Live & Grow Issue 50

IN THIS ISSUE...
Grow and nurture your green thumb
with the garden experts this autumn.
Healthy Soil – Healthy
Gardens
Soil is the foundation of any great
garden. Healthy garden soil improves
your plants' health, and healthy plants
are less likely to get pests or diseases.
Edible Gardens
This issue is packed with edible inspiration
to get your green thumb growing. Whether
you want to grow leafy greens, garlic or
mushrooms, or learn about compost
and crop rotation, we have you covered.
Lawns – Repair or
Rejuvenate
Whether you have a new piece of land to
convert to a lawn or want to replenish or
renew an existing lawn, we will help you
have the best lawn on the block.
Issue 50 | Autumn 2023

Autumn 2023
What’s inside
8
2
4 Oderings-Grown
Bedding
New season's plants from the
Oderings Wholesale team.
5
6
Easy Growing with Oyster
Mushrooms
Growing oyster mushrooms has never
been easier with an Oak and Spore
Mushroom kit.
Leafy Greens
The top autumn leafy greens to grow
for an essential part of any healthy
diet.
8 Olives
Dreaming of the Mediterranean or of
making olive oil or pickled olives? We
have you covered.
10
Crop Rotation
Crop rotation is easy when you have
the know-how and can be planted in
the garden or raised beds.
12
14
15
Sprouts & Microgreens
Easy to grow, you can harvest
microgreens and sprouts year-round
from the comfort of your kitchen.
Growing Garlic
Growing garlic is easy, and with some
know-how, this can become one of the
many successful crops you can grow
this season.
Safely Feed Your Feathered
Friends
Our friends at Topflite give us the inside
info on how to feed your feathered
friends safely.
16
Composting Made Easy
Cold composting is considered the easiest
way to compost at home because it
requires little work to set up and almost no
maintenance or monitoring.
18 Lomandra
Adds yearlong beauty to any easy-care,
no-fuss space.
19
20
22
24
26
27
Peperomia Leaf Cuttings
This method can be used to propagate
different varieties of Peperomia.
Bold Houseplants
Bold houseplant foliage colours for autumn
and winter houseplant enthusiasts.
Make the Cut for Your
Houseplants
Become the propagation pro with the right
cutting mix to grow top-grade plants at
home.
Oderings-Grown Colour and
Foliage
Our selection of the best plants for
adding contrast, texture and flower
colour this season.
BioShield Grass Grub Control
Lawns with dead patches are a tell-tale
sign of a grass grub infestation.
Rejuvenate Your Lawn with Tui
Autumn is the perfect time for lawn
renovations, including re-sowing and
removing pesky broadleaf weeds
established over the summer months.
28
30
31
32
34
Lawns – Sow a New Lawn or
Rejuvenate Patches
Many of us may wonder why it matters
what type of lawn seed we use, but it
honestly does.
Keeping Your Lawn Healthy in
Autumn with Kiwicare
Kiwicare has a range of specialist lawn
products designed to make life easier and
help you get a lawn that makes others green
with envy.
X-It Ant
Get rid of ants inside and out with this tested
and proven ant control technology.
Oderings Soil Selection
You need to start with your soil if your plants
aren't performing.
Soil – The Foundation of any
Good Garden
Before you plant anything in the garden, the
most crucial investment should be in the
soil.
36 Hedging
Are you looking to grow a garden border
or a formal hedge along your driveway or
fences? There are no rules to what you can
create with hedges.
38
Perennials – Divide and Conquer
As the garden rests and recovers from the
growing period, autumn and winter are the
perfect time to catch up with perennial care,
maintenance and propagation.

Welcome Back
Welcome back to issue number 50 of the Oderings Live & Grow magazine.
For those of you who are new customers to Oderings, welcome! You may not
realise it, but Oderings is a family-owned and operated company that has been in
existence since 1929. We have a passion for plants and everything gardens, and that
coupled with our knowledge and experience is why we are known as the garden
experts.
Did you know autumn is often referred to as Nature's Planting Time? This is because
plants have a chance to set their roots for spring growth, and the soil is naturally
cool and retains water, giving plants the best possible start. To have healthy plants
you need to start with the soil; great soil is the foundation of any great garden. To
learn how to renew, replenish and restore your soil have a look at page 34.
Oderings have always prided ourselves on having gardening gurus at all of our
seven locations nationwide, and often the ideas for the magazine come from
the questions customers ask the Oderings teams. In this edition you will notice a
definite trend to natural products and earthy skills, with articles about crop rotation,
composting made easy, how to grow garlic, leafy greens, microgreens, mushrooms
and sprouts.
Oderings started the Live & Grow magazine as an information tool for you, our loyal
customers. We concentrate on seasonal, topical plants and products, and hope that
as we pass on some of our knowledge and our passion to you via this magazine,
that you can also grow and nurture your own green thumb.
With the floods affecting Hawkes Bay so badly, I wanted to update you about the
Napier store. The water hit the ceiling (you can see some images on the Oderings
Hawkes Bay Facebook page), and there was no salvageable stock. The building
has been yellow-stickered, and we don’t know when we can move back in, but we
are working hard in the background. In the meantime, we would love to see you at
the Havelock store. If you placed orders with Napier, please call the Havelock site
because all that info was lost.
We want to thank you all for your kindness and well wishes.
The offers of support and help were so thoughtful, and we
appreciate all the kindness in such adversity.
If there is something you would like to know or need help
with, pop in and visit one of our garden experts today.
Happy Gardening
Pamela Smith
Editor
8
Oderings
Live & Grow
Editor Pamela Smith
Advertising Nicola McKee
Design Melody Dai
Contributors Pamela Smith,
Daniel Hart, Jenna Zanchettin
Contact Us
Oderings Garden Centres Head Office
92 Stourbridge Street, Spreydon,
Christchurch 8024
PO Box 33125, Barrington
Christchurch 8244
P: 03 332 9099 F: 03 332 1585
info@oderings.co.nz
www.oderings.co.nz
Store Locations
Barrington 03 332 9099
92 Stourbridge St, Christchurch
Cashmere 03 338 5193
205 Cashmere Rd, Christchurch
Linwood 03 982 3498
485 Linwood Ave, Christchurch
Philpotts 03 385 2386
116 Philpotts Rd, Christchurch
Yaldhurst 03 342 9198
20 West Coast Rd, Christchurch
Havelock North 06 877 3051
57 Brookvale Rd
Palmerston North 06 356 6797
136 Cook St, West End
© All content and images in this publication are subject to
copyright and reproduction of any part is strictly prohibited.
20
3

ODERINGS-GROWN
Bedding
NEW
Pansy Coastal Shades
This collection of pansies offers unique and
stunning colours. Large petals atop short stems
face the sun. Velvety black, butterfly-shaped
centres of the petals are surrounded by a deep
blue, ruby red, or sunset-gold peach. A striking
inclusion for your garden beds, containers, or pots.
Pansy Angel Blue
Another excellent addition for your
garden and planters. The centre
of the inner petals has dark-violet,
angel-shaped wings outlined by
a celestial white, which fades into
a periwinkle blue. This ethereal,
fragrant pansy attracts bees,
butterflies, and birds.
Pansy Cascade True Blue
The world’s first true cascading blue
pansy. Adored for this habit, it is
perfect for pots, planters and baskets,
where the wave of superb colour can
cascade up to 45cm. Although more
petite, with medium-sized mid-blue
blooms, the striking colour will grab
your attention.
Pansy Sizzling
Raspberry
Frilly flowers of raspberry outer
petals fade through vanilla to
deep plum. This beautiful plant
is a must-have in your garden
from late winter into spring and
is ideal for revitalising your beds,
containers, and window boxes.
NEW NEW NEW
KEY
4
Edible
Flowers
Frost
Hardy
Full Sun/
Part Shade
Well-Drained
Soil
Garden
Pots &
Planters

