BLOCKED_14_FINAL

THE BEAR ARMS ISSUE • ZIGGURAT BOOK REVIEW • BEAR MINIMUM 

CROSSWORD • BALLS & AMMO • OEKO TEX • COZY UP SHAWL 

14

Unless otherwise indicated the information, articles, artwork, 

patterns and photography published in BLOCKED Magazine 

are subject to copyright ©2024 BLOCKED Magazine. 

All rights reserved. 

TEAM BLOCKED 

Editor in Chief 

Neil James 

For all enquiries: 

blockedmagazine@gmx.com 

Layouts, Graphics, and Ads 

BS Designs 

Copy Editor, Tech Editor, 

Head of Games/Puzzles Content 

Cézanne Pellett 

Head of Review Content 

Katie Gerwien 

Joint Heads of Geographical 

and Historical Content 

Yelena of Scythia 

Amy D 

Cover Photography 

Anne Pinkava 

Content Writers 

Jo-Bob 

Katie Gerwein 

Tabitha of Murderknits 

Uknitted Kingdom 

Editorial Assistants 

Denise Pettus 

Karen Juliano 

Laura Neubauer 

Pattern Designers 

Anne Pinkava 

Liz Clothier 

Mockingbirdsrealm 

Tabitha of Murderknits 

Uknitted Kingdom

Dear Readers, 

Welcome to issue 14! 

Many (but not all) of the articles and patterns in this issue are related to the theme of “Bear 

Arms.” Contributors were invited to interpret the theme in any way they chose. Some chose the 

2nd amendment right to “bear arms,” some chose bare arms, and some chose the arms of a bear. 

We even have a bare bear bearing arms in his bare bear arms! Try saying that ten times. 

In this issue, we have a brand-new knitting technique from Anne Pinkava of the Politically 

Incorrect Knitters https://www.youtube.com/@politicallyincorrectknitters. Anne has invented a 

unique, never-before-seen increase. She has named it “The Braided Increase.” You’ll find her 

pattern using this increase and a link to an instructional video on page 23. 

We also have some new features, including: 

Pattern Reviews 

The lovely Jo-Bob of the Knit Nite YouTube channel https://www.youtube.com/@knitnite will 

be regularly reviewing patterns she has bought, knitted, not knitted, tinked, frogged, worn, given 

away, thrown in time-out, and/or thrown in the trash. Jo-Bob isn’t afraid to speak her mind and 

her reviews will have the same no-nonsense approach. Although the flaws of a pattern might be 

highlighted, you can be sure the positives of a pattern will also be. 

If you’re a designer and Jo-Bob critiques one of your patterns, please do not take it as a 

personal attack. Trust me, if you listen to, and act upon, her feedback, your future designs will 

be better. Likewise, if she should praise your pattern, don’t let it go to your head but do keep 

up the good work! 

Cross Stitch 

You’ll notice in this issue that we have included several cross stitch charts. We intend 

to have at least one or two cross stitch patterns in every issue from 14 onwards. 

For my own cross stitch designs, I intend to have a theme each year of five or six charts. 

Each chart will make an individual piece or can be combined with the other four or five to 

create a set or a larger combined piece. Other cross stitch designers will be contributing 

individual or combined charts at different points in the year. 

I’m looking for ideas for a cross stitch theme for the 6 issues of 2025. If there’s a theme 

you wish was available, let me know, and I’ll see if it’s something I can create. No promises! 

Please let your stitching friends know and share the link. https://linktr.ee/blockedmagazine 

Enjoy this issue and, as always, Get Blocked! 

Yours faithfully, 

Neil 

Editor-in-Chief 

3

y Murder Knits 

Balls and Ammo 

I married the first guy I dated who didn’t make fun of me 

for my knitting hobby. 

I began knitting in sixth grade when my pastor’s wife 

taught me. I rode the bus to their house every Tuesday. 

Pastor offered me a snack when I got off the bus or 

grossed me out with what he was cooking for dinner. My 

first time trying goulash made me gag and my pastor 

rolled with laughter. 

Ann and I would move to the study to begin our lessons. 

I spent hours going through her pattern library, mostly 

made up of Family Circle knitting magazines. My first project 

was a scarf out of Red Heart Super Saver. It was light 

brown with red and orange speckles. 

I spent middle school knitting here and there but picked 

it up more in high school when my home life went south. I 

spent my nights after school knitting and listening to 

Coast-to-Coast AM with George Noory. I brought my knitting 

to school and knit during lunch break and lectures. 

My first two boyfriends teased me and called me 

“Grandma.” They asked me not to bring my knitting when 

we were going places. 

When I met Tom, I didn’t tell him right away that I was a 

knitter. I didn’t want my hobby to ruin this relationship. He 

saw my knitting in my room one day and asked about it. I 

showed him the project I was working on, a baby sweater 

for my pregnant English teacher. He said, “cool,” and that 

was it. No derogatory comments, no snide remarks. 

I eventually brought my projects along for truck rides 

and visits to his house. I was never asked to put my knitting 

away. His parents always asked about my projects. 

Our favorite dates involved truck rides up to the mountain. 

I brought my knitting and Tom packed a of couple 

guns. He would target practice and I would knit. 

We got pregnant with Chesney at the end of our senior 

year. His parents moved me into their house. I knit for 

Chesney and my in-laws while pregnant. My mother-in-law 

still has the blankets I made as a thank-you gift for taking 

me under her wing 16 years ago. 

Over the years, my hobby of knitting/yarn buying and 

Tom’s gun collection have both grown. The yarn/gun 

room shares the same space. Usually, a skein is hanging 

off of a deer antler that holds the gun. We often joke 

about opening a yarn/gun ammo shop together. “Balls & 

Ammo – Yarn in the front, Guns in the back.” 

Our date nights are now spent at home where Tom 

cooks steak on the BBQ and I knit while he cooks. He 

watches gun shows while I do the dishes, then it's back to 

our chairs. I knit while he continues his show. Target practice 

in the mountains now involves our kids. The girls and I 

knit in between shooting the target. We will celebrate 16 

years of marriage this July. Sixteen years of combining our 

hobbies. Sixteen years of respecting each other with our 

crafts. Sixteen years of Tom funding my yarn collection. 

Sixteen years, three kids, 30+ guns, and 1000+ balls of 

yarn. 

4 

Continued on next page...

SOUTH BY 

SOUTHWEST 

by Murder Knits 

YARN 

A 2 skein dk-weight shawl. 

Sample is knitted in Knitty McPurly Dresden DK. 

NOTIONS 

Darning needle 

Stitch marker 

Scissors 

GAUGE 

No gauge, No rules, No worries. 

Another Murder Knits, 

Murder She Wrote Shawl. 

PATTERN 

Cast on 3 sts. 

Knit 1 row. 

K1, m1, knit to end. 

Knit to end. 

Rep last 2 rows until you run out of yarn. 

Join new yarn. 

K1, ssk, knit to end (make sure the 

decreases and increases are on the 

same side to maintain the triangle shape) 

Knit 1 row. 

Rep last 2 rows until 3 sts rem. 

Cast off. 

Weave in all ends and block. 

Wear while solving a murder in the desert. 

5

y Tabitha of murderknits 

Bear Stew 

This recipe requires that you actually know how to cook. No 

measurements, use your brain and summon your inner Julia 

Child. 

Stuff you need: 

bear meat - cut into chunks 

salt and pepper 

whatever spices you feel like 

a beer 

bacon grease 

onion 

a whole head of garlic 

celery 

carrots 

(If you don't have celery or carrots don’t worry no one eats that 

shit when it's in the stew.) 

potatoes 

ketchup or tomato paste (Whichever you have) 

Worcestershire sauce 

broth 

Pre-heat oven to 275 degrees. 

1. Put the bacon grease in a pot, use a pot that comes with a lid; I use a Dutch oven. Turn the stove burner 

on medium. 

2. Pat your meat dry or it takes too long to brown. Sprinkle the meat with salt and pepper. Put the meat in 

the pot, don’t crowd the meat or it will turn gray. Once meat is browned on all sides (but not cooked all the 

way) put the meat on a plate or bowl. 3. Cut up the onion and whole-ass head of garlic. Add these to the pot 

that had the meat in it. Cook until caramelized. Pour a whole beer in the pot. Add the cut up carrots and 

celery. Include the celery leaves, they have more flavor. Add whatever spices you want - get creative here. 

