KNITmuch Issue 16

KNITmuch

cardigan · T-shirt · house coat · poncho · woven blanket ·

Knit this cozy

Cabled Poncho

NOW! with

LION BRAND

WOOL-EASE

THICK

AND

QUICK

...to K, is to

Issue 16

KNITTING

with

UNIVERSAL YARN

BELLA CHENILLE BIG

MAGNOLIA

* 4 ways for

weaving in ends

when using

chenille yarn, big

or small

* substituting yarns

when knitting

from a pattern:

How to make the

switch

* wood, metal,

straight or

circular: Which

knitting needle is

best for you?

Hello sweater weather!

* knitting swatches

for gauge,

needles, color,

and pattern: It’s

important

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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF, ART DIRECTOR

Carla A. Canonico

Carla@KNITmuch.com

ADVERTISING SALES

John De Fusco

John@KNITmuch.com

PUBLISHER

A Needle Pulling Thread

PHOTOGRAPHERS

John De Fusco, Carla A. Canonico, Contributors

BLOGGERS/CONTRIBUTORS

Cindy O'Malley

cindooknits.blogspot.com

Cynthia MacDougall

ktogdesign@gmail.com

Fiona Stevenson

www.fionaknits.com

GRAPHIC DESIGN

Carla A. Canonico

Carla@KNITmuch.com

Sondra Armas

Sondra@KNITmuch.com

SOCIAL MEDIA and WEB

Sondra Armas

Alejandro Araujo

WEBSITE / BLOG : KNITmuch.com

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WHERE TO GET YOUR COPY

KNITmuch is a quarterly eMagazine published by A Needle

Pulling Thread. It is available free for personal use online at

KNITmuch.com.

A limited number of printed copies of KNITmuch are

available for purchase at select yarn shops and specialty

stores. Ask for it at your local shop. KNITmuch is not

available by subscription.

YARN SHOPS

If you are interested in carrying KNITmuch in your store,

please email John@KNITmuch.com.

EDITORIAL

Bloggers, designers, and other contributors who would

like to be considered for future issues please email

Carla@KNITmuch.com with a brief description of your

work and your proposed project.

©2022 KNITmuch. All rights reserved. Issue 16.

ISSN 2368-5913.

No part of this publication may be reproduced without

written permission from the publisher.

All designs, patterns, and information in this magazine are

for private, non-commercial use only, and are copyrighted

material owned by their respective creators or owners.

2 KNITmuch | issue 16

KNITmuch.com

Visit and download our free ebook:

Cynthia MacDougall's

Knitting Essentials!

much

KNITmuc

6 Knit Together Motif Magic

10 Better knitting starts with the right accessories [tools of the trade]

13 Wood, metal, straight or circular: Which knitting needle is best for you?

15 Knitting essentials: Why it’s the small things that count

17 3 special little tools for smooth knitting and a professional look

19 Get that warm feeling with this knitted cable poncho [free pattern]

22 Stay on trend with Bella Chenille Big Glimmer: Why this yarn is a favorite!

23 Knitting large-scale samples: Why it’s an important time saver

25 4 ways for weaving in ends when using chenille yarn, big or small

27 What you need to know about knitting with ease (trendy pattern - free)

28 Modifying a knitting pattern to remove bulk makes this jacket a nice fit

30 Knitting with the NEW Universal Yarn Magnolia

31 Knitting swatches for gauge, needles, color, and pattern: It’s important

33 Knit this super cute T-shirt with the NEW Magnolia yarn (free pattern)

35 Substituting yarns when knitting from a pattern: How to make the switch

37 Weaving with Magnolia is as beautiful as knitting with it (It’s a wrap!)

contents

KNITmuch | issue 16

3

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editor's

letter

Hello, sweater weather!!

My knitting experience is always enhanced

come autumn, like getting the call to

prepare to hibernate. It's not quite cold, but

cool enough that I could

use a sweater or poncho

right about now!

Fiona Stevenson's version

of the cozy Cabled Poncho

knit up with Lion Brand

Yarn Wool-Ease Thick and

Quick makes it possible to

knit it up quickly and is the

perfect knitted accessory

for the season.

Also in this issue, Cindy

O'Malley proposes

knitting with Universal

Yarn Magnolia, the Paulie

Cardigan by Isabell Kraemer.

The yarn is a great match for

a feel-good cardi!

In my mind's eye, thoughts

of holiday gift ideas are

popping up left and right. Will I be able

to keep up with my list? I give my head

a shake. Although I want to express my

love for family and friends it doesn't mean

I have to go overboard with my knitting.

That’s the other call I get from the fall

season is to start knitting accessory items

now and finish early to avoid the typical

Christmas rush.

For my knitter friends, I'll make it simple:

by gifting sought-after knitting tools (or

should I say essentials) that they might

not have bought for

themselves. Keep in mind,

that knitters do lose their

tools, like stitch markers,

interchangeable knitting

needle tips, rulers, etc. You

have the whole fall season

to delve into their needs

or wishes without giving

yourself up! This is where

Fiona Stevenson comes

in with her proposed

selection of knitting tools.

She has written about tools

like cable needles, snipping

tools and row counters

that look like jewelry, and

my all-time favorite, the

pattern holder!

There are so many tools to

choose from, and given

as a token of appreciation goes a long way

without too much ado.

Enjoy this KNITmuch issue!

Cheerfully,

follow me

KNITmuch | issue 12 16

5

Knit Together

with Cynthia MacDougall

Motif Magic

Photo by Mike Guilbault

Cynthia MacDougall

Knit Together Design Studio

PO Box 562 Stn Main

Orillia, ON L3V 6K2


ravelry name: macknitnow

A

cousin of mine learned to knit in

Holland. Because of the language

barrier, she never used a pattern – she

just saw something she liked and copied or

adapted it to suit her needs. Another knitting

friend of mine has reached the point where she

feels she is ready to learn to read charts. Early

in my knitting life, I had a premonition that

some day I would design knitwear. The three of

us have approached knitting in different ways,

and we all get a sense of fulfillment from it.

One of the ways I ‘grew’ into designing was

to make minor changes to patterns. Later, I

learned the joys of ‘doodling with yarn’ and

began to make major changes to knitting

patterns. Along the way I found that by taking

elements from other knitting patterns, and

applying them in my own creative way, I could

create designs of my own. This last design

method is one I like to call Motif Magic.

In knitting, a motif is a small design, often

repeated, either on a plain ground or as an

all-over design. Motifs can take the form of

texture or colour. Colour stranding motifs, like

the musical notes and sheep in Photos 4 and

5, offer numerous options. Not only do they

work well in many different weights of yarn,

they can be applied in numerous ways: perhaps

as a border on a sweater body and sleeves, or

as an all-over pattern. Traditional fishermen’s

ganseys use motifs in the form of knit and purl

stitches. See Photo 1. Trees and anchors are

among the many motifs used in this form of

knitting. Motifs might also be worked in lace,

as seen in Photo 2. Alice Starmore and Elsebeth

Lavold created motifs using cables in their

books, Aran Knitting, and Viking Knits, respectively.

Photo 3 is a cable motif in this style.

Motifs are a great way to learn how to read

knitting charts. Some knitting charts cover

many stitches and rows, but motifs tend to have

fewer stitches and rows, often few enough to

work into a tension swatch. By working a motif

into a tension swatch, the knitter becomes

familiar with chart symbols and gets to practice

the pattern. From this experience, he or she can

decide whether or not to make a whole garment

using the motif.

The motif in the Victorian Flower Scarf, in this

issue, is a lace motif that dates back to Victorian

times. The flower is worked using double yarn

overs. Decreases are worked on each side of the

double yarn over to maintain the stitch count

and on the return row, the double yarn over has a

knit and a purl stitch worked into it to maintain

the correct number of stitches.

The Victorian Flower Scarf shows how one motif

can be adapted for use with several weights of

yarn. When choosing a yarn for a motif, consideration

should be given to both the size of

the motif and the weight of yarn. A motif with

small details, such as a colour-stranded motif,

can often be adapted readily to a thick yarn. A

large motif, such as the lace motif (Photo 2) may

be difficult to adapt to a thick yarn due to its

size and would best be worked using a fine or

medium weight yarn.

The pattern for the scarf was written using the

motif as a ‘building block.’ In this case, the motif

is stacked in vertical columns, but there are

many other possibilities that include:

• working only one column, as given for the

chunky version of the scarf, but placing it

off-center

• varying the number of rows between motifs

• staggering the motifs in ‘steps’

• placing the flower motifs in a chequerboard

pattern

• placing a few motifs randomly throughout or

only at the ends of the scarf


Photos courtesy of Cynthia MacDougall.

To work many of these options, stitch markers can

be used to identify the placement of the motifs.

Place a marker in front of whatever stitch will be the

start of the ‘block’ of stitches represented on the

motif chart.

No matter what approach a knitter takes toward

knitting, motif magic is a useful concept. It can be a

way for the novice knitter to learn to read charts or

for a knitter of any level to enter the realm of knitwear

design. Experiment with the Victorian Flower

Motif, or find a motif you like in a stitch dictionary

and have some fun. Before you know it, you’ll be

creating your own original knitting designs! z

Photo 1: The diamonds/crosses, anchors, and hearts in this design represent

Faith, Hope, and Charity. These motifs are common elements in Gansey knitting

that have been made in worsted weight yarn for this example.

These motifs are from sweaters designed by Barb Telford

of Woodsmoke Woolworks.

Photo 4: Musical notes motif

Photo 2: This motif is Scrolls, from A Second Treasury of Knitting

Patterns by Barbara G. Walker. Because of the number of stitches and

rows for this motif, it would be best worked on fine yarn.

Photo 3: Cable motif.

KNITmuch | issue 16

7

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Discover the NEW knitting needles,

crochet hooks, gift sets and

accessories from Lantern Moon!

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Aran

Inspired

Scarf

Inspired

Oceans

by

ANPTmag.com

Smooth Sailing

Socks

Seafaring

Cables

P ullover

Get more

knitting fun in

A NEEDLE PULLING THREAD

Issue60

60

KNITmuch | issue 16

9

Better knitting

starts with the right

accessories

[tools of the trade]

Fiona Stevenson

Making sure you have the right tools for the job gives you the advantage

when you knit.

Knit this Cabled Poncho from Lion Brand with Wool-Ease Thick & Quick yarn

with a free pattern and advice on what knitting tools to use to make knitting

it quick, easy, and fun!

