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CARING FOR HANDKNITS • BEGGING • THE TYPICAL TUDOR • LOST IN ALASKA<br />
ISSUE 7<br />
SHE RAGGEDY • YOUR DARKEST DRESS • DROPPED STITCH – COPYRIGHT
Unless otherwise indicated the information,<br />
articles, artwork, patterns and photography<br />
published in <strong>BLOCKED</strong> Magazine are subject<br />
to copyright ©2023 <strong>BLOCKED</strong> Magazine.<br />
All rights reserved.<br />
<strong>BLOCKED</strong> Magazine permits the online<br />
distribution of the magazine in it’s entirety.<br />
Distribution of any of the contents of this<br />
magazine are for purposes of sale or resale<br />
is strictly prohibited.<br />
Editor<br />
Neil of Uknitted Kingdom<br />
For all enquiries:<br />
blockedmagazine@gmx.com<br />
Cover Photography<br />
Whitefibers<br />
Illustrations<br />
Uknitted Kingdom<br />
Contributors:<br />
The Laziest Knitter<br />
Christine Smith<br />
Yelena of Scythia<br />
Uknitted Kingdom<br />
D. Marie Prokop<br />
Patterns:<br />
Uknitted Kingdom<br />
Proofers:<br />
Cézanne Pellett<br />
Laura Neubauer<br />
Denise Pettus<br />
Design and layouts:<br />
BS Studio
Dear ‘Knitfluencers’,<br />
Much harm has befallen the knitting/crochet/fibre world in the last five or six years. From the<br />
mass-labelling of good, decent people as racist ‘white supremacists’ and the destruction of individuals’<br />
lives, to the constant policing of our words and our products/projects.<br />
Many of you have stood by, quietly, supported, or in some cases, even joined in or led, with<br />
the bullying and nastiness. This is no longer tolerable.<br />
In the name of protecting the self-declared ‘marginalized’ you have directly or indirectly marginalized<br />
thousands of others. The fate of some of the targets of harassment, hatred, threats, and<br />
ostracization has been far, far more harmful than any of the imagined ’microaggressions’ described<br />
by their attackers.<br />
Fighting racism with racism is not acceptable.<br />
Fighting fascism with fascism is not acceptable.<br />
Fighting white supremacy with black supremacy is not acceptable.<br />
Fighting patriarchy with matriarchy is not acceptable.<br />
Fighting toxic masculinity with toxic femininity is not acceptable.<br />
Our plea to you is to ’stand in the gap’ between the oppressors and the oppressed. Use your<br />
considerable influence to unite rather than divide people. One word from you could have helped<br />
Kristy Glass, Nathan Taylor, Kate Davies, Maria Tusken, and all the others that you watched be figuratively<br />
burned as witches.<br />
As with all the witch-hunts of the past; history does not remember the witchfinders fondly.<br />
You may think that buying gifts for the bullies will gain you favour for now. You may think that<br />
constantly acknowledging their presence in your live broadcasts will protect you. Enjoy your precarious<br />
privilege, earned from the pain of others, while you still can. Someday, soon, you will be<br />
cancelled by those you fete. You are only ever one poorly chosen word or one inadvertent microaggression<br />
away from destruction; subject to the whims of your ’friends’. When that happens we<br />
will be here for you, but it won’t be easy. Many will remember that you were collaborators as they<br />
searched the virtual village looking for transgressors.<br />
Before it’s too late, stand up. Speak out. Do the work. Do better. Use your influence for good<br />
in the name of good, not for evil masquerading as good.<br />
Appeasing the few at the expense of the many has never been a wise action.<br />
Do the right thing.<br />
Yours faithfully,<br />
The blocked and the cancelled.<br />
3
Dear Reader,<br />
All together now, “Happy birthday to Blocked. Happy birthday to Blocked…”<br />
Can you believe it’s already Blocked Magazine’s first birthday?<br />
For me, 2022 sped before my eyes, yet in some ways, it feels like I’ve been working on Blocked for years!<br />
I’d like to take this opportunity to thank every person that has contributed to the content, supported financially via<br />
Patreon, and supported by reading, and continuing to read, each issue.<br />
In January 2022 Blocked was a solo project (albeit with several contributors). Now, Blocked is very much a team<br />
project. With the superb graphic designer, BS Designs, three unwavering proofreaders (Denise, Cezanne, and Laura),<br />
and soon, two in-house tech editors.<br />
Considering none of the contributors receive financial compensation for their work and “emotional labor” one<br />
might wonder where the Patreon donations go. The vast majority of the modest monthly amount is reserved to cover<br />
the overheads. Yumpu’s (the magazine platform) annual fee, ongoing monthly Streamyard subscription (for the<br />
Blocked Vlog), Stitch Fiddle (to create the dishident patterns), and Microsoft 365 (Office). There have also been one-off<br />
purchases (microphone, audio interface, earpiece) for the vlog. The cost of the book (reviewed in this issue) was<br />
purchased from Patreon funds. In 2023 Blocked will be sponsoring two knitters to undertake the TKGA Tech Editing<br />
qualification. This will benefit the magazine and the wider Blocked knitting community, as there are so few tech editors<br />
available to us. One self-imposed financial rule I follow: before spending patron funds I consider<br />
first if it helps create an issue/episode of Blocked, and second if it supports a person or business<br />
(yarn dyer, designer, reader, etc) within our community. In the interest of transparency<br />
I have purchased yarn for patterns that I’ve written for Blocked from the Patreon funds,<br />
the finished items have since been for my personal use or given away to my friends<br />
and family.<br />
The first issue was created in response to the bullies in the fibre world. In this<br />
issue, I revisit one of those bullies, Adella Colvin of Lola Bean Yarn Co., by providing<br />
a link to the complete transcript of her attack on Kristy Glass. This transcript<br />
is a true and accurate record of her own words. However, I have used [parentheses]<br />
for clarification or if I was unable to transcribe accurately or to describe<br />
relevant nonverbal cues. The transcript contains a lot of profanity. I have<br />
placed asterisks over some of the letters of those words. I chose not to put the<br />
transcript into the magazine in the form of an article because it is so unpleasant.<br />
This way readers can choose whether to click on the link to read her<br />
words or whether to ignore the link and continue reading the magazine.<br />
Some may question why I included it at all. Prior to release, and in the aftermath,<br />
Adella and her supporters claimed that I had used her words out of<br />
context. This addresses that accusation.<br />
I hope the Blocked Magazine Patreon account will attract more donors. I<br />
hope, one day, Blocked will be in a position where contributors can be compensated<br />
for their work. Until then, Blocked can only continue with the generous<br />
contributions from patrons, and the work provided by writers, artists, and<br />
designers. In order for Blocked to celebrate future birthdays please consider becoming<br />
a patron by going to https://www.patreon.com/BlockedMagazine.<br />
Yours faithfully,<br />
Neil<br />
4
y the Laziest Knitter<br />
The Lazy Knitter’s Guide to<br />
Handknits<br />
CARING<br />
FOR<br />
It’s not uncommon for a person who has spent hundreds<br />
of hours mastering the art of knitting and hundreds<br />
of dollars on high-end yarn to struggle with<br />
washing and caring for their hand knits. We’ve all seen<br />
what happens when you put a wool sweater through a<br />
regular laundry cycle - it’s much like what happens in an<br />
oven with a Shrinky Dink. That beautiful garment felts<br />
and becomes a tiny, thick version of the original. You<br />
may reach for superwash wools to prevent this problem<br />
only to end up with a faded, pilled, and out-of-shape<br />
garment. Even acrylic garments can end up looking terrible<br />
over time after repeated laundry cycles. Why does<br />
this happen and how can we preserve our hard work?<br />
Let’s dive in.<br />
pilling<br />
What makes a hand-knit garment look old and worn<br />
faster than anything are those little fuzz balls (pills) that<br />
form on the surface. This happens when fibers poking<br />
out from the yarn felt together from the friction of rubbing<br />
or wear.<br />
Handknits are prone to pilling because the yarn we<br />
use is generally heavier with a lower twist than the yarn<br />
in commercially produced garments. Our hand-created<br />
stitches are also looser on average than those made on<br />
a commercial machine. This means that more fiber ends<br />
are exposed with handknits and are less locked in with<br />
twist and tension than machine-knit clothing. As those<br />
fiber ends are abraded, they felt together on the surface<br />
and create pills.<br />
Washing machines can create a lot of friction on the<br />
surface of fabrics. While your superwash sweater may<br />
not shrink with a machine wash, it may come out covered<br />
in pills. This is a<br />
big reason why handwashing<br />
is recommended<br />
even if the<br />
yarn label says it’s safe<br />
for the washing machine.<br />
removing pills<br />
Not everyone realizes<br />
they can easily remove<br />
pills with a Gleener or a<br />
sweater stone. These tools<br />
pull off the pills and leave the garment looking like new<br />
again. However, as they do so, they can pull more fiber<br />
ends to the surface. So, while the garment looks better<br />
afterward, it doesn’t take long before the newly exposed<br />
fiber ends start felting together and the garment looks<br />
worn.<br />
My preferred tool for pill removal is an electric<br />
sweater shaver. It<br />
cuts the fibers of the<br />
pills off at the surface<br />
with sharp<br />
blades which is a<br />
longer-lasting solution.<br />
detergents<br />
Laundry detergents<br />
come in many different “flavors” for many different<br />
reasons. What works to remove stains on cotton may<br />
disintegrate your silk blouse. What is used to lift grease<br />
marks may break dye bonds and lighten your fabric.<br />
Without getting too technical, silk and wool are<br />
fibers that are made from proteins. Many stain removers<br />
added to typical laundry detergents are for tackling protein<br />
stains like blood. If you use these detergents on silk<br />
or wool, they will start to break down the fibers. To see<br />
this in action, take a snippet of wool yarn, put it in a bowl<br />
of bleach, and leave it for 24 hours. When you return<br />
there will be no yarn left. It will have completely<br />
dissolved. It’s a fun experiment to do with<br />
blended yarns, like sock yarn. After 24 hours in<br />
bleach, you will have only a skeleton of nylon<br />
fibers left floating in the dish.<br />
The pH of a detergent also affects fibers. A<br />
typical laundry detergent has an alkaline pH<br />
meant for clothing made from cotton or synthetic<br />
Continued on next page...<br />
5
Lazy Knitter Continued...<br />
fibers. Protein fibers like wool become<br />
brittle when exposed to these<br />
soaps. In contrast, wool washes are<br />
usually pH neutral with added fiber<br />
conditioners like lanolin and have<br />
the added benefit that they do not<br />
require rinsing.<br />
Even if you choose to put your<br />
superwash wool garments into the<br />
washing machine, you can see how the detergent you<br />
select has a big impact on the longevity of your handknits.<br />
Wool washes like Eucalan, Soak, or Kookaburra<br />
are safe choices and are gentle on wool and most<br />
