APJ Vol 54 2023

Leaders in Education
AUTUMN
Volume 54
2023
Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of
the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PTY LTD.
AESTHETIC
CONFERENCE
2023
Convergence
2 DAY
FORMAT
14 TH - 15 TH JULY
Royal Pines Resort,
Gold Coast

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IN THIS ISSUE
AUTUMN VOLUME 54. 2023
73
SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH, TREATMENTS,
TECHNOLOGY AND CONFERENCES
10-15
APAN AESTHETIC
CONFERENCE
17
NETWORKING BREAKFAST
30-32
THE MELASMA
PHENOMENON
60-61
MAGNESIUM A REVIEW -
WHICH ONE IS BEST FOR
YOU?
62-67
NEUROENDOCRINE
INFLAMMATION:
SYMPTOMS, ROOT CAUSES
AND SUPPORT STRATEGIES
REGULATIONS, STANDARDS AND
EDUCATION
16
WHY EDUCATION HAS THE
POWER TO TRANSFORM
44-46
COSMETIC TATTOO
PIGMENT REGULATIONS
- A NATIONAL &
INTERNATIONAL
UNDERTAKING
47
APAN JOINS THE
AUSTRALIAN CYBER
81
SECURITY CENTRE
PARTNERSHIP PROGRAM
94-97
AHPRA RELEASES
NEW COSMETIC
ACCREDITATION
STANDARDS
98-99
PROTEOLYTIC ENZYMES -
THE DYNAMIC CATALYSTS
FOR HEALTHY DIGESTION
AND SKIN HEALTH
50
BLACKBERRIES AND
THEIR POWERFUL
DISEASE PREVENTION
AND ANTIAGEING
CONSTITUENTS
54-57
ARNICA: POTENTIAL
MECHANISMS AND
ADVERSE EFFECTS
96
68-71
CANNABIS AND HEMP
OIL: ARE THEY FOUND IN
SKINCARE?
72-75
MITOCHONDRIA
FUNCTION AND ITS IMPACT
ON SKIN HEALTH AND
ANTIAGEING
BUSINESS, PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL
DEVELOPMENT
34-35
A SHINING JEWEL OF
JOONDALUP
38-39
A MAN WITH PURPOSE
AND DEDICATION
42-43
A RISING STAR IN THE
COMPETITIVE WORLD OF
MASS MEDIA
48
WHY MENTAL FITNESS AND
NOT MENTAL HEALTH
76
WHY YOU NEED A
SOCIAL MEDIA CONTENT
CALENDER
80-81
WISDOM THAT NEVER
FAILS PART II - THE
WINNING MINDSET FOR
SUCESSFUL NEGOTIATIONS
APJ 4

2 DAY
FORMAT
85
INDUSTRY REPORTS, NEWS, PRODUCTS
AND COSMETIC MEDICINE
8-9
CEO’S REPORT
10-15
COVER STORY
52-53
PRODUCT INNOVATIONS
78-79
TRADITIONAL VS RESILIENT
HYALURONIC ACID FOR
INJECTIBLE COSMETIC
PROCEDURES: A CASE
STUDY
84-85
TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS
86-89
SCIENTIFIC NEWS
90-93
AESTHETIC BULLETIN
Editor
Dr Giulia D’Anna
(07) 5593 0360
editor@apanetwork.com
www.apanetwork.com
Typesetting & Graphics
Tahlia Schwark
TEV Group Pty Ltd
Advertising & Marketing
Tina Viney
Phone: (07) 5593 0360
info@apanetwork.com
Fax: (07) 5593 0367
Mobile: 0426 208 224
Aesthetics Practitioners
Advisory Network
PO Box 5448, Q Super
Centre QLD 4218 Australia
Publisher
TEV Group Pty Ltd
Design & Production
Artwork and Editorial
TEV Group Pty Ltd
Unit 7D 76-84 Robina Town
Centre Drive, Robina QLD
4226 Australia
Phone: (07) 5593 0360
info@apanetwork.com
Mobile: 0426 208 224
Printed For
Aesthetics Practitioners
Advisory Network
ACN: 136 987 169
ABN: 25 136 987 169
Accounts Payable
Aesthetics Practitioners
Advisory Network
PO Box 5448, Q Super
Centre QLD 4218
Journal Advisory Board
Terry Everitt - Education
Features
Wendy Neely - PR and
Marketing
Dr Douglas Grose - Scientific
Content
National Advisory Council
John Fergusson
Terry Everitt
Chris Testa
Gill Fish
Carole Jackson
Julia Grinberg
ISSN: 1836-9812
Pint Post Approved
[100000257]
Circulation 6900
11
Leaders in Education
Front Cover
APAN AESTHETIC CONFERENCE
07 5593 0360
www.apanconf.com
For further information see
pages 10-15
AUTUMN
Volume 54
2023
Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of
the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PTY LTD.
AESTHETIC
CONFERENCE
2023
Convergence
14 TH - 15 TH JULY
Royal Pines Resort,
Gold Coast
The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network
organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking.
The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its
members on better business practices and industry advancements. All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain the
property of Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior written
authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that all scientific and technical information presented is as accurate
as possible at the time of publishing. However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek external advice from their
accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations.
APJ 5

Dr Giulia D’Anna
EDITOR’S LETTER
It is conference season! June to August are
my favourite months as so many aesthetic
conferences are coming up, including the
APAN conference on the Gold Coast. The
APAN team have selected a spectacular
location and there are so many speakers
with valuable presentations that are
relevant to a wide range salon and clinics
and their staff. I will be delivering a
presentation on the changes that occur
through all the layers of the face, and
some options for treatments. I encourage
you all to prioritise this event and I
look forward to you joining us on what
promises to be an incredible event.
I have just returned from the Aesthetic
and Anti-Ageing Medicine World Congress
(AMWC) in Monaco. The themes and focus
of that even was that practitioners from
all streams can come together to create
beautiful skin and enhancements for their
patients and clients. We all have our part
to play, and the APAN Conference will
certainly showcase this, along with the
workshops that are integral to this year’s
event. So on-point with this year’s theme
“convergency”.
We have all heard that there are potentially some tougher economic times ahead of us
in the coming months, but I will seize the opportunity to take downtime to improve my
skillset and education. I know that I complain that there is never enough time in the day
to get x, y and z done. If you and your team see some opportunities for growth, and are
looking to use your spare time, there are many resources available to you. APAN website
has several courses to expand your skills and knowledge, but you might even consider
doing some basic housekeeping – CPR refresher updates, looking through stock, search
for new suppliers and so on. View the luxury of time as an opportunity.
I never rest, I literally have forgotten what it feels like to be bored, and I am always
looking for strategies to use time between education and work to start a new project.
I have finished updates in my in-house lecture room, and I am proud-as-punch, of the
atmosphere and space that I have created. In addition to that, I am in the final days of
finishing a major expansion to my training rooms. Having a great space is so important for
your clients so that they can look forward to coming back. Little touches like the music
you select, to the soft furnishings all go to creating a place where people feel comfortable.
I am sure you all know what I mean. If it has been a while, perhaps sit in your own
reception area or treatment space and experience it, gain inspiration on how it feels and
perhaps identify small ways that you can improve the experience for your clients. Check
how it makes you feel. Is there something you need to upgrade? Use any spare time to
re-invent and reinvigorate the energy in your space. It might just need a new frame on the
wall, a bit of a tidy up, or a lick of paint.
Until we meet in July at the APAN Conference, I wish you all well. I look forward to
connecting with you and hearing how your clients are progressing. APJ
editor@apanetwork.com
www.apanetwork.com
APJ 6

APJ
Contributors
Gay Wardle
gay@gaywardle.com.au
Gay Wardle is a qualified
dermal clinician and a
passionately trainer and
educatior in skin analysis,
consultation and advanced
skin treatments. Her articles
comprehensively cover
these subjects.
Terry Everitt
aestheticeducators@gmail.com
Professor Terry Everitt is highly
regarded for his extensive
knowledge in evidence-based
science. He is responsible for
the Scientific News segment
within APJ as well as his regular
well-researched articles on all
things aesthetics.
Trish Hammond
trish@thepinkroom.com.au
Trish Hammond is an awardwinning
blog and social media
expert and a leader in her field
within the aesthetics industry
and beyond. She regularly
presents educational articles
on Social Media.
Katherine McCann
k_mccann@me.com
Katherine McCann is a highly
experienced cosmetic tattoo
practitioner and trainer. She
regularly contributes to
thought-provoking cosmetic
tattoo articles in APJ.
Jacine Greenwood-
Drummond
jacine@roccoco.com.au
Jacine Greenwood-Drummond
holds qualifications in nursing,
cosmetic chemistry and is an
internationally recognised
educator on cosmetic
ingredients. Jacine contributes
articles on ingredient science.
Dr Tiina Meder
tiina.orasmae@mederbeauty.com
Dr Meder is a dermatologist
based in the UK. She is
renowned globally as
an educator in aesthetic
dermatology and a regulary
conference speaker.
Dr Meder contributes to
APJ on dermatology topics.
Deb Farnworth-Wood
deb@ultimateskinandbody.com.au
Deb Farnworth-Wood is our
business expert responsible
for APJ’s Business Wisdom
column. Deb is a business
development experts with
amazing achievements as a
seriel entrepreneur.
APJ 7

CEO’S REPORT
Tina Viney
APAN CEO
Dear colleagues and friends,
My greetings to you all and I trust that life has been kind to you.
From your feedback many of you are grappling between the
need for caution with your investments, due to the economic
instability, and the desire to introduce the latest technologies
that will make your business stand out and lead in a competitive
market.
However, having had serious discussions with both government
representatives, as well as financial experts, the recommendation
is that with clever strategic planning, supported by expert
knowledge and skills-development, the future (especially for our
industry), still remains promising with potential for continued
growth. The key here is to be prudent, while carefully investigating
ways that you can innovate and still achieve your goals.
I recently attended a business leadership workshop and we were
reminded that some of the masterpieces and brilliant works of
art that we marvel at to this day for their intricate and exquisite
beauty, were birthed in the Middle Ages amidst famine, plagues
and perilous economic times. For example, Michelangelo’s and
Leonardo da Vinci’s works of art are still considered some of the
most magnificent works of all times.
Meanwhile, Switzerland has enjoyed a quiet, prosperous and
peaceful existence free from wars and famines with economic and
social stability. And what did Switzerland give us? The Cuckoo
Clock? Indeed, the famous saying “what does not kill you makes
you stronger” still remains true.
UPDATE ON OUR CONFERENCE
Since my last report in the summer issue of APJ, to say we have
been busy is truly an understatement. As you can imaging, putting
together a conference program is a very involved undertaking and
this year as we are stepping up our program to two days instead of
one and with the addition of 12 workshops, the work is both very
exciting and exhilarating, as well as intensive. I am grateful to our
team, as together we are synchronising our efforts to ensure that
we will deliver an exceptional program and a beautiful event on
all levels. The venue is spectacular, and we are lining up the best of
the best on what promises to be an incredible two days of learning,
networking, fun and some serious conversations.
You can expect this year an incredible program with a strong focus
on skin science were we will review changes you can expect, both
in skin manifestations as well as systemic changes of unexplained
reactions that are causing grief, both for the clients and the
practitioners.
REGULATORY UPDATES
As the risks of litigation are on the rise, the topics of risk
management, regulations and best practice standards will also
strongly feature this year. The Queensland Government with
be delivering two lectures from regulatory experts from the
Notifiable Diseases Prevention & Control Department who will be
presenting two topics, one on Regulatory Framework and updates
on regulatory process and the second representative will provide
updates on infection control measures for common and more
insidious viruses.
CYBERCRIME
Due to the increasing activities in online transactions, hackers
are becoming more devious and sophisticated in their methods
with cyber crime reaching epidemic levels. Did you know that in
2021 alone, Australians lost over $300 million on scams alone?
Cybercrime is on the rise and every business needs to gain expert
advise on how to protect their intellectual property and their
databases.
We are thrilled to announce that Australia’s leading government
body Australian Cyber Security Centre (ACSC), will be providing us
APJ 8

The
purpose of
education
is to turn
mirrors into
windows.
Sydney J. Harris
with an expert who will be deliver a comprehensive presentation
of what is happening in cybercrime and present appropriate Cyber
Security measures, policies and procedures that you will need
to put into place to protect your business. This session will be
delivered by an officer at the highest level and for security reasons,
we are not allowed to print or disclose his surname. We are also
not permitted to video record his presentation. That means that
this lecture will only be viewed by delegates who attend the conference
in person.
Additionally, the Australian Cyber Security Centre (ACSC),
has officially invited APAN to become a Partner in the ACSC
Partnership Program. This will allow us to support our members
with the latest security measures to protect your business.
RETAIL: THE CLINICAL METHOD
This event will also present three business experts who will share
both their knowledge, as well as their insights on how you can
capitalise on the new consumer trends. Two ladies - Debbie Lane
and Iola Ciavarra, each from different sales backgrounds, will
provide you with expert advice and the right way to introduce
retail sales items into your business, and the most effective ways to
capitalise on this new growth market to achieve easy sales. Debbie
will share with you the WHY. while Iola will share with you the
HOW. I am sure you will be enlightened with the knowledge that
you will gain from both these two amazing ladies.
NETWORKING BREAKFAST
Our networking breakfast will be on Saturday morning, where you
will be served at your table with a beautiful full breakfast. At this
event Debbie Lane will be presenting her inspirational lecture.
This will also be a time for some networking and fun.
This year, we have carefully reviewed your feedback on the most
popular topics you wish us to present. Onother common request,
was that we increase the duration of the lecturers so that you
could gain greater knowledge from the lectures. Our sessions will
therefore be between 30 – 45minutes this year.
WORKSHOPS
The workshops are now fully secured with incredible topics and
in-depth practical presentations from some of the industry’s best
educational experts. In that environment you can also get your
questions answered and gain expert knowledge on how to solve
some of your most pressing concerrns. These sessions will allow
you to experience how you can transform the theory into valuable
protocols in your clinical environments.
Please note: The workshops will not be video recorded, so only people
who come to the live event will experience them.
WHY SHOULD YOU ATTEND?
The live event will expose you to a wealth of knowledge.
Additionally, the workshops will provide you with the opportunity
to develop your practical skills, and the networking breakfast will
offer you a memorable experience.
As this is a certified professional development event you will also
receive your certificate with 30 CPD Points.
More importantly, we would love to meet you in person and
welcome you to a special event that has been designed just for
you. Please prioritise to be there. This is not an expense – it is an
investment into a better future.
I look forward to seeing you there. APJ
Together we are better.
Tina Viney - Chief Executive Officer
APJ 9

CONFERENCE
AESTHETICS
CONFERENCE 2023
14 TH - 15 TH JULY Convergence
This year’s conference program will feature government and industry leaders
who will present the very latest in educational topics, regulatory and risk
management strategies, new scientific and business advances, as well as the
latest industry trends.
Additionally, experience the launch of 12 in-depth, PROBLEM-SOLVING
WORKSHOPS delivered by highly qualified and skilled educators and
trainers who will share with you advanced techniques, procedures and ways
of achieving superior skin treatment results and beyond! The strong focus
this year will take you from ‘theory to practice’.
LIVE EVENT PROGRAM
FRIDAY 14TH JULY
REGISTRATION: 7.45AM
As this conference event will be video recorded,
we kindly request that you arrive on time to collect
your delegate’s bag and name tag so that you can be
seated by 7.55am as the conference will commence
at 8.00am SHARP.
Thank you for your co-operation.
PROGRAM
Professor Terry Everitt: MC
8.00 – 8.05am:
Terry Everitt
INTRODUCTION TO PROGRAM
8.05 – 8.10am:
Tina Viney - CEO APAN
WELCOMING ADDRESS
8.10 – 8.40am:
Sarah Hughes - Mediclinic Training Manager,
The International Dermal Institute
TOPIC: The Changing Face of Hydroxy Acids
8.45 – 9.15am:
Tina Viney - CEO APAN
TOPIC: Solutions for Pandemic Related
Skin Manifestations
9.15 – 9.45am:
Dr Tiina Meder - Dermatologist, formulator
of Meder Beauty Science
TOPIC: Microbiome-Oriented Skincare as a New
Paradigm for Skin Therapies.
9.45 – 10.25am:
Neil Osborne - Master Trainer, Business Coach and
Entrepreneur.
TOPIC: Persuasion is the New Black
10.25 – 10.55AM
MORNING TEA – NETWORKING BREAK
10.55 – 11.30am:
Chris Wold - Principal Public Health Officer,
Communicable Disease Branch, Queensland Health.
Chris is responsible for the development of
regulatory policies.
TOPIC: Understanding the Regulatory Framework
11.30 – 11.45am:
Matthew McQuilty - Clinical Nurse Consultant,
Communicable Diseases Branch, Qld Health.
TOPIC: Communicable Disease Control in
the Workplace
APJ 10

11.45 – 12.15pm: this session will not be recorded.
Adrian C. (full name is restricted for security reasons)
is the Director of the Joint Cyber Security Centre,
National Partnership Branch, Australian Cyber
Security Centre, Australian Signals Directorate.
TOPIC: Cyber Security Awareness
12.15 – 1.00pm:
Gay Wardle - is a multi-award winner, Dermal
Clinician with a bachelor’s qualification from Victoria
University. She is a highly respected educator, trainer
and conference speaker.
TOPIC: The Role of Stem Cell Released Molecules
in Skin Renewal
1.00 – 2.00pm
LUNCH
2.00 – 2.40pm:
Dr Giulia D’Anna - Dentist, Dermal Therapists,
Editor of APJ Journal, Trainer of Dermal
Distinction Training Academy.
TOPIC: Changes to Facial Fat Distribution and
the Impact on Injectables.
2.40 – 3.10pm:
Speaker to be Confirmed.
TOPIC: New Advances in Aesthetic Technologies that
will shape the future of the Aesthetics Industry.
3.20 – 3.45pm:
Prof. Terry Everitt - Professor of Aesthetic Sciences,
Member of the Faculty at the Australasian Academy of
Health and Wellness, Member of the APAN Advisory
Council (Academic, Scientific Division).
TOPIC: Biopsychosocial Client Centric
Communication – The New Consultation Paradigm
3.45 – 5.00pm
AFTERNOON TEA AND NETWORKING
APJ 11

CONFERENCE
SATURDAY 15TH JULY
7.15– 8.30am:
NETWORKING BREAKFAST:
Debbie Lane – The Changing Face of Retail.
8.35 – 9.20am:
Katy Bacon - Director of Education, APAC, Murad
Skincare, Dermal Aesthetician, Clinical Nutritionist and
Cosmetic Chemist.
TOPIC: Turning Back the Clock on Stress-Wrinkles
9.20 – 10.00am:
Christine Pope - Naturopath, Homeopath, Nutritionist,
Director and Treasurer of Australian Traditional
Medicine Society Ltd (ATMS), Director and Treasurer
COSBOA Ltd.
TOPIC: Inflammation and its Impact on
Ageing and Disease
10.05 – 10.45am:
Lynette Rouse - accomplished skin, health and
aesthetics professional and holds a degree in Health
Science and post-graduate Certificate in Business,
Marketing and Communications.
TOPIC: New Microbiome Technology – Taking results
Beyond Skincare to Overall Health
10.45 – 11.15AM
MORNING TEA – NETWORKING BREAK
11.15 – 12.00pm:
Expert panel - Prof. Terry Everitt – moderator.
• Robert McGowan - Director, Think Aesthetics,
APAN regulatory representative Australia and EU,
(Tattoo Pigment Regulations), member of the APAN
Advisory Council (Academic/Scientific Division).
• Tina Viney - CEO, APAN Post-pandemic skin
challenges and APAN regulatory activities).
• Sue Sparrow-Crisp -, Director, Sparrow Insurance,
(The rising incidents in litigation).
• Cheri-Lee Knoop - President, Cosmetic Nurses
Association, (AHPRA regulatory Changes).
• Metro-Dora Clifford P- Principal,Clinical
Therapies Laser Institute, (Laser/IPL burns)
TOPIC: Courage and Conviction: Defeating the Threats
that Risk the Future of our Industry.
12.00 – 12.45pm:
Jacine Greenwood-Drummond – Multi-award winner
and globally acknowledge cosmetic chemist and product
formulator of Roccoco Botanicals.
TOPIC: Restoring the Skin’s Barrier Function
12.45 – 1.00pm:
Iola Ciavarra - is a beauty and medical aesthetics
industry leader with 30 years of experience and the
wholesaler of REVEAL.
TOPIC: Retail – It’s not a Dirty Word
1.00 – 2.00pm
LUNCH
2.00 – 2.45pm:
Katherine McCann - is an award-winning paramedical
cosmetic tattooist, qualified journalist and educator. She
is considered an innovative thought-leader who loves
to ‘blend worlds’, combining her tertiary knowledge and
practical skills.
TOPIC: The Science of Symmetry: Exploring Techniques
and Benefits of Cosmetic Tattooing and other
Modalities in Ptosis and Facial Ageing Conditions.
2.45 – 3.45pm:
Expert Panel: To be advised.
TOPIC: Facial Rosacea and Effective
Treatment Solutions
3.45pm – 4.00pm:
SPECIAL SPONSORS GIFT
DRAW VALUED AT OVER $2000!
4.00 – 5.00pm
AFTERNOON TEAM AND – NETWORKING
LET’S LEARN AND HAVE FUN TOGETHER!
REGISTER TODAY!
APJ 12
REGISTER TODAY
Visit www.apanconf.com or phone
07 5593 0360 for further details.

CONFERENCE 2023
APAN launches NEW FORMAT for AESTHETIC CONFERENCE 2023
14 TH - 15 TH JULY
Royal Pines Resort, Gold Coast
Power of Convergence
IN THE ART & SCIENCE OF AESTHETICS.
The event will feature an exciting new and
expanded educational format providing you
with the very latest in the Art and Science of
Aesthetics. Located at the amazing Five Star
Royal Pines Resort with its breathtaking views
and magnificent facilities, it will ensure your
experience will be lavish and memorable.
NEW FORMAT: TWO DAYS
EXTRA VALUE
12 WORKSHOPS
NETWORKING BREAKFAST
DELEGATES GIFTS
CERTIFICATE & 40 CPD POINTS
LOCATED AT ONE OF AUSTRALIA’S MOST
IDYLLIC TOURIST DESTINATION
WHO SHOULD ATTEND:
• Aestheticians
• Dermal Therapists
• Dermal Clinicians
• Cosmetic Nurses
• Cosmetic Doctors
• Practice Managers
• Cosmetic Tattooists
• Educators and trainers
Exhibition and sponsorship packages are also available. APJ 13

CONFERENCE
Enhance your treatment results by taking
your Theory into Practice
THE POWER OF
WORKSHOPS
This year APAN is introducing an additional stream of workshops delivered by companies
and their trainers and qualified educators, which will be part of the conference program.
These will allow delegates to observe protocols and treatments in a more intimate
environment, ask questions and even participate in the treatment. There will be no
additional cost to delegates to also participate in these workshops.
FRIDAY 14 JULY:
9.15 – 10.00am:
Dermalogica Pro
The Changing face of Hydroxy Acids
10.55 – 11.40am:
MM Medical Aesthetics
Microcurrent and IPL
12.15 – 1.00pm:
Eve Taylor London
Skin and Wellness
Transformational Techniques
2.00 – 2.40pm:
Clinical Pro
Lesions and Red Vein Removal
2.40 – 3.10pm:
Procell Therapies
Microchanneling – the next generation
technology for superior results
3.20 – 4.15pm:
Light Frequency
Learn About Swiss Bioptron Light
Technology and Experience the
Exceptional Benefits for Skin
APJ 14
REGISTER TODAY
Visit www.apanconf.com or phone
07 5593 0360 for further details.

