – who were forced into<br />

online shopping as government restriction and<br />

lockdowns meant they could not visit stores.<br />

This had two impacts, the first: obvious, and the<br />

second could be described as an unintended<br />

consequence. Digital adoption across industries<br />

dramatically increased in the past two years<br />

because, for many, there was no other way to<br />

conduct business.<br />

In essence, it accelerated what was already<br />

in progress. However, for specialist retailers<br />

it fast-tracked investment in digital technology.<br />

Ironically, it accelerated the consumer’s use<br />

of online shopping, too - among people who<br />

had avoided it- or at least had not fully<br />

adopted the option.<br />

As consumers purchased household groceries<br />

and staples – because they had little choice<br />

– it helped instill confidence in ecommerce in<br />

non-essential categories. And with all this new<br />

activity the greatest unintended consequence<br />

came to the fore: people came to realise the<br />

importance of instore shopping.<br />

Perhaps it’s a human trait that we don’t<br />

appreciate things until they’re gone; something’s<br />

value is not realised until it is too late. The<br />

acceleration of ecommerce and online shopping<br />

caused by COVID-19, therefore, made people<br />

understand the importance of life’s little things.<br />

For retailers this was great news because for a<br />

decade or more the pundits have been saying<br />

physical stores would go the way of the dinosaur.<br />

The global pandemic showed that to be false,<br />

though it did cause businesspeople to reevaluate<br />

the importance of their digital offerings.<br />

Indeed, one feeds off the other and vice versa.<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>s also learned that it can be one thing<br />

to have a website, but it’s another thing entirely<br />

to be found by the consumer. Digital acceleration<br />

meant they needed to work harder on their<br />

technology and website. For many, without<br />

shoppers entering their physical store, they<br />

found their online presence wanting.<br />

It’s akin to having a jewellery store in a back<br />

laneway, rather than on the high street.<br />

Perhaps it’s a human trait that<br />

we don’t appreciate things until<br />

they’re gone; something’s value<br />

is not realised until it is too late.<br />

The acceleration of ecommerce<br />

and online shopping caused by<br />

COVID-19, therefore, made people<br />

understand the importance<br />

of life’s little things.<br />

The next example on The Law of Unintended<br />

Consequences – shock to loyalty - arrived<br />

holding the hand of digital acceleration. They<br />

are effectively two sides of the same coin.<br />

What might have been called ‘normal consumer<br />

behaviour’ changed as people discarded their<br />

loyalty to specific brands and stores.<br />

True, some of this was forced upon them when<br />

international supply-chains were affected. That<br />

is, when consumers couldn’t find their preferred<br />

product or shop at their favourite store, they<br />

looked elsewhere, thereby quickening the shock<br />

to loyalty.<br />

This is both a blessing in disguise and<br />

damnation; you can be more easily introduced to<br />

new customers while losing existing business.<br />

Therefore, The Great Retail Reset will mean that<br />

greater focus will be placed on maintaining longterm<br />

customers.<br />

The pandemic brought to the fore a new<br />

consumer: the homebody. Prior to COVID, the<br />

homebody represented a group of people -<br />

largely Millennials - who are said to spend all<br />

their time at home because they can’t afford to<br />

do much more. The homebody economy thrived<br />

during COVID because people worked and<br />

shopped from home.<br />

Their spending reflected a shift, with more<br />

people being forced to be homebodies spending<br />

money on at-home activities and small luxuries.<br />

Many workers not only enjoyed this new way of<br />

life, they wanted it to continue.<br />

This has had a huge impact on CBD retailers<br />

who rely on office workers, however, it has<br />

been a boon for suburban businesses as they<br />

found new customers working from home<br />

during the day.<br />

Every debit has a credit!<br />

Of course, not all retailers survived the<br />

pandemic. It’s difficult to accurately gauge how<br />

many businesses have closed because of COVID,<br />

but it’s fair to say it will be in the thousands.<br />

It is also fair to say that the pandemic caused<br />

landlords to genuinely consider The Great<br />

Retail Reset too, when stores could not pay<br />

rent because they were banned from opening.<br />

This created a more balanced approach to<br />

new discussions (read: ‘debate’) on more<br />

appropriate (read: ‘reasonable’) rents and<br />

tenancy costs. If governments were forced to<br />

step in with legislation to safeguard against<br />

landlords abusing the situation, then you knew<br />

it was serious.<br />

Therefore, another unintended consequence<br />

could be a huge benefit to retailers as landlords<br />

appreciate their customer, signifying another<br />

side of The Great Retail Reset.<br />

The points above are just a few of the lessons<br />

that we have learned since January 2020 - there<br />

are many others, see David Brown’s (below) –<br />

however; for retailers the two most important<br />

changes might seem diametrically opposed but<br />

they reinforce the importance of the other.<br />

The Great Retail Reset takes place with the<br />

knowledge that: 1) Buyers and sellers alike<br />

befriended technology and there’s no going<br />

back and 2) humans are social creatures.<br />

<strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 39


The Great Retail Reset | <strong>2022</strong> PARADIGM SHIFT<br />

The importance of resetting in <strong>2022</strong><br />

Resetting seems to have become the buzzword in the past 18 months. DAVID BROWN says everything from COVID-19<br />

to the economy is spoken about as the opportunity to flick the switch on the wall and boot things back up again.<br />

Whether it’s in your personal life or<br />

business life, recent times may have<br />

caused you to rethink your priorities.<br />

The purpose of this column is not to<br />

focus on your personal priorities but<br />

those of your business.<br />

Are you engaging your business activities<br />

in an area that will provide you with what<br />

you want – both in terms of satisfaction<br />

and financial rewards?<br />

If not, then in which areas do you need<br />

to clean the hard drive and relaunch the<br />

applications, so to speak?<br />

As I often point out, many of our<br />

business practices grow haphazardly<br />

and happen without planning and it pays<br />

to re-evaluate whether these practices<br />

are achieving what is intended or,<br />

indeed, if they are even needed at all.<br />

When undertaking a review, it pays<br />

to focus carefully on the following<br />

key areas.<br />

Who are your preferred customers?<br />

This question differs from ‘who are<br />

your customers’ because it doesn’t<br />

assume you are currently attracting the<br />

customers you want – with no disrespect<br />

to your existing customer base.<br />

Who are you aiming to attract? What<br />

is the demographic and profile of your<br />

typical customer?<br />

The more clearly you can see your ideal<br />

customer, the more likely you are to<br />

attract them.<br />

The more carefully defined your target<br />

market, the more likely they will hear<br />

what you have to say.<br />

Consumers are inundated with<br />

thousands of messages every day from<br />

hundreds of business entities.<br />

If you’re not speaking specifically to your<br />

ideal customer and their current needs,<br />

you will be drowned out by those who do.<br />

Where are your opportunities?<br />

What are the best opportunities for<br />

your business in the future? Is it where<br />

you are currently concentrated? What<br />

new opportunities are opening in your<br />

region or market for which you can take<br />

advantage? Who could you be working<br />

with to expand your business?<br />

Many other businesses already have the<br />

customers you may want to appeal to.<br />

For example, before newlyweds buy<br />

their wedding rings, they have probably<br />

booked their photographer.<br />

What can you do to build a relationship<br />

and a win/win with that photographer?<br />

In what similar situations can you<br />

develop your relationships?<br />

Who is your competition?<br />

Your competitive threats are not only<br />

from your local jewellery competitor. In<br />

fact, increasingly your major competitor<br />

could be from other businesses who<br />

don’t even operate in your country.<br />

Anyone who aims to take dollars from<br />

your clientele is a threat to you.<br />

In today’s business environment stores<br />

face competition, not only from other<br />

jewellers and even other retailers,<br />

but from the online world and the<br />

‘experiences’ industry.<br />

Social media has seen huge growth in<br />

people wanting to show what they have<br />

done, as much as what they have got.<br />

The travel industry, restaurants and<br />

other activities have suffered greatly in<br />

recent times and many jewellers have<br />

benefitted from their loss as consumers<br />

spend their money on other luxuries.<br />

However, this situation won’t continue<br />

indefinitely and you need to prepare for<br />

K E Y TA K E AWAYS<br />

Ready<br />

to Reset<br />

It's easy to let<br />

business processes<br />

get out of control.<br />

Taking too long<br />

to do things? It<br />

pays to re-evaluate<br />

whether some<br />

practices are<br />

needed at all.<br />

It's a glocal world.<br />

Increasingly your<br />

major competitor<br />

could be from other<br />

businesses who<br />

don’t even operate<br />

in the same<br />

country as yours!<br />

If your message<br />

or vision isn't<br />

clear, then your<br />

customers will<br />

flock to your<br />

competitors who<br />

can communicate<br />

their message<br />

more effectively.<br />

If you're losing<br />

momentum and<br />

revenue, ask<br />

yourself: what new<br />

opportunities and<br />

markets are there<br />

to take advantage?<br />

Expand your key<br />

players! Who could<br />

you be working<br />

with to expand<br />

or redirect your<br />

business?<br />

a resumption of normal activity if they<br />

haven’t happened already.<br />

What processes need improving?<br />

Are your management systems<br />

suitable for your current business<br />

needs, or did they ‘come about’ by<br />

chance? When did you last undertake<br />

a review? Do you have processes<br />

and/or procedures that can be<br />

improved or eliminated altogether?<br />

What are the current threats to<br />

your livelihood?<br />

I recently became aware of a successful<br />

retail business on the edge of a town<br />

that had a busy road passing in front<br />

of their store.<br />

The authorities decided to replace the<br />

road with a motorway that took two<br />

years to build, and the business was<br />

ruined practically overnight.<br />

Not all problems can be foreseen but<br />

where we are aware of threats, we need<br />

to be proactive about how we will deal<br />

with them.<br />

What staff do you need?<br />

Much like your systems, your<br />

staffing requirements can<br />

increase of their own accord.<br />

Not only do you need to consider<br />

the number of staff, but the skill<br />

set they require.<br />

The roles you require filled don’t always<br />

match your current staff and the skills<br />

that they have.<br />

It’s important to review your staffing<br />

requirements and the performance of<br />

the keys players you have in each role.<br />

If you want to increase diamond<br />

sales and you don’t have the staff<br />

with the skills to do this, you will<br />

be facing issues.<br />

40 | <strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


<strong>2022</strong> PARADIGM SHIFT | The Great Retail Reset<br />

Retaining staff during the Great Resignation<br />

In periods of great upheaval, the Law of Unintended Consequences comes into play. Few people would<br />

have predicted the problems businesses are having retaining and finding staff, writes DAVID BROWN.<br />