Hello again! I’m making a big cozy poncho using

delightfully squishy Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick &

Quick yarn in the earthy colorway ‘Kale’ using the

free Cabled Poncho pattern by Lion Brand. This yarn

really lives up to its name, and this project knits

up very quickly! Grab your yarn and your pattern,

and now you’re ready to knit...almost. First, you

need the right tools for the job. Let me help you

find some great accessories to make knitting your

poncho a breeze!

As I started on my project, I began to gather all the

accessories I need to make it. Most people think

that you grab yarn and needles and just go! It’s not

that simple. I have a lot of different supplies to get

my knitting done right. I’ve invested a good deal of

money into ensuring I have the best accessories at

my fingertips, and I appreciate every one of them. I

often think of a conversation I had with a man who

was buying some very expensive knitting needles

for his wife. When the total was rung up at the cash

register, he didn’t bat an eye at the cost. He said

that he was a mechanic, and he understood that

he needed to pay whatever it cost to get good

quality tools to make his work easier and better. I

was impressed and realized I didn’t need to be

ashamed of splashing out for the equipment I need

to make my knitting more enjoyable, well-knit, and

professionally finished.

As I knit my poncho, I’ll let you in on the secret

of the tools of the trade that make knitting every

project easier and better. Let’s start with the very

first tools you need to make this Cabled Poncho:

pattern and pattern holder, yarn, and a project bag

to keep them all together.

Photos by Fiona Stevenson


A KNITTER’S PRIDE pattern holder holds a paper printout or tablet

PDF to help your knitting stay on track

True to its name, Lion Brand’s Wool-Ease Thick & Quick knits up superfast and

super squishy!

Pattern

If you haven’t already, you can download this

pattern for free on the Lion Brand website by

following this link: Cabled Poncho. When it comes

to knitting any project, it’s important to see if

any errata (pattern mistakes with corrections) are

posted. I didn’t see any on the website, but as I knit

this project, I did find a few. Here are the corrections

to the pattern:

Row 2: *P2, 3/3 RC, p2, K1, p2, k2, p2;…

Row 4: *P2, k6, p2, K1, p2, k2, p2;…

Row 8: *P2, 3/3 LC, p2, K1, p2, k2, p2;…

If you’ve got a tablet or cell phone, a great

accessory is a holder of some kind. I, however, like

to print my patterns to avoid spending my whole

time squinting at a screen and continually scrolling

back and forth. For this pattern, I increased the size

of my printed page, so it would be easy to see with

a quick glance. Then I placed it in my KNITTER’S

PRIDE Pattern Holder which also has a pocket for

my iPad in case I need to look back to the digital

pattern. With this holder, I can prop my pattern

up on a table, and use the magnetic strip to move

along the rows as I go, so I don’t lose my place. I

can’t even tell you the amount of tinking (knitting

back) and frogging (ripping back) my pattern holder

has saved me from! It also protects my pattern as

I carry it around from place to place. I'm always

knitting on the go.

Yarn

Choose a yarn you love! I mean it! I have been

selling yarn and teaching for over a decade, and

one of the mistakes I see over and over again

is someone choosing bad yarn. Here are my

suggestions when it comes to choosing yarn:

1. The easiest way to make sure your project

comes out the way it’s supposed to is to use the

yarn recommended in the pattern. Unless you

know what you’re doing, substituting yarn can

be disastrous.

2. Use yarn that you enjoy. Working with a yarn

that you don’t like means you’ll spend hours

unpleasantly knitting only to end up with a

project you may not like.

3. It doesn’t have to be expensive to be good. Part

of choosing a yarn you enjoy is making sure you

don’t go broke buying it. If you like it, and can

get it cheap, that's awesome!

4. Don’t work with musty, mildewy, or moth-eaten

yarn. Throw it away and start fresh.

With these ideas in mind, I chose the yarn

recommended for the Cabled Poncho pattern, Lion

Brand Wool-Ease Thick & Quick yarn in the color

172 ‘Kale’. I love this yarn because it’s soft, squishy,

warm, and knits up quickly. Then I went on to get

their recommended needles to start my poncho.

KNITmuch | issue 16

11

Project bags

I have a confession to make, I’m addicted to project

bags. I have a lot of yarn, sure, but I have enough

project bags to hold almost my entire yarn stash. I

just have to have the right bag for the job. I have

tiny ones for socks, two section ones for colorwork,

ones that attach to belt loops for walking and

knitting, long tubes, square fabric yarn bowls, plastic

ones I can see into, and some huge ones for large

projects. I’ve got every color, every shape, every

type you can imagine (and probably some you

couldn’t even imagine if you tried). Well, now you

know, I’m a knitting bag hoarder.

For this project, well of course, I had to start with

a new bag. Because I’m talking about ‘tools of the

trade’, I thought it would be fun to have a bag that

was kind of like a tool belt. This Vivace Accessories

Bag was perfect. And it goes perfectly with my kale

green yarn! Ok, color coordination isn’t the most

important thing, but it sure is fun!

Here are the things I look for in a good project bag:

• It must be big enough to hold my yarn, the

project, and all my accessories.

• No Velcro! Or anything else that can snag and

damage the yarn.

• I like a safe place to store my tablet and pattern

holder.

• Lots of different sized pockets.

• Waterproof is preferred.

Well, that’s a good start on setting up to knit the

Cabled Poncho, but there’s a few more essential

accessories we need to start this project. No knitting

can begin without the right knitting needles, and,

because this is cabled, we need a cable needle,

too. Also, the smallest needle in our tool kit will be

discussed, the yarn needle.

All my knitting tools fit in this Vivace bag with room to spare.


Wood, metal, straight or circular:

Which knitting needle is best for you?

Knitting needles

Except for yarn, there are no more important tools

for any knitting project than the needles! When

I started, I only wanted to work with wooden

needles. They are warm, natural, and comforting.

In the beginning, wood or bamboo needles helped

prevent dropped stitches, because their surface

holds more securely than metal needles. Wooden

needles tend to be less expensive in general

which was also a bonus. However, as I became

a more experienced knitter, my taste in needles

changed. I started to find the courage to pay a

bit more for my knitting tools, and I branched out

into metal needles. There were two immediate

benefits to metal. They are cooler to the touch, and

I tend to run hot, so they feel nicer in my hands.

Furthermore, and most importantly, the stitches

move more smoothly across metal needles making

my tension more even, and allowing me to knit

faster. Now all my needles are metal. I don’t use

acrylic needles, because I find them hard to move

stitches as I work. The surface grips hard to my yarn.

The Cabled Poncho pattern calls for circular needles

as opposed to straights. This is due to the width

and weight of this project which is easier to manage

with the weight distributed on the cord of a circular

needle. I got the KNITTER’S PRIDE SmartStix US

13 [9mm] 32” circular knitting needle to knit my

poncho. What’s unique about these needles are the

marks at 1” increments right on the cord that allow

you to measure your width as you go, to keep an

eye on your gauge. Very cool! Gauge can change

as you move from knitting flat to knitting in the

round, and just generally as you work through a

project. SmartStix are very useful for knitting fitted

garments, but it can’t hurt to keep an eye on the

gauge of this poncho project.

Thick & Quick Cabled Poncho is underway using all the tools of the knitting

trade to make it perfect.

Which is best - wood, metal, straight, or circular?

KNITmuch | issue 16

13

Wooden straights or metal circulars? I chose the metal SmartStix circulars (in

center) to knit my Cabled Poncho.

These KNIT PICKS Rainbow cable needles are what I used to make my cabled

poncho. Check out the little grooves that hold the stitches in place. Very smart!


If you are a newer knitter you might want to get

wooden circulars to help keep your stitches on the

needle so you won’t have dropped stitches while

you’re cabling. Acrylic needles also hold the yarn in

place, but may hold it too much making it hard to

shift your stitches and work quickly. However, these

needles tend to be cheaper to buy, so if you need

to save a bit, they may be your best bet.

It’s possible to knit on straight needles, but they

need to be long to accommodate all the bulky

stitches. In the photo are KNITTER’S PRIDE Ginger

9mm (US 13) 14” needles which will hold all the

stitches of the poncho if you really squish them.

Cable needles

With the Cabled Poncho make sure to put a cable

needle in your knitting tool kit. You won’t get past

Row 2 without one! There are many kinds of cable

needles. You can use a regular DPN needle as a

cable needle, but there’s a danger your stitches may

slide off. Double pointed needles are designed to

make stitches slide easily for happy knitting, but you

don’t want your cable stitches to slide too easily.

You need a little bit of resistance to keep them in

place until you’re ready to knit them. KNIT PICKS

Rainbow Cable Knitting Needles (pictured left) have

little grooves in the wood which is just enough

texture to keep your stitches secure. I used these on

my poncho, and didn’t drop a single stitch!

U-bend cable needles keep your stitches in place

with a deep curve. This is a safe way to cable

without dropped stitches. It takes a little more time

to slide them back on your needles to knit your

cables, but they do ensure secure cabling without

scrabbling to pick up lost loops. If you’re a newbie

cabler these may be the best bet for you.

Whatever kind of cable needle you choose, make

sure it’s the right size for the Wool-Ease Thick &

Quick. It’s a large size recommended for US 13

[9mm] needles.

What’s up next?

Well, now you’ve got your needles, yarn, and

pattern all set and ready to go. There’s a few more

essentials that you need to have in order to make

the Cabled Poncho. I’ll share ideas on stitch markers,

measuring tools, and yarn cutters to help you

choose the best accessories.

Knitting essentials: Why it’s the small

things that count

It’s all about the little knitting

essentials that you need to add to

your knitting bag to complete this

project: stitch markers, measuring

tools, and yarn cutters.

Stitch Markers

Stitch markers - you can never

have too many, am I right? I

have so many it’s ridiculous! But

there’s more to the simple stitch

marker than you think. For this

project, I recommend a couple

of different types to help you

get it done right.

The first thing you need to do

is to make sure you have large

stitch markers. With a 9mm

(US 13) needle you’re gonna

need them big! You need either

locking or ring stitch markers to

mark off the cable pattern repeat

sections. Doing this helps you

keep track of the pattern as you

go, and reduces the number of

mistakes which decreases the

amount of swearing you do as

you angrily rip back row upon

row to fix them. Save yourself the

stress! You can use stitch markers

to successfully keep track of the

repeats in the cable pattern of

your poncho.

I also use stitch markers to keep

track of a mistake that I need to

fix later. Yes, I still make mistakes…

all the time! I place a locking

stitch marker at the spot that

needs fixing. If I’ve dropped a

stitch, a locking stitch marker can

hold it in place until I return to the

place where I can pick it back up.