SATURDAY 15 JULY:
10.05 – 10.45am:
Murad
Maximising the Benefits of Professional
Skin Peels for your Business
11.15 – 12.00pm:
Issada
Enhancing your clinical results with
the latest in skincare technology
12.00 – 12.45 pm:
NeoGenesis
Stem-cell formulation – the answer
to Skin Repair and Renewal
2.00 – 2.45pm:
Roccoco Botanicals
How to avoid burns and reactions
with Ethnic Skin Types
2.45 – 3.40pm:
MM Medical Aesthetics
HIFU and Plasma
4.00 – 5.00pm:
ClinicalPro
How to avoid burns and reactions
with Ethnic Skin Types
Exhibition and sponsorship packages are also available.
APJ 15

EDUCATION
WHY EDUCATION HAS THE
POWER TO
TRANSFORM
Tina Viney
When it comes to a successful life on every level, we all know that
good education and having sufficient and up-to-date knowledge
are some of the key fundamentals that will help us achieve our
dreams and a meaningful life.
While we may start in life learning things such as reading, writing
and arithmetic these are only designed to enable us to think
strategically. Instead, formal education is about gaining the
knowledge and the skills needed to become a better person and
create a better society to live in.
A good education sets people up to grow personally,
professionally, and socially. It can awaken joy, curiosity and a deep
desire to solve problems and help others. Plus, developing depth
of knowledge can ignite in us the inspiration to pursue leadership
roles and positively impact those around us. This cannot occur
without first developing depth of knowledge in areas that we
wish to specialise in so that we can impart not just the technical
knowledge to others, but also the passion to continue to excel at
what they do – this will allow us to develop legacy, knowing that
when we are gone, our influence will continue to live through the
lives of others that we have impacted.
One of the other many benefits of education is that it can broaden
our horizons, helping us identify new possibilities and gain a
better perspective of how to do what we do on a better level. The
power of ongoing education is that it can help us to become better
versions of ourselves, while also enriching others around us.
THE JOY OF THE NEW
Years ago, when I was teaching, I made a point of researching
my subject so that each time I delivered a lesson, whether it was
science, techniques, new concepts, or personal attitude and ethics,
I had something fresh and new to share. This allowed me to
deliver each lesson with the enthusiasm as if it was the first time.
In essence, I was delivering something new each time, even if the
subject content was the same as what I had taught before.
When we look at nature, we can identify the joy that the
various weather cycles bring to us. Winter is a season when the
temperatures drop. It’s a time to bring out our woollies, light a
fire, change our menu to include tasty hot soups, roasts and even
indulge in richer food. We enjoy sleeping longer and the pace of
our life changes accordingly. Nature drops its leaves and chilly
winds and rain become more frequent.
But this is all temporary. Soon enough spring arrives, bringing
with it a burst of colour as nature adorns its vegetation with new
shoots, blossoming flowers, the birth of new life and the smell of
new aromas that fill the air.
Nature teaches us that change is important, and it is part of the
growth cycle of life.
The same applies to our life.
We cannot camp on the joys of the past. We need to create new
memories and new ways of connecting with each other.
Without change, marriages can become stagnant and eventually
even die. You cannot rely on what “has been” on the memory of
your fist love, you need to constantly cultivate and invest in the
growth of your relationship through meaningful interactions, that
are loving, nurturing, purposeful and adventurous if they are to
survive.
The same applied to your work. While your clients were excited
and delighted to experience your first services, if each time they
come to you your service remains exactly the same, predictable
with no element of something fresh and new, over time they will
soon tire of you and seek a new experience, possibly with another
clinic.
Ask yourself “why is your client coming to you? What is it that
they are looking for? While it may be the service you provide
them with your skills and knowledge to improve their appearance,
the real reason is they want to feel better about themselves and
improve the quality of their life. Seek therefore to also identify the
psychological elements of your engagement with them so that you
connect with them also on that level.
What we cannot afford to lose sight of is that interacting with
others requires a rich blend of knowledge, wisdom, honesty, caring
and compassion - in other words, a blend of mind and heart. To
achieve this learning must be something we continue to crave and
be excited about – it needs to be a lifelong process that supports
our growth and development.
Education and learning can empower us to become an empathic
individual, build our self-confidence, learn more about our
strengths and address our weaknesses, but above all it will help
us remain excited at how new information about ourselves
and others, or in perfecting what we do continues to grow and
improve. Education can help us replace an empty mind with an
open one and fuel the adventure of living.
Helen Keller once said that educational success involves not just
mastering the necessary concepts and principles for what we do,
but also gain practical everyday experience relating to them.
We should view our daily activities as an opportunity for growth,
reflecting upon each situation and learning from them. Enriching
our brains with new and valuable information improves our ability
to think, analyse and process the world around us. The learning
process is important because it results in new knowledge —
knowledge that opens our minds to new perspectives, ideas and
solutions. It helps us become more confident and bolder to adapt
to new and unfamiliar environments. A simple, but powerful
reminder of the positive domino effect that good education can
have on many aspects of both our personal and professional life as
well as expand our outlook on how we view the world. APJ
APJ 16

NETWORKING
BREAKFAST
SATURDAY 15TH JULY 2023
7.15AM – 8.30AM
The Changing Face
of Retail
PRESENTER:
DEBBIE LANE
Start Day 2 of the Conference program on a high. Join us for an exhilarating networking
breakfast. Enjoy the amazing services of the Royal Pines Resort as they serve you with a
delicious breakfast.
And to start the day on a positive note, we have an exceptional speaker who will inspire and
share with you new revelations on ways to grow your business.
Debbie Lane is a highly qualified and accomplished business development manager and sales and
marketing expert with an impressive portfolio of achievements and a proven record of incredible
sales and business growth capabilities for which she has been nationally acknowledge and
recognised through numerous awards.
Debbie has worked, managed and spearheaded the launch and growth of numerous global
brands in both the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries such as L’Oreal, Cipla and Bioglan,
just to name a few. She has also managed sales teams as National Accounts Managers for
Hospitals as well as several start-up companies in the generic medicine space.
Debbie exudes a joyous and positive disposition with a strong “can-do” attitude that is
infectious. In this presentation she will share with you valuable highlights from her professional
journey and the secrets that have transforms some small and seemingly ordinary businesses into
multi-million-dollar business models.
Because of her incredible knowledge and experience we are delighted that she has accepted
to be part of the APAN National Advisory Council.
An experience not to be missed!
To register: https://apanconf.com/networking-breakfast
APJ 17

DEVELOPED BY DR. MURAD
The Groundbreaking
Formula
$10k in a bottle!
NOW AVAILABLE FOR PROFESSIONAL,
MEDICAL USE IN AUSTRALIA
Before glycolic acid was the holy grail of skincare
products and professional treatments, there was
Dr. Howard Murad and his Los Angeles-based
dermatology practice.
“I treated over 10,000 patients with my
glycolic acid formula. The results were as
close as you could get to transforming
skin without surgery or a needle.”
TIME TRAVEL - BACK TO THE 80s
“In the 1980s, glycolic acid was a brandnew
ingredient without any clinical
trials or real-world demonstration of its
performance,” says Dr. Murad. “There was
no textbook to reference but, as a trained
pharmacist, I understood its chemical
properties and started experimenting on
my own skin.”
ageing and keratosis pilaris to
hyperpigmentation, Dr. Murad forged
ahead, launching 3 inaugural Murad
Skincare products.
Potent, proven and results-driven,
the products positioned Dr. Murad
as a pioneer in the clinical skincare
movement. Today, the Murad brand
niacinamide and retinol to help smooth,
brighten and restore a more radiant
complexion.
PEELS: TRANSFORMING SKIN... AND
YOUR BUSINESS
Increase Revenue: Peels are a highmargin
service that add to your clinic’s
bottom line.
Undergoing before & after
biopsies on his inner arm, Dr.
Murad and a team of experts
documented the efficacious
results of his exclusive glycolic
acid formula for Cosmetic
Dermatology medical journal.
Some of his patients also
presented dramatic before and
after results, proving glycolic
acid’s transformational power
across a multitude of skin
concerns and types.
ACID ON MY FACE? NO THANKS.
At a professional esthetics and
skincare expo, Dr. Murad was eager
to share his findings and his formula
featuring this incredibly transformative
skincare ingredient but was met with
apprehension. “Everyone looked at me
quizzically. They were all scared of the
word acid - and you especially don’t put
acid on the face!”
BUT! Inspired by glycolic acid’s versatility
and success on skin types from blemishes,
BASELINE
BASELINE
IMMEDIATE
WEEK 2 POST 2ND PEEL
remains committed to developing
clinically proven cosmeceutical products
for consumers and formulating powerful
professional peels and treatments for
exclusive use by skincare experts.
THE PROOF IS IN THE PICTURES
This medical-grade treatment embodies
Dr. Murad’s unique approach of precisely
blending actives, in this case 67% high
potency glycolic acid plus a proprietary
retexturising blend of salicylic acid,
Attract New Customers: modern
consumers know the power of
peels and are seeking results
without the downtime of surgery.
Wow Existing Customers: Peels
offer advanced results across an
extended treatment protocol
with prep and post-treatment
homecare essential to skin health.
Build Customer Loyalty:
Peels enable you to provide
personalised treatment journeys
with incredible results.
LIQUID GOLD
Each bottle of Murad’s Glycolic
Acid Pro Peel offers an incredible
return on investment of more than
$10,000*.
Scan the QR code at the top of the page to
discover how Murad’s ‘Technoceuticals
Peels’ can benefit your business.
*ROI calculated from average 44 treatments per bottle, $250
charge per treatment, minus wholesale cost of product.
APJ 18

FORMULATED BY DR. MURAD FOR TOTAL SKIN HEALTH
Glycolic Acid Pro Peel
67% High Potency Glycolic Acid
Precisely Blended with Salicylic Acid, Niacinamide and Retinol
to Deliver Smoother, Brighter, More Radiant Skin.
Murad’s Glycolic Acid Pro Peel is a journey to total skin health.
Embark on your journey today via this QR Code.
For stockist enquiries contact 1800 687 237 or info_au@murad.com
APJ 19

INTERVIEW
ENTITY
HEALTH
An interview with Eva Tan – CCO, iX Biopharma
The evidence of the overall health benefits of Glutathione as a
master antioxidant are scientifically well substantiated.
Entity, an Australian-based nutraceuticals company that is
leading the way in evidence-based formulations, has developed
a Glutathione sublingual supplement which is making waves for
its ability to not only support overall health, but also deliver skinspecific
benefits.
Recently, they announced the results of a scientific study that
reviewed and measured how their RadianiX® Glutathione
sublingual supplement is now proven to support positive changes
in specific skin conditions, providing salons and clinics with
scientifically validated evidence of the benefits that their product
can deliver.
We interviewed Eva Tan, Chief Commercial Officer from iX
Biopharma, the parent company that developed RadianiX®
Glutathione about the results of the latest studies.
APJ Q1: EVA, TELL US ABOUT THE RECENT STUDY RESULTS
THAT REVIEWED YOUR GLUTATHIONE PRODUCT, AND CAN
YOU SHARE WITH US THE STUDY’S OUTCOMES?
While our sublingual Glutathione wafers were delivering excellent
overall health results, the objective of this study was to investigate
Glutathione’s efficacy on improving the skin’s overall health and
appearance.
What’s truly special about RadianiX® Glutathione is that as an
internal supplement, it can benefit the skin at a subcutaneous
level and therefore provide solutions for multiple skin concerns,
unlike other products that target only one or two problem areas.
This means that with RadianiX®, users can enjoy a comprehensive
improvement in the overall health and appearance of their skin.
Study Design and Results
The study consisted of a 12-week trial of 34 Sydney-based healthy
women between the ages of 30 to 65 years old, with Fitzpatrick
APJ 20

skin types IV or V. The study’s objectives were to evaluate and
measure improvements in skin texture, skin gloss and luminosity,
elasticity, fine lines and wrinkles, particularly around the eyes, skin
colour changes, and brightness.
We were thrilled with the study results, which provided evidence
of significant improvements to the skin within just 14 days of using
RadianiX® Glutathione as follows:
• Significant increase in skin luminosity by up to 60%.
• Significant reduction in fine lines and wrinkles around the
eyes by up to 51%.
And it got even better after 28 days, and the improvement
continued after eight weeks.
After 28 days:
• significant increase in skin elasticity by up to 226%
After eight weeks:
• Significant increase in skin lightness by up to 12%
• Significant increase in skin smoothness with a decrease in
skin dullness by up to 71%.
APJ Q2: IN LIGHT OF THESE RESULTS HOW CAN THIS
DATA SUPPORT PRACTITIONERS AND BUSINESS OWNERS
IN GAINING CONFIDENCE TO INCORPORATE RadianiX®
GLUTATHIONE WITHIN THEIR SKIN TREATMENT PROGRAMS
AND IN RECOMMENDING IT TO THEIR CLIENTS OR PATIENTS?
Entity Health is committed to providing businesses with products
that have been clinically proven to deliver positive changes, both
systemically and with skin improvement. With the results of this
study, practitioners can confidently add RadianiX® Glutathione
to their skin treatment programs. Together with their topical
protocols, it can work synergistically to support and enhance their
treatment outcomes.
Furthermore, as our products are manufactured in a TGA-certified
GMP facility in Melbourne, and we comply with the high standards
of safety and quality required under Australian law, clinicians and
business owners can confidently recommend our products to their
clients and patients.
APJ Q3: DID THE TRIALS SHOW ANY IMPROVEMENT IN
THE TREATMENT OF PIGMENTATION AND WHAT OTHER
BENEFITS DOES RadianiX® GLUTATHIONE PROVIDE FOR
OVERALL HEALTH?
As far as pigmentation is concerned the research provided
evidence of skin lightening and skin brightening, helping to
minimise the appearance of pigmentation. It is also important
to realise that the benefits of glutathione go beyond just skin
health. Glutathione is known as the mother of all antioxidants.
It helps neutralise free radicals, which are harmful molecules
that can damage cells and contribute to the ageing process and
various diseases. Furthermore, Glutathione is a vital component
of a healthy immune system and can help to support our body’s
defence response against infections and diseases. By incorporating
RadianiX® Glutathione into your daily routine, you can support
immune health and overall well-being and protect the skin against
the fight against pigmentation.
APJ Q4: WE KNOW THAT GLUTATHIONE DELIVERED
ORALLY CAN BE UNSTABLE, HOW HAS YOUR PATENTED
TECHNOLOGY OVERCOME SOME OF THESE CHALLENGES?
Yes, the issue of stability in delivering the optimal benefits of
Glutathione is crucial. For this reason, we have addressed this
through our patented technology, WaferiX®, which is a game
changer for Glutathione delivery. Unlike traditional oral forms like
tablets and capsules where glutathione is broken down in the GI
tract, we have used WaferiX® to stabilise Glutathione within our
highly porous, amorphous, non-ionic solid wafer matrix.
Our novel wafer formulation rapidly dissolves under the tongue,
releasing glutathione for immediate absorption through the
mucosal membrane directly into the bloodstream, bypassing the
GI tract. This result in a highly bioavailable and incredibly effective
supplement.
If you would like to improve your skin treatment results and would
like to introduce RadianiX® Glutathione to your clients, please get
in touch with us. APJ
orders@ixsyrinx.com | www.ixsyrinx.com | 0421 433 660.
Boost your skin treatment results
with evidence-based nutrition
supporting skin cells from within
• RadianiX® Glutathione
• Now clinically validated for
skincare improvement
• Raising your confidence
with results you can be
proud of
orders@ixsyrinx.com | www.ixsyrinx.com | 0421 433 660
APJ 21

STAR PERFORMER
ISSADA Cosmeceuticals
ISSADA Clinical Formula Anti-Ageing Serum
At the forefront of clinical skincare
for the aesthetics industry, ISSADA
Cosmeceuticals utilises cutting edge
technology in its Clinical Formula range,
to bring you the most advanced range of
products that offer instant and long-term
results for your clients.
The most recent addition, the ISSADA
Clinical Formula range, has been creating
a pleasant stir in the industry due to its
innovative approach to targeting ageing on
various levels with the introduction of their
clinically active, ISSADA Clinical Formula
Anti-Ageing Serum. An all-in-one serum
that addresses skin firmness, fine lines and
wrinkles, pigmentation, and dehydration.
Formulated with clinically proven active
ingredients including:
Progeline Biomimetic Tripeptide
Progeline is a powerful firming
Biomimetic Tripeptide, which decreases
progerin. As cells age, the accumulation
of progerin causes skin cell defects and
increased DNA damage, which greatly
contributes to skin ageing. Progeline
decreases progerin synthesis, and clinically
improves the visible signs associated with
skin ageing: sagging, slackness
and wrinkles.
Plant Epidermal Growth Factor
(plant-EFG)
The ageing process of the skin resembles
a chronic injury. The combination of
internal and external factors in the ageing
process leads to an oxidative imbalance,
damage to protein structures and the
creation of inflammation, just like a wound.
ISSADA Cosmeceuticals have introduced
an innovative plant-Epidermal Growth
Factor (plant-EFG), which activates protein
synthesis and cellular regeneration to
provide skin with an increase in collagen
& elastin production by up to 123% and
45% respectfully in just 7 days, and a 32%
reduction of wrinkle depth in just 28 days.
exposure. Fine lines are reduced, skin barrier protection is strengthened and radiance
and skin glow is restored.
Pentavitin®
A clinically proven active ingredient which promotes radiance and skin glow. Studies
show that this super hydrating active rapidly increases skin hydration in as little as
3 hours.
Saccharide Isomerate
A powerful moisturising agent derived from sugar extracted from corn. The size of its
molecule is smaller than other hydrating ingredients and can therefore travel into the
lower layers of the skin’s structure. This super hydrating ingredient targets dehydration
and dull, lifeless skin, enabling it to regain its youthful glow and plumpness.
Oat Beta Glucan
Promotes collagen production and the skin’s ability to repair, whilst supporting barrier
protection. This deeply hydrating active creates a natural protective film to boost and
maintain moisture levels and to prevent epidermal moisture loss. Improves the visible
signs of dehydration, fine lines and wrinkles, for a smoother, younger looking skin.
Results have been outstanding, and it’s backed by great support for clinicians from the
ISSADA Cosmeceutical brand, which offers a complete range of cosmeceutical skincare
and mineral makeup, with unbeatable margins, training, monthly promotional offers, and
business mentoring.
ISSADA Clinical Formula Anti-Ageing Serum is priced at only $99rrp, which makes it
super affordable for such a potent and clinically active formula.
All ISSADA Cosmeceutical products are packed with clinical actives, are cruelty free and
vegan, and free from known ingredients that can irritate or compromise skin health. APJ
To learn more about becoming a stockist, visit
issada.com/partners. For product and stockist
enquiries call 07 3904 2288.
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
Helps to support and hydrate the skin,
aiding with pigmentation, age spots, whilst
repairing damaged DNA from free radical
APJ 22

APJ 23

BUSINESS PROFILE
WHY YOU SHOULD
TRUST SOLTA MEDICAL
A pioneer from the start, Solta Medical has
helped define the fast-emerging aesthetics
industry with award-winning medical
devices including Fraxel® and Thermage®.
Both Fraxel and Thermage are the firstof-their-kind
and have influenced the
way skin health is addressed in cosmetic
dermatologist practice.
The 20+ Year History of Thermage
Monopolar radiofrequency skin tightening
was the first nonsurgical technique
developed for facial skin tightening. A lot
has changed in the 20 years since then.
New generations of the technology
have been introduced, culminating in
the current fourth generation known
as Thermage FLX.
New treatment protocols have been
developed, enabling skin health providers
to deliver skin tightening treatments that
are more tolerable, more effective and
meet the expectations of more clients.
With Thermage FLX you can target skin (of
any Fitzpatrick type) on and off the face
(including the eyelid itself) – all with the
convenience of a single handpiece.
Best of all, the innovative AccuREPTM
feature takes personalisation to the next
level. AccuuREP ensures that each and
every pulse of monopolar radiofrequency
energy delivered to your client’s skin is
tuned to that specific section of skin.
Thanks to minimal downtime and an ability to treat all year round, even your busiest
clients can smooth, tighten and contour their skin with an annual Thermage FLX skin
health treatment.
How does it work?
Thermage FLX uses radiofrequency technology to heat the deeper, collagen-rich layers
of the skin. To aid patient comfort, the tip vibrates and cools the surface. The applied
heat separates water molecules from collagen fibrils, which causes them to contract
immediately, resulting in skin tightening. Over the next few months, a secondary
healing response continues as collagen is deposited and remodeled. As the collagen is
remodelled, the skin tightens further over time. Results can continue to improve for up
to 6 months after a single treatment. The collagen changes induced by Thermage FLX
don’t go away, but the aging process continues. Therefore, maintenance treatments
are suggested every 6-12 months, depending on the client’s skin condition, goals and
financial considerations.
About Solta Medical
The foundation of our success is ultimately in delivering skin health outcomes to
patients. That is why it is important that our devices are backed by clinical evidence,
regular clinical training, responsive technical service, comprehensive marketing support,
bespoke account management, and fair pricing. Collectively our devices have delivered
over 6.3 million treatments around the world, are backed by more than 120 clinical
papers, and have even won awards and enjoyed the spotlight on the red carpet. We
provide our service across Australia, including in-person practical clinical training and
technical services. Our portfolio of aesthetic medical devices include the pioneering
Fraxel, one-of-a-kind Thermage, and red carpet favourite Clear + Brilliant. APJ
For more information visit thermage.com.au
Or Follow us on Facebook and Instagram @thermageau
Distributed in Australia by Bausch & Lomb ABN 88 000 222 408.
Level 2, 12 Help Street, Chatswood, NSW 2067, Australia.
1800 251 150. THR.0036.AU.22
Old Protocol One
Pass @ High Energy
New Protocol Many
Passes @ Low Energy
Finding
68% 94% Found that treatment results met expectations
26% 87% Observed immediate tightening
54% 92% Observed skin tightening 6 months after treatment
45% 5% Found the procedure too painful
APJ 24

APJ 25

BUSINESS PROFILE
EVE TAYLOR
LONDON
Relaunches in Australia under new management
As a result of our turbulent world, recent studies show a strong
shift in consumer trends who are seeking ways to nurture both
their appearance as well as their mental and emotional wellbeing.
The latest report confirms that salons and clinics are experiencing
an increasing request for in-clinic therapies that also lower
stress levels and improve overall health. The need for a more
integrative approach combining a synergy of skin and body care is
consistently growing in demand.
There has never been a better time than now when Eve Taylor
London solutions were more relevant and needed.
The Eve Taylor Brand
Eve Taylor is the founder of the Institute of Clinical Aromatherapy
in London, England and is renowned globally as one of the
pioneers of modern aromatherapy. Today, at age 92, she still likes
to oversee the various activities within the company and does so
on a daily basis.
Eve Taylor has been the recipient of numerous awards and in
January 2008 she was also the recipient of the OBE (Order of the
British Empire) in recognition for her extensive body of work in
both skincare and aromatherapy and in establishing aromatherapy
as a respected profession.
Eve’s passion has always been to educate and train the
next generation. She has trained thousands of beauty and
aromatherapy practitioners in her quintessential holistic and
timeless methodologies that brings together the wisdom of
both East and West into the practice of modern skin and body
therapies.
Furthermore, the Eve Taylor London formulations provide a
complete range of high-quality skin and body products. They
harness the power of pure and unadulterated aromatherapy oils
combined with the latest biotechnology skincare formulations to
deliver a complete range of high-quality, results-driven treatment
solutions that go beyond for skin and body to help relieve stress
and restore wellbeing.
The spa body range harnesses nature’s finest ingredients
combining aromatherapy and algotherapy to synergistically work
together bringing about balance as part of the ultimate spa body
wellness experience.
The range has been developed with both wet room and dry room
set-ups in mind, meaning shower facilities are not required for any
of the treatments.
The products also include an exclusive range of homecare
products that can expand your retail range for an ultimate
homecare, as well as excellent gift options to support on-going
business growth and consistently meet client needs.
The professional treatment formulations are designed so that
the practitioner also has the choice to customise and personalise
their client’s skincare to their exacting needs, making the client
experience even more rewarding and personal.
Tracey Cox appointed Australian Distributor
Eve Taylor London is delighted to announce that Tracey Cox has
been appointed as the Australian distributor. With qualifications
and extensive experience in Beauty Therapy as well as tertiary
studies in Nutrition and Dietetics, Tracey will empower businesses
through a rich and comprehensive educational program to help
them achieve leading treatment outcomes and sustainable
business growth.
Having just returned from London, Tracey has gained additional
training as well as witnessed the incredible reputation and respect
of the Eve Taylor brand. Embraced by over 1000 training colleges
and thousands of spas and salons across the UK, Tracey was
amazed at the fierce consumer and business loyalty that the brand
is experiencing across several business entities - salons, clinics,
spas and training colleges, where the time-honoured systems
continue to consistently provide their clients with results they
greatly value and appreciate.
Today, Eve Taylor London is considered a leading and ever-growing
preferred brand, not just in the UK, but also in over 45 countries
worldwide.
“I am thrilled and honoured at my appointment as the company’s
Australian Agent,” Tracey says, “and I look forward to sharing my
knowledge with practitioners and business owners in the unique
Eve Taylor practice methods. I am excited to help them gain full
advantage of a truly effective integrative approach for both skin
and body that extend beyond the topical to systemic wellbeing”.
“I am committed to helping businesses in Australia also achieve
phenomenal success and perpetual business growth that I have
APJ 26

witnessed in the UK, as they embrace this incredible product and
time-honoured methods,” she said.
Tracey is passionate both with the Eve Taylor London product
range, as well as the Systems Analysis® and the unique Eve Taylor
practice methods.
“These are proven methods that continue to provide exceptional
value to salons and clinics through a high level of skin
improvement and antiageing results, while additionally, providing
an integrative approach in restoring overall wellbeing with
substantial and noticeable results. You can’t get better than that! It’s
a win/win/win for client, therapist and salon owner,” Tracey said.
Additionally, the purity of the specific essential oils, offer, not
only an incredible sensorial experience, both for the client and the
practitioner, they also transition through the blood/brain barrier
lowering stress levels and elevating mood.
For super sensitive skins that do not tolerate aromas Eve Taylor
has a special. fragrance-free skincare range formulated just
for them. Regardless of the skin type and condition, there is
something for everyone, including challenging skin conditions such
as acne, rosacea and eczema, just to name a few.
Eve Taylor London will be exhibiting at the APAN Aesthetics
Conference. Please attend for the opportunity to also meet Tracey
Cox (also known as Tracey O’). Tracey will also be conducting a
workshop, presenting an introduction to the Systems Analysis®
method as well as demonstrations of technique that make this
brand so successful. APJ
For further information on introducing Eve Taylor London to your
business please contact TraceyO’ and her team at:
1300 383 829 | Mobile 0448 390 022
Email: info@evetaylor.com.au | www.evetaylor.com.au
I am committed to helping businesses in Australia also
achieve phenomenal success and perpetual business growth
that I have witnessed in the UK, as they embrace this
incredible product and time-honoured methods.
APJ 27

A Legacy of Unsurpassed Purity
Unbeatable Skin and Body results
Time-proven formulations that
nurture and rejuvenate, while
enhancing wellbeing.
• NO minimum opening order
• Excellent mark-up, competitive prices
• Sold only through professional outlets
• International standard of educational and
clinical training
• Excellent marketing support
• Comprehensive and specialty ranges
for advanced skin treatments, body,
pregnancy, men, over 150 blended
aromatherapy formulations, carrier oils
individual pure essential oils.
• Time-honoured proven-effective
formulations available world-wide in over
45 nations
• Be part of the legacy.
For further information on introducing Eve Taylor London to your business please contact TraceyO’ and her team at:
1300 383 829 | 0448 390 022
info@evetaylor.com.au | www.evetaylor.com.au