Much has been made about the<br />

changing nature of employment<br />

since COVID-19 and the pandemic<br />

impacted our lives.<br />

Many people, in the face of changing<br />

circumstances and government<br />

payments, are re-evaluating their<br />

priorities and where they want to work,<br />

or even whether they want to work, at all.<br />

Many have opted to take early<br />

retirement; others have resigned<br />

when faced with compulsory vaccine<br />

requirements.<br />

This has had an impact on finding staff<br />

across many industries – from truck<br />

driving to café workers, and the retail<br />

industry is no exception to this.<br />

The Great Resignation is perhaps less<br />

about resignations as much as it reflects<br />

workers moving into areas that provide<br />

more pay opportunities.<br />

But either way, it presents greater<br />

challenges for small businesses looking<br />

to attract and retain quality employees.<br />

In periods such as this, staff churn can<br />

and will increase.<br />

Employee change costs such as paying<br />

out holidays, running recruitment<br />

advertisements or using an employment<br />

agency, and lost productivity while new<br />

staff are ‘nursed’ up to speed, can all<br />

cost a business thousands of dollars that<br />

can often be avoided.<br />

So, the questions are: how do we keep<br />

our existing employees happy so they<br />

don’t go, and how do we attract the best<br />

quality replacements in a competitive<br />

marketplace when we do have to hire?<br />

Here are a few suggestions on making<br />

this process more successful for you.<br />

1. Compensation: Let’s start with the<br />

elephant in the room.<br />

Not offering a competitive salary in<br />

the current climate will have a greater<br />

impact than in the past.<br />

Inflation is a new reality and staff will<br />

become increasingly frustrated with<br />

rising costs if their personal income<br />

doesn’t at least keep pace.<br />

This doesn’t mean that wage<br />

negotiations should be open slather, but<br />

you need to at least be sure you reflect<br />

market rates.<br />

2. Work environment: One of the largest<br />

factors that decide whether staff staying<br />

with your business - or leave - is the<br />

work environment.<br />

If there is continual conflict and tension,<br />

you’ll find many staff heading for the<br />

door.<br />

Effective communication and responding<br />

quickly to issues will help ensure that<br />

minor disagreements don’t turn into<br />

major problems later.<br />

3. Flexibility: More and more staff are<br />

seeking a lifestyle element to their jobs.<br />

Employment that provides this will<br />

tick a lot of boxes for staff members<br />

and ensure longer-term employee<br />

satisfaction.<br />

4. Leadership: In the 1995 movie An<br />

American President, Michael J Fox’s<br />

character unleashes at the President<br />

(played by Michael Douglas) “People<br />

want leadership Mr. President. They are<br />

so thirsty for it they’ll crawl through the<br />

desert towards a mirage, and when they<br />

discover there is no water, they will<br />

drink the sand.”<br />

Most people want<br />

clear, concise,<br />

and decisive<br />

direction yet<br />

it’s a quality<br />

CONSIDER THIS<br />

Time for<br />

Change<br />

Many people<br />

are re-evaluating<br />

their priorities<br />

and where they<br />

want to work<br />

– some seek seachange<br />

and others<br />

want to explore<br />

other options<br />

Ask yourself:<br />

how do we keep<br />

our key existing<br />

employees happy<br />

so they don’t leave?<br />

The Great<br />

Resignation is less<br />

about resignations<br />

but more about<br />

workers moving<br />

into areas that<br />

provide more<br />

pay or different<br />

opportunities<br />

All staff have<br />

different priorities<br />

and there is no<br />

one-size-fitsall<br />

solution to<br />

keeping or hiring<br />

staff. Don't take it<br />

personally!<br />

If staff leave, take it<br />

as an opportunity<br />

to implement<br />

new processes<br />

and seek talent<br />

that can take your<br />

business to new<br />

heights.<br />

that seems to be in<br />

short supply.<br />

According to Inc.com<br />

only 10 per cent of<br />

people are natural<br />

leaders however,<br />

those organisations<br />

with strong<br />

leadership achieve<br />

earnings of 147 per<br />

cent higher per share<br />

than their competitors.<br />

If you are one of the 10 per cent then you<br />

possess a unique ability to attract and<br />

retain staff. If not, then it is a skill that can<br />

be learned and used effectively.<br />

5. Career paths: For younger staff,<br />

an opportunity to progress can be a<br />

significant factor in joining or staying with<br />

a business. Have you outlined to your staff<br />

how they can advance in your business?<br />

Do you discuss opportunities with them<br />

regularly?<br />

A friend’s son currently works for a<br />

cutting-edge tech company that exposes<br />

him to a state-of-the-art environment,<br />

that includes an onsite gaming area in<br />

addition to regular work retreats to<br />

luxury destinations. Moreover, he has<br />

the opportunity to be mentored by a<br />

billionaire business owner.<br />

However, despite these conditions he’s<br />

ready to leave because four years in the<br />

role and he’s still doing the same tasks.<br />

All staff have different priorities and there<br />

is no one-size-fits-all solution to keeping<br />

or hiring staff.<br />

It’s important that you take the time to<br />

determine the individual needs of each<br />

person and attempt to cater to what<br />

keeps them happy. It will be worth the<br />

investment in time and energy.<br />

<strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 41


The Great Retail Reset | <strong>2022</strong> PARADIGM SHIFT<br />

TRACK YOUR PRODUCTIVITY<br />

THE ULTIMATE RETAIL RESET<br />

CHECKLIST<br />

Sales<br />

Remove your holiday social media campaigns – it's a good time<br />

to switch from Christmas to Valentine's Day promotions.<br />

Review your customer database to identify upcoming<br />

celebrations such as birthdays and anniversaries and contact<br />

customers who will be planning to buy gifts.<br />

Pick up post-holiday sales by offering free shipping or<br />

promote a delivery service for repairs and custom design.<br />

Send out 'Let's resize that!' promotions for customers that<br />

may need to resize a gift that doesn't fit.<br />

Increase repair business through text messaging – ask customers<br />

to text you pictures of jobs that need to be done or prongs that<br />

need to be retipped.<br />

Offer new year jewellery cleaning to encourage foot traffic.<br />

Send out reminders to have valuations updated.<br />

Call customers to collect completed repairs and makes<br />

Inventory<br />

Clean and polish stock that has been tried on through the<br />

busy holiday trading period.<br />

Revamp your visual merchandising.<br />

Remove holiday promotions instore and online.<br />

Review gold and diamond prices and adjust your pricing<br />

accordingly<br />

Perform a full stocktake, identifying bestsellers and<br />

bread-and-butter products.<br />

Create a list of required stock that needs to be reordered<br />

and set a budget.<br />

Research brands that you would like to carry – this will<br />

refocus you towards your business’ future.<br />

Look up the hottest new trends so that you can review and<br />

reimagine your existing stock<br />

Remove any discontinued or out-of-stock products on your<br />

website.<br />

Double-check inventory and make sure stock information<br />

and number is up-to-date on the website.<br />

Operations & Housekeeping<br />

Tighten your cybersecurity! Seek professional advice on how to<br />

secure your network and ecommerce platforms to avoid your<br />

system being compromised. Private information and credit card<br />

details must always remain on a secure server.<br />

Review the store's procedural manuals and policies. See where<br />

you need to cut processes or add more security in the New Year to<br />

ensure you and your staff can run the business most efficiently.<br />

OPERATIONS & HOUSEKEEPING CONTINUED...<br />

Thoroughly sanitise store in accordance with COVID-19 prevention<br />

procedures and review hygiene and sanitation policies with staff.<br />

Review store security – if closing, enact procedures to<br />

deter thieves such as setting lights to turn on intermittently.<br />

Prepare and conduct a post-holiday sales staff performance<br />

review and reward those who kicked goals.<br />

Review last year's budgets and set monthly targets ahead of time.<br />

Take time to review where you need to reduce overheads and<br />

prepare a wishlist of where you want to increase your spend<br />

this year (i.e. new talent, website or marketing)<br />

Create a list of business goals you want to achieve and draw<br />

up a timeline to help set measurable milestones<br />

Marketing & Web Presence<br />

Update all relevant information on your website, expire old<br />

marketing campaigns and check for dead links.<br />

Refresh the Homepage with new images – New Year, new trends!<br />

Ensure you are equipped for online customer service with the<br />

right plugins and automated messages.<br />

Review your online privacy terms and policies and consider any<br />

new regulations. Also update copyright dates across all pages.<br />

Standardise product images and take new photos to ensure your<br />

online showroom or catalogue looks enticing.<br />

Update your social media accounts with a number of fresh<br />

products to keep up post-holiday momentum<br />

Create a monthly Best Sellers list and curate special jewellery<br />

for any upcoming promotions<br />

Plan to gather customer feedback post-holidays. Set up surveys<br />

online, review web traffic monitoring and pick up the phone!<br />

Collect insights for next year's ads and begin making notes on<br />

how you will execute your next bigholiday campaign<br />

Make a monthly marketing calendar and ensure that you have<br />

at least one special promotion a month and plan for milestone<br />

dates. Even if it’s modest, ensure you are still reaching your regular<br />

shoppers and new potential customers.<br />

Review your pop-ups and update offers accordingly to grow your<br />

mailing list.<br />

Plan ahead and make a list of create time-sensitive offers and<br />

take advantage of using QR codes to push promotions.<br />

Create a content plan: research topics you want to communicate<br />

with your customers and potential new shoppers, and build a<br />

content strategy focused on your strongest areas.<br />

Update product descriptions and enter as much detail as you can<br />

for each item to optimise it for SEO – you want to be found on those<br />

Google searches!<br />

42 | <strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


THE GREAT RETAIL RESET<br />

Buying Groups Report<br />

Valuable lessons from the pandemic<br />

Much has been written about the impact of the global pandemic as well as the damage caused on businesses<br />

which, of course, then flowed through to people’s personal lives. And while the focus on the negative is<br />

important, what has often been lost is positive and beneficial examples of humam endeavour.<br />

