19223_ATB_EA Season Guides_22_V_PREVIEW
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SPRING-SUMMER 20<strong>22</strong><br />
Guide<br />
off-road at Shahdag<br />
and Tufandag<br />
p. 42<br />
Baku for culture<br />
vultures<br />
p. 18<br />
tee off in<br />
Azerbaijan<br />
p. 34<br />
the cuisine of<br />
Nakhchivan<br />
p. 38
Welcome!<br />
Sharg Bazaar 4<br />
NOVRUZ<br />
traditions and<br />
rituals 24<br />
Keen to travel again after all the lockdowns and movement restrictions?<br />
Azerbaijan is now welcoming back visitors and is the perfect place for<br />
a post-pandemic holiday with its vibrant capital, varied attractions<br />
and remote, uncrowded places. In this issue we highlight some great<br />
things to do this spring and summer, from the ancient rituals of Novruz<br />
and the cuisine of Nakhchivan, to the Azerbaijan Grand Prix 20<strong>22</strong> and<br />
opportunities here for golfers. In addition, you can discover Baku’s best<br />
cultural sites and the country’s most iconic castles. There's information<br />
too about the top farms and plantations to visit, outdoor activities at<br />
the Shahdag and Tufandag mountain resorts, and the spectacular<br />
new Sharg Bazaar. Enjoy!<br />
Have<br />
something<br />
to say?<br />
Send us your feedback by writing to<br />
experienceazerbaijan@tourismboard.az.<br />
We look forward to hearing from you!<br />
2 | EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />
6 amazing<br />
agritourism<br />
experiences 8<br />
Azerbaijan<br />
Grand Prix 20<strong>22</strong> 14<br />
Baku<br />
for culture<br />
vultures<br />
18<br />
Must-visit towers<br />
and castles 28<br />
TEE OFF<br />
in Azerbaijan 34<br />
The unique cuisine<br />
of Nakhchivan 38<br />
Outdoor fun at Shahdag<br />
and Tufandag 42
SHARG<br />
BAZAAR<br />
DISCOVER AZERBAIJAN’S ORIENTAL SPIRIT<br />
PACKED WITH PRODUCTS AND ALIVE WITH<br />
ACTIVITY, BAZAARS HAVE LONG BEEN AT<br />
THE H<strong>EA</strong>RT OF DAILY LIFE IN AZERBAIJAN.<br />
YOU’LL FIND THEM IN EVERY CORNER OF<br />
THE COUNTRY, RANGING FROM JUST A<br />
FEW STALLS SELLING FRUIT AND VEG TO<br />
ENORMOUS PLACES WITH SOUVENIRS,<br />
CRAFTS AND EVEN PETS. VISITING IS A<br />
FUN WAY TO DISCOVER LOCAL FOOD<br />
AND CULTURE – AND PRACTISE YOUR<br />
BARTERING SKILLS!<br />
IN BAKU, A UNIQUE BAZAAR IS ABOUT TO<br />
REOPEN AFTER A MAJOR RENOVATION.<br />
SHARG BAZAAR (<strong>EA</strong>STERN BAZAAR) IS<br />
NO LONGER JUST AN EYE-CATCHING<br />
MONUMENT OF SOVIET MODERNISM BUT<br />
ALSO A MODERN-DAY MANIFESTATION OF<br />
THE SILK ROAD – A SYNTHESIS OF FOOD,<br />
CRAFTS AND MUSIC TO STIMULATE ALL<br />
THE SENSES.<br />
Architectural<br />
icon<br />
The original Sharg Bazaar was<br />
designed in 1979 by the famous<br />
architects Uruzmag Yarinovsky<br />
and Pavel Revazov and opened<br />
in 1982. It featured a series of octagonal<br />
cupola-shaped buildings<br />
set around a central yard and<br />
was widely regarded as a masterpiece<br />
of Soviet modernism for<br />
its harmonious mix of socialist<br />
severity and Oriental curves, so<br />
much so that it became the first<br />
Azerbaijani building to be nominated<br />
for the Aga Khan Award for<br />
Architecture in 1989. However,<br />
over time it deteriorated and<br />
restoration was required, which<br />
began in 2018.<br />
4<br />
| EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />
EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 5
Fantastic<br />
food<br />
The new Sharg Bazaar has kept<br />
faithfully to the original design<br />
but includes many modern<br />
touches. The 9,000m 2 area now<br />
comprises three large domes<br />
and 13 smaller ones, each of<br />
which has its own attractions<br />
for visitors. Many are food-related:<br />
In addition to separate<br />
bazaar sections selling fruit<br />
and veg, sweets, spices and<br />
dried fruits and souvenirs,<br />
there’s a food court with<br />
Vietnamese, Japanese, and of<br />
course the national cuisine,<br />
plus chefs who prepare meals<br />
in front of your eyes. There’s<br />
also a traditional teahouse,<br />
contemporary cafes and a<br />
restaurant serving Turkish and<br />
Azerbaijani dishes.<br />
Plenty of<br />
culture<br />
But it’s not just a world of<br />
enticing tastes and aromas.<br />
Other domes host an events<br />
area with performances of<br />
national music and dancing,<br />
as well as a handicrafts<br />
zone where you can witness<br />
Azerbaijani masters weaving<br />
their magic on carpets, hats,<br />
pottery and painting, and even<br />
participate yourself in masterclasses.<br />
Elsewhere, you’ll find<br />
spaces devoted to jewellery,<br />
household items, antiques and<br />
national costumes. Overall,<br />
it's a journey into Azerbaijan’s<br />
Oriental spirit.<br />
And while you're there...<br />
Located just up the road from Sharg Bazaar is the city’s famous Yashil Bazaar, which is chockfull<br />
of the freshest produce from all around Azerbaijan. Fruits, dried fruits, vegetables, dairy<br />
products, meats, fish, herbs and tea are just some of the mouthwatering goodies you can taste<br />
and buy here. In particular, don’t miss local specialties like pomegranates, honey, saffron, sturgeon<br />
and caviar.<br />