Let’s add stitch markers, measuring tapes, and

cable needles to the knitting bag for our Thick &

Quick Cabled Poncho.

This helpful KNITTER'S PRIDE Mindful Stitch

Marker kit offers a variety of options to help your

knitting along.

Mindful measuring tapes are pretty and practical!

There’s one more main function

of a stitch marker for knitters in

the know. I’ll tell you more about

the final use for stitch markers

which are as progress keepers to

keep the knitting mojo going.

Measuring tapes and

gauge rulers

To make a Cabled Poncho you

absolutely need a measuring

tape, and I recommend a gauge

ruler as well. First, make sure you

have a measuring tape in your

knitting bag so you’ll be able

to keep track of the length of

your project. Make sure it’s long

enough to properly measure

this oversized cabled poncho. I

like retractable measuring tapes

like the Mindful Tape Measure

pictured left. They are tidy and

easy to pack. I have as many

measuring tapes as I have

projects, because I like to place

one in every knitting bag. The

total number of them is a secret

I will not share here, but imagine

a huge amount of WIP’s (works in

progress) and UFOs (unfinished

objects), then double that

number and you might be close

to it. Retractable measuring tapes

are essential tools for me.

KNITmuch | issue 16

15

Use this handy UNIQUE Ruler to figure out your

gauge and check your needle size.

You can take this Clover yarn cutter anywhere!

I also use a small straight ruler

for measuring gauge swatches.

The flexibility of a measuring

tape is less accurate than a clean

edge of a straight ruler. Although

the Cabled Poncho gauge isn’t

essential as it’s not fitted, it’s still

recommended you gauge your

work to get the best results. You

want a straight hard plastic or

wood ruler to make sure you’ve

got the right numbers.

The UNIQUE Ruler does double

duty as it allows you to check the

gauge of your needles too. I’m

forever ending up with a pile of

needles in my knitting bag, and

most of them have illegible size

numbers. Putting the tip of your

needle through the matching

hole quickly solves the mystery of

‘what size is this needle?’.

Yarn Cutters

Ok, ok, I mostly mean scissors,

but there are other options for

cutting your yarn than just a

regular pair of scissors. Even

scissors themselves come in a

wide variety of options. There

are folding scissors and pen snips

that fit neatly into any small

knitting kit. Fancy embroidery

scissors that look fabulous, but

aren’t merely pretty. These small

scissors help you get precise

cuts for your steeking projects.

There are scissors with clips that

are guaranteed to keep closed

to keep everything safe in your

knitting bag, and snips with

guard tips that do the same.

I have many, many scissors, but

my favorite cutting tool is my

Clover Yarn Cutter Pendant, and

I’ll tell you why. This convenient

cutter has been designed

specially to have all the sharp

edges covered which is great

for protecting all your yarn and

accessories from damage, but

that’s not the best part. Because

the blades are tucked away under

metal tips, it’s impossible for

them to accidentally cut yourself

or hurt anyone. They’re safe

for airplane travel or anywhere

else that bringing a sharp pair of

scissors would be unwise: toddler

play groups, indoor playgrounds,

public transit, driving with your

crazy brother-in-law through a

bumpy back road shortcut. You

can safely cut your yarn wherever

you like. Since it’s a pendant it

can also be worn around your

neck, very convenient! Eliminate

all the wasted time searching for

where you last put down your

scissors. If I had a top ten list

for knitting tools, my yarn cutter

pendant would be on it.

What’s up next?

Is your knitting kit starting to

fill up with useful tools for your

Cabled Poncho project? Good!

Now that we’ve put together the

necessities to get you started,

let’s add a few more very helpful

tools to your knitting bag to help

you knit faster and better.


3 special little tools for smooth knitting

and a professional look

This Cabled Poncho is knitting up Thick & Quick!

These are the items that I could

knit without, but I don’t wanna!

When I start a knitting project,

I want a progress keeper to

keep me motivated. While I

knit, I love having a row counter,

sometimes two or three for a

really complicated one, to help

me keep track. And finally, when

the knitting is all done, I want

to have a simple, easy blocking

system to make my hand knits

neat and professional looking.

Row counters

Although some knitters don’t

consider row counters essential,

I consider them absolutely

necessary in my knitting tool

kits. I used to track my knitting

in the old school way of pencil

scratches on the printed pattern.

Then I had a few troubles with

my note-taking, and I found

myself turning to row counters

for the solution. The first

problem was when a sweater

I was knitting had several

different decreases and increases

happening at the same time,

and my little scratches kept on

getting messed up. When I’d

put the project down for a while,

then try to figure out where I’d

left off, I was lost. I went out and

bought two different colored

row counters and keeping track

became a lot easier.

It also solved the problem of

finding a pen or pencil which

always seem to disappear into

the ether when I need them.

And, I was always losing the

paper on which I was keeping

track. I have a busy life with many,

many details to manage. Papers

are so easily lost in the shuffle.

Row counters are used only for

knitting, so they don’t stray far

from my knitting bag like a pen

would. They’re often brightly

colored and unique in shape

whereas one paper looks an

awful lot like another.

A row counter like this Mindful Row Counter

makes keeping track of your pattern easy.

I love the simplicity of a quick

click to move the counter

forward. Anything that speeds

up my knitting is welcome. One

of my favorite row counters

is a Mini Kacha-Kacha which

has a locking mechanism on

it. I started using row counters

when I had twin toddlers in my

life, and the fun of clicking my

row counters was too much

temptation for a little one to

resist. The kacha-kacha has a

little locking mechanism that

stops tiny fingers from playing

havoc with my row count. It also

means you can throw it in your

knitting bag without accidental

clicks.

Lately, I’ve been in love with the

Row Counter App on my phone.

It allows me to download my

pattern right into it, and has

settings to run multiple row

counters simultaneously on a

project. I always have my phone

with me, so I always have my

row counter.

I have row counters that I wear

as a ring or bracelet, that sit on

my needles, and that are voice

activated. There are so many row

counters to try, you’ll find one

that works best for your knitting. I

suggest you simplify your knitting

life, and use a row counter to

keep track of the cables on your

Cabled Poncho project.

This helpful and colorful row counter is worn as a

ring, so it never gets lost.

KNITmuch | issue 16

17

Enjoy the encouragement of a progress keeper!

See how quickly your cable knits up with chunky

Thick & Quick yarn and big needles.

These beautiful blue Mindful Blockers make blocking

so much easier, and that makes me happy.

My finished Cabled Poncho is made with these

needles and super squishy Wool-Ease Thick &

Quick yarn.

Progress keepers

What’s a progress keeper?

Well, it’s a special kind of stitch

marker that creates a bit of a

psychological boost for knitters.

Sometimes knitting can seem to

take forever! I call this the Black

Hole of Knitting. You knit and

knit and knit for hours, but when

you look at your project, it seems

to have hardly grown at all. A

special stitch marker attached to

a stitch at the beginning of your

knitting session allows you to see

just exactly how much you’ve

accomplished. It's a morale

booster that keeps you going

through the long hours to the

project’s completion. A progress

keeper can be as basic as using

a spare locking stitch marker or

a safety pin. If you wanna get

fancy, you can buy a precious

handmade progress keeper at

your local yarn store (LYS), online,

or at a fiber festival booth. Any

charm with a clasp will do. I have

a pile of them from really pretty,

to pretty silly. No matter what

type of progress keeper you

use, make sure you use a unique

marker that you won’t confuse

for a regular stitch marker. Other

than that, go wild and have fun

with this friendly little knitter’s

helper.

Blockers

To make the cables of your

poncho really come to life, you

need to block them. There are all

kinds of blocking tools out there. I

found, through trial and error, the

blocking equipment that works

best for my knitting projects.

I recommend having blocking

mats on hand. I use blocking

mats for pinning down my knits

without putting holes in my

furniture. The blocking mats I

use are interlocking floor or play

mats that I bought at my local

hardware store. I love that I can

make any sized blocking area

that I need!

The other thing you need are

blocking pins. The pins need

to be wide enough at the top

that your stitches can’t slide off

them. You can use simple T-Pins

which are nice and inexpensive.

I found, however, that on a big

project like this poncho, it was

time consuming and more than

just a little annoying to put all the

pins in and pull them out after

drying. Discovering KNITTER’S

PRIDE Knit Blockers made my

life so much easier! Each blocker

has a plastic handle with multiple

pins in it. This saves me a lot of

time pinning down my projects

and taking them off. They make

the blocked edges more even

as well. They come in a bunch of

different colors which just adds

fun to the whole process. I have

three sets of knit blockers which

means I can handle blocking

any sized project. I have a white

set, rainbow ones, and just got

these really pretty blue KNITTER’S

PRIDE Mindful Knit Blockers.

When it comes to my knitting,

I always make sure I have the

best tools for the job. Sure, I

spend a bit more, but anything

that adds ease, calm, and speed

when I knit is worth it. A builder

needs the right tools. And I am

a builder of amazing knits. Get

what you need to do the job

right the first time.


Get that warm feeling with this knitted

cable poncho [free pattern]

So now we have everything

we need, including the special

little extra knitting tools to make

knitting a pleasant experience.

And here we are at last! It's the

reveal of my Wool-Ease Thick

& Quick Lion Brand Cabled

Poncho. It all started with an

online search for an oversized

poncho to keep me warm, which

ended when I found the Cabled

Poncho pattern. I loved the look

of the oversized, but understated

poncho. I kept to the pattern’s

recommended yarn, Lion Brand

Wool-Ease Thick & Quick, and

chose the color ‘Kale’. Trying

to expand the colors in my

wardrobe, which tend towards

blue and black, I chose this

earthy green color for a change.

When I got the yarn, I was really

happy with how soft and squishy

it was, but I was worried it would

be too dark to show the cables. I

shouldn’t have been concerned,

because they look beautiful!!

Once I had the yarn, I printed

up the pattern, put it in my

holder, and started gathering

all the tools I needed to make

my poncho. I was eyeing the

KNITTER’S PRIDE Mindful

Collection for a while, because

I loved the color and I’m

always in need of more knitting

accessories. I have startitis,

which is a condition where one

pathologically starts new projects

without finishing the current

one. Starting a new project is

one of my greatest joys, so I do…

frequently.

This means I have a lot of

unfinished projects. With most of

my tools in different knitting bags,

I needed a few new ones to fill

my project bag for this poncho. I

got the entire collection except

the measuring tape which I

already had on hand. The tools

in the Mindful collection included

stitch markers (with a free

accessory bag), measuring tape,

row counter, and knit blockers.