EVE TAYLOR
LONDON
CELEBRATES
60 YEARS!
APJ 29

TREATMENTS
THE MELASMA
PHENOMENON
A clinical review and advances in
treatment recommendations
Tina Viney
Melasma, would have to be one of the most difficult skin
conditions to treat. On a regular basis we receive requests
for advice on effective treatment methods and precautionary
measures in treating this condition. As it worked out, recent
studies, as well as new product development are offering hope in
addressing this challenging skin conditions with more
promising outcomes.
Melasma is also known as chloasma, or pregnancy pigmentation.
It appears as patchy shades of brown pigmentation on sunexposed
areas of the face and is considered among the most
prevalent, challenging, and emotionally charged conditions that
dermatologists treat. It’s extremely common, affecting billions of
women worldwide and can be incredibly upsetting to those who
experience it, as it gives the skin a ‘dirty, patchy look’. Even when
treated, it can quickly return.
Melasma is predominantly prevalent in skin types that fall within
type II through to V on the Fitzpatrick scale and is most prominent
in women 25-65 years of age.
While melasma is fuelled by UV light, it is the interplay between
light and hormonal changes within the body that make is
extremely difficult to permanently squelch.
In fact, heat-based devices commonly used to eviscerate the
discoloration associated with those issues tend to make melasma
worse by virtue of their heat, which can spark more pigment
formation in the weeks following treatment. Fearing this rebound
effect, it is generally recommended that melasma be treated with
heat-free solutions, like gentle chemical peels and, more recently,
energy-free microneedling treatments - typically, in conjunction
with potent tyrosinase inhibiting ingredients and strict sun
avoidance.
Recent emerging studies support the use of microneedling as
a successful strategy in hundreds of cases, across skin tones,
attributing its efficacy, largely to the channels it creates in the skin.
These carefully oriented punctures serve as tiny portals, allowing
select lightening agents to seep into the skin’s deeper layers,
which are impossible to reach with ordinary creams.
CAN MELASMA BE DIAGNOSED?
Melasma is usually diagnosed after examining the colour and
pattern of the pigment. A small sample of skin (biopsy) may be
taken by a dermatologist to confirm the diagnosis and exclude
other causes of increased pigmentation.
WHY IS MELASMA SO DIFFICULT TO TREAT?
Melasma can stain the epidermis, or topmost layer of the skin,
as well as the deeper dermis, and oftentimes affects both. The
epidermal component usually clears with lightening creams, but
the dermal component is resistant to treatment.
Beyond the placement of pigment, what makes melasma so
difficult to treat are the omnipresent stimuli responsible for
its creation. Since the condition is fuelled primarily by female
APJ 30

hormones and sunlight, you have these two really strong forces
trying hard to make melasma return, making achieving lasting
results appear like a never-ending pursuit.
Melasma is perpetuated by both endogenous oestrogen - our
own innate supply, which waxes during pregnancy and wanes
with menopause - as well as exogenous sources, like birth control
pills and hormone therapy. While dermatologists often do not
specialise in hormone therapy, they often suggest that women
with melasma stop the Pill if they can, and use alternate forms of
contraception, but in cases of endometriosis and other medical
problems this may not be recommended. In such cased they
usually work with the patient’s gynaecologist, who may transition
a melasma sufferer to a low-dose pill or order an alternative
medical solution.
THE IMPACT OF SUN ON MELASMA
Equally unrelenting is the sun, which is why most dermatologists
won’t even attempt to treat melasma with anything other than
sunscreen and prescription creams during the UV-intense summer
months as it is considered as fighting an uphill battle. It is generally
estimated that five minutes in the sun can reverse a month
of treatments.
Whether inside, outside, or in the car, broad-spectrum sunscreen
with a high SPF is mandatory, as are hats with circumferential
brims wide enough to shield melasma hot spots, like the forehead,
upper lip, cheeks, and nose.
TREATMENT RECOMMENDATIONS
PICO Laser: As melasma is easily triggered with heat, it stands
to reason that heat-based treatments such as lasers are not
recommended. However, there is one exception – PICO lasers.
This technology is highly effective as it operates through photomechanical
pulsed light and emits little to no heat. Additionally,
the energy is delivered so quickly, literally in trillionths of a
second that there is no time for it to convert from mechanical
energy to thermal energy, which makes it excellent for treating
melasma as well as other conditions. True 300ps laser technology
is highly effective in treating not just melasma, but also acne and
acne scars, pigmentation, skin tags and lesions as well as tattoo
removal. However, while the PICO laser does help with melasma,
several treatments are needed, and best results are achieved
when combined with other treatments, such as microneedling,
appropriate tyrosinase inhibitors and of course, consistent
sunblock use.
MICRONEEDLING: How can microneedling help minimise
melasma? As we know the action of microneedling is mechanical
and not heat-derived. It delivers a serious of clean, controlled
punctures to a certain depth into the skin, ideally to the
epidermis and superior dermis, where we usually find melasma.
The mechanical action of needling breaks down the pigmented
tissue and with the support of bleaching ingredients forcing the
surrounding skin, via the healing mechanism, to make brand-new,
fresh skin cells that haven’t yet experienced the effects of the sun
and of hormones. As an additional bonus, skin needling also ramps
up collagen growth, improving overall skin texture and appearance.
What about needle depth?
This will depend on several factors – the location of the pigment
such as epidermal versus dermal, the patient’s propensity to create
more melanin as a result of inflammation, e.g. post-inflammatory
hyperpigmentation, which is a common risk with darker skin
types. Another consideration is the overall sensitivity of the skin
(someone prone to rosacea or hives, for instance, may require a
milder, shallower treatment).
That said, 0.5 to 1.00 millimetres are considered the most
effective microneedling depth. However, often you will need to
vary the needle depth across the face, based on the density of the
pigment that you are aiming to eliminate. You will find that you can
go deeper where the skin is denser, such as the cheeks, and lighter
under the eyes or nose.
By creating tiny injury zones or columns made during
microneedling allow the practitioner to funnel active ingredients
directly into areas of concern. This is considered the true magic of
microneedling for melasma. This practice is generally considered
safer even with patients of higher Fitzpatrick skin type of IV or V.
INGREDIENTS FOR USE
So, what ingredients are useful when combined with
microneedling in helping break down melasma pigment?
Dermatologists recommend vitamin A creams including tretinoin
that can be used as a stand-alone treatment or in combination
with other agents. Look also for ingredients with proven activity as
tyrosinase inhibitors. These include:
Most powerful: (these are mainly prescription use only)
• Hydroquinone
• Kojic Acid
• Resorcinol
• Hexylresorcinol
Moderate strength with also fewer side effects:
• Azelaic acid
• Licorice Extract (Glabridin, Glycyrrhiza glabra)
• Mulberry extract
APJ 31

energy and help repair skin cells.It also prevents the production of
melanin by:
• blocking the PAR-2 receptor
• reducing inflammation
Cysteine
Cysteine does not affect the conversion of tyrosine to L-DOPA
but works later in the pathway to push the melanin production
towards pheomelanin and away from eumelanin. Pheomelanin is
lighter than eumelanin so it makes the skin appear lighter when
cysteine is present.
Specialised serum formulations
You can also access serums with combination ingredients for a
stronger synergistic result.
• Retinol
• Arbutin
• Ellagic Acid
• Saururus chinensis (also called Asian Lizard’s tail plant)
These are weaker with very few side effects:
• Aloesin
• Flavonoids (including resveratrol)
• Oils such as Argan oil, Avocado oil, Borage seed oil, Evening
primrose oil and Rosehip oil.
• Vitamin C has weak tyrosinase inhibit, but it can help prevent
skin pigmentation in other ways, such as effects on the p53
pathway and its antioxidant capabilities.
Other ingredients include:
Glycolic acid
Glycolic acid does not inhibit tyrosinase. Instead, it lightens dark
spots by causing exfoliation. Glycolic acid is classified as an alpha
hydroxy acid (AHA). It is also an effective cleanser for some
uneven skin types because of its low pH.
Salicylic acid
Salicylic acid is not a tyrosinase inhibitor. It is an exfoliant
classified as a beta hydoxyacid (BHA). It can be a good treatment
for hyperpigmentation if combined with other skin lighteners. It is
a great choice for dark spots from acne. Salicylic acid also has antiinflammatory
effects.
Azelaic acid
In addition to being a tyrosinase inhibitor, azelaic acid also has
these properties:
• Good for rosacea
• Exfoliant
• Anti-inflammatory
• Low pH
However, it can cause stinging in sensitive skin.
Low-strength tricholacetic acid peels and Retinoid peels are also
recommended by dermatologists.
Please note: Only light peels should be used. The Australasian College
of Dermatologists does not recommend the use of medium level peels
because of their high potential for complications.
Niacinamide
Niacinamide is not a tyrosinase inhibitor, but it helps increase cell
ClinicalPro has advised us of a new effective serum for treating
melasma known as Melatocin Essence. Available in ampoules that
contain ingredients that block the melanin biosynthesis pathways,
preventing its activation and inhibiting melanin production.
Ingredients include Ascorbic Acid, Tranexamic Acid, Disodium
EDTA and Sodium Bicarbonate.
Tranexamic Acid
This is an interesting ingredient that has also seen incredible
success when used orally. Dr Dover points to a 2017 study with
561 patients, 89.7% of whom saw their melasma improve within
two months taking a daily dose of tranexamic acid. Dr Dover said
through his own experience with using oral tranexamic acid he
gained the best results he has ever seen. As a drug however, it has
a tendency towards clotting. Dr Sarkar is also a fan, but he is no
longer prescribing it oral use since the pandemic. His reasons are
that “several autopsy of patients who had severe COVID-19, they
found clots in almost every system.”
As tranexamic acid has demonstrated excellent results with the
treatment of melasma it is now consider safe when introduced
topically as part of a serum formula rather than taken orally, which
of course is only available when prescribed by a doctor.
Going back to microneedling, a recent study published in the
Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, reviewed of
459 melasma patients from seven different countries. Researchers
found that “topical therapy with microneedling improved melasma
severity with a large effect beyond eight weeks, and best results
were seen at 12 weeks.” According to Dr. Dover, a co-author
on the paper, the fine print attached to this procedure should
read: “Microneedling does help melasma when used with topical
therapy, but it is less effective when used on its own. This would
suggest that the use of appropriate serums is an essential element
for the success of your melasma results.
WHAT ABOUT INTERNAL SUPPLEMENTS?
In this issue of APJ you will also find an article presenting the
results of a clinical study that reviewed 34 Sydney-based healthy
women between the ages of 30-65 years old, with Fitzpatrick skin
types IV or V who were given RadianiX® Glutathione – a unique
sublingual supplement with a patented delivery system for optimal
bioavailability. Entity, is an Australian-based nutraceuticals
company that is leading the way in evidence-based formulations.
The results in skin improvement were very impressive. RadianiX®
Glutathione also perform well in skin lightening, making this
product an excellent addition to your pigmentation or melasma
treatment program.
IN CONCLUSION
While the above information has aimed at providing you with
some of the latest recommendations, bear in mind that there is
no forever cure, as this condition can so easily rebound. However,
good preventative measures, combined with the use of an
evidence-based combined approach will certainly allow you to
provide a noticeable level of improvement. APJ
Contact ClinicalPro 1800 628 999 | www.clinicalpro.com.au
Contact Entity 0421 433 660 | www.ixsyrinx.com
APJ 32

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APJ 33

MEMBER PROFILE
A SHINING
JEWEL
OF JOONDALUP
An interview with Melissa Barnard
Melissa Barnard is the director and clinic owner of Skintique, an
all-encompassing clinic located in Joondalup, Western Australia.
Joondalup is a suburb of Perth, approximately 26 kilometres north
of Perth’s central business district that acts as the primary urban
centre of Perth’s outer northern suburbs.
Skintique services the region through a diverse range of
treatments, including beauty services, advanced dermal
treatments and well as cosmetic medical procedures, such as
cosmetic injectables.
While Melissa holds qualifications in beauty therapy, she
has found her niche in business development and business
management as these are areas where she has substantial
experience and where her true strengths shine.
Despite challenging economic times Melissa has skilfully
developed a highly successful clinic that is client-centric,
delivering exceptional results in an environment where the client
experience is also meticulously prioritised. Her unique Skin Society
Membership ensures that her client gain extra value for their
investment and are rewarded for their loyalty. Essentially, creating
her own community that is supported by services that enhance
their appearance, confidence as well as their wellbeing.
As an APAN member, we interviewed Melissa to provide us with
insight into her operations that we believe will also inspire others.
APJ Q1: Melissa, what is your professional background and what
prompted you to establish your own clinic?
Business and marketing are my two main areas of expertise. One
of the businesses I’ve operated was a franchised gym for women.
I was employed about seven years ago as a business development
manager for a WA based franchised skin clinics and the
opportunity arose to purchase one of those clinics about a year
later. Then in 2019 I became independent from the franchise and
rebranded with my own unique brand, Skintique.
APJ Q2: As the owner of Skintique, what level of services do you
provide and how do you ensure your staff are well training and up
to date to ensure exceptional treatment outcomes?
Skintique provides a range of beauty treatments including waxing
and facials, more advanced facial treatments such as peels and
skin needling plus cosmetic injectables.
I like to create and foster a positive work environment with high
standards. I invest a lot in training and provide the team with
support which I believe is a valuable approach to support their
growth and ensure they can deliver high-quality services to our
clients by staying updated with the latest techniques and industry
advancements. I encourage the team to dedicate their own time
to professional development which shows a commitment to their
growth and expertise.
APJ 34

I conduct regular meetings with my team to align everyone
with the same standards and expectations which are essential
for maintaining consistency in service quality. I keep treatment
manuals updated to provide staff with a reliable resource that
ensures they consistently follow the correct protocols.
I value my team’s input and am also willing to assist them in
their professional development. I believe conducting quarterly
employee appraisals is an excellent way to assess my team’s
performance, identify areas of improvement, and provide support
where needed.
APJ Q3: In a highly competitive market, what is your point of
difference and competitive advantage that contributes to your
on-going success?
I place high value on providing excellent customer service, and
I work hard to establish close bonds with each of our clients, so
they know they are valued and special and they can rely on us to
adhere to their treatment and homecare regimens for the greatest
results for their skin.
Through social media, we communicate with our audience
frequently. We provide all nearby businesses discounts for
networking with us. We frequently run promotions, and we also
have a Skin Society membership that grants substantial discounts
on services and goods.
APJ Q4: What inspires you to continue to excel and what do you
love the most about your work?
I adore assisting others in experiencing joy and positivity from
their experience with us. I’ve always valued health and wellbeing,
and I also enjoy glamour and beauty, so this field appealed to me
very much.
APJ Q5: What are the most popular and in demand treatments
and from your feedback what do your clients value the most from
your services?
Cosmetic injectables have always played a significant role in my
business and is expanding, so we are constantly bringing new
cosmetic treatments into the clinic.
Our Skin Society membership is well-liked since it motivates clients
to see us frequently for treatments. After COVID, we revised our
menu to add a little additional fluff to our facials, which our clients
really enjoy in today’s high-stress, busy world. APJ
Skintique 08 9301 1023 | melissa.barrnard@skintique.com.au
www.skintique.com.au
APJ 35

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NAT11131006 Perform enzyme and chemical peels in a
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SHBBSKT003 Identify and control safety risks for
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NAT11131007 Apply skin tightening and body
contouring with HIFU and other techniques
NAT11131001 Provide dermal needling to treat skin
irregularities
SHBBSKT009 Provide light emitting diode skin
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75 $495 $295
50 $3,250 $1,400
35 $1,100 $450
100 $4,250 $1,800
80 $3,300 $1,800
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NAT11131002 Conduct non-invasive superficial skin
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NAT11131003 Provide cosmetic and tattoo removal
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NAT11131004 Perform cosmetic light-based therapies
for pigmentation and vascular irregularities
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35 $650 $390
100 $4,250 $1,400
200 $4,400 $1,900
180 $4,250 $1,800
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APJ 36

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APJ 37
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BUSINESS PROFILE
A man with
PURPOSE &
DEDICATION
An interview with Andy Heyne
Meeting Andy Heyne is like a breath of fresh air. Positive and
energetic, he exudes compassion that resonates from a life
experience of knowing what it feels like having lived a totally
defeated life and what it takes to achieve success …
lasting success.
There is something to be said about someone who can ‘show you
the way to victory’ having achieved it through their own personal
experience. There are many gurus that promise you a ‘formulabased’
success having never really lived it themselves, but there
is nothing as powerful as someone who has walked the talk. That
person is Andy. As the CEO of Millionaire Salon Coach, and owner
of The Skin Coaches, he has helped many businesses overcome
their own challenges and achieve lasting success.
Through this interview, it is our privilege to introduce Andy to you
as he shares his journey and some of his principles.
APJ Q1: Andy, please share with us your background and why
you have chosen to provide business support specifically to
businesses within the beauty and aesthetics industry?
As a fellow business owner in this industry, I know firsthand the
challenges and rewards of running a salon. Our journey started
with a modest spray tanning salon, which, eventually, together
with my amazing partner, has grown into a thriving multi-milliondollar
empire called ‘The Skin Coaches’.
We’ve had our fair share of setbacks, but our determination and
passion for helping others feel beautiful has always carried
us through.
I haven’t always been in the beauty industry. My earlier years were
filled with struggles: substance abuse, reckless behaviour, and a
negative mindset that held me back. Raised in a cramped caravan
with my loving mother, I didn’t have much in terms of material
comforts. However, these tough experiences taught me the value
of gratitude and the power of resilience.
It wasn’t until I made a conscious decision to turn my life around
and build great teams and connections with people that I found
my true calling in helping salon owners achieve their dreams. With
my partner, our wonderful children, and our successful salons,
I’ve built a life I’m proud of – and I want to help other businesses
achieve the same.
APJ Q2: How is your approach to business mentoring different,
and to what do you attribute your success?
My approach to mentoring focuses on the whole picture:
mindset, team dynamics, client relations, and business strategy
as all four are very important in supporting the whole process
towards success.
By equipping business owners with the tools to motivate their
staff, create a positive work environment, and implement ways to
better serve your clients, financial success will naturally follow.
My success in helping businesses achieve incredible results lies in
my passion in helping business owners first and foremost discover
their True Power to Choose the outcome they desire and deserve
and break free from any underlying limiting beliefs that may be
sabotaging their success.
Countless salon owners have seen amazing results after just a
few sessions with us, experiencing record-breaking revenue and a
newfound sense of clarity and direction.
In the past I’ve even managed a company with a $30 million annual
turnover, so I know what it takes to succeed in this industry. Apart
from my work with salons, I also devote my time to mentoring
disadvantaged youth, sharing valuable life lessons and helping
them build a successful future. A life of giving is always rewarding,
both in seeing others succeed and in living a life with purpose.
APJ Q3: From your experience, what is your biggest challenge that
is holding salon and clinic owners back in reaching the success
they want and in achieving financial independence?
I would have to say that I find many businesses stuck in a
state of post-pandemic fear that locks them into a position of
stagnation. This impediment paralyses them from taking the
necessary calculated risks towards change, so they remain stuck
in the past ways of doing business which no longer work. They
also stop believing in themselves. Today there is no shortage
of opportunities for success, they are just different from past
times. Another area they fail is in uncovering and identifying lost
opportunities within their current systems that when discovered
and put into action, can deliver substantial profits.
APJ 38

Countless salon owners have seen amazing results
after just a few sessions with us, experiencing
record-breaking revenue and a newfound sense
of clarity and direction.
APJ Q4: What are the most common mistakes that business
owners in the salon and clinic environment make when it
comes to sales?
This one I can talk about all day. I believe the most common
mistake is the misconception of what sales is actually about. It
is no longer the hard sell, old school style of sales. It is about
discovering the confidence to persuade. Most people get
intimidated with the first NO to their offer. When the NO is
actually a sign that they have not given the client enough value
for them to change their mind. I believe that price only becomes
an issue with the absence of value. If you can raise the value to
what they will invest in that is important to them, the No will more
easily become a YES.
Many people consider defeat at the first objection because they
are also fearful of rejection. By being persuaded that what they
are offering is of great value and communicating that with selfconfidence,
businesses can achieve a high level of success instead
of lost opportunities.
APJ Q5: Share with us an inspirational salon success story that
you have worked with and helped them achieve
their breakthrough?
There are so many... but here are just two that come to mind. A
salon with a couple of part-time staff was earning approximately
$3000 per week, they sought our help and when they
implemented our strategies within two months they
achieved $10,000 per week.
Another salon was selling approximately 2-3 treatment package
per week. With our training she was able to change this to 5-7
packages per day. It is amazing how the right approach can make
business growth so much easier.
APJ Q6: When it comes to financial independence what advice
would you give a salon or clinic owner?
I believe every person is different, so they need to map out
their own future direction that will reflect what is important to
them. I usually start by asking them how they would like to see
themselves in the future? What do they need to support their
current needs, family, mortgages, etc. They then need to start
planning for their future when they retire. How do they want to
spend their life. We then review how they can grow their income.
Review financial literature and investigate different ways to
generate more income. What can they do to achieve the wealth
they will need to support their life. For this process to succeed
they will need to also examine their self-believe and identify if
something is holding them back, as this could sabotage the whole
process of believing that they deserve to have a life that is right for
them and that with the right strategy they can achieve it.
If you wish to transform your business and unlock its full
potential, book a free introductory consultation with Andy and
discover if his coaching approach is the right fit for you. You have
nothing to lose and everything to gain. APJ
Ph: 0425 569 655
www.millionairesaloncoach.com
APJ 39

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Adult stem cells are found in most adult tissue and are used by the body for growth,
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reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. This incredible ingredient is also found
in NeoGenesis’ Booster serum to help enhance the skin’s rejuvenation properties. APJ
To place an order - Borka Buseska: 1300 799 415
Borka@actitraining.com.au
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education@gaywardle.com
APJ 40

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neogenesispro.com.au | info@neogenesispro.com.au APJ 41

BUSINESS PROFILE
KIRSTIE
FITZPATRICK
A rising star in the competitive
world of Mass Media
Kirstie Fitzpatrick is a talented new-generation journalist
and a rising star as a TV presenter based in Canberra. She is
comfortable with all media platforms and has a real passion for
telling stories and informing people about current issues and
current affairs.
Kirstie has a purpose-driven ambition to captures issues that
matter and allow her voice to make a difference in the world. In
recent times she entered the world of dermal therapies as a result
of her own experience with skin cancer and recently graduated
with an Associate Degree in Applied Health Science (Dermal
Therapies).
Through an interview with APJ, Kirstie shares her journey and
offers some valuable advice in achieving communication success
through social media platforms.
APJ Q1: Kirstie, congratulations on graduating with an Associate
Degree in Applied Health Science (Dermal Therapies) from the
Australasian College of Health and Wellness, what compelled you
to undertake this study?
Kirstie: I was diagnosed with a rare type of skin cancer when I
was 19 years old which thrust me into the world of skin and skin
diseases and a desire to find out what was going on in my own
body. I’ve had about 20 lesions removed since then – so I’ve
been dealing with changes to my skin my entire adult life, which
made me want to better understand clinical terminology, and best
practice for recovery and treatment of things like scarring. Over
the years, my interest in skin led to a love of skin and I wanted to
learn more about skin ingredients and cosmetic chemistry, as well
as how skin treatments work and the amazing role of technology
in aesthetics.
APJ Q2: You are also the new Ambassador for the Skin Cancer
College Australasia, how incredible! What is your role as
Ambassador and what do you wish to contribute through
this role?
Kirstie: I’m incredibly grateful to be the new Ambassador for the
Skin Cancer College Australasia. My goal is to raise awareness
about the importance of skin checks, demystify the myths around
skin cancer being an older person’s disease or a summer disease,
and also challenge how and why we worship the sun. I’m also
hoping to help skin cancer practitioners re-think the way they
deliver often complex information to scared and overwhelmed
patients - so there is clearer but also more widespread knowledge
and education about skin cancer.
APJ Q3: You also hold a Bachelor of Communications (Journalism)
and currently you are a television presenter for the 7 Network.
Can you share with us how audience engagement has changed
over the past decade, or even more recently, since the pandemic?
Kirstie: The way we communicate, both personally and
professionally has changed significantly in recent years. Audience
is a key cornerstone of good communication – understanding
what your audience wants to know and what’s in their best
interest. Much of the news we see on social media is still an
extension of what’s been published or broadcast through more
traditional media and in my experience as a journalist, traditional
media remains a trustworthy source of news, but our tools of
communication are changing. The rise of social media has given
that audience more ways to engage, participate in, and have an
opinion on things happening around them – and if consumers
are engaging, they’re paying attention. As a result, we are also
seeing audiences develop a personal connection to a business or
a public figure that they like, follow or befriend. We’re also seeing
the way audiences communicate amongst themselves change.
Word of mouth is a powerful tool – but an extension to that is
now a recommendation on Facebook, or a comment and tag on
Instagram. To engage with our audience - we have to
be everywhere.
APJ Q4: As you now have expertise in both Journalism and
Aesthetics, what advice would you give someone within our
industry who is trying to increase engagement through their
writing, with say a blog or a podcast?
Kirstie: No matter whether you’re a business owner, a practitioner
or an educator in the aesthetics industry, you have many tools to
boost engagement. First, credibility – make a point of highlighting
your education or expertise to let your audience know why you’re
trustworthy and worth listening to. Sing your own praises. Second,
find a point of difference. Audiences can become fatigued with
too much of the same thing so work out what makes you unique.
Are you filling a gap in the market? Are you talking about or
writing about something no one else is? Are you offering a service
that hasn’t been seen before? Third, find your own voice. In the
APJ 42

media industry, we talk about being ourselves, just a little more
polished. It’s much the same when trying to grow engagement
for businesses or industries. Remain authentic. Lastly, be the
spokesperson. You are often going to be at the forefront of
changes happening within your industry, and facing the impact
of what those changes may be. Consider putting yourself in the
driver’s seat to offer an insight or perspective on the changes
around you.
APJ Q5: When it comes to designing a website, there is so much
emphasis on the visual imagery, and often the written content
is dull and uninspiring? As a journalist can you provide some
valuable tips on how to achieve a professional yet engaging
written content?
Kirstie: Professional, yet engaging written content is all about
the language you use. Knowing your audience doesn’t just mean
advertising products they want or treatments that are popular – it
means talking to clients in their language and explaining things in
a way they will understand. We know word of mouth is such an
important tool – but it also relies on people truly understanding
what they’re talking about and what to recommend.
Keep it simple.
APJ Q6: What are your professional aspirations and how would
you like to use both your skills in supporting businesses within the
salon and clinic environment?
Kirstie: As a journalist, I’m not only passionate about telling
stories, but also delivering information in a way that can be easily
understood and reach the largest audience. In the aesthetics
industry, that might be by supporting busy business owners
and industry professionals by writing content, editing content,
breaking things down into layman’s terms, or sprucing them up
to target a specific audience. It may be interviewing companies
about a new device or product to get the word out or helping
business professionals with media training and interview skills. The
aesthetics industry is ever-changing and often based on scientific
studies or new developments. There is so much information
but not a lot of ways to disseminate that information to suit
and appeal to the everyday consumer. But that’s where I come
in – as both a journalist, but also a consumer, I feel there is a real
opportunity to break down the science, to get an expert opinion or
to demystify some common myths.
We wish Kirstie every success in her career and we plan to
continue to work with her also within our industry. We are
delighted to also feature her as a speaker at the online segment
of the APAN Aesthetics Conference. APJ
If you wish to contact Kirstie Fitzpatrick her details are:
Ph: 0401 157 845
E: kirstie.fitzpatrick@hotmail.com.
I’m incredibly grateful to be the new Ambassador
for the Skin Cancer College Australasia. My goal is to
raise awareness about the importance of skin checks,
demystify the myths around skin cancer being an
older person’s disease or a summer disease, and also
challenge how and why we worship the sun.
APJ 43

