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ExClusivE / David Coulthard talks to <strong>Baltic</strong> Outlook<br />
Your guide to Delicious Food Festivals in Europe<br />
Jazz Gems For Autumn<br />
Where the East<br />
Meets the West<br />
Tbilisi<br />
OCTOBER 2010<br />
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A Guide to the Delicious<br />
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See page 52<br />
Editorial Staff<br />
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Design: Marika Štrāle<br />
Layout: Inta Kraukle<br />
Cover: Courtesy of Ministry of Economic<br />
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<strong>Baltic</strong> Outlook is published<br />
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4<br />
6<br />
8<br />
10<br />
16<br />
18<br />
22<br />
24<br />
28<br />
30<br />
32<br />
Thought Simulacra and<br />
Simulation<br />
City Icons Arch-Engel. Helsinki<br />
<strong>Air</strong>port Capturing the Essence<br />
of Lebanon. Beirut<br />
Agenda October 2010<br />
Beirut The Armenian Quarter<br />
October details and Jazz Gems<br />
for Autumn<br />
Traveler Travel like a Travel Writer<br />
Interview New Kid on the Block.<br />
Markus Salmberg<br />
Style A Cockpit Timepiece<br />
Review Latest Books, Movies,<br />
CDs<br />
Your Next Destination Tbilisi:<br />
Where the East Meets the West<br />
40<br />
48<br />
52<br />
64<br />
68<br />
72<br />
78<br />
80<br />
85<br />
CONTENTS / OCTOBER<br />
Interview David Coulthard.<br />
Coulthard’s Hard Cult<br />
Live Riga The Designed<br />
Environment<br />
Food Festivals A Guide to<br />
Delicous Food Festivals<br />
Travel Finland. The Forecast Calls<br />
for <strong>rapujuhla</strong><br />
Cars Nissan Juke<br />
Gadgets Let’s Talk!<br />
Dining Restaurant 1221 and other<br />
Season’s Delights in Riga and<br />
<strong>Baltic</strong>s<br />
air<strong>Baltic</strong> News<br />
BALTIC OUTLOOK / OCTOBER 2010 / 1
Dear Passenger,<br />
Bertolt Flick,<br />
President and CEO,<br />
air<strong>Baltic</strong><br />
A mEssAgE fROm ThE CEO<br />
air<strong>Baltic</strong> started operations in October 1995, exactly 10 years ago. At<br />
air<strong>Baltic</strong>, we don’t reflect too much on past achievements but rather on<br />
the challenges of today and tomorrow. And there are plenty of these – fuel<br />
prices, competition, new EU plans to “balance the growth of aviation” i.e.<br />
to restrict it, as well as some home-made problems.<br />
I wrote these exact words in October 2005, five years ago, and they still are<br />
true. A lot of things have changed over the last fifteen years. air<strong>Baltic</strong> has<br />
grown from two to thirty-four aircrafts, the network has expanded from<br />
5 routes to almost 100, and the <strong>Baltic</strong> States have gone through a period of<br />
uninhibited growth followed by a recession without precedent.<br />
However, aviation has developed in our home markets, the <strong>Baltic</strong>s and<br />
Finland, and the main beneficiary is the customer. When I look at old<br />
timetables, prices and business reports, I see how few flights were offered<br />
only a few years ago and how prices have changed. The lowest price from<br />
Riga to Berlin via Copenhagen was 400 Euros 10 years ago, and a mid and<br />
a weekday flight from Riga to Stockholm was 700 Euros. Today, flights on<br />
average don’t cost more than 70 to 80 Euros, with the lowest prices being far<br />
lower. We have come a long way as airlines in the region, offering a better<br />
service at a lower price. I am very proud to have been be a part of this<br />
development.<br />
Enjoy your flight!<br />
BALTIC OUTLOOK / OCTOBER 2010 / 3
DETAILS / ThOUghT<br />
Simulacra<br />
and Simulation<br />
TExT: RIhARDs KALNINs<br />
In writing for <strong>Baltic</strong> Outlook, I have gotten to know quite<br />
a bit about the aviation industry. While there are many<br />
departments that support an airline’s operations –<br />
including products and services, marketing and network<br />
planning, to name just a few – the thing that makes an<br />
airline different from a typical company is the fact that<br />
these departments work to send enormous aircraft<br />
soaring through the skies. And the people most directly<br />
in charge of this extraordinary activity (for what isn’t<br />
extraordinary about 50-ton hunks of metal hurtling<br />
through the atmosphere?) are the airline’s pilots.<br />
I got to experience the joy of flight without ever leaving<br />
the ground – in the Boeing 737 flight simulator at the<br />
air<strong>Baltic</strong> Training Center. This machine is where pilots<br />
earn their Type Rating certificate for the 737, which<br />
allows them to pilot this type of aircraft.<br />
The Boeing 737 simulator itself completely replicates the<br />
full flight experience, complete with shocks and struts<br />
The Boeing 737 simulator itself<br />
replicates the full flight experience<br />
For more about the<br />
Boeing 737 flight<br />
simulator and how it<br />
works, see the short<br />
interview with air<strong>Baltic</strong><br />
pilot Markus Salmberg<br />
on page 24.<br />
that recreate the movements of a real aircraft. The entire<br />
cockpit is identical to the cockpit of an actual plane, and<br />
the screens behind the windows replicate the view from<br />
a plane so faithfully that it is impossible to tell you’re<br />
looking at a simulacrum. In fact, the entire sensation<br />
of being inside the simulator is absolutely uncanny:<br />
whenever you remind yourself that you are sitting inside<br />
the Training Center, and are not actually up in the air,<br />
something threatens to snap deep within your brain.<br />
Before I stepped inside the simulator, I cracked a<br />
joke about having stayed up all night playing the<br />
1980s computer game Flight Simulator, to which my<br />
flight instructor, Captain Gerhard Ramcke, soberly<br />
responded, “This is not a game.” When Ramcke had<br />
finally buckled me into my seat and instructed me on<br />
how to manipulate the steering wheel and monitor my<br />
progression on a series of dials, I realized that he was<br />
right. I was sweating so profusely even before “leaving”<br />
the ground, that I was afraid he would send me back<br />
home, where I could sit safely at my own desk, securely<br />
ensconced behind a computer screen.<br />
However, as soon as my “plane” swerved down the<br />
runway and unsteadily lifted up into the air, I felt a rush<br />
of relief. A stunning vista opened up before me. I could<br />
see the Daugava River snaking through the verdant<br />
landscape up to the sea, which radiated a perfect blue.<br />
I could track the white sands of the beaches, which<br />
stretched as far as the eye could see, weaving up to the<br />
Estonian border. But most of all, I could feel the thrilling<br />
sensation of flight: the aircraft responding to the<br />
slightest movement of my hand, banking left or right<br />
at my command. The sensation was exhilarating. I was<br />
in control, and surrounded on all sides by the sublime<br />
beauty of our earth.<br />
Why I finally “landed” the aircraft and strolled outside<br />
into the bright sunlight, I understood why those aviator<br />
glasses are always mirrored. It’s so you can see exactly<br />
what a pilot is smiling at – the surrounding world, our<br />
world, which we so often take for granted. When seen<br />
from above, the earth looks like a heavenly vision, full<br />
of bold colour and beatific shapes and forms. Viewing<br />
it from above reminds us of its fundamental beauty,<br />
although sometimes we need a simulacrum to make us<br />
appreciate the real thing. BO
DETAILS / CITY ICONs / hELsINKI<br />
TExT: ROgER NORUm | PHOTO: DREAmsTImE<br />
Arch-Engel:<br />
Carl Ludvig Engel (1778 – 1840), architect, designer<br />
and city planner of Helsinki<br />
Wunderkind<br />
Educated in Berlin, Engel was<br />
hired in 1816 by Tsar Alexander I<br />
of Russia as the official architect<br />
for the rebuilding of Helsinki.<br />
(Finland at the time was a Grand<br />
Duchy in the Russian Empire.)<br />
Engel subsequently designed<br />
and built 30 Empire-style public<br />
buildings across the city until his<br />
death.<br />
“Few architects have the good<br />
fortune to plan an entire city,” he<br />
once penned in a letter to a friend.<br />
From Russia with love<br />
Among other iconic structures,<br />
Engel built what is now the<br />
main edifice of the University of<br />
Helsinki, as well as the president’s<br />
residence and city hall. He<br />
modelled his designs on buildings<br />
that he had seen in St. Petersburg,<br />
Russia, and whose Neoclassical<br />
grandeur deeply captivated him.<br />
Consequently, these two <strong>Baltic</strong><br />
6 / AIRBALTIC.COM<br />
seaports now bear a striking<br />
resemblance to each other, and<br />
the Finnish capital has often<br />
body-doubled for St. Petersburg<br />
and other Russian cities in such<br />
Hollywood films as Doctor<br />
Zhivago, Reds, Gorky Park, White<br />
Nights and the recent, Frenchproduced<br />
feature Farewell.<br />
Mit Deutschem Akzent<br />
Before moving to Finland, Engel<br />
worked for a few years as the<br />
town architect of Tallinn, Estonia.<br />
He arrived in Helsinki in 1816<br />
and lived there until his death in<br />
1840. Described by his friends<br />
as a “German adventurer” who<br />
enjoyed spending long evenings<br />
playing cards, Engel managed<br />
to learn both Swedish and the<br />
notoriously hard-to-learn Finnish<br />
language. However, he always<br />
spoke both tongues with a<br />
terribly strong German accent.<br />
This may have accounted for the<br />
Fly to Helsinki<br />
with air<strong>Baltic</strong> from<br />
€46<br />
fact that during most of his time<br />
in Finland, Engel remained an<br />
extremely soft-spoken man.<br />
Harsh Finnish winters<br />
Since Helsinki had been severely<br />
damaged by fire in 1808, Engel<br />
had his work cut out for him<br />
when he accepted the project<br />
of rebuilding the new Finnish<br />
capital. But, seeing his chance<br />
at immortality, he took it upon<br />
himself to weather decades<br />
of harsh Finnish winters. As<br />
Engel put it, “There is really a<br />
tremendous amount of work to<br />
be done here, and were I not an<br />
extremely content man, I would<br />
never have stayed.”<br />
Sunday services<br />
Engel’s greatest work is by far the<br />
magnificent Lutheran Cathedral<br />
(or Tuomiokirkko in Finnish)<br />
on Helsinki’s Senate Square. It<br />
stands out prominently with its<br />
Fascinating Finnish<br />
Factoids:<br />
Average income tax:<br />
31.5% (lower than in the<br />
other Nordic countries)<br />
VAT: 23% on most goods<br />
Number of lakes in<br />
Finland: 187,880 (more<br />
than any other country<br />
in the world)<br />
Population of Finland:<br />
5.35 million<br />
Number of saunas in<br />
Finland: 2 million<br />
Human population<br />
of Finnish Lapland:<br />
188,000<br />
Reindeer population<br />
of Finnish Lapland:<br />
210,000<br />
Average number of<br />
daily cups of coffee<br />
consumed by Finns: 5.7<br />
Thank You:<br />
Hanna Muoniovaara-Porvari<br />
and Mari Lihr, Helsinki City<br />
Tourist & Convention Bureau<br />
(www.visithelsinki.com)<br />
tall green dome, four smaller<br />
domes on a Greek-cross plan<br />
and symmetrical colonnade with<br />
pediments. The design of the<br />
building alone took a decade,<br />
and its construction – which<br />
began in 1830 – hadn’t even<br />
been completed at the time of<br />
Engel’s death.<br />
Interestingly, the monumental<br />
steps in front of the church were<br />
actually designed by the Tsar<br />
himself, who also dabbled in<br />
architecture. Alexander I ordered<br />
Engel’s original main guard<br />
façade to be demolished and<br />
replaced by the current granite<br />
staircase, which he felt would<br />
better enclose the church. The<br />
street on which the church is<br />
situated, Aleksanterinkatu, was<br />
named after the Tsar, and the<br />
statue of his son, Tsar Alexander<br />
II of Russia, was erected half a<br />
century later in the middle of the<br />
square by the church. BO
DETAILS / AIRPORT<br />
Capturing the essence<br />
of Lebanon:<br />
Beirut’s Rafic Hariri International <strong>Air</strong>port<br />
My first impressions of Beirut, which the<br />
New York Times last year dubbed the world’s<br />
number one destination, were naturally<br />
obtained at the airport. Among the first<br />
words that came to mind were:<br />
hospitality, modernity and<br />
adaptability, which – as I was soon<br />
to discover – also reflect the spirit<br />
of Lebanon’s capital, along with<br />
amazing resilience in the face of<br />
the harshest blows.<br />
The airport’s location on the<br />
shores of the Mediterranean<br />
would surely place it on the list<br />
of the most beautiful take-offs<br />
and landings, with a runway that<br />
stretches out into the sea to reduce noise<br />
in the capital. Branding itself “the hub of<br />
the Middle East,” Beirut has ambitious plans<br />
8 / AIRBALTIC.COM<br />
BeIRut<br />
Hopes to<br />
tRIple Its<br />
pAssengeR<br />
numBeRs,<br />
ReAcHIng<br />
16 mIllIon<br />
In 2035<br />
for the next 25 years. The airport’s new<br />
passenger terminal was completed in 2002,<br />
restoring Beirut to its position amongst the<br />
leading air travel centres in the region.<br />
Even the Israeli missile strikes<br />
four years ago, which temporarily<br />
paralysed air traffic, have not<br />
tarnished Beirut’s reputation as<br />
a modern, convenient airport.<br />
To increase passenger numbers,<br />
the airport will soon have a<br />
new taxiway and runway. Its<br />
existing runway will also be<br />
rebuilt, and 12 hangers for a new<br />
General Aviation Terminal will<br />
be constructed. There are also<br />
plans to build new gates for serving the<br />
mighty new <strong>Air</strong>bus A380. Currently Dubai<br />
International <strong>Air</strong>port is the central player<br />
Fly to Beirut<br />
with air<strong>Baltic</strong> from<br />
€135<br />
TExT: NORA TIRUmA<br />
PHOTO: gETTY ImAgEs<br />
Beirut-Rafic Hariri<br />
International <strong>Air</strong>port<br />
Opened in 1954;<br />
Served 6.8 million passengers<br />
in 2009;<br />
52 airlines flying from Beirut<br />
in 2010;<br />
Renamed Beirut-Rafic Hariri<br />
International <strong>Air</strong>port in honour<br />
of the Lebanese prime minister<br />
who was assassinated earlier<br />
that year.<br />
in the region, but Beirut hopes to gradually<br />
triple its passenger numbers, reaching 16<br />
million in 2035.<br />
By 2035, there may also be other means<br />
of ground transportation available, but<br />
currently the easiest way to get from the<br />
airport to the city centre is by taxi. The<br />
taxis don’t have meters, and thus the price<br />
that travellers must pay for the 9-kilometre<br />
journey ranges from 30 to 60 USD. It all<br />
depends on your bargaining skills. Another<br />
way of getting even a rough idea of the<br />
proper price is to ask your hotel to book<br />
the cab. Whatever the final amount, the trip<br />
from the airport is sure to be an adventure<br />
in itself, offering an introduction to<br />
Lebanese driving, with neither red lights nor<br />
speed limits seeming to apply here. BO<br />
www.beirutairport.gov.lb
DETAILS / LOCAL AgENDA TExT: NORA TIRUmA | PUBLICITY PhOTOs<br />
OCTOBER / 2010<br />
<strong>Baltic</strong> Pearl (Baltijas Pērle) film festival<br />
Riga / October 20-26<br />
<strong>Baltic</strong> Pearl is one of the most important, annual cultural events in Riga.<br />
Included in its repertoire are movies that have thrilled audiences at other film<br />
festivals in Cannes, Venice and Berlin. This year is no different.<br />
The latest Cannes Film Festival will be represented at <strong>Baltic</strong> Pearl by<br />
12 exemplary films, including Uncle Boonmee Who Can Recall His Past Lives<br />
by Apichatpong Weerasekathul, which won the coveted Palme d’Or award,<br />
Of Gods and Men by Xavier Beauvois (Grand Prix) and Mathieu Amalric’s On<br />
Tour (Best Director).<br />
One of the most outstanding films in the festival programme is A Single Man,<br />
directed by fashion designer Tom Ford, with the main role going to Colin<br />
Firth. His portrayal of British professor George Falconer has already been<br />
acclaimed by film critics as the actor’s magnum opus.<br />
It’s November 30, 1962. Los Angeles. Native Brit George Falconer, an English<br />
professor at a Los Angeles area college, is finding it difficult to cope with life.<br />
Jim, his personal partner of sixteen years, died in a car accident eight months<br />
earlier when he was visiting with family. This day, George has decided to get<br />
his affairs in order before he commits suicide that evening. As he routinely and<br />
fastidiously prepares for the suicide and post-suicide, George reminisces about<br />
his life with Jim. But George spends this day with various people, who see a man<br />
sadder than usual and who affect his thoughts about what he is going to do.<br />
A powerful and stylish film. Firth received an award for best actor in his role<br />
as Professor Falconer at last year’s Venice Film Festival.<br />
i www.balticpearl.lv<br />
Young talents’ gallery,<br />
concert no 1, Vilnius<br />
/ October 15<br />
This classical music concert will<br />
hopefully represent the beginning<br />
of a new tradition started by the<br />
Lithuanian maestro, conductor<br />
Gintaras Rinkevičius. It is part of<br />
a series of concerts designed to<br />
feature new talents one step before<br />
they become global icons in the<br />
world of classical music.<br />
The inaugural concert’s soloist<br />
is 24-year-old Jelena Semionova,<br />
the same violinist who previously<br />
won the Paganini competition<br />
in Moscow. At the age of nine,<br />
she obtained second prize at the<br />
international Sergei Prokofiev<br />
competition. At 15, she won the<br />
Grand Prix at the 21st Century<br />
Virtuosos. More than ten<br />
latvian design and<br />
lifestyle showroom Riija,<br />
6/8 Tērbatas Street, Riga<br />
/ Open from October 8<br />
The Latvian design and lifestyle<br />
showroom RIIJA is a new concept<br />
store in central Riga, offering<br />
one-stop shopping for products by<br />
various local designers. The broad<br />
selection ranges from fine bed<br />
international prizes are in her<br />
account, which explains the honour<br />
of opening this concert cycle at<br />
the Young Talents’ Gallery. Works<br />
by Franz Waxman, Maurice Ravel,<br />
Niccolò Paganini, Claude Debussy<br />
and Felix Mendelssohn are all in the<br />
program, with Rinkevičius himself<br />
conducting the Lithuanian State<br />
Symphony Orchestra.<br />
i www.lvso.lt<br />
linen, towels and casual clothes<br />
to original furniture, crockery<br />
and lampshades, all produced<br />
by local designers who combine<br />
traditional Latvian craftsmanship<br />
with a contemporary world-view.<br />
You are almost certain of finding<br />
something that you will like either<br />
for your own needs, or as a gift for<br />
a friend.