other fibers.<br />
washing<br />
How often you need to wash your handknits is dependent<br />
on the type of yarn used and how dirty your<br />
garment has gotten. Wool does not need to be washed<br />
after every wear as the lanolin content makes it naturally<br />
antimicrobial. I ordinarily only wash my wool<br />
sweaters at the end of the cold season before they<br />
need to be put up for the summer. Otherwise, I only<br />
wash them if they are visibly dirty or have picked up a<br />
smell. Before washing, you can try airing it out and spot<br />
cleaning instead of submerging in<br />
water.<br />
Washing your wool garments<br />
before storing is important. The<br />
dreaded wool moths are attracted<br />
to sweat and skin oils present in<br />
wool clothing that has been worn.<br />
They rarely infest fresh clean wool.<br />
Putting away washed garments<br />
lessens the chance that a wool<br />
moth will be attracted to and lay<br />
eggs in your clothes. (It’s the larva,<br />
not the adult moths, that eat the<br />
wool.)<br />
You may want or need to wash your cotton or bamboo<br />
handknits more frequently than once a season. It’s<br />
true they can be washed in a machine without the fear<br />
of felting. But even still, handwashing is still recommended<br />
to prevent pilling, color lifting, and distortion<br />
of stitches and handwashing extends the life of the<br />
garment.<br />
Obviously, if you are washing something large like<br />
an afghan, it makes sense to use a delicate cycle with<br />
cold water in a washing machine. The delicate cycle will<br />
reduce agitation and the resulting<br />
pilling. The cold water will help prevent<br />
dye lifting and shrinking. Make<br />
sure that the detergent you are<br />
using is appropriate for the fiber<br />
content of your piece.<br />
how to handwash:<br />
Fill a sink or basin with lukewarm<br />
water and submerge the piece for 15 minutes. You will<br />
want to squeeze the air out of the piece as you submerge<br />
until it can stay under the water on its own. You<br />
don’t want to put the piece under running water to<br />
avoid potential felting. Add a bit of gentle (pH-neutral)<br />
detergent or wool wash to the water. If the soap is not<br />
rinseless, you will need to submerge the piece again to<br />
remove the soap.<br />
As tempting as it is to stuff all your garments into<br />
the sink to get the washing done quickly, unless you<br />
know the yarn doesn’t bleed, you’ll want to wash each<br />
item separately. It’s pretty horrible to discover that your<br />
cream hand-knit sweater has picked up purple<br />
blotches from washing it with an eggplant shawl.<br />
After soaking, gently pull the piece out of the water<br />
while supporting the entire piece so the weight of the<br />
water doesn’t stretch out or distort the<br />
knitting. Give it a squeeze to remove<br />
excess water. (Do not wring.) Wrap it<br />
in a towel like a burrito to get out as<br />
much remaining water as possible.<br />
Note: You may want to consider investing<br />
in a spin dryer if you hand<br />
wash a lot of garments. These sit on<br />
your counter and will spin your garment,<br />
much like a washing machine,<br />
to remove most of the water. A spin<br />
dryer is far more effective than the<br />
towel burrito and will shorten the dry<br />
time significantly.<br />
Next, lay your item flat on dry towels and leave it to<br />
dry. After a few hours, you can flip the garment and put<br />
fresh dry towels underneath to help speed up drying.<br />
Make sure your item is very dry before storing away for<br />
the summer.<br />
Even if your yarn label says safe for the dryer, I still<br />
opt for air drying simply to prevent wear and tear. As<br />
your items are rolling around in the dryer, they are rubbing<br />
together, creating pills.<br />
Continued on next page...<br />
6
Lazy Knitter Continued...<br />
storing woolens<br />
You will want to store your handknits folded and<br />
not hung to prevent stretching. It’s also beneficial<br />
to store them in cotton or linen bags so they can<br />
breathe. If you store them in plastic and there is any<br />
residual water from the wash, you risk mildew and<br />
mold. An added cedar block or a lavender sachet<br />
will further help to repel moths.<br />
tying it all together<br />
Handwashing avoids excess friction which reduces<br />
pilling. Using a gentle, pH-neutral soap<br />
means you don’t have to worry about damage to<br />
fibers. When you see the recommendation of handwashing<br />
even though the yarn label says you can<br />
launder in a machine, it’s simply to extend the life<br />
of your item.<br />
As a lazy knitter, I would prefer to stick all my<br />
work in a washing machine and treat it like my<br />
other laundry. But when I think about the amount of<br />
time that goes into creating my handknits and the<br />
money spent on the materials, it becomes easier to<br />
muster up the motivation to hand wash. If you’ve<br />
ever accidentally put a gorgeous, cabled sweater<br />
that you spent a month working on through the<br />
wash, you know the heartache of losing all that time<br />
and energy. Because I only wash my sweaters once<br />
per season, it feels lazier to do the right thing rather<br />
than the “easy” thing and keep all my hard work in<br />
good shape.<br />
For my acrylic crocheted blankets, I still send<br />
them through the washing machine occasionally<br />
and deal with the resulting pilling with my sweater<br />
shaver. I will also put my superwash wool socks<br />
through a gentle machine cycle with wool soap and<br />
then hang them to dry. For my most expensive<br />
yarns and my most time-intensive projects, it will always<br />
be a handwashing.<br />
NEEDS YOU!<br />
© 2022 Conley Olson, @NantucketStudios<br />
WE’RE LOOKING FOR:<br />
• Test Knitters/Crocheters<br />
• Podcasters/Vloggers<br />
• Designers<br />
• Writers<br />
• Artists<br />
If you are interested in<br />
being a contributor<br />
email: blockedmagazine@gmx.com<br />
7
FUNERALS<br />
By Christine Smith<br />
Even though they are difficult events, death and<br />
funerals are part of our lives. It’s important to have<br />
thought through how you want to talk to your children,<br />
and each other when someone close to them<br />
dies. Rather than wait until the inevitable, think and<br />
plan carefully how you will deal with death so you’re<br />
as ready as possible. Two things in life are certain:<br />
death and taxes.<br />
When I was growing up, children were not included<br />
in the death and funeral process. I’m sure my<br />
parents thought they were doing the right thing at the<br />
time but eventually, I was going to have to experience<br />
it, and I think it would have been easier if I had been<br />
included in the rituals when I was younger.<br />
The first person I remember dying was my greatgrandmother.<br />
She taught me how to knit triangles<br />
from the single stitch to the longest row before casting<br />
off. It’s the only one-on-one memory I have of her;<br />
although I do remember her presence.<br />
The first comment I have here is targeted toward<br />
older readers. Actively engage with your grandchildren<br />
and great-grandchildren. Most likely, they will<br />
not come readily to you; you need to draw them<br />
in. It is your responsibility to do this no matter<br />
how awkward it feels.<br />
Great-grandma knitted or crocheted blankets<br />
for all the great-grandchildren. When I learned to<br />
knit at about 7 years old, mum encouraged me to<br />
show my knitting to my great-grandma. I needed<br />
something to take to her as I wouldn’t have gone<br />
without a reason. Perhaps this is natural shyness<br />
or the general thought that children should be off<br />
playing and the adults engaging separately. I remember<br />
great-grandma smiling my way, almost<br />
hoping for engagement. Anyway, mum was right.<br />
She had me up on the couch next to her as I<br />
showed her my knitted triangle. She wasn’t just<br />
being polite; she loved that I came to her and she<br />
felt my knitting and encouraged me. She asked if<br />
I knew about knitting it upside down and proceeded<br />
to show me. I was sitting to the left of her<br />
and I remember feeling her closeness. She was<br />
patient, showed me how, and guided my knitting.<br />
Once it was finished, I left the couch. I wish she’d<br />
done more with me. I wish she had told me about life<br />
when she was a little girl.<br />
It wasn’t too long after that she stopped coming to<br />
regular extended family dinners and I was told she’d<br />
died. Only the adults went to the funeral because the<br />
thought was that children were too young to understand.<br />
All I knew was that she was with God, and I was<br />
happy with that explanation.<br />
Her blankets remained with us for years. I wish I<br />
still had it with many darned patches. As a knitter, I<br />
know how much love and thought go into a piece of<br />
work and I would have liked to hold it, look carefully<br />
at her stitches and feel her love.<br />
When I was 10, Grandma died. We went to the<br />
hospital but the children had to wait in the corridor<br />
whilst my parents went into her room. It would’ve<br />
been good for me to see her for the last time. I didn’t<br />
know she was dying but it would have been helpful if<br />
we had been told that grandma was sick and not<br />
going to get better. Children can cope with basic information.<br />
8
Funerals Continued...<br />
I didn’t go to her funeral either. Maybe the adults<br />
wanted to spare the children from seeing adults upset.<br />
Perhaps that was part of it. But I think they didn’t realize<br />
that excluding children only means they delay the reality<br />
of grief. Even a childish, immature experience of grief is<br />
important in a young life. To live is to die and I still don’t<br />
understand why I was denied this reality. Especially as<br />
we were an evangelical Christian family, unafraid of<br />
death and certain of eternal destiny.<br />
My husband and I chose to include our children in<br />
the funeral of their Poppa. They were all young when he<br />
died. I don’t recall them viewing the body, we gave them<br />
the choice. They saw the tears, the laughter of recollections,<br />
and the peace known by believers.<br />
So that’s my second piece of advice: include your<br />
children in all life brings - the joyous births and the tearful<br />
farewells. Don’t deny them the entirety of life.<br />
Sometime after Grandma died, I was walking around<br />
the garden with Grandpa. I knew he was sad but I didn’t<br />
know what to say. He must’ve sensed it because he<br />
picked up an empty snail shell and told me that was like<br />
what it was when someone died. The shell of their body<br />
remained but the part which was Grandma wasn’t there<br />
anymore. She was with the God she loved and followed<br />
all her life. It made perfect sense to me then and I still recall<br />
it when necessary. That was one of the first theological<br />
teachings via an everyday example that was easy for<br />
a child to understand.<br />
However, he also told me he didn’t like grandma’s<br />
pale purple roses anymore because they are the same<br />
color as a dead person’s ear. I don’t know whether it was<br />
an attempt at a joke or not but it horrified me then and I<br />
still think of that when I see pale purple roses. Not so<br />
wise.<br />
The third lesson: think carefully about what is ageappropriate<br />
to tell your children. A dead person is not<br />
asleep. Those words frightened me as a child because<br />
what if I was thought dead but I was only asleep? It wasn’t<br />