Add your ketchup or tomato paste. Stop when it looks good. Stir. 

4. Put the meat and all the blood juices back in the pot. Add enough broth to cover all the meat. If you run 

out of broth use water or more beer. Stir. 

5. Once this comes to a boil, not a violent boil but like half way, cover and put in the oven. Cook until the 

meat falls apart, usually a couple hours. Serve with potatoes: mashed, baked, or fried. 

Bonus points if you make gravy from the stew juices. 

6

y Uknitted Kingdom 

Men’s PLUS Sizes 

(or Husky Bear Knits) 

In a recent conversation with a regular contributor and 

Blocked team member, I was reminded that the term 

“bear” is used in certain circles (mostly gay men) to describe 

big, hairy, bearded men. This isn’t used to describe 

the internal feelings of the individual, such as with the 

mentally ill “Therians” or “Otherkins” - 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Otherkin but rather a term 

to describe a physical category. The categories are used 

by gay men when describing both homosexual and heterosexual 

men. 

Within the “Bear” category there are several 

sub-categories, including: 

• Bear (big/fat, hairy, bearded men) 

• Muscle bear (muscled, hairy, bearded men). 

• Polar bear (big/fat, hairy, white-haired older men). 

• Cub (younger, less hairy men with stubble or no beard). 

• Otter (thin hairy men). 

• Fox (thin, hairy, white or silver-haired older men). 

• There is even a category to include fat, hairy women, 

“Ursula” or “Bruin.” 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bear_(gay_culture) 

After studying the information, I have to admit to having 

more questions than answers. Some of the questions 

could perhaps be dismissed as irrelevant or not applicable 

to knitwear by a more experienced designer. 

So read on, not expecting to be told those answers but 

to consider and ponder whether the questions I ask 

should or shouldn’t be a factor in knitwear design. 

If we compare the ASTM image for a size-46 man with a 

size-64 man, one can see that grading the size up and 

down looks relatively simple. 

As a Santa lookalike, I would be categorized as a polar 

bear. Personally, I find it cute and harmless and have no 

objection to being objectified as a polar bear!

Husky Bear Knits Continued... 

by Uknitted Kingdom 

Here, the difference in the neck and arms (especially the 

upper arms) becomes more pronounced and the belly is an 

entirely different shape and volume. 

In terms of sweater construction, the first question I have 

is based on the center vertical axis running from the crown 

of the head down to the ankle. Theoretically, this is the line 

where the seam of a sweater would join the back piece to 

the front piece. With size-64 the back piece doesn’t appear 

to need to be as wide as the front piece. If an average of 

the front and back width was made, any subsequent seam 

(if not knitting in the round) likely is not going to sit correctly. 

Moving to the natural waistline (where the navel is found), 

this is just below the widest part of the belly. The belly appears 

to have a flatter, less rounded appearance at this 

point. Tailors and image consultants would recommend a 

large man wear his trouser waistband/belt at this point. 

Many large men prefer to wear their belts/waistbands much 

lower, below the belly. The belly then hangs over the front 

of the trousers. There are differing opinions on which version 

looks better, appears more slimming, is more fashionable, 

and is more comfortable. Both have a place in 

different scenarios (casual or formal, for example). 

Comparing the front of the garment to the back; for size- 

64 if the front piece was the same length as the back piece 

there might not be enough fabric to cover the lower belly. 

I have never seen a man’s knit or crochet sweater pattern 

which has made any allowances for the significant difference 

between the height and width of the front compared 

to the back. It seems an average is made of the overall circumference 

and then the knitter just hopes for the best. 

Any length adjustments are made to both front and back, 

creating a garment too long at the back or too short at the 

front. 

Should designers be grading up men’s sweaters to be 

longer and wider at the front and less so at the back? Are 

belly darts something to be considered? Or, more likely, am 

I overthinking this? 

It seems the knitters of old already had the answer for the 

portly gentleman. In Mary Thomas’s Knitting Book, first 

published in 1938, page 230, she says, “Spiral Ribbing was 

often used by the old-fashioned folk when knitting jerseys 

for corpulent figures, as the fabric can be adjusted over the 

figure with a slick line. The knitting would be round, and 

often done on eight needles.” 

- Cast on a multiple of 6. Rib for 6 rounds 

in 3 x 3 (k3, p3). 

- Move the ribbing one stitch to the right 

every 6 rounds. 

This stitch pattern is the same one used to knit spiral 

socks without a heel. By twisting the fabric around the heel 

(and in the case of a sweater, around the belly) the spiral rib 

opens out to accommodate the protuberance. I haven’t 

tried this method, nor have I seen a sweater using this 

method. As utilitarian as it sounds, there is little room for 

design elements or variety. 

However, for variance and creative elements can’t we just 

use the ASTM standards? Before thinking that the ASTM 

Standards are the panacea for the plus-sized, the standards 

are far from perfect. 

Eonyou Shin of Virginia Tech and Elahe Saeidi of Oregon 

State University conducted research into the ASTM standards 

and found them unfit for purpose. They concluded: 

“Three body shapes were categorized for the overweight 

and obese men in the United States: Rectangle-curvy 

shape, bottom hourglass-hip tilt shape, and top hourglassstraight 

shape. Result of this study support discrepancy between 

the body shapes and the current ASTM sizing 

standards. Overweight and obese men would experience 

more fit problems with bottoms than that with tops in both 

sizing standards (i.e., the men and the big men sizes). This 

study provides practical implications for apparel product 

developer in the United States that the sizing systems need 

to be updated to give better fit and accommodate different 

body shapes in the overweight and obese men.” 

8 


Husky Bear Knits Continued... 

Body Shapes and Fit Analysis of ASTM Size Standards 

for Overweight and Obese Men in the United States. (Shin 

& Saeidi, 2022) 

In 2011 Su-Jeong Hwang Shin, Cynthia L. Istook, and Jiinhee 

Lee concluded their research into USA menswear 

sizing as follows: 

Due to the complexity of the human body form, the 

methodology used in this study may not be sufficient to 

explain, or even uncover all the other possible variables. 

Further research needs to be conducted to evaluate these 

variables according to established and as yet developed 

fit models and 3D technologies. 

Various Men's Body Shapes and Drops for Developing 

Menswear Sizing Systems in the United States 

Article in Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and 

Textiles · December 2011 DOI: 

10.5850/JKSCT.2011.35.12.1454 

Based on both research papers, we can conclude that 

men’s body shapes are far too varied for any single sizing 

system to work. Bearing this in mind, how can any independent 

designer be expected to size patterns to fit all 

men’s bodies? 

Now apply this approach to the variability of women’s 

bodies and the scale of the size-inclusivity problem becomes 

apparent. 

With the standard measurements currently available to 

designers, it is impossible for them to size a sweater for 

every body. 

It would be far easier for individual knitters to learn how 

to grade a pattern to suit their own body measurements. 

Rather than hounding and hassling designers to produce 

a pattern for every size conceivable, might it be 

more worthwhile to ask knitting tutors to provide tutorials 

demonstrating how to grade a pattern? 

The only way you bears and bruins are going to achieve 

the Goldilocks sweater, which isn’t too small, isn’t too big, 

and fits just right, is to learn to adapt patterns to your 

own, unique, one-of-a-kind, body. 

9

DISHIDENT #17 

by UKnitted Kingdom 

PATTERN DESCRIPTION 

Each issue of Blocked will contain a “secret” 

pattern. The design will only be revealed as you 

knit. The instructions might uncover an image, design, 

word, or message. 

When using cotton, these secret squares make 

excellent dishcloths. If you make 4 or 5 of each 

square in wool or acrylic, they can be seamed 

together at the end of the year to make a small 

Afghan or lap blanket. 

GAUGE & MATERIALS 

Each dishident uses approximately 

41 to 43g of worsted weight 100% cotton. 

Follow the yarn manufacturer’s 

recommended needle size. 