solo concert of the<br />
Latvija choir conducted<br />
by māris sirmais<br />
Moscow / October 31<br />
After an absence of several years,<br />
the Latvija choir is set to conquer<br />
Moscow once again. This time,<br />
it will perform at the Tchaikovsky<br />
Concert Hall, by special invitation<br />
of the Russian Minister for Culture.<br />
The programme will include Frank<br />
<strong>Baltic</strong> House<br />
(Балтийский дом)<br />
international theatre<br />
festival<br />
St. Petersburg /<br />
September 27-October 10<br />
<strong>Baltic</strong> House is not only one of<br />
the best annual showcases for<br />
European theatre performances, but<br />
also a workshop that traditionally<br />
leads to the creation of new<br />
names and new projects. During<br />
this year’s festival, for example,<br />
producers Andrey Zholdak and<br />
Vladas Bagdonas will stage a joint<br />
production written by Venedict<br />
Yerofeyev.<br />
Apart from the workshops, this<br />
Martin’s Mass for double choirs,<br />
Francis Poulenc’s Figure humaine,<br />
Arvo Pärt’s Deer’s cry, Pēteris<br />
Vasks’ Tomtit’s message (Zīles ziņa),<br />
Georgi Sviridov’s Winter morning,<br />
Ēriks Ešenvald’s Drop in the ocean<br />
(Piliens okeānā) and Veljo Tormis’<br />
Curse upon iron.<br />
The repertoire includes special<br />
musical contributions from<br />
Latvia, Estonia, Russia and further<br />
afield. Conductor Māris Sirmais<br />
claims that the Mass for double<br />
choirs and Figure humaine hail<br />
from the Golden Repertoire of<br />
world choir music, and require a<br />
particular degree of mastery and<br />
professionalism to be performed<br />
properly.<br />
Composer Veljo Tormis has<br />
incorporated the history and<br />
destinies of the three <strong>Baltic</strong><br />
nations for years in his music, and<br />
Arvo Pärt’s Deer’s cry is specially<br />
dedicated to the Latvija choir. The<br />
choir performed the world première<br />
of this piece in Ireland two years<br />
ago at the <strong>Baltic</strong> Voices in Ireland<br />
festival, to great critical acclaim.<br />
year’s programme will also be<br />
unique in other respects. Being<br />
the 20th anniversary festival, it will<br />
feature a selection of the best plays<br />
shown over the last decade, and<br />
will stage, among others, A long life,<br />
the internationally acclaimed work<br />
by Alvis Hermanis of the New Riga<br />
Theatre.<br />
New plays have also been promised,<br />
including Person. Merilin by Krystian<br />
Lupa, Medea by Kama Ginkas<br />
and Children of the Sun by Luke<br />
Percival. Moreover, the legendary<br />
Lithuanian director Eimuntas<br />
Nekrosius has produced Othello<br />
especially for this festival.<br />
i www.baltichouse.spb.ru
DETAILS / AgENDA<br />
Brussels<br />
The World of Lucas<br />
Cranach, Centre for<br />
Fine Arts / October 16 –<br />
January 23<br />
For the first time in any of the<br />
Benelux countries, an exhibition of<br />
works by Lucas Cranach, the famed<br />
16th-century German artist, will go<br />
on display. While Cranach’s Northern<br />
Renaissance art is considered to be<br />
among the pinnacles in European<br />
painting, art historians nevertheless<br />
philosophise over the reasons for<br />
Cranach’s success.<br />
As it turns out, the quality of his art,<br />
the genres that he chose (including<br />
hunting scenes and eroticism), the<br />
12 / AIRBALTIC.COM<br />
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©2001-2006 Takashi Murakami/Kaikai<br />
Kiki Co., Ltd. All Rights Reserved<br />
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patrons for whom he worked<br />
(including Martin Luther and<br />
Cardinal Albrecht of Brandenburg,<br />
although for most of his career<br />
Cranach was a court painter to the<br />
Electors of Saxony under Frederick<br />
the Wise in Wittenberg), and his<br />
talent as a businessman are all<br />
called upon.<br />
The extensive exhibition, which<br />
features 150 paintings, drawings<br />
and engravings, is arranged in<br />
chronological order. The works<br />
of 50 of Cranach’s peers are also<br />
included.<br />
23 rue Ravenstein<br />
www.bozar.be<br />
Paris<br />
Takashi Murakami.<br />
grand Apartment &<br />
Hall of mirrors. Château<br />
de Versailles, Versailles<br />
/ through 12 December<br />
2010<br />
Palace of Versailles, the place that<br />
saw Jeff Koons present his art last<br />
year, has now become home to<br />
the characters created by the super<br />
star of Japanese contemporary art<br />
Takashi Murakami.<br />
“For a Japanese like me, the<br />
Château de Versailles is one<br />
of the greatest symbols of<br />
Western history. It is the emblem<br />
of an ambition for elegance,<br />
Brune/Blonde<br />
La Cinémathèque française<br />
/ October 6 – January 16<br />
The exhibition Brune/Blonde, which<br />
opens its doors this month at the<br />
Cinémathèque française in Paris, is<br />
Fly to Paris<br />
with air<strong>Baltic</strong> from<br />
€50<br />
sophistication and art that most of<br />
us can only dream of.” Although,<br />
according to Murakami, he is<br />
aware that “the spark that set fire<br />
to the powder of the Revolution<br />
came directly from the centre of<br />
the building”, he admits to seeing<br />
it as a sort of fantastic fairytale that<br />
comes from a distant kingdom, as<br />
unreal to the Japanese artist as the<br />
samurai are to the French.<br />
“I am the Cheshire cat that<br />
welcomes Alice in Wonderland with<br />
its diabolic smile. […] With a broad<br />
smile I invite you all to discover the<br />
wonderland of Versailles.”<br />
en.chateauversailles.fr<br />
not just a beautiful and clichéd tale<br />
of legendary film blondes or femme<br />
fatale brunettes.<br />
This exhibition follows the<br />
phenomena of cinema blondes,<br />
of iconic episodes in “hair history,”<br />
whose influence significantly<br />
exceeded the limits of the silver<br />
screen, occasionally even dictating<br />
the fashions of an entire generation.<br />
Take the bob haircut of Louise Brooks<br />
in the 1920s, the platinum blonde<br />
Jean Harlow of the 1930s, the<br />
scandalous redhead Rita Hayworth in<br />
the 1940s, the cool blonde Catherine<br />
Deneuve in the 1960s, etc.<br />
51 Rue de Bercy, 75012 Paris<br />
www.cinematheque.fr
ulthaup<br />
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DETAILS / AgENDA<br />
Stockholm<br />
Thrice Upon a Time<br />
magasin 3, Stockholm<br />
Konsthall / until<br />
December 12<br />
One of the leading exhibition<br />
halls in Stockholm, Magasin 3, has<br />
opened its autumn season with<br />
Berlin<br />
Rheingold, staatsoper<br />
unter den linden,<br />
Am Schillertheater 17<br />
(première) / October 20, 23,<br />
27 and 31<br />
While the historical building of<br />
Staatsoper Unter den Linden<br />
undergoes major renovation works,<br />
the National Opera Theatre has<br />
relocated to a similarly legendary site<br />
in Berlin, the Schillertheater, which<br />
had been closed in the 1990s for<br />
Fly to Stockholm<br />
with air<strong>Baltic</strong> from<br />
€41<br />
a large display of items from past<br />
exhibitions. More than 200 works<br />
created by 66 authors are included,<br />
offering a near complete spectrum<br />
of art forms – drawings, paintings,<br />
photographs, video art and<br />
sculpture.<br />
A “sampler” of renowned artists,<br />
together with examples of creations<br />
by authors never yet exhibited in<br />
Stockholm, provides an opportunity<br />
for visitors to enjoy much of the art<br />
collection of Magasin 3.<br />
Frihamnen<br />
www.magasin3.com<br />
Fly to Berlin<br />
with air<strong>Baltic</strong> from<br />
€46<br />
economic reasons, This month, the<br />
Schillertheater will be reborn like a<br />
Phoenix from the ashes, with the<br />
performance of the first of Richard<br />
Wagner’s four epic operas, The Ring<br />
of the Nibelung; The Rhine Gold.<br />
This important cultural event will<br />
be directed by Guy Cassiers, who<br />
is one of the most notable theatre<br />
directors from the Netherlands.<br />
Bismarckstraße 110, 10625 Berlin<br />
www.schillertheater.com<br />
London<br />
Future Beauty: 30 Years<br />
of Japanese Fashion,<br />
Barbican Art Gallery<br />
/ October 15 – February 16<br />
When Japanese designer Rei<br />
Kawakubo from Comme des<br />
Garçons and Johji Yamamoto<br />
presented their first collections in<br />
Paris during the 1980s, it was akin<br />
to a culture shock in the metropolis<br />
of fashion.<br />
Japanese designers brought<br />
something completely different<br />
to the catwalks – costumes that<br />
created new shapes. Moreover, the<br />
creative duo deliberately avoided<br />
the use of colour, which is usually<br />
selected to inspire optimism.<br />
Instead, they used a monochrome<br />
palette of mostly black, grey and<br />
white. It was the apparent lack of<br />
colour that highlighted the impact<br />
Fly to London<br />
with air<strong>Baltic</strong> from<br />
€33<br />
of their ideas. Their style influence<br />
redefined the basis of European<br />
fashion forever.<br />
The exhibition at the London<br />
Barbican Centre, Future Beauty:<br />
30 Years of Japanese Fashion, is<br />
the first of its kind dedicated to<br />
Japanese fashion in Europe. Its<br />
curator is Akiko Fukai, one of the<br />
most distinguished historians of<br />
Japanese history and director of the<br />
Kyoto Costume Institute.<br />
Alongside outfits by the already<br />
legendary Rei Kawakubo, Johji<br />
Yamamoto and Issey Miyake, the<br />
works of new designers in the<br />
radical Japanese wing, including<br />
Tao Kurihara, Fumito Ganryu,<br />
Akira Naka and others, will also be<br />
featured.<br />
Silk street<br />
www.barbican.org.uk
DETAILS / BEIRUT<br />
Here, the beautiful and the ugly are<br />
woven together to form an unbelievably<br />
colorful whole – dusty construction<br />
sites and ruins, lively cafés overflowing<br />
with people, elegant hotels<br />
with rooftop swimming pools,<br />
beautiful, high-heeled Lebanese<br />
women and stone-faced young<br />
men in army uniforms.<br />
My taxi driver, an Armenian, tries<br />
to meander through. At times he<br />
does so quite brazenly, but that<br />
is the Beirut style of driving. We<br />
reach our goal – the Armenian<br />
quarter named Burj Hammoud – in<br />
20 minutes. The driver explains<br />
that actually, he is only half<br />
Armenian, as his father is French.<br />
In Beirut, that is nothing unusual.<br />
During the Armenian Genocide, which took<br />
place between 1915 and 1923, thousands<br />
of Armenians found refuge in Lebanon,<br />
and Beirut is still home to one of the largest<br />
16 / AIRBALTIC.COM<br />
tHe quARteR<br />
flouRIsHed<br />
Between<br />
tHe 1930s<br />
And tHe<br />
1970s, wHen<br />
mAnY of<br />
Its edIfIces<br />
weRe BuIlt<br />
Armenian diaspora communities.<br />
When the first refugees arrived here in 1915,<br />
the city granted them a swampy territitory<br />
on its northeastern side. The quarter<br />
flourished between the 1930s and the<br />
1970s, when many of its edifices<br />
were built. Compact, two- or<br />
three-storey buildings cast jagged<br />
shadows on one-another, air<br />
conditioners drip water unto the<br />
sidewalk and drying laundry flaps<br />
in the sky. The ground floors are<br />
often allocated to small shops<br />
that are crammed with all sorts<br />
of goods – offering, it seems,<br />
practically everything that you<br />
can imagine for sale.<br />
Burj Hammoud is world of its<br />
own, with small, narrow, winding<br />
streets where the first-time visitor<br />
can easily get lost. The quarter is full of<br />
shops, markets, crafts studios and eateries.<br />
As in any proper Armenian quarter, the sale<br />
of gold and silver takes place full swing.<br />
Fly to Beirut<br />
with air<strong>Baltic</strong> from<br />
€135<br />
The Armenian<br />
Quarter<br />
in Beirut<br />
At midday in dowtown Beirut,<br />
the latest luxury automobiles<br />
zoom past old clunkers that<br />
are, surprisingly, still running.<br />
This is one of the paradoxes<br />
in the Paris of the Middle<br />
East.<br />
TExT AND PHOTOS BY UNA mEIsTERE<br />
Many of the signs on the shops are written<br />
in Armenian, and at times it even seems<br />
that the feeling of Old Armenia is much<br />
more authentic here than in the streets of<br />
Yerevan, where you will rarely find anything<br />
historic anymore.<br />
Most of the streets are named after<br />
Armenian cities, including Yerevan Street<br />
and Armenia Street itself, which is one<br />
of the central avenues in the quarter. A<br />
number of streets, such as Marash Street,<br />
are also named after formerly Armenian<br />
towns that are now in Turkish territory.<br />
Real gourmands head for dinner to<br />
Varouge, a tiny eatery with just five tables.<br />
Finding this restaurant in the labyrinth of<br />
narrow streets is an experience in itself –<br />
simply knowing the address doesn’t help.<br />
Without assistance from the locals, you<br />
probably won’t find it. But what food and<br />
atmosphere! Authentically Armenian to<br />
the core. For a moment, you’ll forget that,<br />
geographically, at least, you are actually in<br />
Lebanon. BO
DETAILS / OCTOBER<br />
October<br />
© Ford Motor Company<br />
October 19,<br />
1987<br />
Black Monday occurred<br />
on Wall Street in New<br />
York City, as stocks<br />
plunged a record 508<br />
points or 22.6 per cent,<br />
the largest one-day<br />
drop in stock market<br />
history. The first major<br />
Wall Street crash entitled<br />
Black Tuesday occurred<br />
on October 29, 1929,<br />
leading to the Great<br />
Depression of the 1930s.<br />
i www.historyplace.com<br />
October 1,<br />
1908<br />
Henry Ford’s<br />
Model T, a<br />
“universal car”<br />
designed for the<br />
masses, went on<br />
sale for the first<br />
time.<br />
October 8, 1940<br />
John Lennon was born in<br />
Liverpool, England. He was a<br />
member of the Beatles, one of<br />
the most influential rock groups<br />
ever. The band first captivated<br />
audiences in England and<br />
Germany, then quickly drew<br />
the adulation of fans in the United States and<br />
the rest of the world. Lennon was murdered in<br />
New York City on December 8, 1980.<br />
Galerija BB / Arte BB<br />
If you can’t make it to London this fall, then you might consider spending<br />
an October afternoon at the new Galerija BB / Arte BB in Riga’s Berga Bazārs.<br />
The art gallery, which opened its doors this summer, interweaves the past<br />
and the present, mixing Latvian contemporary art with historical-style<br />
furniture and interior objects (objets d’art). | i www.galerijabb.lv<br />
October, U2<br />
October<br />
And the trees are<br />
stripped bare<br />
Of all they wear<br />
What do I care<br />
October<br />
And kingdoms rise<br />
And kingdoms fall<br />
But you go on<br />
U2’s second album October was released,<br />
appropriately enough, on October 12, 1981. The<br />
band entered the studio in July to record the<br />
album, but the album’s recording sessions were<br />
delayed when the briefcase containing Bono’s<br />
lyrics was stolen after a show in Portland, Oregon.<br />
The briefcase and all of its contents were returned<br />
to the band 23 years later, in 2004, by a local<br />
resident who claimed to have found them in the<br />
attic of a rented house.<br />
Gauguin<br />
Tate Modern, London<br />
From September 30 – January 16<br />
This retrospective of more than 100 works by<br />
French Post-Impressionist artist Paul Gauguin<br />
promises to be one of the year’s highlights in<br />
London’s art scene, and is the first major Gauguin<br />
exhibition in the British capital for half a century.<br />
Gauguin who, like his friend Vincent van Gogh,<br />
suffered from alcoholism and depression, died of<br />
syphilis French Polynesia in 1903, destitute and<br />
unrecognized. Now, a century after his death, his<br />
artworks are among the most admired and soughtafter<br />
by art lovers and collectors the world over.<br />
The exposition at the Tate Modern will feature<br />
a wide range of Gauguin’s works, including<br />
Tahiti paintings, ceramics, illustrated letters and<br />
sketchbooks.<br />
Bankside | i www.tate.org.uk
DETAILS / OCTOBER<br />
Six Jazz<br />
Gems For Autumn<br />
TExT: KLAss VAVERE | PHOTOS: JANIs sALINs, f64<br />
John coltrane quartet<br />
Ballads, 1962<br />
This giant of bebop and free jazz, with his<br />
legendary quartet, comes off as noticeably more<br />
traditional and relaxed than usual here, making<br />
this music perfect for a late evening’s ambience.<br />
According to legend, none of these pieces<br />
had ever been played before and nearly all of<br />
them were recorded on the first take. This is the<br />
elegance and simplicity of sheer genius!<br />
gato Barbieri<br />
Last Tango in Paris, 1973<br />
The film by Bernardo Bertolucci is an<br />
unforgettable psychosexual drama and a<br />
masterpiece of cinema. The soundtrack<br />
by the jazz master Gato Barbieri, however,<br />
leaves at least as lasting an impression.<br />
20 / AIRBALTIC.COM<br />
Dark evenings and black plastic, gentle melancholia and<br />
stormy whirlwinds. Nostalgia for what has been or has<br />
never been. The neverending urge for new beginnings,<br />
for exploring unknown territories, confronting new<br />
moods, new feelings and sounds. Autumn is good for<br />
jazz. For black jazz on black vinyl. They’re back.<br />
esbjörn svensson trio<br />
Leucocyte, 2008<br />
Until Esbjörn Svensson’s death in a<br />
tragic accident in 2008, Sweden’s EST<br />
was among the most intriguing jazz<br />
groups around, melding classical piano,<br />
double bass and drums with influences<br />
from rock, pop and electronic music.<br />
Leucocyte was their last album.<br />
Antonio carlos Jobim<br />
Stone Flower, 1970<br />
Lighter than air, brisk as a sea breeze and as<br />
graceful as a young girl – the typical composition<br />
by Antonio Carlos Jobim is all of these. The<br />
leading figure of 20th- century modern Brazilian<br />
music and bossa nova, Jobim has composed<br />
treasures of easy listening that are still enjoyed<br />
worldwide.<br />
chick corea<br />
Return to Forever, 1972<br />
The cornerstone of 1970s electric jazz and<br />
fusion, this was one of the few recordings<br />
of contemporary jazz to be released in the<br />
Soviet Union, for mysterious reasons and in<br />
mass quantity. The release inspired many<br />
music lovers and musicians on this side of<br />
the Iron Curtain.<br />
miles davis<br />
Sketches of Spain, 1960<br />
A truly beautiful and magical jazz album,<br />
created by Miles Davis in collaboration with<br />
the arranger Gil Evans and his orchestra.<br />
Less revolutionary musically and with less<br />
improvisation, this album offers more feeling,<br />
more atmosphere... and more Spain.
DETAILS / TRAVELER<br />
Una Meistere is the co-founder of<br />
anothertravelguide.com, a webzine for<br />
independent travellers. She is also a<br />
travel and fashion writer who regularly<br />
contributes to <strong>Baltic</strong> Outlook. Twice a<br />
month, she ventures out in search of new<br />
stories. In this interview, Una talks about the<br />
homework that needs to be done in order<br />
to reveal places and things that are worth<br />
experiencing.<br />
The change from<br />
“tourist” to “traveller”<br />
can occur at any<br />
moment<br />
I’ve read many theories about how a<br />
journalist must prepare for an interview.<br />
Much more time is spent gathering<br />
materials and preparing questions than<br />
during the interview itself. How is it<br />
with work trips for travel reviews?<br />
Like with any job, if you want to do it<br />
professionally, then you must do your<br />
homework. You need to thoroughly<br />
prepare yourself in order to find the key<br />
that will unlock the doors at your final<br />
destination.<br />
22 / AIRBALTIC.COM<br />
What do you mean by the word “key”?<br />
For the past 10 or 15 years, I have travelled<br />
to Paris regularly and now have the feeling<br />
that I know that city. Yet every time, I<br />
discover something new there. A year<br />
ago, I decided to to stay in a different<br />
part of Paris – the 20th arrondissement<br />
(administrative district), which was once<br />
considered to be a remote part of the city.<br />
The closest well-known place is the Père<br />
Lachaise cemetery, where many famous<br />
people have been buried, including Jim<br />
Morrison, Oscar Wilde and Edith Piaf. Now<br />
the 20th arrondissement is a stylish Paris<br />
location with artists’ studios, jazz bars, small<br />
shops and a hotel designed by Philippe Stark<br />
on the site of a former parking lot.<br />
Warsaw is also a good example. At first it<br />
might seem to be a rather unattractive city,<br />
particularly if we compare it to such inspiring<br />
architectural divas as Paris, Rome or Venice.<br />
However, Warsaw houses a hidden gem<br />
called Praga, a formerly working-class area<br />
with a rather crime-ridden past. Part of this<br />
gritty aura remains today. It is a captivating<br />
place, with fantastic theatre performances,<br />
exhibition halls, fashion designer showrooms<br />
and wonderful shops. There are at least<br />
three parts of Warsaw like Praga. To travel<br />
there and begin to explore one of them –<br />
that is the “key”, an alternative view from an<br />
unconventional, yet marvellous vantage point.<br />
TExT: NORA TIRUmA | PHOTO: AINARs ERgLIs<br />
The key to Travelling<br />
Like a Travel<br />
Writer<br />
Much more than just “been there,<br />
seen that”.<br />
To travel around the world and<br />
write about it. Sounds like a plum<br />
job, doesn’t it? Actually, it’s not as<br />
easy as it may seem, as quite a lot<br />
of work needs to be invested into<br />
this emploi.<br />
You travel at least twice a month. How<br />
do you prevent your voyages from<br />
becoming mundane and routine trips?<br />
Writing about trips is not like working at a<br />
lathe, although the work is also quite intense<br />
and the amount of information that must<br />
be processed is considerable. If you can<br />
maintain the ability to marvel, to be surprised<br />
at your new discoveries, then everything<br />
is alright. My curiosity and my desire to<br />
see new things have not diminished. I still<br />
remain in contact with many of the people<br />
that I have met on my trips.<br />
What is on your check list of places that<br />
you always make sure to visit at a new<br />
location?<br />
A city’s central market tends to be a vital key<br />
to its further discovery. It could be the Middle-<br />
Eastern souk in Marrakech, the fish market<br />
in Barcelona or the Rialto in Venice. Markets<br />
bring you closer to the soul of the city.<br />
Much can also be discerned from<br />
modern art museums, small galleries<br />
and bookstores. These are places that I<br />
always try to visit, because sometimes<br />
a conversation with a gallery owner will<br />
provide a valuable key in getting to know a<br />
city better. In Geneva there is a wonderful<br />
art and design district called Des Baines,<br />
full of galleries. The places suggested by<br />
people met at these kinds of locations are
frequently more interesting than those<br />
mentioned in official travel guides.<br />
If you want to find the right spot, then talk to<br />
the locals. Speaking of bookstores, they are<br />
an irreplaceable part of a city’s bloodflow.<br />
They have absorbed everything – both the<br />
city’s past history and its current way of<br />
life. Paris has a fantastic bookstore named<br />
Shakespeare & Co. The owner is about 80<br />
years old, and as recently as four years ago,<br />
he personally still ran the shop.<br />
OK, then where should one begin?<br />
It all depends on the location. If you are<br />
heading to Venice, then a good place to<br />
start is the Punta della Dogana (designed<br />
by architect Tadao Ando), a contemporary<br />
art museum that opened last year in a<br />
former customs warehouse. It was founded<br />
by the French art collector François Pinault.<br />
This museum has already become a new<br />
symbol of the city. Further trails are sure to<br />
lead onward from there.<br />
Your umpteenth time in Paris might just<br />
as well begin at the recently opened Merci<br />
concept store, which is located on several<br />
floors of an old industrial building and<br />
offers items from all around the world. It<br />
also features a reading-room and a café.<br />
The items offered range in price from quite<br />
affordable to super expensive. The Merci<br />
concept is ideally suited to our times.<br />
Among other things, it encourages us<br />
to re-evaluate our buying habits. Unlike<br />
another sales centres that propagate the<br />
culture of mass consumption, this new store<br />
encourages socially responsible shopping.<br />
If you want to find<br />
the right spot, then<br />
talk to the locals<br />
After covering its costs, the store donates<br />
its surplus income to charity. These types of<br />
places are hot right now.<br />
It is also interesting to look at a place from a<br />
specific vantage point. If you have already<br />
been to Madrid, then try another key – look<br />
at it through the eyes of filmmaker Pedro<br />
Almodóvar. Or, for example, enjoy Vienna<br />
from the perspective of Carol Reed’s The<br />
Third Man (1949). This film is one of the city’s<br />
symbols. Special tourist routes – even an<br />
entire museum – have been dedicated to it,<br />
although few people take advantage of this.<br />
DETAILS / TRAVELER<br />
How tenuous is the difference between<br />
a tourist and a traveller?<br />
These are words that everyone tries to<br />
manipulate. Everyone would like to see<br />
themselves as “travellers” rather than<br />
“tourists.” The word “tourist” has acquired<br />
a negative connotation, it has now almost<br />
become a swear-word, although most of<br />
the time, we are all “tourists.”<br />
The change from “tourist” to “traveller” can<br />
occur at any moment, when one wants<br />
to see more and look deeper, not just tick<br />
off an item on a checklist. Nonetheless,<br />
even when you have acquired a feel for<br />
a place and have seen more than just its<br />
downtown core, even then, when you<br />
are seated at a club and shooting the<br />
breeze with the locals, you will still be a<br />
newcomer.<br />
In truth, it has never been important for<br />
me to define this difference. The main<br />
thing lies in the feelings and impressions<br />
that one gains. Travelling gives me the<br />
same thing as a good book or film. For<br />
a while, you are immersed in a totally<br />
different environment that takes up all of<br />
your attention. I could never sit around<br />
at home in my slippers reading National<br />
Geographic and get the same feelings. BO
DETAILS / INTERVIEW<br />
TExT: RIhARDs KALNINs | PHOTO: JANIs sALINs, f64<br />
on the Block<br />
New Kid<br />
Markus Salmberg is the latest pilot to join<br />
air<strong>Baltic</strong>’s fleet of commercial aviators.<br />
He is also the first person to graduate from<br />
the air<strong>Baltic</strong> Training Center’s Type Rating<br />
Program, where pilots learn how to fly<br />
a Boeing 737 aircraft.<br />
Markus took his <strong>Air</strong>line Transport Pilot License<br />
exams in Sweden, where he attended flight<br />
school, but finalized his commercial pilot’s<br />
training here in Riga. A native of Stockholm,<br />
Markus sat down with <strong>Baltic</strong> Outlook at a<br />
café in his new hometown to talk about his<br />
experience at the air<strong>Baltic</strong> Training Center.<br />
24 / AIRBALTIC.COM<br />
Could you explain what the Boeing 737<br />
Type Rating Program entails?<br />
The program starts off with the theoretical<br />
and technical side of the Boeing 737<br />
aircraft. For 10 to 14 days, you study all of<br />
the aircraft’s systems. You get to know the<br />
aircraft inside and out.<br />
Then the preparations begin for the flight<br />
simulator. You spend two to four days with<br />
an instructor practicing in a paper mockup<br />
of the Boeing 737. Here you just go over<br />
procedures, and learn where the different<br />
switches are. You also practice “call-outs,” for<br />
example, what each pilot says during the<br />
takeoff sequence – which actions to do at<br />
what time. This procedure is very strict in<br />
order to maintain a high safety level. And<br />
this prepares you for your first session in the<br />
flight simulator.