Easy Growing with
Oyster Mushrooms
Hobby mushroom growing at home has revolutionised
in recent years and is now widespread and trendy
due to documentaries such as Fantastic Fungi on
Netflix. Many Kiwis are familiar with the common
button mushroom sold in supermarkets nationwide,
but oyster mushrooms are another type of mushroom
in New Zealand which is delicious and easy to grow.
Oyster mushrooms are a mushroom variety that
grows fairly quickly. On average, a harvest can
be ready in 2–3 weeks! Another positive is that
they forgive many mistakes from most beginner
mushroom growers. Mushroom growing is an
activity suitable for all ages and anyone interested in
cultivating or growing exciting things in their home.
What are Oyster Mushrooms?
Oyster mushrooms (species name being Pleurotus spp) are
common edible and nutritious fungi that come in different
varieties around the world. In New Zealand, you usually come
across Italian, Pink, or the native Velvet Oyster. Italian Oysters
are a beautiful light brown colour with a superior taste and
texture to the familiar button. Pink Oysters are a gorgeous
light pink colour and, according to many people, have a taste
akin to bacon. Oyster mushrooms have a short shelf life, so
they are not particularly suitable to sell in supermarkets, but
they are effortless to grow!
How to grow them?
Growing oyster mushrooms has never been easier with an
Oak & Spore Mushroom kit. These kits are designed so all
the hard work is done, and no pre-sterilisation or inoculation
is required.
Contrary to popular belief, oyster mushrooms need light to
grow, so don't leave them in a dark cupboard! Ideally, place
the kit in a warm spot like the kitchen, laundry or bathroom.
Then mist daily with water to ensure the kit attains ideal
humidity and temperature levels. Within only days or weeks,
you will begin to see mushrooms pinning from the kit, which
will quickly grow into a beautiful mushroom crop (also known
as flush in mushroom lingo).
When to harvest?
The optimal time to harvest oyster mushrooms is when the
caps have fully opened and the gills underneath are visible.
At this point, the mushrooms will be at their peak flavour and
texture. If you wait too long to harvest, the mushrooms will
start to degrade in quality and may begin to release spores,
which can affect their flavour and shelf life.
About Oak and Spore Mushroom Farm
Tom, the founder of Oak & Spore, is a veteran of the
Afghanistan conflict and an ex-police officer. He accidentally
fell into the mushroom growing scene after watching some
YouTube videos. He started Oak & Spore as a hobby from his
garage in 2018, and it has since evolved into a commercial
mushroom farm in Christchurch. Alongside his wife Nicky,
they are very passionate about hobby mushroom growing
and are stoked to create a product that allows others to enjoy
mushroom growing at home.
5

Leafy
Greens
Leafy greens are an essential part of any
healthy diet. They are packed with vitamins,
minerals, fibre and are low in calories.
OUR TOP PICKS
Bok choy
Also known as the Chinese cabbage,
the thick, dark-green leaves are a great
addition to soups and stir-fries.
Kale
Is one of the most nutrient-dense
vegetables on the planet and is best
consumed raw.
Silverbeet
Have you tried the rainbow-coloured
variety? Great in soups, casseroles
and even tacos.
6

Microgreens
Despite their size, they are full of
colour, flavour and nutrients. Find
a great selection of microgreens in
our seed section instore.
Cabbage
In colours of green and purple.
Delicious either cooked or raw.
Lettuce
Because lettuce contains 95 percent
water, it’s a great veggie to help hydrate
the body.
Gai lan
Also known as Chinese broccoli,
harvested after only 40 days, it’s
a good source of iron and can be
eaten raw or cooked.
Rocket
Has a delicious peppery taste and is
often used in salads and as a garnish.
Spinach
Popular and incorporated into a variety
of dishes, either fresh or cooked.
Choy sum
You can eat the whole plant
including the yellow flowers which
have a mild mustard flavour. A
good source of calcium and iron.
7

Olives
Dreaming of the Mediterranean or of making
olive oil or pickled olives? Grown for their
hardiness and delicious fruit, olives grow
worldwide and can be planted to make a
beautiful feature in your home landscape,
looking good in pots or as a feature specimen
tree in your garden.
The olive is a relatively easy-care tree to look
after for the home gardener. They like to grow
in a warm, sunny position with well-drained
soil. They do not like wet feet, although they
require regular watering in the summer and
autumn, especially when they are young
trees. This encourages good healthy growth.
Koroneiki
A self-fertile variety with an attractive, smallersized
shrubby tree bearing large crops of small
fruit. This variety produces high-quality extra
virgin olive oil. With a low chill requirement, it
is well suited to coastal and warmer areas and
colder climates.
Barnea
A commercial variety used extensively. Grows
very quickly with a high-yielding oil. The fruit is
good for pickling and as a table fruit. Semi selffertile.
Not ideal for areas with long cold winters.
8
Verdale
A large fruiting, self-fertile variety. The fruit is
suitable for pickling when either green or black.
Good cropper with a high oil percentage. Hardy
to cold climates.

Pruning
Olives require pruning to keep their shape, either the
typical 'Vase' or 'Conical' shape. Pruning encourages
the new season's growth, producing fruit for you in
the following season. However, if you have an olive
tree planted in your garden for purely aesthetic
looks rather than for the crop, then pruning will not
be required quite as often. Pruning is usually done
after the harvest in the autumn/winter months,
depending on where you are in New Zealand. A light
prune may be given after the flowering has finished
in November/December. Sometimes suckers may
appear at the tree's base, which should be removed.
If you are hoping for a good crop of olives, here are
a few tips for pruning:
• Prune after harvest on a sunny, dry day.
• Prune each year, keeping branches at a short
length; otherwise, they will be too long and may
snap with the weight of the fruit.
• When pruning to a typical 'vase’ shape aim to
keep the tree open and airy, allowing a bird to
fly through.
• Clear the trunk of any branches up to 60 cm
above the ground.
• Tip all branches to encourage more growth,
more branches, and therefore more fruit.
Feeding
Fertilising your olive tree will encourage and
enhance the health and growth of your tree. A
regular dose of Citrus Tree Fertiliser in autumn and
spring will benefit your tree. In pots, use a slowrelease
fertiliser such as Oderings Total Replenish.
Varieties & Pollination
Although there are self-fertile varieties, planting two
or more is better to encourage larger crops. Olive
trees are wind pollinated, with pollen moving 20–30
metres from tree to tree, so plant the partner tree
close. Our top choices to the left all have fruit that
ripen in autumn, changes from green through red to
purple-black, and grow to approximately 4 m over
ten years when pruned.
Pickling Recipe
Ingredients
• Green Olives (whatever amount you want to
pickle)
• Non-iodised salt
• Water
Method
1. Remove leaves and stalks and wash olives to
remove dust and dirt.
2. Carefully slit each olive to release oleic acid.
Although time-consuming, if you don't do this,
you will end up with bitter olives once they
have been pickled.
3. Place in a pickling jar with a self-sealing lid.
4. Fill with brine made up with 100 g non-iodised
salt per litre of water, making sure all the
olives are covered.
5. After three weeks, drain and wash the olives.
Repack in the same cleaned jar and cover
with a new brine mixture of 75 g non-iodised
salt per litre of water. Alternatively, you can
use 950 ml water and 50 ml white wine
vinegar. Make sure all olives are well covered
with 2 cm brine on top.
6. Cover the brine with a thick layer of olive oil to
create a seal.
7. Leave olives for three months for best results.
When ready to eat, you may wish to rinse
them in cold water to wash the brine off.
Olive Oil Recipe
You can make small batches of olive oil with some
standard kitchen tools. However, the process is
labour-intensive, but the result should be crisp,
clean, and of high quality. Visit our website for the
recipe. https://www.oderings.co.nz
9

Planting groups of plants in different
locations each year and coordinating
crops to match soil conditions is called
'crop rotation'. We are often asked
why crop rotation is essential. The
simple answer is that rotating crops
prevents the soil's buildup of pest and
diseases by disrupting their life cycle
and naturally reduces the soil's chance
of retaining nasties from the previous
season. Many garden pests can build
up immunity to some insecticides, and
crop rotation is a simple, chemicalfree
way to stop the buildup of pests
and diseases. Another bonus is that a
crop in a rotation can produce up to
25 percent more than a crop planted
in the same spot year after year. This
is because all plants take up different
nutrients from the soil.
Certain crops are a must if you don't have the
space to rotate your entire veggie patch. These
are tomatoes, potatoes and brassicas (cabbage,
cauliflower and broccoli), making it harder for soilborne
diseases and pests to attack them.
Traditionally there is a four-bed crop rotation. Each
of the garden's four sections (beds) grows the
same crop only every fourth year. In year one, crop
#1 is planted in the first bed, crop #2 in the second
bed and so on. The following year each crop is
moved to the next bed: #1 is moved to the second
bed in year two, then to the third and fourth beds
in the third and fourth years. So this rotation works
over four years. This rotation does not include herbs
and long-term crops such as asparagus, rhubarb,
berries, citrus, and other fruit trees.
#1 #2 #3 #4
TOMATOES AND HEAT
LOVERS
This group of heavy
feeders should be
followed by #4, the
legume family, to help
replace the nutrients in
the soil naturally.
ROOT CROPS
These need a rootbased
fertiliser with
plenty of phosphorus.
Avoid high-nitrogen
fertilisers.
LEAFY AND GREEN
Brassicas are heavy
feeders prone to
clubroot. Incorporate
plenty of lime for
brassicas and nitrogen
for other leafy greens.
LEGUMES
(Bean and Pea
Family)
Legumes capture
nitrogen from the air
and put it into the soil.
10

garden beds
#1
#2
Tomatoes, eggplants,
corn, capsicum, chillis,
cucumbers, pumpkins,
squash, melons.
Carrots, beetroot, parsnips,
potatoes, onions, leeks, radishes,
garlic, turnips.
#4 #3
Beans, peas.
Broccoli, brussels sprouts,
cabbage, cauliflower, kale,
lettuce, spinach, silverbeet.
TOP TIP
A garden bed can be a section of the
garden or a raised garden.
11

