KNITmuch Issue 15

KNITmuch

poncho · knitted toys · double-knitted pocket scarf · hats · mittens

KNITTING

with

Lion Brand Yarn

Wool Ease

Feels like Butta

Hue + Me

...to K, is to

Issue 15

Knitted

fabrics texture

designs

How to knit

tidy edges

Designing

a hat using

elements from

a poncho

Double-knitted

pockets

BABY knits

collection

Revisiting

Seed Stitch

&

Moss Stitch

KNITTING LION BRAND WOOL EASE MAKES WARM AND EASY CARE PROJECTS

KNITmuch

...to K, is to

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF, ART DIRECTOR

Carla A. Canonico

Carla@KNITmuch.com

ADVERTISING SALES

John De Fusco

John@KNITmuch.com

PUBLISHER

A Needle Pulling Thread

PHOTOGRAPHERS

John De Fusco, Carla A. Canonico, Contributors

BLOGGERS/CONTRIBUTORS

Fiona Stevenson

fionastevensondesigns

Cindy O'Malley

cindooknits.blogspot.com

Cynthia MacDougall

cgknitters.blogspot.com

GRAPHIC DESIGN

Carla A. Canonico

Carla@KNITmuch.com

Sondra Armas

Sondra@KNITmuch.com

SOCIAL MEDIA and WEB

Sondra Armas

Alejandro Araujo

WEBSITE / BLOG : KNITmuch.com

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Follow us on Twitter : @KNITmuchmag

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EDITORIAL

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work and your proposed project.

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©2022 KNITmuch. All rights reserved. Issue 15.

ISSN 2368-5913.

No part of this publication may be reproduced without

written permission from the publisher.

All designs, patterns, and information in this magazine are

for private, non-commercial use only, and are copyrighted

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www.KNITmuch.com

Visit and download our free ebook:

Cynthia MacDougall's

Knitting Essentials!

2 KNITmuch | issue 15

KNITmuch

6 Knitted Fabrics Texture Designs

10 Feels Like Butta yarn knits up soft beyond belief!

12 The Beginner Knitter Skills Builder - Step 1: I Wanna Knit a Blanket

14 The Beginner Knitter Skills Builder – Step 2: Pompom Baby Hat

16 The Beginner Knitter Skills Builder – Step 3: Baby Booties

18 The Beginner Knitter Skills Builder – Step 4: The Cuddly Caterpillar

22 Knitting Lion Brand Wool Ease makes warm and easy care projects

23 Knitting swatches to determine needle size and to measure gauge

24 Knitting a warm hat with patterns from the Poncho

26 Are they hand warmers or mittens … you decide

29 Knitting the Galway Poncho with confidence

32 Smooth and speedy knitting with Hue + Me

33 Seed Stitch and Moss Stitch and Hue + Me yarn

35 How to knit tidy edges

36 Double-knitted pockets add functionality to a knit scarf

39 A double-knitted pocket scarf with Hue + Me – part 2

contents

KNITmuch | issue 15

3

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editor's

letter

Complex knitting patterns are a lot of fun to

make, they are exciting, and they improve my

knitting skills. It’s such

a relief and satisfaction

however to get to the

bind off, much like the

finish line at a marathon!

In between challenging

knitting patterns, I love to

chill on my next project

and choose a super easy

knit. Knits like simple

shawls, scarves, and hats

are a good choice. Baby

knits too are a perfect

choice they are bite-size

projects even expert

knitters love to make for

that mindless quick fix!

In this issue are some of

the most adorable baby

knits that satisfy that fix.

Fiona Stevenson pulled

together a collection of baby knits that are

perfect for gift giving. These baby knits are

followed by adventurous projects based on

The Galway Poncho, a free downloadable pattern

designed for Lion Brand Fisherman’s Wool. Cindy

O’Malley shows you how

she took elements of the

Galway Poncho to design

hand warmers/mittens, and

my favorite, a hat! I will knit

that hat by the time winter

is back this year! Check out

her toasty knitting patterns.

To round out the content

of this issue are some

technical articles about

knitting smooth edges

and going over the moss

and seed stitches. And, in

preparation for next winter,

Cynthia MacDougall shares

her pattern for the doubleknitted

pockets as an

element of a collared scarf.

From challenging to easypeasy,

I hope you will enjoy

this KNITmuch issue!

Wishing you happy knitting adventures!

Cheerfully,

follow me

KNITmuch | issue 15

5

Knit Together

with Cynthia MacDougall

Knitted Fabrics Texture Designs

Photo by Mike Guilbault.

Cynthia MacDougall

Canadian Guild of Knitters

PO Box 20262

Barrie, Ontario L4M 6E9

705.722.6495

1.866.245.5648 (CGK-KNIT)

www.CGKnitters.ca

blog: cgknitters.blogspot.com

ravelry name: theloveofknit

Fabrics are an integral part of human life.

They touch us almost every minute of

every day, from our facecloth in the morning

to the welcome crispness of our bedsheets

at night. Most of the fabrics that surround

us are woven on looms using warp and weft

threads. Knitting is different. Although often

described as a form of ‘off loom’ weaving, knitters

use one strand of yarn or thread to ‘weave’

their magic. Knitting gives us unique opportunities

to create our own fabrics.

In addition to being able to knit fabrics in

shapes that can be assembled to fit the human

form, knitters can create fabrics that offer textural

and colour diversity. The possible permutations

are almost limitless.

The first knitted fabric a beginning knitter

makes is often the humble garter stitch, followed

closely by stocking stitch. Knit and purl stitches,

however, can be combined to make hundreds of

all-over patterns. Depending on the arrangement

of the knit and purl stitches, the fabrics can draw

in horizontally, such as in ribbing, or expand

horizontally, such as in seed stitch.

Ribbing is often used for the edges of sweaters

to give them structure and durability, and to

keep drafts from wafting up sleeves or hemlines.

Ribbing can also be used to create an allover

fabric. The entire back of the Hummingbird

Garden Vest (featured in the May 2008 issue of

Knit Together) was made in a knit 2, purl 2 rib.

This is a great pattern to use to make a comfortable

garment that snugs the body nicely.

Broken ribs can also be used to make a knitted

fabric. The River Rib Toque and Boot Cuffs,

featured in the Festive 2010 issue of A Needle

Pulling Thread, use a knit 3, purl 3 rib broken

every 3 rows to produce the fabric shown in the

photo. This same design could be used to create

a fabric for a matching vest. [For more information

about broken ribs, see Cynthia’s article about

broken ribs in the Festive 2010 issue.]

Another knit-purl pattern is the chequerboard.

Seed stitch is the tiniest variation of

the chequerboard. Next up is Double Seed

stitch. The Anything Blanket, is an example of a

chequerboard of alternating stocking stitch and

reverse stocking stitch blocks. The example in

the photo uses four knit stitches and four purl

stitches that are ‘switched’ every four rows.

Any number of knit and purl stitches switched

any number of rows can be used, but when

working with chequerboards of more than four

stitches, additional rows may be required to

keep the checks square. [The Anything Blanket

is a free pattern available from Canadian Guild of

Knitters’website, www.cgknitters.ca.]


Photos courtesy of Cynthia MacDougall.

Knit/purl chevrons, like the one in the

photo below, create a pattern in which the

stitches continue horizontally across the

row. Chevrons can also be made by using

increases and decreases. When this method

is employed the stitches ‘tilt’ away from

the increases and toward the decreases.

This can be used effectively to make a

decorative, scalloped edge on sleeves or

cuffs and is particularly noticeable when

the chevrons are worked in coloured

stripes.

The chevrons in this photo are created by

making a pattern of knit stitches on a on

a reverse stocking stitch ground. In this

sample, the lines of stitches go straight

across each row.

When increases are 'stacked' upon each

other, the stitches are 'pushed' away from

the increase. Stacking the decreases upon

each other 'pulls' the stitches in and keeps

the stitch count consistent on every row.

The result is that the stitches tilt toward

the decreases. This affects the cast on edge

of the piece by making small scallops or

zig-zags. In this sample, closed increases

(M1) were used to make the left panel,

and open increases (yo) were used to make

the other three panels. The two left panels

have repeats of 12 stitches, and the two

panels on the right have 8 stitch repeats

to show how a difference in the number of

stitches in a panel affects the overall look.

Charles Voth’s Bunbury’s Trellis vest,

featured in ANPTmag Issue Fall 2011,

is an example of knit and purl stitches

combined with twisted stitches, mock rib

columns, and an interesting stitch that increases

the number of stitches on one row

and decreases them back over several rows

to create a fabric with several elements.

The Pinstripe Vest by Robin Hunter, also

featured in the Fall 2011 Issue, uses slip

stitches to create a fabric. In it, she uses slip

stitches every 4 stitches to create a contrasting

colour stripe.

A common use of slip stitches is on the heel

flap of socks. Slipping the odd-numbered

stitches on one row, and the even-numbered

stitches on the next right-side row

makes the fabric more dense, which makes

it wear longer than plain stockinette stitch.

Like most knitting patterns slipped stitch

designs can be varied by striping two or

more colours on alternating rows.

By ‘floating’ the contrasting yarn across

the front of the work, yet another effect

is achieved. The following photo has the

lighter colour carried in front of the darker

colour to create ‘floats’. Several rows later,

the ‘floats’ are picked up and knitted into

the fabric. Although this example is shown

in two colours, this design can be worked

effectively with only one colour. Another

option for this stitch would be to use a

variegated colour for the background colour

and a solid colour for the ‘floats’.

Slip stitches can be used to make very

dense fabrics, suitable for hard-wearing

garments that need more structure, such

as skirts and jackets. Linen stitch is an

example of a good ‘suit fabric.’

Ideas for knitted fabrics can be found in

numerous places, from old knitting pattern

books to compilations of knitted patterns

produced by various publishers. My personal

favourites are the works of Barbara

G. Walker. Her Treasury of Knitting Patterns

is a staple in the library of many knitting

designers. She wrote three additional volumes,

referred to affectionately as ‘treasuries’,

and many of the patterns from her

books have been adapted for use in other

knitting pattern guides. Other sources of

all-over fabric ideas include the Harmony

Guides and the Vogue Stitchionary series.

Every so often, I’ll grab a stitch dictionary

and some scrap yarn and try out a pattern

that appeals to me. In addition to finding

out whether the pattern has potential for

a future project or design, I learn about

various yarns, whether the pattern works

better with a larger-than-expected size of

needle, and sometimes learn a new technique.

Other observations include what

the stitch pattern does to the structure

of the fabric. The pattern might cause

the fabric to pull in, expand horizontally,

compress vertically, or make either an airy

fabric or a dense one. It might also show

that a pattern would benefit from using

larger or smaller needles.

Knitters have the ability to create hundreds

of diverse patterns all from a simple

knit stitch and a simple purl stitch. With

these fabrics we can touch many lives. z

Sources:

A Treasury of Knitting Patterns by Barbara G. Walker.

KNITmuch | issue 15

7

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KNITmuch | issue 15

9

Feels Like Butta yarn

knits up soft beyond belief!

Fiona Stevenson

Feels Like Butta lives up to its name!

Normally, I don't like to do a straight up yarn

review, but every once in a while, there's a yarn

that just blows me away. Feels Like Butta from

Lion Brand Yarns is one of these exceptions. Like

the name suggests it really is buttery soft! It's silky

and squishy at the same time, so it's just perfect

for knitted baby blankets and clothes. I find myself

also contemplating on the kind of knit stuffed

animal I would like to make. I love it when a yarn

engages my imagination, and Feels Like Butta has

done just that.