So, what happens in the flight<br />
simulator?<br />
During the flight training, you go through<br />
nearly every possible scenario. You start<br />
off with normal operations. Then you<br />
practice all of the non-normal events that<br />
can occur. They’re listed in a checklist in<br />
the pilot’s Quick Reference Handbook.<br />
You go through that manual, so you<br />
know beforehand what you are going<br />
to practice, and you can study up the<br />
night before. Then you practice it in the<br />
simulator.<br />
Every scenario is tested: smoke in the<br />
cockpit, engine flame-out, engine fires,<br />
severe engine damage, pressurization<br />
problems in the cabin, and explosive<br />
decompression at high altitude – when<br />
you have to put on your oxygen mask,<br />
establish communications and do the<br />
remaining memory items.<br />
Everything must be done according to<br />
procedure. You can’t just sit there and<br />
wonder what to do next. Certain actions,<br />
for example, engine failure at takeoff, are<br />
very time-critical. These are practiced a<br />
lot, to make the most critical parts of the<br />
flight ingrained in your backbone, so that<br />
your reactions become instinctual.<br />
What are the limitations of the<br />
simulator? In other words, what can’t<br />
be simulated?<br />
In the simulator you can practice very<br />
complex and dangerous situations. But<br />
you always hope that you will never have<br />
to experience them in practice and say:<br />
“Oh no, this is for real!”<br />
In the simulator, as in real life, you have<br />
to do everything very quickly. The first<br />
time that you try something, you may be<br />
a little wobbly, and then you really start to<br />
sweat. Of course, anytime the instructors<br />
see that the trainees are handling things<br />
pretty well, they’ll throw in something<br />
extra for you to do. So you can’t just sit<br />
there in the simulator and relax – there’s<br />
always something happening in there.<br />
When is the first time that you get to<br />
fly an actual Boeing 737?<br />
During base training. You need to do<br />
six takeoffs and six landings with a real<br />
aircraft, and you fly in the traffic circuit<br />
DETAILS / INTERVIEW<br />
over the airport. Just to get a feel for it. The<br />
simulator simulates very well, of course, but<br />
it is essential to get the real feel of an actual<br />
aircraft.<br />
What is the greatest skill that a person<br />
needs to have in order to become a<br />
pilot?<br />
You must continually<br />
try to improve your<br />
skills<br />
That is a hard question. The flight<br />
psychology specialists might know the<br />
answer to that one! I think that you have<br />
to be normal and balanced, as there are<br />
no superhumans. You must continually try<br />
to improve your skills. And if you are open<br />
to your own weaknesses, then it is easier<br />
to work on them and overcome them. BO
OUTLOOK / PROmO<br />
A Home<br />
to Enjoy the Good Life<br />
PHOTOS: COURTEsY Of Nira foNds<br />
Although the exteriors of these<br />
edifices are replete with ornate sculptures –<br />
smiling faces, long-haired maidens and<br />
muscular torsos holding up balconies –<br />
many of the interiors have not aged well<br />
over the past 100 years. Now, however, a<br />
new construction project is revolutionizing<br />
how historical Art Nouveau buildings can be<br />
adapted to suit modern-day needs.<br />
The Alexandra is the city’s latest luxury<br />
apartment project to be housed in a historic<br />
Art Nouveau building. This particular edifice<br />
on Ausekļa iela 4, in the district known<br />
as the Quiet Centre (Klusais centrs), was<br />
completed in 1900 by the architect Rudolph<br />
Heinrich Zirkwitz.<br />
26 / AIRBALTIC.COM<br />
The Alexandra wishes to stand a class apart<br />
from other recent renovation projects and<br />
is striving to reach the highest possible<br />
level of excellence, catering to customers<br />
who demand only the very best in services,<br />
materials and facilities. Located on quiet,<br />
tree-lined street near the Riga Passenger<br />
Port, Alexandra has a pristine, white façade<br />
embellished with classic Art Nouveau<br />
ornamentations, including a central sculpture<br />
of a maiden trimmed with gold leaf.<br />
Hidden behind the ornate façade is a wealth<br />
of modern accoutrements in 36 brand new<br />
apartments, with layouts designed to fit the<br />
needs of the 21 st century. The entire project<br />
is more akin to a five-star hotel than your<br />
typical upscale apartment complex, and<br />
The streets<br />
of Riga are<br />
lined with<br />
hundreds<br />
of elegant<br />
Art Nouveau<br />
buildings,<br />
most of them<br />
constructed<br />
at the turn<br />
of the 20 th<br />
century.<br />
features such extra services as a full-time<br />
concierge who speaks several languages<br />
and who gets to know each resident on<br />
a first-name basis. In the lobby, residents<br />
can arrange for apartment cleaning,<br />
car washing, dry cleaning, and even<br />
trash removal with the concierge, who<br />
ensures that each occupant’s needs and<br />
requirements are met at any hour of the day.<br />
The elegance of this newly renovated<br />
apartment building is evident even before<br />
you step across the threshold into the<br />
marble lobby. The complex has a top-ofthe-line<br />
parking system that is certainly the<br />
first of its kind in Riga. When drivers pull<br />
through the central gate of the building and<br />
pass into the inner courtyard, they simply
steer their automobile into a designated<br />
“garage,” park the vehicle, step outside, and<br />
enter their personalized code into a keypad.<br />
The car will then be transported along a<br />
series of motorized tracks to a parking spot<br />
hidden inside the first three floors of the<br />
building. When residents wish to retrieve<br />
their cars, the process is reversed, and their<br />
automobiles arriving facing forward, so that<br />
they can jump right in and drive off.<br />
In keeping with the five-star-hotel standards<br />
of service for its residents, Alexandra will<br />
offer its inhabitants a range of meals from<br />
The entire project<br />
is more akin to<br />
a five-star hotel<br />
the building’s own in-house café. These can<br />
be ordered by phone from each apartment,<br />
just like room service at a luxury hotel.<br />
Residents will also have access to a private<br />
party room in the semi-basement. This room<br />
is fully equipped with a bar, lounge and<br />
card-playing room with a special ventilation<br />
system overhead. Naturally, residents will<br />
be able to order whatever they choose for<br />
their parties – from a full-spread banquet to<br />
a simple, intimate dinner for a small circle of<br />
guests. This way, they won’t have to worry<br />
about the catering for their private events,<br />
or about cleaning up afterwards.<br />
Next to the private party room, Alexandra<br />
will feature a gym and fitness center, as well<br />
as a steam room that can also be rented<br />
out for private functions. However, most<br />
of the apartments upstairs have space<br />
for saunas and steam rooms, as well as<br />
multiple fireplaces and other amenities.<br />
This is already the case in the ultra deluxe<br />
units – three-storey apartments with access<br />
to a private, rooftop deck. The decks are<br />
connected to each apartment with large,<br />
sliding glass doors, which can be left open<br />
during the warmer months, effectively<br />
merging the indoor and outdoor spaces.<br />
When the occupants step outside onto<br />
their private rooftop decks, they can catch<br />
a glimpse of the Daugava River, just two<br />
blocks away. On warm summer nights, they<br />
can even see the fireworks displays from<br />
nearby parks and from the Old Town, just a<br />
quick five-minute drive from the building.<br />
The emphasis on light and visibility has<br />
been extended to the entire apartment<br />
building. The architects have implemented a<br />
complex system of mirrors to bring sunlight<br />
into even the darkest spaces of the interior<br />
courtyard – thereby increasing the volume<br />
of light – and have erected or refurbished<br />
balconies, terraces, and winter gardens on all<br />
floors of the building.<br />
Most of all, Alexandra caters to those for<br />
whom time is at a premium – who value their<br />
time above almost all else, and who don’t<br />
wish to be encumbered by the details. At this<br />
OUTLOOK / PROmO<br />
exclusive apartment building, everything will<br />
be done for you. If you wish, you won’t have<br />
to clean your house, wash the dishes, cook<br />
your meals, organize the catering of your<br />
private parties or even park your own car. This<br />
will leave you free to do the most important<br />
thing of all: enjoy life at its fullest. And what<br />
better place to enjoy life than at home.<br />
For more information about the Alexandra project,<br />
please contact Jevgenija Markova, at (+371) 26455333.<br />
www.aleksandraapartments.com<br />
BALTIC OUTLOOK / OCTOBER 2010 / 27
DETAILS / sTYLE<br />
A Cockpit<br />
Timepiece<br />
Add the aviation industry to Swiss watchmaking<br />
know-how and you get these four<br />
masterpieces to make your time fly.<br />
28 / AIRBALTIC.COM<br />
2 3 4<br />
1<br />
PUBLICITY PhOTOs<br />
1/ sturdy, efficient and accurate<br />
Breitling: Chronospace<br />
Over the last 125 years, Breitling has launched a number of stellar<br />
models intended for pilots, including the famous Navitimer with<br />
its circular slide rule capable of handling all essential airborne<br />
navigation calculations. Today, this privileged partner of aviation<br />
has created a new multifunction wrist instrument that will find its<br />
place in all cockpits, and is distinguished both on the ground and<br />
in the air by its innovative design featuring a star-shaped bezel.<br />
Designed for intensive professional use, the Chronospace boasts<br />
an impressive array of functions useful to pilots, including 1/100th<br />
of a second chronograph with split times, alarm, countdown,<br />
dual time zone display with independent alarm, 24–hour military<br />
time, Coordinated Universal Time (UTC) and a perpetual calendar,<br />
all powered by a chronometer-certified Breitling SuperQuartz<br />
movement that is ten times more accurate than an ordinary<br />
quartz caliber.<br />
Retail price: 3870 €<br />
i www.breitling.com<br />
2/ facing the extreme<br />
Bell & Ross: BR 03 Type Aviation<br />
In a quest for a functional watch that would also serve as an<br />
emblem for its pilots, the French <strong>Air</strong> Force requested proposals<br />
from three watch–making brands highly regarded in the<br />
aeronautical sector. They chose Bell & Ross, and thus this new<br />
model was created. Presented to the Chief of Staff of the French<br />
<strong>Air</strong> Force in October 2008, it has been available to the public<br />
since the beginning of 2009 (though this limited edition version<br />
of the watch doesn’t feature the <strong>Air</strong> Force logo).<br />
This model continues the long tradition with its 42mm black<br />
carbon-coated stainless steel case, black dial and luminescent<br />
paint to optimize night reading. The timepieces are fitted with<br />
bidirectional rotating bezel, two LCD displays, luminescent hour<br />
hands, and a silver oxide high drain battery providing 35 months<br />
power reserve. Water resistant to 100 meters, the BR 03 Type<br />
Aviation is secured with a black rubber strap and steel clasp.<br />
Retail price: 2200 €<br />
i www.bellross.com<br />
3/ the pro<br />
Revue Thommen: New <strong>Air</strong>speed Chronograph<br />
Starting off as a wristwatch and pocket watch producer, for<br />
the last 90 years Revue Thommen has also made a name in<br />
the aviation industry. As an aircraft instrument manufacturer,<br />
the company has almost no competition when it comes to<br />
understanding the needs of pilots.<br />
Details: automatic chronograph with date indication. All stainless<br />
steel case, diameter 45.5 mm, screw-in see-through case back<br />
and anti-reflective double faced sapphire crystal.<br />
Retail price: 2380 €<br />
i www.revue-thommen.ch<br />
4/ the moonwatch<br />
Omega: Speedmaster Professional<br />
This timepiece was intended to be worn for intra and extra<br />
vehicular activities on all the missions, including the moonwalks.<br />
This complicated watch features a function to measure short<br />
time periods in addition to its function for permanently displaying<br />
hours, minutes and seconds. The tachymeter measures speed,<br />
which can be read off in kilometers per hour based on 1000<br />
meters distance. Technical data: steel case, diameter 42 mm,<br />
water resistance 50m. Battery reserve 48 hours.<br />
Retail price: 3340 €<br />
i www.omegawatches.ch
DETAILS / REVIEW TExT: PAULs BANKOVsKIs, NORA TIRUmA | PUBLICITY PhOTOs AND COURTEsY Of CRITERION COLLECTION<br />
Klaxons.<br />
Surfing the Void.<br />
polydor<br />
After a three-year wait, fans of the<br />
British alternative rock group Klaxons<br />
have finally got a new album to<br />
listen to. The group started work on<br />
a new recording immediately after<br />
the release of its début album Myths<br />
of the Near Future, which came out<br />
in 2007 and received various awards,<br />
as well as critical acclaim.<br />
However, the recording of Klaxons’<br />
second album was fraught with<br />
difficulties. After some unsuccessful<br />
studio experiments, the group<br />
changed its producer. Then the<br />
Polydor distributors announced<br />
that they considered the recorded<br />
material to be “too experimental”<br />
and bound for commercial failure.<br />
Following further disagreements,<br />
creative setbacks and the<br />
group’s own attempts to create<br />
a “progressive fatalism” genre<br />
recording, an album has now come<br />
about, in which the melody and<br />
lyricism of Klaxons’ first recording<br />
has not been hopelessly lost.<br />
Roger norum and<br />
James proctor. Rough<br />
Guide to Finland.<br />
Rough guides<br />
Released this summer, the Rough<br />
Guide to Finland is faithful to the<br />
style adopted by the Rough Guides<br />
publishing house. Notwithstanding<br />
its incredibly light weight, this book<br />
has something for everybody,<br />
Elīna Garanča.<br />
Habanera.<br />
deutsche grammophon<br />
At the end of August, Deutsche<br />
Grammophon simultaneously<br />
although it focuses mostly on<br />
travellers who like to get off the<br />
beaten path.<br />
Finns have long kept their wonderful<br />
country a secret, say the authors,<br />
who go on to reveal why. Finland’s<br />
enviable standard of living, cradleto-grave<br />
social structure, easily<br />
walkable capital, and multitude of<br />
national parks, forests and rivers<br />
present just a glimpse of what this<br />
country has to offer.<br />
The authors write just as much<br />
about Kiasma, the contemporary<br />
art museum, as hiking along the<br />
Russian border or Finnish sauna<br />
etiquette (there are about 2 million<br />
saunas in the country, which means<br />
approximately one for every two<br />
inhabitants).<br />
The research, writing and<br />
photography was done by the<br />
authors themselves: James Proctor,<br />
a former BBC correspondent in<br />
Scandinavia, and Roger Norum,<br />
a travel writer with a Doctor’s<br />
degree in Social Anthropology at<br />
Oxford University. <strong>Baltic</strong> Outlook is<br />
proud to have Norum as one of its<br />
contributors.<br />
released the Habanera album<br />
of Spanish and Gypsy songs<br />
recorded by world-famous<br />
Latvian mezzo-soprano Elīna<br />
Garanča, as well as a DVD<br />
video of Garanča singing<br />
Carmen at New York’s<br />
Metropolitan Opera.<br />
In advertising the Habanera<br />
album, the music company<br />
seems to have decided that it<br />
is better to see classical music<br />
once than to hear it seven<br />
times, as Garanča’s Carmen<br />
video clip has been created<br />
according to all of pop music’s<br />
video-clip standards. It can be<br />
viewed on Youtube.
John cassavetes. Five<br />
Films (Shadows / Faces<br />
/ A Woman Under the<br />
Influence / The Killing<br />
of a Chinese Bookie /<br />
Opening Night )<br />
criterion collection<br />
www.hunch.com<br />
Tell us what you are looking for<br />
in the internet, and we will tell<br />
you what you are – or something<br />
along those lines. Hunch.com<br />
(created by a co-founder of the<br />
image and video hosting website<br />
Flickr) is designed to help you make<br />
Jānis Zābers.<br />
Opera arias.<br />
upe tuviem un tāliem<br />
In August of this year, the<br />
outstanding Latvian tenor Jānis<br />
Five outstanding films by American<br />
independent cinema legend John<br />
Cassavetes have been gathered in<br />
one set – this collection of treasures<br />
should be found in every cinema<br />
enthusiast’s home. In accordance<br />
with popular legend, Cassavetes<br />
is alleged to have created his films<br />
through an extended improvisation<br />
process. For this reason,<br />
considerably more footage was<br />
filmed than appeared in the final<br />
product.<br />
In his interviews, Cassavetes stated<br />
that his filming was a carefully<br />
prepared and controlled process, in<br />
which the same actors were usually<br />
involved, along with the director’s<br />
friends and acquaintances. Nearly<br />
all of the films were made using the<br />
same interior – Cassavetes’ home.<br />
This is cinema for those who have<br />
grown tired of Hollywood films and<br />
is a great gift for intellectual soulseekers.<br />
shopping and other decisions based<br />
on your interests and tastes.<br />
Once you log in to the website,<br />
you are asked to answer a<br />
number of questions in order to<br />
create a personal taste profile,<br />
after which the portal can make<br />
recommendations that are<br />
personalized specifically to your<br />
preferences. In other words, it<br />
offers “hunches” about what you<br />
might like to buy, see or do. Upon<br />
completion of the questions, you<br />
are presented with the results, with<br />
which you can agree or disagree to<br />
help “train” the system.<br />
Zābers would have turned 75. In<br />
honour of his birthday, a selection<br />
of the singer’s best recordings has<br />
been released. “The Latvian nation’s<br />
bright genius,” “a real Puccini,” “the<br />
nation’s most loved singer,” “a true<br />
artist and wonderful singer” – these<br />
are only some of the descriptions<br />
that were earned by Jānis Zābers<br />
during his short lifetime (he died in<br />
1973 at the age of 37).<br />
Zābers was a frequent guest at<br />
opera theatres not only in Latvia,<br />
but throughout the Soviet Union,<br />
where he thrilled audiences with his<br />
talent and appeal. It was only due to<br />
the capricious disposition of Soviet<br />
bureaucrats that Zābers didn’t get to<br />
sing his much-loved Rudolph role at<br />
La Scala in Milan in 1964.
YOUR NExT DESTINATION<br />
Tbilisi:<br />
Where the East Meets the West<br />
Most airplanes land in Tbilisi at night. Observed<br />
when racing through the streets from the airport<br />
at four in the morning, the city seems like<br />
Cinderella ready to attend a ball. The Georgians<br />
don’t skimp on electricity – their capital is<br />
veiled in a gaudy golden mirage. Small churches<br />
glimmer subtly, like amber. A carnival of light, the<br />
television tower overlooks them.<br />
TExT by
Bad luck, somebody has already<br />
taken the Anothertravelguide<br />
brochure about Tbilisi,<br />
but don’t worry, all the<br />
information is also available at<br />
ANOTHERTRAVELGUIDE.COM in<br />
cooperation with air<strong>Baltic</strong>.<br />
YOUR NExT DESTINATION<br />
BALTIC OUTLOOK / OCTOBER 2010 / 33
YOUR NExT DESTINATION<br />
The Holy Trinity (Sameba) Cathedral.<br />
The real beauties of the night can be found in Rustaveli Avenue –<br />
in the historic wooden houses with the intricate balconies that are<br />
characteristic of the city. They seem far more real than the recent<br />
structures and have survived many a shift of eras. Neoclassical<br />
architecture from the late 19 th century, decorative and colourful,<br />
adds a European dimension to the Georgian capital. The Rustaveli<br />
Theatre is a rare gem – definitely one of the most marvellous<br />
Careful planning is completely<br />
unnecessary, since everything will<br />
plan itself<br />
buildings in Tbilisi. The nearby Opera is currently closed for<br />
restoration.<br />
Overall, one’s first impression of this city is of having arrived at<br />
the crossroads of the East and the West. At night, with its lighting<br />
effects, Tbilisi seems to be in the West. By day, its Soviet apartment<br />
blocks unmasked – the East. This may be the secret of Tbilisi’s<br />
attraction; it is both a strangely lovely city and cacophonous,<br />
capable of inspiring either ecstasy or despair by turns. At the<br />
Ambasadori, for instance – a luxury hotel in the very heart of the<br />
city – a pleasant Georgian girl tells us of the hotel’s expansion<br />
plans. The extension will be located in the courtyard, where there<br />
is a fine 18 th -century wooden building in terrible condition. Will<br />
it be restored? No, she says – it will simply be demolished. It’s too<br />
old. If something in Tbilisi stands in the way of somebody’s plans<br />
or creature comforts, it will be torn down unless it is under the<br />
wing of UNESCO. The architectural heritage of the city is hardly<br />
protected at all.<br />
At the same time, however, Tbilisi has a rare if not unique feature –<br />
even if you are visiting the city for the first time, within an hour<br />
you will likely no longer feel like a tourist. Chances are that you<br />
will meet someone who will introduce you to someone who will<br />
34 / AIRBALTIC.COM<br />
The artists hawk their works in the park<br />
nearby „the Dry Bridge”.<br />
introduce you to someone else and so on, so that after only a<br />
couple of days you will become accustomed to it and it will seem<br />
that there are more friends in Georgia than there are homes.<br />
Careful planning is completely unnecessary, since everything will<br />
plan itself; your new friends will arrange for your stay, suggest your<br />
route and detail your transportation options. Perhaps this is why<br />
there are no decent travel books in the shops. Why would anybody<br />
need one?!<br />
The hospitality gene<br />
Whenever possible, it’s best to spend the night in Tbilisi (and<br />
anywhere else in Georgia) at someone’s home. Or at the very least<br />
in a guesthouse. There are many such guesthouses, and they offer<br />
a chance to get at least a little closer to the fabled hospitality of<br />
Georgians. It’s in their genes, and no matter how exaggerated<br />
some of the stories may seem – Georgian hospitality is so generous<br />
that it simply cannot be described. Though the locals believe<br />
that the western leanings of the younger generation at times<br />
permit some rational reservations to steal into the amplitude<br />
of the Georgian heart, such reservations are the exception. To a<br />
Georgian, a guest is everything. Even family and friends rank lower<br />
in significance. Guests must be treated properly, sparing nothing.<br />
When invited to a home, its every corner will be shown to you, with<br />
nothing concealed. It’s for real, whether it is a Soviet-era apartment<br />
or a stately house. Georgian hospitality is devoid of any pomposity.<br />
It is boundless, and it is as natural and essential as bread or water.<br />
We stayed with the Georgian friends of our Riga friends in Tbilisi.<br />
The house in which they live has been in their family for six<br />
generations. It’s on the geographically enticing hilly side of the<br />
city, requiring a walk up the winding streets off Rustaveli Avenue,<br />
the Eiffel… oops – the Television Tower above. This area has an<br />
additional advantage – when the city below simmers at 37° C,<br />
it’s two degrees cooler up there and seems even more pleasant<br />
because of the breezes. A drawback is that now and then electricity<br />
will still disappear without explanation, with no warning, and no<br />
one knowing when there might be electricity again, which is why<br />
nearly every house has its own generator. Those who live in the<br />
taller buildings nearby do not trust lifts for this reason; getting<br />
trapped is definitely no fun. The locals joke that the occasional lack
The wave – like new pedestrian Bridge of Peace. The typical courtyard of the old Tbilisi.<br />
of electricity reflects Saakashvili’s lack of love for the capital, where<br />
he received fewer votes – and for this neighbourhood, where he<br />
received no votes at all. In some areas there are problems with<br />
running water, too. Like every historic wooden house, the one we<br />
stayed in has an interior courtyard garden – ours had a century<br />
old pomegranate tree at its centre. The sounds of the city rarely<br />
penetrate and these courtyards constitute a whole other world.<br />
There was always their house<br />
wine, decanted in Coca-Cola<br />
bottles, in the refrigerator<br />
There was always chilled white wine in the refrigerator and their<br />
house wine, red, decanted in Coca-Cola bottles. The Georgians<br />
have discovered a silver lining in the country’s tense relations with<br />
Russia – cut off from the Russian market and seeking markets in the<br />
West, the quality of Georgia’s wines, some of which are exceptional<br />
and many of which are unique, has improved.<br />
A second courtyard is found between the houses, where the<br />
traditional wooden balconies are the unifying element. Some<br />
have been glassed in by now, and the time when women would<br />
fling the windows of open to shout to their neighbours that the<br />
khachapuri was baked, their friends hurrying over to visit, is slipping<br />
into the past. Otherwise, life continues as it did. Neighbours know<br />
each other and wish each other a happy day in the mornings.<br />
Neighbours are like an extended family, together in joy and sorrow.<br />
Khachapuri is still baked at home, every lady of the house having<br />
her own recipe – homemade khachapuri is quite different from<br />
the fatty filled bread with an egg in the middle that is sold as fast<br />
food in the city. There are many such eateries in Tbilisi, beloved by<br />
local office workers, students and young people in their respective<br />
neighbourhoods. Georgians used to return to their families for<br />
luncheon, too, but modernity has put an end to that. It’s impossible<br />
YOUR NExT DESTINATION<br />
to work without a proper Georgian lunch, however – khinkali,<br />
shashlik, lobio and other national foods are obligatory.<br />
Not far from where we stayed the famous film director Sergei<br />
Parajanov once lived. During his Tbilisi period, Parajanov earned<br />
money by making dolls that Georgians mount on the fronts of their<br />
cars at weddings. The demand for Parajanov’s dolls is said to have<br />
been huge.<br />
The Heart of the City<br />
According to legend, the 5 th century ruler King Vakhtang Gorgasali<br />
once downed a pheasant that fell into an impenetrable thicket.<br />
Vakhtang found it in a spring that was so hot he could eat<br />
the extracted bird immediately, the fowl already cooked in its<br />
simmering waters. The king saw this as a good omen and founded<br />
his capital, the city’s name derived from the warmth of the spring.<br />
The sulphur spring the ruler discovered has been a renowned spa<br />
complex for centuries. Locals make use of it at least once a week,<br />
sitting in the sulphurous waters for at least half an hour before<br />
submitting to a masseuse, turning their skin to velvet. The Old<br />
Town is nearby, with western-style cafés, shops and galleries lining<br />
the narrow streets. A bit further is the very heart of the district,<br />
Sioni Cathedral. Before the large Holy Trinity (Sameba) Cathedral<br />
was built on its hill, the Sioni Cathedral, dating to the 5 th century,<br />
was the seat of the Patriarch and the principal house of worship in<br />
Tbilisi. On a Saturday afternoon, we witnessed many young people<br />
in attendance, girls with scarves gathering to hear the liturgy that<br />
loudspeakers spread far beyond the walls of the ancient edifice,<br />
their dark hair literally gleaming beneath the scarves. More and<br />
more young people join the faithful these days. A young mother<br />
nurses her baby by the wall. The scene evokes Sicily for me; the<br />
crowds at a wedding in a baroque town on that island. Georgians<br />
see themselves as having much in common with the Italians, in<br />
their cuisine and especially in their dress. A Georgian will buy a<br />
new dress even if the purchase takes the last of her money. The<br />
streets of Tbilisi bear witness to this!<br />
The old Jewish Quarter is nearby, too, and there you will find the<br />
red brick synagogue that dates to 1910. Narrow, cobbled, winding<br />
streets lead off in every direction and draw you in. Wandering<br />
about in this area will let you savour a true taste of Tbilisi, of an<br />
BALTIC OUTLOOK / OCTOBER 2010 / 35
YOUR NExT DESTINATION<br />
More and more young people join the faithful in today’s<br />
Tbilisi. Girls at the Sioni Cathedral.<br />
absolute authenticity that is hard to find in any other city. Some<br />
of the buildings have suffered from the teeth of time to the point<br />
where it seems they might crumble to dust before your eyes, but<br />
most of them still stand spitefully despite their age, having lost<br />
their paint long ago and taken on the patina of passing time in<br />
layers. Tbilisi was on the legendary Silk Road, and the meeting<br />
of East and West can be felt most profoundly in its architecture.<br />
Orientalism, Neo-Classicism, Art Nouveau and Persian influences<br />
“Let’s go to the prosecutor’s”<br />
is already a phrase denoting a<br />
journey to this eatery<br />
come together in an inexplicable whole that also bears a strong<br />
local accent. This is especially noticeable in the courtyards and<br />
wooden balconies with their carefully carved filigrees, each detail<br />
a key to some fairy tale. Grapevines cover at least a part of each<br />
courtyard like roofs, providing shade on sweltering summer days.<br />
Each small street has a shop in proportion to its smallness, selling<br />
groceries or second-hand goods. One might glimpse men playing<br />
backgammon or see a woman who has proudly dressed up merely<br />
to emerge on her balcony and read a book.<br />
Once upon a time all of the buildings built in Tbilisi were built with<br />
the intention of providing the best possible panorama at each<br />
location – one wants to see the surrounding mountains. Like in<br />
an intricate oriental carpet, the houses were woven into the valley<br />
without blocking one another’s views. Today, with the hysterical<br />
speed of mindless, uncontrolled construction, this unwritten law<br />
has been broken. Not only has many a historic building fallen<br />
before the wreckers’ ball – so has many an ancient tree.<br />
Khinkali at the prosecutor’s<br />
Today’s Tbilisi has another unforgivable drawback – it is a city that<br />
has lost its market. At the apogee of the hypermarket craze, it was<br />
36 / AIRBALTIC.COM<br />
Famous for its sulphur baths, Tbilisi offers a bathing ritual that<br />
is well nigh sacred and well worth trying.<br />
simply demolished. You will find only a smidgen of its formerly<br />
colourful glory by “the Dry Bridge.” In the nearby park, there’s a<br />
flea market. In another, artists hawk their works. You will find most<br />
everything at the flea market, from silver dishes to old chain mail<br />
and hunting trophies. It’s a place families go on days off.<br />
Georgians are demanding when shopping and exacting in<br />
their culinary needs. The lady of the house knows where the<br />
best lavash in her neighbourhood can be found, and where<br />
the freshest vegetables and herbs from the countryside can be<br />
had. In the same way, restaurants are selected for a particular<br />
food at which each well-known establishment excels. If you<br />
desire a truly spectacular shashlik, for example, you need to go<br />
to Mtskheta. And once you get to Mtskheta, you need to find<br />
where exactly to go – you don’t just go to any shashlik place.<br />
The earlier capital of Georgia and the country’s religious centre,<br />
it is 27 kilometres from Tbilisi. The picturesque surrounding<br />
area is dotted with dachas. The drivers on the roads have a<br />
tendency toward insanity, following laws known only to them.<br />
As the locals say – they are speeding toward their coffins.<br />
Tbilisi’s outskirts are marred in part by blue, yellow, and rosecoloured<br />
apartment blocks; people will tell you that these reflect<br />
Saakashvili’s taste, the hues chosen by the president himself. Just<br />
before Mtskheta the Jvari Monastery stands on a hill, the Aragvi<br />
and Kura rivers meeting at the foot of it. The view is stunning,<br />
the pure blue Aragvi flowing into the green and rather filthy<br />
Kura, a confluence of two worlds. The monastery is listed by<br />
UNESCO. Built in the 6 th century, this is where the Georgians<br />
adopted Christianity.<br />
The 11 th -century Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in Mtskheta was long<br />
the largest structure devoted to religion and is only surpassed by<br />
the recent Sameba Church in Tbilisi. Long the principal cathedral<br />
of the country, this is where the rulers of Georgia were crowned<br />
and buried. David the Builder, among the most renowned rulers,<br />
is depicted on one of the many frescoes. In the 19 th century,<br />
when the Georgian kingdom became part of the Russian empire,<br />
most of the unique Georgian frescoes were whitewashed; only<br />
a fraction could ever be restored. The most amazing sacred<br />
treasures can be found in the Museum of Georgian Art in Tbilisi,<br />
its most precious collection open only by appointment. Unique
miniatures of gold and enamel filigree were done in a technique<br />
that some are trying to revive today – contemporary examples can<br />
be found in the galleries in the Chardin quarter – but the secrets of<br />
the most intricate work are lost in the past.<br />
As a significant tourist site, the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral is<br />
surrounded by uncontrolled construction, touts, and beggars, the<br />
latter not rare in the streets of Tbilisi.<br />
Next to the prosecutor’s headquarters is one of the premier places<br />
in the capital for khinkali. “Let’s go to the prosecutor’s” is already a<br />
YOUR NExT DESTINATION<br />
The 11th-century Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in Mtskheta was long<br />
the largest structure devoted to religion and is only surpassed<br />
by the recent Sameba Church in Tbilisi.<br />
phrase denoting a journey to this eatery. The table is covered<br />
with mountains of food as if by magic. Khinkali are eaten with<br />
the fingers – you hold the back of the flower of flour and take a<br />
tiny bite to release the precious bouillon. Then you devour the<br />
rest. The overflowing table also holds that Georgian necessity,<br />
wine. And in Georgia, where there is wine, there are toasts –<br />
short or long, they are like a form of poetry. Listening to the<br />
toasts and sipping wine, time passes swiftly. As all time does in<br />
Georgia! BO
YOUR NExT DESTINATION<br />
If You Have only one<br />
Day in Tbilisi<br />
Start with the city’s loveliest<br />
part – the Old Town. Walk<br />
along Chardin Street from one<br />
end to the other – renovated<br />
and dolled up, one could call<br />
this the western Europe of<br />
Tbilisi. That might be why the<br />
Georgians are so proud of it and<br />
recommend it as the starting<br />
point for exploration of the<br />
city. Countless cafés and bars<br />
line Chardin Street. You could<br />
have a morning coffee at the<br />
Literature Café – this Europeanstyle<br />
place has a long wall of<br />
books and is also a shop. The<br />
If You Have Two Days in Tbilisi<br />
Famous for its sulphur baths,<br />
Tbilisi offers a bathing ritual<br />
that is well nigh sacred and<br />
well worth trying. The locals<br />
perform these rites at least<br />
once a week, though they<br />
do this in private more often<br />
than they do at the great<br />
public baths decorated with<br />
oriental designs and Pushkin’s<br />
words – he wrote that he had<br />
never seen anything as ornate<br />
as the baths of Tbilisi. Bear in<br />
38 / AIRBALTIC.COM<br />
coffee is fantastic, as are the<br />
pastries. There is more than one<br />
café like this in Tbilisi, and locals<br />
can tell you that they belong to<br />
the widow of the former Prime<br />
Minister Zurab Zhvania. The<br />
street and the streets leading<br />
off it are also home to a string of<br />
art galleries. Baia Gallery is one<br />
you must not miss, at 10 Chardin<br />
Street – www.baiagallery.de. It<br />
holds an outstanding collection<br />
of Georgian art from the 20 th<br />
and 21 st centuries and was the<br />
first private gallery in Georgia.<br />
There is a gallery nearby<br />
mind that you must make an<br />
appointment at least a day<br />
before you visit. It’s best to plan<br />
this for the morning, and be an<br />
early bird. Next to the baths is a<br />
restaurant where George Bush,<br />
among others, has dined – the<br />
kitchen is quite good, but as<br />
in any Georgian restaurant the<br />
focus is on certain things. Don’t<br />
get shashlik here – the fresh<br />
sausages, however, are superb.<br />
The Sameba Cathedral, a<br />
devoted to textiles, showcasing<br />
the Georgian tapestry. A shop<br />
on the ground floor offers the<br />
work of artists in cloth. Anyone<br />
into design will find the woollen<br />
goods here enticing.<br />
Keep going and you will<br />
discover the authentic Tbilisi.<br />
Narrow, dusty streets retain<br />
ancient architecture and a<br />
rhythm of life quite different<br />
from that presented to the<br />
tourist on Chardin Street.<br />
A delicious lunch can be gotten<br />
at Old House or Dzveli Sakhli.<br />
The interior is in the style of<br />
the Georgian countryside and<br />
provides a labyrinthine series of<br />
niches to hide in. Though there<br />
are always tourists here, locals<br />
come for the fabulous food.<br />
To obtain an overview of<br />
Georgian history, visit the<br />
Museum of Art named after<br />
Shalva Amiranishvali. With<br />
140,000 works, this is the<br />
most remarkable collection<br />
of Georgian art on earth and<br />
includes works from Russia,<br />
western Europe and the East.<br />
To see the most remarkable<br />
exhibits, in a special collection,<br />
you need to make an<br />
appointment beforehand.<br />
The Narikala fortress, which has<br />
survived attacks by Persians,<br />
Arabs, Turks and Khazars, the<br />
Sameba and Metekhi churches,<br />
symbol of today’s Tbilisi, is<br />
worth especial concentration.<br />
The location, Mount Elijah,<br />
is visible from almost any<br />
point in the city. Lit at night,<br />
the Cathedral’s appearance<br />
is almost magical. Started in<br />
the 1980s, construction was<br />
completed in 2004. The largest<br />
religious edifice in the southern<br />
Caucasus, its 440 ornaments<br />
span various styles.<br />
For a different Tbilisi, have dinner<br />
the City Park, and Rustaveli<br />
Avenue are all required sites for<br />
any tourist no matter how short<br />
your visit may be.<br />
A well spent day in Georgia will<br />
include wine! Though there<br />
are numerous shops in the Old<br />
Town, the best place to find<br />
outstanding wines to take home<br />
is Wine World. The proprietors<br />
are vintners themselves; their<br />
sparkling wine is made by<br />
méthode champenoise and is well<br />
worth a try.<br />
At Kalakuri you can sample<br />
the nightlife of today’s Tbilisi.<br />
From the outside it’s not exactly<br />
inviting, to put it mildly, but the<br />
third storey with its Moroccan<br />
interior a veritable paradise for<br />
hedonists. The clientele is the<br />
flower of Georgia’s gilded youth,<br />
iPods and other accessories<br />
always at hand. We wouldn’t<br />
suggest eating here (as in any<br />
such place, the kitchen is not<br />
exactly exquisite), but if you<br />
would like to smoke a hookah<br />
and sip some wine whilst<br />
people-watching, it’s idyllic.<br />
Baia Gallery, 10 Chardin Street;<br />
www.baiagallery.de<br />
Old House, 3 Marjvena Sanapiro;<br />
www.gmcgroup.de<br />
Museum of Art named after Shalva<br />
Amiranishvali, Tavisuplebis Moedani or<br />
Freedom Square<br />
Wine World, 2 Revaz Lagidze Street;<br />
www.wineworld.ge)<br />
Kalakuri, 13, Shavteli Street<br />
Restaurant Tsiskvili<br />
at Tsiskvili in Beliashvili Street.<br />
The restaurant is outside the<br />
centre and sooner reminds of an<br />
open-air museum than an eatery.