DIRECTIONS 

Cast on 45 

← Row 1 [RS]: k45 

→ Row 2 [WS]: k45 

← Row 3 [RS]: k45 

→ Row 4 [WS]: k45 

← Row 5 [RS]: k45 

→ Row 6 [WS]: k45 

← Row 7 [RS]: k45 

→ Row 8 [WS]: k31, p10, k4 

← Row 9 [RS]: k45 

→ Row 10 [WS]: k31, p10, k4 

← Row 11 [RS]: k45 

→ Row 12 [WS]: k30, p11, k4 

← Row 13 [RS]: k45 

→ Row 14 [WS]: k30, p11, k4 

← Row 15 [RS]: k45 

→ Row 16 [WS]: k29, p12, k4 

← Row 17 [RS]: k45 

→ Row 18 [WS]: k29, p12, k4 

← Row 19 [RS]: k45 

10 

Dishident Continued on next page...

Dishident Continued... 

→ Row 20 [WS]: k29, p12, k4 

← Row 21 [RS]: k45 

→ Row 22 [WS]: k29, p12, k4 

← Row 23 [RS]: k45 

→ Row 24 [WS]: k30, p11, k4 

← Row 25 [RS]: k45 

→ Row 26 [WS]: k31, p10, k4 

← Row 27 [RS]: k45 

→ Row 28 [WS]: k32, p9, k4 

← Row 29 [RS]: k45 

→ Row 30 [WS]: k33, p8, k4 

← Row 31 [RS]: k45 

→ Row 32 [WS]: k4, p1, k29, p7, k4 

← Row 33 [RS]: k45 

→ Row 34 [WS]: k4, p2, k28, p7, k4 

← Row 35 [RS]: k45 

→ Row 36 [WS]: k4, p2, k29, p6, k4 

← Row 37 [RS]: k45 

→ Row 38 [WS]: k4, p3, k17, p5, k6, p6, k4 

← Row 39 [RS]: k45 

→ Row 40 [WS]: k4, p4, k4, (k, p2) 2x, k5, p7, k5, p6, k4 

← Row 41 [RS]: k45 

→ Row 42 [WS]: k4, p5, k4, (p2, k) 2x, k3, p9, k4, p6, k4 

← Row 43 [RS]: k45 

→ Row 44 [WS]: k4, p5, k4, (p, k3) 2x, k, p7, k6, p6, k4 

← Row 45 [RS]: k45 

→ Row 46 [WS]: k4, p4, (p, k5, p2) 2x, p4, k, p, k5, p6, k4 

← Row 47 [RS]: k26, (mb, k5) 2x, k7 

→ Row 48 [WS]: k4, p5, k13, p8, k5, p6, k4 

← Row 49 [RS]: k45 

→ Row 50 [WS]: k4, p6, k11, p9, k5, p6, k4 

← Row 51 [RS]: k45 

→ Row 52 [WS]: k4, p4, k15, p6, (p1, k1) 3x, p6, k4 

← Row 53 [RS]: k45 

→ Row 54 [WS]: k4, p4, (k3, p9) 2x, p9, k4 

← Row 55 [RS]: k45 

→ Row 56 [WS]: k4, p37, k4 

← Row 57 [RS]: k45 

→ Row 58 [WS]: k45 

← Row 59 [RS]: k45 

→ Row 60 [WS]: k45 

← Row 61 [RS]: k45 

→ Row 62 [WS]: k45 

TIPS 

If preferred, slip the first OR the last stitch of every row to create a 

neater edge. When purling a stitch immediately after knitting a 

stitch, pull the excess yarn out of the purl stitch before knitting or 

purling on. This helps to reduce loose or baggy knit stitches. 

NOTES 

Occasionally, a dishident or secret square might not be 

suitable for children and “polite company”. This will be made 

clear when this is the case. 

If you would like to receive notifications of our next issue! 

Check out our Patreon! 

www.patreon.com/join/BlockedMagazine 

11

By Neil James 

OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100, 

Echoes of Scheele’s Green. 

12 

On a recent Knit Nite YouTube episode, I was made 

aware of certification labels on some skeins of yarn, 

“OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100.” 

Jo Bob showed us the label which none of us had noticed 

before. 

Quickly reading about the standards on the label, we 

learned that whilst using certain yarns, our lives might 

have been in mortal danger! Who knew so many toxic 

substances could be present in an acrylic blend? Had 

there been a hidden repeat of the “Scheele’s Green” arsenic 

poisonings of Victorian times? 

(https://www.color-name.com/scheelesgreen.color?utm_content=cmp-true), 

(https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scheele%27s_Green) 

(https://www.theparisreview.org/blog/2018/05/02/scheeles 

-green-the-color-of-fake-foliage-and-death/) 

Ironically, it was noted that some of the toxic substances 

prohibited from the certified yarn are currently present in 

several ingredients contained in foods in the USA, and 

probably in other countries too. 

Having been subjected to decades of onerous, mostly 

pointless, and overly bureaucratic EU regulations, I was 

naturally suspicious. What is this? Why is it needed? Is it 

needed? Who is making money from it? Who is paying for 

it? Were we in danger before its implementation? Why is 

it a concern now but not before? 

I decided to go directly to the source and ask OEKO- 

TEX. 

The following are the unedited responses to my questions: 

1. “Why was the standard introduced for yarn specifically? 

Was there an incident or incidents which prompted 

it, or was this a pre-emptive measure 'just in case'?” 

OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 is a certification that was 

introduced for textiles, from raw materials such as yarns to 

finished textile products including their accessories. 

STANDARD 100 ensures that the products carrying the 

label, such as yarns, were tested for a very wide range of 

harmful substances. 

The label was developed in 1992 enabling consumers to 

make informed and safe purchasing decisions. 

2. “Is the OEK-TEX standard a legal requirement, or a 

voluntary option?” 

OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 is a voluntary standard. 

However, the requirements defined to obtain the certification 

(limit values, i.e., how much of a certain harmful 

substance is acceptable in a textile product) are indeed 

deduced from different regulations from within the EU 

and U.S. and based on the expertise of our own OEKO- 

TEX® toxicologists. OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 integrates 

worldwide regulations and newest scientific 

findings regarding chemicals and harmful substances. 

3. “How much does registration cost? Is the cost of registration 

typically passed onto the consumer?” 

The cost for the STANDARD 100 certification comprises 

most of the costs for the licence, the compulsory company 

audit and the laboratory and administrative tests. 

The precise costs for harmful-substance testing are based 

on the testing expenses for the respective textile product 

or material. Using already certified source materials, the financial 

costs for the laboratory tests can be reduced significantly. 

Due to the modular system used in STANDARD 

100 certification, the testing costs are distributed across 

the companies along the textile chain. 

4. “Is animal fibre tested and accredited too, or just cottons, 

acrylics, and acrylic blends? If not, why is that?” 

The OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 certification tests for 

all types of fibres commonly used in the textile industry, 

may they be plant-based, animal-based, synthetic or a 

mixture thereof. The limit values for harmful substances 

are the same, no matter the fibre type. 

5a. “Many knitters and crocheters use hand-dyed animal 

fibres from small independent dyers. Although it's impossible 

to know exactly which dyes they have used, is it possible 

that the acid dyes (such as Dharma) would cause the 

dyed yarn to fail the standard you apply?” 

Chemicals, colourants and auxiliaries that meet the 

OEKO-TEX® ECO PASSPORT standard have been tested 

and analysed against strict criteria, for a lower environmental 

impact. 

ECO PASSPORT is recognised as a pre-certification for 

OEKO-TEX®STANDARD 100. 


OEKO-TEX Continued... 

Especially for small business, our buying guide will be 

helpful to find suppliers for pre-certified yarns (STAND- 

ARD 100; or ORGANIC COTTON in case of cotton yarn) 

and dyes (ECO PASSPORT): See link below. 

5b. “Are independent small 'kitchen-sink' businesses 

(such as yarn dyers) able to be registered as compliant, or 

might the cost be prohibitive?” 

This would have to be evaluated by each business 

based on their products and business numbers individually, 

whether costs are prohibitive or not. 

6. “Do you have a list of the substances you test for in 

yarn (specifically)?” 

Our OEKO-TEX® RSL list (restricted substance list) is 

publicly available (see Annex 4 or 6 of the document for 

full chemical list and limit values): See Link Below. 

7. “Of the substances from question 6, of these, which 

are typically found in yarn?” 