Location: The Sharg and Yashil bazaars are in close proximity on Khatai Avenue, Baku.<br />
6 | EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />
EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 7
6<br />
Yashil Chay<br />
Since Azerbaijan’s first tea bushes were<br />
planted in Lankaran in 1912, tea has<br />
turned into a symbol of the south, with<br />
Lankaran and neighbouring Astara now<br />
home to a number of tea plantations. A<br />
great one to visit is Yashil Chay ("Green<br />
Tea" in English) in the village of Istisu,<br />
which has 70 hectares of tea plantations<br />
and makes over 30 different types of<br />
tea, including lemon, feijoa, rosehip,<br />
ginger, peppermint, thyme and others.<br />
There is also a Tea Museum, guest house<br />
and restaurant serving Lankaran’s popular<br />
local cuisine. Visitors can take a<br />
tour and discover the secrets of making<br />
Azerbaijan’s finest tea.<br />
www.yashilchay.az<br />
Contact the Lankaran DMO<br />
to arrange a visit:<br />
lankaran@tourism.gov.az;<br />
+994 25 255 4843<br />
amazing<br />
agritourism<br />
experiences<br />
BLESSED WITH A RICH BIODIVERSITY, AZERBAIJAN<br />
PRODUCES A WIDE RANGE OF DELICIOUS FOOD<br />
PRODUCTS, FROM FRUITS AND VEGETABLES PACKED<br />
WITH FLAVOUR TO SUPERB MOUNTAIN HONEY.<br />
INCR<strong>EA</strong>SINGLY TOURISTS CAN ENJOY EXPERIENCING<br />
HOW THESE PRODUCTS ARE PRODUCED FIRSTHAND<br />
AT FAMILY-RUN FARMS AND BUSINESSES. FROM<br />
T<strong>EA</strong> L<strong>EA</strong>F GATHERING TO TROUT FISHING, SUPERB<br />
AGRITOURISM EXPERIENCES AWAIT IN SCENIC<br />
CORNERS OF THE COUNTRY.<br />
8 | EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />
EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 9
Zagatala Trout<br />
Fish Farm<br />
Hidden amid fabulous forest in the<br />
village of Magov, Zagatala region, the<br />
Zagatala Trout Fish has been breeding<br />
high-quality rainbow trout since 1979.<br />
Tourists can enjoy an eco tour and food<br />
tasting, during which you’ll discover<br />
the ins and outs of trout breeding, with<br />
professional fish breeders guiding you<br />
through the entire process. Afterwards,<br />
you can taste the farm’s products at<br />
the onsite restaurant which serves a<br />
selection of fried and smoked trout.<br />
Additional activities, available through<br />
prior arrangement, include catching<br />
your own dinner, which will be prepared<br />
by the farm’s chefs, and outdoor fish<br />
cooking and painting masterclasses,<br />
available between May and September.<br />
Contact the Sheki DMO<br />
to arrange a visit:<br />
sheki@tourism.gov.az;<br />
+99424 244 6095<br />
Honey House<br />
Near the rustic village of Lekit, Gakh<br />
region, this is a bee farm spanning 15<br />
hectares. The family business keeps 300<br />
colonies of bees and produces a wide<br />
range of honey-based products. As part<br />
of its mission to educate future generations<br />
of beekeepers, it also stages a<br />
range of apicultural workshops and has<br />
even organised a small open-air museum<br />
demonstrating ancient methods of<br />
beekeeping. In particular you’ll learn<br />
about an endangered local wild beekeeping<br />
tradition known as Tekne, which<br />
uses a hollow wooden log to produce<br />
Caucasian mountain honey, and you can<br />
try the dark honey that results from it.<br />
IG: @apidelta.aridan<br />
+99455 610 00 34<br />
+99470 640 00 34<br />
Or contact the Sheki DMO<br />
to arrange a visit:<br />
sheki@tourism.gov.az<br />
+99424 244 60 95<br />
10 | EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />
EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 11
Bio Garden<br />
This is a peaceful oasis in the village of<br />
Oryet, a few kilometres from the city of<br />
Sheki, where a huge range of organic fruits,<br />
nuts and flowering plants from around the<br />
world are grown in picturesque orchards<br />
with views of the Caucasus Mountains. The<br />
eight-hectare territory is packed with over<br />
4,000 trees. Visitors can enjoy guided tours<br />
of the orchards, learn about local cultivation<br />
methods and pick fruits to purchase. You can<br />
also browse trout, chicken and honey farms<br />
and relax by a peaceful lake with superb<br />
views of the distant mountains. On top of<br />
that, there is a restaurant serving meals<br />
made from seasonal local ingredients.<br />
IG: @biogarden.az<br />
+99450 264 99 90<br />
Or contact the Sheki DMO<br />
to arrange a visit:<br />
sheki@tourism.gov.az;<br />
+99424 244 6095<br />
Chabiant<br />
winery<br />
Situated amid gorgeous<br />
countryside in the Ismayilli<br />
region, Chabiant is a great<br />
place to discover local<br />
winemaking as it has a<br />
particularly strong focus on<br />
growing local grape varieties.<br />
It is one of the top modern<br />
wineries in the country,<br />
producing an excellent<br />
range of wines from international<br />
and (especially)<br />
local grapes. Tours are<br />
available including visits to<br />
the vast cellar, production<br />
facilities and vineyards.<br />
In September, you can<br />
also take part in the grape<br />
harvest and related festivities.<br />
On warm evenings,<br />
excellent food and wine<br />
is served at the poolside<br />
restaurant. And throughout<br />