The location is striking, with an<br />
ancient, authentic watermill built<br />
into a cliff. Tsiskvili’s artefacts<br />
are something of an illustrated<br />
ABC of Georgian history. All<br />
If You Have Three<br />
Days in Tbilisi<br />
Only a few minutes’ drive from<br />
the capital Turtle Lake shimmers,<br />
the Open <strong>Air</strong> Museum beside it.<br />
An excellent restaurant awaits<br />
you with a view that simply<br />
cannot be surpassed – Tbilisi<br />
lies at your feet! Get the local<br />
house wine as it gets dark, on<br />
the terrace, watching the lights<br />
come on below. Wine is the<br />
essence of Georgia. Even the<br />
most hideous Soviet apartment<br />
block is brimming with wine.<br />
Every decent Georgian knows<br />
someone in the countryside<br />
who makes it. Four tonnes per<br />
family per year is a minimum.<br />
One of the loveliest brief<br />
trips you can make into the<br />
countryside is to the legendary<br />
Kakheti province, taking in the<br />
fly to Tbilisi with<br />
of this sans kitsch. The food is<br />
wonderful, and so is the service!<br />
Sulphur Bath, 1 Grishashvili Street<br />
The Sameba Cathedral, Mount Elijah<br />
Tsiskvili, Beliashvili Street<br />
endless vines of Alezani in their<br />
breathtaking valley. About 140<br />
kilometres from Tbilisi there is<br />
an unbelievably beautiful town<br />
called Signakhi. It is, of course, a<br />
showcase now – Saakashvili has<br />
caused it to be totally restored,<br />
rather diminishing the less tame<br />
charm that is what makes this<br />
country so special. But even in<br />
Signakhi, a peek into a courtyard<br />
will allow you to see the<br />
characteristic face of this fabled<br />
land, no cosmetics necessary.<br />
The medieval walls still stand,<br />
and narrow streets wind around<br />
ancient churches. Get a bottle<br />
of wine and gaze down into the<br />
valley. You may find that this<br />
is one of those instants where<br />
nothing else is needed.<br />
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OUTLOOK / INTERVIEW<br />
TExT: IEVA NORA fIRERE<br />
PHOTOS: LUKAs NAzDRACzEW, RED BULL PhOTOfILEs The calendar of his Blackberry is stuffed.<br />
Two years after leaving professional sport, Formula<br />
One legend David Coulthard has plans for every single<br />
day until December and then again starting from<br />
Coulthard’s<br />
Hard Cult<br />
40 / AIRBALTIC.COM<br />
January. <strong>Baltic</strong> Outlook was lucky to spend two days<br />
with this outstanding car racing veteran and his team,<br />
becoming genuinely impressed by the modesty and<br />
consideration that Coulthard has maintained despite all<br />
of the fame and fortune that he has acquired, and with<br />
a gruelling schedule that ordinary souls would find<br />
very hard to keep up with.<br />
David Coulthard’s life pace still seems to be speeding at<br />
over 300 km per hour, despite the fact that the former<br />
Red Bull Racing team driver no longer sits behind
the wheel of the world’s fastest cars. He doesn’t play<br />
Thursday tennis with his neighbours, either. Flying from<br />
destination to destination two or three times a week,<br />
he hasn’t even managed to learn the name of his next<br />
door neighbour. The car-racing business has remained<br />
in his schedule, but Coulthard’s life has changed quite<br />
a bit since he ended his 15-year Formula One racing<br />
career in 2008.<br />
Now a Red Bull ambassador and touring the world with<br />
his showcar (last year’s Formula One car model), he can<br />
party a bit longer than before. And he does so. But at<br />
the same time, he sits in an interview twisting a silver<br />
ring (that appeared on his wedding finger when his<br />
son Dayton was born two years ago) and dreams about<br />
December – the four weeks that he has booked entirely<br />
for his family.<br />
“I’ll see what the family wants. I might be with my son<br />
on the beach. I’ve seen all the pyramids and been to<br />
various wonders of the world, but it left a check-list<br />
feeling. So I’ll keep it easy this time.”<br />
I’d like to start with a quick-response question.<br />
F1 racers or aircraft pilots – who has more sex<br />
appeal?<br />
Smiles. I’m not so sure about aircraft, but of all the<br />
sports that you can do, F1 is definitely one of the most<br />
attractive ones. It’s fast and dangerous, and the drivers<br />
are credited for being more intelligent than other<br />
sportsmen. It’s not for me to judge, but footballers,<br />
for instance, are not always given the best credit for<br />
I’ve seen what it is to sleep on your<br />
friends’ sofa and to have no money,<br />
rather than at the age of 19 to drive<br />
a racing car and get paid enormous<br />
sums of money.<br />
being the most intelligent people, which is of course<br />
ridiculous – I’m sure that there are a lot of academically<br />
bright and socially aware footballers. But F1 drivers,<br />
with all of the technology and money involved, have a<br />
lot of sex appeal.<br />
What are your assumptions, or perhaps it is known<br />
as a fact – are there more women or men in your<br />
fan base?<br />
Ay, that’s a good question! Probably more men,<br />
because more men follow motor racing, but I don’t<br />
know it for a fact. I know that F1 is appealing to both<br />
genders, kids as much as seniors.<br />
OUTLOOK / INTERVIEW<br />
Isn’t F1 currently going the same road as tennis,<br />
where looks play an essential part of one’s<br />
success?<br />
We are all influenced by what we see, and when<br />
sponsors want to project an image, then they can<br />
stress various things. Like national pride. If you are<br />
Polish, then you have only one driver, Robert Kubica.<br />
If the company is British, then you can choose<br />
between either Lewis Hamilton or Jenson Button.<br />
Lewis is a black man, Jenson is a white man, Mark<br />
Webber is an Australian white man. You’ve got to find<br />
something that fits your marketing campaign. Look<br />
at David Beckham. Why is he one of the most famous<br />
footballers? Not because he is one of the best, but<br />
because he has a good look, he’s with a pop star, he’s in<br />
fashion. It became much more about his lifestyle than<br />
about his sporting.<br />
Speaking of Beckham, he’s had a large influence<br />
on British society. I’ve read about a poll done<br />
in Great Britain, where young males reveal that<br />
they’ve started to prefer spas instead of a night at<br />
the pub. The spa industry thanks Beckham for that.<br />
Laughs. I was never a big pub person anyway, so this<br />
hasn’t influenced me. I like spas, they are part of a<br />
career in sports.<br />
George Orwell said that sport is like war without<br />
bullets. What is sport to you?<br />
I don’t see sport as war. War means being in<br />
disagreement, but sport is about the opposite. It means<br />
you’re in harmony with your decision to be in that<br />
environment, but you want to be the winner of that<br />
competition. I think sport is about ethics, fair play and<br />
gentlemanly conduct.<br />
Ethics and gentlemen in sports – that sounds<br />
more like Jim Clarke, Jackie Stewart and the<br />
Formula One of the 1960s and 1970s. Somehow,<br />
it seems we should talk about an entirely different<br />
Formula One era today.<br />
You are right. All sport has changed because of the<br />
commercial aspect – sport as business and business<br />
as sport. And in business you need to be successful,<br />
otherwise you’re out of it. That’s where things have<br />
changed. In the days of Jim Clarke and Jackie Stewart,<br />
the development of that business was still in its infancy.<br />
Look at football today or the troubles in cricket – with<br />
match fixing and things like that! I still believe that<br />
to be a sportsman, you have to follow the rules and<br />
regulations.<br />
And what if the pressure at one point is too high?<br />
Then you don’t call yourself a sportsman. Breaking<br />
rules is cheating and nobody likes a cheat. You and I<br />
can cheat whenever we want to, but we lose moral<br />
BALTIC OUTLOOK / OCTOBER 2010 / 41
OUTLOOK / INTERVIEW<br />
42 / AIRBALTIC.COM<br />
satisfaction. Sport is much more about what you think<br />
of yourself than about what other people think of you.<br />
Talking about the history of Formula One, which<br />
decade seems the most appealing to you?<br />
The 1980s and early 1990s, because that was the period<br />
when I was a kid watching Formula One. The 1970s<br />
had a different charm. The level of media pressure<br />
was much lower and you actually had certain privacy<br />
being an F1 driver then. Now everything that you do is<br />
being watched, everything that you say is going to be<br />
on the internet. The words get twisted and when I was<br />
younger, I had pretty bad stories going around about<br />
me – that I was a playboy and all sorts of things. I’ve<br />
had more than one girlfriend, but maybe you’ve had<br />
more than one boyfriend, too, which doesn’t make you<br />
a playgirl. It just means that you’re living a normal life.<br />
Back in the 1960s and 1970s, Formula One was<br />
pretty dangerous – crashes followed one after<br />
another. Knowing all of that, can you imagine<br />
having a career back then?<br />
Yes, I can imagine, but it’s just a thought, not a reality.<br />
I’m not very good at doing ifs and maybes.<br />
In your interviews you are usually asked to do so.<br />
Sure. I’m working for the BBC today, and sometimes in<br />
their polls they ask me who is going to win. I have a<br />
feeling, but of course I don’t know. Why watch sports<br />
if you know the outcome? People seem to be so<br />
impatient. Enjoy! It’s like with a good movie – even if you<br />
know that James Bond is not going to die, you still want<br />
to see the entire film, see how he is saved this time.<br />
Many people will remember you as the guy who<br />
took Ayrton Senna’s place in 1994 [the Brazilian<br />
three-time Formula One champion who died in a<br />
crash in San Marino]. Did you ever feel that those<br />
shoes were too big to fill?<br />
Definitely. Senna was the best driver in Formula One<br />
at that time, and I couldn’t hope to fill his shoes. What I<br />
david marshall coulthard<br />
Born in 1971 in Dumfries, Scotland,<br />
raised in nearby Twynholm;<br />
won 13 Grand Prix races in his<br />
15-season Formula One career;<br />
A driver in the Williams (1994–1995),<br />
McLaren (1996–2004) and Red Bull<br />
Racing teams (2005–2008);<br />
last race (Brazilian Grand Prix) in<br />
2008;<br />
Left professional sport at the end of<br />
2008, following the birth of his son<br />
Dayton;<br />
Lives in Monaco, also owns homes<br />
in the UK (London), Belgium and<br />
Switzerland; Owns several luxury<br />
hotels in Great Britain;<br />
works now as a BBC F1 TV pundit.<br />
could do was to take the opportunity, and in honour of<br />
him, do the best that I possibly could.<br />
But wasn’t it a feeling of discomfort at that time?<br />
Senna had supported you in your earlier career.<br />
I was young then, had lots of ambitions and didn’t<br />
think of it that way. Now I’m 39 and I’ve had my<br />
journey. Being a father, I could now swap my life for my<br />
son’s future just like that [snaps his finger]! Today, he is<br />
the future for me.<br />
Speaking of your nearly two-year-old future, I<br />
think he might be too young to be a fan of the cult<br />
cartoon Lightning McQueen, which is a story about<br />
racing cars.<br />
Smiles. We haven’t watched it yet.<br />
There are three main heroes in the cartoon – the<br />
good-hearted veteran car, the bad guy who is too<br />
eager to win, and the young car named McQueen,<br />
who manages to balance his ambitions with kindheartedness.<br />
A very young Formula One fan said I<br />
should ask you which one you identify with.<br />
Laughs. Just like McQueen, I’ve certainly had big<br />
ambitions, but my sporting career has finished. That<br />
journey must always come to an end at some point.
OUTLOOK / INTERVIEW<br />
44 / AIRBALTIC.COM<br />
And now I’ve moved on to the next phase of my life.<br />
How comfortable are you with the end of your<br />
active sports journey?<br />
People tend to think that in sports you hold on to your<br />
career and never want to give it up. I’ve had my chance,<br />
but now it’s time to step aside. When I watch drivers<br />
on TV, I almost forget that I once had a 15-year-long<br />
Formula One career. I’m now watching as a fan. No<br />
regrets as an ex-driver.<br />
I don’t think that I was the most<br />
talented driver, but I was<br />
up-looking<br />
Was it luck or talent that played the most<br />
important role in your 15-year-long career?<br />
I don’t think that I was the most talented driver, but<br />
I was up-looking and the opportunity sometimes<br />
comes to people who look upwards, though not<br />
always.<br />
You often talk about the new generation in<br />
motor racing. What’s the recipe for success? Are<br />
we talking about talent or money, or the right<br />
moment when somebody finds you in go-carts?<br />
All of those. You need talent, the right moment and<br />
money to get there. And then, once you get there,<br />
you’ve got to be in the right car. Again, coming back<br />
to Robert [Kubica], to me he is in the same level as<br />
Hamilton, Button or Vettel. But it’s difficult for him<br />
with the race issue, because his car is not so good. It’s<br />
not only about being the best driver. You have to get<br />
yourself in the best car.<br />
The Red Bull Racing car is currently the fastest. Is<br />
that enough?<br />
Being fast is one part of it. The rest is reliability,<br />
consistency, good decisions from the driver and<br />
good decisions from the mechanics. You need<br />
consistency in the championship.<br />
Talking about being the fastest, has sports<br />
taught you to deal differently with time? Is your<br />
life outside Formula One also spent at 300 km<br />
per hour?<br />
Well, I do so many things that I forget to live a<br />
normal life. Where do you go for a holiday? What<br />
do you do on a holiday? I don’t know. My life is a<br />
pleasure, so why take a holiday from pleasure? The<br />
danger is that I don’t spend Tuesday nights watching<br />
Friends on TV. And on Thursdays, I don’t play tennis<br />
with my next door neighbour. In fact, I don’t even<br />
know who my next door neighbour is! I don’t have<br />
the same kind of life that I had while I was growing<br />
up. That was more dictated by the Monday-to-Friday<br />
work routine.<br />
Now, two years after leaving professional sports,<br />
how far ahead you know your schedule?<br />
I fly two or three times a week, like an airline steward<br />
or a pilot. Every time I do a job, it’s in a different<br />
country. I have everything planned until the last<br />
weekend of November [waves his Blackberry]. I’m<br />
trying to leave December clear, because I’ve been<br />
doing things one after another since January and<br />
would love to spend some time with my family.<br />
I thought people with a schedule and a career<br />
like yours would be more into this star thing,<br />
but you seem so accessible.<br />
Smiles. It’s funny for me to see some of the younger<br />
drivers. Of course, partly you have to change,<br />
because you are so in demand and you don’t<br />
have the time, that’s for sure. But some of them<br />
become so distant. Too much fame too early can<br />
be dangerous. I think it was good for me starting<br />
Formula One when I was 24. I’d had six years to<br />
develop as an adult. I’ve seen what it is to sleep on<br />
your friends’ sofa and to have no money, rather than<br />
at the age of 19 to drive a racing car and get paid<br />
enormous sums of money.<br />
Is there something that you have given up for<br />
sitting here today so satisfied, two years after a<br />
very successful career?<br />
Nothing really. It’s just a different choice of lifestyle.<br />
I thought you would mention health problems.<br />
Well, of course I have aches and pains, but on the<br />
other hand, I am almost 40.<br />
Where does it hurt the most?<br />
Joints and neck, because of all the years with<br />
g–forces [gravitational forces]. BO
OUTLOOK / PROmO<br />
Welcome to<br />
Skonto Plan<br />
Skonto Plan is<br />
one of the most<br />
successful Latvian<br />
manufacturers<br />
in the European<br />
construction<br />
market, due to<br />
its competitive<br />
prices, high quality<br />
products, punctual<br />
deliveries and<br />
socially responsible<br />
practices.<br />
46 / AIRBALTIC.COM<br />
As one of the largest Latvian enterprises<br />
in its field, Skonto Plan specializes in the<br />
manufacture, assembly and installation of<br />
glazed aluminium constructions, PVC doors and<br />
windows, glass units and metal fittings.<br />
The company has filled orders for projects in<br />
Latvia and abroad since 1992, making use of<br />
technologies offered by Schuco, a German<br />
company whose name is well-known to building<br />
industry specialists, standing for top quality and<br />
durability.<br />
To ensure its continued competitiveness on the<br />
European market, Skonto Plan opened a 5-million<br />
euro aluminium product plant with the latest<br />
technology and equipment in 2009. Another<br />
3-million euro facility for the manufacture of<br />
processed stainless metals will be unveiled next<br />
year.<br />
“The plant will process stainless steel sheets<br />
into finished products, namely, furniture for<br />
Façade of the Latvian National Library<br />
medical institutions. All of the production will be<br />
exported,” says Skonto Plan board member Guntis<br />
Rāvis. The new facility will also allow Skonto Plan<br />
to begin the production of metal façades.<br />
A significant proportion of Skonto Plan’s other<br />
products, including windows, doors, curtain<br />
walls and façades, are also exported.<br />
“Everything is produced in Latvia at our plant in<br />
Tukums, which currently employs 200 people.<br />
For many years, Skonto Plan has been one of the<br />
biggest employers and taxpayers in the Zemgale<br />
region of Latvia. We have also opened subsidiaries<br />
in the UK and Ireland,” says Rāvis.<br />
The finished glazed aluminium products travel<br />
from Tukums to Skonto Plan’s main export<br />
markets: the UK, Ireland and Norway. Skonto<br />
Plan’s target clients are large building firms, and<br />
the company is involved in a number of major<br />
construction projects in foreign countries.<br />
However, Skonto Plan doesn’t just export to earn<br />
profits – it also wants to gain experience and to
Eagle House project in London<br />
Factory in Tukums<br />
prove that it can perform specific jobs at a very high<br />
quality level. This was why Skonto Plan participated<br />
in the construction of a challenging private house<br />
in the UK. The project was interesting from both an<br />
architectural standpoint and on the basis of the site<br />
chosen by the owners.<br />
According to Rāvis, Skonto Plan has now accumulated<br />
enough experience to meet the requirements of<br />
practically any foreign market. Sturdy materials<br />
that can take big loads are in demand in the UK,<br />
while Norwegians are more interested in saving<br />
money. Scandinavian green thinking means that PVC<br />
constructions and plastic products on all building<br />
OUTLOOK / PROmO<br />
projects must be certified for compliance with<br />
environmental standards.<br />
Skonto Plan gets these materials from the PVC maker<br />
KBE, which provides a certificate and guarantees that<br />
the windows can be used for 20 to 30 years and then be<br />
recycled. Skonto Plan’s products have a guarantee of up<br />
to ten years, depending on their intended purpose.<br />
Skonto Plan has a number of<br />
new projects in central Riga,<br />
In 2012, eAgle<br />
House wIll Be<br />
A cAndIdAte<br />
foR london’s<br />
ARcHItectuRe<br />
AwARds<br />
including the Radisson Blu<br />
Hotel Latvija (formerly the Reval<br />
Hotel Latvija) and the Radisson<br />
Blu Elizabete Hotel, the Galerija<br />
Centrs shopping mall in Old Riga,<br />
the central office of the Latvian<br />
Interior Ministry, the Olympic<br />
Sports Centre, and the 16<br />
000-square-metre façade of the<br />
Latvian National Library.<br />
Skonto Plan is especially proud of its work on the<br />
Anker Hotel Oslo in Norway, for which it received high<br />
praise from both the client and the building’s owner,<br />
Anker Hotel Properties. Another notable Skonto Plan<br />
commission outside of Latvia is a conference centre in<br />
Dublin.<br />
As Rāvis explains, “we bring potential clients to<br />
this conference centre to show them what our<br />
constructions, façades and doors look like. This is a<br />
very good way of demonstrating why they should<br />
choose Latvian-made products. Our success story<br />
also proves that precise logistics can be ensured<br />
even from several thousand kilometres away. We<br />
are competitive in the European market on price, as<br />
well as due to the fact that we represent quality and<br />
responsibility and meet all deadlines.”<br />
To ensure continued high quality, Skonto Plan assigns<br />
its work managers to a job before the contract has<br />
been signed, so that they can be present during<br />
negotiations. In a similar vein, glazed aluminium<br />
constructions are assembled by people who also took<br />
part in manufacturing them.<br />
Another project, the 24-storey Eagle House residential<br />
building on City Road in central London, has reached<br />
the halfway stage. Schuco glazed aluminium façades<br />
with stone finishing are being used, and windows<br />
and doors are being installed. In 2012, Eagle House<br />
will be a candidate for London’s architecture awards<br />
as one of the city’s top new skyscrapers. Rāvis says<br />
that “this is a difficult but interesting project. Around<br />
100 specialists from Latvia are currently working<br />
there.”<br />
Skonto Plan is open to cooperation, and in addition<br />
to the countries already mentioned, it has also<br />
demonstrated its abilities in Belgium, Russia,<br />
Switzerland and Italy.<br />
“We are always delighted to show clients our factory<br />
and building sites, and to introduce them to the work<br />
of our designers and engineers,” says Rāvis.<br />
BALTIC OUTLOOK / OCTOBER 2010 / 47
48 / AIRBALTIC.COM<br />
TExT: RIhARDs KALNINs | PHOTOS: gINTs mALDERIs, COURTEsY Of DEsIgN INfORmATION CENTER<br />
The Designed<br />
Environment<br />
Throughout October, the<br />
festival Design.Future 2010 will<br />
reveal the stunning diversity<br />
of contemporary design, with<br />
exhibitions, seminars, and<br />
workshops showcasing this<br />
integral part of our modern<br />
environment. Events will be held<br />
in Riga, Liepaja and Daugavpils.<br />
The field of contemporary design is notoriously<br />
flamboyant. When most of us think about design, we<br />
imagine fancy chairs that nobody can sit on, elaborate<br />
sculptures made of obscure materials, and abstract<br />
drawings with loud colors and wild lines. But in fact,<br />
design is all around us: designers have created the<br />
magazine you are holding, the chair you are sitting<br />
in, and the interior of the aircraft around you. Design<br />
extends to every aspect of our lives—from tickets,<br />
to posters, to furniture, to silverware. The landscape<br />
you see from your window may be an untamed<br />
environment, crafted over the centuries by natural<br />
processes, but the civilization surrounding us was<br />
completely designed by human minds and hands.<br />
This month, the sixth annual Design.Future 2010<br />
festival will celebrate the designed environment with<br />
scores of exhibits, seminars, workshops, and conference<br />
devoted to contemporary design. Organized by the<br />
Design Information Center, the events will focus on our<br />
contemporary relationship to design, which is often<br />
mediated by fields like art and architecture. Events<br />
will be held throughout the Latvian capital at venues<br />
including Berga Bazaar, the Latvian National Library, the<br />
Riija and Casa Nostra design stores in central Riga, the<br />
Kalnciema iela quarter in the Pārdaugava district, the<br />
Stockholm School of Economics, and the Museum of<br />
Decorative Arts and Design.<br />
The Design.Future 2010 festival will be officially<br />
unveiled in Riga on October 8 with a conference<br />
titled “Design for Humanity,” at the Stockholm School<br />