While Australia’s jewellery buying groups<br />

are businesses in their own right, they<br />

are in a unique position because they<br />

each have many members that, while technically<br />

clients, are seen as part of a large family.<br />

The groups, therefore, were not only on the business<br />

coalface of COVID-19, but they have seen first-hand the<br />

impact on people’s personal lives.<br />

It also meant the groups witnessed the wonders of the<br />

human spirit and discovered that in periods of turmoil<br />

we can surprise each other.<br />

“One of the most pleasantly surprising things we’ve<br />

learned is that the concept of ‘local supports local’<br />

is very much alive and well in Australian and New<br />

Zealand communities,” Jorge Joaquim, CFO<br />

Showcase <strong>Jeweller</strong>s says.<br />

“Like most people when the pandemic first unfolded, our<br />

head office team was initially apprehensive about what<br />

the future would hold for our business and personal lives,<br />

but we’ve found that in the uncertain climate surrounding<br />

global transactions, consumers have fallen back into<br />

a more traditional approach to spending, trusting and<br />

supporting their local jewellers as opposed to looking<br />

overseas to make a purchase,” he adds.<br />

Josh Zarb CEO Independent <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Collective (IJC)<br />

also notes the hardiness and how people worked together.<br />

“I think the resilience of stores shone through for me and I<br />

am so proud to see how far many of our stores have grown<br />

their business despite all the uncertainty. The extended<br />

lockdowns were not fun for anyone, we don’t have a large<br />

number of stores in CBD locations so overall as a group,<br />

we still had a very strong year [2021] of trade,” Zarb says.<br />

Claire Packett, head of category – jewellery at Leading<br />

Edge echoes Zarb’s observation: “People’s resilience and<br />

adaptability, in general, have been amazing. The past two<br />

years have been a rollercoaster of good and bad times,<br />

and our members have been able to ride the waves<br />

through this period of time.”<br />

“Everyone is exhausted at the sheer effort that the past<br />

PL A NNING FOR WA RD<br />

Head Priorities<br />

Colin Pocklington<br />

Nationwide <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />

“From late 2020, the demand<br />

for custom design/manufacture<br />

was particularly strong. Both<br />

diamond jewellery and gold and<br />

non-stone set jewellery were up<br />

100 per cent on 2019 figures.”<br />

Josh Zarb<br />

IJC<br />

“I think the resilience of stores<br />

shone through for me and I am so<br />

proud to see how far many of our<br />

stores have grown their business<br />

despite all the uncertainty.<br />

The extended lockdowns<br />

were not fun for anyone.”<br />

Jorge Joaquim<br />

Showcase <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />

“One of the most pleasantly<br />

surprising things we’ve learned<br />

is that the concept of ‘local<br />

supports local’ is very much alive<br />

and well in Australian and New<br />

Zealand communities.”<br />

year has required to keep up with almost daily changes in<br />

rules and regulations, and now just keeping the doors open<br />

with staff shortages is the next challenge. Yet everyone has<br />

maintained their sense of humour and is now planning for<br />

a brighter future.”<br />

Apart from the spirit and resilience of members, many<br />

other things caught people by surprise.<br />

According to Colin Pocklington managing director<br />

Nationwide <strong>Jeweller</strong>s, the substantial growth in<br />

jewellery sales from late 2020 through to June 2021<br />

“was very surprising”.<br />

“A lot of the money that consumers would normally<br />

spend on overseas trips was clearly being diverted to<br />

discretionary products such as jewellery. From late<br />

2020, the demand for custom design/manufacture was<br />

particularly strong. Both diamond jewellery and gold and<br />

non-stone set jewellery were up 100 per cent on 2019<br />

figures,” Pocklington says.<br />

Some of this can be explained by a strong trend throughout<br />

government restrictions and lockdowns. Nicola Adams,<br />

COO Showcase <strong>Jeweller</strong>s agrees that “local jewellers<br />

seemed to be rediscovered for their skill and quality<br />

products, especially with regard to custom pieces, and<br />

customers were happy to pay a higher price point for a<br />

better, local product.”<br />

According to Adams, Showcase staff were pleasantly<br />

surprised with the nationalist approach to spending, and<br />

the support of each other, adopted by many Australian<br />

and New Zealand communities last year.<br />

“In a time with ongoing restrictions on travel and<br />

recreational activities, it seems consumers’ discretionary<br />

income allowances refocused on retail spending rather<br />

than investing in experiences,” Adams says.<br />

However, while the ‘Aussie spirit’ shone through during the<br />

tough times it should not be forgotten that not everyone<br />

coped well.<br />

Erin Keller, membership manager Nationwide explains,<br />

“Having survived the 2020 lockdowns, most retailers<br />

weren’t expecting the additional and longer lockdowns<br />

in 2021. The impacts of these lockdowns on businesses<br />

and stress levels were profound. Recognising this,<br />

<strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 43


The Great Retail Reset | BUYING GROUPS REPORT<br />

PL A NNING FOR WA RD<br />

Head Priorities<br />

our management team provided additional support by<br />

personally checking in with over 200 impacted members.”<br />

Lesson learned<br />

A great many lessons have been learned since the early<br />

days of COVID. Indeed, many simply accelerated the pace<br />

of change that was happening ‘organically’ before the<br />

pandemic, while others are new insights into the future<br />

of retailing.<br />

Pocklington says the most valuable lesson his group<br />

learned is to be flexible, innovative, and supportive.<br />

“With the COVID-related cancellation of physical events<br />

such as conferences and trade fairs, we have learnt to<br />

adapt by running highly successful virtual events. These<br />

events incorporated a strong educational program, and<br />

merchandise offers from our preferred suppliers.”<br />

He also believes members had time to review benefits<br />

the group offered and which members might not have<br />

previously used.<br />

“Many more members utilised and now have a greater<br />

knowledge of the wide range of industry-specific free<br />

support services and expertise that we provide, thanks<br />

to our COVID webinar series.”<br />

Zarb says, “The follow-on effects from COVID and<br />

lockdowns have forever changed the way many of us look<br />

at our overall business models. As a buying group, our life<br />

is interaction and communication and until early 2020 we<br />

had never used Zoom as a communication tool, now we<br />

don’t know how we ever lived without it.<br />

“We are fortunate to have quite a young and progressive<br />

management team however; our members all have varying<br />

levels of experience in digital communication, but overall,<br />

I think they have also learned to use new software such<br />

as Zoom in their own business since the pandemic. Not<br />

only to interact with us at the head office but to conduct<br />

interviews for new staff and to interact with clients for<br />

designs and remakes, as well,” he adds.<br />

Packett says that resilience and adaptability are<br />

paramount to being able to survive and thrive.<br />

“The convenience of online [transactions] has certainly<br />

grown [during the pandemic] as more and more people<br />

were pushed to shop this way during the pandemic. The<br />

e-commerce boom has also been matched by growth in<br />

omni-channel market tactics to attract new customers.<br />

“All of this has made it particularly challenging for small,<br />

independent retailers reliant on foot traffic to help<br />

generate brand awareness, and with limited resources,<br />

capabilities, and budget to compete with larger stores<br />

to drive awareness online. For small retail businesses<br />

to survive and thrive, and retain the diversity of our main<br />

streets, we have learned the importance of being clearly<br />

visible and discoverable online, now more than ever before."<br />

Claire Packett<br />

Leading Edge Group<br />

“People’s resilience and<br />

adaptability, in general, have been<br />

amazing. The past two years have<br />

been a rollercoaster of good and<br />

bad times, and our members<br />

have been able to ride the waves<br />

through this period of time”<br />

Glen Pocklington<br />

Nationwide <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />

“We are working on a cloudbased<br />

design solution that<br />

provides the ability to undertake<br />

significantly more manufacturing<br />

jobs. Following several years of<br />

research and development, we<br />

are planning to launch this new<br />

resource mid-year.”<br />

Nicola Adams<br />

Showcase <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />

“Some of our members have<br />

utilised our website services<br />

to create a digital commerce<br />

platform … while others have<br />

increased their digital presence<br />

on social as a means of<br />

facilitating online awareness.”<br />

Erin Keller<br />

Nationwide <strong>Jeweller</strong><br />

“The impacts of these lockdowns<br />

on businesses and stress levels<br />

were profound. Recognising this,<br />

our management team provided<br />

additional support by personally<br />

checking in with over 200<br />

impacted members.”<br />

Two-way street<br />

The groups also found that members were supporting each<br />

other, offering tips and advice during a period where the<br />

rules changed on a daily basis.<br />

“Our closed Facebook networking group provided focus<br />

for some during these difficult trading conditions and<br />

allowed members to support each other through some<br />

challenging times. With 306 members across Australia<br />

and New Zealand in the Facebook group, there is a huge<br />

amount of industry-specific knowledge being shared<br />

every day,” Keller says.<br />

Adaption became a keyword throughout 2020 and 2021.<br />

“Navigating a pandemic with lockdowns and restrictions<br />

that directly impacted the business operations of the<br />

Showcase head office and Showcase stores has meant<br />

many adaptations over time, including implementing<br />

working from home arrangements for our staff and<br />

increasing digital access for our members,” Adams says.<br />

“Some of our members have utilised our website<br />

services to create a digital commerce platform as a<br />

means to navigate unpredictable in-store operations<br />

over the past two years, while others have increased<br />

their digital presence on social as a means of facilitating<br />

online awareness until in-store operations were once<br />

again steady.”<br />

Nationwide general manager Glen Pocklington echoes<br />

these observations: “We found that where possible, our<br />

members continued to trade during lockdowns via their<br />

websites and social pages with Click and Collect options.<br />

Quite a few members were highly successful with digital<br />

promotions, utilising social media platforms like Facebook<br />

and Instagram.<br />

“Many shared their success stories on the Nationwide<br />

discussion/networking group, offering inspiration and<br />

support to others during these difficult trading conditions”<br />

Glen also points to a continuing strong trend: “It is clear<br />

that the growth and demand for custom-designed jewellery<br />

are not going to abate, and one of the challenges for<br />

jewellers over the next 12 months will be how to take on<br />