REGULATIONS
COSMETIC
TATTOO
PIGMENTS REGULATIONS -
A NATIONAL & INTERNATIONAL UNDERTAKING
A Report presented by Robert McGowan and Tina Viney
If you can buy it, it must be safe. True or false? Unfortunately,
when it comes to cosmetic (and body art) tattoo pigments (“inks”
if you prefer), that statement is false. So, who checks that the
ingredients in cosmetic tattoo pigments are safe? In Australia,
unless the supplier or the technician specifically review the
individual ingredients, then usually no one checks that they are
safe. Surprising, but true.
In this report, Robert McGowan and Tina Viney present an update
on the regulatory process within Australia and why continuing to
pursue for a regulatory outcome is of utmost importance and in
the best interest of both practitioner and consumer safety.
They also discuss the far-reaching collaboration with European
research, regulatory and standards organisations as tattoo
pigment safety has become a serious global concern.
Cosmetic tattoo pigments are already regulated, but not yet in
Australia. At least, not directly. In January 2021 new regulations
came into effect in the European Union (27 countries), replacing
various guidelines that had been in place since 2003. These
regulations addressed the findings that many pigment ingredients
were found to be toxic and/or carcinogenic. Any brands that are
selling in and into Europe would have to comply with the new
regulations by January 2022, if they wanted to continue to sell
across Europe.
This was a huge change for permanent makeup pigment brands,
leading some to have to adjust their formulation and others
having to restrict sale into the EU if they wanted to maintain their
existing range/s. Only a small portion of pigment brands avoided
formulation changes, with some notable brands that were (and
are) compliant being Artliner, KB Pro and Nouveau Contour.
Some brands had to label their products “Not for sale in the EU”,
effectively meaning they are not compliant with the new EU
regulations.
The effects of the new regulations are still working their way
through the supply process. The new EU regulations included the
existing EU regulations for cosmetic products, meaning a total of
4,300 chemicals became regulated ingredients in cosmetic tattoo
pigments. Laboratories had to work out how they were going to
analyse all these ingredients cost-effectively, whilst manufacturers
had to change formulations or get better quality ingredients.
So, what triggered the EU to go to all this trouble, spending
millions of euros on research, consultation and drafting and redrafting
regulations? Rising popularity for one. At least 12% of
Europeans have a tattoo, and it is estimated that in the 18 to 35
age group, that figure doubles to around 24% (European Chemicals
Agency). With a total population of over 750 million, that is at
least 90 million people with a tattoo. Now, what if a significant
proportion of those tattoos cause adverse health effects? The
human and financial consequences would be disastrous.
APJ 44
WHY ARE THERE TOXIC CHEMICALS IN PIGMENTS?
Tattoos in various forms have been around for thousands of years.
Why would there suddenly be a problem? The ingredients of what
is placed in the skin have changed - dramatically.
Until relatively recently, the pigments were ochres; iron oxides
(dull yellows, browns, reds and black), or sometimes other metal
oxides such as copper (green). For a while, toxic metals such as
lead were used, but they disappeared as they became known as
poisons.
Metal oxides were mainly used until around 2000, when the
popularity of tattooing began to grow dramatically. A few years
later, cosmetic tattooing followed suit. Manufacturers of pigments
were faced with supply challenges, and a commercial opportunity.
Humble and benign ingredients such as iron oxides were replaced
by industrial organic (carbon-based) chemicals, produced in bulk
for a huge range of applications such as paints, copier toner,
plastics and so on. Unfortunately, a lot of these are based on such
chemicals as azo dyes, which often contain carcinogenic amines.
Of course, some manufacturers were (and are) very careful about
what they used, and some were not.
The temptation to use potentially toxic and carcinogenic
ingredients is easy to understand. The chemicals are cheap,
they come in vivid colours, and the skin works hard to retain the
pigment rather than let the toxins migrate into the rest of the
body. There were no regulations or consumer protection laws then
to prevent the use of such ingredients for tattooing.
WHERE DO THE CHEMICALS COME FROM?
The EU moved quickly to start assessing and addressing the risks
from pigment ingredients. In the United States, where a lot of
pigments are manufactured, the Food & Drug Administration
stated that no inks (pigments) were approved for tattooing, and
still does.
In Australia, where there are still no pigment manufacturers, the
issue did not get any visible recognition until 2017. Meanwhile,
the range of colours and brands and choices ‘exploded’. Enter
China. The world has become almost dependent on China for the
supply of low-cost products. Once known for poor quality, China
now produces huge quantities of well-made products that meet

consumer expectations, and that includes both the raw chemicals
and finished pigments for all forms of tattooing. But what is in
them? They look right, but appearance tells you nothing about
ingredients.
China is now the world’s largest producer and supplier of organic
colour colourants, particularly red and yellow azo dyes. India is
the largest producer and supplier of pthalocyanine-based (organic)
colourants (blues and greens) (S&P Global, Nov 2022). If you are
using tattoo pigments, it is likely that the raw ingredients are
supplied from China, India, or possibly the USA.
There are two aspects of risks with pigments for use in tattooing.
The selection of the raw ingredients, and the purity of that raw
ingredient. A lot of the EU regulations for tattoo pigments relate
to contaminants that are in the raw ingredients. As an example,
black pigments are usually made from carbon black, and the
manufacturing of this usually produces polycyclic aromatic
hydrocarbons (PAHs), which are carcinogenic. These impurities
need to be minimised or removed. Manufacturing methods and
standards vary enormously. If the purity standard to be met is
very stringent, then the cost to manufacture increases, a lot. If
two products look exactly the same and there are no checks on
the composition by a regulator, which is a manufacturer likely to
choose, the cheap one or the one that costs more than ten times
as much?
WHAT IS THE SITUATION IN AUSTRALIA?
In Australia, there are currently no regulations directly related
to tattoo pigments. The Poisons Standard, which gets updated
regularly (last update February 2023), covers many of the
chemicals in tattoo pigments, but the standards rely on state and
territory legislation to be implemented. Currently the state and
territory laws are silent on tattoo pigments.
The importation of chemicals to Australia is controlled by the
AICIS (Australian Industrial Chemicals Introduction Scheme),
formerly NICNAS. In 2016, 2017 and 2018 what was then
NICNAS released papers on the “Characterisation of tattoo inks
used in Australia” and the “Investigation of the composition and
use of permanent make-up (PMU) inks in Australia”. The AICIS
recommended that the state and territory governments consider
compulsory training for PMU artists and monitor the compliance
of the labelling and use of PMU inks with the Poisons Standards
and WHS (workplace health & safety) regulations. In 2019 the
AICIS requested that Queensland Health develop regulations for
tattoo pigments, potentially as a test case for other states and
territories.
the process could likely take two years. Updates on this process
were provided in previous articles within APJ, in APAN newsletters
and conferences.
To summarise a very long story, the proposed regulations were
to cover both the cosmetic tattoo and body art industries. Drafts
were reviewed and progress was made until potential penalties for
non-compliance with the regulations were introduced in a draft
bill before the Queensland parliament. The body art industry then
mounted a huge media campaign to stop the legislation, and the
politicians got ‘cold feet’.
Queensland Health has advised APAN that the matter is now
being dealt with at a national level in association with the
Commonwealth Government in line with the objective to move
all health regulations towards nationally uniform standards for all
states and territories. We believe this is a good move, as having
individual states implement their own regulations and standards
makes it an administrative nightmare for us as a national body
in connecting with individual state government department and
their regulatory review processes. Furthermore, state-by-state
regulations also pose a problem with workforce mobility, as
individuals who may be moving from one state to another are
confronted with different standards and educational requirements.
We can confirm that the issue of pigment regulation has now been
delegated to the Therapeutic Goods Administration. The TGA
is part of the Health Products Regulation Group of the federal
Department of Health. This is a very significant change, and in
some senses surprising as tattoo pigment would not normally
be considered a therapeutic good. However, the product is
introduced into the skin and if it does not comply with all the
requirements of the Poisons Standard then it is not considered a
cosmetic product, so the therapeutic good regulations probably
apply. This change of approach has far-reaching implications, with
the potential for pigments that do not comply with the Poisons
REGULATION IN AUSTRALIA
Queensland Health requested a meeting with APAN in 2019 to
discuss the implementation of regulations within three months.
APAN advised that industry consultation would be essential, and
APJ 45

INTERNATIONAL COMMISSION FOR TATTOO INKS CONVENED
AT THE FEDERAL INSTITUTE FOR RISK MANAGEMENT
06/2023, 24.03.2023
Press release for BfR and BMUV. New BfR Commission advises on
questions concerning the composition of tattoo inks and the assessment
of health risks. The Commission for Tattoo Inks is composed of experts
from different disciplines and fields of activity. These include the fields of
medicine, toxicology, chemistry, hygiene and manufacturing companies
of tattoo inks. The commission, which met last week (23 March 2023)
for its first working session, will advise the Federal Institute for Risk
Assessment (BfR) on issues relating to the composition of tattoo inks and
their toxicological testing and evaluation. With the establishment of this
commission the spectrum of existing commissions at the BfR is expanded
by another important focus.
BFR COMMITTEE FOR TATTOO INKS
The new International BfR commission for tattoo inks advises the BfR
on relevant questions about tattoo inks and provides support with
expert knowledge. The first meeting took place March 23, 2023.
Task of the BfR Committee for Tattoo Inks
The task of the BfR Committee for Tattoo Inks is to provide expert
advice to the BfR in its tasks regarding the safety of tattoo inks and
permanent makeup.
It advises the BfR on matters regarding the composition of tattoo inks,
their analysis and the manufacturing processes. Moreover, it gives the
BfR advice on matters regarding the toxicological analysis of tattoo ink
pigments. To do this, it evaluates the suitability of testing guidelines
and advises on their further and new development.
The Committee will provide the BfR with scientific expertise regarding
further measures required for a comprehensive assessment regarding
further measures required for a comprehensive assessment of the
health risks posed by tattoo inks, with the objective of reducing risk
to human health in line with the latest technology.
Standard needing to go through the TGA approval process to be
able to be sold. The process is expensive, complex, and timeconsuming,
with a significant risk of not being successful.
APAN JOINS THE EUROPEAN SOCIETY OF TATTOO AND
PIGMENT RESEARCH (ESTP)
Despite the current disruptions APAN remains committed to the
Australian regulatory process as we have a duty of care to not just
cosmetic tattooists and the safety of the public, but also the safety
of laser practitioners who are experiencing the risks associated
with the laser tattoo removal process, where pigment plums are
contaminated with potential toxic and carcinogens.
In order to support the Australian regulatory process APAN has
been liaising with the European Society of Tattoo and Pigment
Research (ESTP). In 2019 Tina Viney was invited to speak at
the 5th World Congress on Tattoo and Pigment Research in the
Netherlands and present an update on the Australian activities,
position, and challenges on the issue of the regulation of tattoo
pigments and inks. Europe is definitely the major source of
research data and several countries in the EU have already
implemented pigment regulations. As such APAN decided to join
as an ESTP member.
Meanwhile in Europe, the new regulations were implemented
despite opposition from parts of the body art industry. In Europe
there is a lot of focus on the issues related to pigment safety, by
researchers, regulators and professional associations. Probably the
leading research organisation in this area is the German federal
institute for risk assessment (more correctly the Bundesinstitut fűr
Riskobewertung, and more easily, the BfR).
The BfR conducts research on a wide range of consumer safety
issues, including food, chemicals, cosmetics, textiles, and so on.
While the BfR is not a regulator, it is highly respected globally for
its extensive research and assessment of standards development.
as well as by the German authorities who normally adopt their
recommendations, and other European countries look to Germany
and the BfR to provide guidance.
APAN ACCEPTED AS A MEMBER OF THE GERMAN
FEDERATION AND COMMISSION FOR TATTOO INKS
The BfR has been conducting a lot of research on tattoo pigment
safety, and in 2022 decided to form the Commission for Tattoo Inks.
Applications for participants were invited worldwide, including
a direct invitation to APAN as we were now members of ESTP
and following Tina’s presentation at the 2021 Congress. We were
happy to nominate Robert McGowan for the BfR commission.
Robert is a valued member of the APAN National Advisory
Committee (Academic and Scientific Division) and works closely
with APAN as our advisor on pigment chemistry and safety as
well as actively representing us through the regulatory review
working groups. Robert was nominated by APAN for the BfR
commission, and he was accepted in late 2022. This is a three-year
appointment. The first meeting of the commission took place on
23 March this year, and three sub-committees were formed:
• Analytics – testing methods
• Toxicology – testing methods
• Technology & Hygiene
Robert was also nominated and was accepted for the Technology
& Hygiene working group. The terms of reference for these subcommittees
are now being developed. It is also quite likely that
the AICIS (Australian Industrial Chemicals Introduction Scheme)
will become involved. It is a remarkable opportunity to work with
and learn from some of the most knowledgeable people in the
industry on pigment chemistry and safety. Commission members
include representatives for the World Health Organisation, US
FDA, industry representatives such as a toxicology specialist from
L’Oreal (the leading beauty products manufacturer in the world
at US$35B a year), together with doctors and professors from
academic institutes from across Europe.
WORKING TOWARDS A SAFER INDUSTRY
For an APAN representative to be working at this level for our
industry is a measure of the commitment to ensuring the cosmetic
tattoo industry in Australia has a sustainable future. Understanding
and managing risks in our industry is essential to making sure
clients, technicians and businesses stay safe, and the regulation
required to keep everyone safe is sensible and manageable. We
look forward to keeping you updated on our exciting involvement
with some of the top specialists in Europe and internationally.
Our sincere thanks to Robert McGowan for his invaluable
and extensive contribution to both research and international
standards development. His extensive knowledge is
acknowledged both nationally and internationally. We are
grateful for his support and contribution to this process. APJ
APJ 46

APAN Joins the Australian Cyber Security
Centre (ACSC) Partnership Program
With the increase in Cybercrime the risks for every business are high.
Hackers are constantly becoming more sophisticated on how they can access your
accounts and your data. This is contributing to great concern to businesses and a
cause of anxiety, pain and financial losses to businesses.
Always committed to protecting our members and the industry, APAN approached
the Australian Cyber Security Centre (ACSC), the government’s leading national body
responsible for cyber protection.
We have secured a senior authority to speak at the APAN Aesthetic Conference,
to bring the industry up to date with how they can protect their intellectual property,
financial accounts and database from cybercrime.
We are also delighted to be officially invited by ASCS to become a partner in the ACSC
Partnership program. This will allow us to provide our members with additional support
in this area. Through this partnership we will be provided with resources and updates
that we can support and protect our members and their businesses.
APAN is committed to your safety.

MENTAL WELLBEING
WHY MENTAL
FITNESS
AND NOT MENTAL HEALTH
Simon Sinek challenged
the whole notion of
“mental health” with
a better approach.
Sinek is an author and inspirational speaker. While always
positive, he is also quick to question and challenge business and
mental approaches that he believes are outdated and no
longer effective.
He is a proponent of a new concept of thinking that digs deeper
to understand and embrace the wellbeing of others rather than
pursuing success at any cost. He has developed his professional
life to help advance a vision of the world that does not yet exist.
A world in which the vast majority of people wake up every single
morning inspired, feel safe wherever they are and end the day
fulfilled by the work that they do.
PERPETUATING THE DISEASE STATE
In discussing the issue of mental health, he raised an issue as
to why he believes that the term Mental Health is doing us a
disservice. Here is what he says:
“I am not going to refer to mental health anymore. I am going to stop
using the term mental health, instead I am going to use the term
mental fitness. Why?
Because it speaks to a process, but it also speaks to good days
and bad days.
When I engage in my own physical fitness, and I start to get a little fitter,
I do go through a bit of a struggle, but I keep pushing through. I also
realise that when I am physically fit, that I am actually able to manage
difficult things better.
I know that I can lift heavier weights and I know that I can push myself
through the pain.
I know that I can run a longer distance, and because I am physically
fitter. I know I can overcome the physical pain and because I am fitter,
I know I will not damage my body.
Mental fitness is the preferred term, rather than mental health. The
term mental health is actually doing us a disservice because we are
perpetuating the disease state by calling it mental health”.
MENTAL HYGIENE AND BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT
We could agree more with Simon Sinek.
At the beginning of 2020 APAN developed a program that we
called MENTAL HYGIENE & BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT. The
objective of this program was to help businesses gain specific
skills through weekly activities that support mental and emotional
wellbeing and productivity in the workplace. In other words, this
program is preventative of mental health issues developing.
The focus of this program was to create a workplace environment
that introduces measures that build resilience toward overcoming
mental and emotional issues and thus, protect businesses from
the proliferation of mental health issues in the workplace.
We agree that the term “mental health” assumes that you are sick
in need of health care, which can perpetuate the concept that
someone is not well.
Dr Caroline Leaf, a brilliant and prolific communications
pathologist and cognitive neuroscientist who has spent over 30
years studying the mind-brain connection has this to say about
taking control of our mental wellbeing.
“Throughout our lives, we will from time to time go through moments
of emotional and mental challenges, however, by taking control of our
thoughts and through directed mind input (neuroplasticity), we can
change the brain and a live productive and successful life.”
A strong proponent of neuroplasticity, Dr Leaf has developed a
program, which she discusses in her book “Cleaning Up your Mental
Mess”. She offers five simple steps to reduce anxiety, stress, and
toxic thinking. You can access her book from Amazon.
Simon Sinek is known
globally for his
inspirational approach
to life and business,
often described as
“a visionary thinker and
a rare intellect.”
While we acknowledge that mental health issues do exist and we
need to be mindful and compassionate with situations that may
require the support and services of a mental health professional,
we do also agree with Dr Leaf that often we just need to give a
helping hand to someone who is experiencing some challenges. It
is amazing, the incredible benefit that kindness and compassion
can help support someone towards a quick recovery.
Furthermore, a program that aims to create a happy and
supportive environment can prove to be a highly effective
preventative measure toward maintaining mental fitness for both
the individual’s wellbeing, as well as their productivity. APJ
You can access APAN’s Mental Hygiene and Business Development program
by visiting https://apanetwork.com/resources/mental-hygiene-businessdevelopment
Please also view the video on that page as it will provide further
information on this program.
APJ 48

APJ 49

INGREDIENT SCIENCE
BLACKBERRIES
AND THEIR POWERFUL DISEASE
PREVENTION AND ANTI-AGEING
CONSTITUENTS
Jacine Greenwood-Drummond
Blackberries are a superfood with beneficial vitamins, minerals,
fibre and antioxidants. Despite the fact that they are low in
carbs, fat and in calories, studies confirm that blackberries have
powerful compounds that fight against skin ageing and disease.
In this article Jacine Greenwood-Drummond presents research
findings on the humble blackberry and the amazing ways that
it has been proven to inhibit the activity of MMPs with their
implications against skin ageing and disease.
Blackberry (Rubus fruticosus) is a widely cultivated fruit with a
variety of health benefits, including anti-inflammatory, antioxidant,
and anti-cancer properties. In recent years, blackberry leaf
extract has gained attention for its potential to inhibit matrix
metalloproteinases (MMPs), which play a critical role in the
degradation of extracellular matrix (ECM) components in various
diseases, including cancer and skin ageing.
Matrix metalloproteinases are a family of zinc-dependent
endopeptidases that are involved in the degradation of ECM
components, including collagen, elastin, and gelatin. These
enzymes are produced by various cell types, including fibroblasts,
macrophages, and endothelial cells, and are regulated by
cytokines, growth factors, and other signaling molecules. MMPs
are involved in a variety of physiological processes, including
tissue remodeling, wound healing, and angiogenesis. However,
dysregulation of MMPs has been implicated in the pathogenesis of
several diseases, including skin ageing.
SKIN AGEING AND THE ROLE OF MMPs
The role of MMPs in skin ageing has been extensively studied,
and several studies have shown that MMP activity increases with
age, leading to the degradation of collagen and elastin, which are
critical components of the skin’s ECM. This degradation results in
the loss of skin elasticity and firmness, leading to the development
of wrinkles and sagging skin.
EVIDENCE IN THE LITERATURE
Blackberry leaf extract has been shown to inhibit MMP activity in
vitro and in vivo. In one study, blackberry leaf extract was found
to significantly inhibit MMP-1 and MMP-2 activity in human
skin fibroblasts, which are key enzymes involved in collagen
degradation. The researchers suggested that blackberry leaf
extract may have potential as an anti-ageing agent by inhibiting
MMP activity and protecting collagen from degradation.
Another study found that blackberry leaf extract inhibited MMP-9
activity in human breast cancer cells, leading to a decrease in cell
invasion and migration. The researchers suggested that blackberry
leaf extract may have potential as an adjuvant therapy for breast
cancer by inhibiting MMP activity and reducing cancer cell
invasion and migration.
The mechanism by which blackberry leaf extract inhibits MMP
activity is not fully understood, but several studies have suggested
that it may be due to the presence of polyphenols and other
bioactive compounds in the extract. Polyphenols are known for
their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties and have been
shown to inhibit MMP activity in various cell types. One study
found that ellagic acid, a polyphenol found in blackberry leaves,
inhibited MMP-1 and MMP-3 activity in human skin fibroblasts.
In addition to its MMP-inhibiting properties, blackberry leaf
extract has other potential benefits for skin health. It has been
shown to have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties,
which can help protect skin cells from oxidative stress and
inflammation. Blackberry leaf extract has also been shown to have
photoprotective properties, which can help protect skin from
UV-induced damage
IN CONCLUSION
In summary of the studies, blackberry leaf extract has been
shown to inhibit MMP activity in vitro and in vivo, which may
have potential as an anti-ageing and anti-cancer agent. Further
studies are needed to fully understand the mechanism by which
blackberry leaf extract inhibits MMP activity and to determine
its potential therapeutic applications. However, these findings
suggest that blackberry leaf extract may be a promising natural
ingredient for the development of skincare products and
cancer therapeutics. APJ
APJ 50

APJ 43

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APJ 52

ISSADA OVERNIGHT Hydrating Masque
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APJ 53