Beyond just how it feels, the stitch definition is

glorious! I'm working a simple knit stitch for this

week's knit baby blanket project (I Wanna Knit

a Blanket by Lion Brand), and I keep staring at

how crisp the stitches are. It almost looks like

I'm doing a special pattern like seed stitch, but

it's just simple garter stitch. I'm really looking

forward to trying cables with Feels Like Butta. I

think they're gonna pop!

Just so you know how extraordinary it is for me to

love this yarn so much, I'll make a confession to you.

I'm a yarn snob. I use almost exclusively natural fibers.

There was a time when acrylic would never cross the

threshold of my yarn stash, but I've discovered acrylic

has its uses. Because it's cost effective, I can complete

larger projects, like blankets, without blowing the

yarn budget. Most acrylic is machine washable, so I

use it for projects that are being knit for friends and

family who don't want to provide extra special care

like hand washing.

Photos by Fiona Stevenson


I make baby knits exclusively out of acrylics or

superwash yarns. Dads and moms will know that

baby clothes, blankets, and stuffies are forever

covered in... let's not say what. They need durability

to endure frequent washings. So, in the case of

these kinds of knits I prefer acrylic yarn. Feels Like

Butta doesn't make acrylic feel like a sacrifice,

because, well, it feels like butta! I think I've found

my new go-to yarn for infant/toddler knits.

I'm taking advantage of all the benefits of Feels Like

Butta yarn. I’m also helping beginner knitters get

out of the scarf or dishcloth trap with four beginner

projects that will make one great baby shower gift

set. Starting with the aptly named I Wanna Knit a

Baby Blanket pattern by Lion Brand Yarns I will add

three more projects, all free downloads, that will be

perfect to help beginner knitters build their skills.

Each project will lead into the next starting with the

simplest flat garter stitch knit and ending with a cute

knit-in-the-round plushy. All you need to know for

the first project is the knit stitch, and purl stitch is

used in the next two projects, so if you know only

how to do these two stitches then you’re good to go!

By the end of this feature, you can learn to make all of these.

There will be information and tutorials to guide you

from baby blanket to a pompom hat then booties,

and finally a cuddly little caterpillar. Each project

builds on the next, giving beginner knitters all the

skills required to take their knitting to the next level...

and next...and next. I’ll get you started on the I

Wanna Knit a Baby Blanket with instructions on YO

increases, K2tog decreases, color changes, and

finishing details.

The loft of this yarn makes the stitch definition out of this world!

KNITmuch | issue 15

11

The Beginner Knitter Skills Builder

Step 1 I Wanna Knit a Blanket

The I Wanna Knit a Blanket baby

project is a great super easy

knit. I chose this project first

then realized there was going

to be lots of yarn left over from

the five balls it requires. I hate

to waste yarn, and that got

me thinking, what else could a

beginner knitter make with the

rest? On a search through the

Lion Brand patterns I discovered

a lot of options, but I chose these

four patterns for the learning

opportunities they offered. All

these knits will be made with just

five balls of Feels Like Butta yarn!

Here are the skills developed for

each project:

• I Wanna Knit a Blanket

• Yarn Over (YO) (instructions in

pattern)

• Knit two together decrease

(K2tog)

• Changing colors

• Sewing in ends

• PomPom Baby Hat

• Rib Stitch

• Changing colors


(K2tog)

• Sewing seams

• Pompom making

• Booties

• Make one (M1)

• Changing colors

• Carrying yarn


(K2tog)

• Sewing seams

• Cuddly Caterpillar

• Knitting in the round

• Make one (M1)


(K2tog)

• I cord (instructions in pattern

“Antennae”)

The patterns are listed from

easiest to hardest but are all

beginner friendly. My hope is

that new knitters can go from

#1 to #4 building on their skills

as they go. Or find a project

that matches their skill level and

dive into it. You’ll see that some

techniques are written in the

Lion Brand pattern. For those

techniques that are not, I will

add tutorials in my posts. Let’s

get started with I Wanna Knit a

Blanket.

This very easy pattern is knit from

corner to corner using increases,

yarn overs, and decreases, knit

two together.

You’ll need the following

supplies:

• Feels Like Butta Yarn

» Color A - 2 balls color #100

White

» Color B - 2 balls color #101A

Pink

» Color C - 1 ball color #150D

Charcoal

• US 5 [3.75mm] circular knitting

needle, 32” or 36”

• yarn needle

Although the blanket is knit on

a circular needle, it’s actually knit

flat not in the round. Using a

circular to knit flat just allows for

easier knitting as the blanket gets

larger. You can choose to use

very long straight needles if that’s

all you have on hand.

Yarn Over (YO) Increases

You’ll be using yarn overs to

increase the width of your

blanket and create the lovely

decorative lace at the border

of the blanket There are written

instructions in the pattern for the

yarn over stitch, and here is a

video tutorial as well:

https://youtu.be/HAzRbBNH5UE

Knit Two Together (K2tog)

Decreases

Knit Two Together is as simple as

it sounds, so often it doesn’t get

explained in patterns. I remember

in the beginning struggling to

figure out the things that the

pattern assumed I knew, so I’ll

add this simple instruction for

your benefit. When a pattern says

Knit Two Together (abbreviated

as K2TOG or K2tog) you will be

making two stitches into one. Put

the tip of your right-hand needle

into the next two stitches on the

left-hand needle, and knit these

two stitches together. Here’s a

video tutorial to help if you are a

visual learner:

https://youtu.be/nVOPcIVoOko


Now you are ready to start! This

blanket is knit from corner to

corner like this:

For the first half you’ll be doing

yarn over increases, and the

second half you will do knit two

together decreases. The yarn

over increases are easy but

watch out for the decreases on

the second half of the blanket.

Because we want to keep that

nice yarn over lace at the border

of the blanket, but still decrease

there will be two K2tog stitches.

Why? The YO still increases a

stitch each row. If we only did

one decrease stitch the stitch

count on the row would remain

even: +1 (YO) and -1 (K2tog) =

0. But we need the blanket to

decrease by one stitch per row

on the second half to create

the square shape we want, so

we need a total decrease of

one stitch on each row like this:

-1 (K2tog) and +1 (YO) and -1

(K2tog) = -1. Knitting is a lot of

math, but don’t be afraid the

pattern has done all the hard

work for you. If you follow the

instructions as written, you will

easily get ‘er done.

Color Changing

The next technique that may

be new to a beginner knitter is

changing colors:

https://youtu.be/MZKNuDQNlmM

Again, this is a skill that most

knitters don’t even think about,

but if you're new to the craft you

may never have done this before.

In this pattern sometimes they

will tell you to cut the color of

yarn you are working with, and

sometimes they will say not to

cut it. If they say to cut it make

sure you cut the strand about 4

inches long, so you can sew it in

at the end. With the new color

make a tail of about 3-4 inches

then simply start knitting with

it. The edge stitch will be a little

loose, so once you’ve knit a few

stitches in you can do a single

tie of the old color strand with

the new color, but don’t tie a full

knot. When you sew these ends

in knotting them may make your

edge a little uneven. You don’t

have to worry that your blanket

will unravel, because the 4-inch

lengths that are leftover will be

sewn in to secure them.

Weaving in Ends

It’s very hard to describe in words

how to sew (weave) in ends, so I

think a video tutorial works best. I

hope this is helpful:

https://youtu.be/p05xKbQ0-R0

Look! You’ve got a beautiful

new baby blanket! I loved this

pattern and this yarn so much

that I’m planning on buying a

lot more Feel Like Butta, holding

3 or 4 strands together, using a

much larger knitting needle, and

knitting myself a big blankie.

I Wanna Knit a Baby Blanket knits up super soft with

Feels Like Butta yarn.

I Wanna Knit a Baby Blanket pattern free from

Lion Brand.

I Want to Knit a Blanket is knit on the bias working from

corner to corner like the graphic above.

Almost done...just a few ends to weave in!

KNITmuch | issue 15

13


Step 2 Pompom Baby Hat

After you finish your I Wanna Knit a Baby

Blanket there will be lots of yarn for more baby

projects. Let’s start with Lion Brand Yarnss

PomPom Baby Hat.

The PomPom Baby Hat is a free download, then

we can get knitting together!

Closing the top of the hat Step 1: Pass yarn needle

through remaining stitches as you drop them off

the knitting needle.

This infant hat is knit flat starting with the striped

brim in ribbing then moving into a textured broken

rib pattern for the rest of the hat. This simple

patterning gives the hat a lovely texture. Since the

hat is knit flat instead of in the round, you’ll need to

sew up the seam to finish it. On the top is a sweet

little pompom which is easy to make, and is the

perfect flourish to this baby hat.

The Feels Like Butta yarn colors for my PomPom

Baby Hat are as follows:

Col A: pink

Col B: gray

Col C: white

Brim

Cast on using Col A

Rows 1 and 2: Col A

Rows 3 and 4: Col B

Rows 5 and 6: Col C

Rows 7 and 8: Col A

Rows 9 and 10: Col C

The rest of the hat is knit in Col B.

You don’t need to follow my color scheme and can

choose the color stripes that you like.

I used gray for the main part of the hat, because

that was the color of yarn I had the largest amount

left after the blanket was completed. Now, if you

have never done 1x1 Rib Stitch before (that’s the

stitch used for the brim) I suggest you watch this

video tutorial to get you on the right track:

https://youtu.be/O6njIAmq-nY

Once you’ve completed the brim, you’re ready to

move onto the main part of the hat. Switch to Color

B, and begin to work the simple broken rib pattern

that is a 8 row repeat found in the BODY OF HAT

section. Don’t forget to knit 3 rows of Stockinette

Stitch in between the two rib sections! If you don’t

know what Stockinette Stitch is, it's the pattern that

is created by knitting on the right side and purling

on the wrong side of your work. This is explained

fully in the pattern. Continue repeating the same 8

rows until the desired length is achieved. The last

row of the hat is K2togs.

When you are ready to finish the top of your hat

you will cut your yarn leaving a 6” strand of yarn.

Pass this tail through the eye of your yarn needle

then slowly pass the needle through each remaining

stitch on your knitting needle dropping the stitches

off as you go. Pull tight to close the top of the hat

(See photos above).


Closing top Step 2: Tighten the yarn to close the top

All our hat needs now is a pompom!

Pompoms are easy to make with these Clover

PomPom Makers!

The next step is to sew up the side of the hat. I used

the 6” tail of gray yarn to sew up the side of the hat

until I got to the brim. You’ll need to use a mattress

stitch to sew up the body of the hat. Here is a great

video to show you how:

Mattress Stitch Video 1:

https://youtu.be/46IUyefCkXA

If you’re having trouble seeing how to do the

mattress stitch here’s a video by Very Pink that is

slow motion:

Mattress Stitch Video 2:

https://youtu.be/wQnAfTmI0iA

Once you get to the rib section you’ll need to sew

together the sides. It really doesn’t matter what

color of yarn you use, because it will disappear into

your seam as you work. Here is a good video to

show you how to stitch up the seam of the brim:

Sewing Together Rib stitches video:

https://youtu.be/FkNP0gH2WAU

Sewing (also called “weaving”) in the ends is easy if

you follow along with these quick video tutorials:

Weaving in Ends in Ribbing video:

https://youtu.be/ohtv2fyd_lY

Weaving in Ends in Stockinette video:

https://youtu.be/v-p4qsiyuI8

Pompom makers are one of my essential knitting

tools. From the Clover PomPom Maker Set.

I used the second largest to make my pompom. I

alternated rows of pink and white yarn to make my

sweet puff! With the strands of yarn left over from

tying the pompom together at the center, I attached

it to the top of the hat by tying the ends around the

top stitches with a knot on the inside of the hat then

weaving in the ends. The bonus of a pompom is

that it covers the small hole left when you close the

top of the hat off. And it’s CUTE!