This can differ depending on which fibre the yarn is 

made of, which (industrial) technology was employed for 

its production, which dyes were used etc. For all yarns 

certified according to OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100, the 

restricted substance list and limit values are globally 

valid. 

8. “Of the substances from question 6, are you aware if 

any of these substances are routinely found in food (including 

additives/preservatives, etc) or medication? If so, 

which ones?” 

There are a lot of hazardous substances included in the 

OEKO-TEX® RSL that are relevant in different industries, 

including the food and pharmaceutical industry. They 

would not be used on purpose but be part of the products 

accidentally. For instance, PFAS are a very critical 

chemical group utilized as water and oil repellents used 

in cookware such as non-stick pans. PFAS also pose a 

great health and environmental risk as they contaminate 

the environment. 

A network of over 21,000 certified companies helps 

with easier sourcing. The OEKO-TEX® buying guide 

offers access by sorting for different types of products, 

such as yarns. 

10. “In terms of yarn, what can knitters and crocheters 

expect from OEK-TEX standards in the future?” 

We use globally standardised test criteria and update 

our limited values for harmful substances at least once a 

year. STANDARD 100 remains in compliance with international 

requirements and regulations and being even 

stricter, protecting consumers and people working in the 

industry. We always strive to empower the consumer to 

make informed purchasing decisions with our Label 

Check. 

I’m grateful for OEKO-TEX’s speedy response. However, 

as expected, the reply is in corporate-speak, designed 

to deliver some of the information and swerve 

anything incriminating, able to be misconstrued, or legally 

difficult for the company. 

I’m still skeptical about whether certification is actually 

needed. I hold my hands up though, I might well be like 

William Morris after learning his wallpaper was killing 

people. He was in denial. However, it was revealed he 

held shares in the copper mines which produced a crucial 

ingredient of the pigment! 

Let us know what you think. Does this certification 

make you feel safer? 

9. “How many yarn producers are currently registered 

at OEKO-TEX compliant?” 

5. https://www.oeko-tex.com/en/buying-guide 

6. https://www.oeko-tex.com/importedmedia/downloadfiles/OEKO-TEX_STANDARD_100_Standard_EN_DE.pdf 

9. https://www.oeko-tex.com/en/buying-guide 

10. https://www.oeko-tex.com/en/label-check 

13

AND MY 

HEART 

by Liz Clothier Designs and Anne Pinkava 

YARN 

• MC – Malabrigo Arroyo (100g/3.53oz, 335yd/306m) 

AR429 Cape Cod (You will need approx. 80g/2.8oz, 268y/245m) 

• CC – Malabrigo Arroyo (100g/3.53oz, 335yd/306m) 

AR870 Candombe (You will need approx. 32g/1.1oz, 108y/99m) 

NOTIONS 

• US Size 4 (3.5mm) 16-inch circular needle 

• 8 stitch markers, one being a unique color to signify the beginning of the round. 

• Tapestry needle 

• Scissors 

SIZE 

Size is approximately 9.75”/25cm x 12”/30.5cm 

PATTERN 

With MC cast on 136 stitches and join in the round. Work the first row of the chart, rep it 

4 times, placing markers as follows: 

Work 27 sts, pm, work 7 sts, pm, rep around. There will be four 27 st sections and four 7 

st sections. 

Continue following the chart, adding in the CC as indicated. Because there are large 

sections of MC that would create very large floats, I used the ladder-back jacquard 

technique on either side of the cable sections. There are several tutorials on YouTube, 

but the one I used is linked below. 

https://youtu.be/UcQns-ON1nw?si=wFjKclrhdFAY-dsy 

After completing the last round on the chart, bind off loosely in pattern. 

Block and weave in the ends. 

Continued on next page... 

14

And My Heart Continued... 

15

y Jo Bob 

COZY UP “JAMIE” 

SISTER SHAWL REVIEW 

Hailing from Grande Prairie, Alberta, Canada, Cozy Up 

with the Stitchin’ Sisters dropped its first Podcast episode 

in early 2017. The two elder sisters, Jamie and 

Sarah, launched their chatty forum, giving motivation 

credit to the Grocery Girls podcast, as sisters in knitting. 

Early in their weekly podcasting, younger twin sisters 

Katie and Krissy, mother Jody, and camera-shy Granny 

are introduced. My favorite guest is Aunt Jackie with her 

indifferent cameos, typically appearing in bathrobes or 

house coat attire, (complete with headband) and reverence 

for heating and reheating beverages in the microwave. 

The Stitchin’ Sisters began as production knitters at a 

local market and taught knitting classes. The sisters 

soon aligned their podcast branding with their other social 

media, renaming the Podcast as Cozy Up Knits. 

Although eldest sister Jamie taught her sisters to knit, 

second sister Sarah shines with her creative and technical 

prowess in designing beginner-friendly knitwear accessories. 

She is the brains behind most of the Cozy Up 

Knits’ designs, encouraging knitters to hack and modify 

any of her designs. 

During 2017 and 2018, Sarah designed a special shawl 

for each sister. Jamie's shawl was published in November 

2017 and is available for purchase as a digital 

download from LoveCrafts and Ravelry. This textured triangular 

shawl is designed to be knit with either double 

knit or worsted-weight yarn. There are separate directions 

for additional repetitions and stitch counts for the 

DK version. 

The shawl is built top down, with a center spine and 

edging increases, short bursts of differing textural stitch 

patterns to add interest, and a seed stitch border. The 

written pattern instructions are easy to read and follow. 


16

Cozy Up Continued... 

By Jo Bob 

While the other three sister shawl designs lend themselves 

to semi-solid, variegated, speckled, or tonal 

yarns, the Jamie Shawl is more appealing in a solid or 

semi-solid, rustic, wooly yarn, producing an “Outlander” 

style aesthetic. 

All the textural sections are interchangeable with each 

other and may be repeated as many times as you 

choose. It is a beginner pattern design with knit and purl 

stitches, yarn overs, and a special texture stitch. 

Materials required: 

Worsted weight yarn 

Approx. 600 yards 

US size 10 (6 mm) needles 

4 stitch markers 

Or 

DK weight yarn 

Approx. 725 yards 

US Size 7 (4.5 mm) needles 

4 stitch markers 

I used a semi-worsted weight New Zealand Pure Wool. 

A modification I made was to knit into the back of the 

stitch on the last step of the bobble stitch instructions. 

There are currently 107 patterns published by Cozy Up 

Knits on Ravelry. My favorite is the Katie Shawl design 

with its endless opportunities to use any color, texture, 

and style of yarn for a contemporary knit accessory. Personally, 

I found the Jamie Shawl boring to knit. As the 

shawl grew in stitches my enthusiasm waned and I mustered 

“motivational mute” to complete the knit in Worsted 

weight and start a version in DK wool. 

On my bucket list is the worsted weight, double-lined, 

colorwork Alberta Frost mitten that appeared on their 

very first podcast episode. 

I'm curious to know; which sister shawl appeals to you 

the most? Jamie's Shawl, Sarah's Shawl, Katie's Shawl, 

or Krissy's Shawl? 

Let's chat about it! 

Jo Bob – Commentator 

Knit Nite Podcast 

17

-BONUS- 

BEAR ARMS 

Mystery Square 

by Goosemom 

PATTERN DESCRIPTION 

Each issue of Blocked will contain a “secret” 

pattern. The design will only be revealed as you 

knit. The instructions might uncover an image, design, 

word, or message. 

When using cotton, these secret squares make 

excellent dishcloths. If you make 4 or 5 of each 

square in wool or acrylic, they can be seamed 

together at the end of the year to make a small 

Afghan or lap blanket. 

GAUGE & MATERIALS 

Each dishident uses approximately 

41 to 43g of worsted weight 100% cotton. 

Follow the yarn manufacturer’s 

recommended needle size. 

DIRECTIONS 

Cast on 45 

Row 1(RS): P45. 

Row 2(WS): K3, p39, k3. 

Row 3: P3, k39, p3. 

Row 4: K3, p11, k5, p23, k3. 

Row 5: P3, k12, p7, k3, p6, k11, p3. 

Row 6: K3, p11, k7, p2, k7, p12, k3. 

Row 7: P3, k12, p7, k2, p6, k12, p3. 