Microgreens
Often called ‘vegetable confetti’– microgreens
are a healthy, colourful and delicious alternative
to sprouts. Halfway in size between sprouts and
baby greens, they are usually harvested within
two weeks of sowing. They are commonly
grown in seedling or hydroponic trays and
differ from sprouts because they are harvested
above the seed with a pair of scissors when
there are two or more true leaves.
Microgreens add texture and colour to a dish
as a garnish, and vibrant colour when used
in a salad. Some exciting varieties include
amaranth, basil, chervil, coriander, garland
chrysanthemum and rocket. We also love the
seed packet range of microgreens from Mr
Fothergill’s, with exotic flavours from around the
world.
Grow microgreens in a seedling tray filled with
a thin layer of potting mix or hydroponically in a
specially designed microgreen growing tray.
Top
Tips
for Growing Microgreens
• Remember to keep the
seeds moist – if you use a
microgreen growing tray,
spray seeds with a fine mist of
water until the roots develop
in a few days. You can cover
your tray between waterings
to reduce evaporation.
• Feed the plants with a halfstrength
liquid fertiliser to
encourage rapid growth.
• Harvest just before serving
for maximum freshness
and flavour.
12
Nature’s Superfoods
Sprouts and microgreens are an easy way to add texture
and freshness to any dish. They are easy to grow, you
can harvest them year-round from the comfort of your
kitchen, and they are healthy and delicious.

Sprouts
Sprouting is possibly the most straightforward
form of growing fresh produce, and it also
provides speedy results with crops ready to
harvest in as little as four days. Often hailed
as one of nature’s super foods, sprouts are
highly nutritious and packed with enzymes and
powerful proteins.
Sprouts are effectively the first stage of
development in a plant’s life cycle. Tasty and
succulent, they make ideal additions to fresh
salads, sandwiches, and cooked meals such as
stir-fries.
Commonly, sprouts are grown hydroponically
(in water, without soil), so you can eat the entire
plant, root, seed and all – maximising the intake
of nutrients available.
Mr Fothergill’s Sprouts Alive seeds are food
grade and are guaranteed to grow, so try them
in a jar, bag or fuss free in the Mr Fothergill’s
Kitchen Seed Sprouter.
Growing your sprouts in a jar is super simple.
What you will need:
• Cheesecloth
• Rubber band
• Sprout seeds
• Preserving jar
• Storage container
with lid or food
storage bag
• Paper towel
1. Wash 1–2 tablespoons of the seeds and
place in a clean, sterilised jar. There will
still be a lot of space in your jar, but it will
expand. Don’t fill the seed any higher than
quarter of the jar.
2. Cover the seed with approximately 5 cm
of warm water. Cover the jar with the
cheesecloth and secure it with the rubber
band. Allow the jar to sit overnight.
3. The next day tip the jar upside down to
drain. You can use a fine mesh strainer if you
don’t have cheesecloth.
4. The following day, add new water to the
jar, swishing the seed around. Reapply the
cheesecloth and rubber band, and then
drain again.
5. Find an area out of direct sunlight and place
the jar upside down at an angle. This helps
with air circulation and the removal of excess
water. You can put the jar against a wall with
a towel underneath or in a bowl.
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 every day until your
sprouts are the desired size (approx. 3–7
days depending on the sprout variety).
7. To store, rinse the seeds one final time, and
then dry and store them in a covered bowl
for up to a week in the fridge. It’s a good
idea to put a paper towel in your container
to soak up any extra moisture when storing,
and this paper towel should be changed
every few days.
Top
Tips
for Growing Sprouts
• Rinse the seeds once a day.
• Do not overfill the container with
seed.
• Harvest within a week of sowing.
• Use only sprouting seeds that are
safe for consumption.
13

Growing Garlic
Growing garlic is easy, and with some
know-how, this can become one of
the many successful crops you can
grow this season. There are different
types of garlic, but the most common
in New Zealand is Printanor Garlic.
Elephant Garlic is an excellent option if
you do not like your garlic too strong,
as it has a milder flavour.
Traditionally garlic is planted on the
shortest day and harvested on the
longest; (plant late May to August and
harvest mid-January to late February).
By planting earlier and harvesting a
little later, your corms will become
larger. The best time to buy garlic is
April/May to ensure you do not miss
out.
Separate and plant each clove of
garlic 2-4cm below the soil surface
and about 10cm apart, ensuring the
pointed end is facing upwards. Use
the bigger cloves to assist with larger
bulbs. The smaller cloves will need
more care to grow, e.g. water and
nutrients. Keeping the growing area
weed free and well-watered during
the summer is essential.
To get the most out of your crop,
you need to incorporate the correct
nutrients at planting time.
Incorporate plenty of compost into
the soil, as well as bone flour and/or
blood & bone to boost calcium and
phosphorus, which is specifically good
for any bulb or root crop. Dig compost
and bone flour/blood & bone into the
root zone when planting, adding 1–2
teaspoons of the bone flour per clove.
Use only New Zealand-grown garlic
from your garden centre for the best
results.
If space is tight, garlic can also be
grown in containers or planter bags,
but it must have good drainage
wherever you grow them.
Once the tips of the leaves begin to
yellow, and the base of the stem goes
soft, it's time to harvest. Make sure
you dig up the garlic; do not rip it from
the ground. If you lift garlic too early,
you will have smaller cloves, whereas
if they are left too long, they will burst.
Once you have dug up your garlic,
gently brush off any soil clinging to
the bulbs, being careful not to gouge
them. Allow three to four weeks of
drying in a well-ventilated and dry
area out of direct sunlight. When the
tops and roots have dried, cut them
off, again being careful not to damage
the bulbs.
Seed Potato & Produce Suppliers
14

Safely Feed Your Feathered Friends
New Zealanders have reconnected with their local birdlife
in recent years. We’re taking greater notice of nature,
and feeding the birds is a popular way of nurturing it.
While it brings great delight, it’s our responsibility to keep
everything safe and sanitary. Our friends at Topflite give
us the inside info on how to feed your feathered friends
safely.
In the same way that we spring-clean our houses in
preparation for summer, bird feeders need a good
‘autumn clean’ before the arrival of hungry visitors in
winter.
As summer’s plentiful natural food sources dry up, birds
regularly visit gardens in search of food. Now’s a great
time to check the bird feeders and replenish food stocks.
It’s also an excellent opportunity to start as you mean
to go on, with regular feeder cleaning at least once a
week. This is because pathogens can thrive in a dirty
feeder, spreading diseases among birds. All that feeding,
hopping, and hanging about can leave feathers, dirt and
poop amongst the food – which is a perfect breeding
ground for nasties!
Here’s what to do….
Gear up
Have a dedicated brush that’s just for cleaning the feeder.
An old toothbrush is handy, as is a bottle brush for a nectar
feeder. Always wear rubber gloves when handling a dirty
feeder, as birdy bacteria is not great for humans either.
Empty the dregs
Leftover seed or fruit may be contaminated, so bury it
in the compost pile or somewhere away from the bird
feeding station.
Take it apart
Some bird feeders are made from multiple parts, while
others may not be easy to disassemble. If it’s easy to
separate, it’s easier to clean.
Soak, scrub & dry
Soak well in warm water. This removes any hardened
debris. Scrub thoroughly with a gentle dishwashing liquid
and ensure all old food and crusted dirt is dislodged. Rinse
well. Refill it with your local birds’ favourite NZ-made bird
feed when it is completely dry.
It also pays to remember:
• Use a feeder designed for safety and hygiene. A wide
base or numerous perching points on a feeder allow
birds to spread out as they feed.
• Offer nutritious bird feed. Bread is a no-no! For
introduced species like the yellowhammer or finch,
feed Topflite Wild Bird Seed. It’s grown in mineralrich
New Zealand soil and carefully balanced for
optimal nutrients. For nectar feeding birds, consider
Topflite Nectar which includes a blend of vitamins and
minerals.
• Feed birds in a seasonally appropriate manner.
Autumn and winter are when a little extra feed goes a
long way. Put out energy food, nectar, and fruit to help
native birds enter the spring breeding season in form
and seed to nourish the introduced species.
Nectar feeders need thorough and regular cleaning.
Sugar water or nectar sitting around for a few days can
ferment, causing dangerous bacteria to form.
Scan the QR code to see Topflite’s video guide for nectar
feeder cleaning, or visit bit.ly/nectarfeederclean
15