Here’s a very helpful video tutorial that shows how

to use these pompom makers:

Pompom maker video:

https://youtu.be/W7tb_9YKoMU

KNITmuch | issue 15

15


Step 3 Baby Booties

How cute are these!!! Are you ready to make baby booties?

Though Booties look more challenging, they are

easy with the skills you’ve already learned on the

baby blanket and hat, and just a couple simpler

techniques. It is knit flat then the sides and bottoms

of the slipper are sewn up to finish them. I used the

gray yarn for the foot of the boot then alternated 2

rows of white and two rows of pink 1×1 ribbing for

the cuff.

What You’ll Need

• Feels Like Butta gray, white, and pink yarn left

over from Tuesday’s baby blanket

• US 4 [3.5mm] and US 5 [3.75mm] needles

• stitch markers

• yarn needle

You’ll need some stitch markers to make up this

pattern. If you have never used stitch markers

before they are really simple. The Booties pattern

tells you where to place your markers. When you

come to a marker you slip the marker off the tip of

the left needle to the right needle and continue to

follow the next instruction in the pattern. If you’ve

never used stitch markers before I recommend

locking stitch markers like the orange one in the

photo below. If you accidentally knit in your stitch

marker, you can just simply open it like a safety pin

and slide the stitch marker out of your knitting.

The first new

technique you’ll

encounter in

this pattern is

a Make One

increase (M1).

The hardest part

of this when I

was a novice

Set up for success with Locking Stitch Markers.

knitter was

finding the strand between the stitches. I’m sharing

a quick video with you to help you, but simply if you

pull open the space between the last stitch worked

on the left needle and the next stitch to be worked

on the right needle, you will see a strand of yarn

between them. You will take the tip of the left-hand

needle, put it below this strand from front to back,

and pick it up as a new stitch. With your right hand

needle you’ll knit into the back of this stitch. If this

description is as clear as mud watch this video

tutorial to help you:

https://youtu.be/U3YAFIFgSf0

See how neatly the toe is formed with just a few

K2togs!

The next

technique is the

K2tog which

was taught

in Monday’s

post for the

baby blanket.

Make sure

you add your

stitch markers

according

to pattern

instructions. Magically as you do these decreases

the shape of the toe appears! It’s really fun to watch

it happen!


Once you’re finished the foot

section you’ll start working with

the white and pink yarns to

create the cuff. This section is

done in 1×1 ribbing. If you need

a refresher on that technique,

you can rewatch the video in

the post about making the

PomPom Baby Hat. As for the

color pattern in the bootie cuff,

I started with white, and did

four rows of white and four

rows of pink switching back and

forth between the two colors

until I had knit a total of 24

rows. There are two methods

of switching colors like this: cut

the strand at the end of each

section then add the new colour

or carrying the yarn up the side

as you color change. I prefer the

second method as it has a lot

fewer ends to weave to finish the

bootie. As you can see: photo

A shows the many strands left

by simply cutting the yarn at

every color change, and photo

B shows just a few strands left

to weave in after carrying the

yarn up the side. If you decide

to simply switch colors the

instructions on how to switch

them are in the previous post for

the I Wanna Knit a Baby Blanket.

If you’d like to learn how to carry

your yarn up the side, you can

watch the video:

https://youtu.be/N8r0_SVfGU0

To finish these booties, you’ll

need to bind off in pattern. That

means you’ll continue to knit

and purl in the ribbing pattern.

If you have forgotten how to

bind stitches, don’t panic! A lot

of newbie knitters struggle to

remember the bind off technique.

Quite simply you will knit one

stitch, purl the next stitch. Then

on the right-hand needle you will

have two stitches.

Photo A - cut strands

Photo B - carried strands

Photo 1 - Step one is stitching up 1x1 ribbing

Photo 2 - Step 2 is sewing up the foot.

You’ll pull the first stitch on the

needle (the stitch that was knit)

over the second stitch on the

needle (the purl stitch). There

should now be just one stitch on

the right-hand needle. You’ll go

on in the ribbing pattern, knitting

or purling one stitch, then pulling

the left stitch on the right-hand

needle over the right stitch. If this

doesn’t make sense watch this

video to help you through it.

1x1 Rib Bind Off:

https://youtu.be/2P-U4vXbuDA

Finally, you’ll need to sew up your

bootie. I chose to sew it from the

top of the cuff (photo 1) to the

back of the foot, and finally the

bottom of the foot (photo 2).

There you are, BOOTIES! Once

you’ve knit a pair of these you’ll

fall in love with how quick and fun

these are and may find yourself

knitting up many more. These are

wonderful to give away as gifts for

friends and family or your favorite

family outreach program. Or, like

me, use them to decorate your

favorite pet (tee hee).

Ready to work a little more magic with this super

soft Feels Like Butta yarn by Lion Brand?

KNITmuch | issue 15

17


Step 4 The Cuddly Caterpillar

It’s finally time to use Feels Like Butta by Lion Brand

Yarns to make the cutest Cuddly Caterpillar EVER!

Make sure to place and attach your eyes before

you finish the head!


Now we are knitting in the round

to make this free downloadable

pattern, Cuddly Caterpillar.

This stuffed toy is so perfect for

babies to cuddle.

What you’ll need

• 1⁄5 of a ball of Feels Like Butta

Yarn in pink and white and

gray

• US 5 [3.75mm] 32” circular

needle

• US 5 [3.75mm] DPNs (Optional

- see Icord section)

• a stitch marker (to mark the

start of your round)

• Black plastic safety eyes 6mm

• Crafter's Choice® Dry Fiber Fill

• yarn needle

How to knit in the round

Now, onto the knitty-gritty of

knitting in the round. There are

two main ways of knitting in the

round: DPN (double pointed

needle) knitting and Magic Loop

knitting. My preferred way of

doing in the round projects

is Magic Loop. There’s just

one singular circular needle

to manage. DPNs require 3-5

needles. Either technique works,

though, so I recommend you

move to DPNs if Magic Loop is

just too, uh...loopy. Everyone is

unique, so techniques are varied

to suit different kinds of knitters.

I suggest that you grab some

scrap yarn and practice knitting

in the round for a while before

jumping into the caterpillar

project. There are some increases

at the very beginning that may

be a little difficult if you haven’t

already developed some comfort

with knitting in the round.

I’m not going to give some

written instructions for Magic

Loop, because it is very hard to

explain without visuals. Instead

watch the video I’ve made on the

technique. It may take a few tries

to get it right. I think it took me

at least three attempts before the

technique clicked for me. Now

I could knit Magic Loop in my

sleep!

If for some reason the Magic

Loop technique just doesn’t

work for you try using DPNs and

following this video tutorial.

DPN video:

https://youtu.be/XqkIdJ3WSzA

Once you’ve practiced knitting

in the round until you’re

comfortable with either method,

you can cast on for the caterpillar.

I started with pink, and instead of

considering this the head, I made

it the bum. There are a bunch of

increases - first the knit front and

back stitches on the first round

then M1s on following rows. If

you have forgotten the M1 stitch,

quickly hop back to previous

Bootie post to rewatch the video.

If you need a reminder of the

K2tog stitch, you’ll find the video

on baby blanket post. In case

the instructions in the pattern

for knitting into the front and

back of the stitch is not clear to

you, here’s a quick video you can

watch:

KFB video:

https://youtu.be/-Eh-ieWIaM0

The result of the increases at

the beginning was a kind of star

or flower (I tried several times

to cast this on, always with the

same result) which I didn’t want

in the middle of my caterpillar’s

face. It was also convenient to

finish with the face to add the

eyes just before closing off the

project. Other than that change, I

knit the project as written except

for the colors.

The color changes went like this:

Segment 1 (Bum)

• Rounds 1-16: PINK

• Round 17: GRAY

Segment 2

• Round 1: GRAY

• Rounds 2-16: WHITE

• Round 17: GRAY

Segment 3

• Round 1: GRAY

• Rounds 2-16: PINK

• Round 17: GRAY

Segment 4

• Round 1: GRAY

• Rounds 2-16: WHITE

• Round 17: GRAY

Segment 5 (face)

• Round 1: GRAY

• Rounds 2-17 and final 3 rnds:

PINK

I think you’ll catch onto the

pattern after the first couple of

segments.

About the eyes

TAKE NOTE! Make sure you

attach the eyes before you close

up the face of the caterpillar. In

the pattern they give instructions

for crocheted eyes, but I wanted

to make my life a little easier by

using plastic safety eyes instead.

I chose plain black 6mm eyes

and placed them evenly on

either side of the head about 12

rows apart. I filled the head with

stuffing. Before closing the end

off, I placed the eyes. Pulling out

most of the stuffing, I pushed

the washers of the safety eye

onto the stems to lock them in

place. Then I finished stuffing the

head and closed off the end by

passing the yarn through the

remaining stitches and tightly

pulling it closed. Pass the needle

down through the stuffing, up

through a stitch, down through a

neighboring stitch, and through

the stuffing then out through

the back of the head. You can

just cut the yarn off close to the

fabric then stretch until the end

disappears into the body of the

stuffy. Here’s a video on how to

properly add the safety eyes. It

shows a method for adding a

stitched eyelid, but I didn’t use it.

Adding plastic eyes:

https://youtu.be/Tvr44q6TeaA

How to knit Icord

Ok, I know you’re exhausted

with all the learning, (though I

do hope you took lots of time

to rest and absorb each lesson!),

but there’s one last thing to learn

to complete your caterpillar. And

I really saved the best for last.

Icord stands for “Idiot Cord”. You

may remember making Icord by

cording when you were a kid. It’s

really fun to knit it, too! I used a

3.5mm needle and 3sts instead of

2 to make the antenna tightly knit

and more substantial, so they

would stand up a little more.

Fiona Stevenson

likeafox.ca/fiona-stevenson-designs.html

For each antenna you cast

on 3sts either on a DPN

(recommended) or your circular

needle.

Icord Instructions

1. Knit all sts.

2. Don’t turn your work but

slide all the stitches down the

needle to the right until they

are at the tip.

3. Taking the yarn from the farleft

side of your row, pull the

yarn snug then knit all 3sts.

4. Repeat Steps 1 and 2 until

you have the desired length

(2½”/6.5cm).

Finishing the knit Icord

antenna

Cut your yarn leaving a 4” strand.

With a yarn needle pass the yarn

tail through all the remaining

stitches and pull it through the

middle of the tube and out the

bottom to finish it. You can use

the tail coming out the bottom

to sew the antenna to the head.

Tie a little knot on the top end,

the one opposite to the yarn tail.

YOU DID IT!!!! I’m thrilled to

have brought you through this

journey from absolute beginner

to advanced beginner. Now, you

can set your sights on socks,

mittens, and sweaters. You

can dive into lace, cables, and

colorwork with confidence and

daring do. I’m proud of you!

You have a beautifully soft baby

set and knitting skills to share

with the world. I hope you have

enjoyed your adventures

KNITmuch | issue 15

19

Lion Brand Wool-Ease . Oxford Grey and Tawny Port

Knitting

Lion Brand Wool Ease

makes warm and

easy care projects

Cindy O'Malley

’ll be knitting with Lion Brand Wool-

Ease, which is a medium weight yarn

that blends the warmth of wool with

the ease of acrylic.

Available in 12 different colors that

include natural shades, heathers,

soft tones, and bold solids like

Tawny Port, Wool-Ease is an

extremely versatile yarn for making

afghans, sweaters, and accessories.

I’ll be knitting with Oxford Grey

and Tawny Port, which are two

of my favorite colors for winter

accessories.

I’m often asked by other knitters

for colors that are suitable for

men’s garments. I would definitely

recommend Oxford Grey as it’s

on the darker side of medium

that is great for menswear, but

not exclusively, as I like it too. I

love a good burgundy … both in

a stemmed glass and in yarn, and

Tawny Port is a lovely burgundy

color.