more business, with existing manpower and resources.<br />

“We are working on a cloud-based design solution that<br />

provides the ability to undertake significantly more<br />

manufacturing jobs. Following several years of research<br />

and development, we are planning to launch this new<br />

resource mid-year.”<br />

Perhaps the most important business lesson learned<br />

from the pandemic is that while strength in numbers is<br />

a great start, it means little without loyalty, and while it<br />

can be hard to find, it has shone through the jewellery<br />

industry for two years.<br />

44 | <strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


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The Great Retail Reset | BUYING GROUPS REPORT<br />

WHAT'S IN STORE<br />

GROUP STRENGTH DURING THE PANDEMIC;<br />

REAL-LIFE EXAMPLES<br />

If there was ever going to be a time that the value of being a member of a buying group was on<br />

display, then COVID-19 was it. One of the main reasons for joining a group is strength in numbers.<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong> asked the groups to provide examples of how they helped specific members, and how<br />

members benefited in the past two years of the pandemic..<br />

We have provided more than 100 members with personalised email<br />

responses to their landlords who were reluctant to provide the correct<br />

rent relief under the code issued by the National Cabinet.<br />

In fact, we recently had a member whose lease expired during the rent<br />

relief period, and the landlord required them to enter into a new lease at<br />

a higher rental. We provided a letter, with references to the appropriate<br />

sections of the legislation, pointing out that the existing lease term had<br />

been automatically extended by the number of months of rent deferral.<br />

With varying compliance issues from each state and country, we have<br />

guided members with significant HR concerns and assisted in resolving<br />

these situations.<br />

The impact of COVID reduced a few members from breakeven trading<br />

levels to a loss situation. Using our industry-specific trading and<br />

benchmarking system, we identified that the best course of action for<br />

this member was to close the business and move to a more profitable<br />

location. We also provided free support and advice for this member<br />

and helped establish the new store location with free marketing and<br />

promotional assistance.<br />

One of our newer members who weren’t able to travel to Antwerp<br />

because of COVID was still able to participate in our Antwerp Diamond<br />

Broker program ‘virtually’. They were successful in pre-selling more<br />

than $40,000 of Antwerp diamonds and also achieved a significant<br />

increase in their overall diamond sales, which they would not have<br />

been able to achieve otherwise.<br />

Our marketing team provided several members with free marketing<br />

material for their stores and digital platforms, providing advantageous<br />

promotion for the business during these difficult times. This included<br />

our Powerpoint customer presentation on ‘The Path of Diamonds’, to<br />

assist our members in establishing themselves as the expert on<br />

diamonds within their community.<br />

SHOWCASE<br />

SHOWCASE<br />

JEWELLERS<br />

We’ve distributed approximately $3 million in cash flow to members<br />

over the past two years to support Showcase stores amidst the<br />

challenges of operating a small business during a pandemicinduced<br />

economic downturn.<br />

Some of our members have experienced struggles related to rent<br />

negotiations and reductions made necessary from lockdown effects on<br />

business operations. Showcase has been involved in this process with<br />

several members, bringing about a positive outcome in many cases.<br />

We are thrilled to see our members’ businesses not only survive but<br />

prosper in these unprecedented times, with many members recording<br />

some of their strongest growth in many years despite the pressures<br />

presented by restrictions and lockdowns.<br />

Over the past two years, we have brought stores together via<br />

clever communication and have hosted monthly Zoom sessions<br />

from ‘day one’ of the pandemic.<br />

Industry experts were introduced to the group relevant<br />

to what was happening in the industry at the time.<br />

We then recorded the sessions and sent them to all stores as a video<br />

record with notes and attachments and we have also conducted staff<br />

interviews for stores and sat in as advisors on many aspects of their<br />

business.<br />

IJC subscribes to several retail management networks and have<br />

provided our stores with key updates during every phase of the<br />

pandemic and introduced experts in leasing, marketing, customer<br />

journey and HR to assist stores.<br />

We also work closely with members ‘behind the scenes’ to review<br />

their expenses, overheads and stock-ranging and are continuously<br />

assisting them to maintain a healthy bottom line.<br />

We produced several marketing campaigns for the stores to use as<br />

they see fit and we have a very strong digital marketing team, that<br />

have set up all stores with eCommerce, Social Media support and<br />

Database Communication strategies.<br />

One of the biggest challenges during the pandemic has been supply and<br />

delivery issues. Leading Edge has been able to use our stock warehouse<br />

to support members over the past two years when required.<br />

Consignment stock always helps when cash is a little scarce, so this<br />

has been a great benefit for some of our members to alleviate some<br />

of the pressure.<br />

We have had the ability to draw advice and experience from many different<br />

retail categories and deliver savings and opportunities to members, which<br />

can’t be found elsewhere.<br />

This, alongside being able to offer a product that supports all the basic<br />

stock requirements of a store, is unique in the market.<br />

Our team also ensured personalised support to all members throughout<br />

the pandemic as we tried to work with them on their specific needs to<br />

maximise their sales - whether it be sourcing specific products for them<br />

to creating billboards to help sell their items.<br />

The marketing team created close to 100 local and national campaigns<br />

over the past 12 months to support members through this time, and our IT<br />

department has worked one-on-one with stores to optimise their websites<br />

and ensure their e-commerce platforms are performing optimally.<br />

46 | <strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


WHY JOIN<br />

SHOWCASE<br />

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JEWELLERS


The Great Retail Reset | BUYING GROUPS REPORT<br />

WHAT'S IN STORE?<br />

BUYING GROUP MEMBER ACTIVITIES FOR <strong>2022</strong><br />

Following two years of disruption and – in some cases, upheaval – <strong>2022</strong> should be the year<br />

that the buying groups can again gather together with their members. Many educational<br />

and management activities were lost during 2020 and 2021, at least on a face-to-face basis.<br />

Below is a snapshot of the plans and activities by the four buying groups during the year:<br />

Nationwide will commence its <strong>2022</strong> program at the new (…) March<br />

jewellery fair in Sydney, which will include free diamond training for<br />

members and staff, one-on-one consultations, and its six-month<br />

interest-free finance.<br />

Its Retail <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Business Management course has been revamped<br />

and will focus on the daily, weekly, monthly, quarterly and annual<br />

business tasks in order to achieve Industry Best Practices.<br />

Nationwide’s ‘It’s Time Out’ conference at the 5 Star W hotel in Brisbane<br />

is scheduled for May. The conference package, valued at $1,800 is free<br />

for all reward members. The keynote speaker will discuss the seven<br />

most important trends impacting small businesses. Nationwide will<br />

also use the conference to celebrate its belated 30th anniversary.<br />

The group will maintain the International <strong>Jeweller</strong>y & Watch Fair in August<br />

as its major annual event. Its traditional large and extensive lounge area<br />

enables the group to provide member seminars, workshops, individual<br />

consultations, and various merchandise and marketing opportunities.<br />

Throughout <strong>2022</strong>, Nationwide will demonstrate the Industry Merchandise<br />

Performance report. Members using the Retail Edge POS system<br />

now have instant access to the best performing products across all<br />

merchandise departments. Until now, only chain stores had access to<br />

this information. Used correctly, it should assist in increasing sales.<br />

Leading Edge is launching a national initiative titled ‘Local Like U’s’.<br />

The initiative focuses on providing members with tangible support<br />

to attract and retain customers by leveraging its community and the<br />

group’s status as a “trusted and recognised Australian brand”.<br />

A national conference at the Gold Coast is scheduled.<br />

From a product perspective, Leading Edge will work with suppliers<br />

to offer members innovative and fashionable fast-moving lines,<br />

including its Argyle range.<br />

Independent <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Collective is introducing several new marketing<br />

initiatives in early <strong>2022</strong> that will support stores in the design, repair, and<br />

remake area, which will provide members with digital and print content.<br />

Conferences and training workshops will be conducted throughout<br />

the year, while the monthly Zoom catch-ups with expert guest presenters<br />

that were started during COVID, will be maintained.<br />

A mid-year training conference is planned to include the latest<br />

information from business advisors and mentors to ensure members<br />

most current up-to-date business advice.<br />

And finally, IJC is working with several local supply partners on<br />

exclusive product ranges.<br />

SHOWCASE<br />

SHOWCASE<br />

JEWELLERS<br />

Showcase has created a strategic plan to unveil a new series of member<br />

services in <strong>2022</strong>, including leasing, legal, taxation and training services,<br />

to name a few.<br />

Alongside these new services, the group plans to continue and expand<br />

existing service offerings, including members’ access to the Retail Edge<br />

stock management and ordering system; and Showcase’s partnerships<br />

with key international and national stock suppliers.<br />

It will unveil also new product ranges for its exclusive brands -<br />

Dreamtime Diamonds and Passion8 Diamonds.<br />

Showcase’s marketing department has expanded further into digital<br />

marketing support and assistance to help members to create a<br />

professional digital offering.<br />

Showcase’s 40th Anniversary Conference was postponed for the safety<br />

of staff and members but the group is optimistic that the new August<br />

<strong>2022</strong> dates will proceed and be worth the wait.<br />

48 | <strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


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BUSINESS<br />

Strategy<br />

"Sure the pandemic has<br />

made it a tough year<br />

but we've increased<br />

our sales this holiday<br />

season. I know it's<br />

another 12-months away,<br />

but I'm going to review<br />

the sales reports and<br />

make a plan of attack<br />

ahead of time since<br />

some of our strategies<br />

worked like a dream.”<br />

Christmas and New Year are over, start<br />

planning for Christmas and New Year!<br />

You made it through the holiday trading period and might be sighing from relief. But it’s not enough<br />

to hope for the best – start planning stock levels now for a successful <strong>2022</strong>, writes JOSH STRUTT.<br />