of Economics, which will feature speakers from
throughout Europe. The President and CEO of air<strong>Baltic</strong>,<br />
Bertolt Flick, will also be speaking at the conference,<br />
addressing the assembled guests with a talk entitled<br />
“The Success Story of air<strong>Baltic</strong>: User Friendly Design<br />
Service,” where he will discuss how the airline has used<br />
high-quality design to improve its services. Flick will<br />
then participate in a panel discussion, entitled “Can<br />
Design Make Changes,” along with Rama Gheerawo,<br />
deputy director of the Helen Hamlyn Centre at the<br />
Royal College of Art in London, and Michael Wolff,<br />
cofounder of the legendary Wolff Olins design group,<br />
who was recently appointed the UK government’s<br />
official Inclusive Design Champion.<br />
The conference will be followed by exhibitions<br />
throughout central Riga. Each of the exhibitions will<br />
display objects and materials that most of us don’t<br />
usually think of as “designed,” though they are purely<br />
the products of a sketchpad and pencil (or increasingly,<br />
a computer screen and mouse). These include a series<br />
of exhibits devoted to graphic design and poster art<br />
created for concerts, exhibitions and other cultural<br />
events. A collection of Latvian graphic design materials<br />
entitled Art + Communication. Archive will be on display<br />
in the windows of the Latvian National Library building<br />
on Barona iela, alongside a special traveling exhibit<br />
of Spanish posters. Nearby Berga Bazaar will host an<br />
exhibit of Estonian posters, traditionally that country’s<br />
strongest graphic design field, while the design store<br />
Casa Nostra on the corner of Brīvības and Dzirnavu iela<br />
will offer a collection of Lithuanian calligraphy.<br />
Of course, the purpose of design is to be used, not<br />
just looked at. For this reason, Design.Future 2010 will<br />
also include events where visitors can actually pick<br />
up, inspect, purchase, and take home various design<br />
objects and materials. According to one of the festival’s<br />
organizers, Inese Pētersone, “design is an instrument<br />
to raise our quality of life.” Indeed, these design<br />
objects embody our cultural values and then<br />
disseminate them to others. According to<br />
Pētersone, the aesthetic quality of our designed<br />
objects display the cultural level of our nation,<br />
revealing the national welfare of the country.<br />
Good design not only raises the quality of<br />
our individual lives (think about objects like<br />
electrical appliances and automobiles) but also<br />
improves the overall wellbeing of the nation<br />
(road signs, buildings etc.)<br />
To this end, several shops in Berga Bazaar,<br />
including the Nakts Mēbeles furniture store,<br />
will hold open houses throughout October.<br />
At these events, visitors can view product<br />
presentations, consult with professional<br />
designers, and have a glass of wine with local design<br />
experts. Connoisseurs of good design will also be<br />
happy to hear that a brand new design shop, Riija, will<br />
be opening at Tērbatas iela 6/8 on October 8. The store<br />
will sell a full range of locally made design products,<br />
including dishes, furniture, chairs, shelves, glassware,<br />
leather goods and porcelain. One of the creators of<br />
the shop is renowned Latvian fashion designer Natālija<br />
Jansone, so the store will also sell a myriad of fashion<br />
goods and style accessories.<br />
Unique design objects will be available for<br />
sale at the gift shop of the Latvian National<br />
Museum of Art on Valdemāra iela. The<br />
shop will sell souvenirs inspired by some<br />
of the famous works of art on view upstairs<br />
in the museum. These include porcelain<br />
dishes adorned with ink sketches by Latvian<br />
graphic artist Sigismunds Vidbergs; scalemodel<br />
versions of Teodors Zaļkalns’s famous<br />
sculpture Pig, perfect for putting on your<br />
desk; a silk handkerchief decorated with<br />
designs by Latvian-born Constructivist artist<br />
Gustavs Klucis; a mouse pad and coaster featuring<br />
colorful drawings of peasant women by Russian artist<br />
Filipp Malyavin; and a puzzle with an Impressionistic<br />
painting by Latvian Old Master painter Vilhelms Purvītis.<br />
desIgn<br />
Is All<br />
ARound us:<br />
desIgneRs<br />
HAve<br />
cReAted tHe<br />
InteRIoR<br />
of tHe<br />
AIRcRAft<br />
BALTIC OUTLOOK / OCTOBER 2010 / 49
Some of the most interesting activities during Design.<br />
Future 2010 will occur later in the month in the Latvian city<br />
of Daugavpils. The weekend of October 29-30 will feature<br />
several exhibitions, workshops, and seminars in this historic<br />
city near the border with Russia and Belarus. Here Latvian<br />
designers Jānis and Indra Merci—founders of the design<br />
company Mercidesign—will present their disposable<br />
cardboard and papier-mâché furniture, or “eco-furniture,”<br />
a trend in environmentally safe and user-friendly home<br />
design that is quickly becoming popular all over the world.<br />
They will be joined by their colleague Jānis Rauza, who has<br />
developed a line of simple, sturdy, and stylish minimalist<br />
furniture called Mint, which can be mixed and matched to<br />
suit any interior.<br />
The final event in the festival’s program is an exhibit<br />
devoted to the life and work of Ādolfs Irbītis at the Museum<br />
of Decorative Arts and Design. Though Irbītis is not a<br />
household name, his works could be found in households<br />
all over the Soviet Union. Irbītis was a product designer<br />
for the VEF and Radiotehnika factories in Riga, where he<br />
designed radios, stereo equipment, and other electronic<br />
devices from the 1930s through the 1960s. Among his most<br />
famous works are the design of the VEF Spīdola radio, the<br />
VEF-12 radio and the VEF electric organ. The exhibit has<br />
been organized in honor of Irbītis’s hundredth anniversary<br />
and strives to reveal the mind behind these objects that are<br />
an enduring part of our collective memory.<br />
The principal aim of Design. Future 2010 is to introduce<br />
audiences to the designers who created the objects around<br />
us. As festival organizers Inese Pētersone and Daina Vītoliņa<br />
explain, design is not just a theoretical discipline, it is also a<br />
practical field demanding great skill and knowledge on the<br />
part of the designer, who must transform raw materials into<br />
attractive, convenient and useful new objects. BO<br />
www.dic.lv
These are the constants that form the<br />
cornerstone of a good home, no matter<br />
where you are from.<br />
However, if we are allowed to dream a little<br />
more, then the picture of domestic bliss<br />
rounds out to include a one- or two-car<br />
automatic garage, large picture windows, an<br />
outdoor patio and perhaps even a balcony<br />
that extends from your bedroom. All of these<br />
features and more are available at a brand<br />
new development of row houses called Alejas,<br />
in the tree-filled Mārupe district of Riga.<br />
The five clusters of row houses of this upscale<br />
development were built using the highest<br />
quality building materials, with every detail<br />
carefully chosen by the architects to ensure<br />
maximum durability. Likewise, the interiors<br />
are filled with new appliances and quality<br />
craftsmanship to guarantee perfect comfort<br />
for the lucky new occupants.<br />
Constructed as a gated community, complete<br />
with paved and lighted roadways, Alejas offers<br />
its residents a well-organized infrastructure<br />
and an ideal arrangement of outdoor space.<br />
The views in all directions take in the verdant<br />
beauty of the Mārupe district, one of the most<br />
prestigious suburbs of Riga, located only a<br />
15-minute drive from the Old Town.<br />
The biggest advantage of Alejas lies in<br />
the stylish homes themselves, each of<br />
which has a different layout and interior<br />
dimensions. All of the units have two<br />
stories and the second floor can be reached<br />
with a stylish staircase that ascends to a<br />
mezzanine overlooking the living room.<br />
OUTLOOK / PROmO<br />
Alejas:<br />
A Place to Call<br />
Your Own<br />
All of us dream of the perfect<br />
home – a place to call one’s<br />
own. Although our tastes<br />
and preferences may differ,<br />
the essentials of the perfect<br />
home remain the same –<br />
fresh air, green grass and<br />
plenty of space.<br />
Pinewood doors, cabinets, wardrobes and<br />
fixtures showcase the latest in minimalist,<br />
Scandinavian-style design, with its<br />
characteristic sleek lines, soft lighting,<br />
burnished natural wood and matted<br />
aluminum handles and latches.<br />
These are still rare amenities in Latvian<br />
homes, but are quickly gaining popularity in<br />
the country’s newest developments. On the<br />
patio, families can enjoy an outdoor meal on<br />
warm evenings, and the balcony is an ideal<br />
place to sip your morning coffee and take in<br />
the quiet scenery.<br />
What you will appreciate most about Alejas is<br />
the resplendent sense of a true home that this<br />
Alejas offers its<br />
residents<br />
a well-organized<br />
infrastructure<br />
new development provides. There is hardly<br />
a better feeling than cruising the tree-lined<br />
streets of your neighborhood, pulling into your<br />
own driveway, parking in your own garage, and<br />
strolling over to your own front door, where a<br />
house full of your loved ones is waiting to greet<br />
you. That is a genuinely priceless feeling that<br />
makes life all the more worth living.<br />
For more information on Alejas or to arrange a tour,<br />
please consult home page at www.alejas.lv<br />
BALTIC OUTLOOK / OCTOBER 2010 / 51
OUTLOOK / fOOD fEsTIVALs<br />
52 / AIRBALTIC.COM
OUTLOOK / fOOD fEsTIVALs<br />
TExT: OsKARs KLAUzE, PETER WALsh,<br />
NORA TIRUmA, CLAIRE gERVAT<br />
PHOTOS: CORBIs, PUBLICITY AND COURTEsY Of<br />
ENTE TURIsmO ALBA, BRA LANghE E ROERO<br />
Delicious<br />
Food<br />
Festivals<br />
Here is a <strong>Baltic</strong> Outlook guide to<br />
some European food festivals that<br />
will be taking place in France, Italy,<br />
Switzerland and Spain during the<br />
months of October and November.<br />
BALTIC OUTLOOK / OCTOBER 2010 / 53
OUTLOOK / fOOD fEsTIVALs<br />
Siesta on the Seafood Coast:<br />
Fiesta del Marisco in O Grove, Spain<br />
54 / AIRBALTIC.COM<br />
Of all food festivals,<br />
few are as enticing for gourmets as those celebrating<br />
the edible delights of the sea, be they lobsters in<br />
Maine, oysters in Ireland or shrimps in the pretty French<br />
port of Honfleur. But what if your taste buds yearn for a<br />
Fly to Barcelona or Madrid<br />
with air<strong>Baltic</strong> from<br />
€73<br />
more varied selection?<br />
Fortunately, a number of festivals allow you to<br />
indulge in vast range of seafood. One of the best<br />
is in Galicia, on the rugged north-west corner of<br />
Spain. Fishing is a way of life there. Indeed, it is<br />
so important that the whole shoreline – around<br />
1500 kilometres of it – is known in Galician as the<br />
Costa do Marisco, or the Seafood Coast.<br />
Therefore, it is not surprising that the bounty of<br />
the sea is celebrated with such enthusiasm at the<br />
annual Seafood Festival or Festa do Marisco, which<br />
runs this year from October 1 to 12 in the town of<br />
O Grove.<br />
The fishing port of O Grove itself, accessible from<br />
Vigo, Santiago de Compostela or La Coruña, is on<br />
a peninsula sticking out into the Atlantic Ocean,<br />
flanked by long, sheltered estuaries. Thanks to<br />
these varied marine habitats, the waters around<br />
O Grove support a huge range of sea life.<br />
That’s great news for visitors to the festival. Every<br />
day, they have the chance to sample anything<br />
from razor clams and mussels to crayfish and the<br />
local speciality, octopus a la gallega, cooked with<br />
olive oil, sea salt and Spain’s version of paprika – and<br />
at very reasonable prices. There is so much choice<br />
that you’ll hardly know where to begin.<br />
The stalls are set up in marquees around the port<br />
area, beside the Ria de Arosa, providing muchneeded<br />
shelter and plenty of tables on which to
est all those laden terracotta dishes and wooden<br />
platters. It would be very easy to spend most of<br />
the day (the stalls take a break in the afternoon)<br />
queuing, eating, drinking and soaking up the lively<br />
atmosphere created by an estimated 200 000<br />
visitors.<br />
However, O Grove and the surrounding peninsula<br />
are also popular summer holiday destinations for<br />
families, while the neighbouring islet of A Toxa<br />
attracts a more upmarket crowd. By October, of<br />
course, the main tourist season is over, which<br />
makes it easier to find cheap accommodations. The<br />
enticing beaches around O Grove are still perfect<br />
for walking off the calories or snoozing with a good<br />
book. And there are plenty of cafés and bars to relax<br />
in between sessions at the seafood stalls.<br />
Once you have had your fill of seafood, you can<br />
choose from a number of other activities to keep<br />
you amused. The first weekend of the festival is given<br />
over to the regatta and to popular games such as<br />
petanque and horseshoe-throwing, which are noisily<br />
and hotly contested.<br />
Festa do Marisco, October 1-12 , O Grove, Spain<br />
www.turismogrove.com<br />
Local wine and beer<br />
Galicia produces some superb, crisp white wines,<br />
such as the excellent Albariño, which has acquired<br />
an international reputation. As an alternative, we<br />
recommend the local Estrella de Galicia beer from<br />
A Coruña, which goes perfectly with heartier fish<br />
dishes. It is also regarded by many as Spain’s best<br />
brew.<br />
Heading for a detox<br />
Overdone the eating and drinking? The<br />
neighbouring islet of A Toxa has several<br />
thalassotherapy centres where you can recover in<br />
thermal spring waters, of which Gran Hotel La Toja<br />
is the best known. Otherwise, there are plenty<br />
of squeaky-clean sandy beaches for windswept<br />
walks near O Grove and around the peninsula.<br />
www.granhotellatoja.com<br />
Start of the spider crab season<br />
There’s more foodie fun in O Grove later in the<br />
year with the Spider Crab Festival (November<br />
27 – December 8) to mark the start of the new<br />
crab season. Bargain-hunting gourmets will be<br />
in heaven, as local chefs compete to produce<br />
the most delicious dishes to new or traditional<br />
recipes.
OUTLOOK / fOOD fEsTIVALs<br />
Going nuts in rural France:<br />
Chestnut festival in Foire de la Châtaigne<br />
Every October, the tiny hillside village of<br />
Mourjou, in the Auvergne region of France, plays host to the Foire<br />
de la Châtaigne, a two-day festival in honour of chestnuts. This<br />
distinctly nutty affair draws some 20 000 visitors every year and<br />
combines a vast array of mouth-watering food, lively music and, of<br />
course, tonnes of chestnuts.<br />
Chestnuts used to be a staple in this once-poor part of France<br />
and were ground into flour or fed to pigs to improve their taste.<br />
Mourjou itself lies in a 1000-square kilometre area known as the<br />
Châtaignerie, or chestnut grove. Nearly all Mourjou’s 360 villagers<br />
take part in the festival and start preparing for it months in<br />
advance.<br />
Numerous stalls and marquees fill out the village, offering<br />
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La Maison de la<br />
Châtaigne<br />
A trip to Mourjou isn’t complete<br />
without a visit to its charming<br />
chestnut museum, La Maison de la<br />
Châtaigne. The museum opened in<br />
1999 and is housed in a tastefully<br />
converted barn. A trip there and to<br />
the Foire de la Châtaigne will surely<br />
endear you to this humble little nut<br />
for the rest of your life.<br />
www.maisonduchataignier.fr<br />
Nutrition facts<br />
Being low in fat, rich in fiber and<br />
gluten-free, the chestnut is an<br />
exemplary component of a healthy<br />
and energy-filled diet. It has less<br />
calories than other nuts, and having<br />
similar nutritional properties to<br />
brown rice, the chestnut is often<br />
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everything from chestnut flour to chestnut wine to chestnut<br />
pies. An estimated three tonnes of nuts will be consumed in<br />
some shape or form during the festival, along with 6000 litres of<br />
a delicious local cider.<br />
Your mind will boggle at the sheer inventiveness of the French<br />
locals in the use of the unassuming chestnut. You will find jars of<br />
chestnut jam and a tangy chestnut-flower honey, chestnut liqueur,<br />
madeleine cakes with chestnut, and even chestnut marshmallows.<br />
Be sure to sample the divine tuiles de châtaigne, a biscuit made<br />
from chestnut flour, butter and sugar. There are also specialities on<br />
offer from neighbouring regions, such as pâté from the Ardèche,<br />
charcuterie from the Dordogne and baked goods from the Lot<br />
Valley.<br />
Chestnuts have made something of a return to culinary vogue<br />
in recent years, although the English language can’t differentiate<br />
between a châtaigne and a marron. Both translate into English as<br />
chestnut and the trees are so similar that you can only tell which is<br />
which by opening the prickly husk. The châtaigne has a stronger,<br />
sweeter flavour and is much more versatile than the relatively<br />
tasteless marron.<br />
Foire de la Châtaigne, Mourjou<br />
October 23-24<br />
www.foirechataignemourjou.fr<br />
called the grain that grows on a<br />
tree. Historic evidence indicates<br />
that the Greek army may have<br />
survived its retreat from Asia Minor<br />
(in 401-399 BC) thanks to copious<br />
supplies of chestnuts.<br />
Vulcania<br />
Chestnuts aren’t the only treasure<br />
of the Auvergne region. Vulcania, or<br />
the European Volcano Park, is a good<br />
way to enrich your visit to the village<br />
of Mourjou. Auvergne happens to be<br />
the home of the largest group of<br />
volcanoes in Europe. Although the<br />
volcanoes haven’t erupted for the<br />
last 6000 years, the Grand Geyser,<br />
Magma Explorer and a large number<br />
of other exciting rides will hold<br />
your children’s attention for quite<br />
a while.
OUTLOOK / fOOD fEsTIVALs<br />
At the centre of attention:<br />
tartufo bianco<br />
Alba International Truffle Festival, Italy<br />
During the month of October, colourful celebrations<br />
take place just about everywhere in Italy. Each village, even<br />
the smallest, has its own patron saint protecting it, as well as a<br />
traditional product of which the village is proud. At least once a<br />
year, both the patron saint and the local delicacy have a significant<br />
festival celebrated in their honour.<br />
It would be difficult to find a gastronomic treasure that is more<br />
valuable and more surrounded by legend than the white truffle<br />
(tartufo bianco in Italian). Every October in Alba (Cuneo province,<br />
Piemonte), the truffle season is celebrated with the most important<br />
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THosE wHo wIsH to master the<br />
subtleties of evaluating the smell and<br />
appreciating the taste of truffles can<br />
take a four-hour-long course, which<br />
costs 50 EUR.<br />
MoRRA is the most famous variety<br />
of Alba truffle in the world. It was<br />
named in the 1950s by restaurant<br />
owner Giacomo MoRRA, who was<br />
crowned the King of Truffles by<br />
the Times newspaper of London in<br />
1933. He was responsible for putting<br />
Alba on the gourmand world map<br />
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annual truffle market in the world. The auctions for the best truffle<br />
of the year are usually attended by a cinema diva or two, and are<br />
the focus of a real hullabaloo.<br />
Experts from around the world firstly sniff the truffles, then later<br />
move in circles about the laid tables with their little forks raised,<br />
savouring each morsel as they formulate the most appropriate<br />
superlatives to describe the taste.<br />
After the auctions have ended, the media eagerly report the names of<br />
the restaurants to which the most outstanding examples of the year’s<br />
crop will be delivered, while gourmands hurry to reserve places at<br />
these privileged establishments for their greatest meal of the year.<br />
Each day, one can enjoy exhibitions, concerts and the sight of<br />
people dressed in historical costumes. An annual donkey race<br />
also takes place, in which only representatives of established, local<br />
families take part.<br />
Alba International Truffle festival<br />
www.fieradeltartufo.org<br />
and consolidated the city’s truffle<br />
traditions.<br />
THE osTERIA LALIBERA REsTAURAnT,<br />
which offers outstanding truffle dishes<br />
to both locals and tourists.<br />
Via E. Pertinace, Alba<br />
Tel.: 017-3293-155<br />
PRICEs TEnd to be very high in the<br />
centrally located restaurants, and<br />
in the establishments mentioned<br />
in prominent gastronomic tourism<br />
guides, especially during the festival.
OUTLOOK / fOOD fEsTIVALs<br />
One of the best-kept<br />
Italian secrets:<br />
Pistachio Festival in Bronte, Italy<br />
While outstanding chefs and movie stars mix at the Alba<br />
Truffle Festival, another festival that is also rich in local charm<br />
takes place in Sicily. It is dedicated to the pistachio nut, which is<br />
considered to be one of the best-kept secrets of meridional cuisine.<br />
The pistachio is an ingredient in many tasty Sicilian recipes, including<br />
salads, seafood, pastas, dried foods and desserts. It is specifically in<br />
Bronte, a small town at the western edge of the mighty Etna volcano,<br />
where a weekend festival is dedicated to them each year.<br />
Bronte is the true embodiment of tradition, with parades of<br />
Sicilian flag-bearers and ornate carriages, brilliant chains of flowers,<br />
performances of traditional folk music and long tables straining<br />
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THE PIsTACHIo ITsELF, as well as its<br />
name, fristach (a derivation of the<br />
Persian fistich), was introduced into<br />
Europe by the Arabs.<br />
THE nUTRITIonAL VALUE of the<br />
pistachio is exceptionally high. By<br />
weight, it has twice the number of<br />
calories as butter. The nuts are used<br />
mainly for their particular flavour,<br />
imparting the food with accents that<br />
are characteristic of Etna cuisine.<br />
Hosteria della Stazione,<br />
D.Da Difesa (Casello 61)<br />
Bronte (CT)<br />
Tel.: 3290236244.<br />
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with air<strong>Baltic</strong> from<br />
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under the weight of various Sicilian delicacies.<br />
Arabs were the first to grow pistachios in Sicily. In 1860, pistachiogrowing<br />
areas were expanded on the island and Bronte County,<br />
which is blessed with a view of Mount Etna, became the home of<br />
the most significant plantations.<br />
Pistachio trees flower in April, but the crop is harvested in<br />
September or October, depending on the weather. The use of<br />
these nuts is much wider than may first be imagined. If you are<br />
still unfamiliar with the famous Sicilian cannoli, with its ricotta<br />
cheese filling and sprinkles of pistachio at the ends, you should<br />
certainly be prepared to make this culinary discovery.<br />
A little-known fact is that overall, at least twice as many pistachios<br />
are used in the preparation of typical Sicilian salami, salsiccia fried<br />
sausages, pasta sauces, meat and seafood, than for the famous<br />
green pistachio ice cream and other sweet desserts. In other<br />
words, just about all of the possible transformations of pistachios<br />
into tasty dishes can be witnessed at Bronte during the first<br />
weekend of October.<br />
Sagra del Pistacchio<br />
September 30-October 3, Bronte<br />
www.comune.bronte.ct.it<br />
A sUPERB TRAdITIonAL REsTAURAnT<br />
with a family atmosphere, where<br />
you can taste food that is typical<br />
of the Etna region. The dishes are<br />
carefully prepared and are served with<br />
excellent Etna wines, as well as typical<br />
pistachio desserts.