Row 8: K3, p13, k5, p2, k7, p12, k3. 

Row 9: P3, k14, p5, k2, p5, k13, p3. 

Row 10: K3, p13, k5, p2, k5, p14, k3. 




Row 14: K3, p13, k5, p2, k5, p14, k3. 






18

Row 20: K3, p7, k1, p5, k5, p2, k5, p14, k3. 

Row 21: P3, k14, p5, k2, p5, k4, p1, k1, p1, k6, p3. 

Row 22: K3, p5, k1, p3, k1, p3, k5, p2, k5, p14, k3. 

Row 23: P3, k14, p12, k3, p1, k3, p1, k5, p3. 





Row 28: K3, p6, k1, p4, k14, p14, k3. 


Row 30: K3, p8, k1, p4, k11, p15, k3. 

Row 31: P3, k9, p6, k1, p4, k8, p2, k9, p3. 

Row 32: K3, p11, k1, p2, k5, p4, k8, p8, k3. 

Row 33: P3, k7, p10, k2, p10, k10, p3. 

Row 34: K3, p9, k11, p1, k11, p7, k3. 

Row 35: P3, k7, p12, k1, p11, k8, p3. 

Row 36: K3, p8, k9, p3, k4, p4, k4, p7, k3. 

Row 37: P3, k7, p4, k1, p7, k1, p2, k4, p5, k8, p3. 

Row 38: K3, p8, k5, p1, k5, p1, k3, p2, k2, p1, k4, p7, k3. 

Row 39: P3, k7, p4, k1, p1, k7, p5, k1, p5, k8, p3. 

Row 40: K3, p8, k17, p2, k5, p7, k3. 

Row 41: P3, k7, p4, k2, p18, k8, p3. 

Row 42: K3, p9, k18, p2, k2, p8, k3. 

Row 43: P3, k8, p1, k2, p18, k10, p3. 

Row 44: K3, p11, k18, p2, k1, p7, k3. 

Row 45: P3, k6, p1, k2, p1, k1, p16, k12, p3. 

Row 46: K3, p14, k13, p3, k1, p2, k1, p5, k3. 

Row 47: P3, k4, p1, k2, p1, k5, p11, k15, p3. 

Row 48: K3, p16, k9, p7, k1, p2, k1, p3, k3. 

Row 49: P3, k2, p1, k2, p1, k7, p11, k15, p3. 

Row 50: K3, p15, k11, p8, k1, p1, k1, p2, k3. 

Row 51: P3, k2, p2, k9, p11, k15, p3. 

Row 52: K3, p15, k11, p13, k3. 

Row 53: P3, k13, p11, k15, p3. 

Row 54: K3, p14, k12, p13, k3. 

Row 55: P3, k12, p14, k13, p3. 

Row 56: K3, p13, k14, p12, k3. 

Row 57: P3, k12, p14, k13, p3. 

Row 58: K3, p13, k4, p6, k4, p12, k3. 

Row 59: P3, k39, p3. 

Row 60: K3, p39, k3. 

Row 61: P3, k39, p3. 

Row 62: K3, p39, k3. 

Bind off all sts. 

Weave in ends and 

block as necessary. 

TIPS 

If preferred, slip the first OR the last stitch of every row to create a 

neater edge. When purling a stitch immediately after knitting a 

stitch, pull the excess yarn out of the purl stitch before knitting or 

purling on. This helps to reduce loose or baggy knit stitches. 

NOTES 

Occasionally, a dishident or secret square might not be 

suitable for children and “polite company”. This will be made 

clear when this is the case. 

If you would like to receive notifications of our next issue! 

Check out our Patreon! 


19

y Uknitted Kingdom 

BEAR SIZED 

AT THE 

BARE MINIMUM 

“Size-inclusivity” is again taking up space in the knit/crochet world. 

With 54.5K YouTube subscribers (as of April 2024), the most vocal proponents of size inclusivity have been 

Traci and Jodi of the Grocery Girls Knit channel. 

Both Traci and Jodi state they are plus-sized knitters and as they’re at the top end of many patterns they 

believe every size and every body should be catered for within the pattern sizing. 

In October 2023, the pair spoke at length about how annoyed they were with designers. 

Excerpts from Grocery Girls Knit Ep 192, 12 Oct 2023, 1:21:34 – 1:29:20 

https://www.youtube.com/live/Hmqw80JVfZY?si=oTYTnE5VvOUkXSK2&t=4894 

Jodi: “It’s 2023 and you can’t grade it to a 70? Shame on you! That’s what I say.” 

Traci: “60 should be the bare minimum!” 

Traci: “Everybody should be able to knit a sweater without having to modify it, your size should be there.” 

Traci: “ I’m not here… 

Jodi: “We are… we are…” 

Traci: “… to trash anybody, it’s the whole mindset that bothers me…” 

Jodi, “I’m here to trash. Sorry. It’s f**king annoying!”. 

Their anger crossed into 2024, and, in January, they publicly called out the designer PetiteKnit for releasing 

her “Cloud Sweater.” The pattern is available in the following sizes, XXS (XS) S (M) L (XL) 2XL (3XL) 4XL (5XL) 

which fit busts from 29½”-59”. However, the Grocery Girls were not content with this. 

The smaller sizes had 9¾” of positive ease written into the pattern, whereas the larger sizes had positive ease 

which reduced as the size increased. Neither considered for a moment that there might be a reason for this. 

Instead, they, whilst admitting to having no sweater design knowledge, condemned Petiteknits for not being 

size-inclusive. 

Excerpts from Grocery Girls Knit, Ep 196, 10 Jan 2024, 1:10:45 to 1:21:51 

https://www.youtube.com/live/cfyoWagXuNY?si=ozj2cxlJJLymx4nE&t=4240 

Jodi: “I don’t want a designer to decide for me if I’m knitting the larger size, that my ease should be smaller.” 

Jodi: “You guys, in 2024 we need to be better… It is important to us that we don’t show patterns, moving 

forward, that don’t include every size and every body… It makes me angry.” 

Designing for every size and every body is impossible. Must designers include instructions for modifying a 

pattern for amputees or those with physical deformities? How about the person so obese she is confined to a 

bed, over 45st (286kg, 630lbs), and needs XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXL sized clothing? (A real example from 2010). 

https://www.mirror.co.uk/news/weird-news/worlds-biggest-pants-unveiled---266636 


20

Bear Sized... Continued... 

Human bodies do not grow fatter in a uniform manner. No two obese bodies are the same. A mathematician 

might be able to calculate how many million design options there would need to be for a simple sweater to fit 

every conceivable body currently living in the world, but knitwear designers cannot reasonably be expected to 

do that. 

In February 2024, Traci and Jodi hosted an Instagram live and invited Kim McBrien Evans of Indigodragonfly 

to discuss the grading of Petiteknit’s patterns. 

Kim has devoted many years to researching size and grading for knitting patterns and created a sizing chart 

which claims to be more representative of modern bodies and plus sizes, available from the digits & threads 

website at: 

https://www.digitsandthreads.ca/new-representative-sizing-standards-for-garments-that-fit/ 

It was satisfying to watch their faces drop as Kim explained that PetiteKnit used a grading system known as 

“proportionate grading.” To maintain the silhouette of the worn sweater the positive ease gets incrementally 

smaller the larger the sweater gets. This is a design choice that shows 

skill and consideration on PetiteKnit’s part. Many designers use the 

“fixed grading” system, whereby the size is scaled up or down with no 

consideration for how the garment drapes or looks when worn by all 

sizes. Both approaches have their purpose. 

After being proved wrong in such a public fashion neither of the 

Grocery Girls have subsequently offered a public apology to Petite- 

Knit. Instead, they have chosen to gloss over their original intentions. 

To add insult to injury, Jodi’s own hat patterns are not size-inclusive. 

The ASTM standards state the head girth of a man goes up to 27¼“ 

(69.2cm). However, none of Jodi’s hats accommodate anyone with a 

head girth larger than a size Large. By Jodi’s standards, her own hats 

fall short. 

Jodi, if you want to criticize designers then start with yourself. 

It’s 2024, so do better! 

In closing, here are some options if you find your size isn’t 

included in a knitting pattern: 

● Ask the designer politely if your size is available. 