the year you can enjoy<br />
fabulous views of the<br />
vineyards rolling over the<br />
hills towards the Greater<br />
Caucasus Mountains.<br />
www.chabiant.az/en<br />
IG: @chabiantwinery<br />
+99451 700 32 <strong>22</strong><br />
For more great wineries<br />
to visit, see<br />
azerbaijan.travel<br />
12 | EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />
EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 13
Action-packed<br />
Don’t miss the<br />
Azerbaijan<br />
The inaugural F1 race in Azerbaijan, which<br />
took place in 2016 under the banner of the<br />
European Grand Prix, saw Mercedes driver<br />
Valtteri Bottas clocking a new top speed<br />
for an F1 car (378km/h). But the race really<br />
came to life over the next two years, in 2017<br />
and 2018, when crashes, quarrels and unexpected<br />
winners meant that both events<br />
were voted “race of the season” by F1 fans.<br />
The 2020 race, postponed to 2021 due to the<br />
COVID-19 pandemic, once again produced<br />
another new winner in Sergio Perez of Red<br />
Bull.<br />
Grand<br />
Prix 20<strong>22</strong><br />
Since debuting in 2016, the Azerbaijan Grand<br />
Prix has proved itself one of the best races of the<br />
Formula 1 season. Last year’s race took place<br />
without spectators due to the COVID-19 crisis yet<br />
still managed to produce a fantastic spectacle,<br />
full of talking points and surprises. And given the<br />
unique challenges posed by the Baku City Circuit,<br />
this year promises to be no different.<br />
Fantastic track<br />
What makes the Azerbaijan Grand Prix so<br />
unique and unpredictable is the track. At<br />
just over 6.003km, the Baku City Circuit is<br />
the second longest circuit in F1. It’s also F1’s<br />
fastest street circuit with drivers comfortably<br />
reaching speeds of 360km/h along the over<br />
2km-long straight along Neftchilar Avenue.<br />
Moreover, many of the 20 turns are sharp,<br />
especially around Baku’s Old City, which<br />
leaves little room for error. So skill, discipline,<br />
teamwork and fortune are more important<br />
than car speed.<br />
14 | EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />
EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 15
A stunning<br />
spectacle<br />
Designed by German engineer Hermann<br />
Tilke, the leading track designer in F1,<br />
the Baku City Cir-cuit is an exhibition<br />
of Azerbaijan’s vibrant capital. Weaving<br />
around the city centre, it takes in its wonderful<br />
contrasts of east and west, ancient<br />
and modern. Spectators can admire the<br />
12th-century walls of the Old City along<br />
with elegant streets like Istyglaliyyat built<br />
at the turn of the 20th centu-ry which are<br />
lined by an eclectic mix of architecture.<br />
The long finishing straight runs parallel<br />
to the tree-filled Seaside Boulevard and<br />
passes landmarks including the mysterious<br />
Maiden Tower and So-viet-era<br />
Government House.<br />
Race winners<br />
2016 - Nico Rosberg (Mercedes)<br />
2017 - Daniel Ricciardo (Red Bull)<br />
2018 - Lewis Hamilton (Mercedes)<br />
2019 - Valtteri Bottas (Mercedes)<br />
2021 - Sergio Perez (Red Bull)<br />
Coming soon<br />
Baku is looking forward to welcoming back<br />
F1 fans for this year’s event, which takes<br />
place on the weekend of 10-12 June. Events<br />
on track will include F1 practice sessions,<br />
the qualifying session, an F2 race and the<br />
Azerbaijan GP. All of this will be accompanied<br />
by an entertainment programme, which<br />
will be scaled back this year due to continuing<br />
COVID-19 uncertainties. A broad range of<br />
tickets are available, from general admission<br />
to grandstand.<br />
To find out more about<br />
the race, the city of Baku<br />
and purchase tickets, see<br />
bakucitycircuit.com<br />
16<br />
| EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />
EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 17
BAKU<br />
FOR<br />
CULTURE<br />
VULTURES<br />
A major cultural hub of the Caucasus and<br />
Caspian regions, Baku has everything from<br />
one-of-a-kind museums to hidden theatres.<br />
Here is a list of recommended places for<br />
culture lovers.<br />
18 | EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />
EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 19
1. Icherisheher<br />
3. The Marionette Theatre<br />
Icherisheher<br />
(Old City)<br />
Museum of<br />
Miniature Books<br />
Marionette<br />
Theatre<br />
Heydar Aliyev<br />
Centre<br />
The UNESCO-listed Old City, the historical<br />
core of Baku, has enough to keep you interested<br />
for days. The maze of narrow streets<br />
is home to countless cafes, restaurants,<br />
museums, monuments and galleries. The<br />
two major attractions are the Maiden Tower<br />
and Shirvanshahs’ Palace, but don’t miss<br />
hidden gems like the Marionette Theatre<br />
and Vagif Mustafazade House Museum.<br />
Hidden within the narrow alleys of the<br />
Old City (Icherisheher) is a small museum<br />
containing the largest collection of miniature<br />
books in the world. Driven by a huge<br />
passion for tiny books, the museum’s<br />
creator, Zarifa Salahova, has spent over<br />
30 years amassing her unique collection<br />
