North Hampshire Lifestyle Jan - Feb 2023

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I LIKE TO DESCRIBE WHAT WE DO AS TERROIR FOOD; FOOD FROM THE EARTH AND THE HEART... it comes to presentation of TV programmes, and the fact that he gets on and does he own mise en place prep for his show I think is a testament where other people will get others to do it for them. I’m happy that I got invited and I would gladly do it with James again. AT THIS TIME OF YEAR, WITH US HEADING INTO SPRING, WHAT DO YOU LIKE TO COOK? It does always depend how bad the winter has been. Shoots are starting to come through if it’s been a little milder, and things like wild garlic I have noticed has been coming through earlier and earlier in the year. Around this time of year, you are looking at chestnuts and boletus mushrooms. They are around from November and when we go and pick there are usually acorns around and we’ll pick those up too. And then as we go into spring, we get the wild garlic and the lovely shoots starting to appear such as pennywort. Of course, there is also game which finishes around the end of <strong>Jan</strong>uary. I love venison and partridge and because they are so lean. They give you a chance to put them with something a little bit fatty, like maybe belly of pork or some sort of little kofta to go with it to help with the pure leanness of the meat. YOU’VE MENTIONED PICKING, DO YOU GO OUT AND PICK YOUR OWN? Yes. Not all our own though because we just don’t have the time. My wife brings stuff back when she walks our dogs. But the wild garlic berries we will salt and then pickle, and we’ll keep those for the winter. So, they’ll be done in the spring and kept for the winter so that they will add a little bit of acidity to the dish and help cut through the slightly heartier dishes that are available in the winter/early spring. Raspberry cannelloni with anise hyssop cream ARE YOU ABLE TO DESCRIBE YOUR STYLE OF COOKING? I would say it is masculine; bold flavours that we’ve sort of lightened up now, but they still have that real punch of flavour that we are known for. YOU’VE ERRED OVER THE YEARS TO BEING SLIGHTLY FRENCH IN CUISINE, HAVEN’T YOU? Yes. I was taught to cook French food, so I suppose we’re sort of French Modern British. Other little influences come in like Japanese stuff and Indian and Moroccan spices that we use for different effects. And things like the acorns I mentioned, we’ll do an acorn panacotta and make an espresso granita to go on top of that and a mascarpone foam. Basically, an acorn tiramisu. DO YOU HAVE A FAVOURITE PIECE OF KIT IN YOUR KITCHEN THAT YOU COULDN’T LIVE WITHOUT? I KNOW YOU WOULD PROBABLY SAY A KNIFE. Well, yes that would probably be it. I have some Japanese knives that are great. A Thermomix I suppose. It’s a blender that cooks that is good for several jobs. IS THERE ANYWHERE IN PARTICULAR THAT YOU HAVE EATEN THAT YOU WOULD LOVE TO GO BACK TO? Some of my favourites are Chez Bruce, with Bruce Paul in London, Phil Howard at Elystan Street in London. Tom Aikens. Ledbury is another good restaurant. There are so many! www.lechampignonsauvage.co.uk Saute of langoustines, roasted heritage carrots 18 | www.minervamagazines.co.uk
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North Hampshire Lifestyle Jan - Feb 2023

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