Composting
Made Easy
TIP
Keep Out: borage, meat
scraps, corn husks,
large branches, wet
grass, whole potatoes,
nasturtium or anything
that seeds readily.
16

Cold Composting
Cold composting, also known as passive
composting, is a method of composting
where organic material is piled up and left
to decompose on its own without the use of
added heat or active management. However,
it may take longer for the materials to
decompose than the hot composting method.
I use the method of cold composting at home because
it's a breeze. It requires little work to set up and
almost no maintenance or monitoring opposed to hot
composting, which requires some attention.
You would have heard the term green and brown waste
used a lot, and this is what is required for your compost
to thrive.
Green waste: is high in nitrogen, such as food scraps,
lawn clippings, egg shells, cooled ash and coffee
grounds.
Brown waste: is carbon-rich, such as leaf litter, torn
cardboard, dried-out paper bags, animal fur, crunchy
leaves and pea straw.
Higher proportions of brown waste will help keep the
cold compost from becoming too wet and promote
air circulation. So, aim for one third green waste and
three quarters brown waste, which will aid in the
decomposition process and prevent the pile from
becoming solid and smelly. However, if the compost
becomes too dry, you can add water.
Set-up
I have set mine up using a large slatted, wooden crate,
but you could use four pallets and place the unit directly
in part shade. I placed a 10 cm layer of pea straw at the
base and started layering my waste. I keep adding more
waste weekly, and I love watching the pile decompose
and decrease in size month by month. I also throw in a
few handfuls of garden lime and blood & bone twice a
month to help it decompose quicker. However, it is not
necessary.
Worm
Towers
If you don't have
the space for
cold composting,
try a Tui Worm Tower.
The Tui Worm Tower is an in-ground composting system
that allows you to recycle kitchen scraps into your
garden bed in an urban setting. Your existing garden
worms in the tower feed on the organic matter, breaking
it down into rich nutrients that can naturally fertilise your
plants. This is a great way to create healthy soil and
reduce waste in your kitchen.
The Tui Worm Tower is designed to be easy to assemble
and use. It can, hold up to 1,000 worms. You can place
multiple towers throughout your garden too! The worm
tower is designed to feed and attract your existing
earthworm population in your garden.
1. Choose a position for your Tui Worm Tower,
preferably in the middle of your garden bed.
2. Bury the worm tower into the soil, leaving the top
flared section exposed.
3. In the base of the worm tower, place a bedding of
premoistened strips of newspaper, leaf matter, straw
and compost.
4. If you find a clump of existing earthworms in your
garden, place them on to the bedding to speed up
the process. However, they will eventually find their
way into the tower and travel back and forth through
the feeding holes to deliver nutrients directly to the
roots.
5. Start layering your kitchen scraps into the tower. The
worms will process the matter quickly if diced small,
as opposed to a whole apple.
17

Lomandra
Lomandra is the modern carex, adding yearlong beauty to any easy care, no-fuss
space. They are one of our most popular plants for the garden and containers, and
it's simple to see why. Lomandra is low maintenance and aesthetically appealing for
dry to wet gardens, and once established, they still look great, even with outright
neglect. Native to Australia, once established, they are incredibly hardy in coastal
conditions and drought, with a lovely shape and a glossy, grassy texture.
Oderings
Exclusive
Pom Pom
Like Lime Tuff in its appearance, but
more compact in its growth with
mounds only 30 cm high and wide.
Perfect for borders on garden paths
and adding a splash of lush green.
Arctic Frost
With narrow, arctic blue-green
leaves, and contrasting white edges,
this plant is magnificent and great for
adding contrast. 1 m high x 1 m wide.
Lime Tuff
Compact growth with fine, lime-green
foliage that retains its colour throughout
the year. Produces small yellow flower
spikes in summer. 60 cm high x 60 cm
wide.
2L
POT
Evergreen Pot Easy Coastal Full Sun/ Drought Garden Pots &
Size Care
Part Shade Tolerant
Planters
Tanika
Extremely popular as a landscaping plant with darkgreen
fine foliage, accompanied by attractive yellow
flowers in early spring. 90 cm high x 90 cm wide.
18

Peperomia
Leaf
Cuttings
There are over 1500 species of different
Peperomia, which come in many shapes and sizes.
Because they all have unique characteristics,
they require different propagation techniques to
succeed. This method can be used to propagate
many different varieties of Peperomia and is
a good option for those who have already had
success with water cuttings.
Leaf Cutting:
Suitable for: Peperomia Caperata Burgundy, Grey and
Green. Also, Raindrop, Watermelon and Rosso.
• (1) To take a cutting from a plant, select a healthy leaf
and use a sharp blade or snips to cut it as close to the
main stem as possible. This will ensure that the petiole
(the stem attaching the leaf to the main stem) does
not rot off.
• (2) Next, slice the petiole, so there is 1 cm remaining.
• (3) Trim the leaf in half horizontally. Trimming the leaf
in half allows the plant to develop roots more quickly,
as it reduces the amount of energy the plant needs to
put into maintaining the leaf and can also prevent the
leaf from falling out of the soil.
• (4) Dip the petiole into Egmont IBAdex Powdered
Rooting Hormone.
• (5) Place the cuttings into the prehydrated soil (see
recipe on page 23), and press around cutting to
ensure it is secure. This form of cutting produces
multiple small leaves clustered around your original
leaf cutting and is a technique that can also be used
for African violets.
• (6) Once roots have formed, you will see multiple small
leaves around the original leaf cutting. Once it's big
enough, it can be transplanted into a 6 cm or 8 cm pot
using houseplant potting mix to form a new plant.
Tips
• Ensure the mother plant is healthy and free of pests
and disease before taking any cuttings.
• Water the plant 24 hours before taking cuttings and
have a cutting mix ready.
• Use a chopstick or skewer to make a hole in the soil
for the cutting, then insert the cutting and do not
water to avoid washing away the rooting hormone.
1
2
3
4
5
6
19

Bold Foliage
2
3
1
20

4
6
5
We have selected bold foliage for
winter with greys and white for the
cooler season, including the richness
of the Red Congo and brightness in
the foliage of the Golden Mosaic.
1. Sansevieria Moonshine
2. Philodendron Red Congo
3. Phlebodium Blue Star Fern
4. Ctenanthe Golden Mosaic
5. Scindapsus Pictus
6. Aphelandra Snowflake
21

Make the cut for
your houseplants
Most plants you've taken home from a garden
centre always start in a cutting mix specific to
their needs. Read on to become the propagation
pro so you can grow top-grade plants at home.
Most importantly, it is recommended to research
the plant's specific needs, such as its light and
moisture requirements, and select the correct
cutting mix suitable for that plant type.
Characteristics of a great cutting mix:
1. Adequate drainage to prevent waterlogging, root rot, and
mould growth.
2. Good aeration allows oxygen to reach the roots and promotes
healthy root development. A good mix may include peat
moss, pumice, and perlite in appropriate proportions.
3. Nutrient rich to support the growth of new roots and shoots.
4. Sterilisation of pots to prevent the growth of harmful
pathogens.
To take a cutting from a houseplant:
22
Tips
1. Choose a healthy, mature stem that is not flowering and has
2–4 leaves, depending on the plant variety.
2. Cut the stem at a 45-degree angle with a clean, sharp blade
just below a leaf node (the point where a leaf attaches to the
stem).
3. Cut the leaves in half on the lower half of the cutting to
reduce water loss and for quicker root development.
4. Dip the cut end of the stem into rooting hormone powder.
We love Egmont IBAdex.
5. Place the cutting into a pot with the cutting mixture you
selected.
6. Place your pots onto your heat pad. Place the pot in a bright
area away from direct sunlight.
7. Once roots have formed, and new growth appears, the
cutting can be potted into Oderings Houseplant Potting Mix
and moved into the next sized pot.