until I viewed a body at a Maori Tangi that I realized a<br />
dead person doesn’t look asleep at all. Like the empty<br />
snail shell, I could see that the person was not there,<br />
only the body. I was so relieved! I was in my mid-20s.<br />
This was something I should’ve known years before<br />
then.<br />
The first funeral I went to was for my husband’s greataunt.<br />
I never knew her and my husband hardly did,<br />
either. But we were in the same city and it was up to us<br />
to represent our side of the family there. I felt unsure<br />
and afraid because I’d never been to a funeral.<br />
Only you know what is appropriate for your children<br />
to be told. But I can say for certain that it is a mistake to<br />
hide this area of our lives from our children. Tell them<br />
the truth. If you don’t know the answer, say so and find<br />
out if you are able to.<br />
The fourth lesson: Unless it’s a tragic funeral, I have<br />
come to view them as a chance for a mini-life audit. Each<br />
time I consider what is important in life, and each time<br />
I’m surprised how far I moved from it. What is important<br />
is people! Family, in particular. Death catches up with us<br />
all and as I get older I realize more and more how little<br />
life is left. In the time I have left to me, I want to be used<br />
well and for others. Funerals help me sort my priorities.<br />
They also remind me that my elderly parents have<br />
limited time with us. None of us knows when those we<br />
love will pass. Part of the mini-life audit is a reminder to<br />
spend time with them and value these chances. If you<br />
haven’t done it already, ask them questions about when<br />
they were young and what they remember about their<br />
grandparents. These moments are not only precious<br />
memories for the younger person listening but important<br />
opportunities to gather family history. When a child<br />
or teen asks a grandparent these things and then tells<br />
their own grandchildren in years to come, there are potentially<br />
hundreds of years of family history shared. Future<br />
generations will thank you for these memoirs.<br />
Funerals are a good time to catch up with people<br />
and extended families. What is it about a funeral that<br />
generates the action of coming together and why do we<br />
wait for a funeral to do this? I suppose it’s because we<br />
don’t plan a funeral but we must plan a reunion.<br />
It’s a good idea to talk to your elderly parents to plan<br />
their funerals and what will happen after their deaths. If<br />
they’re not willing to do this, don’t force it but do get<br />
some planning in for your sake and that of your family.<br />
The more basic plans are in place, the more time you<br />
will have to deal with the shock and immediate grieving<br />
process - not just yours but others, too.<br />
I’ve recently talked and planned with my parents,<br />
and it’s a relief for them and me to have the discussion<br />
behind us. They talked about some of their own experiences<br />
with funerals and we enjoyed a few laughs with<br />
black humor. These are times I already hold as precious<br />
memories. My husband and I need to get on with planning,<br />
too.<br />
To wrap up - when there’s a funeral, include your children<br />
as much as is appropriate. If you need help talking<br />
9
Funerals Continued...<br />
with them, get advice but don’t perpetuate unhelpful myths<br />
or misunderstandings. Don’t be afraid to let your children<br />
see you cry and grieve. If it means it’s time for you to sort<br />
out what you believe, then get onto that too. Ask pertinent<br />
questions of your older family members whilst you still can,<br />
and get these recorded digitally or written down. And get<br />
funeral planning underway if you haven’t already.<br />
The triangle pattern:<br />
1. Leaving a 6”tail (for sewing later) cast on 1 stitch.<br />
Turn.<br />
2. Increase into the first stitch (knit into the front and<br />
then the back of the same stitch), knit to the end of<br />
the row.<br />
Turn.<br />
3. Repeat 2. Until the triangle is the required size<br />
(in my example I bound off when I reached 30 stitches).<br />
10
y Yelena of Scythia<br />
LOST IN ALASKA<br />
Remember all the Instagram hacks in 2022? How<br />
many of your favorite indy yarn dyers completely lost<br />
online and physical storefront businesses because of<br />
Instagram hacks? Wait, none of them did? They just<br />
created new Instagram accounts, emailed newsletters,<br />
and moved on? Well, someone needs to tell Tara<br />
Sager at the now-defunct Rebel Woolworks that an Instagram<br />
hack isn’t the end of the world. Or maybe she<br />
used an Instagram hack as an excuse to just pack it up<br />
and defraud customers and Kickstarter backers.<br />
This story started when Tara Sager, owner of Rebel<br />
Woolworks, located in eastern Oregon, decided to<br />
participate in a small business competition for a grant<br />
in La Grande, Oregon. Rebel<br />
started a Kickstarter campaign to<br />
raise some initial funds and applied<br />
for a small business grant<br />
from the City of La Grande Urban<br />
Renewal Agency, which Rebel won.<br />
Tara was then able to open a storefront<br />
complete with a dye studio in<br />
downtown La Grande. She received<br />
glowing press in the local<br />
paper, The La Grande (Ore) Observer.<br />
As part of the Kickstarter campaign, Tara created a<br />
unique colorway named Dreams that would be a reward<br />
for a successful Kickstarter campaign. This colorway<br />
was to be exclusive to the Kickstarter. When the<br />
colorway became much desired, and Tara started selling<br />
it on her website in addition to her then-successful<br />
Kickstarter, red flags ensued.<br />
Rebel Woolworks opened a storefront in 2021 to<br />
much local acclaim. Things appeared to be going well.<br />
However, the Kickstarter rewards were taking a long<br />
time to fulfill, and Tara appeared to be focused on<br />
dying and delivering the Dreams colorway to online<br />
and store customers before her Kickstarter supporters.<br />
Backers started asking questions on Kickstarter. The<br />
excuses began.<br />
Tara alleges that her storefront and dye studio<br />
flooded due to rain twice. I did some searching both<br />
on the La Grande Observer website as well as generic<br />
internet searches and found zero news coverage of<br />
flooding in downtown La Grande in 2021. I did see<br />
plenty of local news coverage of flooding in the region,<br />
including La Grande in 2020, but nothing in<br />
2021. If there was enough rain for downtown businesses<br />
to flood twice, I would expect there to be local<br />
news coverage. I’m not saying that Rebel Woolworks<br />
didn’t flood, but I could not find evidence of floods in<br />
downtown La Grande when Ms. Sager claims her<br />
storefront flooded—twice. In fact,<br />
the La Grande Observer did a follow-up<br />
story on Rebel Woolworks<br />
in April 2022 and there was no<br />
mention of Tara’s flood claims.<br />
When the noise surrounding<br />
the lack of delivery on the Kickstarter<br />
rewards increased, Tara<br />
posted about how she is an artist<br />
and a creative, and she needs to<br />
create instead of just doing the<br />
same colorway over and over. She claimed that she<br />
had to dye 6,000 skeins of Dreams, presumably between<br />
website sales and Kickstarter rewards. The<br />
numbers are immediately suspicious as there are only<br />
168 Kickstarter backers. Between skeins of Dreams<br />
and coordinating colors, only 600 skeins (including<br />
mini skeins) were due to be delivered as Kickstarter rewards.<br />
Either she is making up numbers or she didn’t<br />
limit the number of skeins of Dreams that were available<br />
for sale on her website. She has delivered to<br />
some of her Kickstarter backers, but not all, and many<br />
of the larger reward tier backers have not received any<br />
rewards.<br />
Instead of dying skeins of Dreams, Tara ghosted<br />
her Kickstarter campaign and started dyeing quarterly<br />
Continued on page 14...<br />
11
DISHIDENT #9<br />
by UKnitted Kingdom<br />
PATTERN DESCRIPTION<br />
Each issue of Blocked will contain a ‘secret’ pattern.<br />
The design will only be revealed as you knit. The<br />
instructions might uncover an image; a design, or a<br />
word/message.<br />
When using cotton these secret squares make<br />
excellent dishcloths. If you make 4 or 5 of each square<br />
in wool or acrylic they can be seamed together at the<br />
end of the year to make a small Afghan or lap blanket.<br />
GAUGE & MATERIALS<br />
Each dishident uses approximately 41 to 43g of<br />
worsted weight 100% cotton. Follow the yarn<br />
manufacturer’s recommended needle size.<br />
DIRECTIONS<br />
→ Row 1 [WS]: k45<br />
← Row 2 [RS]: k45<br />
→ Row 3 [WS]: k45<br />
← Row 4 [RS]: k45<br />
→ Row 5 [WS]: k45<br />
← Row 6 [RS]: k45<br />
→ Row 7 [WS]: k4, p37, k4<br />
← Row 8 [RS]: k45<br />
→ Row 9 [WS]: k4, p9, k4, p12, k4, p8, k4<br />
← Row 10 [RS]: k45<br />
→ Row 11 [WS]: k4, p9, k4, p12, k4, p8, k4<br />
← Row 12 [RS]: k45<br />
→ Row 13 [WS]: k4, p9, k4, p12, k4, p8, k4<br />
← Row 14 [RS]: k45<br />
→ Row 15 [WS]: k4, p9, k4, p12, k4, p8, k4<br />
← Row 16 [RS]: k45<br />
→ Row 17 [WS]: k4, p8, k6, p11, k4, p8, k4<br />
← Row 18 [RS]: k45<br />
→ Row 19 [WS]: k4, p7, k3, p2, k3, p10, k4, p8, k4<br />
← Row 20 [RS]: k45<br />
→ Row 21 [WS]: k4, p6, k3, p4, k4, p4, k12, p4, k4<br />
← Row 22 [RS]: k45<br />
→ Row 23 [WS]: k4, p4, k4, p6, k4, p3, k12, p4, k4<br />
← Row 24 [RS]: k45<br />
→ Row 25 [WS]: k4, p37, k4<br />
← Row 26 [RS]: k45<br />
→ Row 27 [WS]: k4, p16, k8, p2, k7, p4, k4<br />
← Row 28 [RS]: k45<br />
→ Row 29 [WS]: k4, p17, k2, p7, k2, p4, k2, p3, k4<br />
12
← Row 30 [RS]: k45<br />
→ Row 31 [WS]: k4, p19, k2, p5, k2, p4, k2, p3, k4<br />
← Row 32 [RS]: k45<br />
→ Row 33 [WS]: k4, p21, k2, p3, k7, p4, k4<br />
← Row 34 [RS]: k45<br />
→ Row 35 [WS]: k4, p5, k8, p4, k2, p3, k2, p2,<br />
k2, p9, k4<br />
← Row 36 [RS]: k45<br />
→ Row 37 [WS]: k4, p3, k4, p3, k5, p3, k5, p3,<br />
k2, p9, k4<br />
← Row 38 [RS]: k45<br />
→ Row 39 [WS]: k4, p3, k3, p7, k3, p21, k4<br />
← Row 40 [RS]: k45<br />
→ Row 41 [WS]: k4, p12, k3, p6, k4, p3, k2, p2,<br />
k3, p2, k4<br />
← Row 42 [RS]: k45<br />
→ Row 43 [WS]: k4, p9, k4, p7, k2, p2, k2, p2,<br />
k2, p, k3, p3, k4<br />
← Row 44 [RS]: k45<br />
→ Row 45 [WS]: k4, p5, k4, p11, k2, p2, k2, p2,<br />
k4, p5, k4<br />
← Row 46 [RS]: k45<br />
→ Row 47 [WS]: k4, p3, k3, p14, k2, p2, k2, p2,<br />
k3, p6, k4<br />
← Row 48 [RS]: k45<br />
→ Row 49 [WS]: k4, p3, k3, p4, k3, p3, k1, p3,<br />
k2, p2, k2, p2, k5, p4, k4<br />
← Row 50 [RS]: k45<br />
→ Row 51 [WS]: k4, p5, k7, p3, k3, p3, k4, p3,<br />
k2, p2, k3, p2, k4<br />
← Row 52 [RS]: k45<br />
→ Row 53 [WS]: k4, p16, k3, p18, k4<br />
← Row 54 [RS]: k45<br />
→ Row 55 [WS]: k4, p37, k4<br />
← Row 56 [RS]: k45<br />
→ Row 57 [WS]: k45<br />
← Row 58 [RS]: k45<br />
→ Row 59 [WS]: k45<br />
← Row 60 [RS]: k45<br />
→ Row 61 [WS]: k45<br />
← Row 62 [RS]: k45<br />
BO<br />
ABBREVIATIONS<br />
CO Cast on<br />
k Knit<br />
p Purl<br />
TIPS<br />
If preferred, slip the first OR the last stitch of every<br />
row to create a neater edge. When purling a stitch<br />
immediately after knitting a stitch; pull the excess<br />
yarn out of the purl stitch before knitting or purling<br />
on. This helps to reduce loose/baggy knit stitches.<br />
NOTES<br />
Occasionally a dishident or secret square might not<br />
be suitable for children and ‘polite company’.<br />
Where this is the case it will be made clear.<br />
SHE RAGGEDY<br />
In her own words<br />