The rest of the knitting tools I

found around my studio, and I

was ready to start.

Next, I chose my needles and

cable needles, checked my gauge,

and cast on! As I said, the cast on

is always my favorite part. It’s so

exciting; the possibility of a perfect

cabled poncho before me.

The cables look beautiful! Whyever did I worry?

The rest of this poncho was

mostly easy and quick, but there

was one small hiccup at the

beginning. As I began to knit

through the rows of the cable

repeat, I noticed a few small

errors, and I corrected them on

my printed pattern.

After I corrected those few

little mistakes in the pattern, I

breezed through the project.

With big needles and big yarn, it

knit up very fast. I’ll admit that

I made a few small mistakes

especially when I knit tired

or with too many distractions

around, but I was happy they

were all simple fixes.

KNITmuch | issue 16

19

Tada! I’m ready to face the cool, crisp winds of fall in my new Cabled Poncho.

The Knitter’s Pride Mindful Collection: Stitch markers with free project bag,

measuring tape, row counter, and knit blockers

Fiona Stevenson

www.fionaknits.com

It was just the occasional purl when I was

supposed to knit or knit stitch instead of a purl. All

I had to do was mark them with a stitch marker,

then drop down when I got back to the right

spot and change the mistake. Surprisingly, this

was the very first cabled knit project in which I

didn’t at all make a booboo in the cable. Having

my row counter close at hand helped, but it was

the pattern holder with a large print copy of the

cable repeat instructions that really kept me on

track. I could just glance up, and double check

the stitches of any row. I was thrilled to get to the

end of my project without having to fix a single

cabling mistake. YAY!

Once I was done knitting, I was very happy

to have the extra set of knit blockers from my

Mindful collection, because it took that and my

other two sets of blockers to pin down this huge

poncho. The blocking really brought the cables to

life! The poncho did take an annoyingly long time

to dry, but I really soaked it good so I could block

it right. I really wanted the cables to pop!

After it dried, the only thing I had left to do was

sew up the shoulder seam to create my poncho

which was made simple with the graphic in the

pattern showing where to do it. I made sure to

make a strong seam, because the poncho has

a heavy fabric that will pull on it. I like to knit

things that last, don’t you? After seaming the

shoulder, my poncho was complete. I was so

excited, that I threw it on and went for a walk in

my neighborhood to show it off. Unfortunately,

I didn’t see another person on my walk, so no

compliments, but I was blissfully cozy and warm

in my beautiful new Cabled Poncho. And here it is

for you to see! What do you think?

I had a lot of fun sharing with you the knitting

accessories that made knitting this poncho with

Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick & Quick yarn so

much easier. I hope you found some new tools

of the trade to put to work in your next knitting

project. If you’re working on your own Cabled

Poncho, share your photos with me, tag me, fiona.

knits, in your Instagram posts.


don't miss these FREE

projects & tutorials online!

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KNITmuch | issue 16

21

Stay on trend with Bella Chenille Big Glimmer:

Why this yarn is a favorite!

Cynthia MacDougall

Bella Chenille Big Glimmer yarn

I couldn’t resist! This i-cord is 7⁄8” [2cm] wide! I laid

it over a ruler so you can see!

You can use Bella Chenille Big Glimmer to make

this wreath.

We’re kicking off 2022 in a BIG

way with Bella Chenille Big by

Universal Yarn! Bella Chenille has

been around for a while, but in

this series, I’m looking at the new

Glimmer line.

Bella Chenille Big is a 100%

polyester chenille yarn, and in

each ball of Glimmer, 6% of the

polyester fibers are metallized,

giving each of the 12 colors a soft

shimmer that children and adults

alike are bound to love.

It’s really challenging to get a

photo to show off a shimmer or

metallic fleck in yarn. You can

see white flecks in the purple

ball. That’s the light catching the

metallized fibers!

A super bulky yarn, the

recommended gauge for Bella

Chenille Big Glimmer is about

6 stitches to 4” [10cm]! The

recommended needles are,

well, huge, at size 13 or 15 [9 or

10mm], so, if you want a quick

scarf, 12-15 stitches ought to

do it! It also makes the biggest

i-cord ever!

Bella Chenille Big Glimmer

comes in 12 sumptuous shades.

Drift (white), Believe (pale

pink), Dewdrop (pale gray), and

Reflection (pale blue) would

all make great baby play mats.

If you prefer jewel tones for

babies, Thorn, Dreams, Thistle,

Primrose, and Starlight (rich

shades of green, navy, teal, red,

and purple respectively) fill the

bill, and if neutrals rock your

world, the aforementioned Drift

and Dewdrop can be paired

with Whispers (medium gray),

Hourglass (sandy beige), and

Magic (shimmery black).

Each ball of this big yarn has

200g (about 7oz), with 87 yds

[80m], which minimizes the

frequency of yarn joins.

One ball of Bella Chenille Big will

make a hat, two will make a cowl,

and a whole bunch will make one

of those hooded-blanket-withsleeves

that are all the rage this

winter (and perfect for my chilly

basement!). There’s no better

yarn for trapping air and making

one stylishly cozy than Bella

Chenille Big Glimmer!

Other cool (well, warm) ideas

for this yarn include a top-down

capelet using – or adapting – a

chunky knit, round yoke sweater

pattern; a bed or TV watching

jacket; a cozy tuck-in for around

a baby’s car seat; some truly

fuzzy slippers; a hot water bottle

cover; bed scarf; even a festive

Christmas wreath! If I had a

supply of Thorn or Primrose, I

might be tempted to adapt this

wreath pattern I did two years

ago! I wonder if I have a cable

needle that’s big enough!

This wreath was originally knit in

double knitting weight yarn, but

I could use Thorn or Primrose to

adapt it on a large scale for Bella

Chenille Big Glimmer.

22

KNITmuch | issue 16

Knitting large-scale samples:

Why it’s an important time saver

Here, I’m doing what I do - sampling. I’m not afraid

to sample with a yarn, new or old. I use scraps of

old yarns to experiment with new stitches I want to

try from my stitch dictionaries, or from patterns I’d

like to make (but only after I know I’ll enjoy working

the design). I’ve learned that p3tbl is not my friend,

especially on huge needles!

Bella Chenille Big Glimmer is a big yarn that uses

big needles, and, since I don’t knit on this scale very

often, I wanted to get better acquainted.

Knitting needles vary between sizes; with smaller

size needles, the size increments are small. US

sizes 3, 4, and 5, for example equate to 3.25mm,

3.5mm, and 3.75mm on the metric system, so the

difference between each of the sizes is only ¼ of a

millimeter. This allows a knitter to get very close to

the recommended gauge.

When you go up to the larger sizes, there is a

whole millimeter between sizes - US sizes 11, 13,

and 15 measure 8mm, 9mm, and 10mm respectively.

Beyond those sizes, the difference is even larger,

which means there can be a sizable difference

in samples, even when you change by only one

needle size.

For my experiment, I picked 13 and 15 needles

[9mm and 10mm], as recommended on the ball

band, and added size 17 [12mm]. I cast on the

same number of stitches for each sample. I made

the gray samples with size 13 [9mm] needles, the

purple ones with size 15 [10mm], and the pink

samples with size 17 [12mm] needles.

Bella Chenille Big Glimmer in Whispers, a soft gray

Photos by Cynthia MacDougall

KNITmuch | issue 16

23

Garter stitch samples

In this photo, even though the

pink sample is further away, the

openness of its fabric compared

with the gray one at the front is

visible

As the photo shows, there’s a big

difference between the size 13

and size 17 samples. If only you

could feel them! I took them to

my local guild meeting and we

had a hearty discussion about

them.

The samples worked on the

smallest needles (gray) had a lot

of integrity, and were almost stiff.

The garter stitch would make a

sturdy play mat, but would be

too stiff to tuck in around a car

seat, for example. More flexibility

is desired for a garment.

In this photo, once again, the

gray sample worked on the

smaller size 13 [9mm] needles is

quite a bit tighter than the pink

sample at the back, which was

done on size 17 [12mm] needles.

The pink samples, worked on the

largest needles (size 17 [12mm])

were a bit ‘squishy’. They have

good drape and would make

a decent lap robe, but might

not hold up well enough for a

large afghan. They’re also a bit

loose to put around really small

children - little fingers might get

caught in the loosely knit fabric.

The purple squares, to quote

Goldilocks, are ‘just right’ - not

too tight and not too loose - so,

for my knitting, size 15 [10mm]

works nicely. The ball band gives

a range of 5 to 7 sts to 4” [10cm],

and my tension with 10mm was

right in the middle, at 6 sts to 4”.

Some knitters find sampling to be

a waste of precious knitting time.

In my experience, sampling is

often a time saver as it helps me

decide if I like the fabric the yarn

will produce, and I can keep the

samples for future reference. (Yes,

I have bins of knitted samples.

I still come across an odd one

where I look at it and instantly

remember what I liked or disliked

about the yarn or the stitch

pattern I made with it!)

If you’ve never worked with Bella

Chenille Big or Bella Chenille Big

Glimmer, I encourage you to knit

a sample or two before tucking

into a large project. The samples

work up quickly, and you’ll

know soon enough what kind

of project your yarn wants to be

‘when it grows up’.

Stocking stitch samples

24

KNITmuch | issue 16

4 ways for weaving in ends when using

chenille yarn, big or small

Because a single strand of Bella

Chenille Big Glimmer is so big,

in this picture it’s easy to see

where I’ve woven the yarn end

on the back of the gray garter

stitch sample.

the opposite direction (you can

do this on a different row of the

knitting). Anchor the end of the

sewing thread, and clip both the

thread and the excess yarn.

PURPLE! You can see white flecks in this photo

where the camera picks up the glimmer in its

own way.

One of the biggest challenges

with chenille yarns (any chenille

yarn, not just this big one), is

how to handle weaving in ends,

both at the cast on and cast off

and when joining in a new yarn.

Below are four ways of doing it.

You can decide which you like

the best. Method 1 works for

weaving in ends at the cast on

and cast off. Methods 2 and 3

work for both weaving in ends

and joining in a new yarn, and

method 4 makes a continuous

strand of yarn, so it is good for

joining yarn.

Method 1 - Weaving in as you

would other yarns

Thread a large tapestry needle

(size 16 is probably the smallest

you can pull off, but I’ve found

a size 13 works best - you could

even use a bodkin) with a full

strand of yarn. Leave a good

length of yarn tail - this bulky

yarn uses up more yarn than you

think! Weave in the ends as you

would with any other yarn. The

chenille strands will mesh together

somewhat, but this will still leave a

fairly bulky, noticeable result.