“Well have you heard about the great<br />

crusade? We ran into millions, but<br />

nobody got paid.”<br />

These poetic words to the Hunters and<br />

Collector’s famed rock song ‘Holy Grail’<br />

could well apply to one of the most critical<br />

inputs to retail success: sales, margins and<br />

closing stock levels.<br />

Time and time again we see that stock levels<br />

are the ‘poor’ cousins of the three, yet they<br />

command the single largest investment a<br />

retailer makes.<br />

How can your business replicate the world’s<br />

best retailers, accurately managing your<br />

stock levels – thereby avoiding unplanned<br />

markdowns along with maximising cash<br />

flow and profits - while other retailers just<br />

buy what they think will sell, then cross their<br />

fingers and hope for the best?<br />

How many retailers really understand the<br />

significant impact that a well-managed<br />

stock position will have on increased sales,<br />

liquidity, and profitability?<br />

In search of the retail Holy Grail<br />

Let’s explore successful end-of-season<br />

performers from the ‘also-rans’.<br />

While the Christmas and New Year sales are<br />

over, you can now review your results based<br />

on a number of key contributing factors<br />

including economic confidence, weather,<br />

competitive environment and the day of the<br />

week on which Christmas fell. Recording<br />

and analysing factors influencing these key<br />

events in your retail diary for the New Year is<br />

an important step to plan for the end of year<br />

(EOF) <strong>2022</strong>.<br />

Opportunities to maximise stock profitability<br />

depends on good management. Such<br />

management is made a lot easier by good<br />

systems – both computerised and manual<br />

– and the discipline of measuring sales,<br />

margin and stock position.<br />

Working your systems for profit<br />

Have a product budget: Formal product<br />

management often works within a concept<br />

known as Open to Buy (OTB). Plans for<br />

the performance of product groups are<br />

noted in terms of dollars and unit sales,<br />

with corresponding levels of purchases,<br />

discounts and delivery periods etc.<br />

If sales are trending up, you need to buy<br />

more. Discounts can be used to increase<br />

units sold to reduce your closing stock target<br />

where applicable. A good OTB system will<br />

balance all these factors even though that<br />

position may still be months away.<br />

Whether you run a formal OTB via<br />

a management system, computer<br />

spreadsheets or even manually, the key is<br />

to ensure you are working towards your<br />

planned closing stock positions.<br />

If you finish Christmas overstocked then this<br />

trading period will damage your cash flows<br />

and lead to unplanned discounts. Conversely,<br />

too little stock means you have probably<br />

missed out on sales.<br />

‘Retail is detail’<br />

and the detail<br />

you are looking<br />

for is based on<br />

understanding<br />

the velocity<br />

of sales and<br />

margins,<br />

relative to the<br />

amount of stock<br />

held.<br />

Finding the right stock levels to sales<br />

A product budget is an invaluable tool to<br />

manage EOF closing stock positions. It<br />

can help map predictions for customer<br />

purchases, sales, discounts and delivery<br />

times and ensure these positions are<br />

achieved.<br />

Take some time to consider your ‘right’<br />

stock levels.<br />

Average margin: Retailers should try to<br />

differentiate between the concepts of first<br />

margin and average margin. The first<br />

margin is the difference between the initial<br />

sale price and the cost of the item (that is<br />

the ‘buyer’s margin’).<br />

The average margin will reflect the various<br />

prices at which stock items are sold during<br />

an overall time frame and take into account<br />

discounts and/or changes in cost during<br />

that period.<br />

It is the average margin which is reflected<br />

in the profit and loss, however many bestpractice<br />

retailers ‘engineer’ better average<br />

margins by managing first margins and<br />

discounts across the whole trading period.<br />

Whilst a discount may reduce average<br />

percentage margin for part of your range,<br />

the increase in sales may increase dollar<br />

margin.<br />

Good retailing balances these positions<br />

without compromising the required dollar<br />

margin. By managing your discounts, you<br />

will avoid average margins being below plan.<br />

50 | <strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


Business Strategy<br />

For example: Offers such as ‘buy two, get<br />

one free’, may damage margins on one item<br />

but serve to increase your sales and your<br />

average dollar margin per sale.<br />

The best retailers will always focus on<br />

sell-through, margins and closing stock<br />

positions and retailers who focus on sales<br />

only may well be selling themselves short.<br />

Consider the following formal measures<br />

used by some of the world’s best retailers:<br />

• Sell through: This is one of the most<br />

important statistics for products<br />

that have a finite life. The measure is<br />

defined as sales (during a period of<br />

time) divided by stock available to sell.<br />

For example, if you had 80-items and<br />

sold 20 the ‘sell through’ is 25 per cent.<br />

• Week’s Cover: This statistic is similar<br />

to the above in that it measures sales<br />

and stock, except that week’s cover is<br />

the reciprocal of the sell through. From<br />

our previous example, with stock at<br />

80 and one week’s sales of 20, ‘week’s<br />

cover’ is 4.<br />

• Stock turns: This statistic measures<br />

investment in stock as well as sales,<br />

but is more appropriate to core items<br />

that are in stock for longer and/or<br />

re-ordered frequently. For example, if<br />

the 20 sold above occurred over one<br />

month, the extrapolation of sales for<br />

a year is 240. Once again, the average<br />

investment in stock is 80 per month.<br />

Therefore the ‘stock turn’ is three and<br />

indicates how many times the stock<br />

will turn in a 12-month period. Stock<br />

turns provide a handy ready reckoner<br />

as to the relative fitness of a retailer’s<br />

stock and is definitely one of my<br />

favourite measures.<br />

• Best/worst sellers: Without a stock<br />

position, a best or worst selling item<br />

can hide dangerous underlying stock<br />

positions. For example, selling 100<br />

items may sound good, but if the stock<br />

was 1,000 items, the rate of sale may<br />

not be enough to clear this stock.<br />

These statistics must be used with care and<br />

common sense along with a merchandise<br />

management mindset. In isolation each<br />

statistic is potentially irrelevant.<br />

For example, if a product is ‘turning’ eight<br />

times per year at store X and only three<br />

times a year at store Y – you could consider<br />

sending stock from store Y to store X – to<br />

balance supply and demand.<br />

If your ‘sell through’ on product group A is<br />

25 per cent in week 1 of December and only<br />

15 per cent on product group B – you may<br />

have a potential problem in either product.<br />

If your ‘week’s cover’ of earrings was 10 in<br />

the first week of December 2021 and looks<br />

like being three in December <strong>2022</strong>, you may<br />

be running short on stock (assuming you<br />

closed 2021 cleanly).<br />

Overall, avoid looking for the ‘silver bullet’<br />

answer.<br />

‘Retail is detail’ and the detail you are<br />

looking for is based on understanding the<br />

velocity of sales and margins, relative to the<br />

amount of stock held.<br />

Great retailers are already planning for the<br />

EOY22. The correct balance will be assessed<br />

by comparing performance relative to an<br />

objective benchmark point.<br />

That benchmark point may be similar to<br />

last year, but if you rank your performance<br />

across logical subsets of your business,<br />

the worst and best sellers need the most<br />

attention.<br />

By using merchandise management skills<br />

and some imagination, you can manage<br />

offers to head toward a desirable closing<br />

stock position.<br />

There is no point discounting items that<br />

are selling well, but equally it’s better to<br />

CHRISTMAS<br />

TO-DO LIST<br />

Slowly does it<br />

Take time to<br />

consider your<br />

‘right’ stock<br />

levels.<br />

Prioritise<br />

Make slow stock<br />

a loss leader<br />

Make space<br />

Clear poor<br />

performers in<br />

December rather<br />

than January<br />

Stop to reflect<br />

Reflect on your<br />

performance to<br />

make sure you<br />

leave nothing<br />

on the table this<br />

year!<br />

clear poor performers in December than in<br />

January.<br />

Is there a way to avoid a discount?<br />

Can you move the item to another store?<br />

Is there a conditional offer that will benefit<br />

broader sales whilst solving your problem?<br />

Will your supplier assist? If you do need to<br />

discount your item, can you gain a strategic<br />

advantage by making this a loss leader?<br />

It is better to consider these questions<br />

sooner rather than later. If you monitor<br />

performance throughout the year diligently,<br />

you may be able to avoid the effects of<br />

subsequent vicious discounting.<br />

To compete you need a plan to defeat<br />

Use stock statistics to gain additional sales,<br />

but still achieve your required margins, and<br />

ensure your finishing stock level is logical,<br />

both in terms of cash flow and in terms of<br />

the stock you want to start next year with.<br />

There is little point hanging on to dead stock<br />

‘just in case’.<br />

Your Christmas/summer sale period is your<br />

best opportunity to clean your stock rooms.<br />

Use it to your advantage, but use it logically<br />

and plan your management now for <strong>2022</strong>.<br />

Failure to plan is a sure-fire plan to failure<br />

The best retail plans are based on<br />

understanding historical and current<br />

statistics and forecasting the future.<br />

If your current systems cannot help,<br />

change systems. If you don’t have a<br />

system then there is no better time than<br />

the present to establish one that will set<br />

your business on the road to your Holy<br />

Grail of retail success.<br />

JOSH STRUTT is Retail Doctor Group’s<br />

deployment consultant. His background<br />

is in driving tactical operational<br />

efficiency to maximise growth.<br />

Visit: retaildoctor.com.au<br />

<strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 51


BUSINESS<br />

Selling<br />

Rebuilding mental wellbeing in sales<br />

Lockdowns, restrictions and social distancing have all played a part in bringing many of us down;<br />