Click on the link or scan the QR code to read the true and accurate<br />
uncut transcript of a live Instagram video posted on 29 Nov 2021<br />
by Adella Colvin of Lola Bean Yarn Co.<br />
https://www.yumpu.com/s/ivfygnRNjMkVmOUo<br />
WARNING: Contains profanity and may be considered disturbing.<br />
Link to actual Video<br />
https://youtu.be/ZjvYTyDQ9qU<br />
13
Lost in Alaska Continued...<br />
advents, a John Muir collection, and a Titanic collection.<br />
She just went silent on the Kickstarter rewards,<br />
completely ignoring her backers. She simply<br />
stopped posting updates or responding to messages<br />
on Kickstarter, while hosting events at her<br />
storefront. Her reason? Difficulty navigating the<br />
Kickstarter website. Tara was able to set up the Kickstarter<br />
and take $9,800 in support, but when<br />
backers start asking questions, she disappeared.<br />
Tara alleged that the Rebel Woolworks Instagram<br />
account was hacked in May 2022 and that because<br />
of that hack, she lost significant money, which<br />
put her business at risk. As a way to help after the<br />
hack, she put her fall and winter advents on sale for<br />
20% off. On June 4, 2022, she posted on her new Instagram<br />
account that the Instagram hack completely<br />
destroyed her business and that she was closing her<br />
storefront, moving to Alaska, and starting a new job<br />
as a construction project manager in July. Oh, and<br />
her husband also found a new job in Alaska. Tara<br />
claims this was all of a sudden, unplanned, and necessary<br />
to care for her family. She stated that she<br />
would ship out all outstanding orders, refund unfulfilled<br />
Kickstarter rewards, and absolutely ship out<br />
fall and winter advents after her move to Anchorage,<br />
Alaska.<br />
On June 5, she was still selling advents on her<br />
website. On June 9, her website was down. On June<br />
10, her website was back up, but Tara posted on social<br />
media that Rebel Woolworks was closing for<br />
good. By September, the Rebel Woolworks<br />
website was down completely.<br />
According to people who posted on the Demon<br />
Trolls group on Ravelry, Rebel Woolworks never issued<br />
refunds to Kickstarter backers. Several people<br />
also reported that Tara was not responding to<br />
emails or direct messages. The website and email<br />
address are shut down.<br />
Amazingly, Tara Sager had the gall to continue<br />
to sell advents on her website after announcing she<br />
was moving and shutting down her business. It<br />
takes longer than days to find new jobs in another<br />
state, cancel leases and arrange for an interstate<br />
move. It seems clear that her advent sale was a cash<br />
grab.<br />
According to the La Grande Observer, there is<br />
no requirement for Rebel Woolworks to return the<br />
small business grant. This is unfortunate. Larger<br />
businesses that receive tax incentives, and often<br />
smaller businesses as well, are required to meet certain<br />
hiring or investment targets to receive grants or<br />
tax incentives. These tax incentives and grants are<br />
generally subject to clawback, where the business is<br />
required to pay the money back if hiring and investment<br />
targets are not met. I wonder if the City of La<br />
Grande is aware of what their 2021 grant recipient<br />
did to customers and the knitting community. Perhaps<br />
they should consider more requirements from<br />
grant recipients and have a clawback mechanism in<br />
an effort to protect taxpayer funds and customers. I<br />
can only hope that Tara Sager does not return as an<br />
indie yarn dyer under another name. While her yarn<br />
is beautiful, the knitting community certainly doesn’t<br />
need yet another dishonest dyer.<br />
14
By Uknitted Kingdom<br />
Dropped STitch<br />
Correcting the Copyright Claims<br />
Imagine, for a moment, that you are a very successful<br />
indie designer with around 150 self-published<br />
patterns. To date, your pattern sales (on just one knitting<br />
platform) have grossed $1,180,937.00. Granted<br />
you have probably paid taxes and fees, but still, you<br />
have undoubtedly netted a very lucrative amount,<br />
enough, perhaps, to buy a second five-bedroom<br />
home. Good for you!<br />
As a capitalist, I admire anyone that makes lifechanging<br />
amounts of money from talent and/or hard<br />
work. I have even more admiration for those that, having<br />
succeeded financially, then encourage others to<br />
make money for themselves.<br />
This brings me to this issue’s ‘Dropped Stitch.’<br />
In episode 97 of “I’ll Knit If I Want To,” Andrea<br />
Mowry (the designer alluded to above) answered a<br />
viewer’s question about copyright.<br />
The viewer asked,<br />
“I'm wondering about the etiquette/legality<br />
regarding selling your knit finished objects as a<br />
side project. Is this only OK if you designed the<br />
pattern of the knit? Is it OK to knit up a pattern<br />
that someone else designed and sell the FO (finished<br />
object) without their consent or sharing the<br />
profit? We never want to infringe upon a copyright<br />
or break community etiquette but it would<br />
be a fun little side hustle to sell some fun items<br />
on Etsy or at farmers' markets.”<br />
Mowry replied,<br />
“I have gotten this question a few times and I<br />
also have noticed an uptick in people selling finished<br />
objects for my patterns on Etsy so if you are<br />
doing that please stop.<br />
Basically, it completely depends on that designer<br />
and their copyright. In my copyright, it<br />
very specifically states that you're not allowed to<br />
sell finished items from my patterns. In general, a<br />
good way to know if that designer would be OK<br />
with you selling finished items is they will state<br />
it…if there is no permission given, don't assume<br />
you can. Definitely at least reach out, but a lot of<br />
times it will be stated right in the copyright. So<br />
go read the copyright and if you can't find anything<br />
on it I would definitely recommend asking<br />
that designer before you go sell things from their<br />
patterns.<br />
So in regards to my patterns, I do not give<br />
permission to sell finished items from my patterns<br />
so please don't, and thank you for respecting<br />
my copyright.”<br />
Mowry’s assertion about copyright is incorrect. I<br />
posted a polite comment under her Youtube video explaining<br />
the limits of her copyright and she promptly<br />
removed my comment and any other similar comments.<br />
Copyright is a tricky subject to pin down. It’s particularly<br />
confusing when it comes to clothing and exceptionally<br />
confusing when it comes to knit/crochet<br />
wear.<br />
Where Mowry is correct is that her written pattern<br />
is protected under copyright. Purchasers do not have<br />
the right to copy, sell, or distribute a pattern for any<br />
purpose other than personal use. You are permitted to<br />
give the pattern away as a gift for someone else to<br />
use, but you are not permitted to copy the pattern first<br />
for your own use.<br />
Compare this to reading a book. Once read, how<br />
often have you lent or given a book to someone else?<br />
People generally would consider giving away a read<br />
document perfectly acceptable – but draw the line at<br />
photocopying that document and reselling it.<br />
In the case of music, copyright laws have been<br />
regularly breached on a huge scale. In the days of<br />
vinyl, cassette, and CDs, copying was common. If you<br />
Continued on next page...<br />
15
Dropped Stitch - Continued From page 15<br />
Copyright only covers<br />
selling or copying<br />
THE WORDS<br />
of the recipe,<br />
NOT THE<br />
BAKED CAKE.<br />
recorded music from the radio, cut a vinyl record, or<br />
burned a copy of a music CD, you were breaking<br />
copyright law.<br />
The issue Mowry raises is, who owns the product<br />
made from a pattern?<br />
Mowry receives compensation for her talent/work<br />
from every pattern sold. She will only be denied her<br />
rightful compensation if the pattern is stolen, copied,<br />
or shared. Under normal circumstances, once the pattern<br />
has been bought and supplied, the contract between<br />
seller and buyer has now concluded. At no<br />
point during the sale of a knitted item is Mowry (or<br />
any other designer) losing potential income. Mowry<br />
sells patterns, not garments.<br />
You have the pattern.<br />
You purchase the<br />
yarn and tools needed<br />
to knit the garment. You<br />
spend a significant<br />
amount of time knitting<br />
the garment. From casting<br />
on to binding off,<br />
you own that garment<br />
and the designer has<br />
no physical claim over<br />
it. Like any other item of<br />
clothing you own, you<br />
can give it away, sell it,<br />
adapt it, destroy it, or<br />
do anything to it or with it you see fit.<br />
The material the garment is made of belongs to<br />
you. The craftsmanship of the garment is completely<br />
down to your own skill. You are ethically and legally<br />
permitted to sell this item on Etsy, a farmers’ market,<br />
or any other trading space. Much like with recipes for<br />
baked goods, it’s perfectly acceptable to make a<br />
batch of cakes (using a baker’s published recipe) and<br />
sell them. Copyright only covers selling or copying<br />
the words of the recipe, not the baked cake.<br />
Mowry and others often compare knitting patterns<br />
with sewing patterns. It could be physically possible to<br />
buy a sewing pattern and mass produce an<br />
entire shop’s worth of identical garments in a<br />
reasonably short time period. This is not the<br />
case with hand-knitting patterns. Realistically<br />
how many Weekenders (Mowry’s most popular<br />
design) could a knitter make in one month? One?<br />
Two? Three? Enough to gross $1,180,937.00? How<br />
much would a knitter net from selling a garment made<br />
from a Mowry design? After the cost of the yarn has<br />
been deducted, and the time spent knitting accounted<br />
for, a hand knitter is unlikely to make a profit.<br />
S/he will, if lucky, just about break even.<br />
Copyright in knitting can only cover written patterns,<br />
unique never-before-published stitch patterns<br />
or images, trademarked logos or images, and unique<br />
constructions. A sweater constructed in a pre-published<br />
fashion, with any pre-published stitch is, in and<br />
of itself, not covered by copyright. Unless you invented<br />
the sweater concept<br />
you cannot copyright it. I’ve<br />
raised this point before using<br />
the 56/64/72 stitch sock, with<br />
a stitch pattern from a stitch<br />
dictionary, and any standard<br />
pre-published toe and heel.<br />
The written pattern itself is all<br />
that can be copyrighted. In<br />
this specific instance, it isn’t<br />
impossible for 2 or more designers<br />
to independently<br />
publish exactly the same<br />
sock pattern – just using different<br />
yarn,<br />
terminology/phrasing, and<br />
images.<br />
An exception to this would be Fair Isle and intarsia.<br />
Original image designs, created by the designer,<br />
would absolutely be protected by copyright.<br />
In the USA copyright laws relating to the selling of<br />
hand knitted items created using a copyrighted pattern<br />
have, to my knowledge, not been tested. Mowry<br />
(or another designer) would have to instigate, and pay<br />
for, legal action in the hope of winning.<br />
Mowry claims that her copyright “very specifically<br />
states that you're not allowed to sell finished items<br />
from [her] patterns.” An example of this can be seen<br />
below.<br />
16<br />
Continued on next page...