OUTLOOK / fOOD fEsTIVALs<br />
Honouring the Food<br />
of the Gods:<br />
International Chocolate Exhibition, Switzerland<br />
Nothing can beat the smell that wafts out<br />
of chocolate factories when chocolate beans are being<br />
ground there. Festivals in honour of chocolate are held in<br />
many places around the world, and one of those places is<br />
Switzerland, which has the highest per capita rate of chocolate<br />
consumption in the world.<br />
The first International Chocolate Exhibition took place on<br />
the shores of Lake Lugano this spring, drawing about 60 000<br />
visitors. It was so popular that the organizers have decided<br />
to hold another festival with the slogan More Chocolate this<br />
November, as a warm-up to the Christmas season.<br />
The best Swiss and other Western European chocolate<br />
manufacturers are determined to ensure that this festival<br />
is a similarly unforgettable event, with workshops, tastings,<br />
shows and even a chocolate spa that will offer warm chocolate<br />
massages for the hands. An artificially created beach will also<br />
be set up, complete with umbrellas and deck chairs in which<br />
to lie back and enjoy this popular delicacy, which is known the<br />
62 / AIRBALTIC.COM<br />
AnoTHER chocolate festival will take<br />
place this year in the northern Italian<br />
city of Perugia, from october 15-24.<br />
Italians call Perugia their “capital city<br />
of chocolate.” The renowned Perugina<br />
chocolate factory and chocolate<br />
museum are located there, and they<br />
won’t let anyone leave without a<br />
tasting.<br />
THE sPAnIsH were among the first<br />
Europeans who began to experiment<br />
with the Aztecs’ bitter power<br />
beverage, the dark and tonifying<br />
chocolate drink, four centuries ago.<br />
After they replaced chilli peppers with<br />
milk and sugar, the drink became<br />
very popular in Europe. Meanwhile,<br />
the French conducted all sorts of<br />
experiments with chocolate in their<br />
cuisine, using it not only in desserts,<br />
but also in the preparation of main<br />
courses, including meat sauces, glazes<br />
and foie gras.<br />
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world over for generating a pleasant sensation of well-being.<br />
The Lugano Chocolate Festival draws many young families with<br />
children, mainly from Switzerland, Italy, Germany and France.<br />
Eurochocolate Swiss: International Chocolate Exhibition, Lugano<br />
November 11 – 14<br />
www.eurochocolate.com<br />
THE TRUE HIsToRy oF CHoCoLATE,<br />
sophie d. Coe and Michael Coe,<br />
Thames & Hudson, 2000.<br />
Both of the book’s authors are<br />
anthropologists with a gastronomic<br />
touch, making this volume fascinating<br />
for those who love historical facts,<br />
as well as for economists and<br />
gourmands.<br />
wHITE CHoCoLATE doesn’t have any<br />
cocoa mass, but it does have cocoa<br />
butter.<br />
www.facts-about-chocolate.com
OUTLOOK TRAVEL / fINLAND<br />
The forecast<br />
calls for<br />
<strong>rapujuhla</strong>:<br />
Adventures of a thirty<br />
something-year-old<br />
crayfish virgin<br />
TExT AND PHOTOS: ROgER NORUm, AUThOR AND PhOTOgRAPhER<br />
Of ThE NEW ROUgh gUIDE TO fINLAND<br />
64 / AIRBALTIC.COM<br />
Finland’s short summers<br />
bring everyone out to<br />
the countryside for<br />
sauna get-togethers and<br />
skinny-dipping parties<br />
during long, white<br />
balmy nights. However,<br />
once the Scandinavian<br />
summer cools off,<br />
Finland’s crayfish<br />
season heats up, making<br />
early autumn the<br />
perfect time to come<br />
and take part in this<br />
unique Nordic ritual.<br />
I arrived unannounced recently for a short<br />
stay in Åland, that group of over 6000<br />
islands and skerries splayed out in the <strong>Baltic</strong><br />
Sea between Finland and Sweden. After<br />
befriending a group of jovial islanders,<br />
I found myself invited to an all-night soirée.<br />
After dinner, we all stripped to our skivvies<br />
and headed into the sauna to sweat it up,<br />
then jumped into the chilly lake water,<br />
which was lit up with colorful paper<br />
lanterns heralding the end of the summer<br />
season. At some point, I heard the clock<br />
strike 2 a.m., but we were all still wide<br />
awake. Someone had once again turned up<br />
the tango music and the partying wasn’t<br />
going to end anytime soon.<br />
finns are fanatics of classic cars. When<br />
I arrived at the cabin on Åland’s northern<br />
coast, there were old Saabs, Mercedes,<br />
Triumphs and Chevrolets parked outside<br />
and tango music was lilting from a<br />
nearby radio.
traditionally, freshwater crayfish are caught in traps or nets<br />
baited with herring or sunfish. Ours had been caught that morning<br />
in nearby Tjudö, where the island’s famous apple brandy is distilled.<br />
The Astacus astacus – Scandinavia’s sole natural crayfish species – is<br />
also known as the “noble crayfish,” as it is the crème de la crème<br />
when it comes to taste.<br />
once the dinner<br />
bell rang, the eight<br />
of us sat down at a<br />
table by the water’s<br />
edge, where the air<br />
was thick with the<br />
aroma of smoked<br />
sausages, along<br />
with the smoke<br />
of a wood-heated<br />
sauna. On draught<br />
were Stallhagen<br />
(Åland’s local brew)<br />
and Lapin Kulta<br />
(Finland’s national<br />
beer), but we started<br />
things off with a<br />
shot of Ålvados, the<br />
local 42% apple<br />
brandy, which is a<br />
great appetizer.<br />
OUTLOOK TRAVEL / fINLAND<br />
the crayfish party or <strong>rapujuhla</strong> in Finnish, is usually enjoyed<br />
in the great outdoors. Since 75% of Finland’s territory is covered<br />
with vast tracts of forested wilderness and another 10% consists<br />
of inland waterways, this is rarely a problem. Be sure to head<br />
straight to an inland lake or to the <strong>Baltic</strong> archipelago.<br />
You are left with<br />
a diminutive critical<br />
mass of crayfish meat,<br />
which you scoop out<br />
with your fingers and<br />
a small tong, sprinkling<br />
it on top of a slice of<br />
crispy toast spread<br />
with dill, local caraway<br />
cheese and lemon<br />
butter (or mayonnaise).<br />
This is repeated until<br />
the catch has been<br />
consumed, or until you<br />
have reached some<br />
state of intoxication:<br />
beer and liquor are<br />
consumed in no small<br />
quantity during the<br />
meal.<br />
while there may<br />
be more than one<br />
way to disembowel<br />
a crustacean, the<br />
Finnish method<br />
involves cracking<br />
the neck, removing<br />
the head, tearing off<br />
the main shell and<br />
then stripping out<br />
the single strand<br />
of intestinal tract,<br />
which should peel<br />
easily out of the<br />
body.<br />
BALTIC OUTLOOK / OCTOBER 2010 / 65
local Ålänningars send off colorful paper lanterns lit with candles out to sea, bringing<br />
an end to the summer and welcoming autumn.<br />
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Cumulus, Rantasipi, air<strong>Baltic</strong>, air<strong>Baltic</strong>Travel.com, Language Direct<br />
Åland’s most smashing place to stay<br />
is this gorgeous, elegant resort right<br />
on the archipelago’s north shore –<br />
perfect for a crayfish evening with<br />
friends. They even have an authentic<br />
smoke sauna and large jacuzzi for<br />
kicking back afterwards.<br />
fly to Helsinki, Turku or Stockholm,<br />
HavsVidden (+ 358 184 9408;<br />
www.havsvidden.com)<br />
Alternatively, head to mainland<br />
Finland’s Lake District for a lovely<br />
evening on the shores of a quiet,<br />
remote waterway. Easily the best<br />
place in the country to learn the<br />
ins and outs of crayfish culture, an<br />
evening here includes lessons by<br />
Lord of the Manor Pasi Heinonen,<br />
who will guide you gingerly through<br />
the ritual, ensuring that you avoid any<br />
faux pas in crayfish consumption.<br />
fly to Tampere, where Crayfish Manor<br />
(+358 44 592 9429; www.rapukartano.fi)<br />
For more information on Finland,<br />
visit www.visitfinland.com/uk<br />
Special thanks to Visit Åland<br />
(www.visitaland.com) and<br />
GoTampere (www.gotampere.fi).
American Corner Retail and Logistics Park Tallinn is the first<br />
project of its kind in Estonia and will bring a wide new offering<br />
of retail goods to the market.<br />
• Superb motorway junction location with convenient<br />
access<br />
• 12 mins to the Tallinn city centre and 7 mins to the<br />
international airport<br />
• Over 100,000 m 2 of retail warehouse and over 177,000 m 2<br />
of prime logistics warehouse space to be constructed<br />
• Flexible unit sizes of 1,000 m 2 – 40,000 m 2<br />
• Over 2,600 parking spaces and public transport links<br />
to be provided<br />
• High specification units can be constructed to tenant’s<br />
requirements<br />
AMERICAN<br />
CORNER<br />
RETAIL & LOGISTICS PARK | TALLINN<br />
Estonia’s first modern retail and logistics park development<br />
Over 100,000 m 2 of buildable retail space<br />
Over 177,000 m 2 of prime logistics warehouse space<br />
TENANT ENQUIRIES<br />
Kevin Havill<br />
DTZ Sweden<br />
Kungsbron 2<br />
111 22 Stockholm<br />
Sweden<br />
Tel. +46 8 671 34 00<br />
kevin.havill@dtz.com<br />
DEVELOPER CONTACTS<br />
John Clements<br />
European Development Director<br />
Stephansplatz 10<br />
(Eingang Goldschmiedgasse 2)<br />
A-1010 Vienna<br />
Austria<br />
Tel. +43 1 533 60 20<br />
clements@helioseurope.eu<br />
www.helioseurope.eu<br />
Veiko Murruste<br />
Managing Director<br />
Süda Maja AS<br />
Roosikrantsi 11<br />
10119 Tallinn<br />
Estonia<br />
Tel. +372 66 76 201<br />
veiko.murruste@sydamaja.ee<br />
www.sydamaja.ee
CARs<br />
In assocIatIon wIth Whatcar.LV<br />
Nissan Juke<br />
Supermini sized crossover with plenty of attitude<br />
68 / AIRBALTIC.COM<br />
A supermini<br />
version of<br />
the Qashqai<br />
says...<br />
Clever Nissan. Back in 2007, the Japanese company<br />
was first to spot that some car buyers were getting<br />
bored with normal-sized family vehicles, while<br />
others were feeling increasingly uncomfortable<br />
in their large 4x4s. Hence, a crossover was born,<br />
which Nissan named Qashqai.<br />
The Qashqai was Ford Focus-sized, but with a Land<br />
Rover Freelander attitude. It even had four-wheeldrive<br />
for those who wanted a true 4x4 feeling.
Son of Qashqai – the Juke<br />
is born<br />
The Qashqai has been a runaway success<br />
and now clever Nissan is at it again with<br />
the Juke. Think of the Juke as a supermini<br />
version of the Qashqai – complete with<br />
a funky, 4x4 appearance in something<br />
just a little larger than a Ford Fiesta. A<br />
genuine, four-wheel-drive version is also<br />
available.<br />
If Nissan was brave with the Qashqai,<br />
then it has been fearless with the Juke,<br />
staying faithful to the wild Qazana<br />
concept car of last year, with bulging<br />
front headlights, big wheel arches, a<br />
coupe-like roofline and hidden rear doors.<br />
Inside story<br />
Inside, the car takes its inspiration from<br />
motorbikes, with ‘floating’ instruments<br />
and a centre console that is styled to<br />
resemble a bike’s fuel tank. It’s a shame,<br />
then, that some of the plastics around the<br />
cabin feel a bit cheap.<br />
This isn’t a case of style over substance,<br />
though – the Juke does all of the things<br />
that you would expect a supermini-sized<br />
car to do. Four large-ish people can travel<br />
in reasonable, if not overly generous<br />
comfort. The rear doors, with their<br />
handles hidden in the window frame, are<br />
a bit narrow (particularly if you want to<br />
fit a child seat through them), while the<br />
shallow windows make the car feel more<br />
snug inside than it actually is.<br />
The boot is an acceptable size, with a<br />
hidden section under the floor. The seats<br />
fold down for even more space and the<br />
parcel shelf is cleverly incorporated into<br />
the boot door.<br />
Engine options<br />
Most buyers will probably go for the<br />
standard 1.6-litre petrol engine (a revised<br />
version of the engine found in the<br />
Qashqai). The cars that we drove had a<br />
110 hp, 1.5-litre diesel engine, while the<br />
all-new, 1.6-litre direct injection turbo<br />
petrol model had 190 hp.<br />
The 1.5-litre diesel engine is a little<br />
grumbly, but has a reasonable amount<br />
of power and is quite smooth – although<br />
our car did have a slight hiccup at around<br />
1800 rpm. It may seem a bit expensive<br />
compared to the 1.6-litre model, which<br />
will probably be nicer to drive and will still<br />
give you reasonable fuel economy.<br />
Nissan’s new, 1.6-litre, direct injection<br />
turbo petrol engine is even hotter news.<br />
It will propel the Juke from 0-100 km/h<br />
in 8.0 seconds and could be defined as<br />
Engine Size<br />
1,6 Pure<br />
drive 2WD<br />
1,6 M/T<br />
2WD<br />
1,6 CVT<br />
2WD<br />
1,6 DIG-T<br />
M/T 2WD<br />
1,6 DIG-T<br />
CVT 4WD<br />
CARs<br />
1,5 dCI M/T<br />
2WD<br />
Price From € 15 210 € 18 056 € 17 771 € 19 194 € 20 546 € 16 918<br />
Power 117 Hp 117 Hp 117 Hp 190 Hp 190 Hp 110 Hp<br />
Economy<br />
l/100km<br />
6 6,4 6,3 6,9 7,6 5,1<br />
CO2 g/km 138 149 145 150 175 134<br />
The Juke is another<br />
success story<br />
smooth, refined and punchy. Although<br />
it doesn’t exactly turn the Juke into a<br />
Formula 1 racing machine, this engine<br />
makes the car fun to drive, and at a<br />
reasonable price.<br />
The range-topping turbo model comes<br />
with an advanced, four-wheel-drive<br />
system and a CVT automatic gearbox.<br />
However, unless you really want fourwheel<br />
drive, its price is a bit too steep for<br />
the Juke.<br />
On the road<br />
Given the Juke’s tall stance – it is only<br />
slightly lower than a Qashqai – it doesn’t<br />
roll around through bends. Don’t go<br />
thinking that this model is sporty,<br />
though. It is just a bit more fun than<br />
you might expect at first glance. Even<br />
with the Dynamic Control System<br />
set to Sport, the steering feels a little<br />
slack and the front end will lose grip<br />
if you try to get through a corner<br />
swiftly. The ride isn’t as comfy as a<br />
Qashqai’s and feels a little over-firm<br />
at times.<br />
In any case, with its distinctly<br />
Japanese emblem on the hood, the<br />
Juke seems set to be another success<br />
story for Nissan. It is different enough<br />
to be interesting, good enough to<br />
drive and just about spacious enough<br />
for occasional family trips.<br />
What Car? says<br />
Is the Juke the right car at the right<br />
time? Although it has got some other,<br />
equally striking small cars like the<br />
Audi A1 and the Mini Countryman<br />
to contend with, the Juke offers a<br />
good value and is a hugely tempting<br />
alternative to both. BO<br />
BALTIC OUTLOOK / OCTOBER 2010 / 69
CARs<br />
Your car’s<br />
colour of money<br />
Colour is a powerful thing. It can transform a bland bedroom into a charming<br />
boudoir, or turn a financially sound car choice into an ownership disaster. Yet<br />
most people don’t link a car’s colour with its rate of depreciation – and that can<br />
be a major mistake.<br />
Colour choice can affect your car’s second-hand value by thousands of euros.<br />
Even the cheapest new cars can be affected: pick the wrong colour on a basic<br />
supermini and you could be 1000 euros out of pocket in just three years.<br />
70 / AIRBALTIC.COM<br />
unusuAl<br />
colouRs<br />
cAn go out<br />
of fAsHIon<br />
veRY<br />
quIcKlY,<br />
so Be<br />
cAutIous...
So, what is the right colour?<br />
Choose an inoffensive colour such as black<br />
for your new Ford Fiesta and it will be<br />
worth around 1000 euros more than the<br />
same car in green after three years. Buy a<br />
new BMW 3 Series in white instead of green<br />
and it will be worth around 2000 euros<br />
more after the same three-year period.<br />
The colours most resistant to depreciation<br />
depend on the make, model, engine and<br />
trim of the car to which they are attached.<br />
However, according to What Car?, there<br />
are some basic rules to follow. Mainstream<br />
versions of run-of-the mill cars, including<br />
the Ford Mondeo, Opel Astra and even the<br />
Volkswagen Golf, hold on to their value<br />
better when painted silver, black or grey.<br />
This might seem a bit boring, but buyers<br />
of this type of car – new and used – are<br />
usually pretty conservative with their<br />
colour choice, so it is best to steer clear of<br />
unusual shades, including white.<br />
It is the same with executive and luxury<br />
cars. Therefore, high-end Audis, BMWs<br />
and Mercedes are best in black, silver or<br />
anything in between.<br />
Tick the ‘white’ box when ordering a new<br />
Mercedes-Benz E220 CDI Blue Efficiency<br />
SE and you will be chucking away nearly<br />
1500 euros in additional depreciation.<br />
You can experiment a bit more with<br />
performance variants of premium saloons,<br />
such as the BMW M3 or Audi RS5, but it<br />
is best not to be too adventurous with<br />
everyday versions.<br />
Saving cash doesn’t always mean being<br />
unadventurous. Sometimes, choosing an<br />
eye-catching colour will actually help to<br />
slow a car’s depreciation. Fiat 500 buyers,<br />
for example, are better off plumping for<br />
white or red rather than silver, and the<br />
Citroën DS3 retains its value better in<br />
yellow or white than it does in grey. Most<br />
buyers of fashionable, small cars want to<br />
stand out from the crowd, which is why in<br />
this case, bright colours are more desirable.<br />
Sports cars are an anomaly because they<br />
hold their value equally well in conservative<br />
colours and more adventurous shades.<br />
Whether you choose grey, black, white,<br />
silver, yellow or even bright red for your<br />
new Porsche 911, Cayman or Boxster, it will<br />
be worth near enough the same after three<br />
years. There are still some pitfalls, though:<br />
green or brown will batter your Porsche’s<br />
second-hand value by 7-9%. That translates<br />
to a loss of around 3000 euros on an entrylevel<br />
Boxster.<br />
Metallic or flat?<br />
As a rule, metallic paint boosts the value of<br />
a second-hand car by a few hundred euros,<br />
but you need to offset this against the extra<br />
cost of the paint when buying new.<br />
You will make back roughly half the original<br />
cost of metallic paint on run-of-the-mill<br />
cars such as superminis, small family<br />
hatchbacks and family cars.<br />
On some small and fashion-led cars, such as<br />
the Mini or Fiat 500, your return is likely to<br />
be even lower.<br />
And on most executive and luxury cars, a<br />
metallic finish is definitely a no-brainer. BO<br />
CARs
gADgETs TExT: gIRTs ROzNERs | PUBLICITY PhOTOs<br />
Let’s talk!<br />
logitech Z623<br />
Let the walls shake<br />
Have you heard about THX certification? It is conducted by a well-known and<br />
independent group of people who put electronic gadgets through a series of quality<br />
tests. The new Logitech 2.1 sound system has received their stamp of approval in<br />
the form of a THX certificate, which means that Logitech’s 200-W (RMS) speakers<br />
won’t simply give you noise, but will provide a truly superb sound for your computer<br />
or television.<br />
The Z623 speaker system goes for about 170 EUR.<br />
nokia n8<br />
New Smartphone with Iconic Features<br />
Nokia’s latest smartphone Nokia N8, powered by the<br />
Symbian^3, the latest edition of the world’s most used<br />
smartphone software, is already available in shops all around<br />
the world at an estimated retail price of EUR 370, before<br />
applicable taxes or subsidies. The N8 is an iconic device with<br />
an amazing set of features that have yet to be seen in the<br />
smartphone market – a 12 Mpix camera with Carl Zeiss optics,<br />
Xenon flash and a large sensor, HD-quality filming and editing<br />
suite, Dolby Digital surround sound, HDMI connection, and<br />
many other great features. The Ovi store offers thousands of<br />
different applications to upgrade the Nokia N8 and make it<br />
more personal.
sennheiser pX360Bt<br />
Musical transformer<br />
The new Sennheiser collapsible<br />
headphones can be safely placed into<br />
your bag, without worrying about<br />
accidentally breaking them during<br />
your travels. The two moveable metal<br />
connections on each speaker ensure a<br />
comfortable headphone transformation.<br />
The headphones are sufficiently large,<br />
but folded up can easily fit in your<br />
laptop bag’s side pocket. In addition, the<br />
PX360BT has wireless headphones that<br />
can be connected to any Bluetooth 2.1<br />
technology-supporting equipment.<br />
However, the main thing is that they sound<br />
really great!<br />
sony walkman nw-A840<br />
A particularly stylish player<br />
We have all grown to love the Walkman, with each now model surpassing<br />
its predecessor in one way or another. This latest is an addition to the<br />
Walkman A series. Currently it is the thinnest of them all – only 7.2<br />
millimetres wide. The NW-A840 is available in various colours and with<br />
varying memory sizes – 16, 32 and 64 GB. It has a 2.8-inch OLED display,<br />
which means that the colours are especially bright.<br />
www.sonyinsider.com<br />
canon X mark I mouse<br />
Three in one<br />
The new Canon calculator can also be used as a wireless (Bluetooth 2.0)<br />
mouse and numeric keyboard for a computer. This unusual mouse is<br />
equipped with three click buttons and a scroll-wheel, but the rest of the<br />
calculator keyboard can be easily blocked, so that during its use a digit isn’t<br />
pressed down inadvertently. Using the calculator as a mouse, however,<br />
means that you will have to change the batteries more frequently. Who<br />
knows, perhaps one day this sort of equipment will operate completely on<br />
solar batteries? The Canon X Mark I Mouse is compatible with both PCs and<br />
MAC computers.<br />
www.notebooks.com
OUTLOOK / PROmO<br />
Heady<br />
luxury<br />
A portrait of two water nymphs,<br />
looking out knowingly from the<br />
depths of still waters – Nixen, the<br />
1889 painting by Gustav Klimt, has<br />
served as a source of inspiration for<br />
the FREY WILLE in–house artistic team<br />
to create a new lavish, luxuriously<br />
ornamental and heady collection Nixe.<br />
This celebration of female mystery<br />
and sensuality, 19 bangles, watches,<br />
earrings, broaches and rings, are<br />
already available in all FREY WILLE<br />
boutiques.<br />
Rings Diva, Miss and Ultra<br />
24kt yellow gold plating and high shine / mirror finish effect enamel decor<br />
that contains 23.5kt yellow gold and 22.5kt platinum. Worn alone or to finish<br />
set of several jewellery pieces, these noticeable and stylish rings are a real<br />
eye catcher.<br />
Value: 210.00 / 160.00 / 160.00 LVL<br />
74 / AIRBALTIC.COM<br />
Luna Piena pendant adjusted with Anchor chain<br />
24kt yellow gold plating and high shine / mirror finish effect<br />
enamel decor that contains 23.5kt yellow gold and 22.5kt platinum.<br />
Value: 448.00 LVL<br />
earrings Cabochon<br />
24kt yellow gold plating and high shine / mirror finish effect enamel<br />
decor that contains 23.5kt yellow gold and 22.5kt platinum.<br />
Value: 240.00 LVL<br />
Bordered bangles Diva, Miss and Ultra<br />
24kt yellow gold plating and high shine / mirror finish effect enamel<br />
decor that contains 23.5kt yellow gold and 22.5kt platinum. Bangles<br />
create original and sophisticated look as these are possible to mix and<br />
match several at one time.<br />
Value: 520.00 / 335.00 / 285.00 LVL<br />
clasp bangle Contessa<br />
24kt yellow gold plating and high shine / mirror finish effect enamel<br />
decor that contains 23.5kt yellow gold and 22.5kt platinum.<br />
Value: 495.00 LVL
Hydrating<br />
cleansing milk<br />
An exceptionally gentle,<br />
yet deeply cleansing,<br />
water-soluble creamy<br />
milk – so versatile<br />
that it can be used as<br />
a wonderfully light<br />
moisturiser. It sweeps<br />
away impurities without<br />
affecting the natural<br />
balance of oils in your skin,<br />
leaving your face cleansed,<br />
refreshed and hydrated.<br />
The milk is formulated as a<br />
highly therapeutic blend of<br />
pure plant extracts, which<br />
work together to deliver<br />
impressive results.<br />
100 ml 19.50 LVL<br />
200 ml 25.50 LVL<br />
24-hour<br />
moisturising<br />
complex<br />
A deeply nourishing and<br />
hydrating moisturiser<br />
that helps to protect<br />
and regenerate the skin,<br />
making it feel softer,<br />
smoother and more<br />
radiant. Cell-boosting and<br />
rehydrating frankincense<br />
is combined with calming<br />
myrrh, rejuvenating rose<br />
geranium and neroli, along<br />
with evening primrose oil,<br />
jojoba and coconut. This<br />
complex’s antioxidant<br />
properties help to combat<br />
the signs of ageing, leaving<br />
your skin soft, supple and<br />
revived.<br />
55 ml 44.50 LVL<br />
essential<br />
protective serum<br />
A light, hydrating serum<br />
rich in vitamins, minerals<br />
and natural sunscreens.<br />
It protects, firms and<br />
improves the skin’s natural<br />
function, leaving it soft and<br />
shielded. Formulated for<br />
everyday use, this serum<br />
contains soothing and<br />
hydrating aloe, refreshing<br />
and uplifting tangerine<br />
and cell-rejuvenating<br />
buckthorn, which is<br />
rich in vitamins E and A.<br />
These ingredients work<br />
together to hydrate and<br />
protect your skin from the<br />
effects of the climate and<br />
pollution, making it feel<br />
soft and cared for.<br />
35 ml 33.00 LVL<br />
OUTLOOK / PROmO<br />
Restore your vitality with<br />
ESPA exclusive skin<br />
care products<br />
ESPA Rīga, one of the most renowned spas in the <strong>Baltic</strong>s<br />
is now offering its customers the unique opportunity<br />
to take some of its secrets home with them.<br />
pink hair and scalp<br />
mud<br />
A uniquely versatile<br />
and intensive hair and<br />
scalp treatment. The<br />
combination of red and<br />
white clay, watercress<br />
extract and apricot kernels<br />
helps to moisturise and<br />
condition the hair, scalp<br />
and body. Our pink mud<br />
has achieved worldwide<br />
recognition and is one<br />
of our most popular<br />
products, renowned<br />
for leaving the hair soft<br />
and smooth as silk. The<br />
white clay (kaolin) helps<br />
to stimulate circulation in<br />
the scalp, whilst soothing<br />
watercress helps to<br />
leave the scalp calm and<br />
comfortable. The powerful<br />
conditioning action of<br />
apricot kernels works to<br />
intensively moisturise and<br />
condition your hair, leaving<br />
it revitalised and with<br />
improved manageability.<br />
Perfect for dry, damaged<br />
or chemically treated<br />
hair. Pink hair and scalp<br />
mud is also a great skin<br />
conditioner and can be<br />
used to treat sunburns,<br />
as well as skin conditions<br />
such as eczema and<br />
psoriasis.<br />
180 ml jar 36.00 LVL<br />
200 ml tube 36.00 LVL<br />
shaving mud<br />
This unique product<br />
combines an effective<br />
shaving preparation with a<br />
deep-cleansing mask. Ideal<br />
for sensitive skin, it leaves<br />
your face feeling smooth,<br />
cool and refreshed. The<br />
rich-textured shaving<br />
mud will help your razor<br />
glide across the skin for<br />
a perfectly close shave,<br />
while the white China<br />
clay (kaolin – renowned<br />
for its highly absorbent<br />
properties) will help to<br />
draw out excess oil and<br />
impurities. For best results,<br />
leave it on while brushing<br />
your teeth, shave and then<br />
rinse it off.<br />
200 ml 20.50 LVL<br />
exfoliating body<br />
polish<br />
A rich, aloe-based gel that<br />
gently exfoliates the skin,<br />
removing dry, dull cells and<br />
impurities to leave the skin<br />
brighter, more refined and<br />
softer to the touch. Apricot<br />
kernels are blended with<br />
aloe, phytoplankton and<br />
spearmint to create this<br />
uplifting treatment.<br />
180 ml jar 33.50 LVL<br />
200 ml tube 33.50 LVL<br />
Relaxing salt scrub<br />
A deeply warming and<br />
moisturising body salt<br />
scrub, containing essential<br />
oils of rosemary, bay and<br />
cinnamon to help you relax<br />
and let the stresses of the<br />
day fade away. Mineral-rich<br />
sea salts are combined with<br />
the nourishing benefits of<br />
sweet almond, sunflower<br />
and coconut oils to<br />
exfoliate your body and<br />
reveal smoother, softer,<br />
more radiant skin.<br />
700 ml 33.50 LVL<br />
You can purchase<br />
these fine products<br />
at ESPA Riga, Baznīcas<br />
iela 4a, Riga, Latvia.<br />
www.espariga.com<br />
BALTIC OUTLOOK / OCTOBER 2010 / 75
OUTLOOK / PROmO<br />
<strong>Baltic</strong> wine, spirits & tobacco<br />
leader introduces novelties<br />
“Mineraliniai vandenys“ expands export and opens a new concept shop<br />
The crisis, which started two years ago, has not suspended the strategic plans of<br />
the leading wine, spirits and tobacco distributor in the <strong>Baltic</strong> states: this year, the<br />
company “Mineraliniai vandenys” (MV) has strengthened its positions in the export<br />