Easy Mix: Sphagnum Moss or Fern Fibre
Suitable for softwood cuttings such as Pothos,
Hoyas, Chain of Hearts and Fittonia.
If you're new to the propagation game and want to move
away from water cuttings, then start with an easy-cutting
mix, such as sphagnum moss or fern fibre.
Choose either sphagnum moss or fern fibre and
prehydrate the media in a bucket. Then place your
hydrated mix into the pots. Use a skewer to make a hole
in the centre of the media. Please note; rooting hormone
is not required with this method. After placing your
cuttings into the selected media, water with seaweed tonic
weekly as the sphagnum moss and fern fibre is not nutrient
dense. Always use a fresh bag of fern fibre, as when it breaks
down, it can become acidic, which cuttings don't always love.
This mix can be used in size 6–8 cm plastic pots.
Cheats' Cutting Mix: Seed Raising Mix & Perlite
Suitable for softwood, medium and hardwood
cuttings. Most houseplants love this mix.
This go-to cutting mix for customers is speedy and
effective for propagation. Use Oderings Seed Raising Mix
and Egmont Perlite at a 50:50 ratio.
Our seed-raising mix is full of peat, bark, and
micronutrients. The peat will keep your plant material
hydrated, while the roots will love to find their way through
the beautiful texture. This mix contains a gentle feed lasting
for a month. This mix can be used in Egmont Jiffy Pots or
plastic pots.
Pro Cutting Mix:
Suitable for semi-hardwoods such as Ficus
varieties
If you are doing a large amount of propagation, it's best to
make your own mix.
You will need Oderings Peat, fine-washed sand and
Egmont Fine Pumice, with an even ratio of each. Mix in a
bucket to combine and hydrate before planting. Rooting
hormone is recommended with this cutting mix to help
the hardwood root quicker. This mix contains no nutrients;
therefore, use a seaweed tonic every week after you have
inserted your cuttings into your mix. This mix can be used in
Egmont 12 cm Jiffy Pots or 10 cm plastic pots.
23

ODERINGS-GROWN
Colour
And
Foliage
Recent
Release
Phormium Purple Mountain
Phlox
One plant no sunny flowerbed or garden border should be
without. These phlox are both creeping/mounding types
and effective as ground covers or cascading over pots
and planters. Plant these phlox varieties at the front of
the border, in rock gardens, pots and planters or in a wild,
colourful cottage garden.
1. Emerald Blue – A prostate, mat-forming evergreen
alpine variety with needle-like green leaves. Flowers are
lavender-blue and appear mainly in spring and summer.
2. Pink Picotee – An evergreen alpine type with a low,
trailing habit, and distinguishable pink flowers brushed
with white edging.
20cm
20cm 1.3L
A beautiful and easy-care plant with graceful, drooping, long
purple-brown-coloured sword-shaped leaves. A great texture
and contrast in pots and landscaping projects. Native birds
and bees love the long flower spikes.
1.5m
1.5m 2L
Agapanthus Rachel
A miniature, vigorous grower with deep green foliage
and dense, blue-mauve striped blooms held neatly
above the foliage. Great in the garden or pots, with
low fertility so it won’t set seed everywhere like the
agapanthus of old.
50cm
50cm
2L
NEW
Oderings
Exclusive
Recent
Release
1
2
24

Recent
Release
Helleborus Petticoat
Double White
Ligularia
Reniformis
Heuchera
Sweet Tart
Known as the winter rose, this evergreen
perennial has beautiful double green-white
flowers, which turn pure white in late
winter to early spring, with double petals.
This stunning variety works as a cut flower
or floated in a bowl as a table decoration.
40cm
This is a highly fashionable plant
which will enhance your garden with
the appealing glossy-green, huge,
kidney-shaped leaves. Referred to as
the tractor seat ligularia, due to the
distinctive leaf shape, it is hardy and
easy to grow.
Sweet Tart is from the Little Cuties
series. Although small in stature, the
tangy, lime-coloured foliage with
fantastic bicoloured cerise and hot pinkcoloured
flowers held on dark stems in
wand-like clusters in spring, summer,
and autumn is a total standout.
50-
60cm 1L 80cm 2.5L
80cm
20cm
13cm 1L
KEY
Bird & Bee
attracting
Width Pot Part Height Frost Coastal Gardens Full Sun Drought Garden Pots & Full Sun/ Groundcover
Size Shade Hardy
Tolerant
Planters Part Shade
Cut
Flower
Part Shade/
Shade
Cascading
loves
your
garden
ph: 0800 220 002
info@grosafe.co.nz
www.grosafe.co.nz
BioNeem®, GroVentive®, EnSpray 99® and OceanFert®
are registered trademarks of Grosafe Chemicals.
25

Bioshield Grass
Grub Control
Lawns with dead patches are a telltale sign of a grass
grub infestation. Grass grub larvae eat plant roots
which cause damage to grass and other plants.
To know if you have a grass grub problem, check
your soil by digging a hole in the suspect areas and
look for the larvae. Larvae are visible in autumn in
all regions (February – April) and colder regions in
spring. Keep an eye out for adult beetle flights in
October and November when they are attracted to
outside lights.
BioShield Lawn Care is a biopesticide developed
to reduce New Zealand grass grub (Costelytra
zealandica) larvae populations to prevent the damage
they do in lawns and gardens.
Initially developed by AgResearch, BioShield is
manufactured and supplied by the New Zealand
biological company, BioStart. The active ingredient
in BioShield is a naturally-occurring soil bacterium
(Serratia entomophila) which causes amber disease in
grass grub larvae.
The grass grub larvae eat the bacteria as they feed,
and the bacteria then multiply in their gut, causing
amber disease. Within two to three days, the larvae
stop feeding, and when they die, the bacteria in their
gut are released into the soil, where they are then
available to be eaten by other grass grub larvae. This
sets up a cycle of infection for grass grub control.
The product has been carefully developed to be
certified organic, have no withholding period, and it
does not affect any other insects or animals.
“As with all biopesticides and biostimulants, the time
you apply the product and other conditions matter for
the best results. Apply BioShield in autumn (or early
spring in cooler regions) when the grass grub larvae
are most susceptible to BioShield and actively feeding
on plant roots. The soil should be warm (> ten °C) and
moist. Don’t apply BioShield in bright sunlight, and you
need to water your lawn and garden for 15 minutes
after applying the product to wash the bacteria into
the soil,” explains BioStart CEO Dr Jerome Demmer.
Jerome also stresses that gardeners should not
use other grass grub control measures, such as
insecticides and Bioshield, because these reduce
efficacy.
Grass Grub control timeline:
Six weeks – approximately 10–20
percent of grass grub show signs of
amber disease.
One year – the grass grub larvae
population should be halved from the
time of application. Dead grass grub
larvae will not be visible as they decay
quickly.
26

Rejuvenate Your Lawn With Tui
After a mixed bag of weather this summer,
the lawn will need a little TLC, and autumn is
the perfect time for lawn renovations, including
resowing and removing pesky broadleaf
weeds that have established over the summer
months.
Professional turf specialists use the Tui
LawnForce All Purpose slow release fertiliser
range on sports ovals, stadiums, golf courses
and cricket pitches throughout New Zealand.
This technology is now available to the home
gardener and lawn enthusiast. Delivering
superior results, LawnForce fertilisers
encourage uniform growth and improve grass
density by crowding out unwanted broadleaf
weeds for a lush green lawn. The unique
way Tui LawnForce fertilisers work helps to
improve resilience to disease, better tolerate
temperature extremes throughout the season
and withstand wear; lawns bounce back
quickly after application.
Tui LawnForce fertilisers work by stimulating
soil microbial activity. Temperature and soil
microbes trigger nutrient release, and fertiliser
is delivered on demand when the grass is
actively growing. The fertilisers come as
an easy-to-use dust-free prill with low burn
potential. The best application method for an
even spread is using a LawnForce hand-held or
drop spreader.
Discover the Range
LawnForce All Purpose
encourage thick grass growth
and strong root development
for improved resilience to
disease and temperature
extremes. Suitable for all
lawn types, this slow-release
fertiliser delivers 12 weeks
of continuous feeding and is
best applied to a dry lawn in
spring and summer to actively
growing lawns. For newly sown
lawns, apply once lawns have
been established for 12 weeks.
Water in well after application.
LawnForce New Lawns
is perfect for rejuvenating
tired lawns and can be safely
applied to all lawn types,
including newly sown. The
low nitrogen level helps to
prevent diseases caused by
high nitrogen at germination.
Boosted with calcium to
condition the soil and stimulate
root growth, it is best applied to
a dry lawn in spring, summer
and autumn. Feeds lawns
continuously for 12 weeks.
Water in well after application.
LawnForce Weedkill
combines 2-in-1 fertiliser and
lawn weed application. The
selective herbicide controls
common weeds such as dock,
clover, creeping oxalis and
dandelion while not harming
the lawn. It contains a slowrelease
fertiliser to encourage
strong, healthy grass growth
and prevent unwanted
broadleaf weeds' reinvasion.
Feeds for up to 12 weeks. Apply
to a damp, actively growing
lawn in spring and autumn.
27