The yarn tail woven in on the bottom left corner

adds thickness

Method 2 - Sew in with a

matching sewing thread

I like this method. Thread a

sewing needle with a strand of

sewing thread in the same color

as the Bella Chenille Big Glimmer.

Fold the thread through the eye

and knot the ends together. Lay

the strand of yarn across the

back of the work. Put the needle

through the work and bring it

back to the front, being sure to

catch a strand of yarn. Loop the

needle through the two strands

of thread (at the knot) to anchor

it. Taking care to catch both the

yarn tail and a loop of yarn in

the knitted fabric, sew the yarn

end down along the back of the

fabric. Draw the sewing thread

snugly so it’s hidden between

the fuzzy chenille strands. Sew

down for a minimum of 2” [5cm],

then, for added assurance, turn

the yarn end back and stitch it

down for a ½” to 1” [1-2cm] in

Look closely at the top left corner to see where I

folded the yarn end back on itself when I sewed

it down.

Method 3 - Sew in the core

thread

Most chenille yarns have a

core thread (often white) that

binds the fluffy chenille threads

together during the spinning

process. Bella Chenille Big

Glimmer is no exception.

The fuzzy strands of purple are pulled back to

show the white core threads, which I’ve already

laid out to begin Method 4.

KNITmuch | issue 16

25

For this method, choose a thin

tapestry needle (size 20 or

maybe 22 will work) and trim

the yarn end to 4-6” [10-15cm].

Pull out the chenille fibers until

there is about ½” [1cm] of fibers

remaining at the base of the

yarn tail. Thread the tapestry

needle with the two white core

threads. Weave the core threads

around the back of the stitches

in the knitted fabric. As with the

sewing thread method, pull the

core threads snugly so they hide

in between the chenille fibers.

Secure the ends well and trim

away the excess.

Method 4 - Tie the core

threads together

I discovered this method when

I found a knot in the yarn. Pull

out the chenille fibers on both

the old and new strands of

yarn for about 2” to 2½” [5-

6cm] - just enough to knot the

core threads together. Take one

core thread from each ball, and

double knot them, bringing the

chenille fibers from both strands

together. Repeat with the other

core thread from each ball. I use

square (aka reef) knots.

Now, take one strand from

the first knot and one from

the second knot and tie them

together tightly, then do the

same with the other strands. Trim

the core threads close enough

so they can’t be seen below the

chenille pile.

A less noticeable and less bulky way of weaving

in yarn ends is to strip the chenille fibers back and

weave in the core threads.

The strands from the first knot show at the top

of the purple strand and the strands from the

second knot are below it.

If you look very closely, you’ll see a small white dot

(that isn’t part of the glimmer) where I’ve cut the

core threads away.

Another knotted join can

be found in this post,

How to join skeins of Bella Chenille Big yarn

where Michelle Nussey reviews

Bella Chenille Big Glimmer’s sister

yarn, Bella Chenille Big. Michelle

employed a method known as

the Weaver’s knot. I was raised to

complete my needlework without

knots, but there are no knitting

police, so just because I’m stuck

on that philosophy doesn’t mean

you have to be!

26

KNITmuch | issue 16

What you need to know about knitting with

ease (trendy pattern - free)

The project I chose for Bella

Chenille Big Glimmer is Snug

as a Bug. I fell in love with it

when I first saw it in the product

literature. It couldn’t have a more

appropriate name!

This project makes a great

fashion statement, belted as

it is in this photo. Unbelted, it

turns into a cozy reading or

tv-watching jacket. It is welland-truly

oversized - the bust

measurement on this one-size

garment measures 68¾” [175cm]!

The kick pleat at the back of the

neck brings that in a bit, (the

pattern says the finished bust is

65½” [166cm]), but it’s still plenty

big enough for most people!

The difference between the

wearer’s bust and the garment’s

finished bust is called ease. Ease

is necessary for garments to fit

well while offering enough room

for the wearer to move freely.

Generally speaking, 2-3” [5-

7.5cm] of ease makes a

standard-fitting garment, 3-4”

[7.5- 10cm] of ease makes a

loose-fitting garment, and 5” or

more [12.5cm] makes an oversize

garment. Some garments, such

as socks, camisoles, and gloves

even have negative ease where

the garments are knit smaller

than the wearer’s measurement,

so they cling to the body more.

There are other factors to

consider, including the type of

garment and the thickness of

the fabric. A vest or cardigan, for

example, will be worn over other

layers of clothing so more ease

is desired.

When you knit with a fine yarn,

you create a thin fabric. A

garment knit with just a couple

of inches of ease can fit well, in

part because the fabric itself is

quite thin.

When you knit with a super

bulky yarn like Bella Chenille Big

Glimmer, you have to allow for

more ease - not only to account

for the thickness of the fabric (my

stocking stitch sample measures

about 7/16” [1cm] thick), but also

to have it fit over other layers

of clothing. With Snug as a Bug,

the drop-shoulder styling and

oversized sleeves create bulk at

the underarms too, resulting in

the need for even more ease.

I loved this pattern on sight, as

I said, but the knitter in me feels

that those sleeves are impractical

to wear as a knitting jacket. I also

suspect that straight needles will

get hung up in the excess fabric

of the sleeves. In my next and final

article of this series, I do a slight

modification for the sleeves and

the body to try and get those

sleeves tamed down a bit - for

my knitting pleasure, and perhaps

yours - and reduce some of the

bulk at the underarms.

Here’s the Snug as a Bug knitting

pattern so you can get started.

Let's see next my modifications,

made with Bella Chenille Big

Glimmer. I’m doing mine in

purple!

How cozy is this? Left open or stylishly belted, the

Snug as a Bug jacket will keep you warm!

The kick pleat at the back of the jacket adds

character, but doesn’t change the bust

measurement much at all.

KNITmuch | issue 16

27

Modifying a knitting pattern to remove bulk

makes this jacket a nice fit

In this article, I share my experience and

adaptations for Snug as a Bug. My goals are to

remove some of the bulk under the arms and

shape the sleeves to make them more practical to

wear when knitting.

I cast on the stitches for the back. About 6” [15cm]

in, I discovered that my tension was not quite what

it was in my sample! According to the schematic,

the back should measure 35¼” across, and mine

was barely making 29”! What the?

I noted that when working with larger size needles,

it can be a challenge to get the exact tension

because of the increments between needle sizes.

Here’s another example of how sampling can save

you time - because I made my samples, I already

knew that going up to size 17 [12mm] needles

would leave me with a more open fabric, which

might sag more than I want.

A jacket with a 58” [148cm] total circumference still

gives me plenty of ease, so I forged on. Before I

leave this subject, though, I want to remind you that

even in a ridiculously oversized garment, tension is

important! Also, gauge swatches save time.

Even though I’d have been closer to gauge with the larger, pink sample,

sometimes it’s better to go with the fabric you prefer and adjust your pattern

(or expectations) to suit.

To reduce some of the bulk at the underarm, I

notched out the back and front pieces to make

a square armhole. The sleeves themselves were

very large at almost 37½” [95cm] wide – almost 19”

[48cm] deep once attached to the garment, so I

made them narrower – 32” [80cm] wide, giving an

armhole depth of 16” [40cm]. This is still a lot as the

armhole depth on my loosest-fitting winter coat is

only 13” [33cm].

I decided to add strength to the shoulders by

picking up the stitches at the top and knitting the

sleeves down. To add to my future knitting comfort,

I also decided to taper the sleeves. This was done

by decreasing at both ends of every 4th row. I even

incorporated a decrease row into the 6 garter stitch

rows at the bottom of the sleeves. If you want to

make bottom-up sleeves, I will share that I ended

with 37 stitches on my cast-off edge.

I adjusted my copy of the pattern to look much like

the red lines in the schematic.

Because of my gauge discovery, I had to re-jig my

numbers, but only a little.

Another small adjustment I made was to the pleat

at the back of the neck. Rather than sewing it after

the fact, I decided to knit that pleat in, knowing that

this would make the pleat very sturdy. To do this, all

I had to do was rearrange the stitches at the center

back.

I took the 8 center stitches and numbered them as

they appeared in knitting order on the left needle: 8,

7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1.

For the first half of the pleat, I put the first stitch (1)

onto a stitch holder and held it at the front, did an

ssk with stitches 2 and 3, then an ssk with stitches

1 and 4. For the other half, I put stitch 5 on a stitch

holder and held it at the back of the work, did a

k2tog with stitches 7 and 6, then did a k2tog with

stitches 8 and 5.

To finish the garment, I used mattress stitch for the

seams, which, given the thickness of the yarn, went

relatively easily.


To change the fit of the Snug as a Bug jacket, I notched

out armholes, extended the sleeves to accommodate the

notches, and tapered the lower section of the sleeve.

Overall, I’m very pleased with the finished product.

The sleeves are still larger than I had hoped and the

armhole depth could have been shortened even

more, for my 5’2” [163cm] frame. My gauge fauxpas

left me with a jacket that has a good, sturdy

fabric that’ll be disinclined to sag, and still fits me

with sufficient ease.

I have more plans for Bella Chenille Big Glimmer. I

have a few balls of pink, a couple of white, and one

or two of gray. I want to take one of my top-down

sweater patterns and make a little capelet to go

over my shoulders for when I’m watching TV on

nights when Snug as a Bug is going to be too warm.

Spring is coming!

My modified version of Snug as a Bug

Cynthia MacDougall


KNITmuch | issue 16

29

Knitting with the NEW

Universal Yarn MAGNOLIA

Cindy O'Malley

Universal Yarn Magnolia is available in 14 different

colors. My color choices are Frayed Denim, Key Lime,

and Citrus Leaf.

I have the

pleasure of

working with

a brandnew

yarn.

Universal

Yarn

Magnolia is

a super fine

weight yarn

that blends

modal with

cashmere

to create

soft knitted

garments

perfect for

spring.

Magnolia

is available

in 14 different colors and exudes softness with a

shimmery glow that’s luxurious next to the skin. I’ve

selected 3 colors to work with: Frayed Denim, Key

Lime and Citrus Leaf. Although there’s still snow

on the ground where I live, these colors have me

anxiously anticipating the warm and sunny days

ahead.