Accept the response. 

● Commission someone to modify the pattern to your size. 

● Lose weight. 

● Take the time to learn how to grade patterns to your specific size, 

then knit any pattern you choose. 

The ASTM body measurement standards can be purchased here: 

https://www.astm.org/catalogsearch/result/?q=body+measurements 

21

Podcasts! 

https://www.youtube.com/@TwoSistersAndSomeYarn 

https://www.youtube.com/@knitnite/featured 

https://www.youtube.com/@politicallyincorrectknitters 

SUBSCRIBE TO OUR 

CHANNEL! 

https://youtube.com/@blockedmagazine2859?si=-0u_JNUgDq7SHVcE 

22

KNITTING ABBREVIATIONS 

BIL: Braided Increase Left. If you need more help, watch 

Anne’s video at: 

https://youtu.be/axfS2vShbQY?si=6RDciJoLrDkiQUKa 

Step 1- Knit to previously crossed (increased) stitch. 

Step 2- Insert working needle into stitch 2 to the right 

and 1 row down from front to back. 

Step 3- Loop working yarn over needle behind work 

(a crochet hook may make this step easier). 

Step 4- Pull yarn through work and slip new stitch onto 

right needle. Do not pull the new stitch too tightly 

or your work will bunch up. Continue with pattern 

as instructed. 

BIR: Braided Increase Right. If you need more help, watch 

Anne’s video at: 

https://youtu.be/axfS2vShbQY?si=6RDciJoLrDkiQUKa 

Step 1- Knit to 1 st before previously crossed (increased) 

stitch. 

Step 2- Insert working needle into stitch 2 to the left and 

1 row down from front to back. 

Step 3- Loop working yarn over needle behind work 

(a crochet hook may make this step easier). 

Step 4- Pull yarn through work and cross new stitch over 

the 2 sts still on left needle, then slip onto right needle. 

Do not pull the new stitch too tightly or your work will 

bunch up. Continue with pattern as instructed, knitting 

the crossed stitches as the next 2 stitches of the pattern. 

CC: Contrasting Color. 

K: Knit. 

K2tog: Knit 2 sts together. 

Kitchener Stitch: Put half of stitches on each needle with 

RSs facing out and needle points to the right. Thread a 

tapestry needle with yarn tail. 

Setup 1- Insert tapestry needle purlwise into 1st st on 

front needle and draw yarn through. 

Setup 2. Insert tapestry needle knitwise into 1st st on 

back needle and draw yarn through. 

Step 1- Insert tapestry needle into 1st st on front needle 

knitwise and draw yarn through. 

Drop st from needle. 

Step 2- Insert tapestry needle into the next stitch on front 

needle purlwise and draw yarn through. 

Leave st on needle. 

Step 3- Insert tapestry needle into 1st st on back needle 

purlwise and draw yarn through. Drop st from needle. 

Step 4- Insert tapestry needle into next st on back needle 

knitwise and draw yarn through. Leave st on needle. 

Rep Steps 1-4 until all sts are worked. 

LH: Left Hand. 

M1: Make 1. 

MB: Make Bobble (Mini-Bobble). 

Step 1: KFBF (knit front, back, front) into the next stitch. 

Step 2: Individually pass second and first sts on right 

needle over third st. 

Step 3: Bring working yarn to front and slip st back to 

left needle. 

BRAIDED 

INCREASE 

LEFT 

BRAIDED 

INCREASE 

RIGHT 

Step 4: Bring working yarn under bobble and return to 

the back. 

Step 5: Return st to right needle and continue with pattern. 

MC: Main Color. 

M1R: Right-leaning make 1. 

P: Purl. 

PM: Place Marker. 

PU: Pick Up. 

Rep: Repeat. 

RH: Right Hand. 

RS: Right Side. 

Sl: Slip stitch, always slip sts purlwise unless otherwise 

indicated. 

Sk2p: Slip, knit, pass - Slip 1 st knitwise, k2 stitches and 

pass the first stitch over the other two stitches. 

Ssk: Slip, slip, knit – Slip 1st st knitwise, slip 2nd st knitwise, 

knit both together tbl. 

St(s): Stitch(es). 

Tbl: Through back loop. 

WS: Wrong Side. 

23

MEMENTO 

MORI 

SHOOTER’S 

MITTS 

by Anne Pinkava 

YARN 

• MC Skeinz Vintage DK 8ply (100% Wool 50gm/1.76oz, 

101m/110.45y) Charcoal (Example used approx. 170 y/81g) 

• CC Chicken Lady Fiber Arts DK Sock (75% Superwash 

Merino, 25% Nylon 100g/3.5oz, 245yd/224) Chickadee 

(Example used approx. 30y/12g) 

NOTIONS 

• US size 3 (3.25mm) 

• 2 stitch markers 

• Tapestry needle. 

GAUGE 

• Stockinette in the round 28 st x 36 rnds = 4” x 4” 

• Stranded knitting in the round 32 st x 36 rnds = 4” x4” 

SIZE 

• Women’s large: 8½” around at the palm, 8” from the top of mitt to cuff. 

Note: For help with the Braided Increase stitch, see the abbreviations page or watch Anne’s video at 

https://youtu.be/axfS2vShbQY?si=4QTa-Jzi1pikM5kZ 

PATTERN 

Cuff: 

With MC, CO 64 sts and join in the round. 

Work K1P1 ribbing for 20 rounds. 

Knit 2 rounds. 

Start Right Chart. On Round 8, PM at the end of the round and after the M1. 

This will mark the thumb stitches that will go onto a holder once they are all completed. 

On Round 29, put thumb stitches on holder, and cast on 1 st before joining again in the round. 

Cut CC, leaving a tail, and knit 3 rounds. 

Forefinger: 

Set up: K9 and put 48 sts on a st holder. M2 st and join in the round, then knit the remaining 9 sts on the back 

side. (20 sts total) 

Rounds 1-20: Knit. 

Round 21: K2, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k2. (16 sts rem) 


Round 24: K1, k2tog 7X, k1. (9 sts rem) 

24

Memento Mori Mitts Continued... 

Round 25: Knit. 

Round 26: K2tog 4X, k1. (5 sts rem) 

Round 27: K2tog 2X, k1. (3 sts rem) 

Cut yarn and use tapestry needle to thread tail through 

remaining 3 sts. Pull tight. 

Hand: 

Set Up: Starting at marker for hand, PU 1 st, knit 48 sts, 

PU 1 st. (50 st total) 

Round 1: K22, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k22. (48 sts) 

Rounds 2-3: Knit 

Round 4: K1, k2tog, k18, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k18, k2tog, k1. 

(44 sts) 




Round 10: K1, k2tog, k15, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k15, k2tog, 

k1. (38 sts) 



Round 14-15: Knit 

Round 16: K1, k2tog, k12, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k12, k2tog, 

k1. (32 sts) 

Round 17: Knit 

Round 18: K13, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k13 (30 sts) 











Cut yarn leaving approx. 14” tail. Close opening using 

Kitchener stitch. 

Thumb: 

Round 1: PU 1 from edge, k20 from holder, PU 1. (22 sts) 




Round 7: K1, k2tog, k14, k2tog, k1. (18 sts) 




Round 13: K1, k2tog, k10, k2tog, k1. (14 sts) 

Rounds 14-15: Knit 


(10 sts) 


Round 19: K2tog, k1, k2tog, k2tog, k1, k2tog. (6 sts) 

Close opening using Kitchener stitch. 

Weave in all ends and block as needed. 

Repeat for left hand using Left Chart. 

Alternate instructions for individual fingers: 

Middle finger: 

PU 1 st from first finger, k9 off the front st holder, CO 2 

sts, k9 off back st holder, PU 1. (22 sts) 

Round 1: K2tog, k9, k2tog, k9. (20 sts) 



(16 sts) 


Round 27: K1, k2tog 7X, k1. (9 sts) 


Round 29: K2tog 4X, k1. (5 sts) 




Ring finger: 

PU 1 from middle finger, k8 from front holder, CO 2, k8 

from back holder, PU 1. (20 sts) 



(16 sts) 


Round 24: K1, k2tog 7X, K1. (9 sts) 






Pinky finger: 

PU 1 from fore finger, k14 from holder, PU 1. (16 st) 


Round 16: K1, k2tog 7X, k1. (9 sts) 


Round 19: K2tog, k5, k2tog. (7 sts) 





Weave in all ends and block as desired. 