of over 5,600 books published in 66 countries.<br />
Among them is the world’s smallest<br />
book, measuring just 2x2mm!<br />
Baku’s beloved Marionette Theatre has its<br />
roots in the 1980s, when it was established<br />
by the stage director Tarlan Gorchu. The<br />
theatre moved to its location, a 19th-century<br />
building in the Old City, in 2016. Since<br />
then it has been putting on two marionette<br />
performances – Leyli and Majnun and<br />
Arshin mal alan (The Cloth Peddlar), both<br />
by the great Azerbaijani composer Uzeyir<br />
Hajibeyli – and become a favourite place<br />
for locals and visitors.<br />
An icon of Baku’s 21st-century skyline, this<br />
stunningly flowing and futuristic structure<br />
was designed by the world-famous architect<br />
Zaha Hadid. The wonderful curves of<br />
the building’s exterior blend seamlessly<br />
with the spacious interior to represent an<br />
eternal cycle and a place of shared ideas<br />
open to everyone, regardless of gender,<br />
race or origin. Inside you’ll find several<br />
excellent exhibitions and museums.<br />
20 | EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />
EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 21<br />
2. The Museum of Miniature Books<br />
4. The Heydar Aliyev Centre
1. The Carpet Museum<br />
3. The National Art Museum<br />
Carpet<br />
Museum<br />
Housed in a striking building designed in<br />
the shape of a rolled-up rug, this unique<br />
museum has three exhibition halls unravelling<br />
the beauty of Azerbaijan’s ancient<br />
carpet-weaving heritage. There are seven<br />
collections to explore covering pile carpets;<br />
flat-woven carpets; carpet products; artistic<br />
metalwork; pottery, glass, wood and<br />
paper; textiles, clothing and embroidery;<br />
and jewellery. In 2010 Azerbaijan’s carpet<br />
art was recognised as an intangible cultural<br />
heritage of humanity by UNESCO.<br />
Opera and<br />
Ballet Theatre<br />
The fabulous Opera and Ballet Theatre building,<br />
performed mainly in the Gothic style with<br />
hints of Modern, dates to 1910 and is famous<br />
for being constructed in just 10 months. It is<br />
closely connected with the development of<br />
opera in Azerbaijan, which began with Uzeyir<br />
Hajibeyli’s Leyli and Majnun (1908), the first<br />
opera in the Muslim East. Today you can<br />
watch a range of performances, from local<br />
ballets like 1001 Nights (Fikret Amirov) and 7<br />
Beauties (Gara Garayev) to Guiseppe Verdi’s<br />
opera La traviata.<br />
National<br />
Art<br />
Museum<br />
The National Art Museum is housed in two<br />
stunning mansions built during Baku’s Oil<br />
Boom period and contains a collection of<br />
over 19,000 exhibits, including paintings,<br />
handicrafts, antiques and other rare items of<br />
national and global culture. There are about<br />
3,400 paintings to admire by Azerbaijani,<br />
Russian and Western European artists, as<br />
well as beautiful examples of Azerbaijani<br />
miniatures, na-tional clothes and carpets.<br />
YARAT<br />
Contemporary Art<br />
Centre<br />
The not-for-profit contemporary art organisation<br />
YARAT is an epicentre of emerging Azerbaijani<br />
artistic talent. Named after the Azerbaijani word for<br />
“create,” the organisation regularly hosts thoughtprovoking<br />
exhibitions, together with educational<br />
workshops, film screenings and talks featuring<br />
top local and international artists and filmmakers.<br />
YARAT has various venues around the city, but this<br />
is the main one, housed in a former ship maintenance<br />
warehouse on the Caspian waterfront.<br />
<strong>22</strong> | EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />
EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 23<br />
2. The Opera and Ballet Theatre<br />
4. Yarat Contemporary Art Centre
The fascinating ways<br />
Azerbaijan celebrates<br />
NOVRUZ<br />
ONE OF AZERBAIJAN’S MOST<br />
IMPORTANT HOLIDAYS, NOVRUZ<br />
CELEBRATES THE COMING OF<br />
SPRING AND IS INSCRIBED ON<br />
UNESCO’S REPRESENTATIVE LIST<br />
OF THE INTANGIBLE CULTURAL<br />
HERITAGE OF HUMANITY. THE ACTUAL<br />
HOLIDAY TAKES PLACE ON THE<br />
VERNAL EQUINOX, 20-21 MARCH,<br />
BUT PREPARATIONS BEGIN A MONTH<br />
IN ADVANCE. HERE ARE SOME OF<br />
AZERBAIJAN'S FASCINATING NOVRUZ<br />
TRADITIONS AND RITUALS.<br />
24 | EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />
EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 25
Celebrating the elements<br />
Azerbaijan is a rare place where nature’s four elements come<br />
together: water – the Caspian Sea, fire – the burning mountain<br />
of Yanardag, earth – the rocks of Gobustan; and wind<br />
– Baku, “the city of winds.” On each of the four Tuesdays<br />
(known as Charshanba) before Novruz, one of these elements<br />
is celebrated. It’s believed that on the first still waters start to<br />
move, on the second bonfires are kindled, on the third a warm<br />
breeze brings life to water and fire, and on the last trees sprout<br />
new leaves and spring finally begins.<br />
Delicious food<br />
Traditional meals are cooked at Novruz. The main festive dish<br />
is plov, or pilaf. A beautifully decorated tray, or khoncha, with<br />
samani (green sprouting wheat) placed in the centre, is filled<br />