HERBAL REMEDIES
ARNICA:
POTENTIAL MECHANISMS
AND ADVERSE EFFECTS
Tina Viney
Probably one of the most studied plants in herbal medicine is
the Arnica plant. Renowned for its ability to help relieve pain,
swelling and bruising, it is worthwhile reviewing its benefits,
especially in helping minimise inflammation and supporting skin
that has undergone more invasive procedures. While initially, it
was used based on anecdotal evidence of its efficacy, in more
recent years several studies have investigated its benefits,
providing us with additional evidence of how it can be used. So,
let’s review arnica more closely.
BACKGROUND INFORMATION
Arnica is basically a perennial herb belonging to the sunflower
(Asteraceae) family. It is native to the mountains of Europe and
Siberia. The scientific name for arnica is Arnica Montana. However,
it is also known as Mountain tobacco, Leopard’s bane, Wolf’s bane,
as well as Mountain arnica.
The plant grows to a height of 1 to 2 feet and produces yelloworange
flowers resembling daisies. It possesses bright green
leaves with the upper leaves toothed and slightly hairy while the
APJ 54

lower leaves have rounded tips. The stalks are round, fleshy, and
hairy. The yellow-orange flowers of this herb have the medicinal
properties.
Today, arnica is extensively cultivated for medicinal purposes in
several areas of Europe and North America. It has been used in
medicine since the 1500s and is commercially available in the form
of topical creams, ointments, pills, tinctures and even injections.
Arnica is also available as an oil, which is used for
topical treatments.
Direct intake of arnica by mouth is associated with serious side
effects, but in homeopathic medicine it is used in a diluted form
which is not considered harmful.
There are several species of arnica of which Arnica Montana and
Arnica Chamissonis are used in anti-inflammatory preparations.
Both species look similar except that Arnica Chamissonis has
somewhat smaller flowers and can be extremely toxic even in very
low doses when ingested, for this reason Arnica Montana is the
most popular.
Arnica Montana is the most frequently used homeopathic
medicine for bruises. It can be topically applied in the form of an
ointment or cream to acutely bruised area with intact skin. Arnica
Montana can be given orally or sublingually in homeopathic doses
for the following situations:
• Head trauma, including concussions.
• Bruising to the periorbital tissues.
• Postsurgical trauma with bruising and oedema.
• Bruising from labour and delivery (can be given to mother
and/or baby externally only.
• After dental procedures.
• Bruising of extremities.
• Sore muscles after overexertion.
Arnica Montana has also been successful used in cases where a
bruise sustained long ago that has never fully healed.
HOMEOPATHIC REMEDY
Arnica Montana has been used for centuries in the homeopathic
system of medicine for the treatment of 66 pathological
conditions, frequently contusions, wounds, rheumatism and
inflammation.
According to the European Pharmacopeia (1809), Arnica Montana
tincture is produced from the arnica flowers with 0.04%
sesquiterpene lactones expressed as dihydrohelenalin tiglate. The
tincture contains one part of the drug in 10 parts of ethanol [60%
(V/V) to 70% (V/V)].
According to the European Union herbal preparations containing
A. Montana are tincture (1:10) extracted with ethanol 70% (V/V),
tincture (1:5) extracted with ethanol 60% (V/V) and liquid extract
(1:20) extracted with ethanol 50% m/m, mainly of flowers.
Tincture is dried by evaporation, and the extract is incorporated in
numerous herbal drug products.
What are the benefits of arnica and what are they attributed to?
While arnica is predominantly known for its ability to sooth pain,
swelling and bruising in 2017 a research review investigating
arnica plant extract identify several properties including:
• antibacterial
• antifungal
• anti-inflammatory
• antioxidant
• antitumor
• immunomodulatory
Various parts of the plant were also identified to contain a rich
source of beneficial chemical compounds such as:
APJ 55

• flavonoids
• carotenoids
• essential oils
• diterpenes,
• phenolic acids
• oligosaccharides,
These investigations provided evidence as to the reasons why
arnica can deliver benefits as a medicinal herb, and are now
contributing to the pursuit of further studies.
Dosing
While applied topical arnica provides many benefits however, as
we have already mentioned, Arnica is still classified as an unsafe
herb by both the USA’s FDA as well as the TGA in Australia for
oral consumption, because of its toxicity and should not be
administered orally or applied to broken skin where absorption
can occur.
However, when used topically in the recommended manner, it can
provide relief for bruises, pain and swelling. For these purposes,
today arnica is available in gel form, lotions and pain patches.
ARNICA BENEFITS FOR THE SKIN
Arnica is used extensively for various skin conditions as its
anti-inflammatory properties can help calm and soon various
conditions form pain to bruising.
Eczema
Studies confirm that arnica can be applied topically to calm skin
conditions such as eczema, itchiness and irritated skin especially if
it is manifesting inflammation and swelling.
Skin nourishment
Arnica Montana flowers contain sesquiterpene lactones,
flavonoids, carbonic acid, coumarins and volatile oils, all of
which are beneficial for the skin. A sesquiterpene lactone,
called helenalin, is the main restorative compound in Arnica
Montana, which along with flavonoid, helps soothe and renew
the skin after exposure to stress. The antibacterial, antiseptic
and anti-inflammatory properties of this herb help in preventing
inflammatory skin disorders. They also accelerate the healing
process by stimulating the formation of granular tissues. Arnica for
skin care can effectively heal bruises, sunburns, minor burns and
superficial phlebitis.
Treatment of stretch marks
Topically rubbing arnica extracts reduces the appearance of
pregnancy-related stretch marks when applied at least
four times a day.
Healing qualities
Arnica has been used in topical preparations for healing bruises,
muscle aches, superficial phlebitis, wounds and swelling due to
insect bites and fractures. It can be used as a mouthwash or gargle
for treating sore throat and infections. However, any internal used
must be taken under the direction of an appropriately qualified
medical or healthcare professional.
Arnica is also effective in healing burns. It improves blood
circulation by stimulating white blood cell activity, decreasing the
amount of healing time and reducing inflammation.
Treatment of post-surgery pain
A study conducted in 2007 observed that taking a homeopathic
dilution of arnica resulted in a decrease in pain in patients whose
tonsils were removed. Similarly, taking a homeopathic dilution of
arnica and topical application of arnica ointment reduces postsurgery
pain in patients undergoing surgery for carpel
tunnel syndrome.
Treatment of bruises and black eyes/post-surgery swelling
Arnica is effective in reducing the appearance of bruises. It is
therefore used post-operatively after blepharoplasty to help
soothe the swelling and bruising. Topical application of arnica
extract on bruises and black eyes can significantly improve
the condition. Infusions from arnica plant are effective in the
treatment of dark nails caused due to injuries from heavy objects.
A study conducted in 2006 has proved that intake of homeopathic
APJ 56

dilution of arnica may reduce post-operative swelling in patients
undergoing arthroscopy.
TREATMENT FOR STRESS AND DEPRESSION
Not just for the skin, in addition to its medicinal uses, arnica is
beneficial in alleviating feelings of depression and emotional
distress. It is often used in healing sachets to restore emotional
balance and a sense of tranquillity. Organic and wild grafted arnica
flower extract can be massaged to provide warmth which unwinds
your taxed and tight muscles and alleviates stress.
OTHER BENEFITS
Arnica has been used in homeopathy for the treatment of an
accident or shock as well as illness of the circulatory system.
It is also used in the treatment of conditions like a backache,
fibromyalgia, influenza, headaches, migraines and haemorrhoids.
HAIR BENEFITS
The anti-inflammatory properties of arnica make it usable in hair
care as well. Arnica extracts are often used in conditioners and
shampoos. Some of hair benefits include the usage of arnica
extract to rejuvenate the scalp and stimulates hair follicles, helping
to strengthen hair and prevent it shedding prematurely. Arnica
is combined with other ingredients like calendula and jaborandi
in homeopathic Arnica Montana shampoos to provide soft and
manageable hair.
Arnica also cleanses the excess oil and sebum from the scalp,
giving it a natural shine. By removing dirt, debris, and oil from the
scalp, it also helps combat dandruff and itchiness. This also helps
in preventing tangled and rough hair.
HEALTH BENEFITS OF ARNICA
As stated earlier, arnica is used in the treatment of a wide range
of internal and external disorders. Although arnica is not approved
by the FDA or TGA to be used internally, it does contain several
active ingredients and volatile oils which can provide excellent
health benefits when applied topically. These include:
Treatment of arthritis
The anti-inflammatory properties of arnica are praiseworthy. It has
been used in topical preparations for healing joint pains, muscle
aches and swelling associated with arthritis. Research conducted
in 2002 indicated that the use of arnica gel twice daily for six
weeks resulted in a significant decrease in pain and stiffness in
patients with mild to moderate osteoarthritis of the knee. In the
case of osteoarthritis of the hand, arnica gel has proven to be
as effective as ibuprofen in lessening pain and improving hand
function. The essence of arnica plant is used in the treatment of
rheumatoid arthritis. Being an anti-inflammatory agent, it can be
used to massage inflamed or painful joints for relief.
Treatment of muscle soreness
The anti-inflammatory properties of this herb make it useful for
the treatment of muscle soreness. It can be applied topically to
reduce pain and inflammation caused by muscle sprain and strains.
Thus, it is beneficial for athletes who often suffer from
muscle soreness.
PRECAUTIONARY MEASURES
While it offers so many benefits arnica should be avoided during
pregnancy of breast feeding as it is considered unsafe. There
are also some people who are sensitive to the Compositae or
Asteraceae family plants, which includes chrysanthemums,
ragweed, marigolds, daisies and related plants, might also be
allergic to arnica. People who are hypersensitive to such plants
should consult the doctor before using arnica in any form.
Arnica may also interact with a number of corticosteroids,
anaesthetics, and anti-inflammatory drugs. It can also cause
bleeding when taken with anticoagulants. Specific constituents
present in arnica might lower serum lipids in the body. Those
taking drugs for lowering cholesterol should take arnica with
a caution.
CONCLUSION
This amazing little flower has so many uses. Understanding the
benefits of arnica will allow you to take advantage of the many
ways that it can offer relieve. Indeed, a very useful items to have in
your medicine cabinet. APJ
Ref: National Library of Medicine: Clinical trials, Potential Mechanisms and Adverse
Effects of Arnica.
APJ 57

STAR PERFORMER
ROCCOCO LAUNCHES A
BEAUTIFUL
SOLUTION
FOR KNEES WRINKLES
Nothing is more appealing than the sunkissed
skin glow from a long summer.
The devastating effects of sun exposure
often don’t reveal themselves until you
are in your late thirties, with sun exposure
leading to a loss of skin elasticity and
sagging skin beginning to form.
One of the areas of the body that is
affected in many women and is not talked
about is the loss of elasticity on the legs,
resulting in skin wrinkling just above the
knees. We refer to them as “knee wrinkles”.
The cause is a breakdown in elastin and
skin collagen from repeated exposure
to sunlight.
The secret to transforming this area is
hydration and hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic
acid is one of the key components of
the skin structure that gives cushion and
volume to the skin. The large surface area
of the body makes using hyaluronic acid
on the body not economical. The solution
for loss of elasticity is Frangipani and
Lychee Body Crème which is enriched
with Pracaxi oil and other botanical
actives to fight loss of skin elasticity at
its source.
Moisturising Properties: Pracaxi oil has a high content of oleic, linoleic, and behenic
acids, which give it emollient and moisturising properties. These fatty acids help to
restore the skin’s natural moisture barrier and prevent water loss, making pracaxi oil
an excellent moisturiser for dry and damaged skin. A study published in The Journal of
Cosmetic Science found that a formulation containing pracaxi oil improved skin hydration
and barrier function in human volunteers. Pracaxi oil has the ability to boost hydration by
up to 4000% for an unparalleled level of hydration and incredible skin softness.
Anti-inflammatory Properties: Pracaxi oil also has anti-inflammatory properties due to
the presence of flavonoids, saponins, and tannins. These compounds have been shown
to reduce inflammation in the skin and improve wound healing. In a study published in
the Journal of Ethnopharmacology, a topical formulation containing pracaxi oil was found
to reduce inflammation and promote wound healing significantly.
Anti-ageing Properties: Pracaxi oil also contains a compound called pentacyclic
triterpenes, which have been shown to improve skin elasticity and reduce the
appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. In a study published in The Journal of Cosmetic
Dermatology, a cream containing pracaxi oil and other natural ingredients was found to
improve skin elasticity and reduce the appearance of wrinkles in human volunteers. Knee
wrinkles don’t have to be part of life. You can firm the appearance of the skin naturally
with Frangipani and Lychee Body Crème. APJ
For more information visit:
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PRACAXI OIL
Pracaxi oil is a natural oil derived from the
seeds of the pracaxi tree (Pentaclethra
macroloba), which is native to the Amazon
rainforest. Pracaxi oil has been used for
centuries by indigenous communities
in the Amazon for its various medicinal
properties. In recent years, it has gained
popularity in the beauty industry due to its
potential benefits for skin and hair health.
Here are some of the benefits of this
amazing oil: .
APJ 58

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APJ 59

NUTRITION
MAGNESIUM
A REVIEW - WHICH ONE IS BEST FOR YOU?
Magnesium is the fourth most abundant mineral in your body, and
studies indicate that most people are deficient in this important
mineral. To boost intake, we often turn to supplements. However,
to maximise their benefits it is good to know the benefits of the
different types of magnesium. In this article we profile them and
their actions.
Magnesium is involved in over 300 metabolic reactions that are
essential for human health, including energy production, blood
pressure regulation, nerve signal transmission, and
muscle contraction.
Interestingly, low levels are linked to various illnesses, such as type
2 diabetes, heart disease, mood disorders, and migraine.
Although this mineral is present in many whole foods like green
leafy vegetables, legumes, nuts, and seeds, up to two-thirds of
people in the Western world don’t meet their magnesium needs
with diet alone.
Magnesium is regularly studied bringing to light greater details on
the activity of the different types. This knowledge allows us to
understand how to use magnesium more efficiently and optimise
its benefit in addressing specific needs. Another important
consideration is to ensure its bioavailability so that it can
metabolise correctly and deliver the benefits you are looking for.
Here we review the various forms and their uses.
1. Magnesium citrate
Magnesium citrate is a form of magnesium that’s bound with citric
acid. This acid is found naturally in citrus fruit gives them their tart,
sour flavour. However, artificially produced citric acid is often used
as a preservative and flavour enhancer in the food industry, but
does not offer the same health benefits.
Magnesium citrate is one of the most common magnesium
formulations and can be easily purchased online or in
stores worldwide.
Research suggests that this type is among the most bioavailable
forms of magnesium, meaning that it’s more easily absorbed in
your digestive tract than other forms. It’s typically taken orally to
replenish low magnesium levels. Due to its natural laxative effect,
it’s also sometimes used at higher doses to treat constipation.
What’s more, it’s occasionally marketed as a calming agent to help
relieve symptoms associated with depression and anxiety, but
more research is needed on these uses.
2. Magnesium oxide
Magnesium oxide is a salt that combines magnesium and oxygen.
It naturally forms a white, powdery substance and may be sold in
powder or capsule form. This type isn’t typically used to prevent
or treat magnesium deficiencies, as some studies report that
it’s poorly absorbed by your digestive tract. Instead, it’s more
frequently used for short-term relief of uncomfortable digestive
symptoms, such as heartburn, indigestion, and constipation.
It may also be used to treat and prevent migraines.
3. Magnesium chloride
Magnesium chloride is a magnesium salt that includes chlorine —
an unstable element that binds well with other elements, including
sodium and magnesium, to form salts. It’s well absorbed in your
digestive tract, making it a great multi-purpose supplement.
You can use it to treat low magnesium levels, heartburn,
and constipation.
Magnesium chloride is most frequently taken in capsule or tablet
form but also sometimes used in topical products like lotions and
ointments. Although people use these skin creams to soothe and
relax sore muscles, little scientific evidence links them to improved
overall magnesium levels in the body.
4. Magnesium lactate
Magnesium lactate is the salt formed when magnesium binds
with lactic acid. This acid is not only produced by your muscle and
blood cells but also manufactured for use as a preservative and
flavouring agent. Magnesium lactate is often utilized as a good
additive to regulate acidity and fortify foods and beverages. It’s
less popular as an over-the-counter dietary supplement.
Magnesium lactate is easily absorbed and may be a little
gentler on your digestive system than other types. This is
particularly significant for people who need to take large doses
of magnesium regularly or don’t easily tolerate other forms. In
a study of 28 people with a rare condition that required high
doses of magnesium daily, those who took a slow-release tablet
of magnesium lactate had fewer digestive side effects than the
control group.
5. Magnesium malate
Magnesium malate includes malic acid, which occurs naturally in
foods like fruit and wine. This acid has a sour taste and is often
used as a food additive to enhance flavour or add acidity.
Research suggests that magnesium malate is very well absorbed in
your digestive tract, making it a great option for replenishing your
magnesium levels. It is also reported to be gentler on the stomach
and has less of a laxative effect.
6. Magnesium taurate
Magnesium taurate contains the amino acid taurine. Research
suggests that adequate intakes of taurine and magnesium play
a role in regulating blood sugar. Thus, this particular form is
excellent for individuals with pre-diabetic symptoms as it may
promote healthy blood sugar levels. Magnesium and taurine
has also been show by several studies to support healthy
blood pressure.
7. Magnesium L-threonate
Magnesium L-threonate is the salt formed from mixing magnesium
and threonic acid, a water-soluble substance derived from the
metabolic breakdown of vitamin C. This form is easily absorbed.
Research notes that it may be the most effective type for
increasing magnesium concentrations in brain cells. Magnesium
L-threonate is often used for its potential brain benefits and may
help manage certain brain disorders, such as depression and agerelated
memory loss. Nonetheless, more research is needed.
8. Magnesium sulphate
Magnesium sulphate is formed by combining magnesium, sulphur,
and oxygen. It’s commonly referred to as Epsom salt. It’s white
APJ 60

with a texture similar to that of table salt. It can be consumed as
a treatment for constipation, but its unpleasant taste leads many
people to choose an alternative form for digestive support.
Magnesium sulphate is frequently dissolved in bathwater to
soothe sore, achy muscles and relieve stress. It’s also sometimes
included in skin care products, such as lotion or body oil. Although
adequate magnesium levels can play a role in muscle relaxation
and stress relief, there’s very little evidence to suggest that this
form is well absorbed through the skin.
9. Magnesium glycinate
Magnesium glycinate is formed from elemental magnesium and
the amino acid glycine. Your body employs this amino acid in
protein construction. It also occurs in many protein-rich foods,
such as fish, meat, dairy, and legumes.
Glycine is often used as a standalone dietary supplement to
improve sleep and treat a variety of inflammatory conditions,
including heart disease and diabetes. Magnesium glycinate is easily
absorbed and may have calming properties. It may help reduce
anxiety, depression, stress, and insomnia. Yet, scientific evidence
on these uses is limited, so more studies are needed.
10. Magnesium orotate
Magnesium orotate includes orotic acid, a natural substance involved
in your body’s construction of genetic material, including DNA.
It’s easily absorbed and doesn’t have the strong laxative effects
characteristic of other forms
Early research suggests that it may promote heart health due to
orotic acid’s unique role in the energy production pathways in
your heart and blood vessel tissue. As such, it’s popular among
competitive athletes and fitness enthusiasts, but it may also
aid people with heart disease. One study in 79 people with
severe congestive heart failure found that magnesium orotate
supplements were significantly more effective for symptom
management and survival than a placebo. However, this form is
significantly more effective than other forms of magnesium.
Is Transdermal Magnesium scientifically proven effective?
The current literature and evidence-based data on transdermal
magnesium application show that the propagation of
transdermal magnesium is scientifically unsupported. The
importance of magnesium and the positive effects of magnesium
supplementation are extensively documented in magnesium
deficiency, e.g., cardiovascular disease and diabetes mellitus.
The effectiveness of oral magnesium supplementation for the
treatment of magnesium deficiency has been studied in detail.
However, the proven and well-documented oral magnesium
supplementation has become questioned in the recent years
through intensive marketing for its transdermal application (e.g.,
magnesium-containing sprays, magnesium flakes, and magnesium
salt baths). In both, specialist and lay press as well as on the
internet, there are increasing numbers of articles claiming the
effectiveness and superiority of transdermal magnesium over an
oral application. It is claimed that the transdermal absorption of
magnesium in comparison to oral application is more effective
due to better absorption and fewer side effects as it bypasses the
gastrointestinal tract. However, there are insufficient studies to
prove this.
While topically applied magnesium products can help relax or ease
pain, when there is a magnesium deficiency they are not proven to
be able to rectify this and oral supplementation is considered the
more effective option.
Should you take a magnesium supplement?
If you are deficient in magnesium then supplementation may
be recommended, however, obtaining this mineral from whole
foods is always the best initial strategy. Studies confirm that
the following foods are rich in magnesium that you may wish to
include in your diet:
• Legumes: black beans, edamame
• Vegetables: spinach, kale, avocado
• Nuts: almonds, peanuts, cashews
• Whole grains: oatmeal, whole wheat
• Others: dark chocolate
Certain populations may be at a greater risk of deficiency,
including older adults and people with type 2 diabetes, digestive
disorders, and alcohol dependence.
THE BOTTOM LINE
Magnesium plays a vital role in human health. Low levels are linked
to numerous adverse effects, including depression, heart disease,
and diabetes.
Many forms exist, some of which may help relieve heartburn,
constipation, and other ailments. If you’re not sure which one is
right for you, consult your healthcare professional.
MAGNISIUM BENEFITS AT A GLANCE
MAGNESIUM GLYCINATE
• Good for sleep, anxiety and inflammation.
• An excellent choice for those with magnesium deficiency.
• No laxative properties.
TOPICAL MAGNESIUM: Magnesium Chloride and Sulfate.
• Chloride appears to have more healing properties
than sulfate.
• Good for use as lotion, baths, and foot soaks.
• Good to combine with another form of magnesium.
MAGNESIUM CITRATE
• Citrate has the best studies that confirm good bioavailability.
• A good laxative but not tolerated in high doses for
magnesium deficiency.
• Mixes well with liquids.
MAGNESIUM OXIDE
• Inexpensive and not very biodegradable or wel
absorbed compared to other forms.
• Commonly used for constipation or heartburn.
MAGNESIUM L-THREONATE
• Best for cognitive function/brain fog.
• No laxative properties.
• Good to combine with another form of magnesium.
• Potentially energizing and best taken in the morning.
MAGNESIUM MALATE
• Good for fibromyalgia and chronic fatigue syndrome.
• Energizing properties – best taken in the morning.
• Good bioavailability (absorption).
MAGNESIUM TAURATE
• Great for heart related issues and migraines.
• Shown to reduce heart attacks and promote stable
blood sugar.
• Difficult to find one that ’s not mixed with other forms.
with other forms. APJ
APJ 61

RESEARCH
NEUROENDOCRINE
INFLAMMATION:
Symptoms, Root Causes, and Support Strategies
People with neuroendocrine inflammation will have exaggerated blood sugar swings
and experience both very high and very low blood sugar levels. This results in brain fog,
dizziness, cravings, poor sleep, racing heart, anxiety, mood swings, fatigue and exhaustion.
As skin therapists, you will from time-to-time encounter
challenges to your treatment results, with disappointing
outcomes. Even though you have conducted a thorough client
consultation, carefully selected and methodically adhered to the
treatment plan that was tailored to their specific needs,
the results were disappointing.
Studies now confirm the prevalence of high-level persistent
inflammation in the community as a result of the COVID
environment. This is a reality that is now strongly supported
by numerous and ongoing studies. And while you may not be a
physician, understanding the symptoms and how this can impact
your treatment results is relevant to your work. Why? Because
high levels of inflammation will not only contribute to a rapid
ageing process, but they will also hinder the rejuvenating or
healing process which you may be working towards.
To help you understand the mechanisms of inflammation, causes
and impact to your work as well as ways to support your clients,
we are featuring two articles in this issue of APJ – the article
below will address neuroendocrine inflammation and a second
article will discuss the role of mitochondria in skin health. Both
these articles will aim to provide you with a better understanding
of the pathophysiology and the organs and systems that are
impacted with the higher levels of stress that contribute to
inflammation. These articles will also aim to help you identify the
symptoms and simple strategies to support your client.
Please note that this information is intended for educational
purposes only. Any persistent health concerns you identify, please
refer them to an appropriately qualified healthcare practitioner.
THE PATHOPHYSIOLOGY OF THE NEUROENDOCRINE SYSTEM
Your neuroendocrine system is a system made up of
neuroendocrine cells. Your neuroendocrine cells are similar to
neurons. However, they are also able to make hormones just like
your endocrine cells. When your neuroendocrine cells receive
information from your nervous system, they respond by creating
and releasing certain hormones that affect a number of important
bodily functions.
Neuroendocrine cells are able to receive information from your
nervous system. They respond by creating and releasing certain
hormones that affect a number of important bodily functions.
While your neuroendocrine cells are located all over your body, in
almost every organ, they are predominantly found in the:
• Gastrointestinal (GI) tract or gut: including the oesophagus,
stomach, small intestine, colon, and rectum.
• The skin
• Islet cells of the pancreas • Gallbladder
• Thyroid • Lungs
• Bronchi airways • Respiratory track
• Pituitary gland • Parathyroid glands
• Adrenal gland • Kidneys
• Liver • Prostrate
• Thymus • Testicle
• Ovaries • Cervix
As they are scattered around the body, they affect our overall
health. The job of our neuroendocrine cells is to create and then
release hormones and peptides as a response to both neurological
and chemical messages. After being released, these hormones
enter your bloodstream and travel to the target cells that need
APJ 62