Each 3oz [85g] ball contains 197yds

[180m], with a recommended

knitting needle of US 8 [5.0mm]

= 18 sts x 24 rows = 4” [10cm] in

stocking stitch. The recommended

crochet hook is US J-10 [6.0mm]

= 3.2 sc x 16 rows = 4” [10cm].

The recommended gauge for

this medium weight (4) yarn is

applicable to an Aran weight, but I

discovered that it knits quite nicely

at a Worsted weight gauge of 20

sts = 4” [10cm].


Wool-Ease is a blend of 20%

Wool and 80% acrylic which

makes for easy care – machine

washable and dryable is perfect

for laundering those hats and

mittens that can come home

rather messy.

Wool-Ease in Oxford Grey is a deep grey heather color.

In a close up view of an individual

strand of Oxford Grey, you can

see the heathery tonal quality

of the yarn. It looks very wooIly,

but is actually quite soft to the

touch. Another knitter in one of

my knitting circles has an allergy

to wool and can’t knit with it. She

wanted to make a sweater for

her husband and decided to try

a wool acrylic blend. Much to

her surprise, she was able to knit

without it affecting her. That may

not be true for everyone with a

wool allergy, but it was a pleasant

surprise for her. Depending upon

how it affects someone, it may be

worth trying a smaller project like

a hat.

I wouldn’t normally reveal the

final project until final post, but

I'll make an exception. I’ll be

making the Galway Poncho with

Wool-Ease in Oxford Grey. This

pattern is rated for Experienced

Knitters, but it’s my belief that

the only way to become an

experienced knitter is to take on

new challenges.

If you feel intimidated by all

those patterns being used

together, don’t be. These posts

are all about smaller projects that

use some of the motifs and then

tips on how to work them all

together in a single project in the

hopes of replacing intimidation

with confidence.

The Galway Poncho is a free pattern designed for

Lion Brand Yarns.

Photos by Cindy O'Malley

Knitting swatches to determine needle

size and to measure gauge

Let's knit some swatches to

measure my gauge and needle

size that I’ll use on my projects,

I’ll be using 3 different needle

sizes to determine the gauge for

some of the pattern motifs.

For my first swatch, I cast on 26

sts, with a US 8 [5.0mm] needle,

knit 4 garter stitch rows, then

proceeded with a slipped stitch

edge and 2 garter sts at each

side, and stocking stitch for the

main field. My results were 18 sts

and 24 rows = 4” – Right on the

recommended gauge. Now for

the experiments.

For my second swatch, I wanted

to play around with a rib stitch

that combined one of the patterns

from the Poncho. I used a US 7

[4.5mm] needle and cast on 26

sts, maintained the slipped stitch

edge and 2 garter sts at each

side, but didn’t do garter stitch

rows at the top and bottom of

the swatch. I love the rib effect

it created, which can be a bit of

a challenge to measure stitch

counts, but I wanted to see how

it measured out when left natural.

The result of my 20 sts and 26

rows, without stretching out the

fabric was 3” wide by 4” high.

1st Swatch with US 8 [5.0mm] needles measured

in exactly at the recommended gauge.

2nd Swatch with US 7 [4.5mm] needle in a

twisted rib measured 3” x 4” without stretching.

3rd Swatch with US 9 [5.5mm] needle with

Patterns B and D from the poncho.

The poncho pattern calls for

22 sts and 22 rows = 4” [10

cm] in pattern with US 9 [5.5

mm] needle. There are a lot of

patterns used in the poncho so

I settled on using two of them in

my swatch to see what I’d get.

I wasn’t overly concerned since

it isn’t a fitted garment, but did

want to see the fabric it created

before I started the project.

Although my swatch didn’t

match the gauge, I did seem to

get about 6 sts and 6 rows =

1”. Perhaps if I had done all the

patterns together it would have

measured out more accurately,

but like I said, I wasn’t overly

concerned since it isn’t a fitted

garment. I was pleased with the

fabric so the US 9 [5.5mm] works

with the pattern motifs nicely.

For the last swatch, I went back

to the US 7 [4.5mm] needle to

make a stocking stitch swatch, I

found that it knit up rather nicely

to a Worsted weight gauge of 20

sts x 26 rows. The fabric is a little

denser which works out perfectly

for the project I have in mind.

From a picture standpoint, the

swatch looks exactly the same as

the 1st swatch.

I’m happy with the results of

my swatches and I’m ready to

proceed with my projects.

KNITmuch | issue 15

21


Knitting a warm hat with patterns

from the Poncho

I’m knitting a hat that uses a

few of the pattern motifs from

the poncho that I’ll be making.

Based on the results from knitting

swatches, I’ve determined the

needle size that I’ll use to make

the band and crown of the hat.

I’ll to use Tawny Port for the hat.

It’s a rich burgundy color that

should accentuate the pattern

motifs I’ve selected.

The hat band will be knit first

using two of the patterns from the

poncho, then stitches picked up

and knitted for the crown using

two other pattern motifs. The hat

band is worked flat, joined, and

the crown is worked in the round

using either double pointed

(dpns) or circular needles.

The pattern motifs I’m using

on the hat band are the 4/4RC

(4 over 4 right cross), which

is also known as a C8F cable

stitch, and 1/1RC (1 over 1 right

cross). The 4/4RC is performed

on the 5th row and every 10th

row afterwards while the 1/1RC

is performed on every right

side row, i.e., every 2nd row.

Sometimes, it can be a challenge

to count the rows to know if

you’re on the 8th or 10th row of

a cable pattern. An easy tip for

keeping track of your rows is to

use a removable marker to tag

the 1/1RC on the same row as the

4/4RC. This way, you only need

to count the number of 1/1RC

rows to know when it’s time to do

the 4/4RC.

Use a removable marker to tag the 1/1RC on the

same row as the 4/4RC.

As you can see from the

picture above, I opted to use a

provisional cast on to start my

hat band with the intention of

either grafting the ends together

with Kitchener stitch or using

a 3 needle bind off. I haven’t

had very good results in the

past when grafting in pattern

so I consulted with 2 of my

knitting buddies that are both

experienced knitters. Neither

of them have had good results

in the past and both ended up

doing a 3 needle bind off instead.

That’s what I ultimately did to join

the hat band but to be perfectly

honest, it was more trouble than

it was worth. It would’ve been

easier to just cast on and off and

seam the two ends together so

that’s the instructions I’m giving

in the pattern. Why complicate

it. But I must say that tagging the

1/1RC to count the rows for the

4/4RC made the job much easier.

The Hat Pattern

materials

yarn

• 3oz [85g] ball of

Wool Ease in Tawny Port

needles and hook

• US7 [4.5mm] crochet hook or

close in size

• US7 [4.5mm] knitting needles

• US8 [5.0mm] 16” circulars or

32” circulars for magic loop, or

dpns

• cable needle

notions

• stitch marker

• tapestry needle

finished measurement Fits a 20 –

22” head.

gauge

Band

6 rows = 1” in pattern on a US

7 [4.5mm] needle. Note the

row gauge is important to the

finished size. To make the hat

larger, use a larger sized needle.

Crown

20 sts = 4” in pattern on a US 8

[5.0mm] needle. To make the hat

larger, use a larger sized needle.

abbreviations

K = Knit

P = Purl

St(s) = Stitch(es)

PM = Place Marker

BOR = Beginning of Round

Rnd = Round

Dec = Decrease

kfb (knit in front and back) Knit

next st without removing it from

left needle, then k through back

of same st - 1 st increased.

CDD (Center Double Decrease)

Slip 2 sts knit-wise, then slip 1

st knit-wise and knit all 3 sts

together through the back - 2 sts

decreased.

1/1LC (1 over 1 left cross) Slip 1 st

to cable needle and hold in front

of work, k1, then k1 from cable

needle.

1/1RC (1 over 1 right cross) Slip

1 st to cable needle and hold in

back of work, k1, then k1 from

cable needle.


4 sts to cable needle and hold in


cable needle.

The Hat Band

With crochet hook and US 7

[4.5mm] needles, cast on 26 sts

and leave a long tail for seaming.

Set up Row: P3, K2, P2, K2, P8,

K2, P2, K2, P3.

Rows 1 & 3: K3, P2, 1/1RC, P2,

K8, P2, 1/1RC, P2, K3.

Row 2 and all even rows: Work

sts as presented; i.e., Knit

the knits and Purl the purls.

Row 5: K3, P2, 1/1RC, P2, 4/4RC,

P2, 1/1RC, P2, K3.

Rows 7 & 9: Same as Row 1.

Work these 10 rows 11 more

times.

Cast off in pattern, but do not cut

yarn.

With the tail, sew the band

together to form a circle.

Crown

With right side of the band

facing, pick up and knit 96 sts,

PM to mark BOR. Remember to

slip the marker on each round.

Knit 1 round.

Increase Rnd: *K5, kfb, repeat

from * to end of round. 112

sts

Set Up Rnd: *K8, P2, K4, P2,

repeat from * to end of

round.

Rnd 1: *K3, 1/1RC, K3, P2, 1/1LC,

1/1RC, P2; repeat from * to

end of round

Rnd 2 and all even rounds:

Work sts as presented; i.e.,

Knit the knits and Purl the

purls.

Rnd 3: *K3, 1/1RC, K3, P2, 1/1RC,

1/1LC, P2; repeat from * to

end of round

Repeat these 4 rounds 3 more

times.

Start Decreases:

Dec Rnd 1: *K3 K2tog, K3, P2,

1/1LC, 1/1RC, P2; repeat

from * end of round. 105sts

Rnd 2 and all even rounds: Knit.

Dec Rnd 3: K6, CDD, *K12, CDD;

repeat from * to last 6 sts,

K6. 91 sts



K5. 77 sts



K4. 63 sts



K3. 49 sts



K2. 35 sts


repeat from * to last st, K1.

21 sts

Dec Rnd 15: *CDD; repeat from

* to end of round. 7 sts

Cut yarn and draw through

remaining 7 sts to close up.

Weave in ends.

I’m very pleased with the end

result. Tawny Port was an

excellent choice for highlighting

the patterns of the hat. It also fits

really well, so I’m claiming it for

me. Think I’ll make another band

with the leftover yarn as it will

make a great headband – warm

and beautiful. That one I’ll give to

someone in their stocking.

Lion Brand Wool-Ease is available in 12 different

colors. I’ll be using Tawny Port for the hat.

The finished hat with Wool-Ease in Tawny Port.

KNITmuch | issue 15

23

Are they hand warmers or mittens

… you decide

Now I’m knitting a pair of hand

warmers with Tawny Port that

are a little on the unconventional

side.

I like to wear hand warmers

in the winter as it frees up my

fingers when working my phone,

or fishing change out of my

wallet or pocket; but, sometimes

my fingers get cold and I try to

draw them up inside. Walking

with hands in my pockets is not

safe as a stumble could result

in a bad fall. My solution is to

make them extra long so that I

can fold them back to expose

my fingers, and unfold them to

keep me warm.

The pattern motifs I’ll be using

include the 1/1RC that was used

on the hat, but also patterns D

& E from the poncho, which are

essentially the same pattern, but

one leans left and the other right.

Perfect -- I’ll use one on the left

hand and the other on the right.

The other technique used in

this pattern is M1L (Make 1 Left)

and M1R (Make 1 Right) which is

an increase method. Whenever

you see explanations for this

technique it instructs you to pick

up the bar between the stitches

from the row below from either

the front (M1L) or back (M1R).

If you look at the stitches on

your needle, the right leg of the

stitch is on the front and the

left leg is at the back. Normally,

you knit into the front stitch

unless instructed to ktbl (knit

through back loop) which twists

the stitch and makes it lean left.

