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Unless otherwise indicated the information, articles, artwork,<br />

patterns and photography published in <strong>BLOCKED</strong> Magazine<br />

are subject to copyright ©2024 <strong>BLOCKED</strong> Magazine.<br />

All rights reserved.<br />

TEAM <strong>BLOCKED</strong><br />

Editor in Chief<br />

Neil James<br />

For all enquiries:<br />

blockedmagazine@gmx.com<br />

Layouts, Graphics, and Ads<br />

BS Designs<br />

Copy Editor, Tech Editor,<br />

Head of Games/Puzzles Content<br />

Cézanne Pellett<br />

Head of Review Content<br />

Katie Gerwien<br />

Joint Heads of Geographical<br />

and Historical Content<br />

Yelena of Scythia<br />

Amy D<br />

Cover Photography<br />

Anne Pinkava<br />

Content Writers<br />

Jo-Bob<br />

Katie Gerwein<br />

Tabitha of Murderknits<br />

Uknitted Kingdom<br />

Editorial Assistants<br />

Denise Pettus<br />

Karen Juliano<br />

Laura Neubauer<br />

Pattern Designers<br />

Anne Pinkava<br />

Liz Clothier<br />

Mockingbirdsrealm<br />

Tabitha of Murderknits<br />

Uknitted Kingdom

Dear Readers,<br />

Welcome to issue <strong>14</strong>!<br />

Many (but not all) of the articles and patterns in this issue are related to the theme of “Bear<br />

Arms.” Contributors were invited to interpret the theme in any way they chose. Some chose the<br />

2nd amendment right to “bear arms,” some chose bare arms, and some chose the arms of a bear.<br />

We even have a bare bear bearing arms in his bare bear arms! Try saying that ten times.<br />

In this issue, we have a brand-new knitting technique from Anne Pinkava of the Politically<br />

Incorrect Knitters https://www.youtube.com/@politicallyincorrectknitters. Anne has invented a<br />

unique, never-before-seen increase. She has named it “The Braided Increase.” You’ll find her<br />

pattern using this increase and a link to an instructional video on page 23.<br />

We also have some new features, including:<br />

Pattern Reviews<br />

The lovely Jo-Bob of the Knit Nite YouTube channel https://www.youtube.com/@knitnite will<br />

be regularly reviewing patterns she has bought, knitted, not knitted, tinked, frogged, worn, given<br />

away, thrown in time-out, and/or thrown in the trash. Jo-Bob isn’t afraid to speak her mind and<br />

her reviews will have the same no-nonsense approach. Although the flaws of a pattern might be<br />

highlighted, you can be sure the positives of a pattern will also be.<br />

If you’re a designer and Jo-Bob critiques one of your patterns, please do not take it as a<br />

personal attack. Trust me, if you listen to, and act upon, her feedback, your future designs will<br />

be better. Likewise, if she should praise your pattern, don’t let it go to your head but do keep<br />

up the good work!<br />

Cross Stitch<br />

You’ll notice in this issue that we have included several cross stitch charts. We intend<br />

to have at least one or two cross stitch patterns in every issue from <strong>14</strong> onwards.<br />

For my own cross stitch designs, I intend to have a theme each year of five or six charts.<br />

Each chart will make an individual piece or can be combined with the other four or five to<br />

create a set or a larger combined piece. Other cross stitch designers will be contributing<br />

individual or combined charts at different points in the year.<br />

I’m looking for ideas for a cross stitch theme for the 6 issues of 2025. If there’s a theme<br />

you wish was available, let me know, and I’ll see if it’s something I can create. No promises!<br />

Please let your stitching friends know and share the link. https://linktr.ee/blockedmagazine<br />

Enjoy this issue and, as always, Get Blocked!<br />

Yours faithfully,<br />

Neil<br />

Editor-in-Chief<br />


y Murder Knits<br />

Balls and Ammo<br />

I married the first guy I dated who didn’t make fun of me<br />

for my knitting hobby.<br />

I began knitting in sixth grade when my pastor’s wife<br />

taught me. I rode the bus to their house every Tuesday.<br />

Pastor offered me a snack when I got off the bus or<br />

grossed me out with what he was cooking for dinner. My<br />

first time trying goulash made me gag and my pastor<br />

rolled with laughter.<br />

Ann and I would move to the study to begin our lessons.<br />

I spent hours going through her pattern library, mostly<br />

made up of Family Circle knitting magazines. My first project<br />

was a scarf out of Red Heart Super Saver. It was light<br />

brown with red and orange speckles.<br />

I spent middle school knitting here and there but picked<br />

it up more in high school when my home life went south. I<br />

spent my nights after school knitting and listening to<br />

Coast-to-Coast AM with George Noory. I brought my knitting<br />

to school and knit during lunch break and lectures.<br />

My first two boyfriends teased me and called me<br />

“Grandma.” They asked me not to bring my knitting when<br />

we were going places.<br />

When I met Tom, I didn’t tell him right away that I was a<br />

knitter. I didn’t want my hobby to ruin this relationship. He<br />

saw my knitting in my room one day and asked about it. I<br />

showed him the project I was working on, a baby sweater<br />

for my pregnant English teacher. He said, “cool,” and that<br />

was it. No derogatory comments, no snide remarks.<br />

I eventually brought my projects along for truck rides<br />

and visits to his house. I was never asked to put my knitting<br />

away. His parents always asked about my projects.<br />

Our favorite dates involved truck rides up to the mountain.<br />

I brought my knitting and Tom packed a of couple<br />

guns. He would target practice and I would knit.<br />

We got pregnant with Chesney at the end of our senior<br />

year. His parents moved me into their house. I knit for<br />

Chesney and my in-laws while pregnant. My mother-in-law<br />

still has the blankets I made as a thank-you gift for taking<br />

me under her wing 16 years ago.<br />

Over the years, my hobby of knitting/yarn buying and<br />

Tom’s gun collection have both grown. The yarn/gun<br />

room shares the same space. Usually, a skein is hanging<br />

off of a deer antler that holds the gun. We often joke<br />

about opening a yarn/gun ammo shop together. “Balls &<br />

Ammo – Yarn in the front, Guns in the back.”<br />

Our date nights are now spent at home where Tom<br />

cooks steak on the BBQ and I knit while he cooks. He<br />

watches gun shows while I do the dishes, then it's back to<br />

our chairs. I knit while he continues his show. Target practice<br />

in the mountains now involves our kids. The girls and I<br />

knit in between shooting the target. We will celebrate 16<br />

years of marriage this July. Sixteen years of combining our<br />

hobbies. Sixteen years of respecting each other with our<br />

crafts. Sixteen years of Tom funding my yarn collection.<br />

Sixteen years, three kids, 30+ guns, and 1000+ balls of<br />

yarn.<br />

4<br />

Continued on next page...

SOUTH BY<br />


by Murder Knits<br />

YARN<br />

A 2 skein dk-weight shawl.<br />

Sample is knitted in Knitty McPurly Dresden DK.<br />


Darning needle<br />

Stitch marker<br />

Scissors<br />

GAUGE<br />

No gauge, No rules, No worries.<br />

Another Murder Knits,<br />

Murder She Wrote Shawl.<br />


Cast on 3 sts.<br />

Knit 1 row.<br />

K1, m1, knit to end.<br />

Knit to end.<br />

Rep last 2 rows until you run out of yarn.<br />

Join new yarn.<br />

K1, ssk, knit to end (make sure the<br />

decreases and increases are on the<br />

same side to maintain the triangle shape)<br />

Knit 1 row.<br />

Rep last 2 rows until 3 sts rem.<br />

Cast off.<br />

Weave in all ends and block.<br />

Wear while solving a murder in the desert.<br />


y Tabitha of murderknits<br />

Bear Stew<br />

This recipe requires that you actually know how to cook. No<br />

measurements, use your brain and summon your inner Julia<br />

Child.<br />

Stuff you need:<br />

bear meat - cut into chunks<br />

salt and pepper<br />

whatever spices you feel like<br />

a beer<br />

bacon grease<br />

onion<br />

a whole head of garlic<br />

celery<br />

carrots<br />

(If you don't have celery or carrots don’t worry no one eats that<br />

shit when it's in the stew.)<br />

potatoes<br />

ketchup or tomato paste (Whichever you have)<br />

Worcestershire sauce<br />

broth<br />

Pre-heat oven to 275 degrees.<br />

1. Put the bacon grease in a pot, use a pot that comes with a lid; I use a Dutch oven. Turn the stove burner<br />

on medium.<br />

2. Pat your meat dry or it takes too long to brown. Sprinkle the meat with salt and pepper. Put the meat in<br />

the pot, don’t crowd the meat or it will turn gray. Once meat is browned on all sides (but not cooked all the<br />

way) put the meat on a plate or bowl. 3. Cut up the onion and whole-ass head of garlic. Add these to the pot<br />

that had the meat in it. Cook until caramelized. Pour a whole beer in the pot. Add the cut up carrots and<br />

celery. Include the celery leaves, they have more flavor. Add whatever spices you want - get creative here.<br />

Add your ketchup or tomato paste. Stop when it looks good. Stir.<br />

4. Put the meat and all the blood juices back in the pot. Add enough broth to cover all the meat. If you run<br />

out of broth use water or more beer. Stir.<br />

5. Once this comes to a boil, not a violent boil but like half way, cover and put in the oven. Cook until the<br />

meat falls apart, usually a couple hours. Serve with potatoes: mashed, baked, or fried.<br />