them. They can attach to the receptors of specific target cells and
then influence your body.
Their Action
Through these hormones, the neuroendocrine cells are able to
help release digestive enzymes to break down food, move food
through your gut, support air and blood flow, affect your blood
pressure and heart rate, support muscle and bone growth, and
influence your blood sugar levels. For example, epinephrine
(adrenaline) is released by the neuroendocrine cells of the adrenal
gland in times of stress. It helps to increase your heart rate and
blood pressure in response to stress.
Hypothalamic-Pituitary-Adrenal Axis and the danger of elevated
Cortisol levels
The hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal axis is often referred to as the
HPA axis. It refers to the interaction between the hypothalamus,
pituitary gland, and adrenal glands. The hypothalamus and
pituitary gland are part of your brain and are located above the
brainstem. The adrenal glands are located on top of your kidneys.
According to a 2016 study published in Comprehensive Physiology,
the HPA axis is basically the body’s stress management
system. Our body’s initial response to stress is mediated by our
sympathetic nervous system. Epinephrine and norepinephrine
get released to increase our heart rate, cause sweating, and other
bodily reactions in response to stress and anxiety.
Soon after this, our HPA axis gets stimulated and releases
corticotropin-releasing hormones (CRH or CRF) as a response to
increased norepinephrine levels. CRH alerts our pituitary gland to
release adrenocorticotropic hormone (ACTH), which travels down
to our adrenal glands. Once it arrives, it triggers our adrenal glands
to secrete cortisol and other glucocorticoids.
As we know, cortisol helps our body to deal with stress. It
increases your blood pressure and increases blood sugar
circulation to provide the body with extra energy in times of need
as part of the fight and flight response. However, with ongoing
stress persistent high levels of cortisol can be detrimental to
our health.
The HPA axis has a very important job. It helps your body to deal
with stress. In healthy circumstances, stress or danger only comes
occasionally. We are not meant to live in a state of perpetual
and ongoing stress and when we do, our bodies do not like it.
However, in our modern-day life, stressors are everywhere.
Because of chronic stress, the HPA axis is stimulated too much.
This can become a serious problem and lead to physical and
mental health issues.
A 2014 study published in Frontiers in Immunology has found
that elevated cortisol levels can lower immune health. A 2009
review published in National Reviews in Endocrinology has linked
continuous HPA axis activation to metabolic, cardiovascular,
digestive, and immune system problems.
A 1999 study published in Archives in General Psychiatry has
found that increased stress and elevated cortisol can lead to
compromised memory. A 2013 review published in Molecular
Psychiatry has found that high cortisol may also result
in depression.
Hypothalamic-Pituitary-Thyroid Axis
The hypothalamic-pituitary-thyroid axis is also known as the
HPT axis. It also refers to thyroid homeostasis or the thyrotropic
feedback control. The HPT axis is an important part of your
neuroendocrine system. It refers to the interaction between your
hypothalamus, pituitary gland, and thyroid gland. Your thyroid is a
butterfly-shaped organ sitting at the base of your neck.
According to a 2016 review published in Comprehensive Physiology,
the HPT determines the set point of the thyroid hormone. If your
APJ 63

hypothalamus notices low levels of T3 and T4 thyroid hormones,
it will release thyrotropin-releasing hormone (TRH) to produce
thyroid-stimulating hormone (TSH) from the pituitary gland. TSH
will then stimulate thyroid hormone production making sure that
your hormone levels return to normal.
The HPT ensures normal thyroid function and thyroid health.
However, if there is a problem in this system, it may lead
to hypothyroidism (low thyroid function), hyperthyroidism
(excess thyroid function), thyrotoxicosis (over-supply of thyroid
hormones), resistance to thyroid hormones, or other
thyroid issues.
Hypothalamic-Pituitary-Gonadal Axis
The hypothalamic-pituitary-gonadal axis refers to the relationship
between your hypothalamus, pituitary glands, and ovaries or
testes. It is also often referred to as the hypothalamic-pituitarygonadal
axis or HPG axis referring to the reproductive axis. The
gonad is a reproductive gland, including the ovary in women
and the testes in men, that produce gametes, or reproductive
cells. According to a 2016 paper published in the Journal of
Endocrinology, the HPG was first introduced in 1955 by Geoffrey
Harris and has been studied since.
The HPG axis starts in your hypothalamus. The hypothalamus
releases gonadotropin-releasing hormones (GnRH). As a response,
the anterior pituitary glands will send follicle-stimulating hormone
(FSH) and luteinising hormone (NH), which are both important for
reproductive function. In men, FSH stimulates the ovarian follicles
and LH causes ovulation and the formation of the corpus luteum.
In men, along with testosterone, FSH stimulates sperm production,
and LH supports androgen synthesis by the testicular cells called
Leydig cells.
Problems in the HPG axis can lead to increased LH in both men
and women, which can affect oestrogen feedback in women and
oestrogen and androgen feedback in men. Gonadal damage can
also lead to elevated FSH levels that may lead to reproductive
issues and pregnancy failure.
HPA Axis and Blood Sugar Stability
The HPA Axis also communicates with your liver and pancreas
to help keep your blood sugar stable. When the HPA axis is
activated, it releases cortisol which is a glucocorticoid that
increases blood sugar levels. So, where does it get the blood
sugar, from stored glycogen in the liver.
Normally, the elevated blood sugar would be used quickly for
energy if we are in a fight or flight state. However, if we aren’t
moving our muscles at a high level, the sugar stays elevated which
triggers our pancreas to produce insulin from the islet cells to
bring the sugar levels down.
Your pancreas is also in communication with your hypothalamus
and pituitary gland. According to a 2011 study published by
the National Academy of Sciences, hormones released by the
hypothalamus can affect the pancreatic islet-stress axis. CRH and
growth hormone-releasing hormone (GHRH) are neuroregulators
of the HPA axis that also influence your pancreas.
CRH-receptor type 1 (CRHR1) and GHRH-receptor activation can
result in increased cell proliferation and decreased cell apoptosis.
CRH stimulates islet cells to release insulin, while glucocorticoids
promote glucose production. It may also support beta-cell viability
and reduce programmed cell death. Researchers suggest that using
agonists of CRHR1 may have therapeutic benefits in patients with
type 2 diabetes.
Symptoms of Neuroendocrine Inflammation
Neuroendocrine inflammation means that there is a chronic
inflammation that’s affecting your neuroendocrine function,
causing all kinds of symptoms and health problems, which we
need to be made aware of. It may be a good idea to include these
symptoms within your consultation form.
People with neuroendocrine inflammation will have exaggerated
blood sugar swings and experience both very high and very low
blood sugar levels. This results in brain fog, dizziness, cravings,
poor sleep, racing heart, anxiety, mood swings, fatigue and
exhaustion.
Additional symptoms of neuroendocrine inflammations
can include:
sweet and salty cravings, fatigue between meals, poor memory, cold
hands and feet, waking up in the middle of the night, headaches,
dizziness, intense PMS, menstrual, or menopausal symptoms in
women, and loss of libido or erection-difficultiesin men.
Root Causes of Neuroendocrine Inflammation
Everything is interconnected in your body. Nothing happens in
isolation or by accident. In functional medicine, doctors are always
looking to find the root cause of your symptoms and health issues
to create an appropriate treatment protocol. Studies confirm the
following root causes of neuroendocrine inflammation:
Insulin Resistance: Insulin resistance means that your body cannot
respond to insulin well and is unable to use blood glucose for
energy. Insulin resistance is often the underlying cause of any
chronic inflammation and chronic inflammation can further trigger
insulin resistance creating a vicious cycle.
For example, a 2007 study published in FEBS Letters has found an
interconnection between obesity-induced chronic inflammation
and insulin resistance. It’s not surprising that there is a connection
between insulin resistance and neuroinflammation.
A 2015 study published in Psychiatry Research has found a
connection between insulin resistance and HPA dysregulation
in elderly patients with major depressive disorder (MDD), all of
which are common in older people. A 2016 review published in the
Journal of Endocrinology has found that diabetes causes metabolic
stress which can lead to chronically increased HPA axis activity
further contributing to insulin resistance.
Researchers found that obesity, fpoor diet, stress and stress
response, glycaemic metabolism, and adipose tissue biology
may all play a role in this connection between insulin resistance,
diabetes, and HPA axis dysfunction.
Chronic Stress: Chronic stress is a silent killer in our modern world.
Stress itself is actually a good thing. When you are in a dangerous
situation, your body generates an acute stress response to allow
you to escape or fight back, and is useful for example if you have a
car accident or get mugged.
Most of the time, however, we are not in true danger. Yet with
modern-day life stressors from work, finances, relationships, and
politics, our body thinks we are always in danger and develops a
chronic stress response. Chronic stress response causes low-grade
chronic inflammation and related symptoms and health problems,
not to mention an inability to function well at work or make
rational decision in our business. Chronic stress is one of the top
underlying causes of neuroendocrine inflammation as well.
A 2017 study published in Neuropsychopharmacology has
found that stress can lead to neuroendocrine and immune
dysfunction which can make people more vulnerable to major
depressive disorder. A 2019 study published in the Journal of the
Endocrine Society has found that psychological stress can affect
the neuroendocrine regulation of brain cytokines, which may
contribute to psychopathologies.
A 2011 study published in the Immunology and Allergy Clinics of
North America has found that chronic stress may have harmful
effects on neuroendocrine and immune function. By stress
impaction the neuroendocrine regulation of inflammation, it
increases the risk of chronic inflammatory conditions.
Circadian Rhythm Disruption: Your circadian rhythm is also
referred to as your circadian cycle. It is your body’s natural sleepwake
cycle that repeats about every 24 hours. It is a natural and
internal process. Under natural circumstances, your body will
naturally know when to start to feel tired and then finally go
to sleep at night, when to wake up, and how to feel energised
throughout the day.
Unfortunately, modern-day living affects our circadian rhythm as
well. We may have to set our alarm unnaturally early during the
week or sleep in on the weekend. We may go to sleep later than
we should reduce our sleep time to as little as 4 or 5 hours (or
less) instead of the recommended 7 to 9 hours. We stimulate our
bodies with sugar, caffeine, alcohol, and electronics, compromising
APJ 64

our day-time energy and quality night-time sleep.
Circadian rhythm disruption is, unfortunately, incredibly common
in our society. The problem is that it can lead to insomnia,
daytime sleepiness, fatigue, brain fog, depression, anxiety, stress,
relationship troubles, poor work or school performance, weight
gain, lack of motivation, chronic inflammation, and chronic health
issues. A 2013 review published in Alcohol Research has found that
circadian rhythm disruption can lead to chronic inflammation,
metabolic dysfunction, and immune system problems.
Circadian rhythm disruption may also result in neuroendocrine
inflammation. A 2014 study published in the Annals of the New York
Academy of Sciences has found that the circadian rhythm helps to
create an internal balance or homeostasis. When it’s interrupted
it can create a stress response and activate the HPA axis.
Researchers found that the disruption of the circadian rhythms can
lead to HPA axis dysregulation and overactivation, which can lead
to metabolic, mood, autoimmune, and other chronic disorders.
Mold Exposure: Mold is a fungus that can grow on just about
anything. It has the ability to thrive in many conditions, especially
in warm temperatures and high moisture environments. Mold
can grow in both indoor and outdoor environments. It can hide in
your home in your bathroom, moist basement, under the carpet,
or anywhere else. Mold also has the ability to spread far and wide,
as tiny microscopic spores are released from the source, making
air, especially indoor air is a major source of mold toxicity. Mold
releases mycotoxins that are a form of chemical warfare against
other mold forms and these mycotoxins can be highly destructive
to human health, they can cause symptoms such respiratory
problems, skin issues, mucus membrane irritation, fatigue, brain
fog, mental impairment, nausea and more.
Chronic Infections: Chronic infections, including chronic gut
infections, Epstein-Barr virus, Lyme disease, and oral health issues
can contribute to neuroendocrine inflammation. As a 2019 review
published in the European Journal of Immunology has explained,
the immune and endocrine systems closely interact, for example,
when it comes to glucose metabolism.
When your body encounters any pathogens, cytokines in your
body trigger endocrine signals that result in altered insulin and
other hormonal levels to fight infection. The immune system
basically modifies endocrine regulation of system metabolism to
protect you from infections.
Heavy Toxic Load: Unfortunately, toxins are all around us, in our
water, in our air, in the products we use, the food we eat, and the
clothes we wear. Heavy toxic load can lead to all kinds of health
issues, including neuroendocrine inflammation.
Certain chemicals found in plastic bottles and containers, metal
food cans, cosmetics, detergents, pesticides, flame retardants, and
so on are endocrine disruptors. Heavy metals, including mercury
in dental fillings or lead in paint or water, fluoride in municipal
water and dental products can also cause chronic inflammation
and serious health issues. For example, a 2014 study published
in the Journal of Preventive Medicine and Public Health has found
that environmental mercury has toxic effects, and it can cause
inflammation and disrupt your health.
As endocrine disruptors and highly inflammatory toxins, it’s not
surprising that they can also lead to neuroendocrine inflammation.
According to a 1999 publication by the National Academies Press,
toxins can cause chronic inflammation, affect the HPA axis,
interfere with pituitary-thyroid hormone regulation, and lead to
neuroendocrine problems.
Heavy EMF Exposure: Electric and magnetic fields (EMFs) are
invisible areas of energy also referred to as radiation. They are
related to the use of electrical power, as well as various forms of
lighting, including man-made and natural lighting. EMFs can be
grouped into two main categories based on their frequency: nonionizing
and ionizing radiation.
Non-ionizing radiation is a low-level radiation that includes
appliances and tools, including cell phones, computers, tablets,
wireless (WiFi) routers, Bluetooth devices, microwave ovens,
power lines, house energy meters, and MRI. On the other hand,
ionizing radiation is a high-level radiation that may be much more
harmful to your body, including ultraviolet light and x-rays.
Heavy EMF exposure can lead to fatigue, insomnia, sleep
disturbances, headaches, depression, anxiety, irritability, dizziness,
lack of concentration, memory troubles, itching, tingling, tinnitus,
APJ 65

nausea, blood sugar issues, hormonal imbalances, and infertility,
among other health issues.
A 2017 study published in the Journal of Microscopy and
Ultrastructure has found that EMFs have chemical effects that can
cause an imbalance in the body. They found that among many
health issues, this can cause neuroendocrine changes leading to
hormonal problems. A 2018 review published in Environmental
Research has found that WiFi, a specific source of EMFs, can
cause neuroendocrine tissues and increased cell death in multiple
tissues, neuroendocrine problems, testis and sperm dysfunction,
hormonal issues, oxidative stress.
Nutritional deficiencies and support
Nutrient deficiencies, magnesium, vitamin B, vitamin D, and
zinc deficiencies in particular, can often lead to neuroendocrine
inflammation. According to several studies important nutrients
to help support health and protect against neuroendocrine
inflammation are as follows:
Magnesium: Magnesium is a key mineral that helps to support
muscle and nerve function and help proper energy production.
Magnesium is found in greens, nuts, and seeds. Magnesium
deficiency is incredibly common and can result in a number of
health issues, including neuroendocrine inflammation.
A 2018 review published in the Journal of Inflammation Research
has found that magnesium deficiency can lead to an inflammatory
response, chronic inflammation, and oxidative stress. This chronic
inflammation may also result in neuroendocrine inflammation. A
2020 review published in Nutrients has found that magnesium
deficiency may increase your body’s susceptibility to stress.
Increased chronic stress due to magnesium deficiency can also
increase the risk of neuroendocrine inflammation.
B Vitamins: B vitamins are found in meat, eggs, dark leafy greens,
nuts, seeds, and legumes. B vitamins help support the body’s
cellar function. They are important for your metabolism, energy
production, blood cell creation, your brain health, mental health,
skin health, and other areas of your health. Vitamin B6 is critical
for your central nervous system. Folate or vitamin B9 is important
for cell growth and blood cell formation. Vitamin B12 is essential
for your blood and nerve cells.
B vitamin deficiencies, particularly deficiencies in B6, folate,
and B12 can cause neuroendocrine inflammation. Vitamin B12
deficiencies are particularly common in vegans and vegetarians
without supplementation, however, they often occur in those who
consume animal products as well. According to a 2016 review
published in Nutrients, vitamin B6, folate, and B12 are critical for
neurological function and deficiencies can lead to brain
health problems.
A further study showed that B vitamins are particularly important
for hypothalamic health and HPA axis function, and deficiencies
can result in HPA axis dysfunction and emotional problems.
Vitamin D: We get vitamin D from the sun and also from
certain foods, including fatty fish, beef liver, and egg yolks.
Vitamin D is important for bone, muscle, gut, brain, and immune
health. Deficiencies in vitamin D can result in neuroendocrine
inflammation along with all kinds of other chronic health issues.
A 2016 study published in Diabetes has found that hypothalamic
vitamin D can help to improve glucose homeostasis and support
weight loss. A further eview published in the Journal of Steroid
Biochemistry and Molecular Biology has found that vitamin D can
affect the hypothalamus and improve glucose control and insulin
function in diabetes. Vitamin D deficiency was also linked to the
development of type 2 diabetes, decreased neuronal development,
inflammation, and depression.
APJ 66

Zinc: Zinc can be found in shellfish, meat, nuts, seeds, dairy, eggs,
and legumes. It’s essential for immune health and metabolic
function. Zinc deficiencies can result in neuroendocrine
inflammation among other health issues.
A 2019 review published in the World Journal of Gastroenterology
has found that zinc deficiencies can result in depression and
immune health issues, and though more research is needed, may
play a role in neuroendocrine neoplasms. A further 2006 study
published in Ageing Research and Reviews has found that zinc may
play a role in the plasticity of neuroendocrine-thymus interaction
related to ageing.
Iodine: Iodine is critical for thyroid function and preventing
hypothyroidism. It is found in seaweed, shrimp, fish, other
seafood, eggs, and iodized salt. Iodine deficiency can play a role
in neuroendocrine inflammation, especially related to HPT and
thyroid health.
A 2007 review published in the Sultan Qaboos University Medical
Journal explained that iodine deficiency can contribute to low
thyroid function, mental developmental problems in children,
and brain health issues.
IN CONCLUSION
While we live in interesting times, we are privileged to have access
to Incredible evidence-based information that include simple
strategies that we can implement to boost immune support and
minimise the risk of inflammation overload.
Also when it comes to lowering stress levels, let us not forget
simple and time-honoured techniques that we zzzzzz--can
implement within our treatments, such as lymphatic drainage
and massage both for face, scalp and body, as skilfully applied
techniques have also been proven to lower cortisol level and
boost our happy hormones - endorphins and dopamine. APJ
Reference: for references please contact info@apanetwork.com.au
APJ 67

SCIENCE
CANNABIS AND
HEMP OIL
Are they found in SKINCARE?
Professor Terry Everitt
Cannabis-derived skincare are regularly featured in skincare as
studies show its benefits for medicinal purposes such as pain
management with more advanced health issues such as cancer.
So, what is cannabis in skincare? Is this another marketing-driven
situation or is there science that makes it possible for the skin
to have a big relax due to applied cannabis? In his usual manner,
Professor Terry Everitt looks at the science of cosmetic chemistry
to determine what is real and what is marketing hype.
While there certainly is a marketing slant to the cannabis in
skincare, the science shows that cannabidiol, (not cannabis)
holds great promise. Cannabis (marijuana) has long been used for
recreational purposes (I am not referring to most of you, about
other people!) and even longer perhaps in the healing arts. It
must be made clear that for skincare, cannabis (as you may know
it) is not used. In fact, there is nothing illegal about cannabidiol
in skincare use as we are not using any of the psycho-active
properties of the cannabis resin.
THE PLANT
The Cannabis sativa and Cannabis indica plants are two common
species used; C. sativa has comparatively higher delta-9-
tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) concentration (the stuff recreational
users want) while C. indica has comparatively higher cannabidiol
concentration (this is the stuff we want in skincare).
The cannabis plant is called an annual, dioecious, and
anemophilous (yep, even I went to the dictionary for that)
flowering plant that belongs to the Cannabaceae family and
is native to Central and South Asia. The plant has over 400
compounds isolated, including more than 60 cannabinoids.
Cannabinoids are classified into three subtypes:
• Endocannabinoids, which is actually naturally present in the
human body
• Phytocannabinoids (present in cannabis plant) and
• Synthetic cannabinoids (produced chemically).
There has been a multitude of studies undertaken on cannabis
components affecting the skin – both the dermatological and
nondermatological literature has many examples. Sadly, the
differences in methodological issues such as an inadequate
description of allocation, concealment and blinding inaccuracies,
varying cannabinoid formulations and doses, small sample sizes
and other variables make it difficult to generalise on the outcome
effectiveness. Many generalisations have been made, however,
complimentary and substantiating studies are few.
THE NEED TO BE SPECIFIC
As an example of the multitude of complexities involved, it
is not enough to talk about cannabis, phytocannabinoids, or
cannabinoids (as there are a few such as cannabidiol (CBD) or
cannabichromene (CBC)).
Since Tubaro et al. (2010) showed that it was the terpenoid moiety
of phytocannabinoids that was more important than those in the
alkyl residue, with the highest potency consistently associated to
compounds having a tricyclic skeleton, we need to get closer to
the actual molecule differences.
Maybe I should have given you the short story - just saying that
‘phytocannabinoid is studied’ does not mean much, as it is the
shape of the many molecules that make the difference. It is this
basic fact that has been ignored and has confused so many.
RECEPTORS
We have two types of cannabinoids receptors, which are
G-protein-receptors, CB1 and CB2, (the CB is short for
cannabinoid) and they can be found all over your body — including
the skin, with different cannabinoids binding to these receptors
with varying degrees of strength.
CB1 expresses in the central nervous system, and tissues and cells
of the immune system, with CB2, expressed almost everywhere
including neuronal tissue.
It is interesting that cannabinoids have been shown to attach to
other receptors such as TRPV-1, (Transient Receptor Potential
APJ 68

cation channel subfamily V member 1), which is a ligand-gated,
non-selective ion channel in Langerhans cells, endothelial and
epithelial cells, epidermal and hair follicle keratinocytes as well as
in smooth muscle cells.
While still in the early stages of figuring out how specific
cannabinoids interact with the skin, there is already a lot known.
There is at least one cannabinoid in the cannabis plant that can
be particularly effective: Cannabidiol (CBD), which is a nonpsychoactive
cannabinoid found in both cannabis and industrial
hemp. CBD, legal when extracted from industrial hemp, and widely
considered to be high in antioxidants and is known to ease dry
skin, is the mainstream ingredient used in skincare products so far.
In Australia, recreational use of marijuana remains illegal across
all federal, state, and territories. Victoria was the first state in
Australia to introduce legislation to legalise medicinal cannabis in
early 2017 and the other states and territories and then followed
suit. So medical cannabis is legal and non-medical is not.
Medical cannabis is under the Therapeutic Goods Administration
frameworks for the use of unlicensed medicines, including the
Special Access and Authorised Prescriber schemes. That is not
every doctor can prescribe this.
In skincare, we are not using medical cannabis or any cannabis (as
you might think of it) at all.
It is a component of cannabinoid, cannabidiol that is of interest to
skincare formulators.
APJ 69

DERMATOLOGY
Mounessa, Siegel, Dunnick, & Dellavalle (2017) in their study
titled The role of cannabinoids in dermatology provide evidence
of multiple studies with various cannabis constituents on
dermatologic conditions including pruritus, inflammatory skin
diseases, eczematous dermatoses and skin cancer. Some of the
studies indicated in this paper are small and isolated, so further
studies need to be undertaken to show proof of affect and effect.
With some patients, a frequent side effect is an irritation from the
cannabinoids used.
Interestingly, the corresponding author of the above study, Robert
Dellavalle, M.D., Ph.D., Professor of Dermatology at the University
of Colorado, in Denver, is reported to the state
“While it sounds trendy, the reality is that the hype is ahead of
the research, right now, we don’t have the evidence to back up
recommendations for using cannabinoid therapy” (Dermatology
Times Staff, 2018, p. 56).
Studies are suggesting, however, that cannabinoids are helpful and
promising in the realms of itch and inflammatory diseases of the
skin like psoriasis and eczema.
ENDOGENOUS CANNABIS-LIKE SUBSTANCES
As mentioned, the body has its supply of cannabinoids called
endocannabinoids (ECS) that are amides or esters of long chain
polyunsaturated fatty acids, primarily phosphatidylcholine. The
lipophilic nature of endocannabinoids allows them to activate
enzymes in the cytosol and transmembrane compartments, where
they can interact with lipoprotein structures as a lipid signalling
system (Kupczyk, Reich, and Szepietowski, 2009).
They are produced ‘on demand’ and metabolised immediately after
their reaction, with the reaction causing multiple effects.
Regarding skin, it seems that endocannabinoids could be
involved in the differentiation of keratinocytes and have
immunosuppressive properties and is considered a potential antiinflammatory
ingredient in skin care.
When CB1 or CB2 are engaged, modification to functions
of epidermal cells occur – whether through proliferation,
differentiation or apoptosis – which are all important processes for
the healthy physical defence of the skin.
Endocannabinoids role in skin’s immunity is to constantly control
the activity of the skin’s immune and inflammatory system as
previously mentioned.
MELANOGENESIS
Pucci et al. (2012) found that a fully functional endocannabinoid
system is present in human melanocytes, including anandamide
(AEA), 2-arachidonoylglycerol, the respective target receptors
(CB1, CB2, and TRPV1), and their metabolic enzymes.
At higher concentrations of AEA induces normal human epidermal
melanocyte apoptosis, via the p53 pathway.
At lower concentrations, AEA and other CB1-binding
endocannabinoids dose-dependently stimulate melanin synthesis
and enhance tyrosinase gene expression and activity.
This melanin synthesis was much faster than the usual enzymatic
pathways (see figure B). The little triangles represent the faster
pathway.
Pucci et al. (2012)
More recently, Hwang et al. (2017) also found that cannabidiol
increased both melanin content and tyrosinase activity, which
suggest that cannabidiol could be a useful agent for treating
hypopigmented skin disorders and goes on to prove how this
happens.
We know that melanin biosynthesis is mediated by several
signalling pathways and is a very complicated process. To date,
we try to stop the production of melanin at the beginning of
melanogenesis at the tyrosine/tyrosinase junction as it gets all too
difficult after that.
Treating hyperpigmentation is easy compared to treating
hypopigmentation, and this new pathway information tells how it
may be possible to increase melanogenesis.
For the biochemistry geeks only
Hwang etal. (2017) found that the mRNA levels of
microphthalmiaassociated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase,
tyrosinase-related protein (TRP) 1, and TRP2 increased following
cannabidiol treatment.
Mechanistically, cannabidiol regulated melanogenesis by
upregulating MITF through phosphorylation of p38 mitogenactivated
protein kinase (MAPK) and p42/44 MAPK,
independent of cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP)-protein
kinase A (PKA) signalling which indicates that cannabidiolinduced
melanogenesis is cannabinoid CB1 receptor-dependent.
Functions of the cutaneous endocannabinoid system
(Bíró et al. 2009)
CHEMISTRY ALERT
2, N-arachidonoyl ethanolamide (anandamide or AEA) and
2-arachidonoyl glycerol (2-AG) function as endogenous lipid
ligands of the cannabinoid receptors CB1 and CB2 expressed
throughout the skin in keratinocytes, melanocytes, fibroblasts,
sebocytes, and hair follicles (Kendall et al. 2015).
Essentially, they are fatty acid neurotransmitters, released by the
post synaptic membrane, with 2-AG being the most common.
How this will affect skincare products is unclear due to the
contradictory effects that concentration has, more research will
solve this however, so expect to see endocannabinoids-based
products in suncare (to produce tan) and in different formulations
to help reduce melanogenesis.
The real product is a few years away. However, we will soon
have effective products that will be able to stimulate melanin
production – although you can see the possible down side of
this, can’t you?
It is interesting that L’Oreal in Paris had applied for a worldwide
patent (US 9326927 B2) for Use of Cannabinoid Compounds
for Stimulating Melanogenesis in May 2016 based on the use of
anandamide and methanandamide, using a different pathway to
that proposed by Hwang et al. (2017).
APJ 70