SUE BARRETT explores how the pandemic has put workplace mental health in the spotlight.<br />

Not long after the pandemic began and<br />

we were all feeling unwell and out of sorts,<br />

the Harvard Business Review published an<br />

article that named what we were feeling,<br />

it was grief. Now we know that was only<br />

the tip of the iceberg of what we would go<br />

through.<br />

The pandemic and its consequences –<br />

on our health, way of living, work, how<br />

business operate, on our livelihoods, etc.<br />

– affected everyone. For business owners<br />

and management there was no choice but<br />

to work through.<br />

Many had to make critical decisions about<br />

the viability of their business, grasp the<br />

impact of gaps and changes in supply<br />

chains, customer behaviour, public health,<br />

employee welfare and face the fact that<br />

some people’s livelihoods would be lost.<br />

Workers had to adjust to work-from-home,<br />

home-schooling children, the uncertainty<br />

and chaos, and in some case the reality of<br />

no longer having a job, sickness, financial<br />

distress, childcare, parent care, to name a<br />

few consequences of the pandemic.<br />

Research also showed that people are<br />

often working longer hours because it’s<br />

difficult to create and structure boundaries<br />

between personal and working time.<br />

Staff spend more time reporting to<br />

managers and customers so work doesn’t<br />

seem invisible and many are burning out<br />

due to the sustained concentration needed<br />

in video meetings.<br />

The lack of personal social interaction has<br />

also taken a toll, particularly for in-field<br />

salespeople used to visiting clients.<br />

All this has brought to the fore discussions<br />

about mental health in businesses. So,<br />

what do businesses and sales teams need<br />

to do to stop, start, and continue doing for<br />

mental wellbeing?<br />

Stop<br />

Toughing it out by yourself: sales has long<br />

held onto the myth of the tough sales<br />

professional who can go it alone and<br />

survive. We have our limits. There should<br />

The question is not what's in your brain, but rather what's in your mind.<br />

be a shift to collaboration and a raised<br />

awareness about mental health, asking<br />

people how they are and taking time to<br />

listen. Seeking help should openly be<br />

encouraged.<br />

Pretending everything has to be positive<br />

all the time: Let’s move away from the<br />

sugary-coated, super positive hype often<br />

inflicted on sales staff. We already know<br />

this stuff does nothing for anyone’s short,<br />

medium, or long-term success and is a<br />

waste of time, effort, and money.<br />

Instead, expect to see more candid, real<br />

and constructive communication about<br />

‘what is’, ’what’s possible’ and ’what we<br />

can do’. This approach will be far more<br />

enriching and long-lasting than any hypedup<br />

motivational speech.<br />

Start<br />

Acknowledging salespeople as more<br />

than just closers of deals: sales leaders<br />

are reporting that some staff were<br />

experiencing, in essence, existential crises<br />

during lockdown because their day-to-day<br />

interactions were taken away.<br />

For many salespeople their daily<br />

interactions with their customers,<br />

markets, and competitors are a vital part<br />

of their social life and their identity.<br />

Finding new ways to stay connected:<br />

effective salespeople understand the vital<br />

importance of staying in touch with clients<br />

and markets.<br />

Expect to see<br />

more candid,<br />

real and<br />

constructive<br />

communication<br />

about ‘what is’,<br />

’what’s possible’<br />

and ’what we<br />

can do’. This<br />

approach will<br />

be far more<br />

enriching and<br />

long-lasting<br />

than any hypedup<br />

motivational<br />

speech.<br />

Workplaces, especially retail stores,<br />

have much more stringent COVID safety<br />

standards in place so people won’t be able<br />

to ’pop in’ like they used to.<br />

To give your staff some degree of<br />

agency and take the worry out of staying<br />

connected, smart managers are already<br />

rebuilding how their teams can keep<br />

selling, stay connected, and create an<br />

office ‘vibe’.<br />

This includes collaboration software, help<br />

to set up functional home office spaces,<br />

safe and flexible working arrangements<br />

and regular communication with each<br />

other to show support, share ideas and<br />

find ways to be successful together.<br />

Providing mental health support:<br />

organisations that are yet not providing<br />

some sort of mental health support will<br />

have to look into this. Support can mean<br />

raising awareness and guiding people to<br />

where they can find professional help,<br />

tips and tools, and activities to promote<br />

wellbeing.<br />

Continue<br />

Collaborating and communicating: smart<br />

business leaders should collaborate and<br />

communicate on a deeper level and more<br />

often. Creating open communication is<br />

not only worthwhile but also essential for<br />

success.<br />

This is where we are likely to see the sales<br />

profession really become a collaborative<br />

team sport as we find better ways to stay in<br />

touch and maintain relationships internally<br />

and externally.<br />

Humans, after all, are social creatures and<br />

rely on interactions with each other to get<br />

along and work together. This is our true<br />

nature and so it can be with sales.<br />

SUE BARRETT is founder and CEO of<br />

innovative and forward-thinking sales<br />

advisory and education firm Barrett.<br />

Learn more: barett.com.au<br />

52 | <strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


BUSINESS<br />

Management<br />

The global pandemic: What buyers discovered<br />

It’s possible to guide a conversation by asking the right questions.<br />

RYAN ESTIS says you should encourage customers to examine their plans.<br />

How much time do you spend each<br />

week presenting new ideas? We all<br />

spend an increasingly significant<br />

portion of our work days drawing on our<br />

persuasive communication skills to build<br />

relationships, earn trust and align to<br />

shared objectives.<br />

These skills, along with other ‘soft skills’<br />

such as creativity and critical thinking,<br />

will only become more important as we<br />

move further along towards the so-called,<br />

Fourth Industrial Revolution.<br />

These transferable skills are essential to<br />

keep pace with change as technical skills<br />

increasingly become obsolete. According<br />

to the World Economic Forum, within the<br />

next decade automation and AI (artificial<br />

intelligence) will affect more than one<br />

billion workers globally.<br />

Here are five ideas to help you develop your<br />

persuasive communication skills.<br />

Abandon negative stereotypes<br />

When many people think about ‘sales,’<br />

they think about a bad buying experience<br />

that usually includes an overly eager or<br />

aggressive sales rep.<br />

In fact, professional selling is about<br />

understanding another person’s needs,<br />

and helping them solve problems or<br />

accelerate opportunities. When you start<br />

thinking about sales as a collaborative,<br />

problem-solving effort, you expand your<br />

perspective and opportunities.<br />

No matter your function, the ability to<br />

communicate your ideas in a compelling<br />

way that resonates and helps challenge<br />

people’s assumptions is valuable. If you<br />

believe in what you’re doing and that what<br />

you’re doing is right, you’re not just selling<br />

– you are being helpful.<br />

Persuasive communication is essential to<br />

advance your position. You can’t contribute<br />

something valuable without convincing<br />

someone why you’re right.<br />

Focus on being helpful<br />

I call this the ‘service mentality’. When your<br />

goal is to convince or persuade someone,<br />

Discovery stems from a logical process of asking the right questions.<br />

don’t focus on how you can get them to do<br />

something, instead, focus on how you can<br />

be helpful. Think about the other person’s<br />

goals and objectives and how you can help<br />

get them there.<br />

When trying to understand another<br />

person’s view, follow this classic<br />

communication principle: seek first to<br />

understand, then be understood. Leaders<br />

are listeners, and active listening is an<br />

essential part of effective communication.<br />

The best salespeople are both helpers<br />

and teachers. They’re trustworthy, likable,<br />

collaborative and curious. They make<br />

an effort to uncover problems and then<br />

demonstrate how their solution can help.<br />

Provide context<br />

Content might be king, but context closes<br />

deals. If you’re presenting a new jewellery<br />

design to a customer or a new concept to<br />

your boss for example, come prepared<br />

with inspiration behind the design, why a<br />

new approach might work for the business<br />

model and customer, research and any<br />

additional insight you can leverage.<br />

Ideas need context to be relevant. When<br />

you have a good idea or a belief system,<br />

it’s likely that you will meet resistance<br />

along the way. How do you overcome this<br />

resistance? By coming prepared. Provide<br />

credible, well-researched design styles or<br />

management solutions and find examples<br />

that will convince others to jump on board.<br />

Plan for overcoming resistance<br />

Prepare to meet with resistance. I’m<br />

When trying<br />

to understand<br />

another person’s<br />

position or<br />

view, follow<br />

this classic<br />

communication<br />

principle:<br />

seek first to<br />

understand,<br />

then be<br />

understood.<br />

talking about that N-O word. Your natural<br />

reaction may be to give up or shut down,<br />

but often resistance can be an opportunity.<br />

Understanding concerns, objections and<br />

barriers is critical to making progress.<br />

Great sellers view resistance as an<br />

opportunity to learn, understand and<br />

advance the dialogue.<br />

So be prepared. Think through what you<br />

expect the resistance to be and how you<br />

will respond. Preparation may just provide<br />

you with the level of confidence and<br />

conviction to help evolve the perspective.<br />

However, it’s also important to recognise<br />

that once a decision has been made, even<br />

if it doesn’t land in your favour, move<br />

forward. Having the ability to disagree and<br />