Bonus points if you make gravy from the stew juices.<br />


y Uknitted Kingdom<br />

Men’s PLUS Sizes<br />

(or Husky Bear Knits)<br />

In a recent conversation with a regular contributor and<br />

Blocked team member, I was reminded that the term<br />

“bear” is used in certain circles (mostly gay men) to describe<br />

big, hairy, bearded men. This isn’t used to describe<br />

the internal feelings of the individual, such as with the<br />

mentally ill “Therians” or “Otherkins” -<br />

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Otherkin but rather a term<br />

to describe a physical category. The categories are used<br />

by gay men when describing both homosexual and heterosexual<br />

men.<br />

Within the “Bear” category there are several<br />

sub-categories, including:<br />

• Bear (big/fat, hairy, bearded men)<br />

• Muscle bear (muscled, hairy, bearded men).<br />

• Polar bear (big/fat, hairy, white-haired older men).<br />

• Cub (younger, less hairy men with stubble or no beard).<br />

• Otter (thin hairy men).<br />

• Fox (thin, hairy, white or silver-haired older men).<br />

• There is even a category to include fat, hairy women,<br />

“Ursula” or “Bruin.”<br />

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bear_(gay_culture)<br />

After studying the information, I have to admit to having<br />

more questions than answers. Some of the questions<br />

could perhaps be dismissed as irrelevant or not applicable<br />

to knitwear by a more experienced designer.<br />

So read on, not expecting to be told those answers but<br />

to consider and ponder whether the questions I ask<br />

should or shouldn’t be a factor in knitwear design.<br />

If we compare the ASTM image for a size-46 man with a<br />

size-64 man, one can see that grading the size up and<br />

down looks relatively simple.<br />

As a Santa lookalike, I would be categorized as a polar<br />

bear. Personally, I find it cute and harmless and have no<br />

objection to being objectified as a polar bear!

Husky Bear Knits Continued...<br />

by Uknitted Kingdom<br />

Here, the difference in the neck and arms (especially the<br />

upper arms) becomes more pronounced and the belly is an<br />

entirely different shape and volume.<br />

In terms of sweater construction, the first question I have<br />

is based on the center vertical axis running from the crown<br />

of the head down to the ankle. Theoretically, this is the line<br />

where the seam of a sweater would join the back piece to<br />

the front piece. With size-64 the back piece doesn’t appear<br />

to need to be as wide as the front piece. If an average of<br />

the front and back width was made, any subsequent seam<br />

(if not knitting in the round) likely is not going to sit correctly.<br />

Moving to the natural waistline (where the navel is found),<br />

this is just below the widest part of the belly. The belly appears<br />

to have a flatter, less rounded appearance at this<br />

point. Tailors and image consultants would recommend a<br />

large man wear his trouser waistband/belt at this point.<br />

Many large men prefer to wear their belts/waistbands much<br />

lower, below the belly. The belly then hangs over the front<br />

of the trousers. There are differing opinions on which version<br />

looks better, appears more slimming, is more fashionable,<br />

and is more comfortable. Both have a place in<br />

different scenarios (casual or formal, for example).<br />

Comparing the front of the garment to the back; for size-<br />

64 if the front piece was the same length as the back piece<br />

there might not be enough fabric to cover the lower belly.<br />

I have never seen a man’s knit or crochet sweater pattern<br />

which has made any allowances for the significant difference<br />

between the height and width of the front compared<br />

to the back. It seems an average is made of the overall circumference<br />

and then the knitter just hopes for the best.<br />

Any length adjustments are made to both front and back,<br />

creating a garment too long at the back or too short at the<br />

front.<br />

Should designers be grading up men’s sweaters to be<br />

longer and wider at the front and less so at the back? Are<br />

belly darts something to be considered? Or, more likely, am<br />

I overthinking this?<br />

It seems the knitters of old already had the answer for the<br />

portly gentleman. In Mary Thomas’s Knitting Book, first<br />

published in 1938, page 230, she says, “Spiral Ribbing was<br />

often used by the old-fashioned folk when knitting jerseys<br />

for corpulent figures, as the fabric can be adjusted over the<br />

figure with a slick line. The knitting would be round, and<br />

often done on eight needles.”<br />

- Cast on a multiple of 6. Rib for 6 rounds<br />

in 3 x 3 (k3, p3).<br />

- Move the ribbing one stitch to the right<br />

every 6 rounds.<br />

This stitch pattern is the same one used to knit spiral<br />

socks without a heel. By twisting the fabric around the heel<br />

(and in the case of a sweater, around the belly) the spiral rib<br />

opens out to accommodate the protuberance. I haven’t<br />

tried this method, nor have I seen a sweater using this<br />

method. As utilitarian as it sounds, there is little room for<br />

design elements or variety.<br />

However, for variance and creative elements can’t we just<br />

use the ASTM standards? Before thinking that the ASTM<br />

Standards are the panacea for the plus-sized, the standards<br />

are far from perfect.<br />

Eonyou Shin of Virginia Tech and Elahe Saeidi of Oregon<br />

State University conducted research into the ASTM standards<br />

and found them unfit for purpose. They concluded:<br />

“Three body shapes were categorized for the overweight<br />

and obese men in the United States: Rectangle-curvy<br />

shape, bottom hourglass-hip tilt shape, and top hourglassstraight<br />

shape. Result of this study support discrepancy between<br />

the body shapes and the current ASTM sizing<br />

standards. Overweight and obese men would experience<br />

more fit problems with bottoms than that with tops in both<br />

sizing standards (i.e., the men and the big men sizes). This<br />

study provides practical implications for apparel product<br />

developer in the United States that the sizing systems need<br />

to be updated to give better fit and accommodate different<br />

body shapes in the overweight and obese men.”<br />

8<br />

Continued on next page...

Husky Bear Knits Continued...<br />

Body Shapes and Fit Analysis of ASTM Size Standards<br />

for Overweight and Obese Men in the United States. (Shin<br />

& Saeidi, 2022)<br />

In 2011 Su-Jeong Hwang Shin, Cynthia L. Istook, and Jiinhee<br />

Lee concluded their research into USA menswear<br />

sizing as follows:<br />

Due to the complexity of the human body form, the<br />

methodology used in this study may not be sufficient to<br />

explain, or even uncover all the other possible variables.<br />

Further research needs to be conducted to evaluate these<br />

variables according to established and as yet developed<br />

fit models and 3D technologies.<br />

Various Men's Body Shapes and Drops for Developing<br />

Menswear Sizing Systems in the United States<br />

Article in Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and<br />

Textiles · December 2011 DOI:<br />

10.5850/JKSCT.2011.35.12.<strong>14</strong>54<br />

Based on both research papers, we can conclude that<br />

men’s body shapes are far too varied for any single sizing<br />

system to work. Bearing this in mind, how can any independent<br />

designer be expected to size patterns to fit all<br />

men’s bodies?<br />

Now apply this approach to the variability of women’s<br />

bodies and the scale of the size-inclusivity problem becomes<br />

apparent.<br />

With the standard measurements currently available to<br />

designers, it is impossible for them to size a sweater for<br />

every body.<br />

It would be far easier for individual knitters to learn how<br />

to grade a pattern to suit their own body measurements.<br />

Rather than hounding and hassling designers to produce<br />

a pattern for every size conceivable, might it be<br />

more worthwhile to ask knitting tutors to provide tutorials<br />

demonstrating how to grade a pattern?<br />

The only way you bears and bruins are going to achieve<br />

the Goldilocks sweater, which isn’t too small, isn’t too big,<br />

and fits just right, is to learn to adapt patterns to your<br />

own, unique, one-of-a-kind, body.<br />


DISHIDENT #17<br />

by UKnitted Kingdom<br />


Each issue of Blocked will contain a “secret”<br />

pattern. The design will only be revealed as you<br />

knit. The instructions might uncover an image, design,<br />

word, or message.<br />

When using cotton, these secret squares make<br />

excellent dishcloths. If you make 4 or 5 of each<br />

square in wool or acrylic, they can be seamed<br />

together at the end of the year to make a small<br />

Afghan or lap blanket.<br />


Each dishident uses approximately<br />

41 to 43g of worsted weight 100% cotton.<br />

Follow the yarn manufacturer’s<br />

recommended needle size.<br />


Cast on 45<br />

← Row 1 [RS]: k45<br />

→ Row 2 [WS]: k45<br />

← Row 3 [RS]: k45<br />

→ Row 4 [WS]: k45<br />

← Row 5 [RS]: k45<br />

→ Row 6 [WS]: k45<br />

← Row 7 [RS]: k45<br />

→ Row 8 [WS]: k31, p10, k4<br />

← Row 9 [RS]: k45<br />

→ Row 10 [WS]: k31, p10, k4<br />

← Row 11 [RS]: k45<br />

→ Row 12 [WS]: k30, p11, k4<br />

← Row 13 [RS]: k45<br />

→ Row <strong>14</strong> [WS]: k30, p11, k4<br />

← Row 15 [RS]: k45<br />

→ Row 16 [WS]: k29, p12, k4<br />

← Row 17 [RS]: k45<br />

→ Row 18 [WS]: k29, p12, k4<br />

← Row 19 [RS]: k45<br />

10<br />

Dishident Continued on next page...