25

Momento Mori Left 

Momento Mori Right 

26

Book Review 

by Katie Gerwien, khgknits 

Sweater Knitting Method Review 

Ziggurats: 16 Elegantly Seamless Knits: Sweaters, Cardigans, Tutorials 

Neil suggested I review Ziggurats: 16 Elegantly 

Seamless Knits, written by Åsa Tricosa (whose real 

name is Åsa Söderman) for Blocked Magazine. I remember 

watching the Fruity Knitting podcast interview 

of the author and being impressed by the 

designs in the book. The sweater designs are classic 

and have beautiful finishing options. I was also looking 

for my next winter sweater to knit, thus here is the solution: 

knit a sweater from the book to assist in writing 

this review and add a winter sweater to my wardrobe 

at the same time. 

What is the Ziggurat Method? It is a method developed 

by Söderman with shaped necklines to curve 

with our backs, set in sleeves, and integrated buttons 

and pockets. 

The book was published in 2018 by Söderman, 

whose website (https://www.asatricosa.com/zigguratbook/) 

lists several locations for purchasing the book. 

When you purchase a physical copy of the book, an e- 

book version is included, or you can purchase the e- 

book separately. As of 11 March 2024, Söderman’s 

website says the book costs £35 British and the linked 

US seller lists it for $49.99, but it is currently out of 

stock. Several paperback copies were available as of 

11 March 2024 on Amazon, ranging from $150.00 to 

$214.09, but all were gone by the publishing of this review. 

The book has a brief introduction to the concept, 

16 sweater patterns for women, tutorials, a resources 

guide, and an abbreviations list. The patterns include 

tunic, cardigan and pullover sweaters using lace 

weight, fingering, sport, dk and Aran yarn, with various 

neck finishes. Every pattern, along with beautiful photos, 

has a written description with suggestions for customization. 

The sizes range from 81cm/32” to 

127cm/50”, however, the size ranges are for the 

shoulder circumference and not the traditionally used 

bust circumference. I like the detailed schematics in 

each pattern as they provide extensive measurements 

to assist the knitter in making decisions regarding 

sleeve and body length and any other adjustments 

needed for a good fit. For more information regarding 

sizing, page 220 addresses sizing using the shoulder 

width measurement, gauge, and adjusting for bust 

sizes. Within each pattern, smaller boxes are included 

to give additional stitch instructions specific to certain 

sections of the sweater construction. Knitters are told 

when to use the tutorials for executing required steps 

and instructions for the tutorials include photos. At the 

end of each pattern, there is a colored chart depicting 

when sleeve, body and neck increases occur, as well 

as buttonhole placement and underarm cast on. The 

key to success with the Ziggurat method its completing 

Steps 1 - 5. The steps are explained, with photographs, 

on pages 212 -216. Whether you use a 

hardback copy or a digital copy, you will need bookmarks 

to reference the tutorials at the end of the book 

to complete a project. I have been zigging back and 

forth between the pattern instructions and the tutorials 

at the end of the book at every step of the sweater I 

am knitting. 

What are the pros of this process? All the pros of 

top-down sweater knitting apply: 

1. You can try the sweater on as you progress to 

make sure you have the right fit. For example, I made 

an adjustment to the back of my sweater as I needed 

to include 2 back darts. 

2. No seaming is required. 

3. Some of the finishing techniques are attractive. 

4. The tutorials for casting on, short rows, increasing, 

and decreasing are good. They explain the process 

and provide good photo illustrations of the 

processes. 

Neckline after blocking. 

27

Book Review Continued... 

5. The sweater designs are classic, and the book 

provides excellent suggestions for customizing the 

patterns. 

6. The advice on fitting is explained well. The schematics 

are thorough and helpful for achieving a wellfitting 

sweater. 

What are the cons of this process? All the cons of a 

top-down sweater knitting apply, and this is a bear of a 

process for knitting a sweater! 

1. Steps 1 – 5 for the neckline cast on through the 

sleeve cap set-up are a bear to knit. There was nothing 

intuitive about the sleeve cap steps for me. I had to 

knit the process twice as I did not understand it the 

first time. The tutorial was not clear to me. I searched 

for an online tutorial for the process and could not 

find one, except a pay for class with Knit Stars. 

2. I found the color-coded charts too complicated 

and did not realize how soon I needed to start using it. 

3. Top-down sweaters are heavy to knit once you 

are knitting the body and each row is a long process. 

The weight of the sweater when using this method increased 

the wrist pain I experience. 

4. The sleeves are frustrating to knit as you must 

turn the entire body of the sweater around for each 

row of each sleeve. You also cannot knit the sleeves 

two at a time as you can when knitting sleeves flat. 

5. While some of the finishing processes are attractive, 

they are no more attractive than the results I have 

achieved using traditional 

finishing 

processes for other 

sweaters. 

While I love the 

look of the patterns 

included in this 

book, which are 

classic in design, I 

believe this review is 

appropriate for the 

Bear Arms issue as it 

has been a bear to 

knit this sweater… 

and I still have not 

finished the sweater 

I started at least 2 

months ago! I have 

been knitting 

sweaters since I was 20 years old. I never struggled 

with the patterns. I followed the directions, occasionally 

making a sizing tweak or using a different, preferred-by-me 

method for casting on, increasing, 

decreasing and the like, and ended up with a wearable 

sweater at the end of the process. With the Ziggurat 

sweater, not only did I have to frog and reknit 

the sleeve caps, but I also had to reknit the underarm 

gussets. At this point, I am knitting the body and the 

sleeves of the sweater; thus, I know I will end up with a 

sweater at the end. I finished one sleeve, only to have 

to rip the finishing at the end of the sleeve and reknit 

as the sleeve is far too long. Also, the stitch design at 

the end of the sleeve is no longer attractive when I knit 

the lined hem for the sleeve. I wish the instructions 

were clearer and/or free tutorials were available for 

clarification of the initial steps. For example, when I 

was knitting the lined hem for the bottom of the 

sweater and the sleeve, the written directions said to 

pick up stitches going counterclockwise, yet the diagram 

for the process picked up the stitches going 

clockwise. Which way are we supposed to go, clockwise 

or counterclockwise? 

I selected the Chatoyant pattern, a DK-weight 

sweater with a stitch pattern on the sides and sleeves 

to create faux seams. The same stitch pattern starts 

about a third of the way from the bottom of the 

sweater on the front and back to give vertical lines. 

The sweater includes an underarm gusset, a decorative 

stitch pattern at the base of the sleeves, and 

lined hems for the body and sleeves of the pattern. I 

like the faux seams for the sides of the sweater and the 

Sleeve lined hem with decorative 

stitch pattern. 

28 

Underarm gusset.

Book Review Continued... 

bottom third of the sweater. They were easy to execute 

and give vertical lines where I need them. The 

underarm gusset was not fun to knit (had to redo it!), 

because it is under the arm, you don’t see it, and it 

does not aid the fit of the sweater. The decorative 

stitch for the bottom of the sleeve was not hard to execute 

until I knit the lined hem. Once I worked the 

lined hem for the sleeve bottom, the last few rows of 

the decorative stitch pattern were not easy to knit, and 

I am not happy with the appearance of the decorative 

stitch pattern for the lined hem portion of the sleeve. I 

have to rip out the sleeve hem again to shorten the 

sleeve as the sleeve is too long after knitting it a second 

time! When I reknit the bottom of the sleeve, I will 

not add the decorative stitch pattern as I do not think I 

will achieve a better result with the lined hem again. 

Once nice thing about the lined hems is they were 

super easy to block. Normally when I block a sweater, 

I spend a lot of time running the blocking wires 

through the ribbing at the base of the sweater body 

and sleeve bottoms. The blocking wires went right 

through the lined hem quickly and evenly, reducing 

the amount of time I spent setting the sweater for 

blocking. The neckline is attractive, but it is very similar 

to the results I have achieved using simpler processes. 