Dropped Stitch - Continued From page 16<br />
This month’s ‘Dropped Stitch’ is:<br />
Andrea Mowry<br />
©<br />
For incorrectly educating the public<br />
about the rules of copyright.<br />
Copyright only is valid for a printed pattern<br />
not the finished piece.<br />
©<br />
The problem here is twofold. Firstly, as already mentioned, physical knitted items are not covered by the pattern’s<br />
copyright. Secondly, the agreement implied here is null and void because the purchaser could not reasonably consent to<br />
this agreement before purchasing the pattern as buyers only get to see this once they receive the pattern! To have any<br />
hope of being legally enforceable the buyer should be given this information before purchase.<br />
From a legal perspective, Mowry has dropped a stitch. From an ethical or community etiquette perspective I would<br />
argue that, after making over a million dollars from the knitting community, it is unethical and downright mean of Mowry<br />
to attempt to prohibit (predominantly) less wealthy and less privileged knitters from making a few bucks from selling an<br />
item, made by their own hands, with yarn paid for from their own wallets, using a pattern legally purchased.<br />
I hope the millionaire, Andrea Mowry, chooses to be less mean-spirited in future.<br />
Patterns published in Blocked carry copyright notices. However, these are not contracts entered into upon<br />
purchasing (they’re free!). Although one or two Blocked designers have requested that knitters/crocheters refrain<br />
from mass-producing items for sale, this is just a request.<br />
Copyright laws can vary between countries. Please refer to the copyright laws of your country for more information.<br />
USA Copyright<br />
https://library.osu.edu/site/copyright/2014/07/14/patterns-and-copyright-protections/<br />
https://www.copyright.gov/<br />
UK copyright<br />
https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/copyright-notice-knitting-and-sewing-patterns/copyright-notice-knitting-and-sewing-patterns<br />
17
Knitting Patterns, Hand-Dyed Yarns,<br />
Tools, Notions & More!<br />
www.knittymcpurly.com<br />
Hand-dyed yarns, Opal yarns, patterns, tools, and notions.<br />
https://www.etsy.com/de/shop/AnnaKnitterYarns<br />
New Zealand yarn store.<br />
Ships worldwide.<br />
www.skeinz.com<br />
Knitting Patterns<br />
https://www.ravelry.com/designers/liz-clothier<br />
Anne Pinkava<br />
Knitting Patterns<br />
www.lovecrafts.com/en-us/user/maker/fdba7e1e-93b6-4b6f-9f82-06ef18d0ec8c<br />
Knitting Patterns<br />
https://galilee-life.com/vendor/deplorable-knitter/<br />
18
Amigurumi/Crochet Patterns<br />
http://www.yankeerose.etsy.com/<br />
Wise Owl Knits<br />
Knitting Patterns and Tutorials<br />
www.wiseowlknits.com<br />
Karen Juliano<br />
Blogger<br />
& Knitter<br />
Fabrics, Sewing Patterns,<br />
and Tutorials<br />
littleragamuffin.com<br />
Knitting Patterns:<br />
https://www.lovecrafts.com/en-us/user/maker/647c869e-a568-4b05-8fb4-b8f868600ec4<br />
Knitting Patterns and Tutorials<br />
https://www.ravelry.com/stores/birdie-beanie<br />
Love Stitched<br />
https://galilee-life.com/vendor/love-stitched/<br />
19
By Uknitted Kingdom<br />
A REVIEW OF<br />
“THE TYPICAL TUDOR”<br />
20<br />
In one of her “Casual Friday” Youtube videos, “Knitting<br />
a 16th Century Stocking // Casual Friday<br />
S6E03Knitting a 16th Century Stocking. S6E3,” (Roxanne<br />
Richardson, 2023) Roxanne Richardson discussed<br />
a book titled “The Typical Tudor” by Jane Malcolm-<br />
Davies and Ninya Mikhaila (2022).<br />
“The Typical Tudor” is part<br />
of a collection of historical descriptions<br />
with fifty patterns to<br />
reconstruct 16th-century clothing.<br />
Richardson used a knitting<br />
pattern from the book to knit a<br />
stocking as part of an ongoing<br />
project she is covering in her<br />
“Casual Friday” series.<br />
What makes The Typical<br />
Tudor different from other<br />
books in the collection is that it<br />
includes garments worn by the<br />
ordinary public of the time<br />
rather than by the aristocracy.<br />
Having an interest in history,<br />
particularly the history of common,<br />
everyday people, my curiosity<br />
was piqued.<br />
With a cover price of £58<br />
plus postage and packaging<br />
the 216-page paperback book<br />
is extremely expensive. I justified this expense by telling<br />
myself I hadn’t purchased any yarn in 2023. But, as one<br />
friend pointed out, “it’s not even February yet!”<br />
The book arrived this morning (Jan 24) and when I<br />
opened the packaging the book was beautifully<br />
wrapped in brown paper. Seriously, this impressed me.<br />
It was wrapped with more care than a Christmas or<br />
birthday present.<br />
The cover, although softback, is of good quality<br />
with a gatefold (aka French flap) with a printed ruler to<br />
help with scaling up the sewing patterns and 16th-Century<br />
terms for currency, measurements, and numerals.<br />
With high-quality, cool-to-the-touch, glossy pages<br />
that enhance all the images, whether drawn or photographed,<br />
there is an image of one sort or another on almost<br />
every page. Casually thumbing through the book<br />
is visually interesting.<br />
With 18 pages of bibliography and endnotes, it’s<br />
clear this is a widely researched tome. I’ll return to the<br />
quality of the research later.<br />
The data drawn upon is extensive. Over 55,000<br />
items of documented clothing were analyzed. Using<br />
contemporary diaries, wills, import<br />
and export records, portraits, and<br />
household expense accounts for servants,<br />
amongst other records, makes<br />
this a fascinating read. Each garment<br />
includes where the information was<br />
sourced. Each is a tiny snapshot of a<br />
real person. An example of this can<br />
be viewed here: Malcolm-Davies, J.,<br />
& Mikhaila, N. (2022). The Typical<br />
Tudor: Reconstructing Everyday 16th<br />
Century Dress. Amsterdam, Netherlands:<br />
Amsterdam University Press.<br />
https://youtu.be/rfc1bLLk-ss<br />
Of the fifty patterns included,<br />
there are only a handful of knitting<br />
patterns. They include stockings,<br />
garters, caps, and sleeves. Interestingly,<br />
the book notes that there are<br />
very few knitting patterns available<br />
from this era, so all the knitted patterns<br />
were reverse-engineered<br />
based on archived items from the period, descriptions,<br />
and paintings. Tudor knitters would have used doublepointed<br />
wires or whalebone needles to knit in the<br />
round. The purl stitch wasn’t believed to have been discovered<br />
at that point so any instances of reverse stockinette<br />
stitch would have been achieved by turning the<br />
work and knitting on the reverse side.<br />
If you’re a knitter hoping to find a plethora of Tudor<br />
sweater patterns you’ll be disappointed. There is a<br />
small section dedicated to 16th-century knitting techniques<br />
but this information, in itself, does not justify<br />
buying the book. However, I would recommend this<br />
book for sewers, or anyone, with an interest in costume<br />
design, re-enactments, and historical fashion. It would<br />
make a great coffee-table talking point. The less mature<br />
amongst us will giggle at the “breast bags” and “cod-
Typical Tudor - Continued from page 20<br />
pieces.”<br />
This is a book that I know I will revisit. There are<br />
gems scattered throughout, such as my favorite, a<br />
16th-century quotation attributed to “an onlooker.”<br />
“Some women ‘may well wear velvet in the street…<br />
who cannot afford a crust of dry bread at home.’”<br />
(page 16). In my youth, I often heard elders describing<br />
someone as “all fur coat and no knickers.” It’s interesting<br />
to see how such comments evolve throughout time<br />
yet the base meaning remains exactly the same.<br />
Is it worth £58? That depends. If you value the time<br />
and research that has gone into collating the information<br />
in the book, absolutely! If you’re looking for<br />
knitting patterns, and not much else, save your money!<br />
Overall I’m very happy with the book and, for me, I can<br />
see the inherent value of the information. To me, it was<br />
money well spent. Now if only I could afford a crust of<br />
dry bread.<br />
“Much Adoe About Nothing”?<br />
I do have one major criticism of the book, one<br />
which cannot be ignored.<br />
My American friends generally felt that my criticism<br />
of “The Typical Tudor” didn’t really justify an article. However,<br />
my English friends were all as<br />
appalled as I. Judging by the reactions<br />
from my small cross-section of<br />
friends the following might be<br />
viewed very differently depending<br />
upon whether you live in “The New<br />
World” or “The Old World” (to use<br />
the vernacular of Tudor times. Either<br />
way, my opinion here does not detract<br />
much from the book. It is more<br />
that the book is just the latest example<br />
of what I consider to be the alteration<br />
of history to suit a particular<br />
agenda. Decide for yourself.<br />
It begins with the cover and the title of the book,<br />
“The Typical Tudor.” They’re misleading and promote,<br />
what I believe to be, an untruth.<br />
The word typical is defined as “having or showing<br />
the characteristics, qualities, etc. of a kind, class, or<br />
group so fully as to be a representative example.”<br />
(“Typical Definition & Meaning,” n.d.) Tudor is defined<br />
as “Of, relating to, or characteristic of the period of the<br />
Tudors (1485-1603).” (“Tudor Definition & Meaning,”<br />
n.d.) So a typical Tudor can only be one of two things:<br />
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/<br />
Much_Ado_About_Nothing<br />
1. A member of the English royal dynasty between<br />
those dates. Or, 2. an average/standard English person<br />
living in England between those dates.<br />
Within the book, Jane Malcolm-Davies and Ninya<br />
Mikhaila chose to use black models of seemingly Caribbean<br />
descent. The cover depicts the midriff of a<br />
black woman. They may have anticipated some questioning<br />
of this as they include a paragraph about black<br />
Tudors on page 10. Furthermore, they released a video<br />
to explain their rationale, We Were There.<br />