Dishident Continued...<br />

→ Row 20 [WS]: k29, p12, k4<br />

← Row 21 [RS]: k45<br />

→ Row 22 [WS]: k29, p12, k4<br />

← Row 23 [RS]: k45<br />

→ Row 24 [WS]: k30, p11, k4<br />

← Row 25 [RS]: k45<br />

→ Row 26 [WS]: k31, p10, k4<br />

← Row 27 [RS]: k45<br />

→ Row 28 [WS]: k32, p9, k4<br />

← Row 29 [RS]: k45<br />

→ Row 30 [WS]: k33, p8, k4<br />

← Row 31 [RS]: k45<br />

→ Row 32 [WS]: k4, p1, k29, p7, k4<br />

← Row 33 [RS]: k45<br />

→ Row 34 [WS]: k4, p2, k28, p7, k4<br />

← Row 35 [RS]: k45<br />

→ Row 36 [WS]: k4, p2, k29, p6, k4<br />

← Row 37 [RS]: k45<br />

→ Row 38 [WS]: k4, p3, k17, p5, k6, p6, k4<br />

← Row 39 [RS]: k45<br />

→ Row 40 [WS]: k4, p4, k4, (k, p2) 2x, k5, p7, k5, p6, k4<br />

← Row 41 [RS]: k45<br />

→ Row 42 [WS]: k4, p5, k4, (p2, k) 2x, k3, p9, k4, p6, k4<br />

← Row 43 [RS]: k45<br />

→ Row 44 [WS]: k4, p5, k4, (p, k3) 2x, k, p7, k6, p6, k4<br />

← Row 45 [RS]: k45<br />

→ Row 46 [WS]: k4, p4, (p, k5, p2) 2x, p4, k, p, k5, p6, k4<br />

← Row 47 [RS]: k26, (mb, k5) 2x, k7<br />

→ Row 48 [WS]: k4, p5, k13, p8, k5, p6, k4<br />

← Row 49 [RS]: k45<br />

→ Row 50 [WS]: k4, p6, k11, p9, k5, p6, k4<br />

← Row 51 [RS]: k45<br />

→ Row 52 [WS]: k4, p4, k15, p6, (p1, k1) 3x, p6, k4<br />

← Row 53 [RS]: k45<br />

→ Row 54 [WS]: k4, p4, (k3, p9) 2x, p9, k4<br />

← Row 55 [RS]: k45<br />

→ Row 56 [WS]: k4, p37, k4<br />

← Row 57 [RS]: k45<br />

→ Row 58 [WS]: k45<br />

← Row 59 [RS]: k45<br />

→ Row 60 [WS]: k45<br />

← Row 61 [RS]: k45<br />

→ Row 62 [WS]: k45<br />

TIPS<br />

If preferred, slip the first OR the last stitch of every row to create a<br />

neater edge. When purling a stitch immediately after knitting a<br />

stitch, pull the excess yarn out of the purl stitch before knitting or<br />

purling on. This helps to reduce loose or baggy knit stitches.<br />

NOTES<br />

Occasionally, a dishident or secret square might not be<br />

suitable for children and “polite company”. This will be made<br />

clear when this is the case.<br />

If you would like to receive notifications of our next issue!<br />

Check out our Patreon!<br />

www.patreon.com/join/BlockedMagazine<br />


By Neil James<br />


Echoes of Scheele’s Green.<br />

12<br />

On a recent Knit Nite YouTube episode, I was made<br />

aware of certification labels on some skeins of yarn,<br />

“OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100.”<br />

Jo Bob showed us the label which none of us had noticed<br />

before.<br />

Quickly reading about the standards on the label, we<br />

learned that whilst using certain yarns, our lives might<br />

have been in mortal danger! Who knew so many toxic<br />

substances could be present in an acrylic blend? Had<br />

there been a hidden repeat of the “Scheele’s Green” arsenic<br />

poisonings of Victorian times?<br />

(https://www.color-name.com/scheelesgreen.color?utm_content=cmp-true),<br />

(https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scheele%27s_Green)<br />

(https://www.theparisreview.org/blog/2018/05/02/scheeles<br />

-green-the-color-of-fake-foliage-and-death/)<br />

Ironically, it was noted that some of the toxic substances<br />

prohibited from the certified yarn are currently present in<br />

several ingredients contained in foods in the USA, and<br />

probably in other countries too.<br />

Having been subjected to decades of onerous, mostly<br />

pointless, and overly bureaucratic EU regulations, I was<br />

naturally suspicious. What is this? Why is it needed? Is it<br />

needed? Who is making money from it? Who is paying for<br />

it? Were we in danger before its implementation? Why is<br />

it a concern now but not before?<br />

I decided to go directly to the source and ask OEKO-<br />

TEX.<br />

The following are the unedited responses to my questions:<br />

1. “Why was the standard introduced for yarn specifically?<br />

Was there an incident or incidents which prompted<br />

it, or was this a pre-emptive measure 'just in case'?”<br />

OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 is a certification that was<br />

introduced for textiles, from raw materials such as yarns to<br />

finished textile products including their accessories.<br />

STANDARD 100 ensures that the products carrying the<br />

label, such as yarns, were tested for a very wide range of<br />

harmful substances.<br />

The label was developed in 1992 enabling consumers to<br />

make informed and safe purchasing decisions.<br />

2. “Is the OEK-TEX standard a legal requirement, or a<br />

voluntary option?”<br />

OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 is a voluntary standard.<br />

However, the requirements defined to obtain the certification<br />

(limit values, i.e., how much of a certain harmful<br />

substance is acceptable in a textile product) are indeed<br />

deduced from different regulations from within the EU<br />

and U.S. and based on the expertise of our own OEKO-<br />

TEX® toxicologists. OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 integrates<br />

worldwide regulations and newest scientific<br />

findings regarding chemicals and harmful substances.<br />

3. “How much does registration cost? Is the cost of registration<br />

typically passed onto the consumer?”<br />

The cost for the STANDARD 100 certification comprises<br />

most of the costs for the licence, the compulsory company<br />

audit and the laboratory and administrative tests.<br />

The precise costs for harmful-substance testing are based<br />

on the testing expenses for the respective textile product<br />

or material. Using already certified source materials, the financial<br />

costs for the laboratory tests can be reduced significantly.<br />

Due to the modular system used in STANDARD<br />

100 certification, the testing costs are distributed across<br />

the companies along the textile chain.<br />

4. “Is animal fibre tested and accredited too, or just cottons,<br />

acrylics, and acrylic blends? If not, why is that?”<br />

The OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 certification tests for<br />

all types of fibres commonly used in the textile industry,<br />

may they be plant-based, animal-based, synthetic or a<br />

mixture thereof. The limit values for harmful substances<br />

are the same, no matter the fibre type.<br />

5a. “Many knitters and crocheters use hand-dyed animal<br />

fibres from small independent dyers. Although it's impossible<br />

to know exactly which dyes they have used, is it possible<br />

that the acid dyes (such as Dharma) would cause the<br />

dyed yarn to fail the standard you apply?”<br />

Chemicals, colourants and auxiliaries that meet the<br />

OEKO-TEX® ECO PASSPORT standard have been tested<br />

and analysed against strict criteria, for a lower environmental<br />

impact.<br />

ECO PASSPORT is recognised as a pre-certification for<br />


Continued on next page...

OEKO-TEX Continued...<br />

Especially for small business, our buying guide will be<br />

helpful to find suppliers for pre-certified yarns (STAND-<br />

ARD 100; or ORGANIC COTTON in case of cotton yarn)<br />

and dyes (ECO PASSPORT): See link below.<br />

5b. “Are independent small 'kitchen-sink' businesses<br />

(such as yarn dyers) able to be registered as compliant, or<br />

might the cost be prohibitive?”<br />

This would have to be evaluated by each business<br />

based on their products and business numbers individually,<br />

whether costs are prohibitive or not.<br />

6. “Do you have a list of the substances you test for in<br />

yarn (specifically)?”<br />

Our OEKO-TEX® RSL list (restricted substance list) is<br />

publicly available (see Annex 4 or 6 of the document for<br />

full chemical list and limit values): See Link Below.<br />

7. “Of the substances from question 6, of these, which<br />

are typically found in yarn?”<br />

This can differ depending on which fibre the yarn is<br />

made of, which (industrial) technology was employed for<br />

its production, which dyes were used etc. For all yarns<br />

certified according to OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100, the<br />

restricted substance list and limit values are globally<br />

valid.<br />

8. “Of the substances from question 6, are you aware if<br />

any of these substances are routinely found in food (including<br />

additives/preservatives, etc) or medication? If so,<br />

which ones?”<br />

There are a lot of hazardous substances included in the<br />

OEKO-TEX® RSL that are relevant in different industries,<br />

including the food and pharmaceutical industry. They<br />

would not be used on purpose but be part of the products<br />

accidentally. For instance, PFAS are a very critical<br />

chemical group utilized as water and oil repellents used<br />

in cookware such as non-stick pans. PFAS also pose a<br />

great health and environmental risk as they contaminate<br />

the environment.<br />

A network of over 21,000 certified companies helps<br />

with easier sourcing. The OEKO-TEX® buying guide<br />

offers access by sorting for different types of products,<br />

such as yarns.<br />

10. “In terms of yarn, what can knitters and crocheters<br />

expect from OEK-TEX standards in the future?”<br />

We use globally standardised test criteria and update<br />

our limited values for harmful substances at least once a<br />

year. STANDARD 100 remains in compliance with international<br />

requirements and regulations and being even<br />

stricter, protecting consumers and people working in the<br />

industry. We always strive to empower the consumer to<br />

make informed purchasing decisions with our Label<br />

Check.<br />

I’m grateful for OEKO-TEX’s speedy response. However,<br />

as expected, the reply is in corporate-speak, designed<br />

to deliver some of the information and swerve<br />

anything incriminating, able to be misconstrued, or legally<br />

difficult for the company.<br />

I’m still skeptical about whether certification is actually<br />

needed. I hold my hands up though, I might well be like<br />

William Morris after learning his wallpaper was killing<br />

people. He was in denial. However, it was revealed he<br />

held shares in the copper mines which produced a crucial<br />

ingredient of the pigment!<br />

Let us know what you think. Does this certification<br />

make you feel safer?<br />

9. “How many yarn producers are currently registered<br />

at OEKO-TEX compliant?”<br />

5. https://www.oeko-tex.com/en/buying-guide<br />

6. https://www.oeko-tex.com/importedmedia/downloadfiles/OEKO-TEX_STANDARD_100_Standard_EN_DE.pdf<br />