Each 3.5oz [100g] skein contains 361yds [330m],

with a recommended knitting needle of US 1-3

[2.25–3.25mm] = 27 - 32 sts x 35 - 40 rows = 4”

[10cm] in stocking stitch. The recommended crochet

hook is US B/1-1E/4 [2.25-3.25mm] = 22 - 27 sc x

26 - 31 rows = 4” [10cm].

Magnolia is a blend of 95% modal and 5%

cashmere with a very tight twist, which makes for

easy care - machine washable in cold water and

tumble dry at low temperature. I don’t let my

knitted garments tumble to dry, but rather pull

them from the dryer while still damp and lay flat to

finish drying. I’ll put this to the test for my swatches

to see how they react.

You may be wondering, what is modal? I knew it

was a cellulose-based fiber, but I did a little research

and discovered that modal is a semi-synthetic fiber

made from the pulp of beech trees. It’s breathable,

soft, durable and long lasting. The fabrics created

from modal are often used in underwear, bedding,

activewear, t-shirts and eco-friendly pillows. modal

was first developed in Japan in 1951 as an alternative

to silk and is very similar to regular viscose rayon.

However, it’s also stronger, more breathable, and

can withstand excessive moisture. It’s known for

wicking away moisture which makes it perfect for

spring and summer knitwear.

There are a number of sites that describe the

processing of the fiber and the characteristics of

the fabrics created from it. Here’s a quote from

one of the sites I visited in my research (www.

sustainablejungle.com).

“What does modal fabric feel like? Like a cozy,

breathable, soft hug.”

That totally describes this yarn. I consider it one

of those comfort skeins you squeeze and hold up

to your cheek to alleviate stress. I’m really looking

forward to knitting with it.

As I mentioned previously, this is a brand new yarn.

When I initially planned my projects, there were

no patterns designed for it, nor pictures of yarn

and color samples. I selected my colors based on

little square color boxes. When the yarn arrived,

I got excited. It was so soft and the colors were

magnificent. I held a skein up to my cheek and

that’s when it told me what it wanted to be. I didn’t

completely abandon my original thoughts, just

tweaked them a little.

For my projects, I’ll be making a summer top, but

since it’s not quite summer yet, I’ll also be making a

little cardigan. To complete the ensemble, I decided

to weave a wrap using all three colors that’ll make a

perfect cover up over a sun dress.

Photos by Cindy O'Malley


Knitting swatches for gauge, needles,

color, and pattern: It’s important

My first swatch was mainly to

check the recommended gauge

and needle size. Since the

recommended gauge is stated

as a range (27-32 sts x 35-40

R = 4” with a US Size 1-3 [2.25-

3.25mm] needles), I opted to use

a US 3 [3.25mm] needle. I cast

on 35 sts, knit 4 garter stitch rows,

proceeded with a slipped stitch

edge and 2 garter stitches at

each side, and then the stocking

stitch for the main field. My results

before laundering were 27 sts and

35 rows = 4” and 26 sts, and 35

rows after laundering – Right on

the recommended gauge.

The first swatch using Key Lime yielded a gauge

of 26 sts and 35 rows after laundering, using a US

3 [3.25mm] needle.

Summer fibers are typically

cotton or linen which create

beautiful knitwear but can be

a little hard on the hands while

knitting as there is no elasticity

to them. Not so with Magnolia. I

found it very easy to work with;

not hard on the hands at all. It

has more give to it, but it tends

to be a little on the slippery side.

I debated switching from metal

to wood needles, but found my

hands adapted to the metal

after a few more rows. Before

laundering, you could see a slight

difference in my swatch, but after

laundering, it was perfect, and

the fabric drape, gorgeous.

The purpose of my second

swatch was to measure gauge

and determine the needle size

for the pattern of the T-shirt I’m

making. There are two different

stitch patterns used in the shirt,

but I decided I wouldn’t use one

of them as I felt it was a little

too open for my liking. Instead, I

sampled 4 different patterns on

one swatch beginning with the

Broken Garter stitch pattern.

I used the same number of

stitches and needle size (26st x

36R in Broken Garter St on US3

[3.25mm]) as the first swatch

since that’s the suggested needle

size for the pattern.

Since I didn’t do a 4” x

4” swatch for each pattern

section, my gauge is not really

a true measurement, but it’s an

indication of how the fabric will

behave after laundering. My

gauge before laundering on the

Broken Garter stitch pattern was

= 26 1/2sts x 10 rows and 24 sts

and 10 rows after laundering. A

little off from the pattern, but still

workable as it means the T-shirt

will have more ease in it for me.

That’s OK.

On the garter rib pattern, I

achieved 26sts x 9 rows before

laundering and 24sts x 9 rows

after; similar results to the Broken

Garter stitch pattern. The other

two patterns yielded similar

results, but what I gained from

this exercise was seeing the first

two patterns beside each other. I

really liked the combination, so I

decided that’d be my plan for the

T-shirt.

Pattern swatch going from bottom up – Broken

Garter stitch, Garter Rib, a variation on Broken

Garter stitch, and a Basket weave. Broken Garter

and Garter Rib patterns are my favorites.

KNITmuch | issue 16

31

This was a great exercise in playing with different

pattern motifs before committing to the project.

I, like most knitters, tend to only swatch when

absolutely necessary, but I’m really glad I made this

one. Now I know exactly what I want to do on my

T-shirt project.

For my third swatch, I wanted to change the needle

size to see how it affects the drape and to play with

color. Part of my reasoning for this is based on the

cardigan pattern I’ve selected. The designer tends

to knit a bit looser than I do, so I thought I would

play a little. Now is the best time to try things out.

This time, I used a US 4 [3.5mm] needle using the

same number of stitches and Citrus Leaf colorway.

I incorporated stripes using the Key Lime yarn in

both stocking and garter stitches to see if I liked

the combination. I ended up with 23sts x 35 rows

after laundering which is significantly different for

the stitch gauge from the pattern gauge. The fabric

drape was lovely, but not really appropriate for my

project. The color experiment was tremendous.

I was really pleased with the results and felt

comfortable proceeding with my plan.

One of my good knitting friends shared a tip to

incorporate the needle size into your swatch. This

way, you’ll always know what size was used for

every swatch you knit. I think it’s a brilliant idea

since I always think I’ll remember, and then I don’t.

If you look at the lower right-hand corner of my

swatch reading from right to left, you’ll see 3 purl

bumps followed by 2 knit stitches, then 2 more

purl bumps. Since I think in terms of metric knitting

needles, the purl bumps signify I used a 3.5mm

needle – 1 bump for .25, 2 bumps for .5, 3 bumps

for .75. If you think in terms of US needle sizes (US

4 = 3.5mm) then you would make 4 purl bumps

in a row. Whenever I need to reference this swatch

again in the future, I’ll always know what needle size

I used.

On another note, when I laundered my swatches, I

soaked them in cool water using a non-rinse soap

and laid them flat to dry. I didn’t machine wash or

tumble dry since these processes can contribute

to the variation in gauge. If I decide to launder my

sweaters based on the yarn recommendations, I’ll

first do it on my swatches. That’s another reason

to knit a test swatch – you want to launder the

swatches the same way you intend to launder the

finished garment.

I actually enjoyed making my swatches – not

something you often hear. I know what pattern

motifs, color combinations and needle size I need

for my two main projects…far better to learn this on

a 4” swatch than a size medium sweater.

Swatch #3 on a US 4 [3.5mm] needle mixing Key Lime stripes with Citrus Leaf


Knit this super cute T-shirt with the NEW

Magnolia yarn (free pattern)

Download the pattern for The

Cherries on Top T-shirt, it’s a

free knitting pattern designed

for Magnolia yarn, it knits flat

in two pieces, and is seamed at

the shoulders and underarms.

Stitches are then picked up and

knit for the neckline. The front

features the Broken Garter stitch

pattern and the back is knit in an

open Garter Lace pattern. This is

a lovely T-shirt just the way it is,

however, I decided to make a few

changes including knitting it in

the round instead of flat.

Cherries on Top pattern by Universal

Yarn for Magnolia yarn

I did start to swatch the Garter

Lace pattern but decided it was

too open for my liking on a top. I

think it would look really good on

a shawl, but didn’t want to wear

it on my back. So, I opted to do a

combination of the Broken Garter

and Garter Rib patterns from my

swatching exercise.

For the balance of this article, I’ll

describe the changes I made

for knitting in the round and

over the top. What does that

mean, you ask? The only seams

in my finished project are the

underarms. Everything else it

knitted in one piece, therefore no

shoulder seams.

Let’s get started.

Using a US 2 [2.75mm] needle, I

cast on 264 sts for the medium

which is 2 stitches less than the

front and back stitches combined.

Since I don’t have any side seams,

I don’t need a seam allowance

and that works out for the

pattern repeat.

The next change was the Half-

Twisted Rib section at the bottom

edge. If worked flat, the twist

is always a Ktbl (knit through

back loop) on a rib stitch, i.e., a

purl stitch on the Right Side (RS)

becomes a knit stitch on the

Wrong Side (WS), therefore, the

Ktbl occurs on every knit stitch.

Because I’m working in the round,

that requires a Ptbl (purl through

back loop) to twist that same

stitch since I'm always knitting on

the RS. This is a little trickier to

do and there are a lot of stitches

requiring that technique. So, I

opted to just do a Ktbl on only

one of the knit stitches as follows.

Round 1: K1tbl, P1.

Round 2: K1tbl, K1.

Once the ribbing section was

complete, I switched to a US 3

[3.25mm] needle and proceeded

with the Broken Garter stitch

pattern, but it changes a bit

when working in the round.

Round 1: K1, P3.

Round 2: Knit.

I continued until my work

measured 14” ending with

Round 2.

I then turned my work and knit in

reverse (on the wrong side - WS),

for 1 round, placing a marker at

the half way point to denote side

marker.

Now I was ready to separate

the front and back by having a

second set of needles available.

If you don’t have a second set

of the same needle size, use

the next smaller size so you can

leave the back stitches on the

spare set while you proceed with

the front.

Turn your work to knit in the

proper direction (right side

facing) and proceed with sleeve

increases for the front until you

reach the side marker. That’s

when you want to transfer the

back stitches to a spare needle or

use another set of the same size

to continue working on the front.

KNITmuch | issue 16

33

Front

Cast on 1 stitch, knit to side

marker and leave remaining

stitches on a spare needle.

Turn work.

Cast on 1 stitch and knit to end

of row.

Cast on 2 stitches at the

beginning of the next 6 rows

while working the bodice pattern.