When knitting a M1R or L, you’re

knitting into the left leg of the

stitch. When you pick up the bar

and put it on the left needle you

want to orientate the left leg of

the stitch to either the front of

your needle (M1R) or the back of

you needle (M1L) and knit into

it. By having the left leg on the

front of your needle and knitting

it, it makes the resulting stitch

lean right and when at the back

of needle, you’re actually doing

a ktbl resulting in a left leaning

stitch. Also, whenever you see

M1 (make 1), it’s the same as M1L.

On several occasions, I’ve heard

many a knitter trying to recall

how to do a M1L vs. M1R. I find it

easier to remember Right Front,

Left Back.

The Pattern

materials

yarn

• (1) 3oz [85g] ball of Wool Ease

in Tawny Port

needles and hook

• US7 [4.5mm] crochet hook or

close in size

• US7 [4.5mm] 16” circulars, or

32” circulars for magic loop, or

dpns knitting needles

• US6 [4.0mm] 24” circulars for

magic loop, or dpns

• cable needle

notions

• stitch marker

• scrap yarn to hold thumb sts

• tapestry needle

size Fits average woman’s hand

in width, custom fit in length.

gauge 20 sts and 26 rows = 4” in

stocking stitch on US 7 [4.5mm]

needles

abbreviations

K = Knit

P = Purl

K2tog = Knit 2 sts together

St(s) = Stitch(es)

PM = Place Marker

BOR = Beginning of Round

Rnd = Round

Inc = Increase

M1 = Same as M1L – increase 1

st

M1L = Make 1 Left – see

explanation above

M1R = Make 1 Right – see

explanation above

YO = Yarn Over – bring yarn to

the front of your work and knit

the next stitch

YRN = Yarn Round Needle –

bring yarn to the front of your

work under the needle, take it to

the back over the needle, then

bring it to the front and purl the

next stitch.

1/1LC (1 over 1 left cross) Slip 1

st to cable needle and hold in

front of work, k1, then k1 from

cable needle.





cable needle.


sts to cable needle and hold in


cable needle.


2 sts to cable needle and hold in


cable needle.


sts to cable needle and hold in


cable needle.




cable needle.

Pattern for Hand Warmer

Mittens

Pattern over 12 sts (Same as

Patterns D and E of Poncho)

Row 1: P4, 2/2RC, p4 – Right

Hand.

Row 1: P4, 2/2LC, p4 – Left Hand.

Row 2: P4, k4, p4.

Row 3: P3, 2/1RC, 2/1LC, p3.

Row 4: P3, k6, p3.

Row 5: P2, 2/1RC, k2, 2/1LC, p2.

Row 6: P2, k8, p2.

Row 7: P1, 2/1RC, k4, 2/1LC, p1.

Row 8: P1, k10, p1.

Cuff

Using the Crochet Cast on

method, cast on 36 sts. Place

marker (PM) to denote Beginning

of Round (BOR). Be sure to slip

the marker on each round. Join

in the round being careful not to

twist the stitches.

Rnd 1: *K2, p1; repeat from * to

end of round.

Rnd 2: *K2, p1, 1/1RC, p1; repeat

from * to end of round.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until

cuff measures 3” (18 rows), or

desired length.

Knit 1 round and proceed to

instructions for Right and Left

Hands.

Right Hand

Inc Rnd: K17, M1, k2, M1, knit to

end of round. 38 sts

Set up Rnd: K3, p4, k4, p4, k23.

Rnd 1: K3, p4, 2/2RC, p4, k3,

M1L, k2, M1R, k18. 40 sts


Work sts as presented; i.e.


purls.

Rnd 3: K3, (Pattern 3), k3, M1L,

k4, M1R, k18. 42 sts


k6, M1R, k18. 44 sts


k8, M1R, k18. 46 sts


k10, M1R, k18. 48 sts

Rnd 11: K3 (Pattern 3), k3, M1L,

k12, M1R, k18. 50 sts


k14, M1R, k18. 52 sts

Rnd 15: K3, (Pattern 7), k3, place

next 16 sts on a scrap piece

of yarn, K18.

Rnd 17: Continue working

rounds on remaining 36 sts

incorporating pattern rows

1 – 8 twice more.

Once all pattern rows have been

completed, continue to work as

follows until mitten length is equal

to the topmost knuckle: K3, P1,

K10, P1, K21. For my small hand,

this worked out to be 2 rows.

Begin 2x2 rib (beginning with K2)

until work measures to the tip of

the topmost fingernail – my hand

was 12 rows.

Final Row: *YO, K2tog, YRN,

P2tog; repeat from * to end of

round.

Cast off in 2x2 rib.

Left Hand

Inc Rnd: K1, M1, knit to last st,

M1, k1. 38 sts

Set up Rnd: K23, p4, k4, p4, k3.

Rnd 1: K18, M1L, k2, M1R, k3, p4,

2/2LC, p4, k3. 40 sts


Work sts as presented; i.e.


purls.

Rnd 3: K18, M1L, k4, M1R, k3,

(Pattern 3), k3. 42 sts

Rnd 5: K18, M1L, k6, M1R, k3,


Rnd 7: K18, M1L, k8, M1R, k3,


Rnd 9: K18, M1L, k10, M1R, k3,


Rnd 11: K18, M1L, k12, M1R, k3,

(Pattern 3) k3. 50 sts

Rnd 13: K18, M1L, k14, M1R, k3,


Rnd 15: K18, Place next 16sts on

a scrap piece of yarn, k3,

(Pattern 7), k3.

Rnd 17: Continue working

rounds on remaining 36 sts

incorporating pattern rows

1 – 8 twice more.

KNITmuch | issue 15

25

Join the yarn to the thumb stitches by making a

stitch from in between the two stitches below on

the hand.

The hand warmers in Tawny Port are complete.

Once all pattern rows have been

completed, continue to work

as follows until mitten length is

equal to the topmost knuckle:

K21, p1, k10, p1, k3.

Begin 2x2 rib (beginning with p2)

until work measures to the tip of

the topmost fingernail – my hand

was 12 rows.

Final Row: *YRN, p2tog, yo,

k2tog; repeat from * to end of

round.

Cast off in 2x2 rib.

Thumb

Remove scrap yarn from thumb

sts and place on needles.

Join yarn by making a st between

the two center sts of the hand

and place it on the right needle.

Knit to last 2 sts, k2tog – this

closes the gap between the hand

and thumb sts.

Continue to knit rounds until

thumb measures to the middle of

the knuckle on your thumb.

Switch to US 6 [4.0mm] needles

and knit two more rounds or to

the bottom of your thumbnail.

Work in K1, P1 Rib until thumb

measures to the top of your

thumb nail.

Cast off in 1x1 rib and fold rib

section down.

Weave in all ends.

Draw String Cord (make 2)

Cut a length of yarn

approximately 40” and secure

one end to a solid structure (e.g.,

Drawer Handle, Tap, etc.).

Twist the strand in the same

direction as the natural twist of

the yarn until it folds over onto

itself in a fairly tight twist.

Double it up and tie the open

end to secure the cord.

Weave it through the YO holes at

the top of the mitten, fold back

and make a bow.

My hand warmers are complete.

I love the pattern motif on the

back of the hands – left cross on

the left hand and right cross on

the right. I’m also very happy

with the ribbing on the cuff. It’s

not only pretty but it holds its

shape very well – it doesn’t over

stretch. If my fingers and thumb

get cold, I can easily unfold the

top ribbing sections to cover

them up and use the draw string

to close them like mittens. To

answer the question are they

hand warmers or mittens …

they’re both!


Knitting the Galway Poncho

with confidence

It’s time for the

Galway Poncho! I fell in love

with this pattern the moment

I saw it. What intrigues me

is all the pattern motifs used

together in harmony and

the oversized rib collar is

gorgeous. When I showed

it to other knitters, some of

them responded by saying

it was beautiful but felt they

couldn’t make. That was my

inspiration for this week’s

posts. There is only one way to

gain experience in knitting – by

trying new things.

Let's focus on how to

break down a seemingly

complicated pattern into

smaller manageable chunks,

thus turning intimidation into

accomplishment.

The Galway Poncho is a

free downloadable pattern

designed for Lion Brand

Fisherman’s Wool. The

specifications for Fisherman’s

Wool is 16 sts x 22 R on a US

9 [5.5mm] needle, but I’m

using Wool-Ease which is

rated at 18 sts x 24 R on a US

8 [5.0mm] needle. The pattern

gauge is significantly different

but through the on Day 2, I

was confident that Wool-Ease

was a good substitution. If

you’ve followed any of my

previous posts, I tend to always

personalize a stock pattern,

but not in this case. I love it

just the way it is. The only

change I’m making is the yarn

and color – I never make a

pattern in the color depicted.

The Galway Poncho made with Wool-Ease in

Oxford Grey is complete.

You can never have too many stitch markers.

Let’s get started.

The first tip is to

have lots of different

colored stitch

markers on hand.

You can never have

too many stitch

markers. They tend

to disappear on a

regular basis, or in

my household, it’s

a race against the

kitties to find them.

They always seem

to win, hence you

need lots.

If you look closely

at the picture

above, you can

see one of my

green markers that

the kitties got to

first. They chewed

through it making it

a removable marker

instead of a fixed

marker. If you don’t

have a collection

of different colored

markers then you

can use what you

have and tie on

a little piece of

yarn or thread to

distinguish it from

the other colors.

Just make sure it’s

visible to you as

KNITmuch | issue 15

27

Green = A, Purple = B, Blue = C & F, Pink = D & E, White (not shown) = Decrease

Pattern B (L), Pattern A (C), Pattern C (R)


you progress across the row.

This is how I used my markers:

Green – Pattern A

Purple – Pattern B

Blue – Pattern C & F

Pink – Pattern D & E

White – Decreases

You may be wondering why I used Blue for both

C & F, and pink for both D & E. Did I run out of

colors? On the contrary …. C & F are the same

pattern motifs as are D & E. The difference is that

C & D are right leaning patterns and E & F are left

leaning patterns. C & D are used on right of center

and E & F are used on the left side of center . . .

straight forward and simple to remember. As you

progress, the pattern asks for a different colored

stitch marker to denote where the decreases will

occur. That’s where I used the white markers.

It’s Confessions of a Knitter time …

I frequently use stitch markers to denote a change

in the knitting, but not usually so diligent about

color coding it like I did here. I must confess, it

made it so much easier to knit. (Is that a choir I hear

singing ah-h-h-h-h-h?) Sometimes it pays to follow

your own advice.

The next thing that the pattern recommends about

experience is the ability to read your knitting. This

is fairly challenging as I don’t know of any classes

or YouTube videos that teach how to read your

knitting. In the Knit Night for our guild, we did a

segment on this topic and it was a challenge. As

instructors, we all knew how to read our knitting

from experience, but how to teach others was

a new playing field. So we had participants do

different types of stitches like left leaning vs. right,

but it all boiled down to one thing … observation.

When you first get started with a pattern, it takes

several rows to see the pattern emerge. But once it

starts to reveal itself, you can see what’s happening

and can anticipate the next set of stitches. If you

look at the picture above, pattern B is on the left, A

in the center, and C on the right.

Pattern B – 1st row leans the stitches out, 2nd row

purls back, 3rd row leans the stitches in, 4th row

purls back. By noticing how the stitches are flowing

out and in a zigzag pattern makes it clear on what

to do on the next row.

Pattern A – Note how every 5th

twisted stitch is marked making

it easy to determine when the

next 4/4RC of Pattern C should

be knit.

Pattern C – This pattern is worked

on the right side of center,

therefore, the 4/4 cross should

always flow right.

This is what it means by “reading

your knitting”. The number 1 rule

in learning to read your knitting is

Stop and admire your handiwork!