9. https://www.oeko-tex.com/en/buying-guide<br />

10. https://www.oeko-tex.com/en/label-check<br />


AND MY<br />

HEART<br />

by Liz Clothier Designs and Anne Pinkava<br />

YARN<br />

• MC – Malabrigo Arroyo (100g/3.53oz, 335yd/306m)<br />

AR429 Cape Cod (You will need approx. 80g/2.8oz, 268y/245m)<br />

• CC – Malabrigo Arroyo (100g/3.53oz, 335yd/306m)<br />

AR870 Candombe (You will need approx. 32g/1.1oz, 108y/99m)<br />


• US Size 4 (3.5mm) 16-inch circular needle<br />

• 8 stitch markers, one being a unique color to signify the beginning of the round.<br />

• Tapestry needle<br />

• Scissors<br />

SIZE<br />

Size is approximately 9.75”/25cm x 12”/30.5cm<br />


With MC cast on 136 stitches and join in the round. Work the first row of the chart, rep it<br />

4 times, placing markers as follows:<br />

Work 27 sts, pm, work 7 sts, pm, rep around. There will be four 27 st sections and four 7<br />

st sections.<br />

Continue following the chart, adding in the CC as indicated. Because there are large<br />

sections of MC that would create very large floats, I used the ladder-back jacquard<br />

technique on either side of the cable sections. There are several tutorials on YouTube,<br />