with nuts, candles, treats and sweets. The sweets and pastries<br />
have an ancient significance: the round, yellowish goghal represents<br />
the sun, the crescent-shaped shekerbura symbolises<br />
the moon, and pakhlava signifies both the sky and the stars.<br />
Symbols of life<br />
Samani, green sprouts of wheat seeds, is an important symbol<br />
of the Novruz celebration. It is an essential decoration<br />
at the holiday meal representing the revival of nature.<br />
People also believe that growing samani will bring abundance,<br />
wellbeing and prosperity to their family in the coming<br />
year. Every family grows their own, but small shops,<br />
bazaars, and even modern supermarkets sell samani in the<br />
lead-up to Novruz.<br />
Rituals for young people<br />
Novruz is especially exciting for young people as it features<br />
many games, performances and rituals. One of them is the<br />
“ear divination” game: Young people, especially girls, take<br />
a cup of water, a mirror and a key, make a wish and approach<br />
their neighbours’ doors to discover whether their<br />
wish will come true in the next year. Placing their ear to<br />
the door, they secretly listen in to conversations within and<br />
interpret the first word they hear in relation to their wish.<br />
That's why it's customary to talk positively during Novruz.<br />
Festival of fire<br />
National holidays usually emerge from a people’s spiritual<br />
world and beliefs, and Novruz is often linked to Zoroastrianism<br />
for its multiple links to fire. One of the main rituals during<br />
Novruz is jumping over a bonfire. Each house or neighbourhood<br />
makes their own and young and old people alike jump<br />
over them to banish their troubles and purify their souls for the<br />
new year.<br />
Making peace<br />
Novruz is not just a time for celebration, food and fun. It’s also<br />
a time for love, peace and equality. People who have fallen out<br />
with each other during the year are supposed to forgive and<br />
renew their relationship, while relatives and neighbours visit<br />
each other and exchange gifts. It brings together different sections<br />
of the population, strengthening mutual understanding<br />
and social cohesion. One of the golden rules of Novruz is that<br />
people should never lie, swear or gossip – they shouldn’t do<br />
anything bad, in other words.<br />
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EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 27
AZERBAIJAN IS HOME TO COUNTLESS CASTLES, FORTS<br />
AND FORTIFIED TOWERS WHICH STAND AS MONUMENTS<br />
TO DIVERSE AND DRAMATIC PAGES IN THE COUNTRY’S<br />
HISTORY. RANGING FROM SILK ROAD WATCHTOWERS TO<br />
STRONGHOLDS OF THE KARABAKH KHANATE, <strong>EA</strong>CH HAS<br />
A FASCINATING STORY TO TELL, SO LET’S TAKE A LOOK<br />
AT WHICH TO VISIT.<br />
Must-visit<br />
towers<br />
and<br />
castles<br />
Shirvanshahs’ Palace<br />
Occupying the highest spot in Baku’s charming Old City is the former residence<br />
of the powerful Shirvanshah dynasty. Constructed in the 15th century, the<br />
complex features a palace, Divankhana, mosque, mausoleum, hammam, gates<br />
and water reservoir and is considered one of the finest examples of medieval<br />
Azerbaijani architecture. It has been a museum-reserve since 1964 and is a<br />
key part of the Icherisheher UNESCO World Heritage site.<br />
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Mardakan<br />
Castle<br />
This 12th-century castle is<br />
located in the coastal village of<br />
Mardakan. The quadrangular<br />
stronghold was erected to honour<br />
a victory of Shirvanshah<br />
king Akhsitan I and served as<br />
a shelter, defence and observation<br />
point. The height of the<br />
main tower is <strong>22</strong> metres; you<br />
can climb up and enjoy great<br />
views at the top. This is one of<br />
two castles in Mardakan which<br />
in the past formed part of a<br />
network of observation and<br />
defensive forts spanning the<br />
Absheron Peninsula. Others still<br />
exist in the villages of Ramana<br />
and Gala.<br />
30 | EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />
Chirag Gala<br />
Believe it or not, in Azerbaijan<br />
there was once a defensive<br />
wall similar to the Great Wall of<br />
China. It began at the sea north<br />
of the Absheron Peninsula and<br />
stretched for many kilometres<br />
up into the mountains, culminating<br />
at 1,246m at the mysterious<br />
watchtower of Chirag Gala.<br />
Dating from the 4th-5th centuries<br />
AD, this tower, whose name<br />
means “Lamp Tower,” was used<br />
for defence and signalling purposes<br />
and protected the paths<br />
of the Silk Road passing through<br />
Azerbaijan. When an enemy<br />
approached, a fire was lit at the<br />
top of the castle and was visible<br />
for miles around.<br />
Sumuggala<br />
An icon of the historic<br />
village of Ilisu, Gakh<br />
region, this three-storey<br />
defensive tower<br />
was built in the 17th or<br />
18th centuries (sources<br />
differ) when the<br />
village was the centre<br />
of the Ilisu Sultanate,<br />
a semi-independent<br />
khanate. The rectangular<br />
two-toned tower was<br />
used to defend against<br />