commit is critical to getting things done.<br />

Ask open-ended questions<br />

Good questions are one of the most<br />

important ways to communicate. Often,<br />

when I’m trying to sell, I do this by<br />

viewing a question. When you meet with<br />

resistance, probe. Go deep enough so you<br />

walk away from the conversation with new<br />

information and insight.<br />

Learn more – their position, challenges,<br />

needs and areas of confusion – so you can<br />

help them move beyond their resistance.<br />

It is possible to guide a conversation by<br />

asking the right questions. Encourage a<br />

customer to examine their plans and goals<br />

through open-ended questions. That way,<br />

you can both see the big picture and figure<br />

out how you or your product can fit into<br />

their grand idea.<br />

Persuasive communication skills are<br />

crucial to working from a position of<br />

influence. Developing your communication<br />

skills will help to navigate your work more<br />

effectively, build relationships and thrive<br />

during increasingly challenging times.<br />

RYAN ESTIS helps companies to<br />

embrace change, attack opportunity<br />

and achieve breakthrough performance.<br />

Learn more: ryanestis.com<br />

<strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 53


BUSINESS<br />

Marketing & PR<br />

Three steps to creating a great<br />

customer experience strategy<br />

The best customer experience strategy encourages a bold vision and<br />

takes all staff along for the ride, writes STEVEN VAN BELLEGHEM.<br />

One of the most popular questions in my<br />

conversations with decision makers has to<br />

be about setting up a successful customer<br />

experience (CX) strategy.<br />

The solution is at the intersection between<br />

your customers, staff and the vision<br />

binding everything together and any solid<br />

CX strategy should integrate a three-step<br />

approach:<br />

Create an engaging vision<br />

At the heart of any successful business<br />

strategy lies a powerful yet tangible vision<br />

and that’s no different when dealing<br />

with customers. The usual, ‘putting the<br />

customer at the centre’ is not sufficiently<br />

specific to enthuse and engage your staff.<br />

Identify the customer’s problem or their<br />

‘want’ and what you can do to improve<br />

their life and which mindset should be<br />

connected to that.<br />

Don’t start from a key performance<br />

indicator attitude but focus on an ‘intention<br />

mentality’ and make sure you are truly<br />

useful and helpful to customers, not just<br />

with your core offering but also with your<br />

other products and services.<br />

A good example of creative thinking is Lumi<br />

nappies by Pampers. Proctor and Gamble<br />

(P&G) pushed a standard commodity like<br />

a nappy to a whole new level by adding a<br />

baby monitor and sleep app into the ‘mix’.<br />

With this approach, P&G does not just<br />

sell nappies, instead, it aims to be a true<br />

partner in the life of parents and ‘helps the<br />

whole family rest easier’, as its website<br />

states.<br />

So, just like P&G with Lumi, make sure that<br />

your vision is both concrete and appealing.<br />

All staff should know how to contribute<br />

The reason why you need step one, a<br />

concrete and engaging vision, is to get your<br />

staff on board with your CX vision.<br />

It should not be some top-secret for<br />

‘C-level only’ strategy document; it needs<br />

to resonate throughout the entire business.<br />

The link between the vision, customer and<br />

Puzzled? The key to customer engagement is always experience.<br />

staff in large companies is often buried<br />

below processes, KPIs or vague slogans.<br />

Factory workers or people in HR often lack<br />

that tight connection with the customers<br />

but it is absolutely crucial if a company<br />

wants to offer great CX.<br />

There is no shortcut to achieve a tight<br />

relation between staff, vision and the<br />

customer. There’s no secret ingredient,<br />

you might have to find a way to convince<br />

your employees one by one.<br />

However, in SMEs, especially retail<br />

based business such as jewellery stores,<br />

focusing on customer satisfaction and<br />

enjoyment is much easier.<br />

One of my favourite examples of a business<br />

that has every staff member on board with<br />

the company’s vision has to be Disney, and<br />

the fact that it’s a master storyteller has a<br />

large role to play in that.<br />

From the outset, Walt Disney decided his<br />

theme parks would not have ‘employees’,<br />

instead they would be cast members who<br />

wear a costume, not a uniform and that<br />

made a huge difference in the way they<br />

engaged and behaved with customers/<br />

visitors<br />

He also made sure everyone knew their<br />

vision and stayed in character. From the<br />

actors playing Snow White to the staff<br />

selling ice cream or the cleaners: everyone<br />

knows their role in the script.<br />

Creating a<br />

vision and<br />

ensuring all<br />

staff are aware<br />

of their role is to<br />

accomplish the<br />

vision to help<br />

create fantastic<br />

customer<br />

experiences, are<br />

fundamental<br />

steps in a CX<br />

strategy.<br />

Make sure staff receive customer feedback<br />

Creating a vision and ensuring all staff are<br />

aware of their role is to accomplish the<br />

vision to help create fantastic customer<br />

experiences, are fundamental steps in a CX<br />

strategy.<br />

However, one crucial step many companies<br />

seem to neglect is ensuring staff receive<br />

feedback from customers.<br />

If they don’t know what customers think<br />

and feel about their work, they won’t be<br />

able to replicate what worked or change<br />

what didn’t work.<br />

This direct link is essential in order to<br />

offer great CX and keep adapting it to<br />

customers’ changing needs. Use quotes,<br />

videos, audio fragments or feedback<br />

scores, but make sure all staff know what<br />

customers feel about them.<br />

For example, at Coolblue – a Dutch<br />

ecommerce company – every morning the<br />

delivery drivers are shown their previous<br />

day’s Net Promotor Score.<br />

In a more hands-on approach, Dutch<br />

insurance company Centraal Beheer, (CB)<br />

holds Small Dent Days which they organise<br />

four times per year.<br />

On these days, 10,000 people have small<br />

dents in their car repaired free of charge<br />

while they are warmly welcomed by CB’s<br />

insurance agents, creating a human<br />

relationship and direct feedback with<br />

customers they otherwise almost never<br />

meet in person.<br />

A successful CX strategy goes beyond a<br />

written policy. All levels of the business<br />

must be involved in an engaging and clear<br />

vision that relies on constant feedback to<br />

fuel progress.<br />

STEVEN VAN BELLEGHEM<br />

provides coaching, workshops and<br />

advice about social media and<br />

conversation management. Learn More:<br />

stevenvanbelleghem.com<br />

54 | <strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


BUSINESS<br />

Logged On<br />

How user experience can impact your SEO<br />

Do you want your customers to hang around on your website? GARRY GRANT<br />

says you might need to take a long hard look at your user experience.<br />

User Experience is being touted as one<br />

of the most critical factors for effective<br />

search engine optimisation (SEO).<br />

With the average attention span of internet<br />

users seemingly decreasing by the day, and<br />

a generation that expects instant results, a<br />

website’s speed and ease of navigation are<br />

of utmost importance. So what is UX, SEO,<br />

how do you improve them and why are they<br />

so essential for retailers?<br />

What is UX?<br />

It’s all about the experience a website<br />

visitor receives when they view and<br />

navigate a site. A positive UX is made up<br />

of several factors including, but not limited<br />

to, the following:<br />

Loading speed; easy site navigation;<br />

minimal ads and pop-ups; quality content<br />

and a website that’s pleasant to view.<br />

The goal is for the visitor to have an<br />

excellent visual experience and navigate<br />

your site easily.<br />

Who really cares about user experience?<br />

Visitors care about good UX, so basically<br />

everybody. Dwell time, or ‘time on page’ as<br />

Goggle calls it, will be greater on a website<br />

that offers a positive user experience.<br />

If you present readers with a page loaded<br />

with flashing ads, loud colours, massive<br />

blocks of text, the visitor will most likely<br />

immediately leave the website. Google<br />

calls this ‘bounce’, as in they leave or<br />

bounce to another website. Therefore, a<br />

high bounce rate is a sign of poor UX.<br />

Site speed is also part of improving your<br />

UX, the faster it takes for a page to load the<br />

better, therefore, site speed is an evermore<br />

critical aspect. Of course this will<br />

also depend on the visitor’s internet speed,<br />

however, even a fast website load time<br />

won’t make that much difference if a site<br />

has errors, long load time and is sluggish<br />

when navigating.<br />

The aim is to make sure each page opens<br />

quickly and seamlessly. It will keep visitors<br />

on your site and reduce your bounce rate,<br />

which is good for Google rankings.<br />

No one wants to stick around your website if you don't curate the UX.<br />

Does a poor UX lead to lower rankings?<br />

UX will affect your rankings, conversion<br />

rates, and bounce rates. And that adds up<br />

to gaining or losing traffic, rankings, and<br />

new customers. Sites that are slow to load<br />

will be disadvantaged in the Search Engine<br />

Results Page (SERP) results.<br />

Google aims to deliver the best results for<br />

a search query therefore it assesses many<br />

factors in order to arrive at these results.<br />

Quality content is always vital, as are<br />

natural back-links and UX is of prime<br />

importance, because quality overall has<br />

become vital in the search engine world.<br />

For example, imagine people are visiting<br />

a website and immediately leaving<br />

(bouncing). This indicates to the search<br />

engines that the site is not offering a<br />

good UX.<br />

It could be something as simple as the<br />

content not being what the visitor expected,<br />

the site looking like a jumbled mess or<br />

being far too slow to open.<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y retailers should review their<br />