Bodice pattern in Garter Rib

Row 1: Cast on 2 sts, knit to end

of row

Row 2: Cast on 2 sts, P1, K1 to

end of row

Follow the pattern instructions

using the Garter Rib stitch until

dividing for the V-neck. The

instructions state to cast off the

middle stitch for the V-neck, but

since I’m working with 1 less stitch

on the front, I didn’t do that.

I followed the pattern instructions

until it stated to cast off for the

shoulder seams. I didn’t do

that either. Instead, I inserted a

removable locking stitch marker

to denote where the shoulder

seam should be and worked

both sides of the V-neck until the

front was complete. Now it’s time

for Over the Top.

Continuation of the Garter Rib pattern over the

shoulder and down the back


Over the Top

This is where I continued knitting

down the back by working

across the shoulder stitches,

then casting on the number of

stitches (less 1) as instructed by

the pattern to cast off for the

back neck edge. In my case, the

instructions called for 55 sts, so I

cast on 54 – remember that I’m

working with 1 stitch less on each

of the front and back.

I continued in the Garter Rib

pattern to the same point as

the last row of the front sleeve

increases. I counted the number

of rows to make sure I was

at the same place. You can

measure, but I don’t rely on that

completely as I want to know the

exact number of rows. Instead

of increasing, I decreased based

on the same formula; that is, 2

sts decreased at the beginning

of the next 6 rows. On the last 1

stitch decrease row, the wrong

side of the work should be facing

you, so work it as a knit row. If it’s

a right-side row, then work it as

a purl row (it depends on your

row count). Then, with the wrong

side facing you, use a 3 needle

bind off to join the Over the Top

stitches to the back stitches that

you placed on hold.

The main body of the T-shirt is

all together in one piece. Just

follow the instructions for picking

up the sleeve cuffs and neckline

to complete the project. Oh wait,

just one more little change. I cast

off the stitches for the sleeves

and neckline using a 2 stitch

I-cord cast off. It makes a lovely

squared edge and has become

my favorite for applications such

as this.

When ready to start your cast

off, cast on 2 more stitches and

knit 2, then transfer them back to

the left needle. K1, K2togtbl (Knit

2 together through back loop)

until you’re left with 2 stitches on

your right needle, then cast off. It

makes a beautiful cast-off edge.

Weave in the ends and you’re

done!

The Cherries on Top T-shirt is complete using

Universal Yarn Magnolia in Key Lime.

The Cherries on Top T-shirt is

now complete. I really like the

two different patterns together

and all I had to seam were the

underarms. The drape of the

finished garment is beautiful and

so soft and satiny to the touch.

I can really see why modal is

often used for undergarments

and the wicking qualities of the

fiber make it a great choice for a

summer top.

Substituting yarns when knitting from a

pattern: How to make the switch

I’m making a lightweight

cardigan using Magnolia in Citrus

Leaf and Key Lime. However,

the pattern for the cardigan

was designed for wool fiber.

That means I’m substituting

a cellulose-based fiber for a

protein-based fiber. This takes

some careful consideration

before proceeding as the two

fibers behave very differently.

That’s why the swatching exercise

on Day 2 is so important. It’s

not just about determining the

needle size but also the quality

of the fabric. Is the drape of

the fabric appropriate for the

application? If you don’t take

the time to test that out on a 4”

swatch, you may go to a lot of

effort and end up disappointed

with the results. Based on the

results I achieved through

swatching, I elected to use a

US 3 [3.25mm] needle as I not

only achieved gauge, but I was

very satisfied with the drape of

the fabric. It’ll be different than

a wool fabric, but I’m good with

that.

The pattern I’ve chosen is called

Paulie, which is available from

Ravelry. It’s designed by Isabell

Kraemer, who happens to be

one of my favorite designers.

Her designs are stylish and very

wearable, and best of all, this

is a free pattern. This particular

pattern has been on my ‘must

make’ list for some time, and

now I get the chance to make it.

This pattern is worked from the

top down. The sleeve stitches

are put on hold, then picked up

and worked down in the round.

The button band and collar are

picked up and worked in one

piece by using short rows and

finished off with a 3-stitch I-cord

edging. No seams to sew, only

ends to weave in and buttons to

attach.

Paulie cardigan by Isabell

Kraemer, courtesy of Ravelry

I didn’t intend to alter this

pattern from the original design

but made an exception on how

I used the two colors. I used 3

skeins of Citrus Leaf as the Main

Color (MC) and 1 skein of Key

Lime as the Contrasting Color

(CC) and decided to alternate the

two colors on the garter stitch

sections on the shoulder, hem,

and cuffs.

From my swatching exercise, I

discovered how the two colors

complemented each other – the

Key Lime brought out the blue

tones of the Citrus Leaf, and

the Citrus Leaf brought out the

yellow tones of the Key Lime.

When alternated in the garter

section, it seemed to almost

create a new color.

One more note before we get

started. I mentioned that I used

a US 3 [3.25mm] needle to knit

this sweater. The designer’s

gauge was achieved using a US

2½ [3.0mm] on wool. Since wool

knits up differently from modal,

it’s extremely important that you

swatch to determine the needle

size appropriate for the way you

knit when substituting the type

of yarn.

I cast on the appropriate number

of stitches for my size and placed

the stitch markers according to

the pattern instructions which

had a stitch marker beside each

increase. I found this a little

cumbersome, so I switched to

using a single marker to denote

the raglan from the front and/or

back. In other words, I only used

4 small markers and knew to do

my increase 1 stitch before and/

or after the marker. I found this

more manageable. By the way, a

good way to remember Make 1

Left (M1L) vs. Make 1 Right (M1R)

is this – Right of the marker =

M1R; Left of the Marker = M1L.

KNITmuch | issue 16

35

I only deviated from the pattern

instructions in a couple of minor

ways, mainly due to alternating

the colors in the garter stitch

hem. I wanted to start and end

this section using Citrus Leaf

(MC). The pattern calls for 20

rows meaning that if I started

with Citrus Leaf, I’d end with Key

Lime. I opted for 18 rows instead

and cast off in Citrus Leaf using

the 2-stitch I-cord method I

used on the T-shirt. I really like

this cast-off method for certain

applications.

I also deviated from the pattern

when it came to sleeve length.

I like my sleeves to be either

above my elbow, or down to

my wrists. I’m not really a fan of

midway in between. I opted to

make them longer by making

one additional sleeve decrease,

knitting to my desired length,

then working the cuff section in

the same manner as the hem. I

can always push long sleeves

up, but you can’t pull ¾ length

sleeves down. If I decide later

that I prefer to have short sleeves,

I can always rip them back and

rework the cuff. That’s a lot easier

to do and less visible than to add

on later.

I kept the button band and collar

in Citrus Leaf for two reasons:

1) the use of short rows on the

collar would not look right if the

colors were alternated, and 2)

the accent color on the I-cord

edge really highlights the two

colors.

It’s a good idea to choose your

buttons before knitting the

buttonhole band to make sure

they’re sized correctly for each

other. I made the band first, then

I went shopping for the buttons.

The buttons are proportionately

sized for the sweater, but the

buttonholes are a little tight.

Remember, this sweater was

designed for wool, which has

more elasticity to it than modal. I

don’t intend to wear it buttoned

up, but I can with a little effort.

If I’d had them in advance, I

could have adjusted the size

of the buttonholes. One other

note, the button band and collar

consumed almost a full skein of

Magnolia so I suggest you start

with a full skein if you don’t want

any joins in this section.

The Paulie cardigan is complete with buttons

and made with Magnolia yarn in Citrus Leaf

and Key Lime.

After weaving in the ends and

sewing on the buttons, the Paulie

cardigan is complete. I love the

way the two colors of Citrus

Leaf and Key Lime complement

each other. The I-cord edge on

the button bands and collar is a

wonderful accent, and the drape

of the fabric is gorgeous.

As much as I love the front, the

back of the cardigan is also

beautiful.

I’m really pleased with how

this turned out. This yarn

substitution worked in the end,

but not without doing my swatch

homework first.

Back view of the Paulie cardigan. The Citrus Leaf and

Key Lime colors complement each other perfectly.


Weaving with Magnolia is as beautiful as

knitting with it (It’s a wrap!)

If you’re unfamiliar with weaving

terminology, here’s a brief

explanation of some of the terms.

Warp – the yarn that runs

lengthwise on the loom.

Weft – the sideways yarn that’s

on the shuttle and passes through

the warp to create the fabric.

Shuttle – what you wrap the yarn

around to run it through the warp.

Heddle – each thread of the

warp is run through the heddle to

separate the yarn; also referred to

as Reed.

Rigid Heddle - a fixed panel that

separates and moves the warp

threads. It also acts as the beater

to compress the weft threads with

each pass of the shuttle.

Shed - the separation between

upper and lower warp yarns

through which the weft is woven.

Dpi or epi – Dents per Inch – the

number of warp thread slots and

eyelets per inch in the heddle or

reed. Ends per Inch refers to the

number of warp threads per inch.

Once the design was

finalized, I entered my desired

measurements into a spreadsheet

I prepared, which in turn

calculated the yardage needed

for each color. My plan was to

make a wrap approximately

16” wide x 72” in length, to

wear like a stole, but with

enough length to allow it to be

thrown over a shoulder. After

entering all my numbers into my

spreadsheet, it suggested I

needed approximately 350yds

of Frayed Denim, 237yds of

Citrus Leaf and 308yds of Key

Lime. This is an approximation,

so it’s better to err on the

side of caution and up these

numbers by about 10%. A skein

of Magnolia is 361yds so that

meant I needed 1 skein of each

Citrus Leaf and Key Lime, and 2

skeins of Frayed Denim.

After I had all the information I

needed, it was time to ‘dress the

loom’ by putting on the warp

and threading it through the

heddle, and loading 3 separate

shuttles with my colors. Then

I was ready to sit down and

weave, which is the fastest part

of this entire process. It took far

less time to actually weave than

all the preparation time, and

significantly faster than knitting

a stole of this size.

Image from the weaving software of my plan

The final wrap woven with Magnolia in Frayed Denim,

Citrus Leaf and Key Lime

KNITmuch | issue 16

37

My ensemble is complete – the Paulie cardigan, a woven stole, and the Cherries on Top T-shirt, all made

with Magnolia in my favorite summer colors.