The secret of hemp seed oil is it is very high in
gamma-linolenic acid, a great polyunsaturated fat;
hemp seed oil is (almost) full of omega 3 and
omega six fatty acids. It’s the real deal for
the dry or inflamed skin.
HEMP SEED OIL
Hemp has been used in skincare for a long time and many think it
is actually cannabis.
Hemp hails from Eastern Asia, and it can be traced back thousands
of years to ancient India and China, used in medicine for several
aliments.
It is important to note that hemp and cannabis come from
different parts of the cannabis sativa plant. Despite its association
with cannabis, hemp is free of tetrahydrocannabinol (THC), which
as mentioned is the hallucinogenic associated with marijuana and
the part that is illegal.
The cannabinoids does not have any of the effects of cannabis yet
does have a supply of phytocannabinoids (technically known as
annabivarins) from the Cannabis sativa plant.
The secret of hemp seed oil is it is very high in gamma-linolenic
acid, a great polyunsaturated fat; hemp seed oil is (almost) full of
omega 3 and omega six fatty acids. It’s the real deal for the dry or
inflamed skin. While the initial rush was short of spectacular, hemp
seed oil seems to have had its day. It is still around yet the results
were underwhelming.
CONCLUSION
From a literature review and what I have briefly mentioned above,
it seems that the main physiological function of the cutaneous
endocannabinoid system (ECS) is to constitutively control the
proper and well-balanced proliferation, differentiation and survival,
as well as immune competence and tolerance, of skin cells.
There is no doubt we will soon see in Australia what is available
in other countries. Products with specific ingredients targeted to
the manipulation of the ECS (aiming to normalise skin cell growth,
sebum production and inflammation to name a few indications).
It will also be interesting to see how formulators respond to its
challenges. Not only in the ingredient choice, but also in the
transport mechanisms to get the cannabinoids to help the body’s
endocannabinoids. APJ
References: Please contact info@apanetwork.com for the full list of references.
APJ 71

RESEARCH
MITOCHONDRIA
FUNCTION
and its impact on skin health
and anti-ageing
Tina Viney
Your role as a skincare practitioner will progressively require
that you work equally on both preventative, as well as corrective
measures in skin improvement. Gone are the days when your
client came to you seeking just a pampering session, today’s
consumers have a whole new set of expectations.
The advent of anti-ageing cosmetic medicine is now mainstream
and considered within the reach of most individuals, regardless
of their age or gender. Today, when a consumer visits a salon or a
clinic, visible changes to their skin are considered the norm – they
now have increasingly higher expectations. Much of this has been
perpetuated by the media with its constant bombardment with
images of youthful transformations enticing consumers that they
are within their reach.
As a skincare practitioner, when working on improving the
appearance of the skin, the elements that contribute to ageing
need to be more comprehensively understood, especially if you
are looking at reversing skin damage. This will allow you to achieve
greater success in skin improvement, not just preventative, but
more importantly, when the objective is to achieve skin damage
reversal as your strategic objective.
In recent times, a more in-depth understanding of the biophysiological
functions (and dysfunction) of the skin and body are
considered essential for the practice of skin therapies. One such
activity is the role of mitochondria function in skin health and
anti-ageing.
Research has shown that the health of the mitochondria in your
body may determine whether or not your skin is in good condition.
The body is an incredible bundle of complex functions that work
together for the purpose of keeping you vibrant and alive. The
more we understand these functions and how to keep them
running smoothly, the better our chances to increase longevity and
overall quality of life.
WHAT IS THE STRUCTURE AND FUNCTION OF THE
MITOCHONDRIA?
Mitochondria are the “powerhouses” or energy centres of the cell.
They are called this because of the way that they turn energy from
the food we consume into energy that our body can use.
One major role of mitochondria is to generate most of the
adenosine triphosphate, (commonly known as ATP) in our
body, a very complex organic chemical found in all forms of life.
ATP synthase generates molecules of ATP, resulting in energy
production. Through this process, sugar, fat, or protein molecules
can be converted into energy.
ATP production occurs in the mitochondria via the citric acid cycle,
or the Krebs cycle. Finally, when the ATP from the mitochondria
converts food into usable energy, the process is called oxidative
phosphorylation, or cellular respiration.
The skin is a high turnover organ, and its constant renewal
depends on the rapid proliferation of its progenitor cells. The
energy requirement for these metabolically active cells is met by
mitochondrial respiration, an ATP generating process driven by
a series of protein complexes collectively known as the electron
transport chain (ETC) that is located on the inner membrane of
the mitochondria.
When cell turnover is at its optimal this will contribute to a
youthful looking skin, but as this process slows down, the skin
will appear dull and aged. For this reason, one of the objectives
of skin therapy is to minimise oxidative stress through the use of
antioxidant ingredients and procedures that support cell turnover
and proliferation.
One of the causes of slowing of skin cell turnover is also attributed
to reactive oxygen species (ROS) like superoxide, singlet oxygen,
peroxides are inevitably produced during respiration and disrupt
macromolecular and cellular structures if not quenched by the
antioxidant system. The oxidative damage caused by mitochondrial
ROS production has been established as the molecular basis of
multiple pathophysiological conditions, including ageing and
disease states.
Not surprisingly, the mitochondria are the primary organelle
affected during chronological and UV-induced skin ageing, the
phenotypic manifestations of which are the direct consequence of
mitochondrial dysfunction. Also, deletions and other aberrations in
the mitochondrial DNA (mtDNA) are frequent in photo-aged skin
and skin cancer lesions.
APJ 72

MITOCHONDRIAL DISFUNCTION AND PIGMENTATION
Recent studies have revealed a more innate role of the
mitochondria in maintaining skin homeostasis and pigmentation,
which are affected when the essential mitochondrial functions
are impaired. Some common and rare skin disorders have a
mitochondrial involvement and include dermal manifestations of
primary mitochondrial diseases as well as congenital skin diseases
caused by damaged mitochondria. It is therefore true to say that
melasma, pigmentation and skin diseases occurs as a direct result
of mitochondrial dysfunction.
With studies increasingly supporting the close association
between mitochondria and skin health, its therapeutic action in
the skin is activated either via an ATP production boost or free
radical scavenging and this has gained attention from clinicians
and aestheticians alike. Numerous bioactive compounds have
been identified that improve mitochondrial functions and have
proved effective against aged and diseased skin. Here are some
facts we can now deduct due to these observations:
Facts
• Skin is the largest organ with high turnover rate in the
human body.
• Mitochondria play a vital role in skin turnover.
• Mitochondrial dysfunction induces skin ageing and
contributes to skin disorders.
• One of the manifestations of mitochondrial dysfunction is
the build-up of dead cell and poor cell turnover.
• Targeting mitochondria may help rejuvenate skin.
HOW MITOCHONDRIAL FUNCTION CAN HELP AGEING SKIN
Mitochondrial disease and dysfunction have been linked to ageing.
Reactive oxygen species (ROS) are produced in mitochondria
during the energy production process. ROS are highly charged
particles that can damage DNA, fats, and proteins.
Research states, “The hydroxyl radical is considered to be the most
damaging form of ROS, as it is highly reactive and causes oxidative
damage to virtually every molecule type in the cell, including lipids,
proteins, and nucleic acids.”
When mitochondrial DNA is damaged, duplication of this damage
occurs when cells reproduce. Over time, more damaged cells
accumulate, resulting in the appearance of ageing.
While there’s no way to stop this process entirely, slowing the
ageing process may be possible by reducing the damage to this
mitochondrial DNA.
There is even more evidence that supports the idea that
mitochondrial dysfunction and oxidative stress contribute to the
development of skin photo-ageing. As we know, photo-ageing
is the premature ageing of the skin. This is caused by repeated
exposure to ultraviolet radiation as UV light comes primarily from
the sun.
When ROS production is high, mtDNA are exposed to oxidative
damage, and the mutational rate is much higher. When mtDNA
mutations increase, normal mitochondrial function decreases and
signs of skin ageing, such as fine lines, wrinkles, and discoloration
may occur.
In genetics, “deletion” means a DNA mutation where a sequence
is missing. This could lead to disease or error occurring during skin
cell replication.
In one study, the epidermal keratinocytes, or cells on the
outermost layer of the skin, were more sensitive to mitochondrial
dysfunction and exposure to UV radiation. According to this study,
two weeks of sun exposure (particularly UVA radiation) can lead
to a 40% increase in the levels of common deletion in the dermis.
This can persist for up to 16 months.
When mitochondria are functioning properly, the ageing process is
normal and slow.
THE ROLE OF DIET AND NUTRITION IN SUPPORTING
MITOCHONDRIAL HEALTH
APJ 73

Optimising your mitochondrial function can help delay the
appearance of fine lines, crow’s feet around your eyes, or reduce
dark spots due to sun damage? Healthy mitochondria function
could potentially help ageing skin. Therefore, caring for the
mitochondria in your body should be considered as an extension
of skin care.
Improving the health of mitochondria may improve the health in
our organs, skin, and entire body. There are several things that we
can do to keep our mitochondria in good health. More and more
studies now confirm the important role that eating a balanced diet
predominantly based on fresh fruit and vegetables, protein and
healthy fats, while consuming little to no sugar and fewer than
average carbohydrates can improve mitochondrial function.
Consuming a large number of carbs may increase the production
of free radicles and other toxins in the body. An overabundance of
free radicals has been proven to affect the skin’s structural layer
and, in some cases, its collagen production contributing to skin cell
damage, wrinkles and unevenness in skin tone such as melasma
and pigmentation.
Niacinamide: When it comes to supplements there are several
studies that point to the benefit of key nutrients. For example,
niacinamide that has been shown to promote healthy
mitochondria, can aid in supporting skin health.
Polyphenol extracts: Another beneficial supplement for
mitochondrial support are polyphenol extracts. Polyphenols are
naturally occurring antioxidant chemicals found in colourful plants
such as fruits, vegetables, and legumes.
A 2016 double-blind trial found that polyphenol supplements
may have caused an increase in the function of mitochondria
in muscles.
Coenzyme Q (CoQ10): CoQ10 is a lipophilic isoprenylated
quinone that is produced naturally in the body. It acts as a ROS
scavenger that protects against membrane lipid oxidation. Both
the antioxidant and bioenergetic roles of CoQ10 are closely
ssociated with supporting the skin against the signs of ageing
and other disorders.
CoQ10, is also known to generate energy in our cells and may be
helpful with conditions of fatigue or brain fog. It may also help
support the brain, and lungs, as well as protect against
hronic diseases.
Several conditions may be associated with low levels of CoQ10,
including cancer, diabetes, and neurodegenerative disorders.
However, it is not clear whether low levels of CoQ10 caused these
diseases or result from them.
CoQ10 levels are 10-fold higher in the epidermis compared to
the dermis and decrease significantly with age. Reduced CoQ10
content in aged dermal fibroblasts is associated with lower
activity of cellular renewal due to membrane depolarisation, and
generation of superoxide anions.
Furthermore, several studies have shown that topical application
of CoQ10 on photo-aged skin ameliorates the phenotypic signs of
ageing and restores mitochondrial function. For this reason, it is an
ingredient that is commonly used in skincare.
The age-related glycolytic shift reported in one study on the
human keratinocytes, was also associated with impaired CoQ10
function and was reversed by its topical application.
Therapeutic targeting of mitochondria in the skin involves either
boosting ATP production or scavenging the excess amounts of
free radicals. Numerous studies have demonstrated the antiageing
effects of CoQ10 on cultured human dermal fibroblasts. It
is a critical ingredient in many anti-ageing and regenerative skin
creams, and as shown by several studies, topical application of
two different CoQ10-containing formulas significantly replenished
the levels of this antioxidant in the dermal and epidermal layers of
older skin (>60 years). Further studies also showed that photostressed
skin also benefitted from CoQ10 application on account
of reduction in free radical levels.
Exercise: Exercising regularly and avoiding environmental toxins
are other ways to ensure that mitochondria function properly,
making them great additions to your anti-ageing regimen.
Sunscreen: The role of daily use of sunscreen is also critical to
protection against potential damage to mitochondria. In addition
to the inevitable time-induced changes, the skin is also highly
susceptible to photo-ageing due to chronic exposure to solar
UVA and UVB radiations. Sun induced skin ageing interferes
in the protective role of the skin against physicochemical and
biological attacks, as well as its thermoregulatory, sensory,
immunological, and hormonal functions. The structural and
functional manifestations of cutaneous ageing are premature and
more severe in the photo-aged compared to the chronologically
aged skin.
APJ 74

The age-related glycolytic shift
reported one study in the human
keratinocytes was also associated
with impaired CoQ10 function
and was reversed by its topical
application.
Furthermore, since photo-ageing is a cumulative process, it
is more pronounced among older individuals who have been
regularly exposed to the sun for long periods. Both intrinsic and
environmental factors affect the epidermal and dermal layers of
the skin. Histologically, chronological ageing is characterised by
significant epidermal thinning, which manifests as dryness
and wrinkles.
In contrast, photo-aged skin has a thick, leathery appearance
with deeper wrinkles and uneven pigmentation. Several studies
have directly or indirectly linked mitochondrial dysfunction to
both chronological and photo-ageing of the skin. At the molecular
levels, aged skin is characterised by damaged mitochondria,
mtDNA deletions, high ROS levels, and oxidative stress in both the
dermal and epidermal layers.
Microcurrent
Of all the aesthetic devices microcurrent is a confirmed technology
that stimulates ATP in the cells, thus supporting mitochondria
integrity. Microcurrent is considered an energy booster in
supporting skin tone and vitality, and it attributes its action to its
positive action in activating ATP in the cells.
If you are not familiar with this technology, attend the APAN
Aesthetic Conference and learn more about the benefits of this
technology through a workshop conducted by MM Medical
Aesthetics.
IN CONCLUSION
Understanding the mechanism and function of the mitochondria
and the important role it plays in cellular energy and skin health
can provide practitioners with valuable insight on how to identify
evidence-based strategies, both for better skin health and
overall wellbeing. APJ
APJ 75

SOCIAL MEDIA
WHY YOU NEED
A SOCIAL MEDIA
CONTENT CALENDAR
Trish Hammond
Social media is a great way to connect with people and build your
brand. But even the best of us can become overwhelmed by the
sheer volume of content we need to create in order to reach every
person on our list.
Instead of trying to keep up with all the activity happening on
social media, schedule it! By creating a calendar for your social
media accounts, you’ll be able to find time for each step of the
process: posting new content, engaging with followers, responding
to comments… and so much more!
A good social media calendar will help you do all this while helping
you stay organised and focused on what matters most: connecting
with your audience and growing your business!
Here’s the three reasons why you need a social media content
calendar:
1. Time Saver
Planning ahead with a social media calendar also allows you
to save time on any future research needed for potential
topics and posts. You’ll know well ahead of time what you
need to prepare in order to stay on schedule, so there will be
no last-minute scramble.
Save yourself the headache of scrambling for ideas or finding
research materials at the last minute by using our Pink Room
Content calendar!
2. Keep You Organised
Ever heard the expression, “a picture is worth a thousand
words?” Well, it turns out that a calendar is worth even more.
A content calendar can help you stay organised and keep your
perspective fresh over time. It allows you to map outposts
in advance so you can ensure that you’re posting content of
a specific type at the right times. A content calendar also helps
you keep track of what time of day each post was published,
which will help you avoid posting too late or too early in the day.
3. Build Credibility
While you may think that it’s not necessary to keep track
of when you plan to post on social media, the reality is that
people like to know when they can expect updates from
you. Building a consistent calendar enables your audience
to anticipate your posts, which can make them feel more
connected with your firm. This can help with engagement as
you build your following and establish your credibility on
each platform.
So, how do you use your social media calendar? Consider it a
resource to track your content and engage potential leads. Set
detailed days that allow you and your team to plan out the next
week or month. If you want to be successful with social media
marketing, use a social media calendar.
We hope that this article will inspire you to take action and create
an effective social media marketing strategy for your business.
Like other proven marketing techniques, you will only experience
the benefits from using your content calendar if it is being used
consistently. We at The Pink Room can do the job for you. You can
find our team -
• Facebook @thepinkroomcreative
• Instagram @thepinkroom.com.au
• LinkedIn @Trish Hammond
Or simply email trish@thepinkroom.com.au and let’s have a
discovery call to work out exactly what you need and how we can
help you get there.
Stay tuned for our topic in the next APAN journal. APJ
APJ 76

The Pink Room can help you to build an
online presence for your aesthetic business
and grow your practice.
Support for Aesthetic
Businesses
Digital
We offer a full range of online
marketing services for your practice.
Solutions
Social Media Made Easy
For Your Aesthetic Clinic
Every business today needs to have a social media
presence, especially in the aesthetics industry. Let
us make it easy for you, so you can spend your
time building your business.
Content
Creation
Engaging content is one of
the most important pieces
of the puzzle for a
successful website.
Search Engine
Optimisation (SEO)
We can implement a
comprehensive SEO campaign
to help gain online visibility.
Social Media
Management
We can help your business
establish a creative and
effective presence on
social media.
(From $500 per month)
Email
Marketing
We provide personally
tailored email campaigns
for your business.
Online
Training
We offer online training
courses to take your business
to the next level.
Done For You
Packages
A fully customised package
encompassing all aspects of
digital media marketing.
CONTACT US:
APJ 77
hello@thepinkroom.com.au Tel +61 438 599 833

COSMETIC MEDICINE
TRADITIONAL VS RESILIENT HYALURONIC ACID FOR
INJECTABLE COSMETIC
PROCEDURES:
A CASE STUDY
Dr Giulia D’Anna
What is traditional Hyaluronic acid dermal filler? Hyaluronic
acid is a long-chain sugar molecule that is naturally found
in the dermis layer of the skin and joints of our body. It is a
type of glycosaminoglycan, which is a long chain of sugars
(polysaccharide). Hyaluronic acid plays a vital role in maintaining
the health and hydration of tissues. It has the remarkable ability
to bind and retain water molecules, contributing to the moisture
and plumpness of the skin. In fact, hyaluronic acid has the
capacity to hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water, making it
an excellent hydrating agent.
In its natural form, innate Hyaluronic acid (HA) lasts for around
24 hours before it is metabolised and new HA is formed to take
its place. Over the course of time, the volume of HA in our skin
declines by around 1% every year from the age of 25. This means
that our skin will begin to deflate in thickness and volume, also
losing the ability to retain moisture. This can make our skin look
lacklustre and begin to lose resilience and stretch.
MISCONCEPTIONS ABOUT HA
Traditional HA is manufactured from a bacterial by-product and
is biocompatible with our body. Having a long chain, means that
it cannot be deposited on the skin surface and absorbed into the
dermis from where it is lost. This is a common misconception, as
so many skincare companies use HA in their creams and serums.
Whilst these do hold a position in the health of the skin, they can
only help to moisturise the epidermis of the skin. So, to deliver
it back into the dermis, we must inject the HA in to bypass the
epidermal barrier. As cosmetic injectors, we can then vary the
depth of the HA deposition depending upon the rheology (or
material properties) of the HA gel.
HOW HA WORK IN FILLERS
Traditional HA dermal filler gels cannot hold the exact same
structure as those that are naturally present in the human body,
or they too will be metabolised within 24 hours. This would not be
desirable. Instead, HA chains are cross-linked with BDDE. BDDE
is a molecule also known as 1,4-butanediol diglycidyl ether. It is a
chemical compound commonly used in the production of crosslinked
hyaluronic acid dermal fillers. BDDE acts as a cross-linking
agent that helps stabilize the hyaluronic acid molecules, enhancing
their durability and longevity within the body.
During the manufacturing process of hyaluronic acid fillers,
BDDE is added to the hyaluronic acid solution. It reacts with the
hydroxyl groups present in the hyaluronic acid molecules, forming
chemical bonds between them. This cross-linking process creates
a more stable and cohesive gel that resists degradation by natural
enzymes in the body and extends the lifespan of the filler.
The addition of BDDE in hyaluronic acid fillers allows for various
consistencies and densities, depending on the desired application.
The concentration of BDDE can influence the viscosity and gel
properties of the filler, affecting its suitability for different areas of
the face and specific cosmetic concerns.
HA gels that are cross-linked with BDDE traditionally become
more rigid as the number of cross-linking increases. This means
that the gel will need to be injected more and more deeply as the
BDDE concentration rises. This is because a thick, viscous gel is
hard and does not have stretch.
It will feel like bone, so it makes sense that the thicker the gel, the
deeper the injection must be to place the dermal filler gel close to
the bone. An example of a highly cross-linked dermal filler gel is
Teoxane Ultradeep, which has 25mg/ml and 10% BDDE crosslinking.
This gel feels just like bone.
Conversely, the less cross-linking there is in the dermal filler HA
gel, the closer to the surface the gel should be injected, as the gel
will have little strength but more flexibility. The weakly crosslinked
gel will move and feel like soft skin. An example of a less
cross-linked gel is Teoxane Redensity 2, which has 15mg/ml of HA
and 5.5% cross-linking with BDDE. This gel is designed for the tear
trough region, which is unique as there is no fat layer in this small
area, meaning that the gel being injected here needs to be soft to
avoid detection.
WHAT ARE RESILIENT HYALURONIC ACIDS AND WHY DO WE
NEED THEM?
Unlike traditional HA dermal filler gels, resilient HA gels have
stretch but still have the capacity for projection, which is unique
to have these two properties. Resilient hyaluronic acid fillers are
also crosslinked with 1,4-butanediol diglycidyl ether (BDDE), but
this is done using a unique manufacturing process, the Preserved
Network technology, that results in a greater preservation of HA
chains. This means that they require a low degree of modification
(MoD) to provide clinically relevant product properties.
When we compare traditionally cross-linked HA gels to resilient
HA gels (RHA), the RHA gels show an improved ability to recover
their shape after both compression and stretching, which is
perfect for the dynamic movements of the face. The superficial fat
generally moves and stretches a great deal, whereas the deep fat is
static in nature. Placing a resilient filler in the superficial fat layer is
ideal, whereas a traditional or robust resilient filler can be placed in
the deep fat layer.
RHA gels again have differing degrees of BDDE cross linking,
ranging from 1.9% to 4.0% if we consider the Teoxane range of
fillers. This makes them suitable for the dynamic areas around
the perioral region, the cheeks which rise and fall during smiling
and other facial dynamic movements, and for those patients with
low body fat. Patients with low body fat are essentially more
problematic to treat with traditional HA dermal fillers as there
APJ 78

is little facial fat present to hide or cushion any injected gels. So,
upon movement, it becomes even more crucial that the dermal
filler gel is not detectable and should closely resemble the natural
layers of the face.
A CASE STUDY
Louise is a 20-year-old female who is fit and healthy, with no
significant medical history. She has completed orthodontic
treatment and has a class 1 occlusion with good oral health.
She presented with some mild deficiencies in the mid-face, with
some evidence of the mid-cheek groove and a flattened Ogee
curve. After considering the options, Louise elected to have some
augmentation in the mid-face area to improve these small deficits
to elevate her natural beauty.
Considering the patient’s early age and the areas to be treated,
we elected to perform the entire treatment plan with resilient
hyaluronic acid. It is important to note that one smiling, she has
fullness in her cheek. With this in mind, a softer resilient HA was
planned for the superficial fat pad enhancement to not overproject
or fill the cheek.
Given the early signs of deflation, the treatment plan was:
1. Place Teoxane RHA4 (23mg/ml, 4% BDDE modification) in
the lateral and medial Sub-orbicularis oculi fat pad (SOOF).
This was chosen for its projection ability but resilient nature.
This product was placed supra-periosteal in the deep fat
pad as described. A total of 1 syringe, 1.2ml was used with
delivery via a cannula (25g, 38mm).
It is important to consider your patients movement when assessing
treatment and the dermal filler gels that you are using. I would
recommend that you take photos or video with animation. This
helps you decide whether to deliver the dermal filler in the deep
fat pads, or in the superficial layers, but also what rheology to look
for when treating the patient.
As mentioned in previous articles, whenever practical and
possible, my preferred delivery method is a cannula. This
reduces my risk of bruising for the patient, and also reduces
the risk of vascular occlusion to 1:40,000, when compared with
needle delivery (1:6410). This is considered the safest delivery
method by a global consensus of multi-national experts to avoid
complications for HA based fillers.
A review of Louise was undertaken one week after treatment and
the patient was satisfied with her natural and soft enhancement,
which respects her age and facial features.
Before proceeding with any treatment, you should always consider
the medical and dental health of the patient, and only proceed
with treatment that you are qualified and trained to provide. APJ
Ref: (2016, https://doi.org/10.1097/PRS.0000000000002184)
To learn how to assess, treat and select the correct products for
your patients, please visit www.dermaldistinction.com to find our
more. www.dermaldistinction.com (03) 9859 7859.
2. Place Teoxane RHA3 (23mg/ml, 3.6% BDDE modification) in
the superficial medial and middle cheek fat pads. A total of 2
syringes, 2ml was used with cannula delivery (25g, 50mm).
3. Enhance the lips with Teoxane RHA2 (23mg/ml, 3.1%
BDDE modification) was used to create a soft, enhanced lip
structure. This was placed in the superficial fat layer of the lip,
above the orbicularis oris muscle. A total of 0.8ml was used
with a cannula, making 3 entry points (25g, 38mm).
APJ 79