website from a visitor’s point of view to<br />

tweak, test, and make design changes or<br />

adjustments that will improve the UX.<br />

Why are technical SEO and UX important?<br />

Technical SEO and UX help with your site’s<br />

SEO and ranking performance. It also adds<br />

to the UX because the website functions<br />

correctly and delivers the promised<br />

Social networks<br />

want you to<br />

have a better<br />

experience<br />

so they can<br />

sell more<br />

advertising at a<br />

higher price.<br />

content discovered in search results.<br />

Technical SEO covers things like: the site’s<br />

initial interaction with the SERPs; overall<br />

quality and relevance of the landing page;<br />

loading speed and JavaScript frameworks.<br />

The user experience can even go one<br />

step further by providing ways to interact<br />

with your site and your brand even after a<br />

visitor has left, perhaps by inviting them<br />

to join your email list, re-marketing, drip<br />

campaigns, a social media presence for<br />

your brand, and so on.<br />

How to improve your user experience<br />

All website owners should at least get<br />

familiar with white hat SEO – a term used<br />

to define honest and reputable activities -<br />

and the basics of UX to remain competitive.<br />

One of the best ways to improve the user<br />

experience is to view it from the angle of<br />

your visitor’s needs:<br />

• What are they hoping to find when they<br />

get there?<br />

• Is the content useful and easy to read?<br />

• If you were a visitor, would you like to<br />

spend time on your site?<br />

• Are the pages filled with too many<br />

distractions?<br />

• Are the menu and navigation logical?<br />

Enlisting expert help to focus on the<br />

mechanics of SEO and high-quality UX<br />

should also be useful as retailers often don’t<br />

have the time, knowledge, or inclination to<br />

improve UX.<br />

Search engine giants such as Google will<br />

factor in a positive UX more every time<br />

they do an algorithm update.<br />

So, if you want your website to stay<br />

ahead of the curve then focusing on<br />

an exceptional UX is of paramount<br />

importance.<br />

GARRY GRANT is a veteran expert in<br />

search engine optimisation and the<br />

digital marketing industry. He is CEO of<br />

consultancy SEO Inc. Visit: seoinc.com<br />

<strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong> | 55


My Bench<br />

Darren Nancarrow<br />

Diann Darling <strong>Jeweller</strong>s. Engadine NSW<br />

Age 49 • Years in Trade 33 • Training Trade Certificate at Ultimo Technical College First job Apprentice <strong>Jeweller</strong><br />

SIGNATURE PIECE<br />

CEYLON SAPPHIRE & DIAMOND RING<br />

2.12ct Ceylon Sapphire double halo ring with F / G colour<br />

diamonds in 18-carat yellow and white gold. This piece<br />

was made for stock as a point of difference. Our clientele<br />

prefer jewellery designs that are classical yet outspoken.<br />

4FAVOURITE GEMSTONE Sapphires, especially<br />

Australian sapphires with the variety of colours, their<br />

hardness being a great selling point.<br />

4FAVOURITE METAL 18-carat yellow gold due to it<br />

being a clean and easy worked metal. It’s also nice to<br />

have a change from the large majority of remakes<br />

being white gold or platinum.<br />

4FAVOURITE TOOL Definitely the saw frame, which<br />

allows many different techniques, styles<br />

and intricacies to be created.<br />

4BEST NEW TOOL DISCOVERY Draw bench (saves<br />

my arms!)<br />

4BEST PART OF THE JOB The face of a happy client.<br />

4WORST PART OF THE JOB Polishing<br />

4BEST TIP FROM A JEWELLER Learn from your<br />

mistakes<br />

4BEST TIP TO A JEWELLER It’s good to listen to<br />

others opinions because we never stop learning.<br />

4BIGGEST HEALTH CONCERN ON THE BENCH<br />

My back<br />

4LOVE JEWELLERY BECAUSE Being able to create<br />

a design that means so much to someone and may<br />

hopefully be passed down for years to come.<br />

56 | <strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


OPINION<br />

Soapbox<br />

Resetting the jewellery industry<br />

from top to bottom<br />

At the start of this New Year retailers and suppliers should focus on rebuilding and resetting<br />

the Australian jewellery industry back to where it once was, writes GARY FITZ-ROY.<br />

It’s been a tough time for all businesses,<br />

but some more than most. And while<br />

it's not a competition about who fared<br />

worst during the (ongoing) COVID<br />

pandemic, we should spare a thought for<br />

those industries, which, effectively, find<br />

themselves still closed.<br />

While the health restrictions, lockdowns<br />

and border closures, along with the stopstart-stop<br />

announcements by various state<br />

governments made it extremely difficult<br />

for a business to function – sometimes<br />

impossible – it's fair to say some businesses<br />

have boomed since <strong>February</strong> 2020.<br />

Sadly, some are still in limbo, all but<br />

‘closed’, two years on. Think airlines and<br />

international travel. Unfortunately, my own<br />

industry – exhibitions and events – sits<br />

somewhere in between those that have been<br />

minimally impacted and those that have<br />

been severely affected.<br />

Like you, the end of 2021 brought a<br />

collective feeling of relief and calm.<br />

Restrictions were easing, confidence was<br />

rebuilding and optimism was high for<br />

<strong>2022</strong> - and the continued return towards<br />

some form of normality.<br />

However, it's fair to say it doesn't feel like we<br />

got what was promised, or at least expected.<br />

The year has not started as expected,<br />

but it is important that we – retailers and<br />

suppliers alike – regroup and reset.<br />

It’s important that we all work together.<br />

It’s been happening in small ways<br />

throughout the past two years of the<br />

pandemic. People would call their<br />

business associates and colleagues to<br />

check to see if they were okay, and I also<br />

saw how people began to ‘think local’.<br />

Buyers and sellers went out of their way to<br />

help each other’s business and support each<br />

other. And that wasn’t just in the jewellery<br />

industry; I have seen it everywhere.<br />

Yes, in some cases people had no choice<br />

because supply chains were disrupted, but<br />

I got the feeling that even if they were, the<br />

same thing would have happened.<br />

My contact with the jewellery buying groups<br />

showed that they often lead the way. They<br />

have worked hard for the benefit of their<br />

industry.<br />

For the past two years all event organisers<br />

have found themselves between a rock<br />

and hard place. (Well, those that survived<br />

the first six months, and didn’t close.)<br />

Planning, organising and announcing events<br />

takes time and money, and there are many<br />

upfront costs that once started, we cannot<br />

recuperate or be refunded.<br />

Combine that with rule changes<br />

announced by the various state<br />

governments on a weekly, if not daily<br />

basis, the business environment has been<br />

fraught with enormous risk. Nevertheless,<br />

we saw our position as being a conduit for<br />

bringing the industry together; under one<br />

united ‘banner’.<br />

The amazing thing has been that, when it<br />

sank in that there wouldn’t be major trade<br />

exhibitions for the industry to come together,<br />

they realised their importance and role. I am<br />

still surprised to find how many calls and<br />

emails I have received from people saying<br />

things like, “Boy I miss the trade show”, or<br />

“I will never go near a ‘virtual’ trade show or<br />

Zoom seminar again”.<br />

People love meeting face-to-face. Live<br />

events create real conversations and<br />

transactions that are three dimensional and<br />

personal. They connect on a whole different<br />

level; emails, zoom, and teams are onedimensional.<br />

Part of our role in creating the opportunity<br />

for buyers and sellers to meet under<br />

one roof is making timely decisions that<br />

are in the best interest of everyone we<br />

serve. Sometimes the decisions are not a<br />

popularity contest – they impact people - but<br />

we always chose the option we considered<br />

the right and decent thing to do.<br />

People love<br />

meeting face-toface.<br />

Live events<br />

create real<br />

conversations<br />

and<br />

transactions<br />

that are three<br />

dimensional<br />

and personal.<br />

They connect<br />

on a whole<br />

different level;<br />

emails, zoom,<br />

and teams<br />

are onedimensional.<br />

A favourite saying of mine guides many<br />

of our decisions: "The first step toward<br />

success is taken when you refuse to be a<br />

captive of the environment in which you find<br />

yourself".<br />

When pushed into a corner you either take<br />

flight or fight! We choose to fight.<br />

Believing in the jewellery industry and<br />

talking less, and doing more, is the only way<br />

to build confidence in COVID-world. That’s<br />

something I believe is the fundamental and<br />

most important aspect to not only getting<br />

business back on track, but also resetting<br />

retail for a brighter future.<br />

And that’s because, if there is one thing that<br />

the pandemic has proved it’s that shopping<br />

at retail stores is more important than<br />

anyone ever believed. It’s about face-toface<br />

and physical interaction, right down to<br />

shaking the hand of a colleague!<br />

Any supplier who paid to ‘exhibit’ at a<br />

virtual jewellery show will attest to that;<br />

they were disasters. And as much as the<br />

operator – who took their money for little<br />

or no result – will say otherwise, they<br />

don’t work, people prefer face-to-face,<br />

whether it be b2c or b2b interactions.<br />

Following a number of years of industry<br />

controversy, and now two years suffering<br />

under the restrictions and lockdowns<br />

caused by the pandemic, we are not out<br />

of the water quite yet. But one thing is for<br />

sure, we need to help each other, and we<br />

need to buy local and support Australian<br />

suppliers.<br />

And above all, while there are still people<br />

who attempt to create division, we need<br />

to unite and reset the industry from top to<br />

bottom in the light of the ‘new normal’.<br />

Name: Gary Fitz-Roy<br />

Business: Event management<br />

Position: Managing director<br />

Location: Sydney, NSW<br />

Years in the industry: 30<br />

58 | <strong>February</strong> <strong>2022</strong>


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