The finished wrap is very soft and satiny to the touch and I love how

the three colors of Magnolia worked beautifully together. My finished

measurements turned out to be 14½” wide by 77” in length before

laundering and without the fringe. I expect it will be shorter after

washing it which will compress the threads together somewhat. I hem

stitched the beginning and the end, but haven’t decided what to do

with the fringe. I don’t intend to leave it that long but until I decide, I

won’t shorten it. I may twist the ends together or tie them into groups,

both of which are easier to do when it’s long. I may just cut them back

to 1” but I have plenty of time to decide before the warmer weather

actually gets here. And I did need to go into the second skein of the

Frayed Denim to finish the project, but 1 skein of each Citrus Leaf and

Key Lime did the trick.

I’m really pleased with how well these projects turned out. Working

with Magnolia was wonderful and I love the colors I chose. If you

recall back on Day 1, I stated that I changed my project plan a little

once the yarn arrived. I had originally planned on knitting a tank top,

but changed to the T-shirt. Now that everything is done and I have

a little bit of each color left, I think I’ll make a tank top. If I’m short on

yarn, I’ll just have to take a trip to my LYS and ask for another skein of

Universal Yarn Magnolia. Though, I expect I’m likely to leave the store

with more than a skein once I see some of the other 14 colors.

Cindy O'Malley

cindooknits.blogspot.com


LAZY DAYS

Welcome to Thoughtful Soles

Series by Lorraine Thompson!

This is a zany collection of knitted

sock patterns to tickle your funny

bone every time you wear them.

Thoughtful Soles Series

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DARK MUSHROOMS

WIGGLE ROOM

WINTER IS COMING

COLOURWASH

WOOL STEW HIGH FIBRE BUMPS IN THE ROAD

T IS FOR TURN

TICK TOCK

GINGHAM APPLES

BALI POP SOCKS

SIMPLY PUT SOCKS

KNITmuch | issue 16

39

Standard Yarn Weight System

Categories of yarn, gauge ranges, and recommended needle and hook sizes





Yarn Weight

Symbol &

Category

Names

Yarn Weight

Type of

Symbol & Yarns in

Category Category

Names

Demos

Food

Vendors

Workshops

Fingering,

10 count

crochet thread

13th

Annual

Knit Gauge

Type of Range* in Fingering, Sock,

Yarns in

33–40**

Stockinette 10 count Fingering,

sts

Category Stitch to crochet thread Baby

4 inches

Knit Gauge

Range* in Recommended

33–40** 27–32

Stockinette Needle in 1.5–2.25

Stitch to Metric Size

sts

mm

sts

4 inches Range

Sock,

Fingering,

Baby

27–32

sts

2.25–3.25

mm

Yarn Weight

Symbol &

Sport, Category

Names Baby

DK,

Light

Worsted

Worsted,

Afghan,

Aran

* GUIDELINES ONLY: The above reflect the most commonly used gauges and needle or hook sizes for specific yarn categories.

* GUIDELINES ONLY: The above reflect the most commonly ** Lace used weight gauges

11 yarns and needle are usually or hook knitted sizes or for crocheted specific yarn on larger categories. needles and hooks to create lacy, openwork patterns. Accordingly, a

** Lace weight yarns are usually knitted or crocheted on larger gauge needles range is and difficult hooks to to determine. create lacy, Always openwork follow patterns. the gauge Accordingly, stated your a pattern.

gauge 40 range KNITmuch is difficult to determine. | issue Always 16follow the gauge *** Steel stated crochet in your hooks pattern. are sized differently from regular hooks--the higher the number, the smaller the hook, which is the reverse

*** Steel crochet hooks are sized differently from regular of hooks--the regular hook higher sizing. the number, the smaller the hook, which is the reverse

of regular hook sizing.

Chunky,

Craft,

Rug

Bulky,

Roving

Jumbo,

Roving

Type of

Fingering, Sock,

DK,

Worsted,

Yarns in DK, 10 count Worsted, Fingering, Chunky,

Sport,

Sport,

6 sts

23–26 21–24 16–20 12–15 BabyBulky,

Light

7–11 Jumbo,

Afghan,

Category Light crochet thread Afghan, Baby Craft,

Baby

and

sts

sts

sts

sts Roving

Worsted

sts Roving

Aran

Worsted

Aran

Rug

fewer

Knit Gauge

Range* in

33–40** 27–32 23–26 21–24

Stockinette

6 sts

16–20

23–26 21–24

12.75 mm

3.25–3.75 Stitch to 3.75–4.5sts

16–20

4.5–5.5sts

12–15

5.5–8 sts 7–11

8–12.75 sts

and

sts

sts

and

4 mm

sts

inches mm

sts

mm

sts

mm

sts

mm fewer

larger

Recommended

ssk = slip, slip, knit: slip 2 sts knitwise, 1 at a time, insert

Recommended Recommended

17

12.75 mm

Needle in 1.5–2.25 2.25–3.25 3.25–3.75 3.75–4.5 4.5–5.5 5.5–8 left-hand 8–12.75 needle into front of both sts and knit

Needle U.S. 000 to 1 1 to 3 3 to 5 5 to 7 7 to 9 9 to 11 11 to 17 12.75 mm

Needle in 1.5–2.25 2.25–3.25 3.25–3.75Metric Size 3.75–4.5 mm4.5–5.5

mm 5.5–8 mm8–12.75

mm

and

mm

mm them tog mm(left-leaning and decrease)

Size Range

and

Metric Size

mm

mm

mm

larger

Range mm

mm

mm

mm

sssk = slip next three stitches larger individually, knitwise.

larger

Insert tip of left needle from front to back into

Range

Crochet

the fronts of these three stitches and knit them

Recommended

17

Gauge*Ranges 32–42

6 sts

together (double left-leaning decrease)

Recommended

21–32 16–20 12–17 11–14

8–11

7–9

in Single

double

Needle U.S. 000 to 1 1 to 3 3 to 5 5 to 7 17

and

7 to 9 9 to 11 st(s) = stitch(es) 11 to 17

and

Needle U.S. 000 to 1 1 to 3 sts 3 to 5 sts

sts

sts

sts

sts

Crochet to crochets**

Size Range 5 to 7 7 to 9 9 to 11 11 to 17

and

St st = stocking stitch

fewer

larger

Size Range

larger

tbl = through back loop

4 inch

Crochet

tog = together

Crochet

tr = treble crochet

Steel***

Gauge*Ranges 32–42

6 sts

Gauge*Ranges Recommended 32–42

21–32 16–20 12–17 15 mm 11–14

8–11 WS = wrong 7–9 side

1.6–1.4 mm 2.25–3.25 3.5–4.5 in Single 4.5–5.5 double

6.5–9

9–15 6 sts

and

in Single Hook in Metric

21–32 16–20 12–17 11–14

double

5.5–6.5mmsts

8–11 sts 7–9 sts and sts

sts yo = yarn over sts

Regular hook mm

Crochet mm to mm crochets**

mm

mm and

fewer

Crochet to Size Range

sts

sts

sts

sts

sts

sts

crochets**

larger

2.25 mm

4 inch

fewer

4 inch

Steel***

Steel*** Steel***

Recommended

Recommended

1.6–1.4 mm 2.25–3.25 3.5–4.5 4.5–5.5

Recommended 6, 7, 8

Hook in Metric

I–9

15 mm

1.6–1.4 mm 2.25–3.25 3.5–4.5 4.5–5.5 Regular hook mm 6.5–9

Q

K–10

Hook U.S. Size Regular B–1 to E–4 E–4 to 7 7 to I–9

to

1 ⁄2 mm 9–15

5.5–6.5mm

Hook in Metric

Size Range

5.5–6.5mm

M-13 mm

and

Regular hook mm

mm

mm 2.25 mm

mm

and

to M-13 mm

Size Range

to Q

Range

hook

K–10 1 ⁄2

larger

2.25 mm

larger

B–1

Steel***

Steel***

Recommended 6, 7, 8

I–9

* GUIDELINES ONLY: The above reflect the most commonly used gauges and needle or hook sizes for specific yarn categories.

Recommended 6, 7, 8

Hook U.S. Size RegularI–9

B–1 to E–4 E–4 to 7 7 to I–9 Q

** Lace weight yarns are usually knitted or crocheted on larger needles and hooks to create K–10

to

lacy, openwork patterns. Accordingly, a

Hook U.S. Size Regular B–1 to E–4 E–4 to 7

gauge range is difficult to determine. Always follow Range 7 to I–9

the gauge stated hook to

1 ⁄2 M-13

and

in your pattern.

K–10 1 ⁄2

to M-13

to Q

Range

hook

B–1K–10 1 ⁄2

larger

*** Steel crochet hooks are sized differently from regular hooks--the higher the number, the smaller the hook, which is the reverse

of regular B–1 hook sizing.

This Standards & Guidelines booklet and downloadable symbol artwork are available at: YarnStandards.com

6.5–9

mm

K–10 1 ⁄2

to M-13

Standard abbreviations & terms

alt = alternate

approx = approximately

beg = begin(ning)

BO= bind off

CC = contrast color

ch = chain

cm = centimetre(s)

Saturday October 15, 2022

cn = cable needle

co = cast on

cont = continue, continuing

9am to 4pm

dc = double crochet

dec = decrease(s), decreasing

dpn = double-pointed needle(s)

foll = following

g = gram(s)

hdc = half double crochet

Standards & Guidelines For Crochet and Knitting • YarnStandards.com

inc = increase(s), increasing

in(s) = inch(es)

k = knit

kf&b or kfb = knit into front and back of st (increase)



Paris Fair Grounds, 139 Silver St, Paris,ON

www.fleecefestival.com

Crochet

Felting

Knitting

Spinning

Rug Hooking

Weaving

KNITmuch

ktbl = knit through the back loop

k2tog = knit 2 sts tog (right-leaning decrease)

k3tog = knit 3 sts together (double right-leaning

decrease)

m = marker

m = meter(s)

m1 = Make 1 stitch: pick up the horizontal strand

between 2 stitches from front to back and knit it

tbl (lifted increase)

MC = main color

mm = millimetre(s)

oz = ounce(s)

p = purl

p2tog = purl 2 sts tog (decrease)

patt = pattern

Chunky, pfb = purl into front and back of stitch (increase)

Bulky,

Jumbo,

Craft,

pm = place marker

psso = pass Roving slipped stitch Roving over

Rug

RS = right side

rem = remain(ing)

rep = repeat

rev = reverse

12–15 rnd = round 7–11

sts sc = single crochet sts

9–15

mm

M-13

to Q

6 sts

and

fewer

sl = slip

skp = slip one st, knit next st, pass slipped st over knit

st (dec)

15 mm

and

larger

Q

and

larger

KNITmuch Issue 16

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