imperial Russian forces<br />
during the Caucasian<br />
War. Sumug-gala is also<br />
synonymous with the<br />
popular Soviet film Don’t<br />
Worry, I’m With You!,<br />
an adventure comedy<br />
about two circus performers.<br />
Today it houses<br />
a small museum on the<br />
Ilisu Sultanate which is<br />
open only in summer.<br />
EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 31
Perigala<br />
Fortress<br />
Located 15km from the<br />
small city of Zagatala,<br />
this extraordinary<br />
fortress is carved into<br />
the cliff face at a height<br />
of 300m near the village<br />
of Chardakhlar.<br />
Historians have concluded<br />
that Perigala was<br />
built during the 3rd-5th<br />
centuries AD under<br />
the ancient state of<br />
Caucasian Albania. The<br />
castle is made of limestone<br />
brick and consists<br />
of three rooms and a<br />
window, and occupies<br />
an area of 30m 2 . To<br />
reach it requires special<br />
climbing equipment and<br />
a professional guide, but<br />
you can admire it from<br />
a distance in Yukhari<br />
Chardakhlar village.<br />
Alinja<br />
Castle<br />
Dubbed by some as “the Machu<br />
Picchu of Azerbaijan,” this is<br />
a recent reconstruction of a<br />
mountaintop fortress dating<br />
from the 8th century in the<br />
Julfa region of Nakhchivan. The<br />
castle overlooks the village of<br />
Alinja in the valley below and<br />
was famed for its invincibility –<br />
it took 14 years for the mighty<br />
Mongol ruler Tamerlane to conquer<br />
it in 1401. Centuries earlier<br />
it had housed the treasury of<br />
the state of the Atabays. About<br />
2,000 steep steps lead up to<br />
it. The climb is exhausting but<br />
worth the effort for the spectacular<br />
views!<br />
Shusha<br />
Fortress<br />
The hilltop city of Shusha is<br />
the pearl of Karabakh and<br />
Azerbaijan’s cultural capital.<br />
Surrounding the city’s historical<br />
centre is an 18th-century fortress<br />
built by Panah Ali Khan to<br />
help him govern the Karabakh<br />
Khanate (1748-18<strong>22</strong>). Its construction<br />
was supervised by the<br />
famous poet and vizier, Mollah<br />
Panah Vagif, whose mausoleum<br />
is another landmark of Shusha.<br />
The fortress’s location on a<br />
plateau between 1,300m and<br />
1,600m above sea level surrounded<br />
by rocky cliffs made it<br />
nearly impregnable.<br />
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TEE OFF<br />
IN AZERBAIJAN<br />
GOLF IS NOT THE FIRST THING YOU WOULD ASSOCIATE WITH<br />
AZERBAIJAN, BUT THAT DOESN’T M<strong>EA</strong>N GOLFERS WON’T HAVE A<br />
WONDERFUL TIME HERE. THERE ARE TWO FABULOUS GOLF CLUBS<br />
PROVIDING A FANTASTIC CHANGE OF SCENERY FOR ANYONE<br />
SEEKING NEW COURSES AND THE OPPORTUNITY TO DISCOVER A<br />
NEW COUNTRY.<br />
AS THE CLUBS ARE LOCATED WITHIN A FEW HOURS’ DRIVE OF<br />
<strong>EA</strong>CH OTHER, YOU CAN <strong>EA</strong>SILY COMBINE ROUNDS AT BOTH.<br />
MOREOVER, DR<strong>EA</strong>MLAND’S LOCATION ON BAKU’S OUTSKIRTS<br />
ENSURES <strong>EA</strong>SY ACCESS TO THE CAPITAL’S ATTRACTIONS AND<br />
NIGHTLIFE.<br />
34<br />
| EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />
EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 35
NATIONAL<br />
GOLF CLUB<br />
AZERBAIJAN<br />
DR<strong>EA</strong>MLAND<br />
The Dreamland golf course is an<br />
18-hole manmade masterpiece designed<br />
by leading landscape architect<br />
Cynthia Dye which provides<br />
a premium tournament golf experience<br />
in the Caucasus with a refreshing<br />
Mediterranean feel. It was<br />
designed to include all the intricacies<br />
of golf while still being very<br />
playable.<br />
The beautifully manicured course<br />
is decorated with native olive trees<br />
which lend it a lovely local feel. The<br />
course is relatively flat, which helps<br />
beginners. On the other hand, the<br />
abundance of large bunkers and<br />
water features, in addition to Baku’s<br />
frequent and infamous winds, present<br />
serious obstacles for more experienced<br />
golfers.<br />
Dreamland has a superb clubhouse<br />
with restaurants, cafes<br />
and a golf shop. It is in fact a large<br />
www.dreamlandgolfclub.com<br />
complex which also includes a hotel,<br />
shopping mall and fitness centre.<br />
Another unique feature is the<br />
Dreamland Golf Academy, a stateof-the-art<br />
training and practice<br />
facility.<br />
A comprehensive range of lessons<br />
are available at the Academy,<br />
where world-class teaching is fully<br />
focused on improving technique<br />
and efficiency. Lesson packages include<br />
individual, group and junior<br />
lessons, as well as TPI-specific and<br />
technology-focused lessons. Full<br />
details are available on the club’s<br />
website.<br />
Located in the stunning countryside<br />
of Guba in north-east<br />
Azerbaijan, the Azerbaijan<br />
National Golf Club is nestled<br />
amid natural forests<br />
near the stunning Caucasus<br />
Mountains. Designed by Jon<br />
Hunt from International Golf<br />
Design, it was the first 72-<br />
par 18-hole golf course to<br />
appear in Azerbaijan. And<br />
during the summer of 2014,<br />
less than two months after it<br />
opened, the club hosted the<br />
Azerbaijan Challenge Open,<br />