Who knew there were so many types of
lawn seed? And many of us may wonder
why it matters what type of lawn seed
we use, but it honestly does. I often ask
customers how much maintenance they
can put into their lawns. And be honest;
there is no point in planting a top-notch
lawn seed if you don't have the time to
keep it looking good. You can still get a
beautiful lawn; we will use some tricks of
the trade to get you the best lawn for your
environment and lifestyle.
There are three types of lawns: easy care, lifestyle
and retirement lawns.
Easy care – Self-explanatory. They require little
care for the grass to thrive. It is harder wearing with
a thicker blade of grass, making it ideal for heavy
traffic areas, kids' playgrounds, and an all-around
rough-and-tumble lawn. If this sounds like you,
the seed to pick is Oderings Hard Wearing or Tui
LawnForce All Seasons or Tui LawnForce Superstrike
Easycare.
Lifestyle – A bit of a step up from the easy care,
using a quality blend of seeds. This lawn is also
low maintenance but has a mid-thickness blade of
grass into which weeds can more easily creep if
not maintained. Regular mowing and the odd weed
spray are needed, but nothing considered high
maintenance or abnormal for taking care of a lawn.
If you need to patch an existing lawn and are unsure
what your current lawn is, this is the ideal seed. If
this sounds like you, the seed to pick is the Oderings
Special Blend or Tui All Seasons
Retirement Lawn – If you have a lot of time on
your hands and take huge pride in your lawn, this is
the one for you. The blades of grass are super fine,
meaning weeds can quickly establish. Thatch can
also become a problem as the blades grow so close
together the thatch can easily establish (see how to
treat thatch on page 30). I wish I had a retirement
lawn, as they often feel like walking on air and look
sublime. Regular mowing, spraying and dethatching
are needed. However, because the weeds are often
spindly from not getting established, they can often
be pulled by hand. If you are the ultimate lawnscaper,
then use Oderings Special Blend Grass Seed.
Lawns
Sow a new lawn or
rejuvenate patches?
28

PREP
The best advice is to do it right the first time. Growing a new
lawn requires careful preparation and hours of dedicated
work. Your time and effort will reward you with a healthy lawn
that will delight the eye for many years.
SPRAY
Spray the area twice using non-selective (kills everything)
weedkillers, such as Round Up or Weed Weapon Rapid. As the
area starts to die, cultivate the soil to 8 cm with a rotary hoe or
garden fork, adding fresh screened topsoil as you go.
LEVEL
This is where the real work begins and needs to be done
correctly! Level out cultivated soil with a rake. Find any soft
spots by "heeling in" (taking small steps on your heel), or use
a roller to go over the top and compress the soil. When you
are satisfied that the area is level, compacted, and all holes are
filled, rake the soil surface so that the grass seed can set root.
SOW
Select a seed according to the situation. If unsure, your
Oderings staff will be able to advise you. Most grass seed
is coated, providing fertiliser in the young seed's immediate
vicinity, enabling it to take up nutrients as soon as the seed
has germinated. The coated seed also protects from fungal
disease and bird theft during establishment. Sow seed at the
rate of 30 grams per meter/sq. For best coverage, sow the
lawn with half the seed in a north to south direction and then
with the remaining half east to west. Rake the surface lightly
to cover the seed. There are some fertilisers you can use with
new lawns. See page 27 for more details.
WATER
Ensure your lawn seed does not dry out. Water twice daily
with a fine mist until fully established.
MOW
When your lawn is 5–6 cm (2–3") high, mow lightly, removing
no more than one third of the height each time.
MAINTENANCE
After mowing 3–4 times, a light application of Oderings Lawn
Replenish will encourage lush, thick growth in your lawn.
Once established, feeding should be done two times a year, in
spring and autumn, with a third application in early summer if
needed.
REPAIR
Pick your grass seed to match your current lawn. Rake out
any old dead patches of lawn and break up the underlying
soil as you go. Apply Tui LawnForce Lawn Preparation Mix or
quality screened lawn soil over the patch to 25–30 mm depth.
Firm down this soil by stamping on it or using the head of the
rake. Sow the new grass seed. Water the seed well, and don't
let it dry out or get frosted during germination.
Good luck with your new lawn, and remember that
preparation and care are the key to a luscious, healthy lawn.
29

Keeping your lawn
healthy in autumn
30
Early autumn is the best time to get your
lawn healthy, weed free, and looking great.
Many weeds will continue to grow through the
cooler months, and dealing with them now will
save you a lot of work in spring. Kiwicare has a
range of specialist lawn products designed to
make life easier and help you get a lawn that
makes others green with envy.
Dethatch your lawn with ease
Thatch is the dense spongy layer at the base of your
lawn made up of tightly interwoven or compacted
stems, leaves and roots. Lawns with high levels of
thatch (2 cm or more) can create an environment
where disease and insects thrive.
Kiwicare’s LawnPro D-Thatch is quick and easy to
use. It organically breaks down thatch, stimulates
beneficial soil microbes and improves soil and grass
health. It’s made for New Zealand lawn conditions,
safe for pets and a great alternative to manual
scarifying.
Controlling broadleaf weeds
LawnPro Turfclean Ultra is a fast-acting weed
killer that kills broadleaf weeds in lawns, including;
dandelion, clover, hydrocotyle, Onehunga, selfheal,
speedwell, oxalis, daisies, dock, plantain and more.
You can expect to see the effects in just two days!
It’s a good option for maintaining lawns and treating
weeds that are getting out of control. Better yet, it
acts as a preventative, so it continues to suppress the
growth of weeds and moss for an extended period.
Dealing with Onehunga (prickle) weed
LawnPro Prickle and Hydrocotyle is the best option
for lawns prone to Onehunga weed. Applying
it to your lawn before the weed flowers and
produces prickly seeds will help prevent Onehunga
weeds from getting out of control and becoming
more challenging to eradicate. LawnPro Prickle
and Hydrocotyle kill existing Onehunga, thistles,
hydrocotyle, clovers, creeping oxalis and other
broadleaf weeds, including dandelions, daisies, clover,
chickweed, dock, plantain, speedwell and others. It
also helps suppress the regrowth of moss, weeds,
and Kikuyu grass.
General Tips & Advice
Weeds: To get the best results use LawnPro
Turfclean Ultra regularly, alternating it with LawnPro
Prickle and Hydrocotyle every third or fourth
treatment. This is a great preventative tactic to
stop prickle weeds and hydrocotyle from getting a
foothold in your lawn.
Mowing: In later autumn raise your mower height
a notch or two and keep your lawn a little longer
through the cooler months.
Light Levels: Lawns need light, especially in winter,
so trim any trees that are casting too much shade.
Follow the steps in this article, and your lawn will be
in top condition by the time summer rolls around.
For more advice on how to care for your lawn, visit
Kiwicare.co.nz or download the MyKiwicare app
on Google Play or the App Store

X-It Ant
We all know someone dealing with an increase
in ant activity in their home or garden. There are
39 species of ant in New Zealand, and only 11 are
considered endemic; 17 species originate from
Australia. Almost all the complaints about ants are
centred around exotic species.
Ants will adapt and live inside and outdoors
as the weather and temperature dictate, and
they can survive the harshest conditions. Our
aversion to ants is directly related to their social
impact and how it affects our living or working
environment. Examples include the Argentine
ants overwhelming the outdoor barbeque and
our kitchens being invaded by black house ants
or several other species.
Ants can carry disease and feed on dead and
decaying animals and insects for their protein.
E.coli, Shigella, and Salmonella can be transported
on their feet over food and preparation areas.
With highly structured colonies of queen(s),
workers and males, they feed on both sugary
substances and protein and will travel some
distance to access both for survival if food is not
nearby.
We tend to tolerate small numbers of ants, but
once they reach an unacceptable level, the X-It
Ant range can help.
There are three key products in the treatment of
ants.
A programme using highly palatable bait like
NoPests® Ant Bait will be very effective if ants
are indoors, in garden sheds and garages. Apply
your bait to the indoor highways where ants trail
in thin 5cm strips for maximum effectiveness.
For outdoors, we recommend NoPests®
X-it Ant spray, a non-repellent, long-lasting
insecticide specifically designed for New
Zealand’s outdoor conditions. NoPests® X-it
Ant is effective for several months against all
ant species, including the Argentine ant and all
major pest species of ants found in New Zealand.
X-it Ant is also very effective against other
crawling insect pests, such as cockroaches and
spiders and has been designed to withstand rain,
irrigation, UV light, and pH variations. As well as
this, it is non-repellent, which is crucial for its initial
impact and long-lasting effect. X-it Ant should be
used on hard surfaces (including the trunks of
trees) where they will walk across the X-It Ant,
poisoning themselves and any other ant they
come in contact with.
NoPests® Sand4Ants is used on soft areas
where ants are below a substrate, e.g. compost,
bark gardens, long grass areas or lawns. If you
believe you have located the nest spread the Ant
Sand over the area to destroy the nest
Pop into Oderings to see our X-It Ant range and
get expert advice on eradicating ants in your
home, inside and out.
31