but the one I used is linked below.<br />

https://youtu.be/UcQns-ON1nw?si=wFjKclrhdFAY-dsy<br />

After completing the last round on the chart, bind off loosely in pattern.<br />

Block and weave in the ends.<br />

Continued on next page...<br />


And My Heart Continued...<br />


y Jo Bob<br />



Hailing from Grande Prairie, Alberta, Canada, Cozy Up<br />

with the Stitchin’ Sisters dropped its first Podcast episode<br />

in early 2017. The two elder sisters, Jamie and<br />

Sarah, launched their chatty forum, giving motivation<br />

credit to the Grocery Girls podcast, as sisters in knitting.<br />

Early in their weekly podcasting, younger twin sisters<br />

Katie and Krissy, mother Jody, and camera-shy Granny<br />

are introduced. My favorite guest is Aunt Jackie with her<br />

indifferent cameos, typically appearing in bathrobes or<br />

house coat attire, (complete with headband) and reverence<br />

for heating and reheating beverages in the microwave.<br />

The Stitchin’ Sisters began as production knitters at a<br />

local market and taught knitting classes. The sisters<br />

soon aligned their podcast branding with their other social<br />

media, renaming the Podcast as Cozy Up Knits.<br />

Although eldest sister Jamie taught her sisters to knit,<br />

second sister Sarah shines with her creative and technical<br />

prowess in designing beginner-friendly knitwear accessories.<br />

She is the brains behind most of the Cozy Up<br />

Knits’ designs, encouraging knitters to hack and modify<br />

any of her designs.<br />

During 2017 and 2018, Sarah designed a special shawl<br />

for each sister. Jamie's shawl was published in November<br />

2017 and is available for purchase as a digital<br />

download from LoveCrafts and Ravelry. This textured triangular<br />

shawl is designed to be knit with either double<br />

knit or worsted-weight yarn. There are separate directions<br />

for additional repetitions and stitch counts for the<br />

DK version.<br />

The shawl is built top down, with a center spine and<br />

edging increases, short bursts of differing textural stitch<br />

patterns to add interest, and a seed stitch border. The<br />

written pattern instructions are easy to read and follow.<br />

Continued on next page...<br />


Cozy Up Continued...<br />

By Jo Bob<br />

While the other three sister shawl designs lend themselves<br />

to semi-solid, variegated, speckled, or tonal<br />

yarns, the Jamie Shawl is more appealing in a solid or<br />

semi-solid, rustic, wooly yarn, producing an “Outlander”<br />

style aesthetic.<br />

All the textural sections are interchangeable with each<br />

other and may be repeated as many times as you<br />

choose. It is a beginner pattern design with knit and purl<br />

stitches, yarn overs, and a special texture stitch.<br />

Materials required:<br />

Worsted weight yarn<br />

Approx. 600 yards<br />

US size 10 (6 mm) needles<br />

4 stitch markers<br />

Or<br />

DK weight yarn<br />

Approx. 725 yards<br />

US Size 7 (4.5 mm) needles<br />

4 stitch markers<br />

I used a semi-worsted weight New Zealand Pure Wool.<br />

A modification I made was to knit into the back of the<br />

stitch on the last step of the bobble stitch instructions.<br />

There are currently 107 patterns published by Cozy Up<br />

Knits on Ravelry. My favorite is the Katie Shawl design<br />

with its endless opportunities to use any color, texture,<br />

and style of yarn for a contemporary knit accessory. Personally,<br />

I found the Jamie Shawl boring to knit. As the<br />

shawl grew in stitches my enthusiasm waned and I mustered<br />

“motivational mute” to complete the knit in Worsted<br />

weight and start a version in DK wool.<br />

On my bucket list is the worsted weight, double-lined,<br />

colorwork Alberta Frost mitten that appeared on their<br />

very first podcast episode.<br />

I'm curious to know; which sister shawl appeals to you<br />

the most? Jamie's Shawl, Sarah's Shawl, Katie's Shawl,<br />

or Krissy's Shawl?<br />

Let's chat about it!<br />

Jo Bob – Commentator<br />

Knit Nite Podcast<br />


-BONUS-<br />


Mystery Square<br />

by Goosemom<br />


Each issue of Blocked will contain a “secret”<br />

pattern. The design will only be revealed as you<br />

knit. The instructions might uncover an image, design,<br />

word, or message.<br />

When using cotton, these secret squares make<br />

excellent dishcloths. If you make 4 or 5 of each<br />

square in wool or acrylic, they can be seamed<br />

together at the end of the year to make a small<br />

Afghan or lap blanket.<br />


Each dishident uses approximately<br />

41 to 43g of worsted weight 100% cotton.<br />

Follow the yarn manufacturer’s<br />

recommended needle size.<br />


Cast on 45<br />

Row 1(RS): P45.<br />

Row 2(WS): K3, p39, k3.<br />

Row 3: P3, k39, p3.<br />

Row 4: K3, p11, k5, p23, k3.<br />

Row 5: P3, k12, p7, k3, p6, k11, p3.<br />

Row 6: K3, p11, k7, p2, k7, p12, k3.<br />

Row 7: P3, k12, p7, k2, p6, k12, p3.<br />

Row 8: K3, p13, k5, p2, k7, p12, k3.<br />

Row 9: P3, k<strong>14</strong>, p5, k2, p5, k13, p3.<br />

Row 10: K3, p13, k5, p2, k5, p<strong>14</strong>, k3.<br />

Row 11: P3, k<strong>14</strong>, p5, k2, p5, k13, p3.<br />

Row 12: K3, p13, k5, p2, k5, p<strong>14</strong>, k3.<br />

Row 13: P3, k<strong>14</strong>, p5, k2, p5, k13, p3.<br />

Row <strong>14</strong>: K3, p13, k5, p2, k5, p<strong>14</strong>, k3.<br />

Row 15: P3, k<strong>14</strong>, p5, k2, p5, k13, p3.<br />

Row 16: K3, p13, k5, p2, k5, p<strong>14</strong>, k3.<br />

Row 17: P3, k<strong>14</strong>, p5, k2, p5, k13, p3.<br />

Row 18: K3, p13, k5, p2, k5, p<strong>14</strong>, k3.<br />

Row 19: P3, k<strong>14</strong>, p5, k2, p5, k13, p3.<br />


Row 20: K3, p7, k1, p5, k5, p2, k5, p<strong>14</strong>, k3.<br />

Row 21: P3, k<strong>14</strong>, p5, k2, p5, k4, p1, k1, p1, k6, p3.<br />

Row 22: K3, p5, k1, p3, k1, p3, k5, p2, k5, p<strong>14</strong>, k3.<br />

Row 23: P3, k<strong>14</strong>, p12, k3, p1, k3, p1, k5, p3.<br />

Row 24: K3, p4, k1, p5, k1, p2, k12, p<strong>14</strong>, k3.<br />

Row 25: P3, k<strong>14</strong>, p12, k2, p1, k5, p1, k4, p3.<br />

Row 26: K3, p4, k1, p6, k1, p1, k12, p<strong>14</strong>, k3.<br />

Row 27: P3, k<strong>14</strong>, p12, k1, p1, k5, p1, k5, p3.<br />

Row 28: K3, p6, k1, p4, k<strong>14</strong>, p<strong>14</strong>, k3.<br />

Row 29: P3, k<strong>14</strong>, p13, k4, p1, k7, p3.<br />

Row 30: K3, p8, k1, p4, k11, p15, k3.<br />

Row 31: P3, k9, p6, k1, p4, k8, p2, k9, p3.<br />

Row 32: K3, p11, k1, p2, k5, p4, k8, p8, k3.<br />

Row 33: P3, k7, p10, k2, p10, k10, p3.<br />

Row 34: K3, p9, k11, p1, k11, p7, k3.<br />

Row 35: P3, k7, p12, k1, p11, k8, p3.<br />

Row 36: K3, p8, k9, p3, k4, p4, k4, p7, k3.<br />

Row 37: P3, k7, p4, k1, p7, k1, p2, k4, p5, k8, p3.<br />

Row 38: K3, p8, k5, p1, k5, p1, k3, p2, k2, p1, k4, p7, k3.<br />

Row 39: P3, k7, p4, k1, p1, k7, p5, k1, p5, k8, p3.<br />

Row 40: K3, p8, k17, p2, k5, p7, k3.<br />

Row 41: P3, k7, p4, k2, p18, k8, p3.<br />

Row 42: K3, p9, k18, p2, k2, p8, k3.<br />

Row 43: P3, k8, p1, k2, p18, k10, p3.<br />

Row 44: K3, p11, k18, p2, k1, p7, k3.<br />

Row 45: P3, k6, p1, k2, p1, k1, p16, k12, p3.<br />

Row 46: K3, p<strong>14</strong>, k13, p3, k1, p2, k1, p5, k3.<br />

Row 47: P3, k4, p1, k2, p1, k5, p11, k15, p3.<br />

Row 48: K3, p16, k9, p7, k1, p2, k1, p3, k3.<br />

Row 49: P3, k2, p1, k2, p1, k7, p11, k15, p3.<br />

Row 50: K3, p15, k11, p8, k1, p1, k1, p2, k3.<br />

Row 51: P3, k2, p2, k9, p11, k15, p3.<br />

Row 52: K3, p15, k11, p13, k3.<br />

Row 53: P3, k13, p11, k15, p3.<br />

Row 54: K3, p<strong>14</strong>, k12, p13, k3.<br />

Row 55: P3, k12, p<strong>14</strong>, k13, p3.<br />

Row 56: K3, p13, k<strong>14</strong>, p12, k3.<br />

Row 57: P3, k12, p<strong>14</strong>, k13, p3.<br />

Row 58: K3, p13, k4, p6, k4, p12, k3.<br />

Row 59: P3, k39, p3.<br />

Row 60: K3, p39, k3.<br />

Row 61: P3, k39, p3.<br />

Row 62: K3, p39, k3.<br />

Bind off all sts.<br />

Weave in ends and<br />

block as necessary.<br />

TIPS<br />

If preferred, slip the first OR the last stitch of every row to create a<br />

neater edge. When purling a stitch immediately after knitting a<br />

stitch, pull the excess yarn out of the purl stitch before knitting or<br />

purling on. This helps to reduce loose or baggy knit stitches.<br />

NOTES<br />

Occasionally, a dishident or secret square might not be<br />

suitable for children and “polite company”. This will be made<br />

clear when this is the case.<br />

If you would like to receive notifications of our next issue!<br />

Check out our Patreon!<br />

www.patreon.com/join/BlockedMagazine<br />


y Uknitted Kingdom<br />


AT THE<br />


“Size-inclusivity” is again taking up space in the knit/crochet world.<br />

With 54.5K YouTube subscribers (as of April 2024), the most vocal proponents of size inclusivity have been<br />

Traci and Jodi of the Grocery Girls Knit channel.<br />

Both Traci and Jodi state they are plus-sized knitters and as they’re at the top end of many patterns they<br />

believe every size and every body should be catered for within the pattern sizing.<br />

In October 2023, the pair spoke at length about how annoyed they were with designers.<br />

Excerpts from Grocery Girls Knit Ep 192, 12 Oct 2023, 1:21:34 – 1:29:20<br />

https://www.youtube.com/live/Hmqw80JVfZY?si=oTYTnE5VvOUkXSK2&t=4894<br />

Jodi: “It’s 2023 and you can’t grade it to a 70? Shame on you! That’s what I say.”<br />

Traci: “60 should be the bare minimum!”<br />

Traci: “Everybody should be able to knit a sweater without having to modify it, your size should be there.”<br />

Traci: “ I’m not here…<br />

Jodi: “We are… we are…”<br />

Traci: “… to trash anybody, it’s the whole mindset that bothers me…”<br />

Jodi, “I’m here to trash. Sorry. It’s f**king annoying!”.<br />

Their anger crossed into 2024, and, in January, they publicly called out the designer PetiteKnit for releasing<br />

her “Cloud Sweater.” The pattern is available in the following sizes, XXS (XS) S (M) L (XL) 2XL (3XL) 4XL (5XL)<br />

which fit busts from 29½”-59”. However, the Grocery Girls were not content with this.<br />

The smaller sizes had 9¾” of positive ease written into the pattern, whereas the larger sizes had positive ease<br />

which reduced as the size increased. Neither considered for a moment that there might be a reason for this.<br />

Instead, they, whilst admitting to having no sweater design knowledge, condemned Petiteknits for not being<br />

size-inclusive.<br />

Excerpts from Grocery Girls Knit, Ep 196, 10 Jan 2024, 1:10:45 to 1:21:51<br />

https://www.youtube.com/live/cfyoWagXuNY?si=ozj2cxlJJLymx4nE&t=4240<br />

Jodi: “I don’t want a designer to decide for me if I’m knitting the larger size, that my ease should be smaller.”<br />

Jodi: “You guys, in 2024 we need to be better… It is important to us that we don’t show patterns, moving<br />

forward, that don’t include every size and every body… It makes me angry.”<br />

Designing for every size and every body is impossible. Must designers include instructions for modifying a<br />

pattern for amputees or those with physical deformities? How about the person so obese she is confined to a<br />

bed, over 45st (286kg, 630lbs), and needs XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXL sized clothing? (A real example from 2010).<br />

https://www.mirror.co.uk/news/weird-news/worlds-biggest-pants-unveiled---266636<br />

Continued on next page...<br />


Bear Sized... Continued...<br />

Human bodies do not grow fatter in a uniform manner. No two obese bodies are the same. A mathematician<br />

might be able to calculate how many million design options there would need to be for a simple sweater to fit<br />

every conceivable body currently living in the world, but knitwear designers cannot reasonably be expected to<br />

do that.<br />

In February 2024, Traci and Jodi hosted an Instagram live and invited Kim McBrien Evans of Indigodragonfly<br />

to discuss the grading of Petiteknit’s patterns.<br />

Kim has devoted many years to researching size and grading for knitting patterns and created a sizing chart<br />

which claims to be more representative of modern bodies and plus sizes, available from the digits & threads<br />

website at:<br />

https://www.digitsandthreads.ca/new-representative-sizing-standards-for-garments-that-fit/<br />

It was satisfying to watch their faces drop as Kim explained that PetiteKnit used a grading system known as<br />

“proportionate grading.” To maintain the silhouette of the worn sweater the positive ease gets incrementally<br />