https://youtu.be/TebZdJU0Hiw (Tailor, 2019)<br />
There were several black people recorded as living<br />
in England in the Tudor period. The source used to<br />
support this is a 2017 book by M Kaufman, “Black Tudors,<br />
The Untold Story (2018). I read this book recently<br />
and was quite astonished at the poor research and liberties<br />
taken to reach conclusions.<br />
Kaufman claims just 10 black people lived in England<br />
during Tudor times. These are;<br />
John Blanke, the trumpeter; Jacques<br />
Francis, the salvage diver; Diego, the circumnavigator;<br />
Edward Swarthye, the<br />
porter; Reasonable Blackman, the silk<br />
weaver; Mary Fillis, the Moroccan convert;<br />
Dederi Jaquoah, the prince of<br />
River Cestos; John Anthony, mariner of<br />
Dover; Anne Cobbie, the tawny Moor<br />
with soft skin; and Cattelena of Almondsbury,<br />
independent singlewoman.<br />
As this isn’t a review of “Black Tudors” I’ll refrain<br />
from dismantling Kaufman’s claims one by one. Instead,<br />
I’ll focus on the example shown in “The Typical<br />
Tudor.”<br />
John Blanke is the now-famous trumpeter depicted<br />
in the Westminster Tournament Roll (1511). This<br />
is the ONLY known contemporary portrait of a black<br />
person in Tudor England.<br />
21
Typical Tudor - Continued from page 21<br />
Based upon nothing more than the above image,<br />
Kaufman asserts that John Blanke was born in North or<br />
West Africa. She identifies him as a Muslim wearing a turban.<br />
The latter point isn’t so much of a stretch, but looking<br />
at the image it’s impossible to tell if this man was a<br />
black African or a Middle Eastern Muslim.<br />
Wrestling at the Field of Cloth of Gold. (n.d.). [Tapestry]. London,<br />
United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland: Hampton<br />
Court Palace.<br />
Historic Royal Palaces [@HRP_palaces]. (2020, October 16). It<br />
could be speculated that this Black French trumpeter is actually<br />
John Blanke. He left Henry’s court records in 1512, so by 1520 he<br />
could be the Black trumpeter in the Tapestry. We don’t know, as<br />
many French court records were destroyed during the Revolution<br />
from 1789. [MO]. Twitter. Retrieved January 26, 2023, from<br />
https://twitter.com/HRP_palaces/status/1317026691626246144/<br />
photo/1<br />
However, in “The Typical Tudor” a different image is<br />
used. On page 10 the image (above) of the black trumpeter<br />
in the top left is used as evidence for John Blanke.<br />
The problem with using this image is that this depicts<br />
France and cannot, therefore, be considered “Tudor.”<br />
Furthermore, as noted in the tweet by the Historic<br />
Royal Palaces, it is only speculated that the 2 images are<br />
of the same man. The only common feature between<br />
them is the trumpet. The assumption here is that 16thcentury<br />
trumpeters of color were so rare, so atypical, that<br />
there could only be one black trumpeter in the combined<br />
kingdoms of England and France.<br />
For argument’s sake let us assume that the 10 people<br />
described in Kaufman’s book were all born in England<br />
(they weren’t) and were all indisputably black Africans<br />
(they weren’t), they would still not be representative of an<br />
entire cultural era.<br />
Even by 2023 population data a typical English person<br />
cannot be classed as black. The percentage of white<br />
people in the country as a whole far outnumbers the<br />
black population. However, if one wanted to portray a<br />
typical Londoner the story would be different. With a<br />
white indigenous population of only 36% a typical Londoner<br />
is more likely to be black or Indian/Pakistani. In<br />
Manchester, the percentage is almost equal with 49% indigenous<br />
white. To those that dispute these figures,<br />
please note I’m using the “indigenous white” figures not<br />
“white European” or “white other.” (Regional ethnic diversity.<br />
(2022, December 22). Retrieved from<br />
https://www.ethnicity-facts-figures.service.gov.uk/ukpopulation-by-ethnicity/national-and-regional-populations/regional-ethnic-diversity/latest<br />
)<br />
To be overly generous, if we multiply the 10 black individuals<br />
allegedly living in Tudor England by 10, even<br />
100, black people in England could not be considered<br />
“typical.”<br />
Some will accuse me of racism for pointing this out.<br />
That’s nonsense. The issue with “The Typical Tudor” isn’t<br />
that it contains black models, it’s that it is deliberately<br />
misleading by titling the book “The Typical Tudor.” If the<br />
22
Typical Tudor - Continued from page 22<br />
book had been titled, “The Typical Tudor Outfit,” or<br />
“Typical Tudor Fashion” then the ethnicity of the models<br />
would be irrelevant and could include any and every<br />
nationality and ethnicity in the world. But it is not. The<br />
book is erroneously or deceptively implying that black<br />
people were typical and representative of Tudor England.<br />
If a book was published titled, “The Typical Bugandan”<br />
with a white cover model and white models inside<br />
alongside modern-day black Ugandans, the accusation<br />
of cultural appropriation would be laid at the publisher’s<br />
door.<br />
There is a growing trend of inserting different ethnicities<br />
into English and European history. Future generations<br />
will have no reason to believe that Anne Boleyn,<br />
the mother of Elizabeth I was anything other than a<br />
woman of Caribbean descent. It won’t be long before<br />
Charles II, known by his mother as “the Black Boy” because<br />
of his dark hair and eyes, will be depicted as a<br />
black African.<br />
Those ignorant of England’s history have, this very<br />
week, renamed Black Boy Lane in Haringey, North London,<br />
La Rose Lane. Thinking that the original name is<br />
racist and offensive (it isn’t), Haringey Council renamed<br />
it after John La Rose, a black activist and author. Despite<br />
spending £180,000 on public consultations, the<br />
Council ignored the wishes of the local residents and<br />
went ahead and changed the signs. As a clear indication<br />
of the residents’ disapproval, one of the six new<br />
street signs was vandalized less than 24 hours after it<br />
was renamed.<br />
Witnesses claimed the vandalism was “mostly<br />
peaceful”.<br />
Is this all “Much Adoe About Nothing”? “The Tempest”<br />
in an English teacup? Or, am I justified in my concerns?<br />
23
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24
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25
By Uknitted Kingdom<br />
“BEGGING”<br />
The Mysterious Mrs. Major<br />
In December 2021, Adella Colvin, of LolaBean Yarn<br />
Co., posted the following on Instagram:<br />
“Bean would like to raise a few dollars for her favorite<br />
teacher who teaches diversity and inclusiveness in her<br />
lessons and makes all of<br />
her kiddos feel special…<br />
She pays for lots of stuff<br />
out of pocket and we’d<br />
like to help with some of<br />
that. We’ll match the donations<br />
up to $500!<br />
CASHAPP: $ADELLA-<br />
COLVIN.”<br />
The post was accompanied<br />
by a photo of<br />
Adella’s daughter.<br />
At first glance, this<br />
seems like a very kind<br />
and considerate thing to<br />
do. However, in my opinion,<br />
Adella is a racist,<br />
black supremacist bully,<br />
so something about her sudden kindness and<br />
generosity was bothering me. Alarm bells were<br />
ringing but I couldn’t quite figure out why.<br />
The first aspect of this post that concerned me<br />
was that Adella was collecting the money into her<br />
own private account on the Cash App payment<br />
service. This meant that there wasn’t a third party<br />
that could ensure that all the funds raised went to<br />
the teacher.<br />
The second aspect was that in the UK at least,<br />
teachers are not permitted to accept money from<br />
the parents of pupils. Christmas and end-of-year gifts are<br />
allowed, but accepting money would lead to a formal<br />
disciplinary hearing and possibly dismissal. Parents giving<br />
money to teachers can be interpreted as bribery and<br />
could leave the teacher open to accusations of favoritism<br />
and/or grade tampering.<br />
The third aspect was that, although teachers do pay<br />
for some stationery and equipment out of their own<br />
pockets, if the school is underfunded and short of resources<br />
a parent would be better advised to raise<br />
money for the school as opposed to an individual<br />
teacher.<br />
It turned out I wasn’t alone in my concerns. Two other<br />
Instagrammers contacted me about this and one had<br />
contacted the Georgia School Board to check the guidelines<br />
on teachers accepting money from parents. Someone<br />
from the School Board contacted Adella and as a<br />
result, she shared the following on Instagram.<br />
Alongside the unverified financial details, Adella attached<br />
a screenshot from her<br />
Gmail account thanking “Mrs.<br />
Major” for performing a “great<br />
public service.” [See above.]<br />
Adella also included a<br />
screenshot of a note from<br />
“Angela Major,” the<br />
teacher, thanking her<br />
for the money. This particular<br />
screenshot is<br />
troubling. The email is<br />
from a personal Gmail<br />
account, not an official<br />
school account.<br />
Teachers shouldn’t be<br />
sharing personal email<br />
addresses with parents.<br />
Begging Continued on next page<br />
26
Begging Continued from Page 26<br />
Gmail accounts are notoriously easy to create and<br />
need no official ID verification. A user can create any<br />
number of accounts with any names available.<br />
The teacher says, “We don’t get a lot of recognition.”<br />
As a former teacher, this is a phrase that doesn’t ring true.<br />
Teachers receive lots of recognition.<br />
It’s money they don’t<br />
receive much of!<br />
Then the clincher. “Thank<br />
you so much for your kind<br />
words and for all the support<br />
you guys give Lola to help her<br />
be a confident successful<br />
kiddo.”<br />
Teachers should not thank<br />
pupils’ parents for helping<br />
their own children. Surely this<br />
is an expectation and not<br />
something to be credited as<br />
extraordinary or special. Isn’t<br />