A common complaint from gardeners
is 'my plants didn't perform' or 'I can't
grow tomatoes'. The reason for this
is mainly due to the soil. Plants need
nutrients to grow and quality soil to
supply these nutrients. When planting
into pots, containers or raised beds,
this becomes particularly important
because the roots can't go out and
source more nutrients as there is
nowhere to go.
Technically we refer to soil as media, which is
a carrier for plants to inhabit. Media comes in
primarily two forms.
Soil media – includes clay, peat, loam silt, sand
and humus (organic matter)
Soilless media – includes peat (sand), composted
bark (vermicide), sawdust (Perlite) and coir fibre
(pumice)
For growing in our nursery, we use soilless
media with a mixture of peat, composted bark
and coir fibre, primarily because these products
are sterile, light, and free from pathogens such
as fungi and bacteria. However, soilless mixes,
like the potting mixes and composts customers
purchase instore, need to be used from the
bag within two months of bagging to avoid the
Legionnaires’ disease bacteria from cultivating in
the warm, closed environment that the bag and
storage encourages. That's whys it's important
to use the whole bag after purchase. The
other reason is that media will heat up, and the
fertilisers incorporated in the mix release with
moisture.
For over 20 years, Julian Odering has perfected
our soilless media recipes into the four main
mixes we use in the nursery and sell in our retail
stores.
Oderings Soil Selection
Oderings Bagged Potting Mixes
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The bases of all the Oderings potting mixes are
comprised of the same nutrients, including macro
and micronutrients. These nutrients are supplied by
both Nutricote and Triabon and help the uptake of
macronutrients through the plant. These nutrients
are:
Macronutrients are nutrients used in large
numbers by the plant and include N – Nitrogen,
P – Phosphorus, K – Potassium, Ca – Calcium, S –
Sulphur and Mg – Magnesium
TE or micronutrients are used by plants in small
amounts and include Boron, Zinc, Iron, Molybdenum,
Copper and Manganese.
The other things our mixes include are:
• Penetrate is essential for soilless media and is a
wetting agent which helps facilitate even watering
through the bark.
• Gypsum is incorporated to aid calcium as lime
does but does not affect the pH. Calcium is
essential for strengthening the cell walls of plants.
Notes
Triabon is a quick-release
fertiliser that gives plants a quick
boost of essential nutrients. The
fertiliser comprises large and
small water-soluble particles, delivering
nutrients directly to the plant's roots. This
type of fertiliser is often used to provide a
quick fix for plants that require some extra
nutrients
Nutricote is a controlled fertiliser that
releases essential nutrients to plants
over a specific period. The release rate is
influenced by temperature, with the release
slowing down at temperatures under 20°C
and speeding up at temperatures above
20°C. This type of fertiliser provides a
gradual and sustained supply of nutrients,
helping to promote healthy plant growth
and development.

Shrub & Tub
A well-balanced, high-quality mix suited to meet the
growing requirements of most trees and shrubs.
Use: all outdoor planting situations, patio containers,
tubs and raised garden beds. It can be mixed half
and half with garden soil when planting shrubs to
aid water retention. Our best high-quality, versatile
potting mix.
The bark in the Shrub & Tub mix contains natural
fungi called Trichoderma, a beneficial fungus that
attacks harmful fungi, thus providing the plants with
favourable growing conditions. Because the bark
is acidic, we use dolomite and agricultural lime to
bring the pH to an acceptable limit for most trees
and shrubs.
• pH adjusted to 5.8
• 100 percent mixture of coarse and fine bark
• 8-month Nutricote
• 3-month Triabon
Potting & Basket
Use: in containers, baskets, raised beds, and planter
boxes. Ideal for strawberries, peppers, herbs,
houseplants, perennials, patio plants and other
plants requiring water retention, such as bulb crops.
• pH adjusted to 6.1
• 17 percent peat – to aid water retention
• 75 percent medium bark
• 8 percent coarse bark
• 5–6-month Nutricote
• 3-month Triabon
Fruit & Veggie
Use: in all raised garden beds, with all veggies,
raspberries, and fast-growing annual plants. It is
also a good soil conditioner.
• pH adjusted to 6.2
• 50 percent Garden Gro
• 17 percent coarse bark
• 33 percent medium Bark
• 5–6-month Nutricote
• 3-month Triabon
Seed Raising
Use: for plug trays and seedling trays when
sowing seeds. The high percentage of peat means
this mixture retains water which is essential for
the propagation of seedlings and cuttings. For
houseplant cuttings, 5 percent perlite should be
added to aid drainage.
• pH adjusted to 6.1
• 45 percent screened peat
• 55 percent screened fine bark
• 4-month Nutricote microfertiliser
Compost
Compost is not a potting mix and should only be
considered as a soil conditioner. It does not have
additional fertilisers (macro or micronutrients)
added as the potting mixes do, and it is made from
rotted organic matter.
Use: as a soil conditioner to add air-filled porosity
and water-holding capacity to poor clay loam silty
soil-based media. Nutrient value one month only.
Not to be used as a quality potting mix.
• pH 6.8
• rotted sawdust
• pig manure
• organic material
33

Soil
The
Foundation of
any Good Garden
I have cringe-worthy moments when
I'm out and about (not at Oderings)
and see shoppers purchasing cheap
soil. People invest precious time, effort
and resources when planting a great
flower, veggie, or ornamental garden,
but before you plant anything, the
most crucial investment should be in
the soil. The soil helps give any plant
nutrient and water requirements,
thus contributing to its overall vigour.
Healthy garden soil improves your
plants' health, and healthy plants are
less likely to get pests or diseases.
So, where to start?
Compost - Every good garden needs life, and one of
the easiest ways to do this is to incorporate compost. Using
compost improves the soil structure, texture, and aeration
and increases the soil's water-holding capacity. The organic
matter in compost provides food for microorganisms,
keeping the soil healthy and balanced. Ideal for veggie
gardens, incorporated with other soil media when planting
new plants, or to top up the garden.
Mulch - Organic mulches are ideal as they break down
over time and add more organic matter to your soil. Use
mulch to reduce moisture loss, protect the ground from
exposure to the elements, and reduce weed growth.
34
Natural soil replenishment - Green
crops are grown and then dug back into the soil as a
natural soil replenishment; they can work even better
than manufactured fertilisers. This is a natural method
of soil maintenance that will boost and replace nutrients
and encourage earthworms and other microorganisms.
There are many different types of green crops available,
and each does a different job, so come and grab our free
gardening guide to learn more.