markets and, in Vilnius, the company opened the most modern specialized drinks<br />
shop in Lithuania.<br />
76 / AIRBALTIC.COM
According to the General Manager of MV Marijus<br />
Cilcius, in the <strong>Baltic</strong> States‘ markets, the latter two years<br />
were hard due to both the impact of global crisis and<br />
decisions of the local authorities, however, the company<br />
that has been accumulating its capital – the team and<br />
its experience – for many years, managed to lay the<br />
solid foundation for the international development and<br />
now MV starts introducing novelties that will enable to<br />
maintain and strengthen the leadership.<br />
Shop with modern<br />
technologies<br />
According to the General Manager, MV drinks<br />
shop opened in September near the<br />
headquarters of the company is the leader‘s<br />
guarantee that the up-to-date and thorough<br />
information on the products is provided<br />
there, thus strengthening the culture of wine<br />
and knowledge of other spirits in the country.<br />
MV drinks consultants working in this shop<br />
can substantially extend the information by<br />
visual and sound information – computers<br />
and media screens serve for it, demonstrating<br />
the presentations of drinks producers and their<br />
products, the international independent drinks ratings<br />
as well as specialized websites.<br />
MV admits that the new concept shop will seek not<br />
only to provide a solid surplus value for experienced<br />
customers, but also attract the so-called youtube<br />
generation buyers, who are not yet considered an<br />
important group by wine sellers. “The fact that wine<br />
consumers are getting younger may be witnessed<br />
while visiting Vilnius wine-bars, therefore we want<br />
to show them that wine is not only fashion, but also<br />
knowledge”, – says MV wine expert Gintautas Jasinskas.<br />
Having engaged wine and spirits experts, MV constantly<br />
organizes various tastings. The events organized in the<br />
tastings hall fitted in the new shop will be varied by the<br />
exposition of items used in winemaking and production<br />
of other spirits.<br />
tHe new<br />
concept<br />
sHop<br />
pRovIdes<br />
suRplus<br />
vAlue to<br />
eXpeRIenced<br />
consumeRs<br />
And AttRActs<br />
YoutuBe<br />
geneRAtIon<br />
OUTLOOK / PROmO<br />
Drinks portfolios were strengthened<br />
Being the leader of spirits&tobacco distribution in<br />
Lithuania, this year, MV has expanded the drinks<br />
portfolios in its export markets, where the company<br />
has been operating since 2007.<br />
The portfolio expanded most in the company‘s<br />
biggest export market – Poland, where till the<br />
beginning of this year, MV represented the production<br />
of the Lithuanian producer Stumbras solely. This year,<br />
MV has started distributing Russian vodkas<br />
Beluga and Kalashnikov in Poland, which the<br />
company has already been representing in<br />
its other markets.<br />
The company‘s portfolio in Poland was also<br />
supplemented by whiskeys Scottish Leader,<br />
Bunnahabhain, Tobermory and Deanston,<br />
Angostura rums, Hine, Monnet cognacs, La<br />
Terre, Bianchi and Baron d’Arignac wines.<br />
The distribution of the latter wine has been<br />
started in Latvia as well. Here, as in Estonia<br />
and Lithuania, the brand Aquarel of Nestle<br />
mineral water has debuted this year.<br />
According to M. Cilcius, the company‘s<br />
export development is facilitated by 18 years knowhow<br />
with international brands and centralized<br />
management.<br />
As the recognition of company’s local performance, the<br />
Association of Lithuanian Trade Enterprises, that holds<br />
the contest „The Most Popular Product 2009“, ranked<br />
MV, the trade network of which comprises about 6<br />
thousand sales points in Lithuania, the most popular<br />
supplier of alcohol of 2009.<br />
MV, the total turnover of which in Lithuania and three<br />
export markets amounted to 189 million EUR in 2009,<br />
has ascended from the 38th to the 37th position in the<br />
list of the biggest Lithuanian enterprises according to<br />
the turnover. Whereas, the holding MG <strong>Baltic</strong>, to which<br />
MV belongs, has ascended from the 11th to the 9th<br />
position in this list and has found its way to the TOP-10<br />
of the biggest Lithuanian enterprises.<br />
BALTIC OUTLOOK / OCTOBER 2010 / 77
OUTLOOK / PROmO<br />
Surprise Me!:<br />
Restorans<br />
1221<br />
78 / AIRBALTIC.COM<br />
Jauniela, the heart of Riga’s<br />
Old Town, has been experiencing<br />
a revival since the quiet<br />
times of the recent financial<br />
unpleasantness. The narrow street<br />
now boasts some of the liveliest<br />
and hippest bars and restaurants<br />
in Old Town.<br />
Tucked away among some of the oldest buildings surviving on this<br />
ironically named street (Jauniela literally translates to ‘New Street’<br />
but is one of the oldest streets in Riga) is a tiny house that is higher<br />
than it is wide, just around the corner from the Riga Cathedral, the<br />
home of family owned restaurant – Restorans 1221.<br />
Restaurant’s has worked hard to present a menu that offers the best<br />
seasonal foods available without alienating customers by making it<br />
too exotic or expensive. Chef’s (Roberts Smilga) expertise has been<br />
and his expertise has been instrumental in bringing the new kitchen<br />
and staff up to a level that takes many new restaurant kitchens<br />
months, if not years to reach.<br />
The interior has been remodelled to take advantage of the simple<br />
and small rooms, the tan brickwork and natural wood finish. The<br />
ancient and winding staircase leads from floor to floor, and like some<br />
magic ladder finally deposits you on the rooftop terrace. You can feel
a history as well – the building is 300 years<br />
old. The small floor plan and the three levels,<br />
plus the rooftop terrace, means that you will<br />
most likely be eating your dinner upstairs in<br />
one of the small but cosy dining rooms, or<br />
outside if the weather is nice.<br />
The menu offerings at Restorans 1221<br />
are both familiar and at the same time<br />
unique. Traditional Latvian dishes are well<br />
represented; some prepared in a traditional<br />
way, such as the herring fillets with cottage<br />
cheese and boiled new potatoes (a Latvian<br />
staple), broiled salmon or carp steak and<br />
the ubiquitous pork chop, served in every<br />
Latvian restaurant. Other dishes offer a<br />
new twist to old favourites, like the beef<br />
filet fried in truffle oil, mashed sweet peas<br />
served instead of mashed potatoes, and<br />
scallops fried with mascarpone cheese and<br />
chilli pepper.<br />
I ordered the venison steak served with<br />
glazed chestnuts, pearl onions and a<br />
saffron-pear and black currant sauce.<br />
My dining partner had the fried salmon<br />
steak with cranberry icing, served with<br />
the mashed sweet peas and a seasonal<br />
mushroom sauce. Both of these dishes<br />
are based on a simple and traditional<br />
Latvian food, venison and salmon, but were<br />
uniquely prepared and complimented with<br />
offerings more interesting than the usual<br />
potatoes and salad.<br />
The salmon steak was thick with just the<br />
right moisture kept in, without being under<br />
or over-cooked. I enjoy the taste of salmon,<br />
and could have done without the cranberry<br />
glaze on top. My first surprise was the<br />
mashed sweet peas, something that I had<br />
never thought to try before. A wonderful<br />
alternative to mashed potatoes, I am sure<br />
it will be tried in my kitchen next summer,<br />
when we get fresh peas from the garden.<br />
The other surprise of my partner’s dinner<br />
was the seasonal mushroom sauce, which<br />
this night was chanterelles sautéed<br />
with sliced cherry tomatoes. The wild<br />
mushrooms with the sweet tomatoes were<br />
a delight to taste and another dish I will just<br />
have to try at home.<br />
Chef Smilga plans to change some of<br />
the dishes on the menu as they become<br />
seasonably available (or not available), and<br />
my curiosity has been piqued as to what he<br />
will come up with as the seasons change<br />
and other foods become available.<br />
My venison steak came served with a<br />
sautéed mixture of chestnuts and pearl<br />
them with the sweet pearl onions gave<br />
them the perfect taste, texture and<br />
moisture, as well as providing an autumn<br />
accent to the venison, which I naturally<br />
associate with the fall months of the year<br />
and forest tastes. The saffron-pear and black<br />
currant sauce provided a sweet repose. I<br />
found that the same attention to new ways<br />
of cooking traditional foods extended<br />
throughout the menu, in addition to the<br />
dishes that we enjoyed that night. All of the<br />
appetizers, soups, salads and vegetarian<br />
dishes, of which there were several, had the<br />
same interesting take, that made me want<br />
to try them all.<br />
The wine card, as well, had something<br />
to surprise me with. While not pages<br />
and pages of different wines, it offered<br />
something from every major wine region in<br />
the world, but of course with more offerings<br />
from European countries. Perhaps best<br />
of all, however, was that the wine prices<br />
at Restorans 1221 have been kept very<br />
reasonable, letting the customer get a good<br />
bottle of wine at an affordable price.<br />
We almost didn’t want to leave the cosy<br />
confines of the restaurant, having been lulled<br />
into a deep sense of comfort and satisfaction.<br />
A cup of coffee and the last sips of wine had<br />
us on our way, out onto the cobblestones,<br />
shiny from the recent drizzle of rain, so<br />
typical for a fall evening in the <strong>Baltic</strong>s.<br />
onions. I love chestnuts, and combining Riga, Jauniela 16 | phone: +371 67220171<br />
OUTLOOK / PROmO<br />
BALTIC OUTLOOK / OCTOBER 2010 / 79
fOOD & DRINK TExT: PETER WALsh, NORA TIRUmA| PHOTOS: PETER WALsh AND COURTEsY Of ViNa studija<br />
Restaurants, bars, cafés<br />
Season’s Delights<br />
Vīna studija, Riga<br />
Well known for having changed the drinking culture in Latvia’s<br />
capital by making exquisite wines more accessible to a broader<br />
public, Vīna studija (Wine Studio) has just expanded by opening a<br />
third bar/shop in Riga. The second was opened a while back in the<br />
coastal city of Liepāja.<br />
Until now, the only Riga Vīna studija was on the corner of<br />
Antonijas and Elizabetes Streets. It may seem strange, but until<br />
that location opened, fine wine was the exclusive and expensive<br />
province of a few purveyors to the Riga elite. The opening of the<br />
first bar/shop in 2008 (paradoxically, as Latvia plunged into an<br />
economic crisis) brought something new to the scene, with its<br />
wide selection, competitive prices and knowledgeable staff.<br />
The new, third location is on the ground floor of a central<br />
shopping mall, ensuring more accidental walk-in customers, but<br />
the proprietors have nevertheless managed to create an intimate<br />
environment that is unusual in such a shopping centre. Neither the<br />
shop nor the bar dominate – they flow together. The proprietors<br />
are, after all, masters of space – they’re architects. The signature<br />
elements of this Vīna studija are superb interior design and a menu<br />
that offers delicious appetizers to go with the wines.<br />
The Galerija Centrs location doesn’t differ very much from the<br />
others, as that wasn’t the point of opening another Wine Studio.<br />
According to the owners, the point was to expand so that the<br />
wine collection could grow and so that the prices could stay low.<br />
There are approximately 500 different wines from 16 countries<br />
available, with every significant wine-making region in the world<br />
represented.<br />
Galerija Centrs, Audēju iela 16<br />
Hours: Mon.–Sun. 10:00–22:00<br />
www.vinastudija.lv<br />
Fly to 6 cities<br />
in <strong>Baltic</strong> States<br />
with air<strong>Baltic</strong> from<br />
€46
(M)isterija, Vilnius<br />
Totorių is a quiet, anonymous Old<br />
Town street by day. By night it<br />
changes into one of the liveliest<br />
spots on Vilnius’ night life scene,<br />
with numerous bars strewn along<br />
it (and a fair number of smokers<br />
loitering outside them).<br />
(M)isterija is definitely one of<br />
the best of the bunch. It’s an<br />
unashamedly hedonistic place,<br />
where the young, trendy and upfor-it<br />
crowd tends to arrive late and<br />
leaves in time for breakfast. During<br />
the week, the owners get a crowd<br />
café metropolitain, Riga<br />
Café Metropolitain is a newcomer<br />
to the dining scene in Riga, a selfproclaimed<br />
“self-service restaurant”<br />
that opened this past summer. The<br />
soups, salad bar and warm entrées<br />
on offer here – with both meats<br />
and vegetarian items available at<br />
reasonable prices – along with the<br />
delightful desserts, seem to draw<br />
both passing tourists and locals.<br />
The concept of affordable food<br />
from a limited menu attracts a wide<br />
range of diners. Artists, lawyers,<br />
students and tourists all mix together.<br />
Although it is not known what<br />
in by hosting pub quizzes, karaoke<br />
nights and other kinds of mass<br />
entertainment. But on weekends,<br />
a good DJ and a copious flow of<br />
cocktails ensures that the place<br />
assumes a life of its own.<br />
The downstairs is cosy and pub-like,<br />
while the upstairs is decked out like<br />
some sort of opium lounge. An aboveaverage<br />
menu also makes (M)isterija a<br />
good place for a daytime meal.<br />
Totorių 18, Vilnius; Hours: Mon.–Thu.<br />
11:00–04:00, Fri. 11:00–06:00,<br />
Sat.18:00–06:00, Sun.18:00–04:00<br />
www.misterija.lt<br />
direction Café Metropolitain will take<br />
in the future, what’s now certain<br />
is that everyone leaves sated and<br />
satisfied after eating here, and no<br />
one feels overcharged afterwards.<br />
The location in the very epicentre<br />
of Riga’s gracious Art Nouveau<br />
district is promising. At the corner<br />
of Antonijas and Alberta Streets,<br />
the restaurant is on the main route<br />
for any exploration of the city’s<br />
architectural gems.<br />
Antonijas iela 13; Hours: Mon.–Thu.<br />
08:00 – 23:00, Fri. 08:00 until the last<br />
guest, Sat.10:00 until the last guest<br />
www.antonijasiela.lv<br />
clazz Restaurant & club<br />
The Old Town’s Clazz jazz club is a<br />
great place to hang out with friends.<br />
It is perfect for a quick drink and<br />
some light snacks, as well as for<br />
serious dining followed by great live<br />
music.<br />
Kohvik Komeet<br />
Chef Anni Arro is a rising star, whose<br />
cosy café, with its magnificent<br />
view on the 4th floor of the Solaris<br />
Centre, serves a wide variety of<br />
delicious cakes, pies, salads, snacks<br />
and hot dishes, all of which are<br />
reasonably priced. The cocktails –<br />
particularly the Margaritas – are a<br />
must, as you sit back and enjoy the<br />
panorama from the rooftop terrace.<br />
Solaris Keskus, Estonia pst. 9<br />
Hours: Mon.-Thu. 10:00-23:00<br />
Fri.-Sat. 10:00-24:00<br />
Sun. 10:00-21:00<br />
www.kohvikkomeet.ee<br />
air<strong>Baltic</strong> Hot spots<br />
in tallinn<br />
Laime Riisimäe,<br />
Area Sales Manager,<br />
Head of Representative<br />
Office in Estonia<br />
fOOD & DRINK<br />
This establishment offers everything<br />
in one: a cosy atmosphere, fun<br />
people, tasty cuisine and great<br />
wines, not to mention live jazz,<br />
blues and funky music six nights a<br />
week.<br />
Vana Turg 2 (opposite the Olde Hansa<br />
Restaurant)<br />
Hours: Sun.-Mon. 10:00-02:00,<br />
Tue.-Wed. 10:00-03:00, Thu. 10:00-<br />
04:00, Fri.-Sat. 10:00-05:00<br />
www.clazz.ee<br />
vapiano<br />
Vapiano is an ideal place for a quiet<br />
lunch or dinner, as well as to catch<br />
up with friends or to meet with<br />
business acquaintances. Vapiano’s<br />
two locales in Tallinn offer food<br />
desks of pasta, salads or pizza in a<br />
relaxed atmosphere. You will obtain<br />
quick and efficient service by a very<br />
friendly staff, representing very good<br />
value for your money.<br />
Vapiano is part of a fast casual pasta<br />
and pizza restaurant chain that is<br />
based in Germany. You can find it in<br />
Tallinn’s new Solaris Keskus and in<br />
the Foorum Keskus.<br />
Foorum Keskus, Hobujaama 10<br />
Hours: Mon.-Fri. 11:00-24:00,<br />
Sat.-Sun. 12:00-24:00<br />
Solaris Keskus, Estonia pst. 9<br />
Hours: Sun.-Thu. 11:00-23:00,<br />
Fri.-Sat. 11:00-24:00<br />
www.vapiano.de<br />
BALTIC OUTLOOK / OCTOBER 2010 / 81
fOOD BLOg<br />
82 / AIRBALTIC.COM<br />
It’s a strange feeling to sit in an elegant, tastefully<br />
decorated gourmet restaurant in the centre of Riga and<br />
talk about the art of farming and gardening. But if you<br />
ever have a conversation with any of Riga’s top chefs,<br />
that is precisely what you will find yourself doing.<br />
Kaspars Jansons is no exception. In fact, he was one of<br />
the pioneers of the movement, having trained for many<br />
years with the father of Latvian Slow Food, Mārtiņš<br />
Rītiņš. Since 2005 Jansons has been head chef at Bergs<br />
restaurant, on the ground floor of Hotel Bergs. Here he<br />
has crafted exquisite gourmet meals by mixing local<br />
products with exotic ingredients, preserving a quality of<br />
When I first started working at a Riga<br />
restaurant, world exploded into color<br />
service in tune with the five-star boutique hotel that the<br />
restaurant calls home.<br />
To hear Chef Jansons tell the tale of his rise to culinary<br />
greatness is to witness an important transition in<br />
Latvian cuisine. It mirrors a transition that the country<br />
itself made in the 1990s. Before he set foot in his<br />
mentor’s kitchen almost 15 years ago, Jansons’ culinary<br />
world was black and white. “The only foods I knew<br />
where the foods that Latvians grew in their gardens:<br />
pumpkins, potatoes, beets, carrots… But when I<br />
first started working at a Riga restaurant, that world<br />
exploded into color. For the first time I had access to<br />
a whole range of exotic ingredients. It was like seeing<br />
things in Technicolor for the first time.”<br />
TExT: RIhARDs KALNINs | PHOTOS: COURTEsY Of hOTEL BERgs<br />
Kaspars Jansons,<br />
Head Chef at Bergs<br />
restaurant<br />
Harvest<br />
Moon<br />
Jansons spent the next few years learning how<br />
to cook with exotic ingredients such as avocados,<br />
mangos, and curry. But after he had mastered the art<br />
of international cuisine, he grew jaded at what he saw<br />
as the oversaturation of plates at Latvian restaurants,<br />
what he calls “fusion confusion,” a haphazard mix of<br />
different styles and elements purely for the sake of<br />
mixing. “Blending all these different ingredients in a<br />
single dish was the culinary equivalent of showing off,” he<br />
recalls, “and often resulted in chefs forgetting the most<br />
important thing of all: flavor.”<br />
Jansons attempted to return to his culinary roots, and<br />
to restore flavor to Latvian cuisine. Fortunately, his<br />
experiments coincided with a movement on the part<br />
of Latvian farms to organize their activities and make it<br />
easier to distribute their products. “We can emphasize<br />
what I feel are the most important things about food:<br />
freshness, origins, and flavour,” he explains. Instead of<br />
presenting a “museum of Latvian country cuisine”, or<br />
merely presenting Latvian country food in an urban<br />
setting, he has brought Latvian country foods into the<br />
next century by making them palatable to our modernday<br />
tongue and showcasing the depth of their taste.<br />
In October, the restaurant’s menu will include dishes<br />
like Fillet of eel prepared in balsamic vinegar soy sauce<br />
tapioca with rice vinegar, pickled ginger and<br />
wasabi yogurt sauce; Sea trout fillet, tapioca porridge<br />
with rice vinegar, soy lemongrass broth and avocado<br />
purée; Suckling boneless pork chop, baby carrots, pearl<br />
barley-stuffed cabbage rolls, beer and stock reduction;<br />
and Raspberry-sorbet and white-chocolate parfait<br />
almond cookie and citrus fruit salad. BO
Madrid*<br />
* Seasonal flights.<br />
Hanover*<br />
Nice*<br />
Tromso*<br />
Umea<br />
Visby*<br />
Lulea<br />
Vaasa<br />
Belgrade*<br />
KITTILA / LEVI<br />
new from November<br />
Rovaniemi<br />
Bucharest<br />
Athens*<br />
Kuusamo*<br />
Pskov*<br />
Odessa*<br />
Arkhangelsk*<br />
Simferopol*<br />
Yerevan*<br />
Welcome<br />
aboard air<strong>Baltic</strong>!<br />
Beirut<br />
Amman<br />
Turku*<br />
86 air<strong>Baltic</strong> news / 88 Behind the scenes / 90 What’s That For?<br />
91 air<strong>Baltic</strong> Travel / 91 <strong>Baltic</strong>Miles / 94 Meals / 95 Inflight<br />
entertainment / 96 Fleet / 97 Flight map / 100 Contacts<br />
Baku*<br />
Oulu*<br />
air<strong>Baltic</strong><br />
Almaty*<br />
Dushanbe*
news<br />
NEWs<br />
86 / AIRBALTICTRAVEL.COM<br />
IN BRIEf<br />
1/ super skiing is<br />
simple with air<strong>Baltic</strong><br />
2/ select your seat in<br />
advance<br />
3/ stay connected<br />
with air<strong>Baltic</strong>card<br />
4/ school holiday<br />
specials<br />
1/ super skiing is simple<br />
with air<strong>Baltic</strong><br />
October is the perfect time to book a ski trip. The extensive air<strong>Baltic</strong><br />
flight network covering more than 70 cities includes many popular<br />
skiing destinations.<br />
For classic piste action, Munich, Zurich, Geneva, Milan and Vienna<br />
are all perfect gateways to the Alps. One way tickets between Riga<br />
and those cities start from EUR 50. Flights from Scandinavia and the<br />
CIS countries via Riga start from EUR 69.<br />
Winter sports enthusiasts looking for something new might like to<br />
try Lapland’s skiing resorts, which boast the longest snow coverage<br />
in Europe (November until April). air<strong>Baltic</strong> flies to Kittila, close to the<br />
skiing resort Levi and to Kuusamo, serving the Ruka resort. One way<br />
tickets from Tampere to Kittila and from Lappeenranta to Kuusamo<br />
start from EUR 33. Tickets from Riga to Kittila and Kuusamo start<br />
from EUR 56. Travelling from Germany or Russia via Riga, prices start<br />
from EUR 92.<br />
There are also some truly exotic skiing destinations to consider. Fly<br />
to Tbilisi in Georgia for easy access to the Caucasus mountain resort<br />
of Gudauri. Further afield, the ski resort of Chimgan in the Western<br />
Tian-Shan Mountains is within reach from Tashkent in Uzbekistan.<br />
And did you know that Lebanon has five ski resorts? Fly to Beirut<br />
to spend a day skiing in the mountains and the evening drinking
cocktails overlooking a warm Mediterranean beach.<br />
One way tickets from Riga start from EUR 78 to Tbilisi, EUR 134 to<br />
Beirut and EUR 156 to Tashkent. Tickets from Scandinavia via Riga<br />
start from EUR 127.<br />
Don’t forget to book your skiing equipment transportation<br />
together with the flight ticket at www.airbaltic.com – it will<br />
cost EUR 30 per one way trip (EUR 40 if you pay at the airport).<br />
Maximum weight allowance 32 kg.<br />
2/ select your<br />
seat in advance<br />
For people who want to<br />
know exactly where they will<br />
be sitting aboard the plane,<br />
air<strong>Baltic</strong> offers Seat Request<br />
to secure a preferred location<br />
and ensure that travelling<br />
companions can sit together.<br />
Seat Request is available on<br />
selected air<strong>Baltic</strong>-operated<br />
flights only. The cost of Seat<br />
3/ stay<br />
connected with<br />
air<strong>Baltic</strong>card<br />
The new air<strong>Baltic</strong>card Mobile<br />
3G/GPRS DATA card has been<br />
launched to provide internet<br />
access from your mobile phone<br />
or USB modem in 95 countries.<br />
3G/GPRS Internet via a phone or<br />
Request per flight segment<br />
in Economy Class starts<br />
from EUR 2 (depending<br />
on the requested seat and<br />
destination). For Economy<br />
Flex and Business Class<br />
travellers, this service is free<br />
of charge.<br />
Customers can request seats<br />
via www.airbaltic.com when<br />
making a reservation or at any<br />
air<strong>Baltic</strong> ticket office.<br />
USB modem allows you to read<br />
and send e-mails, follow news<br />
sites, update Facebook and<br />
Twitter accounts, play games or<br />
view photos and videos.<br />
This card allows you to save 50%<br />
on standard roaming mobile<br />
internet rates in the EU. Users<br />
pay for sent/received traffic<br />
rather than time spent online.<br />
Cards can be purchased aboard<br />
air<strong>Baltic</strong> flights or at air<strong>Baltic</strong><br />
ticket offices. The starting<br />
package including 10 EUR<br />
credit costs EUR 20, with<br />
recharges available via EUR 20<br />
vouchers.<br />
4/ school holiday specials<br />
NEWs<br />
air<strong>Baltic</strong> has prepared a special offer for families with children<br />
living in the <strong>Baltic</strong> states. During the autumn school holidays<br />
(23-29 October) we are offering special flight + hotel packages to<br />
four very popular family destinations: Paris, Hamburg, Berlin and<br />
Helsinki.<br />
There will be very special low fares offered to adults with children<br />
paying only taxes and surcharges (no flight ticket price) if a hotel<br />
is booked together with the flight. Hotels can be chosen according<br />
to individual preference. For example, 2 full days and 1 night with<br />
breakfast in a 3 star hotel in the centre of Berlin for 1 adult and<br />
1 child with flight tickets + checked in baggage all included will cost<br />
EUR 315.<br />
The offer is valid on flights from Riga, Tallinn and Vilnius and the<br />
booking should include at least one adult and one child (aged up to<br />
16 years). Maximum two children per reservation.<br />
The offer can be booked only at air<strong>Baltic</strong> ticket offices in Riga<br />
(Tērbatas 14), Vilnius (A.Vienuolio 12) and Tallinn (Estonia<br />
pst. 1/3).<br />
BALTIC OUTLOOK / OCTOBER 2010 / 87<br />
news
Behind the scenes<br />
NEWs<br />
Heavenly Service In the Skies<br />
TExT: NORA TIRUmA<br />
PHOTO: JANIs sALINs,<br />
f64<br />
88 / AIRBALTICTRAVEL.COM<br />
In-flight service is a field unto itself. To understand<br />
what it takes to meet passengers’ needs, Agita<br />
and her team spend a lot of time brainstorming<br />
and studying the competition. They occasionally<br />
dare to try wild ideas like those that await air<strong>Baltic</strong><br />
passengers in October.<br />
On my way to see you, I saw an airplane take off<br />
and thought about how the lion’s share of what a<br />
passenger sees in flight is your responsibility.<br />
That’s true. We have three priorities: safety, punctuality<br />
and service. Safety is the number one priority, but what<br />
we do to ensure a safe flight is mostly invisible to the<br />
passenger. Although service is the third priority, it is<br />
usually the main thing that a passenger notices, and<br />
how he or she rates an airline often depends on it. That<br />
is the responsibility of my team.<br />
What are an in-flight service manager’s duties?<br />
I have to ensure that passengers get everything they<br />
expect – and more. This work has a visible side – serving<br />
food and sundries on board – as well as everything<br />
that takes place behind the scenes: planning, following<br />
the rules of aviation, purchasing and logistics. All of<br />
this falls within my realm of responsibility, from the<br />
Agita once ran a<br />
restaurant and music<br />
club, but for the last<br />
six years she has been<br />
working at air<strong>Baltic</strong> and<br />
found that providing<br />
superb in-flight service is<br />
a no less demanding task.<br />
Agita Krastiņa,<br />
air<strong>Baltic</strong> In-flight<br />
Service Manager<br />
special equipment used to stock the airplane to the<br />
menu, the wine selection, the serving dishes and their<br />
arrangement on the serving trays.<br />
The last and most important phase is that of the flight<br />
attendants – the impression that they leave upon the<br />
passengers. We invest a great deal in developing the<br />
hospitality and communications skills of our staff.<br />
The passenger might think that very little goes into a<br />
short flight, but countless hours and many intertwined<br />
businesses are involved.<br />
Inflight movies are also your responsibility. Of all of<br />
your duties, which do you like the most?<br />
I thought about that when waiting for you to interview<br />
me. None of my days are like any other, really. It’s a<br />
very creative position – my planner is always full, one<br />
project leading to another. What I love the most is the<br />
creative phase, when an idea is in bud and still being<br />
worked out. There’s a great deal of responsibility in this.<br />
The experience of thousands of people [in July, air<strong>Baltic</strong><br />
served 367 000 passengers at the Riga, Tallinn and<br />
Vilnius airports alone – ed.] is dependent on how my<br />
team organizes their flights. It’s the creativity involved<br />
that I find inspiring, and that helps me whenever there<br />
are difficulties or complaints.