it a parent’s job to support<br />
their children’s endeavors?<br />
Mrs. Major uses the word<br />
“kiddo.” This is the same word<br />
used by Adella in her fundraising<br />
text. In a Live Instagram<br />
on 6th January 2022<br />
Adella also used the term<br />
“kiddo.” Unusual? Maybe.<br />
Maybe not. I tend to notice<br />
patterns in speech and<br />
written words. Through teaching<br />
and marking assignments, I<br />
became quite adept at recognizing<br />
when a student was<br />
guilty of plagiarism. We all<br />
have verbal tics, preferred or<br />
consistent vocabulary, and a<br />
writing style (including patterns<br />
in errors) that make it easy, not<br />
necessarily to identify the<br />
writer, but usually to exclude<br />
them from being the likely<br />
writer.<br />
The readiness with which<br />
Angela Major gave her Paypal account is also notable.<br />
The Paypal account Adella shared is simply in the name of<br />
“Major.”<br />
I decided to try to find Mrs. Major. Finding her on the<br />
school faculty list would alleviate some of my concerns.<br />
Adella had previously shared details of her daughter’s<br />
school and a simple staff search on the school website<br />
shows that Angela Major does not work there.<br />
I wondered if Adella deliberately misled her followers<br />
into thinking her daughter attended this<br />
school to avoid any unwanted contact.<br />
So I checked with all the elementary<br />
schools in the area. Angela Major doesn’t<br />
work at any of them.<br />
I double-checked with another elementary<br />
school (with the same name in<br />
the same State). Angela Major doesn’t<br />
work there either.<br />
I contacted the school and, unfortunately,<br />
because of recent media attention<br />
regarding an employee and<br />
meth, they did not accept my email<br />
(most likely because I’m overseas). For<br />
me, this trail has run cold.<br />
To be clear, although I have my own<br />
suspicions as to the nature of what is<br />
going on here, I am not accusing Adella<br />
Colvin of any wrongdoing. I am accusing<br />
her of deceiving her Instagram followers.<br />
There may be a perfectly<br />
reasonable explanation for the mysterious<br />
teacher and a perfectly good reason<br />
for the deception. However, if I was<br />
one of the generous donors, I would be<br />
asking Adella some hard questions!<br />
There is something particularly distasteful<br />
about using your child’s image to<br />
beg for money over the internet. It’s also<br />
unethical to beg for money from<br />
strangers on the internet to give to a person<br />
in receipt of a teaching salary simply<br />
because she “teaches diversity and inclusiveness<br />
in her lessons and makes all of<br />
her kiddos feel special.”<br />
Adella is not without means. Asking<br />
her followers to reward her daughter’s<br />
teacher, rather than doing it herself,<br />
shows just how willing Adella is to manipulate<br />
her followers.<br />
Adella isn’t alone in begging from internet followers.<br />
And, before accusations of racism are liberally thrown<br />
around, begging isn’t restricted to any particular race of<br />
knitter/crocheter/dyer/shop.<br />
Begging Continued on next page<br />
27
Begging Continued from Page 27<br />
The Italian Job<br />
In the UK, Woolly Wormhead, a British hat<br />
designer, is currently in the process of begging<br />
for donations from her followers on Gofundme.<br />
The first campaign raised €14,232 ($15,453.39)<br />
of her €17,500 ($19,001.85) goal to help her<br />
“lead a happier life.” This money went towards<br />
buying a home in Italy.<br />
After buying the home, Wormhead<br />
launched a second Gofundme account. Currently,<br />
she has raised £2,902<br />
($3,592.59) of her £7,500<br />
($92,84.77) goal to “help [her]<br />
with [her] new home”! (The currencies<br />
are correct as are their<br />
equivalencies as of 28 January<br />
2023.)<br />
In addition, she is begging<br />
her followers to buy her home<br />
furnishings from Amazon and<br />
Ikea wishlists. Except for an Ikea<br />
mattress, none of the items on<br />
these lists could be considered<br />
essential.<br />
To add insult to injury (for a<br />
Brit), Wormhead made the following<br />
statement, “We’re unable<br />
to access many of the financial<br />
benefits that could help us due<br />
to Brexit and its impact on British<br />
citizens living abroad.”<br />
Unless you live in the UK or<br />
pay tax in the UK, this might not<br />
be something you understand.<br />
In the UK, regardless of<br />
wealth, income, or working status, everyone that has a<br />
child under the age of 16 (and older in some cases of<br />
disability) receives welfare in the name of each child. The<br />
richest and the poorest receive the same. It is the largest<br />
percentage of Benefit (welfare) payments made by the<br />
government. Unemployment and disability payments are<br />
a tiny fraction of the overall budget compared with child<br />
benefits and state pensions.<br />
Low-income parents can also claim a benefit called<br />
“Working Tax Credits.” Unemployed and/or disabled parents<br />
have access to many other benefits in addition to<br />
Child Benefit. For some, it can be more lucrative to be<br />
unemployed than it is to work for a living.<br />
Having the audacity to ask for money whilst<br />
surrounded by 'stuff' begs the question,<br />
how much more do you need? Feeling as<br />
though you have the 'privilege' to ask<br />
others to fund your lifestyle choices, rather<br />
than to purchase your products, takes<br />
some guts.<br />
Wormhead wanted to eat her cake<br />
and have it too by moving to Italy, yet<br />
still wanted to claim all the benefits<br />
available to those in the UK. If the<br />
“marvelous” EU will not support her<br />
and her family in Italy, why should UK<br />
taxpayers?<br />
Wormhead has stated that she is<br />
VAT registered. This means that in<br />
Italy her business must have an annual<br />
gross turnover of more than<br />
€65,000 ($70,578.30).<br />
https://www.vatcalc.com/eu/2023-euvat-registration-intrastat-thresholds/<br />
A business can choose to VAT register<br />
if the annual turnover is below the threshold, but it<br />
simply isn’t worth it. It is considered madness to register<br />
a business that has a lower turnover. It is illegal to have a<br />
turnover of more than the annual threshold without registering<br />
for VAT.<br />
In the UK, the VAT threshold is currently £85,000<br />
($105,227.45) per annum. Whether Wormhead is registered<br />
for VAT in Italy or in the UK, she should be able to<br />
draw down an income from her business.<br />
I can’t help but think that these serial grifters are<br />
laughing at their donors.<br />
Begging Continued on next page<br />
28
Begging Continued from Page 28<br />
UberEat Me<br />
Another person known to beg online is Fatimah Hinds,<br />
of Disturbing the Fleece.<br />
Her example isn’t as audacious as Wormhead’s but is<br />
still notable. In September 2022, Hinds was regularly visiting<br />
a family member in hospital. She begged her followers<br />
to pay her hospital parking fees, her lunches, and requested<br />
Uber Eats Canada gift card certificates. In an outof-character<br />
move, Hinds even waived her “no DM” rule,<br />
but only for those donating money for Uber Eats.<br />
Buy My Free Breast Removal<br />
The British yarn dyer Stranded Dyeworks, currently living<br />
in Scotland, begged followers to pay for an elective<br />
double-mastectomy in order to pass as male instead of female.<br />
This is a free NHS surgical procedure. The £10,150<br />
($12,565.40) raised of the £10,000 ($12,379.70) goal was<br />
purely to bypass the 2-year NHS waiting list.<br />
It will be interesting to wait and see if Stranded also<br />
tries to raise money for the necessary ongoing hormone<br />
treatment as, with all prescribed drugs in Scotland and<br />
Wales*, Testosterone is also free to NHS patients.<br />
*NHS patients living in England are the only British residents<br />
that have to pay for prescription drugs at a current<br />
cost of £9.35 ($11.58) per item.<br />
Opinions on medical transitioning are not the issue<br />
here. The issue is begging for money to pay for a free surgical<br />
procedure.<br />
Beyond Begging and Radical Requests<br />
Businesses such as Beyond Yarn regularly beg for<br />
money to keep their businesses afloat.<br />
More recently, the amateur magazine Radicle (sic)<br />
Threads has been begging for money in order to publish<br />
their next issue. Each issue has a cover price of $30, so<br />
why have the publishers not budgeted for the next issue<br />
from the sales of the previous 2 issues? Sadly, when businesses<br />
can’t survive on the profits from their sales, the<br />
business is no longer viable. By charging 3 times the cover<br />
price of magazines such as Vogue Knitting Magazine, has<br />
Radicle Threads priced itself out of the market?<br />
“A beggar hates his benefactor as much as<br />
he hates himself for begging.”<br />
– Oscar Wilde<br />
“Beggars market their incapacity.”<br />
– Mason Cooley<br />
PATRONAGE vs. Begging<br />
It's important to differentiate fundraising where the donor receives something in return from those<br />
that do not. For example, Sockmatician received donations to finance the writing of his book (release<br />
date TBC). In effect, this was a pre-order as each donor will receive a copy of the book once it is published.<br />
If the fundraiser had been to pay his rent, and the donor received nothing in return, then it would<br />
be unethical.<br />
Likewise, Patreon accounts, such as Fruity Knitting and The Bakery Bears, allow content to be provided<br />
for free. Much like Blocked Magazine, Fruity and the Bakery Bears have overheads to cover but do<br />
not charge people for that content. Generous patrons donate to assist in the production. It would not be<br />
appropriate to have patrons if viewers and readers were charged for the content as well.<br />
When you see online personalities fundraising, step back for a moment and ask yourself:<br />
• Is it a registered charity?<br />
• If not, what do you receive in return for your donation?<br />
• Is the goal a cover for poor financial decisions or management?<br />