smaller the larger the sweater gets. This is a design choice that shows<br />

skill and consideration on PetiteKnit’s part. Many designers use the<br />

“fixed grading” system, whereby the size is scaled up or down with no<br />

consideration for how the garment drapes or looks when worn by all<br />

sizes. Both approaches have their purpose.<br />

After being proved wrong in such a public fashion neither of the<br />

Grocery Girls have subsequently offered a public apology to Petite-<br />

Knit. Instead, they have chosen to gloss over their original intentions.<br />

To add insult to injury, Jodi’s own hat patterns are not size-inclusive.<br />

The ASTM standards state the head girth of a man goes up to 27¼“<br />

(69.2cm). However, none of Jodi’s hats accommodate anyone with a<br />

head girth larger than a size Large. By Jodi’s standards, her own hats<br />

fall short.<br />

Jodi, if you want to criticize designers then start with yourself.<br />

It’s 2024, so do better!<br />

In closing, here are some options if you find your size isn’t<br />

included in a knitting pattern:<br />

● Ask the designer politely if your size is available.<br />

Accept the response.<br />

● Commission someone to modify the pattern to your size.<br />

● Lose weight.<br />

● Take the time to learn how to grade patterns to your specific size,<br />

then knit any pattern you choose.<br />

The ASTM body measurement standards can be purchased here:<br />

https://www.astm.org/catalogsearch/result/?q=body+measurements<br />


Podcasts!<br />

https://www.youtube.com/@TwoSistersAndSomeYarn<br />

https://www.youtube.com/@knitnite/featured<br />

https://www.youtube.com/@politicallyincorrectknitters<br />


CHANNEL!<br />

https://youtube.com/@blockedmagazine2859?si=-0u_JNUgDq7SHVcE<br />



BIL: Braided Increase Left. If you need more help, watch<br />

Anne’s video at:<br />

https://youtu.be/axfS2vShbQY?si=6RDciJoLrDkiQUKa<br />

Step 1- Knit to previously crossed (increased) stitch.<br />

Step 2- Insert working needle into stitch 2 to the right<br />

and 1 row down from front to back.<br />

Step 3- Loop working yarn over needle behind work<br />

(a crochet hook may make this step easier).<br />

Step 4- Pull yarn through work and slip new stitch onto<br />

right needle. Do not pull the new stitch too tightly<br />

or your work will bunch up. Continue with pattern<br />

as instructed.<br />

BIR: Braided Increase Right. If you need more help, watch<br />

Anne’s video at:<br />

https://youtu.be/axfS2vShbQY?si=6RDciJoLrDkiQUKa<br />

Step 1- Knit to 1 st before previously crossed (increased)<br />

stitch.<br />

Step 2- Insert working needle into stitch 2 to the left and<br />

1 row down from front to back.<br />

Step 3- Loop working yarn over needle behind work<br />

(a crochet hook may make this step easier).<br />

Step 4- Pull yarn through work and cross new stitch over<br />

the 2 sts still on left needle, then slip onto right needle.<br />

Do not pull the new stitch too tightly or your work will<br />

bunch up. Continue with pattern as instructed, knitting<br />

the crossed stitches as the next 2 stitches of the pattern.<br />

CC: Contrasting Color.<br />

K: Knit.<br />

K2tog: Knit 2 sts together.<br />

Kitchener Stitch: Put half of stitches on each needle with<br />

RSs facing out and needle points to the right. Thread a<br />

tapestry needle with yarn tail.<br />

Setup 1- Insert tapestry needle purlwise into 1st st on<br />

front needle and draw yarn through.<br />

Setup 2. Insert tapestry needle knitwise into 1st st on<br />

back needle and draw yarn through.<br />

Step 1- Insert tapestry needle into 1st st on front needle<br />

knitwise and draw yarn through.<br />

Drop st from needle.<br />

Step 2- Insert tapestry needle into the next stitch on front<br />

needle purlwise and draw yarn through.<br />

Leave st on needle.<br />

Step 3- Insert tapestry needle into 1st st on back needle<br />

purlwise and draw yarn through. Drop st from needle.<br />

Step 4- Insert tapestry needle into next st on back needle<br />

knitwise and draw yarn through. Leave st on needle.<br />

Rep Steps 1-4 until all sts are worked.<br />

LH: Left Hand.<br />

M1: Make 1.<br />

MB: Make Bobble (Mini-Bobble).<br />

Step 1: KFBF (knit front, back, front) into the next stitch.<br />

Step 2: Individually pass second and first sts on right<br />

needle over third st.<br />

Step 3: Bring working yarn to front and slip st back to<br />

left needle.<br />



LEFT<br />



RIGHT<br />

Step 4: Bring working yarn under bobble and return to<br />

the back.<br />

Step 5: Return st to right needle and continue with pattern.<br />

MC: Main Color.<br />

M1R: Right-leaning make 1.<br />

P: Purl.<br />

PM: Place Marker.<br />

PU: Pick Up.<br />

Rep: Repeat.<br />

RH: Right Hand.<br />

RS: Right Side.<br />

Sl: Slip stitch, always slip sts purlwise unless otherwise<br />

indicated.<br />

Sk2p: Slip, knit, pass - Slip 1 st knitwise, k2 stitches and<br />

pass the first stitch over the other two stitches.<br />

Ssk: Slip, slip, knit – Slip 1st st knitwise, slip 2nd st knitwise,<br />

knit both together tbl.<br />

St(s): Stitch(es).<br />

Tbl: Through back loop.<br />

WS: Wrong Side.<br />



MORI<br />


MITTS<br />

by Anne Pinkava<br />

YARN<br />

• MC Skeinz Vintage DK 8ply (100% Wool 50gm/1.76oz,<br />

101m/110.45y) Charcoal (Example used approx. 170 y/81g)<br />

• CC Chicken Lady Fiber Arts DK Sock (75% Superwash<br />

Merino, 25% Nylon 100g/3.5oz, 245yd/224) Chickadee<br />

(Example used approx. 30y/12g)<br />


• US size 3 (3.25mm)<br />

• 2 stitch markers<br />

• Tapestry needle.<br />

GAUGE<br />

• Stockinette in the round 28 st x 36 rnds = 4” x 4”<br />

• Stranded knitting in the round 32 st x 36 rnds = 4” x4”<br />

SIZE<br />

• Women’s large: 8½” around at the palm, 8” from the top of mitt to cuff.<br />

Note: For help with the Braided Increase stitch, see the abbreviations page or watch Anne’s video at<br />

https://youtu.be/axfS2vShbQY?si=4QTa-Jzi1pikM5kZ<br />


Cuff:<br />

With MC, CO 64 sts and join in the round.<br />

Work K1P1 ribbing for 20 rounds.<br />

Knit 2 rounds.<br />

Start Right Chart. On Round 8, PM at the end of the round and after the M1.<br />

This will mark the thumb stitches that will go onto a holder once they are all completed.<br />

On Round 29, put thumb stitches on holder, and cast on 1 st before joining again in the round.<br />

Cut CC, leaving a tail, and knit 3 rounds.<br />

Forefinger:<br />

Set up: K9 and put 48 sts on a st holder. M2 st and join in the round, then knit the remaining 9 sts on the back<br />

side. (20 sts total)<br />

Rounds 1-20: Knit.<br />

Round 21: K2, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k2. (16 sts rem)<br />

Rounds 22-23: Knit.<br />

Round 24: K1, k2tog 7X, k1. (9 sts rem)<br />


Memento Mori Mitts Continued...<br />

Round 25: Knit.<br />

Round 26: K2tog 4X, k1. (5 sts rem)<br />

Round 27: K2tog 2X, k1. (3 sts rem)<br />

Cut yarn and use tapestry needle to thread tail through<br />

remaining 3 sts. Pull tight.<br />

Hand:<br />

Set Up: Starting at marker for hand, PU 1 st, knit 48 sts,<br />

PU 1 st. (50 st total)<br />

Round 1: K22, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k22. (48 sts)<br />

Rounds 2-3: Knit<br />

Round 4: K1, k2tog, k18, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k18, k2tog, k1.<br />

(44 sts)<br />

Rounds 5-6: Knit<br />

Round 7: K19, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k19. (42 sts)<br />

Rounds 8-9: Knit<br />

Round 10: K1, k2tog, k15, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k15, k2tog,<br />

k1. (38 sts)<br />

Rounds 11-12: Knit<br />

Round 13: K16, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k16. (36 sts)<br />

Round <strong>14</strong>-15: Knit<br />

Round 16: K1, k2tog, k12, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k12, k2tog,<br />

k1. (32 sts)<br />

Round 17: Knit<br />

Round 18: K13, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k13 (30 sts)<br />

Round 19: Knit<br />

Round 20: K12, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k12. (28 sts)<br />

Round 21: Knit<br />

Round 22: K11, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k11. (26 sts)<br />

Round 23: Knit<br />

Round 24: K10, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k10. (24 sts)<br />

Round 25: Knit<br />

Round 26: K9, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k9. (22 sts)<br />

Round 27: Knit<br />

Round 28: K8, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k8. (20 sts)<br />