Azerbaijan’s inaugural professional<br />
event.<br />
Positioned within 75 hectares<br />
of idyllic Azerbaijani<br />
nature, the course features<br />
beautifully undulating fairways<br />
lined by apple trees and<br />
dotted with deep bunkers<br />
and lakes, creating plenty of<br />
challenges. However, it looks<br />
harder than it plays, so less<br />
accomplished golfers can also<br />
enjoy it.<br />
The excellent clubhouse,<br />
meanwhile, has luxurious<br />
locker rooms, a pro shop and a<br />
restaurant serving great food<br />
and drink with magnificent<br />
views of the course. In addition,<br />
there is a practice zone<br />
with putting and chipping<br />
areas along with a driving<br />
range. Golf lessons are available,<br />
with a one-hour session<br />
with a pro costing 50 AZN.<br />
Details of lesson packages are<br />
on the club’s Facebook page.<br />
Another bonus is being able<br />
to stay at the fabulous onsite<br />
Quba Palace Hotel.<br />
www.facebook.com/gubagolfclub<br />
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EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 37
1<br />
ORDUBAD<br />
OMELETTE<br />
The unique<br />
cuisine<br />
One of the must-taste<br />
dishes in Nakhchivan is a<br />
large omelette traditionally<br />
cooked in the historic<br />
town of Ordubad. It looks<br />
like a puffy cake and is<br />
made by whisking together<br />
about two litres of butter<br />
and 18-20 eggs in a pot or<br />
saucepan. A sweet sauce<br />
of golden honey and ginger<br />
is then added. The dish is<br />
usually cooked on special<br />
occasions such as birthdays<br />
and weddings.<br />
of Nakhchivan<br />
Nakhchivan is a beautiful and little-explored<br />
region of south-west<br />
Azerbaijan which is separated from<br />
the mainland. There are many<br />
reasons to visit, such as the breathtaking<br />
landscapes and ancient historical<br />
monuments. Another is the<br />
distinctive local cuisine, reflecting<br />
the region’s climatic diversity and<br />
rich flora and fauna. If you go, here<br />
are some of the dishes and delicacies<br />
to look out for.<br />
2<br />
ARZUMAN<br />
KOFTE<br />
This is the biggest and heaviest of all<br />
the kofte (Turkish meatball) meals in<br />
Azerbaijani cuisine – too much for just<br />
one person. The dish consists of a full<br />
chicken stuffed with a boiled egg and<br />
covered with a mix of minced beef and<br />
fatty mutton, which is all rolled into a<br />
massive meatball. This is then cooked<br />
in a broth for 20-30 minutes before<br />
being served with chopped herbs, vegetables,<br />
boiled potatoes, sumac and<br />
lavash bread.<br />
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EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 39
3<br />
NAKHCHIVAN<br />
L AVA SH<br />
Lavash flatbread, included in the<br />
UNESCO Representative List of<br />
Intangible Cultural Heritage, is one of<br />
Azerbaijan’s national types of bread<br />
and holds a particularly special place<br />
in the cuisine of Nakhchivan. Women<br />
in the region have been preparing it on<br />
a saj (rounded frying pan) since time<br />
immemorial. They also dry it and keep<br />
it for winter, adding water before serving<br />
it. A number of other breads, such<br />
as fatir, kombe, dastana and chippa, are<br />
also popular in Nakhchivan.<br />
4<br />
CHOCHE<br />
Also known as “koke,” choche is<br />
another of the first dishes that<br />
comes to mind when talking<br />
about Nakhchivan cuisine. It is<br />
usually made from walnuts, but<br />
fillings like beans, peas, potatoes<br />
and lentils can also be used.<br />
Chocha is always available in<br />
the pastry stores of Nakhchivan.<br />
The pastries are easy to carry,<br />
making them an ideal snack if<br />
you get hungry during your visit.<br />
5<br />
ORDUBAD DELICACIES<br />
The Ordubad region in particular stands out for both its<br />
stunning scenery and numerous food delicacies. The<br />
region is famous for its local fruits and medicinal herbs,<br />
from which locals prepare a variety of treats, such as<br />
jams, sweets and pickles. The dried fruits, delicious<br />
lemons, walnut, thyme and eggplant jams, herb gutabs<br />
(stuffed pancakes) and alana (peaches or pears stuffed<br />
with walnuts and sugar) are must-try products if you<br />
visit here.<br />
Şərəfə!<br />
Cheers!<br />
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EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 41
Outdoor<br />
fun<br />
at<br />
Shahdag<br />
and<br />
Tufandag<br />
Nestled in the<br />
Greater Caucasus<br />
Mountains of<br />
northern Azerbaijan<br />
there are two<br />
fantastic mountain<br />
resorts, Shahdag and<br />
Tufandag, offering<br />
perfect pistes,<br />
fabulous hotels<br />
and opportunities<br />
aplenty to boost<br />
your wellbeing. Both<br />
resorts are within a<br />
few hours’ drive of<br />
Baku and beyond<br />
the fantastic winter<br />
sports options have<br />
a host of outdoor<br />
activities available in<br />
summer.<br />
42 | EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN<br />
EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 43
Shahdag Mountain Resort<br />
Located on slopes adjacent to Mt Shahdag in the north-eastern Gusar region,<br />
