Leamington and Warwick Living Jan - Feb 2023

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THE CHEF’S CHEF David Everitt-Matthias has been the co-owner and head chef of Michelin starred Le Champignon Sauvage in Cheltenham since 1987. 36 years later and with 2 Michelin stars under his belt, Sally Thomson caught up with him to discuss foraging, Saturday Kitchen and winter flavours... WHEN DID YOU START COOKING? 1978. It was when I left school. I had put in papers to join the army catering corps and I also had an interview at the Four Seasons which was in Mayfair which in those days was called the Inn on the Park. So, I decided to go that way to the Inn on the Park and started there as a first-year apprentice. DID YOU FIND IT QUITE CHALLENGING? Oh yeah, it was great. In those days it was very regimented. There were about ninety chefs and we each had our place. Because we were junior it was the whole ‘Don’t talk unless you are spoken to’ so it was just head down and get on with your job. SO IT WAS A BIT LIKE BEING IN THE ARMY? It was. It was very regimented, and I think that’s not necessarily a bad thing. I THINK THERE’S A CERTAIN LACK OF IT IN SO MANY ASPECTS OF LIFE THESE DAYS. YOU NEED TO DO IT BY THE BOOK - TO BE GOOD AT IT ALMOST. Yes. Then you can throw the rule book away afterwards. Once you’ve got the training then you can start playing. IT IS FANTASTIC TO BE ABLE TO GIVE PEOPLE THE OPPORTUNITY TO LEARN A VERY GOOD SKILL It is a problem, the de-skilling of our Cinderford lamb, bay boletus cream, sautéed ceps and walnuts industry and many other industries. They’re just not as skilled as they used to be. Lots of people are getting their stuff already boned from the butchers, already cut into portions, and so don’t have the opportunity to work on whole animals, or semi-whole animals. And it’s the same with fish. A lot of fish gets prepped up and doesn’t arrive whole. So that’s gone out the window for a lot of chefs in their training. I THINK THAT’S ESSENTIAL WITH MOST THINGS IN LIFE; TO UNDERSTAND THE BASICS BEFORE YOU CAN MOVE ON WITH IT. I totally agree. It’s just the whole deskilling of so many things in the world at the moment. Especially given that head chefs are getting younger and younger now and they are supposed to be able to teach people under them. How can 18 | www.minervamagazines.co.uk
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Leamington and Warwick Living Jan - Feb 2023

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