Cut yarn leaving approx. <strong>14</strong>” tail. Close opening using<br />

Kitchener stitch.<br />

Thumb:<br />

Round 1: PU 1 from edge, k20 from holder, PU 1. (22 sts)<br />

Rounds 2-3: Knit<br />

Round 4: K1, k2tog, k16, k2tog, k1. (20 sts)<br />

Rounds 5-6: Knit<br />

Round 7: K1, k2tog, k<strong>14</strong>, k2tog, k1. (18 sts)<br />

Rounds 8-9: Knit<br />

Round 10: K1, k2tog, k12, k2tog, k1. (16 sts)<br />

Rounds 11-12: Knit<br />

Round 13: K1, k2tog, k10, k2tog, k1. (<strong>14</strong> sts)<br />

Rounds <strong>14</strong>-15: Knit<br />

Round 16: K1, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k1.<br />

(10 sts)<br />

Rounds 17-18: Knit<br />

Round 19: K2tog, k1, k2tog, k2tog, k1, k2tog. (6 sts)<br />

Close opening using Kitchener stitch.<br />

Weave in all ends and block as needed.<br />

Repeat for left hand using Left Chart.<br />

Alternate instructions for individual fingers:<br />

Middle finger:<br />

PU 1 st from first finger, k9 off the front st holder, CO 2<br />

sts, k9 off back st holder, PU 1. (22 sts)<br />

Round 1: K2tog, k9, k2tog, k9. (20 sts)<br />

Rounds 2-24: Knit.<br />

Round 25: K2, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k2.<br />

(16 sts)<br />

Round 26: Knit.<br />

Round 27: K1, k2tog 7X, k1. (9 sts)<br />

Round 28: Knit.<br />

Round 29: K2tog 4X, k1. (5 sts)<br />

Round 30: K2tog 2X, k1. (3 sts)<br />

Cut yarn and use tapestry needle to thread tail through<br />

remaining 3 sts. Pull tight.<br />

Ring finger:<br />

PU 1 from middle finger, k8 from front holder, CO 2, k8<br />

from back holder, PU 1. (20 sts)<br />

Rounds 1-21: Knit.<br />

Round 22: K2, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k2.<br />

(16 sts)<br />

Round 23: Knit.<br />

Round 24: K1, k2tog 7X, K1. (9 sts)<br />

Round 25: Knit.<br />

Round 26: K2tog 4X, k1. (5 sts)<br />

Round 27: K2tog 2X, k1. (3 sts)<br />

Cut yarn and use tapestry needle to thread tail through<br />

remaining 3 sts. Pull tight.<br />

Pinky finger:<br />

PU 1 from fore finger, k<strong>14</strong> from holder, PU 1. (16 st)<br />

Rounds 1-15: Knit.<br />

Round 16: K1, k2tog 7X, k1. (9 sts)<br />

Rounds 17-18: Knit.<br />

Round 19: K2tog, k5, k2tog. (7 sts)<br />

Round 20: Knit.<br />

Round 21: K2tog 3X, k1. (4 sts)<br />

Cut yarn and use tapestry needle to thread tail through<br />

remaining 4 sts. Pull tight.<br />

Weave in all ends and block as desired.<br />


Momento Mori Left<br />

Momento Mori Right<br />


Book Review<br />

by Katie Gerwien, khgknits<br />

Sweater Knitting Method Review<br />

Ziggurats: 16 Elegantly Seamless Knits: Sweaters, Cardigans, Tutorials<br />

Neil suggested I review Ziggurats: 16 Elegantly<br />

Seamless Knits, written by Åsa Tricosa (whose real<br />

name is Åsa Söderman) for Blocked Magazine. I remember<br />

watching the Fruity Knitting podcast interview<br />

of the author and being impressed by the<br />

designs in the book. The sweater designs are classic<br />

and have beautiful finishing options. I was also looking<br />

for my next winter sweater to knit, thus here is the solution:<br />

knit a sweater from the book to assist in writing<br />

this review and add a winter sweater to my wardrobe<br />

at the same time.<br />

What is the Ziggurat Method? It is a method developed<br />

by Söderman with shaped necklines to curve<br />

with our backs, set in sleeves, and integrated buttons<br />

and pockets.<br />

The book was published in 2018 by Söderman,<br />

whose website (https://www.asatricosa.com/zigguratbook/)<br />

lists several locations for purchasing the book.<br />

When you purchase a physical copy of the book, an e-<br />

book version is included, or you can purchase the e-<br />

book separately. As of 11 March 2024, Söderman’s<br />

website says the book costs £35 British and the linked<br />

US seller lists it for $49.99, but it is currently out of<br />

stock. Several paperback copies were available as of<br />

11 March 2024 on Amazon, ranging from $150.00 to<br />

$2<strong>14</strong>.09, but all were gone by the publishing of this review.<br />

The book has a brief introduction to the concept,<br />

16 sweater patterns for women, tutorials, a resources<br />

guide, and an abbreviations list. The patterns include<br />

tunic, cardigan and pullover sweaters using lace<br />

weight, fingering, sport, dk and Aran yarn, with various<br />

neck finishes. Every pattern, along with beautiful photos,<br />

has a written description with suggestions for customization.<br />

The sizes range from 81cm/32” to<br />

127cm/50”, however, the size ranges are for the<br />

shoulder circumference and not the traditionally used<br />

bust circumference. I like the detailed schematics in<br />

each pattern as they provide extensive measurements<br />

to assist the knitter in making decisions regarding<br />

sleeve and body length and any other adjustments<br />

needed for a good fit. For more information regarding<br />

sizing, page 220 addresses sizing using the shoulder<br />

width measurement, gauge, and adjusting for bust<br />

sizes. Within each pattern, smaller boxes are included<br />

to give additional stitch instructions specific to certain<br />

sections of the sweater construction. Knitters are told<br />

when to use the tutorials for executing required steps<br />

and instructions for the tutorials include photos. At the<br />

end of each pattern, there is a colored chart depicting<br />

when sleeve, body and neck increases occur, as well<br />

as buttonhole placement and underarm cast on. The<br />

key to success with the Ziggurat method its completing<br />

Steps 1 - 5. The steps are explained, with photographs,<br />

on pages 212 -216. Whether you use a<br />

hardback copy or a digital copy, you will need bookmarks<br />

to reference the tutorials at the end of the book<br />

to complete a project. I have been zigging back and<br />

forth between the pattern instructions and the tutorials<br />

at the end of the book at every step of the sweater I<br />

am knitting.<br />

What are the pros of this process? All the pros of<br />

top-down sweater knitting apply:<br />

1. You can try the sweater on as you progress to<br />

make sure you have the right fit. For example, I made<br />

an adjustment to the back of my sweater as I needed<br />

to include 2 back darts.<br />

2. No seaming is required.<br />

3. Some of the finishing techniques are attractive.<br />

4. The tutorials for casting on, short rows, increasing,<br />

and decreasing are good. They explain the process<br />

and provide good photo illustrations of the<br />

processes.<br />

Neckline after blocking.<br />


Book Review Continued...<br />

5. The sweater designs are classic, and the book<br />

provides excellent suggestions for customizing the<br />

patterns.<br />

6. The advice on fitting is explained well. The schematics<br />

are thorough and helpful for achieving a wellfitting<br />

sweater.<br />

What are the cons of this process? All the cons of a<br />

top-down sweater knitting apply, and this is a bear of a<br />

process for knitting a sweater!<br />

1. Steps 1 – 5 for the neckline cast on through the<br />

sleeve cap set-up are a bear to knit. There was nothing<br />

intuitive about the sleeve cap steps for me. I had to<br />

knit the process twice as I did not understand it the<br />

first time. The tutorial was not clear to me. I searched<br />

for an online tutorial for the process and could not<br />

find one, except a pay for class with Knit Stars.<br />

2. I found the color-coded charts too complicated<br />

and did not realize how soon I needed to start using it.<br />

3. Top-down sweaters are heavy to knit once you<br />

are knitting the body and each row is a long process.<br />

The weight of the sweater when using this method increased<br />

the wrist pain I experience.<br />

4. The sleeves are frustrating to knit as you must<br />

turn the entire body of the sweater around for each<br />

row of each sleeve. You also cannot knit the sleeves<br />

two at a time as you can when knitting sleeves flat.<br />

5. While some of the finishing processes are attractive,<br />

they are no more attractive than the results I have<br />

achieved using traditional<br />

finishing<br />

processes for other<br />

sweaters.<br />

While I love the<br />

look of the patterns<br />

included in this<br />

book, which are<br />

classic in design, I<br />

believe this review is<br />

appropriate for the<br />

Bear Arms issue as it<br />

has been a bear to<br />

knit this sweater…<br />

and I still have not<br />

finished the sweater<br />

I started at least 2<br />

months ago! I have<br />

been knitting<br />

sweaters since I was 20 years old. I never struggled<br />

with the patterns. I followed the directions, occasionally<br />

making a sizing tweak or using a different, preferred-by-me<br />

method for casting on, increasing,<br />

decreasing and the like, and ended up with a wearable<br />

sweater at the end of the process. With the Ziggurat<br />

sweater, not only did I have to frog and reknit<br />

the sleeve caps, but I also had to reknit the underarm<br />

gussets. At this point, I am knitting the body and the<br />

sleeves of the sweater; thus, I know I will end up with a<br />

sweater at the end. I finished one sleeve, only to have<br />

to rip the finishing at the end of the sleeve and reknit<br />

as the sleeve is far too long. Also, the stitch design at<br />

the end of the sleeve is no longer attractive when I knit<br />

the lined hem for the sleeve. I wish the instructions<br />

were clearer and/or free tutorials were available for<br />

clarification of the initial steps. For example, when I<br />

was knitting the lined hem for the bottom of the<br />

sweater and the sleeve, the written directions said to<br />

pick up stitches going counterclockwise, yet the diagram<br />

for the process picked up the stitches going<br />

clockwise. Which way are we supposed to go, clockwise<br />

or counterclockwise?<br />

I selected the Chatoyant pattern, a DK-weight<br />

sweater with a stitch pattern on the sides and sleeves<br />

to create faux seams. The same stitch pattern starts<br />

about a third of the way from the bottom of the<br />

sweater on the front and back to give vertical lines.<br />

The sweater includes an underarm gusset, a decorative<br />

stitch pattern at the base of the sleeves, and<br />

lined hems for the body and sleeves of the pattern. I<br />

like the faux seams for the sides of the sweater and the<br />

Sleeve lined hem with decorative<br />

stitch pattern.<br />

28<br />

Underarm gusset.