Admiring your handiwork not

only helps to anticipate the next

stitch, but it also helps to identify

the occasional boo-boo. We all

make mistakes when we knit – we

get distracted by other things and

zig when we should’ve zagged.

The sooner you catch it, the

easier it is to correct. Confessions

time again – the pattern that

caused me the most grief was

Pattern A, the easiest one. In the

section where there are multiple

occurrences of the Knot Stitch, I

would count to 8 before I realized

I should’ve stopped at 3. Back I

went 5 stitches, fixed the problem

and carried on. See, we all make

mistakes.

You’re allowed to take pride in

your handiwork. It’s not a cardinal

sin when it comes to knitting, so

makes sure you frequently stop

and admire your handiwork. This

will really help you during the

decrease sections as well.

The poncho is now complete.

I was a little concerned at the

beginning that Oxford Grey

might be a bit dark for the

patterns to emerge, but not the

case. The pattern detail comes

shining through which is what I

loved about knitting it in the first

place. It was a joy to knit.

I sincerely hope that these

tips were helpful in converting

intimidation into confidence. Just

remember these key points:

1. Stop and admire your

handiwork.

2. Use color coded stitch markers

to delineate the different

pattern motifs.

3. Right leaning patterns on the

right of center and left leaning

patterns on the left of center.

4. Use a removable stitch marker

to tag the row of a cable cross.

5. Stop and admire your

handiwork.

Now for the grand finale!

My ensemble is complete … all

made with Lion Brand Wool-

Ease in Oxford Grey and Tawny

Port. I’m really looking forward

to wearing the hat and hand

warmers, but likely giving the

poncho to one of my nieces. I’m

actually still undecided about that

after putting it on and wearing

on a chilly October evening … it

was so nice and warm. Maybe I’ll

have to make another.

Cindy O'Malley

cindooknits.blogspot.com

The Galway Poncho, Hat, and Hand Warmers mittens all made with Lion Brand Wool-Ease.

KNITmuch | issue 15

29

Smooth and speedy knitting with

Hue + Me

Where is the time going? It’s

been 5 months since I took my

first look at Lion Brand Hue + Me

yarn! Back then, I only dedicated

one post to it - this time, it’s a

whole series of five which will

include information about several

stitching techniques. In this post,

though, we take another look at

the yarn itself.

Hue + Me is a designer yarn that

is color-curated for people who

have difficulty matching colors.

Every color of this yarn was

designed to complement every

other color in the Hue + Me line.

So, if choosing colors isn’t your

strong suit, this is the yarn for

you!

Hue + Me is an 80% acrylic,

20% wool yarn that comes in

4.4oz [125g] balls. It is a 4-ply

bulky weight, with a gauge of

14 sts over 4" [10cm] on size

10.5 [6.5mm] needles. Worked

on size 10 [6mm] needles, you

can probably achieve, or at least

approximately achieve, a chunky

tension of 16 sts to 4" [10cm].

The 4-ply construction makes

a robust yarn, and the angle of

twist makes a lovely, smooth

yarn which offers great stitch

definition.

With Hue + Me, all colors complement one

another. Here, (l-r) rosewater goes with haze, goes

with agave.

The strong angle on the twist of this 4-ply yarn

gives great stitch definition, and the frayed end

shows the softness in each ply.

I followed the pattern for this hat, except I didn’t

have the right size needles. So, I knew this hat was

going to be smaller. It barely covered my ears, but

it fits a friend of mine just fine.

Cynthia MacDougall

The theme of the post back

in June was all about free hat

patterns. I found the most

delightful pattern written

specifically for Hue + Me: the

Trio Toboggan. Just one ball each

of 3 colors makes 3 hats, just by

changing up the colors for each

one. When I found it, I thought

this would be great for making

‘friendship hats’ for your best

buds or your kids’ best buds!

This photo shows what the trio

looks like when you follow the

instructions.

I, however, can be a bit of a rebel

when it comes to knitting, so my

second and third hats turned out

a little differently. It’s one of the

pitfalls of being a designer; the

desire to experiment tends to

take over from time to time.

This Trio Toboggan pattern is

like a popular brand of 3-sided

snacks - bet you can’t make

just one! I couldn’t! The whole

concept of breaking up the

elements of the pattern and

switching them out to get more

mileage out of the yarn is brilliant

in my mind, and is just one of the

options for working with Hue +

Me yarn.

Throughout this series, I’ll be

looking at some basic stitch

patterns, shawl collars, making a

pocket with double knitting, and

finishing the top of pockets, all

with Lion Brand Hue + Me.


Seed Stitch and Moss Stitch and

Hue + Me yarn

In this post, we’re going back to

the basics with three knit-andpurl

stitches: seed stitch, moss

stitch, and k1, p1 ribbing. Seed

and moss stitches are basic

stitches that are often confused,

and, while they all use k1, p1, they

aren’t actually ribbing, because

the bumps of the purl stitches

raise above the surface, while in

ribbing, the ‘purl bumps’ recede.

Also, ribbing tends to draw in

horizontally, while these stitches

tend to spread out horizontally.

If I had a nickel for every knitting

sample I made since I started

Canadian Guild of Knitters in

2002, I could probably buy a very

expensive set of interchangeable

knitting needles! And, I’m doing

4 more for today’s post! For all

that, I’m still a fan of sampling,

and encourage all knitters to do

it. If you aim to make all your

samples the same dimensions,

over time you can create enough

squares to make a blanket or a

coat of many colors!

All of these stitches can be

worked back and forth, or in

the round and they can be

worked on an odd or even

number of stitches.

Every color of Hue + Me is designed to go with every other color in the line. These

3 colors sure work that way! Front: agave, middle: haze, and back: rosewater.

All 3 of these samples were made using 21 sts and 17 rows and various

arrangements of k1 p1.

Photos by Cynthia MacDougall

KNITmuch | issue 15

31

SEED STITCH - WORKED FLAT

Worked over an odd number of

stitches:

Row 1: *K1, p1; rep from * to last

st, k1.

Rep Row 1.

Worked over an even number of

stitches:

Row 1: *K1, p1; rep from * to end

of row.

Row 2: *P1, k1; rep from * to end

of row.

Rep Rows 1 and 2.

SEED STITCH - IN THE ROUND


stitches:

Rnd 1: *K1, p1; rep from * to last

st, k1.

Rnd 2: *P1, k1; rep from * to last

st, p1.

Rep Rnds 1 and 2.

*Worked over an even number

of stitches|:

Rnd 1: *K1, p1; rep from *

around.

Rnd 2: *P1, k1; rep from * around.

Rep Rnds 1 and 2.


MOSS STITCH

The Moss Stitch is worked just

like the seed stitch or ribbing,

except that the k and p stitches

are stacked and switched out

every 2 rows. This gives a lovely

fabric that is attractive.


stitches:


st, k1.

Row 2: *P1, k1; rep from * to last

st, p1.

Row 3: *P1, k1; rep from * to last

st, p1. (as Row 2)


st, k1. (as Row 1)

Rep Rows 1 - 4.


stitches:


of row.


of row. (as Row 1)


of row.


of row. (as Row 3)

Rep Rows 1 - 4.

Worked in the round, the Moss

Stitch goes like this:


stitches:

Rnd 1: *K1, p1; rep from * to last

st, k1.

Rnd 2: Rep Rnd 1

Rnd 3: *P1, k1; rep from * to last

st, p1.

Rnd 4: Rep Rnd 3.

Rep Rnds 1 - 4.


stitches:

Rnd 1 and 2: *K1, p1; rep from *

around.

Rnd 3 and 4: *P1, k1; rep from *

around.

Rep Rnds 1 - 4.

Now I’ve just done something

here that you may not have

noticed: I’ve written the

instructions for the 4 sections of

Moss Stitch in 3 different ways.

All of them have a 4-row pattern,

and all of them use a k1, p1, but

the way I’ve written them shows

different ways a designer can

write down instructions. The first

two are written for an absolute

beginning knitter: every row is

spelled out in complete detail,

and they even show that some

of the rows are repeats of rows

before.

The third pattern substitutes

the ‘spelled out’ instruction and

points the knitter back to the

other rounds that are the same.

A knitter using a sticky note to

mark their place can still stop

anywhere, place their note, and

conveniently pick up from where

they left off.

The fourth pattern conveys

the same information, but in

three lines instead of 5. An

absolute beginner could follow

it. However, it might be easy for

them to lose track of where they

are. For that reason, this pattern

is aimed more at an intermediate

knitter.

Usually, when creating knitting

patterns, especially ones that

will be published in books or

magazines, column space is at

a premium, so the fourth way of

giving the instructions would be

the preferred format by editors.

How to knit tidy edges

In this post, I show you how to

make neat edges on the sides of

your scarf, or any project where

you want a tidy edge: a blanket,

button bands, or tunic vent.

There are times when you might

want the seams inside a garment

to be neatly done, perhaps to

make a jacket reversible.

This is not a difficult technique.

The challenge is simply

remembering to do it

consistently.

Selvages (selvedges, if you are

British), are defined as the margin

on the sides of woven cloth,

where the weft (weaving) threads

weave in tightly on the sides of

the loom. In knitting, the knitter

creates these edges as they make

the fabric, usually by working

them consistently on the first and

last one (or two) stitches on each

side of the work.

Selvages have several useful

purposes, and are often

overlooked. Sometimes, they

dress up an edge to give it an

attractive appearance.

A two-stitch selvage makes a

decorative but functional design

element to a garment, often

adding structure at the edges

of a garment. For example, a

garter stitch selvage is shorter

than the adjacent stockinette

stitch fabric. This adds sturdiness

to a side seam or sleeve seam -

particularly useful when working

with cotton or rayon yarns.

There is an entire chapter (4)

dedicated to selvages in the

book, The Principles of Knitting,

truly a knitter’s text book. If

you’re not as avid a knitter as I

am, you can look up this massive

resource at your local library. I

heartily recommend having a

look at this chapter!

Below are the instructions I

used for a tidy, chain edge on

the sides of the scarf that is the

project for this series of posts.

Generally speaking, if you plan to

use selvages on your garment,

add the stitches for them onto

the number of stitches for your

garment. For example, if your

pattern has 110 stitches for the

body panel and you want a

2-stitch selvage on each side,

make sure there are 114 stitches

on the panel.

I used to know a knitter who

worked her selvage at the end

of the row, but I find it easier to

remember them at the beginning

of each row.

To make the selvage in the

photo, slip the first stitch of every

row as if to purl it, keeping the

yarn at the front of the work,

then move the yarn wherever

you need to work the next stitch.

Caveat: This works really well on

the seed stitch borders, but when

worked on stockinette stitch,

one side may be looser than the

other. This is another reason I

advocate knitting samples.

For the scarf project, I have

intentionally worked the collar

increases at the edges of the

scarf. They look like this:

Even though the increases are right at the edge,

the scarf still has an attractive edge.

If I weren’t doing a seed stitch

border, I could move the increases

a stitch or two away from the

edge and maintain the smooth

chain in the previous photo.

A selvage creates a neat chain of stitches on the

exposed edge of this scarf, but it can do the same

for button bands, or a blanket.

KNITmuch | issue 15

33

Double-knitted pockets

add functionality to a knit scarf

From top to bottom: agave, rosewater, and haze

shades of Hue + Me.

So far, the border (seed stitch)

and selvage (chain) have been

decided. It’s time to finish the

planning.

I designed this piece with a

knitted-in pocket using a fairly

advanced knitting technique

known as double-knitting,

where the knitter makes two

layers of fabric at the same

time. These days, we can

always use another place to

stash a mask, and this scarf

gives us two.

Note: The term double

knitting has several

applications in knitting: 1.