Satisfying the needs of customers is the main focus<br />
of your job. Where is it harder to do so, in the air or<br />
on the ground?<br />
Service is service, whether on the ground or in the<br />
sky. I used to run a restaurant and music club, and I<br />
must say that the service industry is complicated, no<br />
matter where you’re providing a service. There are as<br />
many views on what service ought to be as there are<br />
customers!<br />
Aviation adds complexity to the business because<br />
there are so many limitations: safety considerations,<br />
restrictions on food and the limited size of the airplane.<br />
People sometimes ask why the menu lacks this or that<br />
item. The fact is that temperature and pressure increase<br />
safety risks, so the requirements for producers and<br />
purveyors are stricter than they are on the ground.<br />
In its strict requirements for<br />
safety, hygiene and other factors,<br />
in-flight food falls somewhere<br />
between food service on the<br />
ground and what’s eaten by<br />
astronauts<br />
The demands of in-flight food service actually derive<br />
from space travel and NASA. In its strict requirements<br />
for safety, hygiene and other factors, in-flight food falls<br />
somewhere between food service on the ground and<br />
what’s eaten by astronauts.<br />
What direction is in-flight service taking these<br />
days? Is the selection expanding to the point<br />
where passengers will soon feel like they’re at a<br />
convenience store on the ground while they’re<br />
flying?<br />
In terms of imagination and creativity, that is indeed<br />
the direction we’re heading for. We have some exciting<br />
ideas that won’t escape your notice when we try them!<br />
We’re still limited by the confines of space, and also by<br />
time, as some flights are quite brief.<br />
You’ve been on the air<strong>Baltic</strong> team for almost six<br />
years. Have the passengers that the airline carries<br />
NEWs<br />
changed during this time?<br />
The changes in the last few years have been dramatic.<br />
We used to be able to focus on the Latvian market<br />
and some foreign passengers. Since we switched our<br />
focus from point-to-point service to transit service, the<br />
nationalities of our passengers have become far more<br />
diverse.<br />
People fly from Finland to Kazakhstan through Riga,<br />
for example. Many of them speak neither Latvian nor<br />
Russian – and some don’t know English, either. This<br />
presents a new challenge for our team – trying to<br />
communicate in the midst of such diversity! We used to<br />
write long, eloquent texts about the delicious items on<br />
our menu. A year ago, we shifted the focus to mouthwatering<br />
images instead.<br />
In your experience, what sells well on flights – and<br />
what doesn’t?<br />
<strong>Air</strong>lines all over the world offer cosmetics, perfumes,<br />
watches and other brand-name goods. What’s on offer<br />
is quite similar, whether you are flying an Asian or a<br />
European airline. We tried this for a time and the results<br />
were not very encouraging. That was partly because we<br />
couldn’t offer better prices than those on the ground,<br />
due to the fact that we had to add VAT.<br />
So we changed direction – the last pages of our menu<br />
now offer original souvenirs that are characteristic of<br />
the <strong>Baltic</strong> countries, such as silk scarves, purses and<br />
other creations by <strong>Baltic</strong> artists and craftsmen. Our flight<br />
attendants came up with this idea first, pointing out<br />
that passengers wanted souvenirs that are not overly<br />
expensive and have something to do with the <strong>Baltic</strong>s.<br />
You mentioned something about exciting, new<br />
ideas. What can we expect this autumn?<br />
If everything goes according to plan, then we will have<br />
special offers each month, beginning in October. These<br />
will be either unique items that one rarely sees in our<br />
market, or quite ordinary things that we can offer at<br />
extremely low prices. One of these items may be a<br />
television set, for example.<br />
Didn’t you just say that the limited space in an<br />
airplane puts restrictions on what one can offer?<br />
We don’t plan to transport any television sets on our<br />
planes! One will be able to make a down payment in<br />
flight and the item will be delivered to the passenger at<br />
home. The sort of special prices I’m talking about would<br />
beat even internet shop prices! BO<br />
BALTIC OUTLOOK / OCTOBER 2010 / 89<br />
Behind the scenes
What’s That for?<br />
NEWs<br />
90 / AIRBALTICTRAVEL.COM<br />
DOORS<br />
As the old joke says: Did you<br />
know they have invented<br />
something that lets you walk<br />
through walls? It’s called a<br />
door! There’s much more to an<br />
airliner’s door than a hole in a<br />
wall though – particularly when<br />
that ‘hole’ is all that separates you<br />
from high altitudes, incredible<br />
windspeeds and temperatures<br />
of -50 C.<br />
You’ve probably noticed how thick<br />
the passenger doors are when you get aboard your<br />
air<strong>Baltic</strong> flight. They need to be strong for several reasons:<br />
to maintain the structural integrity of the fuselage, to<br />
cope with huge pressure differences inside and outside<br />
the cabin, to create an airtight seal and to insulate against<br />
heat loss.<br />
Cabin doors on most commercial airlines (including the<br />
Boeing 737s and 757s of the air<strong>Baltic</strong> fleet) are called<br />
“plug” doors because – like the plug in your bathtub –<br />
they are bigger then the holes they fill. In the closed<br />
position the door is physically larger than the external<br />
opening. During opening, the door first moves inward,<br />
then rotates outward and forward. Each door is held in<br />
the open position by a “gust lock.” The gust lock drops<br />
into a latch on the upper hinge arm as the door nears its<br />
forward limit of travel. Lifting the gust lock lever latches<br />
in the up position and releasing the hinge arm, allows the<br />
door to be closed.<br />
This simple but clever mechanism means that no matter<br />
how hard someone pushes against the door from inside,<br />
they would be unable to open it, as they wouldn’t be able<br />
to force it through the smaller opening.<br />
Hollywood films sometimes suggest it is possible to<br />
open an airliner’s door in flight, but this is impossible in<br />
a pressurized cabin. The higher pressure inside means<br />
the “plug” is being pushed into the door opening, so only<br />
after depressurization can the door be opened.<br />
In other words, the doors are not only larger than the door<br />
opening, but they are also sealed shut by the pressurised<br />
cabin. As the cabin only becomes pressurised when the<br />
aircraft is moving, the doors can be opened with ease<br />
when the plane is parked on the runway, as there is no<br />
pressure difference between the inside and outside.<br />
With the doors shut, at the bottom of the doors a so-called<br />
“girt bar” is engaged. When you hear announcements<br />
about “arming” the doors, this is what is being referred to.<br />
With the doors armed, the emergency slides are ready to<br />
deploy automatically in the event of an emergency landing.<br />
The smaller emergency doors located behind the wings<br />
on each side of the airplane operate on a similar principle<br />
to the main passenger doors. They are also plug-type<br />
doors but have no hinges and instead are designed to<br />
be used just once and removed completely. Pulling the<br />
door-operating handle up lifts the door inward and upward<br />
and opens a pressure relief mechanism. The door can<br />
then be pushed out through the door frame and the slide<br />
automatically deploys and inflates. In front of passenger<br />
doors are the small service doors which used for loading<br />
and unloading food and drinks before and after each flight.<br />
Incidentally, have you ever seen doors on the right-hand<br />
side of an aircraft? Probably not because nearly all airliner<br />
and gate designs have passenger doors on the left and<br />
cargo doors plus refuelling points etc on the right. So<br />
while you might land at an airport where they drive on<br />
the left or the right, you will always disembark on the left!
air<strong>Baltic</strong>Travel.com<br />
Your All-in-One Travel Portal<br />
air<strong>Baltic</strong>Travel.com is the online travel<br />
portal where you can book everything<br />
for your holiday or business trip, from<br />
flights and hotels and other additional<br />
services to theme-based packages<br />
specially tailored for you.<br />
Package your travel<br />
for smart savings<br />
Planning a flight and know you will need a hotel at your<br />
destination too? Why not book both in a single package at<br />
air<strong>Baltic</strong>Travel.com? You could immediately save at least 20% off<br />
the price you pay when booking a flight and hotel separately!<br />
This way you’ll get return flights with air<strong>Baltic</strong> or a partner<br />
airline and all applicable airport taxes, surcharges, and hotel<br />
accommodation for the selected number of nights – all in one<br />
package! You can also add a car rental service to the package<br />
and benefit from our special agreement prices from AVIS. Plus,<br />
when traveling in Economy class you get one piece of checked-in<br />
luggage per person included in the price, instead of paying for<br />
each bag, as you would if purchasing a flight separately.<br />
And we guarantee our prices are absolutely the cheapest. If you<br />
do find a cheaper flight + hotel package rate, as specified in our<br />
terms and conditions, we will compensate the difference.<br />
To make things easier, you can spread travel costs over several<br />
payments. Just choose our new partial payment option when<br />
booking a package at air<strong>Baltic</strong>Travel.com, and conveniently split<br />
your payment into two or four parts.<br />
Booking just a hotel?<br />
Pay on arrival!<br />
What if you’ve already bought your flight ticket or have alternative<br />
transport? At air<strong>Baltic</strong>Travel.com, you can book just a hotel when<br />
that’s all you need.<br />
Choose from 90 000 available hotels, from all around the world!<br />
And with plenty of good quality photos, recommendations from<br />
other travelers and the option to search Google maps for the<br />
perfect location, the search is made easy.<br />
Finally, here’s the best part: anytime you book just hotel<br />
accommodations, pay only upon arrival at the hotel and there is<br />
no reservation fee!<br />
For questions & inquiries, please contact air<strong>Baltic</strong>Travel.com call<br />
centre +371 67229696.
NEWs<br />
Discover <strong>Baltic</strong>Miles<br />
loyalty programme!<br />
With many travel, telecommunications,<br />
financial and retail partners, <strong>Baltic</strong>Miles is a<br />
highly rewarding loyalty programme offering<br />
you many opportunities to earn and spend<br />
miles.<br />
You can join <strong>Baltic</strong>Miles free of charge<br />
regardless of age or country of origin and<br />
92 / AIRBALTICTRAVEL.COM<br />
earn valuable miles every time you fly<br />
air<strong>Baltic</strong> or purchase products or services<br />
from an ever growing list of partners.<br />
Afterwards, exchange your collected miles<br />
for free flights to more than 70 destinations,<br />
or choose from an extensive list of leisure<br />
activities and exciting rewards at <strong>Baltic</strong>Miles<br />
shop.<br />
Exclusive benefits for<br />
frequent flyers<br />
As part of the <strong>Baltic</strong>Miles programme, air<strong>Baltic</strong><br />
recognizes and rewards those customers who<br />
have flown an exceptional amount. The more<br />
frequently you travel, the sooner you will<br />
advance to higher membership levels, each<br />
giving you greater privileges (like priority checkin,<br />
access to business lounges and free baggage<br />
allowance), and you will earn more miles too.<br />
Join today<br />
Register online at www.balticmiles.com<br />
or fill in the application form you will find<br />
onboard air<strong>Baltic</strong> flights or at air<strong>Baltic</strong> ticket<br />
offices. After registration, you will receive a<br />
confirmation e-mail and your membership<br />
card in the post.<br />
Remember to present your personal<br />
membership number every time you book<br />
a flight and to show your card at check-in<br />
and whenever you use <strong>Baltic</strong>Miles partner<br />
products and services.<br />
Earn miles every time you fill up at<br />
Neste petrol stations in the <strong>Baltic</strong>s!<br />
For over 60 years, Finnish corporation Neste Oil has been an oil<br />
refining and marketing company. Its subsidiaries Neste Latvija,<br />
Neste Estonia and Neste Lietuva became the first western<br />
companies in those markets. Across the <strong>Baltic</strong>s at over 150 petrol<br />
stations spread in all major cities and along main routes, Neste<br />
offers 95 and 98 gasoline, as well as diesel.<br />
To earn miles at Neste, enter your <strong>Baltic</strong> Miles card in the card reader<br />
at the pump and choose your desired payment method – or simply<br />
pay with your <strong>Baltic</strong> Miles Master Card and earn on top 1 mile per<br />
every 1 LVL/23 EEK/5 LTL spent on the purchase.<br />
Many reasons to choose Neste petrol stations:<br />
• Earn 1 mile per 1 litre of fuel;<br />
• Over 150 automatic Neste petrol stations across the <strong>Baltic</strong>s;<br />
• Use any payment method – cash or card;<br />
• Reliable partner offering best price to quality ratio.<br />
For more information please see www.neste.lt; www.neste.ee;<br />
www.neste.lv
ECCO: step into a<br />
world of comfort<br />
ECCO, a leading global shoe brand<br />
combining style and comfort, has built<br />
its success on uncompromising quality,<br />
innovative technology and the design<br />
philosophy, “the shoe must follow the<br />
foot”. ECCO footwear is synonymous<br />
with top level Scandinavian design.<br />
Discover shoes that look and feel great<br />
on your feet. ECCO carefully crafts its<br />
shoes throughout the entire production<br />
process. That’s why ECCO has earned a<br />
global reputation for good quality and<br />
smart taste in shoes that put comfort<br />
first. Its products are found in 4,000<br />
branded sales locations in over 90<br />
countries around the world.<br />
<strong>Baltic</strong>Miles members earn 10 miles<br />
in any ECCO store in the <strong>Baltic</strong>s when<br />
spending 1 LVL in Latvia, 5 LTL in<br />
Lithuania, or 25 EEK in Estonia.<br />
Discover ECCO at www.ecco.com<br />
<strong>Baltic</strong>miles shop<br />
EARN miles<br />
Take full advantage of Bonus Deals – you<br />
can turbo boost your miles balance. Check<br />
out how one purchase can earn you<br />
thousands of miles.<br />
<strong>Baltic</strong>Miles gives you up to 40% extra miles<br />
on top of the great deals for this month.<br />
BURBERRY Sport EDT Men 50 ml<br />
Pay 169 EUR<br />
Earn 6 132 miles<br />
Pay 25 EUR<br />
Earn 583 miles<br />
Grenardi Pearl necklace 53 cm<br />
Pay 332 EUR<br />
Earn 4 527 miles<br />
Pay 52 EUR<br />
Earn 1 094 miles<br />
VARIS Town Builder 107 parts<br />
UMF - Brad 2 BMX 09 bike<br />
sPEND miles<br />
NEWs<br />
Head to www.balticmiles.com where you can earn miles by purchasing things you really<br />
want or you can also spend your collected miles on different goods and experiences.<br />
When you’re ready to spend miles, our<br />
online shopping centre offers a broad<br />
selection of gifts, goods and experiences<br />
from over 400 vendors and reliable<br />
delivery to over 200 countries.<br />
Prestigio iPod<br />
Speaker PIS4<br />
Save 24%<br />
6 365 miles<br />
47 EUR<br />
Stenders Romantic Set<br />
Save 42%<br />
7 022 miles<br />
53 EUR<br />
4 749 miles<br />
36 EUR<br />
LEGO Star Wars Droid Tri-Fighter<br />
2 882 miles<br />
22 EUR<br />
Blomus Wall Fireplace 'Chimo'<br />
Braun<br />
MobileShave<br />
M90<br />
121 900 miles<br />
932 EUR<br />
BALTIC OUTLOOK / OCTOBER 2010 / 93
meals<br />
NEWs<br />
MEALS<br />
After enjoying an in-flight Barth Kabinett<br />
riesling, an air<strong>Baltic</strong> business class passenger<br />
entered some keywords in the world’s<br />
biggest online search engine and found<br />
the producers of the wine, which the<br />
winemakers should be delivering to Spain<br />
any day now. This sort of feedback brings joy<br />
to the hearts of the air<strong>Baltic</strong> Inflight Service<br />
team, because the job of selecting two new<br />
white and two red wines every season is<br />
not an easy one. The choice must be pithy<br />
and precise. For starters, there is limited<br />
space on board. Moreover, not every wine<br />
will be divine ten kilometres up, because<br />
pressurized, low humidity cabin air can<br />
prevent the taste from fully revealing itself.<br />
wine on air<strong>Baltic</strong> flights:<br />
Consumption in business class ~ 1100 litres*<br />
Consumption in economic class ~ 4100 litres*<br />
air<strong>Baltic</strong>’s bestsellers: Chardonnay La Baume<br />
2007 and Chinon Lacheteau 2007<br />
* June – August<br />
Source: LSG Sky Chefs<br />
October–wine–fest on air<strong>Baltic</strong><br />
94 / AIRBALTICTRAVEL.COM<br />
air<strong>Baltic</strong> changes its wine list every season<br />
to suit the selected food menu and<br />
passenger demand. This will be the second<br />
consecutive October marked by air<strong>Baltic</strong> as<br />
“Germany month”, and one of the four wines<br />
comes from the Rhine Valley winemakers<br />
Barth (Barth 2009 Riesling Kabinett Trocken<br />
Rheingau). Barth is a family–run estate<br />
located right in the middle of the historic<br />
region of Rheingau, only a few kilometres<br />
south of the world-renowned cloister of<br />
Eberbach.<br />
The estate spans over 18 hectares, focusing<br />
on Riesling, Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc and<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon, some of which<br />
have been winning awards. In recent<br />
Business Class / On all air<strong>Baltic</strong><br />
flights, business class passengers will<br />
enjoy a complimentary full meal including<br />
appetizer, hot main course, dessert (except<br />
flights shorter than one hour, where snacks<br />
are served instead), and a wide range of<br />
beverages and alcoholic drinks.<br />
On flights lasting longer than three hours,<br />
we offer a double service—first a full hot<br />
meal served with beverages, followed by a<br />
snack consisting of coffee or tea and a small<br />
dessert. On night flights with early morning<br />
arrival, we provide a “wake-up” service with<br />
tea or coffee and a light breakfast.<br />
Economy Class / Economy<br />
class passengers can purchase a selection<br />
of snacks, hot meals (on flights longer<br />
than 1 h. 30 min.) and beverages from the<br />
onboard menu cards. To save money and<br />
time, preorder your meal before the flight,<br />
either at the air<strong>Baltic</strong> website or ticket<br />
offices, at least 24 hours before departure.<br />
This will guarantee that your choice will be<br />
available, and that you’ll be served first.<br />
years German wines have enjoyed a real<br />
Renaissance, and as their prestige and<br />
popularity return, air<strong>Baltic</strong> has become a<br />
Barth client, ordering stocks of the small<br />
bottles specially made for airlines. Another<br />
reason why you can enjoy Barth wines on<br />
board air<strong>Baltic</strong> is their innovative approach<br />
to production. They have experimented<br />
with maturing Riesling in small French oak<br />
barrels, called “singularis”, and they were<br />
the first to plant a typical Bordeaux cultivar<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon in the Rheingau Valley.<br />
Exceptional know-how as well as many<br />
years of experience, gentle processing and<br />
innovative technology has created this<br />
international success story. Zum Wohl!
Robin Hood Adventure, drama<br />
Cast: Vanessa Redgrave, William Hurt, Russell<br />
Crowe, Cate Blanchett<br />
Academy Award-winner Russell Crowe stars<br />
in a captivating reimagining of the popular<br />
mythology that has in spired generation after<br />
generation of adventurers. The legendary<br />
figure of 13 th century England, along with his<br />
band of marauders, confronts corruption in<br />
the local village of Nottingham and leads an<br />
uprising against the crown that will forever<br />
alter the balance of world power.<br />
Sex and The City 2<br />
comedy, romantic drama<br />
Cast: Sarah Jessica Parker, Kim Cattrall, Kristin<br />
Davis, Cynthia Nixon<br />
Carrie, Samantha, Charlotte and Miranda finally<br />
have everything the ladies ever wished for, but it<br />
wouldn’t be “Sex and the City” if life didn’t hold<br />
a few more surprises questioning the traditional<br />
roles of marriage, motherhood and more. This<br />
time- far away from New York whisking the four<br />
away to one of the most luxurious, exotic and<br />
vivid places on earth – Abu Dhabi.<br />
Shrek Forever After<br />
cartoon, family<br />
Voices: Antonio Banderas, Cameron Diaz ,<br />
Eddie Murphy and others<br />
After challenging an evil dragon, rescuing a<br />
beautiful princess and saving the kingdom Shrek<br />
longs for the good old days he felt like a “real<br />
ogre” and is duped into signing a pact with the<br />
evil Rumpelstiltskin. Finding himself in a twisted,<br />
alternate version of Far Far Away it’s up to Shrek to<br />
restore his world and reclaim his one True Love.<br />
INFLIGHT<br />
ENTERTAINMENT<br />
On flights longer than 2 hours 30 minutes,<br />
passengers can rent portable entertainment<br />
devices pre-loaded with movies, cartoons, serials,<br />
music and games. Now also available on flights<br />
from/to Vilnius!<br />
TV serials: Dr. House | 30 Rock | The Office | Friends | Glee<br />
For kids: My gym partner's a monkey | Looney Tunes<br />
(new episodes) | The Batman (new episodes) |<br />
The Simpsons | Family Guy | Wallace and Gromit |<br />
Camp Lazio<br />
NEWs<br />
Edge of Darkness<br />
drama, thriller<br />
Cast: Mel Gibson; Danny Huston, Shawn Robert<br />
Thomas Craven is a veteran homicide<br />
detective for the Boston Police Department<br />
and a single father. When his only child, is<br />
murdered on the steps of his home, everyone<br />
assumes that he was the target and embarks<br />
on a mission to find out about his daughter’s<br />
secret life and her killing. His investigation leads<br />
him into a dangerous, looking- glass world of<br />
corporate cover-ups, government collusion.<br />
From Paris with Love<br />
thriller<br />
Cast: John Travolta, Jonathan Rhys Meyers,<br />
Kasia Smutniak and Richard Durden<br />
A personal aide to the U.S. Ambassador in<br />
France, James Reese has an enviable life in<br />
Paris, but his real passion is his side job as a<br />
low-level operative for the CIA. So when he’s<br />
offered his first seniorlevel assignment, he can’t<br />
believe his good luck – until he meets his new<br />
partner, Charlie Wax.<br />
Alice in Wonderland<br />
fantasy, Adventure<br />
Cast: Johnny Depp, Anne Hathaway, Helena<br />
Bonham Carter, Crispin Glover<br />
Alice returns to the whimsical world she first<br />
encountered as a young girl, reuniting with<br />
her childhood friends: the White Rabbit,<br />
Tweedledee and Tweedledum, the Dormouse,<br />
the Caterpillar, the Cheshire Cat, and of<br />
course, the Mad Hatter. Alice embarks on a<br />
fantastical journey to find her true destiny and<br />
the Red Queen’s reign of terror.<br />
BALTIC OUTLOOK / OCTOBER 2010 / 95<br />
entertainment
fleet<br />
NEWs<br />
Boeing 757-200<br />
Boeing 737-500 Q400 Nextgen fokker 50<br />
Number of aircraft 7<br />
Number of seats 120<br />
Max take-off weight 58 metric tons<br />
Max payload 13.5 metric tons<br />
Length 29.79 m<br />
Wing span 28.9 m<br />
Cruising speed 800 km/h<br />
Commercial range 3500 km<br />
Fuel consumption 3000 l/h<br />
Engine CFM56-3<br />
96 / AIRBALTICTRAVEL.COM<br />
3<br />
76<br />
29.6 metric tons<br />
8.6 metric tons<br />
32.83 m<br />
28.42 m<br />
667 km/h<br />
2084 km<br />
1074 l/h<br />
P&W 150A<br />
Boeing 737-300<br />
Number of aircraft 8<br />
Number of seats 142/144/146<br />
Max take-off weight 63 metric tons<br />
Max payload 14.2 metric tons<br />
Length 32.18 m<br />
Wing span 31.22 m<br />
Cruising speed 800 km/h<br />
Commercial range 3500 km<br />
Fuel consumption 3000 l/h<br />
Engine CFM56-3C-1<br />
Number of aircraft 10<br />
Number of seats 46/50/52<br />
Max take-off weight 20.8 metric tons<br />
Max payload 4.9 metric tons<br />
Length 25.3 m<br />
Wing span 29.0 m<br />
Cruising speed 520 km/h<br />
Commercial range 1300 km<br />
Fuel consumption 800 l/h<br />
Engine P&W 125 B