this is Azerbaijan’s oldest and largest ski resort which has an ever-expanding<br />
network of well-groomed pistes and four ski-in, ski-out hotels equipped with<br />
luxury spas along with a variety of cafes, bars and restaurants. Activities such<br />
as snow tubing, snowshoeing and ice skating can also be enjoyed in winter. In<br />
summer, meanwhile:<br />
Zip-lining<br />
Keen to combine the exhilarating feeling of<br />
soaring through the air with breathtaking views<br />
of the Shahdag mountains? This thrilling ride<br />
begins with a safety briefing before climbing up<br />
to a platform high above the resort. From there<br />
you descend across the hillside with incredible<br />
views of the resort and surrounding areas at<br />
speeds of up to 20-25km/h.<br />
Adventure park<br />
Harness up and get ready to explore! The resort’s<br />
adventure park is designed for all ages. You<br />
can climb up ropes, swing across bridges and<br />
test your nerves on a high wire. This is a great<br />
activity for the whole family to enjoy. Safety<br />
equipment including helmets is provided.<br />
Alpine coaster<br />
Shahdag recently<br />
launched the first<br />
mountain coaster in the<br />
Caucasus which allows<br />
adrenaline-seekers<br />
aged 3 and over the<br />
unique opportunity of<br />
soaking up the magnificent<br />
mountain views<br />
while whizzing down a<br />
thrilling 1,670m track<br />
on sleds at speeds of<br />
42km/h.<br />
Jeep tours<br />
You can explore the immense scenery around the<br />
resort from the comfort of a Jeep Wrangler. Shahdag<br />
customises routes based on your trip desires which<br />
allow you to conquer high elevation mountain passes,<br />
cross shallow streams, snap photos of wildflowers<br />
and stop in remote mountain villages.<br />
Camping<br />
Shahdag offers great venues for a summer camping<br />
trip and will provide you with all the necessary amenities<br />
for camping in the mountains. This is a great<br />
way to escape the summer heat, forget the daily<br />
grind and recharge mentally in the beauty of nature.<br />
Segwaying<br />
Segways are two-wheeled,<br />
self-balancing, electric vehicles<br />
fitted with rugged tires to help<br />
you traverse the hills at ease.<br />
The resort has a number of<br />
supervised trails to choose from<br />
and its local guides will take<br />
you high into the mountains<br />
for breathtaking views of the<br />
resort.<br />
And that’s not all! You can<br />
also enjoy archery, trotinette,<br />
paintball, a water<br />
slide and a kids’ entertainment<br />
centre.<br />
Discover more at<br />
shahdag.az<br />
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EXPERIENCE AZERBAIJAN | 45
Tufandag Mountain Resort<br />
Further west across the Greater Caucasus mountain chain in the Gabala region,<br />
Tufandag provides more great ski pistes, this time descending through<br />
forest, as well as the luxurious Qafqaz Tufandag Mountain Resort Hotel, and<br />
the Chalet Steak & Winehouse mountaintop restaurant. Non-ski activities like<br />
tubing and snowmobile tours are also available in winter, and the cable car<br />
runs year-round, taking you to a height of 1920m. And in summer:<br />
Trekking<br />
Keen to explore some of the best scenery in the<br />
Greater Caucasus on foot? Tufandag’s trekking tours<br />
take you along some of the best local paths to scenic<br />
spots like the Sleeping Beauty Peak and Duruja<br />
Waterfall. This is a great way to boost your health<br />
while exploring the great natural beauty of Gabala.<br />
ATV tours<br />
Experience the wonderful scenery around<br />
Tufandag from the seat of a quad bike! This<br />
guided tour takes you from the resort through a<br />
scenic valley to the peaceful village of Duruja.<br />
The ride lasts about 20 minutes and covers<br />
4km. Riders must be 18 or over, however there<br />
are also special ATV tours for children.<br />
THIS SUMMER<br />
REJUVENATE YOUR<br />
ENERGY AT SHAHDAG!<br />
Shahdag Mountain Resort is the first and the largest mountain tourism spot of Azerbaijan.<br />
and winter. With its budget category to world class 5 star hotels, hiking, camping and<br />
dozens of other outdoor sport activities, exceptional gastronomic experience and<br />
award-winning OVDAN SPA that will refresh your soul, Shahdag Mountain Resort promises<br />
an unforgettable summer getaway full of memories.<br />
Mountain swing<br />
This is the newest attraction at Tufandag which,<br />
located on a mountain peak called Sleeping Beauty,<br />
combines the thrills and excitement of swinging<br />
with sensational views of mountain peaks and<br />
forested slopes beneath your feet. There are two<br />
swings to choose from (7m and 10m high) available<br />
to riders aged 14 and over, as well as an observation<br />
point to soak up the scenery.<br />
Discover more at<br />
www.tufandag.com<br />
KP29, Gusar – Laza motoroad, Azerbaijan<br />
1110, +994 12 310 1110<br />
www.shahdag.az<br />
reservations@shahdag.az<br />
shahdag.resort<br />
shahdagresort
ExperienceAZE<br />
experienceazerbaijan<br />
podcast.azerbaijan.travel<br />
azerbaijan.travel<br />
Scan the QR code to download the guide.<br />
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