A yarn that has a knitting

tension of 24 sts to 4” [10cm]

on 4mm needles; 2. A term for

knitting color stranded work

used in some areas, notably

the Eastern seaboard; 3. When

hyphenated, a reference to

two layers of knitting made

simultaneously.

Let’s look at the schematic:

The base length of the scarf is

the wingspan of the wearer - the

measurement from fingertip to

fingertip with arms outstretched.

There is no point in making this

scarf any longer, otherwise the

wearer can’t reach the bottom

of the pockets. The bottom

and top borders and the depth

to the bottom of the pocket

is 3½” [9cm], so the finished

length is wingspan + (3½ x 2), or

wingspan + 7” [18cm]. Generally

speaking, one’s wingspan is the

same length as one’s height.

The schematic shows the pocket

placement and a measurement

called wingspan.

The scarf widens out above the

pocket on both sides to form a

collar that rolls back to keep out

drafts.

There are several ways to cast on

to make a double-knitting piece

but as this pocket starts above

the cast on, it’s actually very

easy to create the bottom of the

pocket: kfb (knit front and back)

for every stitch.

I designed the pocket in a

different color so a beginning

knitter can see the stitches. An

advanced knitter may choose to

do everything in one color.

The first row of the pocket has

kfb in each of the pocket’s 21

sts. The peach CC makes a

patch of color on the back.


Hue + Me Pocket Scarf

Any size

finished measurements

Wingspan + 7” [18cm]

materials

yarn

• Lion Brand Hue + Me, 125g

skeins

• 5 balls main color (MC) (more

if the wearer is taller than 5’4”)

• 1 ball contrasting color (CC)

needles

• US 10.5 [6.5mm]

• US 10 [6mm] needles

or size needed to obtain gauge

gauge

12 sts to 4” [10cm] using larger

needles

abbreviations

Sl 1 - slip stitch purlwise with yarn

in front

Inc in first/ last st: k into the front

and back of the st

SCARF

With MC and larger needles, cast

on 39 sts.

Row 1: Sl 1, *p1, k1; rep from * to

end.

Rows 2 - 7: Rep Row 1.

Row 8: Sl 1, (p1, k1) twice, k to last

5 sts, (k1, p1) twice, k1.

Row 9: Sl 1, (p1, k1) twice, p to

last 5sts, (k1, p1) twice, k1.

Rows 10 - 15: Rep Rows 8 and 9

3 times.

Row 16: Sl 1, (p1, k1) twice, k4,

work kfb in next 21 sts, k5,

(p1, k1) twice. 60 sts

Row 17: Sl 1, (p1, k1) twice, p4,

join CC at front, (ytb, k1CC,

ytf, p1MC) 21 times, twist

yarns and with MC, p4, (k1,

p1) twice, k1. (39 MC sts, 21

CC sts)

Row 18: Sl1, (p1, k1) twice, k4,

twist yarns at back of work,

(k1MC, ytf, p1CC, ytb) 21

times, twist yarns, with MC,

k5, (p1, k1) twice.

Row 19: Sl1, (p1, k1) twice, p4, twist

yarns, (ytb, k1CC, ytf, p1MC)

21 times, twist yarn, with MC,

p4, (k1, p1) twice, k1.

Rep Rows 18 and 19 until pocket

measures 6” [15cm]. End with RS

facing for next row.

Separate Pocket

Sl 1, (p1, k1) twice, k4, bring CC

to front and continue with MC:

(put next k st on holder, p1) 21

times, k5 (p1, k1) twice (39 sts).

This opens the pocket. As long

as the yarns were only twisted at

the sides of the pocket, the entire

cavity should open up. Wind

off 12 yards [11m] of CC for the

pocket top, and leave the yarn in

the pocket.

Continue with MC.

Row 1 (WS): Sl 1, (k1, p1) twice, p

to last 5 sts, (k1, p1) twice,

k1.

Row 2: Sl 1, (p1, k1) twice, k to last

4 sts, (p1, k1) twice.

Rows 3 - 7: Rep Rows 1 and 2.

Shape Collar

Row 8: Inc in first st, (p1, k1) twice,

k30, p1, k1, p1, inc in last st.

41 sts

Row 9: Sl 1, (k1, p1) twice, k1, p29,

(k1, p1) twice, k2.

Row 10: Sl 1, (k1, p1) twice, k31

(p1, k1) twice, k1.


Row 15: Rep Row 9.

Row 16: Inc in first st, (k1, p1)

twice, k31, (p1, k1) twice, inc

in last st. 43 sts

Row 17: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 3 times, p29,

(k1, p1) 3 times, k1.

Row 18: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 3 times, k30,

(p1, k1) 3 times.


Row 23: Rep Row 17.

Intermediate and Advanced

knitters: continue in this manner,

keeping continuity of border

pattern and inc at the beg and

end of every 8th row until the

borders each have 15 sts. Pick up

again at the instruction “Go to

Row 81.”

The following instructions give

detail for beginning knitters:

Row 24: Inc in first st, (p1, k1) 3

times, k30, (p1, k1) twice,

p1, inc in last st. 45 sts

Row 25: Sl 1, (k1, p1) 4 times, p28,

(k1, p1) 3 times, k2.

Row 26: Sl 1, (k1, p1) 3 times, k31,

(p1, k1) 3 times, k1.


Row 31: Rep Row 25.

Row 32: Inc in first st, (k1, p1) 3

times, k31, (p1, k1) 3 times,

inc in last st. 47 sts

Row 33: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 4 times, p29,

(k1, p1) 4 times, k1.

Row 34: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 4 times, k30,

(p1, k1) 4 times.


Row 39: Rep Row 33.

Row 40: Inc in first st, (p1, k1) 4

times, k31, (p1, k1) 3 times,

p1, inc in last st. 49 sts

Row 41: Sl 1, (k1, p1) 5 times, p28,

(k1, p1) 4 times, k2.

KNITmuch | issue 15

35

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Row 42: Sl 1, (k1, p1) 4

times, k31, (p1, k1)

4 times, k1.

Rows 43 - 46: Rep Rows

41 and 42.

Row 47: Rep Row 41.

Row 48: Inc in first st,

(k1, p1) 4 times,

k31, (p1, k1) 4

times, inc in last

st. 51 sts

Row 49: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 5

times, p29, (k1,

p1) 5 times, k1.

Row 50: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 5


5 times.

Rows 51 - 54: Rep

Rows 49 and 50.

Row 55: Rep Row 49.


(k1, p1) 4 times,

k31, (p1, k1) 4

times, k1, inc in

last st. 53 sts

Row 57: Sl 1, (k1, p1) 5

times, k1, p29, (k1,

p1) 5 times, k2.

Row 58: Sl 1, (k1, p1) 5


5 times, k1.

Rows 59 - 62: Rep

Rows 57 and 58.

Row 63: Rep Row 57.


(k1, p1) 5 times,

k31, (p1, k1) 5

times, inc in last

st. 55 sts

Row 65: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 6

times, p29, (k1,

p1) 6 times, k1.

Row 66: Sl 1 (p1, k1) 6


6 times.

Rows 67 - 70: Rep

Rows 65 and 66.

Row 71: Rep Row 65.

Row 72: Inc. in 1st st,

(p1, k1) 6 times,

k30, (p1, k1) 5

times, p1, inc in

last st. 57 sts

Row 73: Sl 1 (k1, p1) 7

times, p 38, (k1,

p1) 6 times, k2.

Row 74: Sl 1 (k1, p1) 6


6 times, k1.

Rows 75 - 78: Rep

Rows 73

and 74.

Row 79: Rep Row 73.

Row 80: Inc in 1st st, (k1,

p1) 6 times, k31,

(p1, k1) 6 times,

inc in last st. 59 sts

Row 81: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 7

times, p29, (k1,

p1) 7 times, k1.

Row 82: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 7


7 times.

Rep Rows 81 and 82

until length from

bottom of pocket

measures one-half of

the wingspan. Place

a marker and work

the same number of

repeats of Rows 81

and 82 to complete

the back of the collar.

End with RS facing for

next row.


A double-knitted pocket scarf

with Hue + Me part 2

The following instructions again

provide detailed information for

beginning knitters. Intermediate

and advanced knitters can skip to

(39 sts) once they’ve established

the decrease routine.

Let’s knit on.

Decrease collar

Row 1: K2tog, (k1, p1) 6 times,

k31, (p1, k1) 6 times, ssk. 57

sts

Row 2: Sl 1, (k1, p1) 7 times, p28,

(k1, p1) 6 times, k2

Row 3: Sl 1, (k1, p1) 6 times, k31,

(p1, k1) 6 times, k1


Row 8: Rep Row 3.

Row 9: K2tog, (p1, k1) 6 times,

k30, (p1, k1) 5 times, p1, ssk.

55 sts

Row 10: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 6 times, p29,

(k1, p1) 6 times, k1

Row 11: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 6 times, k30,

(p1, k1) 6 times


Row 16: Rep Row 10.

Intermediate and advanced

knitters: Continue decreasing in

this manner until there are 39 sts

on needle. Go to end of Row 73,

(39 sts) below.


k31, (p1, 1) 5 times, k1, ssk.

53 sts

Row 18: Sl 1, (k1, p1) 6 times, p28,

(k1, p1) 5 times, k2.

Row 19: Sl 1, (k1, p1) 5 times, k31,

(p1, k1) 5 times, k1.

Rows 20 -23: Rep Rows 18 and 19.

Row 24: Rep Row 18.


k30, (p1, k1) 4 times, p1,

ssk. 51 sts

Row 26: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 5 times, p29,

(k1, p1) 5 times, k1.

Row 27: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 5 times, k30,

(p1, k1) 5 times.


Row 32: Rep Row 26.

Row 33: K2tog, (k1, p1) 4 times, k31,

(p1, k1) 4 times, ssk. 49 sts

Row 34: Sl 1, (k1, p1) 5 times, p28,

(k1, p1) 4 times, k2.

Row 35: Sl 1, (k1, p1) 4 times, k31,

(p1, k1) 4 times, k1.


Row 40: Rep Row 34.


k30, (p1, k1) 3 times, p1, ssk.

47 sts

Row 42: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 4 times, p29,

(k1, p1) 4 times, k1.

Row 43: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 4 times, k30,

(p1, k1) 4 times.


Row 48: Rep Row 42.


k31, (p1, k1) 3 times, ssk.

45 sts

Row 50: Sl 1, (k1, p1) 4 times, p28,

(k1, p1) 3 times, k2.

The reflection shows the

coat sleeve in the pocket

and the wrap-around

effect of the shawl collar.

The second pocket opens up as

the knitting progresses. As this is

viewed, the placket (in CC, top) was

knitted top down, and the pocket

forms as the knitting continues.

KNITmuch | issue 15

37

Row 51: Sl 1, (k1, p1) 3 times, k31,

(p1, k1) 3 times, k1.


Row 56: Rep Row 50.

Row 57: K2tog, (p1, k1) 3 times, k30,

(p1, k1) twice, p1, ssk. 43 sts

Row 58: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 3 times, p29,

(k1, p1) 3 times, k1.

Row 59: Sl 1, (p1, k1) 3 times, k30,

(p1, k1) 3 times.


Row 64: Rep Row 58.

Row 65: K2tog, (k1, p1) twice, k31,

(p1, k1) twice, ssk. 41 sts

Row 66: Sl 1, (k1, p1) 3 times, p28,

(k1, p1) twice, k2.

Row 67: Sl 1, (k1, p1) twice, k31, (p1,

k1) twice, k1.


Row 72: Rep Row 66.

Row 73: K2tog, (p1, k1) twice, k30,

p1, k1, p1, ssk. 39 sts

Row 74: Sl 1, (p1, k1) twice, p29, (k1,

p1) twice, k1.

Row 75: Sl 1, (p1, k1) twice, k30, (p1,

k1) twice.