Book Review Continued...<br />

bottom third of the sweater. They were easy to execute<br />

and give vertical lines where I need them. The<br />

underarm gusset was not fun to knit (had to redo it!),<br />

because it is under the arm, you don’t see it, and it<br />

does not aid the fit of the sweater. The decorative<br />

stitch for the bottom of the sleeve was not hard to execute<br />

until I knit the lined hem. Once I worked the<br />

lined hem for the sleeve bottom, the last few rows of<br />

the decorative stitch pattern were not easy to knit, and<br />

I am not happy with the appearance of the decorative<br />

stitch pattern for the lined hem portion of the sleeve. I<br />

have to rip out the sleeve hem again to shorten the<br />

sleeve as the sleeve is too long after knitting it a second<br />

time! When I reknit the bottom of the sleeve, I will<br />

not add the decorative stitch pattern as I do not think I<br />

will achieve a better result with the lined hem again.<br />

Once nice thing about the lined hems is they were<br />

super easy to block. Normally when I block a sweater,<br />

I spend a lot of time running the blocking wires<br />

through the ribbing at the base of the sweater body<br />

and sleeve bottoms. The blocking wires went right<br />

through the lined hem quickly and evenly, reducing<br />

the amount of time I spent setting the sweater for<br />

blocking. The neckline is attractive, but it is very similar<br />

to the results I have achieved using simpler processes.<br />

Several years ago, I knitted Sun Rose, a top down,<br />

seamless, set in sleeve pattern designed by Laura<br />

Aylor. I had no questions following the instructions<br />

and completing the project, other than my overall objections<br />

to sweaters knit in the round. I reviewed the<br />

pattern again and found Laura Aylor used a simplified<br />

variation of the seamless, set in sleeve process from<br />

Barbara Walker’s 2016 book, Knitting from the Top. I<br />

Inside view of lined hem/bottom of body of sweater.<br />

would knit Sun Rose again without question. I doubt I<br />

will knit another Ziggurat sweater. I did a quick search<br />

on Ravelry and found 392 top-down, seamless, set-in<br />

sleeve sweater patterns listed for adults. I did not review<br />

the patterns, yet this search and my experience<br />

knitting Aylor's Sun Rose tells me you can accomplish<br />

the same goal of knitting a top down, seamless<br />

sweater with set-in sleeves without using the Ziggurat<br />

process. I have not read Walker’s Knitting from the Top<br />

and did not have time to review it for this article. You<br />

may want to take a look at her book if you are interested<br />

in this method.<br />

If you like the Ziggurats patterns (and there are<br />

more designs on Söderman’s website) you can give<br />

this method a go… as long as you are not in a rush to<br />

finish the sweater. If you experience any problems understanding<br />

the processes, the only resource I found<br />

for assistance is to pay for the Knit Stars course. If you<br />

like knitting from the top down, as well as having a<br />

set-in sleeve, this book provides 16 options for you. If<br />

you don’t mind seaming sweaters, I don’t know that I<br />

would put you through this bear of a process to complete<br />

a sweater that will have the same attractive finishes<br />

you can achieve with seaming knitted pieces<br />

together. Regardless of what pattern you choose, I<br />

wish you happiness with your knitting!<br />

Bottom 1/3 of sweater with decorative<br />

stitch pattern columns and lined hem.<br />


Bear Arms<br />


DOWN:<br />

1. To carry or possess firearms.<br />

2. A handgun or pistol with a multi-chambered<br />

cylinder (usually holding six to eight rounds) that<br />

rotates with each pull of the trigger.<br />

3. Term for helical grooves machined into the<br />

internal surface of a firearm’s barrel for imparting<br />

a spin to a projectile to improve its aerodynamic<br />

stability and accuracy.<br />

5. Often referred to as a gun’s “kick,” or the<br />

backward force the gun exerts when it’s fired.<br />

7. Upper limbs of the human body which<br />

are naked or unclothed.<br />

10. Designers of the .41 Magazine Pistol, the<br />

first repeating American firearm capable of<br />

successfully using a fully self-contained cartridge.<br />

<strong>14</strong>. The part of the US Constitution which reads<br />

"A well-regulated Militia, being necessary to the<br />

security of a free State, the right of the people to<br />

keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."<br />

17. LGBT slang term used by homosexual men<br />

to describe hyper masculine men who have hairy<br />

bodies and facial hair, or who are heavy set.<br />

19. What the AR in AR15 stands for.<br />

23. The smallest species of bear.<br />

24. NFL team based in Chicago, IL.<br />

25. The largest species of bear.<br />

ACROSS:<br />

4. The popular Australian “bear” that is not really a bear.<br />

6. The upper limb of the human body, especially the part<br />

extending from the shoulder to the wrist.<br />

8. Country most associated with the symbol of a bear.<br />

9. Arguably the most successful firearms designer of the<br />

19th and 20th centuries whose most successful design<br />

was the M1911.<br />

11. The large muscle that lies on the front of the upper<br />

arm between the shoulder and the elbow.<br />

12. The science and study of cartridge discharge, and the<br />

launch, flight, behavior, and effects of projectiles.<br />

13. The long bone in the arm that runs from the shoulder<br />

to the elbow that has a funny name.<br />

15. The state of bearing firearms or carrying weapons.<br />

16. A political rather than technical term, referring to<br />

firearms that changes depending on who is using it.<br />

18. Ammunition that contains medium or large-sized pellets<br />

that fire out of a shotgun shell all at once.<br />

19. A package of components that includes gunpowder, a<br />

primer, and a projectile encased in a casing.<br />

20. “Abe Lincoln may have freed all men, but ___ ____<br />

made them equal.”<br />

21. Ursus arctos horribilis<br />

22. U.S. President whose refusal to shoot a black bear cub<br />

on a hunting trip led to the popularization of the “Teddy<br />

bear<br />

26. A container that holds cartridges or rounds under<br />

spring pressure to be fed into a gun’s chamber.<br />

27. The third-largest constellation containing the Big<br />

Dipper,<br />

28. The diameter of a gun’s bore (the inner diameter of<br />

the barrel) measured as fractions of an inch or millimeters.<br />

It also determines the size of ammunition that can<br />

be fired by the gun.<br />

29. A slang term for a suppressor.<br />



By Neil James<br />

“BEARING<br />

GUNS” AND<br />

“PAWS UP!”<br />



“Bearing Guns” 59 stitches wide x 34 stitches high (approx. 4.2” x 2.4”)<br />

“Paws Up!” 43 stitches wide x 36 stitches high (approx. 3.1” x 2.6”)<br />


<strong>14</strong> Count Cross Stitch Fabric / Aida 75 x 75 stitches (approx. 5.4” x 5.4”)<br />

Cross Stitch needle<br />

Embroidery Hoop (optional)<br />

Scissors<br />

NOTES<br />

The stitches used throughout both pieces are typical full cross stitches.<br />

EXCEPT for four x ¼ stitches on the “Bearing Guns” piece and eight x ¼<br />

stitches on the “Paws Up!” piece. These are used for the eye(s) of each bear.<br />

Fig. 1 - Shows a typical full stitch on the left and four ¼ stitches on the right<br />

(not actual colors in this pattern).<br />

“Bearing Guns” Notes<br />

Fig. 2 - Shows the ¼ stitches used to make the eye look to the right.<br />

Fig. 3 - Shows the ¼ stitches used to make the eye look to the left.<br />

For the eyebrow use 2 strands of black and back stich between the top left<br />

square across to the bottom right of the next square.<br />

Fig. 4 - For the mouth use 2 strands of black and back stitch in the square to<br />

the left of the lowest nose block and stitch top left to bottom right. Then back<br />

stitch bottom left to top right of the square to the right of the lowest nose<br />

block.<br />

“Paws Up!” Notes<br />

Fig. 5 - As per Fig. 2 Use the ¼ stitches to make the eyes look to the left or to<br />

the right.<br />

Fig. 6 - As above<br />

Fig. 7 - For the mouth use 2 strands of black and back stitch in the square to<br />

the bottom left of the lowest nose block and stitch bottom left to top right.<br />

Then back stitch top left to bottom right of the square to the bottom right of<br />

the lowest nose block.<br />

Fig. 1 Fig. 2<br />

Fig. 3 Fig. 4<br />

Fig. 5 Fig. 6<br />

Fig. 7<br />


Bearing Guns Continued...<br />


Bearing Guns Continued...<br />

Continued on next page...<br />


Bearing Guns Continued...<br />


36<br />

Bearing Guns Continued...

y mockingbirdsrealm<br />



By Neil James<br />

<strong>BLOCKED</strong><br />

LOGO<br />


By Neil James<br />


“Colorwork Knitting Charts”<br />

Each issue we’ll have original colorwork chart repeats which can<br />

be used in your projects. Ensure your project has a stitch count<br />

divisible by the number of columns in the chart. Repeat the chart<br />

as many times as required. Or, Use these charts to create your<br />

own Cross Stitch Projects!


Anne Pinkava<br />

Knitting Patterns<br />

www.lovecrafts.com/en-us/user/maker/fdba7e1e-93b6-4b6f-9f82-06ef18d0ec8c<br />

Knitting Patterns<br />

https://www.ravelry.com/designers/liz-clothier<br />

Knitting Patterns<br />

https://galilee-life.com/vendor/deplorable-knitter/<br />


NEEDS YOU!<br />

© 2022 Conley Olson, @NantucketStudios<br />


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Acknowledgments<br />

<strong>BLOCKED</strong> has been made<br />

possible by the generosity and<br />

goodwill of far too many people to<br />

name individually.<br />

Thank you to all the designers,<br />

writers, photographers, artists,<br />

patrons, advertisers and, of<br />

course you the reader.

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