Use soil improvers - When used regularly,
they will help raise the soil's organic matter content,
improving soil health and bringing your soil to life.
Many of these soil improvers help release trapped
nutrients, which helps to encourage earthworms.
Earthworms help break down organic matter into
nutrients and minerals that plants can use, providing
more natural fertilisers for your garden. Some of the
natural organic soil improvers we recommend are:
Tui Organic Sheep Pellets (1) – the perfect partner
for your plants. Containing all-natural pelletised NZ
sheep manure, it adds organic matter to improve soil
structure and encourage earthworms.
Tui Chicken & Sheep Pellets (2) – formulated with
a blend of essential nutrients, this all-purpose pellet
adds organic matter to improve soil structure and
nourish your plants.
Ocean Grow Liquid Fertiliser (3) – is made of fresh
fish minced and inoculated with a blend of cultures
and vitamins. Highly effective all-purpose fish fertiliser
to promote strong and healthy plants.
Magic Botanic Liquid (4) – also known as MBL. This
is a growth booster for plants, creating a much bigger
root system and promoting strong and healthy plants.
A must for veggies, fruit crops, roses, tomatoes and
flowering annuals.
Mycorrcin Plus (5) – promotes beneficial microbes
to assist in composting organic matter to humus.
Improves calcium uptake, stimulates root growth and
is said to increase strawberry production by 200-
400%.
Gypsum (6) – provides a steady source of calcium
without affecting the soil pH. Improves plant health,
growth and repair rates and disease resistance. The
calcium component of gypsum encourages soil clay
particles to group together, thereby improving soil
structure.
Yates Thrive Naturals (7) – For strong healthy
growth, vibrant blooms, and greener foliage feed
regularly with Thrive Naturals. There is a great
selection in this range to cover all your feeding needs.
1
3
4
6
7
2
5
35

Selecting the right hedge is very important. Here are
a few guidelines to help you decide:
• Decide on the effect you are after, e.g., a smaller
decorative hedge or a more substantial screen
for shelter and privacy.
• The overall height you want your hedge to reach.
• Is the hedge going to get sun or shade, and what
type of climate do you have, e.g., frosts or seaside
conditions?
• Consider the type of soil and the drainage.
• How quickly or slowly will it grow, and how much
trimming will it need?
• How much space can you allocate for the hedge
to mature – especially if other plants are in front
of or behind the hedge?
HEDGING
Are you looking to grow a garden border
or a formal hedge along your driveway or
fences? There are no rules to what you
can create with hedges. You can add lines,
shapes, texture, foliage colour, flower colour
or both, creating structure or intricate
design; the choice is yours.
Soil preparation
Before planting your hedge, remember the plants will be
closer together than they would if they were planted in a
typical garden setting. Therefore, it will be a feeding frenzy
for the competing roots to get the essential nutrients. Make
sure your soil is well nourished. Even if your soil is of good
quality, do not be afraid to dig in some well-rotted manure or
compost before planting. Add plenty of slow-release fertiliser,
such as Oderings Garden Replenish, twice a year in spring
and autumn.
Irrigation
Although some hedges are drought tolerant, they must
receive enough water, especially when they are getting
established. I would recommend drippers rather than
overhead sprinklers; they are more efficient in not competing
with other plants that might otherwise block the water, while
drippers sit directly underneath the hedge.
Planting
When planting, use a string line to help keep your line
straight. To avoid transplanting shock, it is also a great idea
to soak plants in a seaweed fertiliser before planting. If your
plants are not all the same size, make sure that all the taller
ones are not planted together. Try to alternate the smaller
ones with the tall ones, then cut them to the same level.
Once planted, water your plants well.
Pruning
KEY
Your hedges can be trimmed any time of the year, but
ideally in late spring and/or mid to late autumn. If you live in
an extremely cold area, prune no later than mid-summer.
If you want a hedge to mature at 2 metres, choose a shrub
that will grow to 2.5–3.5 metres unpruned. Do not let your
hedge get beyond its mature height. If this happens, you
might find that it will have few to no leaves when you prune
back to the size you originally wanted the hedge.
Full Sun/
Part
Shade
Frost
Hardy
Pot
Size
Pots &
Planters
Easy
Care
Well-Drained
Soil
Evergreen Gardens
NZ Native
Coastal
Trim to
Height
Space
Apart
Frost
Sensitive
36

Our top three hedge choices
Eucalyptus Baby Blue
This little tree has striking powdery
silvery-blue foliage. It is excellent as
a dwarf evergreen screen, as cut
foliage for flower arrangements or as a
background in large pots and planters in
the garden. A traditional choice for the
small, urban garden, this steady grower
should be trimmed to approx. 2 m for
a bushy and multi-trunked look. If left
untrimmed, this plant would grow to 4 m,
but it should be kept trimmed to 2 m to
stop the leaf from reverting.
2L
2m
1-1.5m
Griselinia Canterbury
This evergreen shrub is known for its
red stems and smaller lush green leaves.
It’s very hardy and thrives well all sites
including coastal and sea salt, is low
maintenance and an excellent hedge
or windbreaker in exposed areas. It can
grow to 5 m, but when trimmed, has an
ideal height of 2–2.5 m.
4L
75cm-1m
2.5m
Viburnum Dense Fence
Dense Fence is the king of hedges and
is highly suited for a privacy screen and
filling a space quickly with less pruning.
Finer leaves, higher density, shorter
internodes, fragrant white flowers, and
new reddish growth set Dense Fence
apart. If left untrimmed, it can reach 3.5 m,
but the ideal height is 2–2.5 m. Will tolerate
light frosts once established.
2L
2.5m 75cm-1m
Express your vision with precision.
Easy to use, effective and durable secateurs for creative gardeners.
GARDENA.com
37

Perennials
DIVIDE & CONQUER
As the garden rests and recovers from the growing
period of spring and summer, autumn and winter
are the perfect time to catch up with perennial care,
maintenance and propagation. Follow these tips to
ensure you have beautiful perennials in spring and
summer.
PERENNIAL
DEFINITION
a perennial is a shrub that lives for
more than two years and typically
flowers in spring and summer.
Although many evergreens are also
classed as perennials, perennials often
head into dormancy in autumn and
winter and then bounce back when
the weather starts warming up.
38

We love perennials because they have some
of the most unique flowers and are suitable for
background, cottage gardens and mass plantings.
CLEANING UP: removing foliage creates a tidy
look in your landscape. A good time to do this is
when perennials are heading into dormancy. Snip
off any leftover growth, ensuring you leave 5 cm of
the plant’s stem. This allowance is for two reasons:
• If cut too low, water can sit in the crown of the
plant causing rotting and potential death, and
• Some perennials’ buds are on stems that sit
above the soil line; trimming back too low can
prevent sufficient bud growth.
Also, if you suspect your plants have any diseases,
cutting back in the cooler months may be
something to consider as it lessens the plant’s
risk of disease carrying over to the next growing
season.
MULCH: plants love being tucked in for winter
because they like a consistent soil temperature;
mulch achieves this, reducing stress on the plant
and helping to suppress weeds. Do not cover the
plant’s crown in mulch as this may cause rotting.
Tui Mulch & Feed, pea straw and bark mulch are all
great examples of mulching materials.
WATERING: don’t forget to water. If you don’t
have much rainfall or your perennials are tucked
under a tree, remember you need to provide a
generous drink at least once a month.
DIVIDING PERENNIALS: perennials have
clumping habits and widen once planted in the
garden. If you notice your plant stops growing, is
browning off in the centre or collapsing centrally
then it's time to split and divide. This essentially
creates more individual plants that can be
transplanted elsewhere. Perennials can be divided
at any time of the year, but cooler conditions allow
the roots to settle after division and focus on the
production of more roots ready for the hot months
ahead. Pay close attention to the root types when
dividing your perennials to get the most from your
plants. Depending on the type of plant and its root
type, ensure you have the correct tools. A hand
fork or a sharp knife is always handy for the more
delicate plants. For the larger perennials, spades,
handsaws and secateurs are good options.
TRANSPLANTING: the first step is lifting the
plant. How you lift depends on the size of the
plant. Use a trowel or spade to dig around the
plant. Use the drip line of the plant as a guide to
ensure the essential roots are transplanted (the
drip line is basically the width of the plant). If
planting directly back into the garden, make sure
you work compost into the hole and incorporate
Oderings Garden Replenish. If planting into pots
use Oderings Potting & Basket Mix, which contains
the appropriate slow and fast feeding fertilisers
needed. Keep watered so roots can develop. Keep
repotted plants in a glass house or propagation
house for rapid growth.
Root types
OFFSETS: small plants growing at the base of a larger
one. These can be removed with a trowel in sections or
by hand. Ensure when collecting that the new offsets
have enough roots. E.g. echinacea, agapanthus, lamb’s
ear and hostas.
SURFACE ROOTS: sit just under the surface of the soil,
and new plants grow from these. Simply dig between
the mother plant and the new plant to get a division with
roots. E.g. sedum, veronica, ajuga, violas, groundcover
campanulas.
TAPROOTS: are usually the largest, central root on the
plant. You can form smaller plants by using a sharp
knife to slice down the length of the root. Make sure you
have side shoots, eyes and some of the main tap root.
E.g. euphorbia, platycodon and dicentra.
UNDERGROUND RUNNING ROOTS: the mother plant
forms suckers under the surface so you can dig a
section out, leaving the mother plant undisturbed. E.g.
anemone, geraniums.
WOODY ROOTS: are formed when the stem of the
mother plant are slightly buried with mulch or rest on
the ground. By cutting between the rooted stem and the
mother plant, you can get a division. E.g. iberis, lavender,
penstemons, buxus and thyme.
39

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the garden experts
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