• Is the goal greedy or extravagant, such as buying an expensive car or house?<br />
• Is the goal to help someone in genuine need?<br />
Whatever the answer, it isn’t for me to lecture anyone on how to spend their own money. If you want<br />
to donate to someone that is clearly running a grift, do so. But please, know what you’re entering into.<br />
29
YOUR<br />
By D. Marie Prokop<br />
Darkest Dress<br />
From the forthcoming novel The Good Shepherd<br />
“Thank you for letting me borrow this beautiful bonnet,<br />
Mrs. Wickersham,” Leona said. Her thin fingers caressed<br />
the black velvet lining.<br />
Mrs. Wickersham grabbed Leona’s old, gray, motheaten<br />
bonnet from the dresser and threw it in the bin.<br />
She pressed her lips taut.<br />
“Black is the appropriate color for a funeral. At least<br />
you have a black bonnet now. I should have ordered a<br />
black dress for you to have on hand for such ominous occasions,<br />
but one never expects death. Attending two funerals<br />
so close together is quite unusual, don’t you<br />
agree?”<br />
“Yes, Mrs. Wickersham,” the girl replied.<br />
“Is this your darkest dress?” the dowager asked. She<br />
frowned at the gray plaid frock Leona wore for the second<br />
time that week, a hand-me-down from the dear girl<br />
whose funeral they attended yesterday. Leona wiped a<br />
tear from her eye before the widow caught sight of it. She<br />
cleared her throat.<br />
“Yes, Mrs. Wickersham. It belonged to Justine. She outgrew<br />
it.”<br />
“Oh, poor Justine. The woods are a dangerous place<br />
these days. Lord have mercy.”<br />
“Yes, ma’am.”<br />
The old dowager tied the bonnet’s ribbons into a bow<br />
under Leona’s dimpled chin.<br />
“I don’t understand how it happened. Justine was a vulnerable<br />
young lady, but Luke Harris was quite a strapping<br />
young man. Whatever creature is in those woods must be<br />
fierce indeed. The magistrate is in a right bind trying to<br />
calm this town.”<br />
Mrs. Wickersham peered out the window to view some<br />
travelers on the road. Everyone in Framingham appeared<br />
to be making their way to attend today’s funeral.<br />
“We must stay strong, Leona. It’s the women folk who<br />
keep a community going, you hear me? When the men<br />
take off to fight another war, or drink themselves into a<br />
damned grave and leave you a widow, it’s us women who<br />
carry on and rebuild. You may think you’re just a poor little<br />
orphan girl, but you are more, much more, Leona.<br />
Being female is a privilege. By God’s mercy, we are overcomers.<br />
Promise me you’ll remember that.”<br />
“I promise, Mrs. Wickersham,” Leona said.<br />
The widow’s beautiful home wasn’t Leona’s first refuge,<br />
and it wouldn’t be her last. But Leona owed her life to the<br />
charitable widow. True to her beliefs, the widow spent the<br />
last year caring for Leona, a stranger, as if she were kin.<br />
After wandering the Massachusetts countryside for<br />
months, a frightful storm had forced Leona to seek refuge.<br />
She found it on the covered porch of a massive<br />
white-framed house, the lightning causing it to shine like<br />
a lighthouse. She collapsed on the porch swing just as<br />
the housemaid, Nellie, came out to rescue the potted<br />
chrysanthemums.<br />
Nellie’s daughter, Justine, was buried yesterday. Today<br />
they interred the local caretaker’s nephew, Luke Harris.<br />
Luke’s uncle was Mrs. Wickersham’s groundskeeper.<br />
“I haven’t seen Mr. Harris since they found Luke’s body.<br />
I wonder if he’ll come to the funeral. Chester claims he’s<br />
lying in the cellar cradling a bottle of whiskey. I should’ve<br />
fired that drunkard years ago. He goes missing for days.<br />
Always has,” Mrs. Wickersham said.<br />
Leona closed her eyes. She hadn’t slept well all week,<br />
even though, as Mrs. Wickersham’s ward, she was given<br />
the fanciest bed in the mansion. The glorious feather mattress<br />
once belonged to Mrs. Wickersham’s mother. The<br />
rest of the household slept on muslin bladders stuffed<br />
with straw. But all the luxury in the world couldn’t bring<br />
Leona rest. She was especially burdened, destined for a<br />
lifetime of nightmares. Horses whinnied outside the front<br />
door of the parlor.<br />
“That’ll be Chester with the carriage,” Mrs. Wickersham<br />
said, exiting the room.<br />
Leona followed her, taking tentative steps. She stopped<br />
in front of the large stained glass window on the north<br />
parlor wall, a unique portrayal of Jesus, the Good Shepherd.<br />
In his right hand, he held a crooked staff. In his left<br />
hand, he cradled a wooly lamb. A wolf lurked amongst<br />
the trees in the background.<br />
“Leona, come,” the widow said.<br />
They arrived at the cemetery behind St. John’s Presbyterian<br />
Church at dusk. This year, the brisk fall introduced<br />
the usually peaceful New England town to paranoia and<br />
fear. As the carriage rumbled along, Leona stared at the<br />
30<br />
Black Dress Continued on page 31
Darkest Dress Continued...<br />
tired sky streaked with red and orange. A full moon waited<br />
its turn in the center of the horizon.<br />
Leona first met the deceased, Luke Harris, on a cold winter<br />
day last year. She had been exploring the grounds and<br />
found herself trapped in the hedge maze like an animal as<br />
the last vestiges of heat exuded from the setting sun. Curled<br />
into a ball on the snow-laden path, Leona fought to keep<br />
warm. The next thing she knew, a strong, muscular arm<br />
pulled her up. A young man held her elbow as he guided<br />
her back to the main house, his long dirty fingernails pressing<br />
through her sleeve. Justine introduced him as the<br />
groundskeeper’s nephew, Luke.<br />
When Leona lifted her face to thank him, she couldn’t<br />
speak. She froze all over again as soon as she viewed his icy<br />
blue eyes. For years, eyes like his had appeared in her<br />
dreams. She obsessed over them, though not in a romantic<br />
sense. It was an obsession much less pleasant.<br />
Besides, Luke loved Justine, and it was obvious Justine<br />
welcomed his affections. Her thin cheeks flushed every time<br />
he entered the room. Leona sensed they’d become more<br />
than mere admirers months ago. Nellie, Justine’s mother,<br />
didn’t know. It wasn’t Leona’s place to tell her. Besides, she<br />
had other concerns.<br />
Those icy blue eyes were now trapped inside a pine coffin,<br />
but they continued to haunt Leona. For her, blue-rimmed<br />
irises symbolized failure. The preacher’s low voice interrupted<br />
Leona’s thoughts.<br />
“’Yea, though I walk through the valley of the shadow of<br />
death, I will fear no evil, for Thou art with me. Thy rod and<br />
Thy staff, they comfort me.’”<br />
Pallbearers lowered the casket into the freshly-dug grave.<br />
Leona scratched her collarbone. She considered the garment<br />
she wore today that, like her, was more. The dark dress<br />
was a smart wool tartan with silver weft threads. Its beauty<br />
was twofold. A simple, yet attractive style, it also kept out the<br />
cold and repelled stains.<br />
Mrs. Wickersham’s gift—the black bonnet—weighed on<br />
Leona’s petite head, resting on the twisted bun of kinked<br />
ebony hair gathered at the nape of her neck. Her coifed<br />
mass of dark curls was pierced with a silver hairpin, the only<br />
item of her mother’s she possessed after her parents died,<br />
leaving her a wandering orphan. Leona was never truly alone<br />
though. Death accompanied her like a shadow.<br />
A long howl from the nearby forest interrupted the<br />
preacher’s Old Testament reading. The circle of mourners<br />
gasped. Mothers clutched their children, and the men’s eyes<br />
scanned the woods for movement as they reached for their<br />
rifles.<br />
“Everyone, remain calm!” the magistrate shouted. He gathered<br />
his deputies and they approached the tree line located<br />
a few yards away from the cemetery. The fearsome bellow of<br />
the mysterious predator, longer and louder this time, caused<br />
some of the men to step back.<br />
Mrs. Wickersham’s eyes followed the men progressing into<br />
the forest. She turned to Leona.<br />
Her chair was empty.<br />
“Leona, where are you?”<br />
The forest was littered with fallen leaves and dead<br />
branches, but Leona’s footsteps were silent. She glided<br />
through the trees in search of the creature. As she tracked<br />
the beast, she remembered the pale blue eyes of the animal<br />
that ripped out Justine’s throat. Leona had arrived on the<br />
scene too late to save her.<br />
Mrs. Wickersham didn’t know how right she was. Leona<br />
was indeed more than a poor little orphan girl. She possessed<br />
an ancient strength and an ancient burden.<br />
Turning at the sound of a cracking limb, Leona faced the<br />
beast. Clouds of hot breath puffed into the chilly air from its<br />
snarling snout as it paced back and forth over the dead foliage.<br />
The impatient moon pierced the trees and illuminated<br />
the frosty ground.<br />
“Mr. Harris, why didn’t you tell Luke about his heritage? He<br />
just turned eighteen. You promised to explain things to him<br />
before the next full moon. We could have helped him handle<br />
his condition. Now Justine is dead. And their baby.”<br />
The groundskeeper, in the form of a gray and brown wolf<br />
with silver-blue eyes, growled and leaned back on its<br />
haunches. Mr. Harris was gone. The animal before her possessed<br />
no reason or logic, only the instinct to attack first.<br />
“Don’t fight me. You’ll lose,” Leona threatened.<br />
Without hesitation, the wolf lunged.<br />
Leona thrust her mother’s sterling silver hairpin into its<br />
hairy throat and waited for the life to drain out of its icy blue<br />
eyes. The animal’s blood dripped on her dark dress.<br />
Back at the grave, a mourner tossed a shovelful of dirt<br />
onto Luke Harris’s casket.<br />
Sign up for D. Marie’s Author Newsletter at daysoftheguardian@wordpress.com<br />
for book release announcements<br />
and other news. Thanks for reading! *** All Rights Reserved.<br />
This excerpt may not be copied or quoted without the permission<br />
of the author. “The Good Shepherd” by D. Marie<br />
Prokop © 2017<br />
31
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