The Trumpet Newspaper Issue 562 (January 12 - 25 2022)

Page10 TheTrumpet JANUARY 12 - 25 2022
Beauty
5 tips for instant skin glow from a
Scientist’s perspective
By Eve Casha
Finding it hard to maintain healthy
skin this season? Changes to colder,
dryer weather and busy holiday
schedules can cause dull, red, lackluster
skin.
Dermoi’s Chief Scientific Officer - Eve
outlines her top 5 tips to revive a stressed
complexion for quick glow.
1. Fight Inflammation with Active
Ingredients
Stress, poor sleep, poor diets, cigarettes,
UV radiation, pollution, allergy, and
weather changes can all cause
inflammatory reactions within the skin, and
this tends to develop into excess redness
and blotchiness.
Adopting powerful anti-inflammatory
active ingredients that can calm
inflammation at a cellular level to instantly
soothe the skin. Some examples include
actives such as Ginkgo biloba as it has
anti-redness, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant
properties or Endothelyol® as it
will reduce inflammation, blood vessel
dilation, and histamine release.
2. Repair Skin Barrier with Occlusive
Agents
The skin barrier is composed of dead skin
cells (anucleate corneocytes) surrounded
by a lipid matrix. With harsh weather,
alcohol, stress, cigarettes, and/or poor diets,
it is very easy to disturb this barrier. This
not only leads to inflammation, but also
causes increases in transepidermal water
loss (TEWL) leading to dullness and
dryness.
Moisturisers containing effective
occlusive agents that will form water
resistant layer over the skin can repair
skin barrier function. This will restore
suppleness and glow.
3. Exfoliate… but not too much.
Even if the skin is in optimal health, an
accumulation of dead skin cells on the
surface can give a rough, flaky, dull finish.
Exfoliation will remove dead cells to reveal
smoother, younger-looking skin, however,
exfoliating too frequently or with
aggressive exfoliants will have the
opposite effect. It will dehydrate and thin
the skin barrier, increasing TEWL.
Try exfoliating only once per week
with enzymatic or chemical exfoliators to
see how skin reacts. Products containing
lactic acid at a concentration of 10% or
less can be helpful as that is also a natural
moisturizing factor in the skin. Always
balance exfoliation with occlusive
moisturizers.
4. Add Water Back into Skin with
Humectants
The skin is naturally structured to bind and
store water molecules; however, depending
on skin health, this water can easily be lost
through the epidermis.
Humectants are ingredients that bind
water and draw them into the skin. For
example, hyaluronic acid is a wellestablished
cosmeceutical active that can
bind 1000x its weight in water, but other
humectants such as sodium PCA or
glycerin will work. The trick is to always
combine humectants with occlusive
agents to lock in hydration, otherwise
TEWL can increase.
5. Supplement Antioxidants Topically
and Orally
We are constantly exposed to free radicals
(highly reactive molecules in pollution &
UV radiation) that change gene expression
and damage our lipids, proteins, and DNA.
While our body naturally produces
protective antioxidants, it’s easy for our
natural defences to become overwhelmed
during the holiday season.
Daily supplementation with
bioavailable nutraceutical supplements,
topical use stable antioxidant serums, and
investing in antioxidant-rich facial
treatments, will support our bodies’
defence mechanisms, preventing dullness
and premature aging.
Eve Casha who holds a MSc in
Pharmaceutical Formulation is Dermoi’s
Chief Scientific Officer.
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