Repeat Rows 74 and 75 two more

times (WS facing for next row).

Make second pocket.

Placket

With CC and smaller needles, cast

on 19 sts.

Work (k1, p1) to last st, k1, for 7 rows.

Inc row: K2, m1, k15, m1, k2. 21 sts

Break yarn.

Attach Placket

With WS of scarf facing, and MC, sl

1, (p1, k1) twice, p4, p1MC, join CC,

ytf, k1CC, (ytf, p1MC, ytb, k1CC) 20

times, twist yarn, with MC, p4, (k1,

p1) twice, k1.

Row 1: Sl 1, (p1, k1) twice, k4,

twist yarns at back of work,

(k1MC, ytf, p1CC, ytb) 21

times, twist yarns, with MC,

k5, (p1, k1) twice.

Row 2: Sl 1, (p1, k1) twice, p4, twist

yarns, (ytb, k1CC, ytf, p1MC)

21 times, twist yarn, with

MC, p4, (k1, p1) twice, k1.

Rep Rows 1 and 2 until pocket

measures 6” [15cm]. End with WS

facing for next row. Break CC.

Close Pocket

Row 1: Sl 1, (p1, k1) twice, p4, (k1,

p1) 21 times, p4, (k1, p1)

twice, k1

Row 2: Sl 1, (p1, k1) twice, p4,

(ssk) 21 times, k5, (p1, k1)

twice (39 sts)

Row 3: Sl 1, (p1, k1) twice, p to

last 5 sts, (k1, p1) twice, k1

Row 4: Sl 1, (p1, k1) twice, k to

last 4 sts, (p1, k1) twice

Rep Rows 3 and 4 twice more.

Bottom Border

Row 1: Sl 1, (p1, k1) to end of

row.

Rep Row 1 6 times. Cast off in

pattern.

Placket for First Pocket

Sl sts from holder onto smaller

needle (CC yarn should be near

the tip of the needle.)

With CC, k2, ssk, k13, k2tog, k2 (19

sts)

Work (k1, p1) to last st, k1 for 7

rows (RS facing for next row)

Cast off all sts. With CC, stitch the

sides of the trim to the body of

the scarf.

Weave in all ends, and block

lightly if desired.

This peach scarf was my second

attempt. I started it with different

colors, but after knitting the first

pocket I learned I didn’t have

enough of one of the colors to

complete the scarf. So, that piece

of knitting is going to be an arm

protector/pocket for the side of my

knitting chair. It’s a great spot to

put a phone and even the remote!

Here’s that schematic I promised!

(click to download)

The schematic shows the pocket

placement and a measurement

called wingspan.

There are many other applications

for Hue + Me yarn. This yarn has

great insulative qualities perfect for

warm, speed-knit baby blankets,

jacket-weight sweaters, and

accessories. I’m glad I had the

opportunity to try it.

Cynthia MacDougall

cgknitters.ca


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KNITmuch | issue 15

39

Standard Yarn Weight System

Categories of yarn, gauge ranges, and recommended needle and hook sizes



dec = decrease(s), decreasing



Yarn Weight

Symbol &

Category

Names

Yarn Weight

Type of

Symbol & Yarns in

Category Category

Names

Demos

Food

Vendors

Workshops

Fingering,

10 count

crochet thread

13th

Annual

Knit Gauge

Type of Range* in Fingering, Sock,

Yarns in

33–40**

Stockinette 10 count Fingering,

sts

Category Stitch to crochet thread Baby

4 inches

Knit Gauge

Range* in Recommended

33–40** 27–32

Stockinette Needle in 1.5–2.25

Stitch to Metric Size

sts

mm

sts

4 inches Range

Saturday October 15, 2022

9am to 4pm

Paris Fair Grounds, 139 Silver St, Paris,ON

www.fleecefestival.com

Sock,

Fingering,

Baby

27–32

sts

2.25–3.25

mm

Yarn Weight

Symbol &

Sport, Category

Names Baby

DK,

Light

Worsted

Worsted,

Afghan,

Aran

* GUIDELINES ONLY: The above reflect the most commonly used gauges and needle or hook sizes for specific yarn categories.

* GUIDELINES ONLY: The above reflect the most commonly


** Lace used weight gauges

11 yarns and needle are usually or hook knitted sizes or for crocheted specific yarn on larger categories. needles and hooks to create lacy, openwork patterns. Accordingly, a

** Lace weight yarns are usually knitted or crocheted on larger gauge needles range is and difficult hooks to to determine. create lacy, Always openwork follow patterns. the gauge Accordingly, stated your a pattern.

gauge range is difficult to determine. Always follow the gauge *** Steel stated crochet in your hooks pattern. are sized differently from regular hooks--the higher the number, the smaller the hook, which is the reverse

Chunky,

Craft,

Rug

Bulky,

Roving

Jumbo,

Roving

Type of

Fingering, Sock,

DK,

Worsted,

Yarns in DK, 10 count Worsted, Fingering, Chunky,

Sport,

Sport,

6 sts

23–26 21–24 16–20 12–15 BabyBulky,

Light

7–11 Jumbo,

Afghan,

Category Light crochet thread Afghan, Baby Craft,

Baby

and

sts

sts

sts

sts Roving

Worsted

sts Roving

Aran

Worsted

Aran

Rug

fewer

Knit Gauge

Range* in

33–40** 27–32 23–26 21–24

Stockinette

6 sts

16–20

23–26 21–24

12.75 mm

3.25–3.75 Stitch to 3.75–4.5sts

16–20

4.5–5.5sts

12–15

5.5–8 sts 7–11

8–12.75 sts

and

sts

sts

and

4 mm

sts

inches mm

sts

mm

sts

mm

sts

mm fewer

larger

oz = ounce(s)

Recommended

Recommended

17

p = purl

Recommended

12.75 mm

Needle in 1.5–2.25 2.25–3.25 3.25–3.75 3.75–4.5

Needle U.S. 000 to 1 1 to 3 3 to 5 5 to 7 7 to 9 9 to 11 11 to 17 12.75 mm

4.5–5.5 5.5–8 p2tog = purl 8–12.75 2 sts tog (decrease)

Needle in 1.5–2.25 2.25–3.25 3.25–3.75Metric Size 3.75–4.5 mm4.5–5.5

mm 5.5–8 mm8–12.75

and

and

mm

Size Range

and

mm

mmpatt = pattern mm

Metric Size

mm

mm

mm

larger

Range mm

mm

mm

mm

larger

pfb = purl into front and back of stitch (increase)

larger

Range

pm = place marker

Crochet

Recommended

psso = pass slipped stitch over 17

Gauge*Ranges 32–42

6 sts

Recommended

21–32 16–20 12–17 11–14

8–11

7–9

in Single

double

Needle U.S. 000 to 1 1 to 3 3 to 5 5 to 7 17

RS = right side

and

7 to 9 9 to 11 11 to 17

and

rem = remain(ing)

Needle U.S. 000 to 1 1 to 3 sts 3 to 5 sts

sts

sts

sts

sts

Crochet to crochets**

Size Range 5 to 7 7 to 9 9 to 11 11 to 17

and

fewer

rep = repeat

larger

Size Range

larger

4 inch

rev = reverse

Crochet

rnd = round

Crochet

Steel***

Gauge*Ranges 32–42

sc = single crochet 6 sts

Gauge*Ranges Recommended 32–42

21–32 16–20 12–17 15 mm 11–14

8–11

7–9

1.6–1.4 mm 2.25–3.25 3.5–4.5 in Single 4.5–5.5 double

6.5–9

9–15 6 sts

sl = slip

and

in Single Hook in Metric

21–32 16–20 12–17 11–14

double

5.5–6.5mmsts

8–11 sts 7–9 sts and sts

sts skp = slip one stsst, knit next st, pass slipped st over knit

Regular hook mm

Crochet mm to mm crochets**

mm

mm and

fewer

Crochet to Size Range

sts

sts

sts

sts

sts

sts

crochets**

larger

st (dec)

2.25 mm

4 inch

fewer

ssk = slip, slip, knit: slip 2 sts knitwise, 1 at a time, insert

4 inch

left-hand needle into front of both sts and knit

Steel***

Steel*** Steel***

Recommended

Recommended

1.6–1.4 mm 2.25–3.25 3.5–4.5 4.5–5.5

Recommended 6, 7, 8

Hook in Metric

I–9

15 mm

1.6–1.4 mm 2.25–3.25 3.5–4.5 4.5–5.5 Regular hook mm 6.5–9

Q

K–10

Hook U.S. Size Regular B–1 to E–4 E–4 to 7 7 to I–9

to

1 ⁄2 mm 9–15

5.5–6.5mm

Hook in Metric

Size Range

5.5–6.5mm

M-13 mm

and

Regular hook mm

mm

mm 2.25 mm

mm

and

to M-13 mm

Size Range

to Q

Range

hook

K–10 1 ⁄2

larger

2.25 mm

larger

B–1

Steel***

Steel***

Recommended 6, 7, 8

I–9

* GUIDELINES ONLY: The above reflect the most commonly used gauges and needle or hook sizes for specific yarn categories.

Recommended 6, 7, 8

Hook U.S. Size RegularI–9

B–1 to E–4 E–4 to 7 7 to I–9 Q

** Lace weight yarns are usually knitted or crocheted on larger needles and hooks to create K–10

to

lacy, openwork patterns. Accordingly, a

Hook U.S. Size Regular B–1 to E–4 E–4 to 7

gauge range is difficult to determine. Always follow Range 7 to I–9

the gauge stated hook to

1 ⁄2 M-13

and

in your pattern.

K–10 1 ⁄2

to M-13

to Q

Range

hook

B–1K–10 1 ⁄2

larger

*** Steel crochet hooks are sized differently from regular hooks--the higher the number, the smaller the hook, which is the reverse

of regular B–1 hook sizing.

This Standards & Guidelines booklet and downloadable symbol artwork are available at: YarnStandards.com

Crochet

Felting

Knitting

Spinning

Rug Hooking

Weaving

KNITmuch

...to K, is to

12–15

sts

Standard abbreviations & terms

alt = alternate

Standards & Guidelines For Crochet and Knitting • YarnStandards.com

approx = approximately

beg = begin(ning)

BO= bind off

Standards & Guidelines For Crochet and Knitting • YarnStandards.com CC = contrast color

Standards & Guidelines For Crochet and Knitting • YarnStandards.com

ch = chain

cm = centimetre(s)

cn = cable needle

co = cast on

cont = continue, continuing

dc = double crochet

dpn = double-pointed needle(s)

foll = following

g = gram(s)

hdc = half double crochet

inc = increase(s), increasing

in(s) = inch(es)

k = knit

kf&b or kfb = knit into front and back of st (increase)

Chunky, ktbl = knit

Bulky,

through the back

Jumbo,

loop

Craft, k2tog = knit 2 sts tog (right-leaning decrease)

Roving Roving

Rugk3tog = knit 3 sts together (double right-leaning

decrease)

m = marker

m = meter(s)

m1 = Make 6 sts

7–11 1 stitch: pick up the horizontal strand

between 2 stitches from and front to back and knit it

sts

fewer

tbl (lifted increase)

MC = main color

mm = millimetre(s)

them tog (left-leaning decrease)

6.5–9 sssk = slip next 15 mm

9–15three stitches individually, knitwise.

and

mm

Insert tip

mm

of left needle from front to back into

the fronts of these three largerstitches and knit them

together (double left-leaning decrease)

st(s) = stitch(es)

St st = stocking stitch

tbl = through back loop

tog Q

K–10 1 = together

⁄2 M-13

tr = treble crochet and

to M-13

to Q

larger

WS = wrong side

yo = yarn over

KNITmuch Issue 15

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