Ribbon of Wilderness by Peter Wright sampler

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Ribbons of Wildness_2016_Layout 1 24/05/2016 19:26 Page 42 ribbon of wildness waters of the Ettrick and then the Moffat Waters, and onto one of the higher tops in the area, Hart Fell. From there it runs across the head of the Devil’s Beeftub and onto Clyde Law where the start of both the Tweed and Clyde Rivers are but a few kilometres apart. Thus far its journey has been largely westward, but here it swings sharply north along more of these ‘rolling hills’, by Gathersnow Hill and Culter Fell, and finishes at the dramatic Southern Upland Fault. On Gawky Hill the land falls away steeply to the northwest; it is almost like standing on a high shoreline looking across a broad expanse of rippling loch, in hues of brown and green. The Laich March Laich or low is a very Scottish word which aptly describes much of this, the second section, running for some 175km from the Southern Upland Fault line on Gawky Hill to the Highland Boundary Fault line on Guilan, to the east of Loch Lomond. The average elevation of the Laich March is 280m, which is about half that of the Reiver March. As the line meanders across this lower area, often referred to as the Central Belt, it appears to make a dash from hilltop to outcrop, almost avoiding the flatter and more fertile land on either side. It also seems to weave round and past nearly all of the settle - ments that are seemingly in the way. But of course the reality is the other way round, as the settlements generally developed off the highest ground. There is only the one exception to this: Cumbernauld. From the evocatively named Gawky Hill, the line crosses to Shaw Hill, skirts Coulter, and rises to Biggar Common, Black Mount, and then touches the south Pentlands at Craigengar. Leven Seat and Black Law are followed by Kirk o’ Shotts transmitter and the m8 crossing, with Black Loch and Limerigg moors coming before the urban expanse of Cumbernauld with all its trees. The Campsie Fells present another S shaped sweep as the Carron and Endrick Waters appear to push the Watershed west, east, and then back to the west again, where, at Stronend, which stands out like the bow of a great ship, it drops steeply to Balglair Muir. A final sweep past Balfron 42
Ribbons of Wildness_2016_Layout 1 24/05/2016 19:26 Page 43 introduction to Moor Park then brings it to a steep ascent of the fault line and onto Guilan. The Heartland March In the third March, the Watershed ventures into what is often regarded as the ‘heartland of Scotland’, with a great sweep eastwards into Badenoch. At an average elevation of 610m, it is the highest of the Marches, and at 240km, it is the second longest. It starts by heading north over Ben Lomond to Beinn a Chroin, past Crianlarich and on to Ben Lui. Dropping down past the old mines to pass Tyndrum and almost as far as Loch Lyon before ascending to Beinn Achaladair, it crosses the railway at the head of the Water of Tulla. A majestic circumnavigation of Rannoch Moor follows with the heights above it at Black Mount, before crossing to A Chruach. Swinging back across the railway at the snow tunnel between Rannoch and Corrour stations it progresses northeast via Ben Alder to Feagour near the head of Loch Laggan. Running west - wards again, it crosses Carn Liath, and is briefly overshadowed by Creag Meagaidh before slipping between the sources of the River Spey on the one hand and the Roy on the other. And the final stretch looks down benignly on the Corrieyairack Pass before dropping steeply through the forest into the Great Glen at Laggan. The Moine March For mountaineers and those who love remoteness, this March has everything to offer. The 330km stretch reaches an average elevation of 595m, and much of it runs in close parallel to the line of the Moine Thrust. This is a geological feature, a fault line running close to much of the north-west coast, which has had a major impact upon the landscape of that part of Scotland. The steep climb out of the great trench that the Great Glen Fault created is rewarded with fine views up Loch Ness, and down towards Ben Nevis. From Ben Tee the Watershed then makes a 43
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Ribbon of Wilderness by Peter Wright sampler

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