Several years ago, I knitted Sun Rose, a top down, 

seamless, set in sleeve pattern designed by Laura 

Aylor. I had no questions following the instructions 

and completing the project, other than my overall objections 

to sweaters knit in the round. I reviewed the 

pattern again and found Laura Aylor used a simplified 

variation of the seamless, set in sleeve process from 

Barbara Walker’s 2016 book, Knitting from the Top. I 

Inside view of lined hem/bottom of body of sweater. 

would knit Sun Rose again without question. I doubt I 

will knit another Ziggurat sweater. I did a quick search 

on Ravelry and found 392 top-down, seamless, set-in 

sleeve sweater patterns listed for adults. I did not review 

the patterns, yet this search and my experience 

knitting Aylor's Sun Rose tells me you can accomplish 

the same goal of knitting a top down, seamless 

sweater with set-in sleeves without using the Ziggurat 

process. I have not read Walker’s Knitting from the Top 

and did not have time to review it for this article. You 

may want to take a look at her book if you are interested 

in this method. 

If you like the Ziggurats patterns (and there are 

more designs on Söderman’s website) you can give 

this method a go… as long as you are not in a rush to 

finish the sweater. If you experience any problems understanding 

the processes, the only resource I found 

for assistance is to pay for the Knit Stars course. If you 

like knitting from the top down, as well as having a 

set-in sleeve, this book provides 16 options for you. If 

you don’t mind seaming sweaters, I don’t know that I 

would put you through this bear of a process to complete 

a sweater that will have the same attractive finishes 

you can achieve with seaming knitted pieces 

together. Regardless of what pattern you choose, I 

wish you happiness with your knitting! 

Bottom 1/3 of sweater with decorative 

stitch pattern columns and lined hem. 

29

Bear Arms 

CROSSWORD 

DOWN: 

1. To carry or possess firearms. 

2. A handgun or pistol with a multi-chambered 

cylinder (usually holding six to eight rounds) that 

rotates with each pull of the trigger. 

3. Term for helical grooves machined into the 

internal surface of a firearm’s barrel for imparting 

a spin to a projectile to improve its aerodynamic 

stability and accuracy. 

5. Often referred to as a gun’s “kick,” or the 

backward force the gun exerts when it’s fired. 

7. Upper limbs of the human body which 

are naked or unclothed. 

10. Designers of the .41 Magazine Pistol, the 

first repeating American firearm capable of 

successfully using a fully self-contained cartridge. 

14. The part of the US Constitution which reads 

"A well-regulated Militia, being necessary to the 

security of a free State, the right of the people to 

keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed." 

17. LGBT slang term used by homosexual men 

to describe hyper masculine men who have hairy 

bodies and facial hair, or who are heavy set. 

19. What the AR in AR15 stands for. 

23. The smallest species of bear. 

24. NFL team based in Chicago, IL. 

25. The largest species of bear. 

ACROSS: 

4. The popular Australian “bear” that is not really a bear. 

6. The upper limb of the human body, especially the part 

extending from the shoulder to the wrist. 

8. Country most associated with the symbol of a bear. 

9. Arguably the most successful firearms designer of the 

19th and 20th centuries whose most successful design 

was the M1911. 

11. The large muscle that lies on the front of the upper 

arm between the shoulder and the elbow. 

12. The science and study of cartridge discharge, and the 

launch, flight, behavior, and effects of projectiles. 

13. The long bone in the arm that runs from the shoulder 

to the elbow that has a funny name. 

15. The state of bearing firearms or carrying weapons. 

16. A political rather than technical term, referring to 

firearms that changes depending on who is using it. 

18. Ammunition that contains medium or large-sized pellets 

that fire out of a shotgun shell all at once. 

19. A package of components that includes gunpowder, a 

primer, and a projectile encased in a casing. 

20. “Abe Lincoln may have freed all men, but ___ ____ 

made them equal.” 

21. Ursus arctos horribilis 

22. U.S. President whose refusal to shoot a black bear cub 

on a hunting trip led to the popularization of the “Teddy 

bear 

26. A container that holds cartridges or rounds under 

spring pressure to be fed into a gun’s chamber. 

27. The third-largest constellation containing the Big 

Dipper, 

28. The diameter of a gun’s bore (the inner diameter of 

the barrel) measured as fractions of an inch or millimeters. 

It also determines the size of ammunition that can 

be fired by the gun. 

29. A slang term for a suppressor. 

30

31

By Neil James 

“BEARING 

GUNS” AND 

“PAWS UP!” 

CROSS STITCH 

DESIGN SIZE 

“Bearing Guns” 59 stitches wide x 34 stitches high (approx. 4.2” x 2.4”) 

“Paws Up!” 43 stitches wide x 36 stitches high (approx. 3.1” x 2.6”) 

MATERIALS 

14 Count Cross Stitch Fabric / Aida 75 x 75 stitches (approx. 5.4” x 5.4”) 

Cross Stitch needle 

Embroidery Hoop (optional) 

Scissors 

NOTES 

The stitches used throughout both pieces are typical full cross stitches. 

EXCEPT for four x ¼ stitches on the “Bearing Guns” piece and eight x ¼ 

stitches on the “Paws Up!” piece. These are used for the eye(s) of each bear. 

Fig. 1 - Shows a typical full stitch on the left and four ¼ stitches on the right 

(not actual colors in this pattern). 

“Bearing Guns” Notes 

Fig. 2 - Shows the ¼ stitches used to make the eye look to the right. 

Fig. 3 - Shows the ¼ stitches used to make the eye look to the left. 

For the eyebrow use 2 strands of black and back stich between the top left 

square across to the bottom right of the next square. 

Fig. 4 - For the mouth use 2 strands of black and back stitch in the square to 

the left of the lowest nose block and stitch top left to bottom right. Then back 

stitch bottom left to top right of the square to the right of the lowest nose 

block. 

“Paws Up!” Notes 

Fig. 5 - As per Fig. 2 Use the ¼ stitches to make the eyes look to the left or to 

the right. 

Fig. 6 - As above 

Fig. 7 - For the mouth use 2 strands of black and back stitch in the square to 

the bottom left of the lowest nose block and stitch bottom left to top right. 

Then back stitch top left to bottom right of the square to the bottom right of 

the lowest nose block. 

Fig. 1 Fig. 2 

Fig. 3 Fig. 4 

Fig. 5 Fig. 6 

Fig. 7 

32

Bearing Guns Continued... 

33



34


35

36 

Bearing Guns Continued...

y mockingbirdsrealm 

BARE ARMS 

37

By Neil James 

BLOCKED 

LOGO 

38

By Neil James 

39

“Colorwork Knitting Charts” 

Each issue we’ll have original colorwork chart repeats which can 

be used in your projects. Ensure your project has a stitch count 

divisible by the number of columns in the chart. Repeat the chart 

as many times as required. Or, Use these charts to create your 

own Cross Stitch Projects!

UPCOMING ISSUES 

Anne Pinkava 

Knitting Patterns 

www.lovecrafts.com/en-us/user/maker/fdba7e1e-93b6-4b6f-9f82-06ef18d0ec8c 


https://www.ravelry.com/designers/liz-clothier 


https://galilee-life.com/vendor/deplorable-knitter/ 

AND CHECK OUT THESE PATTERN CONTRIBUTORS!

NEEDS YOU! 

© 2022 Conley Olson, @NantucketStudios 

WE’RE LOOKING FOR: 

• Test Knitters/Crocheters 

• Podcasters/Vloggers 

• Designers 

• Writers 

• Artists 

If you are interested in 

being a contributor 

email: blockedmagazine@gmx.com 

Patron Checkout | Patreon 


Although Blocked is free to read, it isn’t free to produce. Without the generosity of patrons, 

Blocked would not be possible. There are overheads that need to be met including subscriptions for software, 

the magazine online platform, a future website, and time. 

If you have enjoyed this issue, please consider becoming a patron. 

Patrons receive the magazine a week before general release, see exclusive content, 

get to vote on future content, and may receive exclusive offers. 

More details available on the Patreon site linked above.

Acknowledgments 

BLOCKED has been made 

possible by the generosity and 

goodwill of far too many people to 

name individually. 

Thank you to all the designers, 

writers, photographers, artists, 

patrons, advertisers and, of 

course you the reader.

BLOCKED_14_FINAL

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

Delete template?

Save as template?