BUSINESS WISDOM
WISDOM THAT
NEVER FAILS
Part II - The Winning Mindset
for Successful Negotiations
Tina Viney
I am so often reminded that as much as I love knowledge and
learning, this only provides me with the FACTS. While I may possess
the knowledge and the facts, these will not profit me if I sit on them
and do nothing.
Wisdom, on the other hand, is about how I can proceed to APPLY
these facts and enhance my life or business. Wisdom is the fuel
that allows us to bring to life the value of our knowledge so that
we can benefit from it in a tangible way. To succeed in life, we
therefore need a balance of both – knowledge and wisdom.
In the summer issue of APJ started a series exploring some of
the principles of wisdom based on the wisdom of King Solomon.
We discussed the value of wise counsel when making important
decisiaons. In this article we will look at principles on the winning
mindset that will serve us for successful negotiations.
When conducting business, we don’t have a choice as to whether
we negotiate. The only choice we have is how well we sharpen
and utilise negotiation tactics. We all go through some sort of
negotiation each day. We promote products, services, train our
staff in both procedures as well as attitude, communication and
the correct approach when addressing our clients.
Supervisors use negotiating techniques and strategies to motivate
employees, set budgets and timelines. Employees negotiate for
promotions and raises; parents negotiate with their children to
clean up and spouses negotiate each time they decide how to
manage their time or finances. So what are the key principles for
successful negotiations?
THE MOST IMPORTANT ELEMENT - TRUST
First and foremost, successful negotiations are based on trust and
confidence in that the exchange will benefit both parties. Tactics
and techniques alone do not work if they are not based on pure
intentions that will resonate through your attitude towards the
negotiation process. If you are perceived as only being interested in
‘closing a deal’ or is establishing compliance with your staff, without
an understanding of how the requirement will impact them, this
will not go down well. Therefore, establishing a genuine connection
must be based on pure motives of honesty, integrity and genuine
consideration that the exchange with benefit both parties. The is
paramount for the necessary trust to be established.
THE ELEMENT OF COMPROMISE
It is important to realise that good negotiating skill-building
requires compromise. Both you and the other party will have a
desired outcome in mind and the ultimate result will likely fall
somewhere in between those two objectives. Strive to create a
conversation that respectful and courteous to find a resolution
that can become a win-win for both.
Studies have identified six important negotiation strategies that
may be useful in helping you achieve the successful negotiations in
both business and in your personal life:
1. The negotiating process is continual, not an individual event:
Good negotiating outcomes are a result of good relationships and
relationships must be developed over time. Because of that, good
negotiators are constantly looking for opportunities to enhance
the relationship and strengthen their position. In some cases, the
result of the negotiation is determined even before the individuals
meet for discussion.
2. Think positive: Many negotiators underestimate themselves
because they don’t perceive the power they have inside of
themselves accurately. In most negotiating situations, you have
more power than you think. You must believe that the other
party needs what you bring to the table as much as you want the
negotiation to be a success. Also, be sure that that positivity is
visible during the negotiation. Be aware of the tone of your voice
and non-verbal body language while interacting with the other party.
APJ 80

3. Prepare: Information is crucial for strategic negotiation.
Research the history, past problems or any sensitive points of the
other party. The more knowledge you have about the situation
of the other party, the better position you’ll be in to negotiate.
The most important part of preparation is practice! The study of
negotiation requires that you review your approach, your position,
your words so that they reflect the right attitude. A careless
word can kill your good intention, so it is useful to review your
communication motives and approach.
4. Think about the best and worst outcome before the
negotiations begin: Don’t be upset if things don’t go your way. In
these instances, it’s a good time to re-evaluate all positions and
return to the table. In most cases, as long as you know the highest
and lowest expectations of each party a middle ground can usually
be reached in the overlapping areas.
5. Be articulate and build value: This is a key negotiation tactic
that separates the good negotiators from the masters. When you
have a strong belief in what you’re negotiating for, you will shine.
Become a master at presenting your thoughts and ideas so that
others see the value. A tip on how to do that well:
• Be direct when presenting a situation. Be clear about what is
expected. Discuss ways to apply how it can happen.
• Don’t simply talk about what needs to happen. Discuss the
consequences – how your solution will be beneficial to the
other party.
6. Give and Take: When a person gives something up or concedes
on part of a negotiation, always make sure to get something in
return as a bargaining strategy. Otherwise, you’re conditioning the
other party to ask for more while reducing your position and value.
Maintaining a balance will establish that both parties are equal.
Here are a few further rules that will help you achieve a good
outcome through your negotiating process:
What is the first rule of negotiation?
It is important to understand the position and interests of the
other side before beginning any negotiation. Ask questions and
gather information that can guide the negotiation. Practice what
you would like to say and rely on the facts you have collected to
guide the conversation.
How do you negotiate professionally?
Approach the negotiation with a positive and curious frame
of mind. That can be hard since negotiations can sometime be
viewed as hostile interactions. Leaders who begin to negotiate by
understanding creates a more productive conversation.
How do you start a negotiation?
A negotiation can’t begin without initiating a discussion. Break the
stress of getting started by asking the other parties, “tell me…” This
demonstrates an authentic interest in hearing their perspective
and creates a foundation of trust.
What makes a good negotiator?
Good negotiators seek ways to improve relationships, communicate
the value they can offer, and improve their position at the same
time. They are skilled planners, listeners, and persuaders.
IN CONCLUSION
When we start with the right attitude, our negotiating strategies
have more power in establishing trust that can lead to a win-win
situation for all parties concerned. APJ
APJ 81

STAR PERFORMER
NEW
Salicylic Acid
15 % GEL PEEL
TARGETS ACTIVE, SENSITISED
SKIN IMPERFECTIONS
MIX - LAYER - CUSTOMISE
It’s a well-known fact that cell turnover
slows dramatically as we age. The
impact of this decline is present in the
skin in a variety of ways. While some
patients experience an increase in
ageing symptoms, such as fine lines and
wrinkles, others may experience acne,
hyperpigmentation – or a combination
of them all.
Chemical peels are still considered one of
the most effective ways to address these
concerns, however, there’s no such thing
as “one peel fits all”. In the past, this has
led to clients not feeling satisfied with their
results as not all their concerns have been
addressed. Dermalogica’s pro power peel
is totally re-shaping the peel market as it
is designed to be customised, addressing
individual patient needs with strong
innovative formulas without creating
unnecessary inflammation.
The peel system comprises of a prepping
solution, three individual peel formulas and
a neutralising solution. Pro power peel is
completely unique in its formulation due
to the ability for each peel formula to be
applied as a single peel choice or for the
various peels to be combined on a gauze or
layered to target individual client concerns.
Due to the peel’s potency and low pH,
therapists need to fully understand how
the formulas work and how to prepare
their clients’ skin and look after them
post-procedure. The three peel formulas
address the three main client concerns of
ageing, pigmentation and breakouts.
• PowerClear Peel is a potent clearing peel formulated to target blemishes, prevent
breakouts, reduce sebum production, and visibly diminish post-inflammatory
hyperpigmentation.
Power Clear Peel is formulated with 2% Salicylic Acid, a lipophilic BHA able to
disrupt desmosome cohesion while penetrating the sebaceous gland to help remove
impaction plugs.10% Mandelic Acid (from Bitter Almonds) and 15% Malic Acid (from
Apples) speed up cell turnover rate to help even skin tone. Dermalogica’s patented
Terpineol-Thymol Complex helps suppress sebum production and works with skin’s
natural microbiome to kill breakout-causing bacteria in minutes.
• The UltraBright Peel utilises the power of lactic acid to brighten dull skin, hydrate
and minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
This innovative formula incorporates 30% Lactic Acid, to stimulate exfoliation
by decreasing corneocyte cohesion. Lactic acid is a popular ingredient due to its
humectant properties but also its size. As an acid with a larger molecular size, it
penetrates the skin more slowly and is therefore less irritating to the skin. Phytic
Acid aids in cell turnover, brightening the skin and providing antioxidant benefits
and Mucor Fungal Extract mimics the effect of Cathepsin D (a proteolytic enzyme
that plays an important role in maintaining a normal skin barrier), to deliver an
efficient exfoliation.
• AdvancedRenewal Peel is a powerful peel formulated to resurface the skin to help
fight the visible effects of Advanced Glycation End-products (AGEs), minimizing the
appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and evening skin tone.
• 30% Glycolic Acid decreases corneocyte cohesion and enhances skin desquamation,
facilitating exfoliation and cell renewal, while Opuntia Ficus-Indica Flower
Extract stimulates natural desquamation enzymes involved in the degradation of
intercellular adhesion structures in the corneum enabling skin clarity and luminosity.
Glycolic Acid’s small molecular size allows it to penetrate skin quickly and easily, so
it’s important to monitor skin for erythema and irritation during application.
When used as singular peels, in combination, or as part of a treatment program,
clinicians are able to target the three main skin concerns for their patients and
achieve outstanding results and patient satisfaction. APJ
Contact us: 1800 659 118 or go to
por.dermalogica.com.au
APJ 82

APJ 83

TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS
PROVEN FACTORS TO
ENHANCE SUSTAINABLE
BUSINESS GROWTH
The Forbes Business Development
Council is known for networking with
some of the world’s leading business
minds and enterprises. They recently
asked an expert panel to provide insight
into proven factors that enhance
sustainable business growth. Here are
just four of their top recommendations:
1. Value Delivery: Hand-in-hand
with growth is the value that you
offer to your client or customer.
Demonstrating that value from the
start of the relationship not only
helps you secure future loyalty, but
helps you improve your pipeline via
word-of-mouth referrals. Growth
has a multifaceted gear wheel
attached to it that involves many
aspects of nurturing new and existing
relationships and defining value.
Activity: Define what value you
promised your client and evaluate
how well you are delivering, not just
during their first visit, but consistently
throughout the visits to your business.
Another consideration is to step back
and review whether your clients’ needs
have changed and whether you will need
to update what you are offering them.
2. Customer-Needs: A business caters
to customers, consumers, patients or
whomever benefits from the output.
The best way for sustainable growth
and success of any relevant strategy
is to focus continuously on customer
problem-solving or feedback and
improving the service to them and
their successful experience with
what you offer them. This builds
continuous consumption, trust, value
and growth!
Activity: One way to ensure that
your clients know you are consistently
focused on providing them with
the very best is to send them a brief
questionnaire asking them for their
feedback on any potential new
developments you are considering
introducing. Stress to them that you
consider it a priority to allow them to
have input in any new services you plan
to introduce, because their opinion is
important to you.
3. An Outside-In Look: Most business
and executives spend their time
looking at the world from where they
sit—an inside-out look. To achieve
sustained growth in the marketplace,
experts advise the value of also
having an outside-in look. First, they
need to understand the world they
operate in. Second, they should have
realistic recognition of the value their
company provides or can provide and
then develop strategies that link the
two effectively.
Activity: You cannot achieve a global
perspective just by interacting with
your own closed community and with
people or circumstances that don’t
challenge you to consider a different
viewpoint. One of the best ways to
do this is to connect with experts who
specialise in researching changes in
the marketplace and new industry
developments that you may not be
aware of. By all means, support your
supplier but also attend conference
programs that will exposure to new
perspectives that may be outside of
your immediate sphere of information
or knowledge – an excellent example is
the APAN Conference.
APJ 84

Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcome
4. Team Buy-In: Growth strategies
can be invigorating or debilitating
depending on context and leadership.
The worst mistake a leader can make
is to lose sight of the importance of
buy-in. If your team does not believe
in the mantra of growth, all strategic
elements will fall flat. Ignite passion
toward a growth goal by making
meaning and illustrating how each
member contributes to the goal.
Activity: Team building meetings with
your staff should not just be about
teaching them something new, or
what you expect from them. Allow
them to share in how they perceive a
new product or the introduction of a
new service and measure their level of
excitement in believing and promoting
it. One way you can achieve this is
allowing your staff to experience a new
product or treatment for themselves
and ask them to give you honest
feedback. This will expose their true
feelings or belief in the new product or
service you wish to introduce. If they
buy-in to their benefits they will most
likely take ownership to effectively
promote it to their clients. It is also
a common fact that when promoting
something new, potential consumers
will invariably ask you if you have also
tried it.
AUSTRALIAN TAXATION
OFFICE ALERT
The Australian Taxation Office (ATO) has
received an increase in notifications about
employers not meeting super guarantee
(SG) obligations. They have reached
out to organisations such as APAN to
communicate the following message:
If employers fail to meet the SG
obligations, pay late, don’t pay in full or
allocate to the wrong super fund, the ATO
can be notified by employees. The ATO
review every employee notification (EN)
received and will pursue any
outstanding amounts.
Once the ATO receives an EN about
incorrect or missed contributions,
they may notify other employees and
can take firmer actions including the
commencement of legal proceedings to
recover amounts owed.
To meet SG obligations, avoid additional
costs, penalties and the need for
employees to contact the ATO
please ensure:
• Pay employees their SG in full and
on time by the quarterly due date
• Pay the correct super rate of 10.5%
which will increase to 11% on
1 July 2023.
• Pay to your employee’s correct
nominated fund.
If a discrepancy is discovered and
employers are unable to pay in full, the
ATO will work with them to establish a
payment plan. We urge employers to seek
help from the ATO if they find themselves
in this predicament, as ignoring the
situation will only escalate to
further problems.
If businesses need assistance, have made
a late payment or missed a payment, they
can contact the ATO to find a solution.
For more information, visit the ATO’s
website at ato.gov.au/superforemployers
APJ 85

SCIENTIFIC NEWS
SPF 50 SUNSCREEN WITH
ANTIOXIDANT IMPROVES
DERMIS ECHOGENICITY
AND REDUCES REDNESS
We know the importance of sun
protection and antioxidants; combining
the two is not new, yet always good to
see the evidence.
The use of an SPF 50 sunscreen with
high antioxidant potential allows for a
reduction in erythema after 15 days of
usage. This was the outcome of a small
study in Brazil with 40 participants
(100% men; age range 18 to 28 years),
of whom 36 were without previous
photoprotection habits. Various
exclusion factors were used to get the
representative sample.
Various sunscreen formulations were
standardised to SPF broad spectrum 50,
with 0.05% Butylated hydroxytoluene
added as the antioxidant.
Participants were instructed to use
once daily for 15 days, applying to the
face before sun exposure. However, the
number of everyday applications and the
sunscreen application’s weight and volume
were not regulated.
Investigators noted that 86% of
participants believed their skin was
softer and less reddish, which was
confirmed via Macroscopic images
and colourimeter results.
Improvement was noted in dermis
echogenicity, which researchers believe
was correlated with the reduction in
inflammation; however, skin hydration and
skin barrier parameters did not change.
Image A: Observation of redness reduction
after 15 days as viewed in the macroscopic
images and Image B. Skin texture
improvement and decrease in redness was
also perceptible after 15 days.
Infante, V. H. P., & Maia Campos, P. M. B. G.
(2022, November 27). Applying sunscreen
SPF 50 with high antioxidant capacity for
15 days improves the dermis echogenicity
and reduces the reddish skin undertone.
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. Online.
doi:10.1111/jocd.15528
We all know that a broad-spectrum
SPF 50 is needed for sun protection.
However, adding a simple antioxidant in
this study made a significant difference.
Such products are available in Australia,
yet not many currently. Hopefully, we will
see more antioxidant additions to sun
protection products. APJ
SEVERE PERSISTENT
URTICARIA FOLLOWING
LASER HAIR REDUCTION
While laser hair removal is a ubiquitous
procedure, it is not without possible
adverse events.
Urticaria is frequently a common
transient situation; however, not so great
if it lasts. Persistent urticaria is a rare yet
known event which this case study of one
patient indicates.
As I often content – it is all about
the consultation. The patient was a
Fitzpatrick type III 30-year-old male. The
treatment was set at 755 nm alexandrite
laser with an intensity of 16 J/cm2,
although unknown what qualification the
practitioner had.
The client had severe year-round
environmental allergies and
dermatographism. His daily medications
included fexofenadine, levocetirizine,
montelukast, fluticasone propionate nasal
spray, and quarterly prednisone tapers for
sinus polyps and allergy flares. Medication
allergies included penicillin.
If you perform laser hair removal, would
you treat such a client? It is not surprising
that he reacted in the way he did.
APJ 86

Research and Scientific New Developments
In every issue of the journal, Terry Everitt our scientific educator, conveys a few items of scientific interest. In italics, are his
thoughts on the subject matter of the research study.
Within 3–4h, he developed a severe
urticarial eruption limited to the treated
areas associated with intense pruritus,
which persisted for 5–6 days.
Immediate post-treatment Erythema
surrounding hair follicles.
Four hours post-treatment, urticarial
papules coalesce into plaques on the
abdomen and trunk.
Twenty-four hours post-treatment,
Urticarial papules coalesce into plaques
on the abdomen and trunk.
Topical betamethasone 0.05% was
prescribed twice daily, as well as
diphenhydramine 25 mg daily, and his
regular allergy regimen did not
provide relief.
Amazingly he went back for two other
treatments, each with the same almost
outcome yet with less reaction each time.
Dorgham, N., Witkoff, B., Weiss, E., &
Glick, B. (2022). Severe persistent urticaria
following laser hair reduction. Journal of
Cosmetic Dermatology. 21:6698–6701.
DOI: 10.1111/jocd.15390
The study did not disclose if his medical
history was known before treatment
– somehow, I do not think so. A solid
consultation across all possible areas is
required each time. Particularly returning
clients, as you never know what the client has
been up to since last seen, which could derail
your treatment thoroughly. APJ
INTRINSIC OR EXTRINSIC
EFFECT ON COLLAGEN
TYPE I AND IV
We know the primary cause of
exogenous skin ageing is long-term
exposure to UV radiation. While there
are many types of collagen Type I (COL
I) is the most abundant in the skin. This
and collagen Type VI (COL VI) - primarily
for dermal matrix organisation - was the
subject of this study.
In healthy tissues (youthful skins and skins
with biological ageing), COL l staining
confirmed that collagen fibres are thin and
loose in the papillary dermis and thicker
with homogeneity.
However, over time, they become weaker
and lost their homogeneity.
The results show that solar elastosis
changes the structure of the skin’s
collagen, and solar elastosis was observed
in the skin tissues with photo-ageing
without appearing to be affected by its
appearance concerning age.
Solar radiation divides the collagen fibres
more rapidly than normal biological ageing
and replaces the collagen fibres of the
skin. COL I and COL VI are expressed
differently along the dermis of healthy
skin tissue and the skin tissue subject to
photo-ageing.
This study also confirmed that in the
dermis, UV radiation divides the collagen
more rapidly than in biological ageing.
Figure 5. (p. 8) (a) Histochemical staining of
hematoxylin–eosin: youthful tissue, biological
ageing, and photoaging. (b) Anti-COL
staining: youthful tissue, biological ageing,
and photoaging. (c) Anti-COL VI staining:
youthful tissue, biological ageing,
and photoaging.
Biskanaki, F., Kefala, V., Lazaris, A., &
Rallis, E. (2023). Aging and the Impact
of Solar Ultraviolet Radiation on the
Expression of Type I and Type VI Collagen.
Cosmetics, 10 (48). https://doi.org/10.3390/
cosmetics10020048
Interestingly, the study found the severity
of solar elastosis is not entirely related to
age. It was observed that in people over 75
years of age, solar elastosis was milder than
at age 65, different from the expected more
severe action in aged skin. APJ
APJ 87

SCIENTIFIC NEWS
SKIN MICROBIOME
PROTECTS AGAINST UVR
It is evident that the skin microbiome
helps protect the skin against infection,
acting as a natural and effective
barrier against pathogens present in
the environment.
The overall relationship of the microbiome
with the host is nuanced, as certain strains,
even of the same microbe, may have
beneficial or adverse effects on the skin,
given the right mix of circumstances, thus
impacting its barrier function.
A new paper explores the role of skin
bacteria in protecting against solar
damage in lifeguards, who are typically
exposed to the sun for long periods over
the daytime.
The researchers found that certain species
of bacteria (specifically Sphingomonas
and Erythrobacteraceae) were enriched
following seasonal exposure to the sun in
10 lifeguards examined via skin samples
before and after the summer set in.
The well-known E. coli could not
resist more than a minimal amount of
radiation. In contrast, Sphingomonas and
Erythrobacteraceae showed high levels
of resistance to damage caused by UVR
at 254 nm and 312 nm, with exposures
ranging from 8-20 mJ/sq. cm. and 122-366
mJ/sq. cm, respectively, as they produce
potentially protective compounds.
Indeed, further analysis showed that
Sphingomonas spp—reduced reactive
oxygen species levels in
human keratinocytes.
The study thus showed that bacterial
species able to protect the skin against
the adverse effects of solar UVR increase
following long periods of solar exposure,
despite the lack of any significant change
in the overall composition of the
skin microbiome.
Credit: ART-ur/Shutterstock.com
Harel, N., Shtern, N. Reshef, L., Biran,
D., Ron, E., & Gophna, U. (2023). Skin
microbiome bacteria enriched following
long sun exposure can reduce oxidative
damage: a 5-month preliminary
study of ten lifeguards. Research in
Microbiology, 104059. doi: 10.1016/j.
resmic.2023.104059.
Compounds produced include ubiquinone
10, glycosphingolipids (GSLs), a yellow
carotenoid pigment from Sphingomonas,
and glucagon-like peptides (GLPs) and
carotenoids from Erythrobacteraceae.
Carotenoids are potent antioxidants, while
GSLs help preserve skin barrier integrity.
These two microbes may be unfamiliar
to you. Yet, there are smaller parts of the
skin’s biome, and prior studies have
shown that Sphingomonas inhibits
cellular senescence and promotes
skin restructuring. APJ
APJ 88

Research and Scientific New Developments
In every issue of the journal, Terry Everitt our scientific educator, conveys a few items of scientific interest. In italics, are his
thoughts on the subject matter of the research study.
DOES STRESS INCREASE
BIOLOGICAL AGE?
It is established that one’s biological
age is not entirely associated with the
chronological-type age of individuals.
In the present study, researchers
investigated whether biological age could
be increased or reduced by stress using
DNAm clocks and various stressful stimuli.
Severe stress transiently increased
biological age, as read out by multiple
advanced biomarkers of ageing, which
reversed upon recovery from stress.
Significant fluctuations in the counts
of natural killer (NK) cells, monocytes,
and plasmablasts were observed in the
patients suffering from stress.
The findings indicated a rapid but transient
elevation in biological age under various
stressful stimuli followed by a reversal after
stress recovery, providing valuable insights
into the dynamics of ageing.
Poganik, J. R., Zhang, B., Baht, G. S.,
Tyshkovskiy, A., Deik, A., Kerepesi, C., Yim, S.
H., Lu, A. T., Haghani, A., Gong, T., Hedman,
A. M., Andolf, E., Pershagen, G., Almqvist,
C., Clish, C. B., Horvath, S., White, J. P., &
Gladyshev, V. N. (2023). Biological age
is increased by stress and restored upon
recovery. Cell Metabolism, 35(5),807-820.
doi 10.1016/j.cmet.2023.03.015.
Overall, the study findings highlighted
the increase in biological age caused by
stress and age reversal upon recovery
from stressful events. The study shows
biological age is fluid and exhibits rapid
changes in both directions in epigenetic,
transcriptomic, and metabolomic levels. APJ
CAN OLIVE OIL AFFECT
FIBROBLASTS?
Fibroblasts contribute to maintaining
tissue integrity and homeostasis and are
a vital cell population in wound healing.
For some time, it has been known that
the fibroblast cell population can be
stimulated by some bioactive
compounds such as extra virgin
olive oil (EVOO) polyphenols.
More than 30 different types of phenolics
are present in olive oil, and tyrosol (tyr),
hydroxytyrosol (htyr), and oleocanthal
(ole) are the highest in concentration,
which were the objects of the study,
where researchers evaluated the effects
of these from EVOO on cultured human
fibroblasts’ antigenic profile, migration,
proliferation, and cell cycle.
Outcomes showed significantly
increased growth capacity and migration,
significantly increased key markers in
wound healing, α-actin and fibronectin
expression with no cell cycle alterations
compared to untreated controls.
The increase in α-actin could indicate
differentiation into myofibroblasts
(believed to originate from resident
fibroblasts), promoting tissue regeneration.
González-Acedo, A., Ramos-Torrecillas,
J., Illescas-Montes, R., Costela-Ruiz, V. J.,
Ruiz, C., Melguizo-Rodríguez, L., & García-
Martínez, O. (2023). The Benefits of Olive
Oil for Skin Health: Study on the Effect of
Hydroxytyrosol, Tyrosol, and Oleocanthal on
Human Fibroblasts. Nutrients, 15(9),2077.
https://doi.org/10.3390/nu15092077
No significant differences were observed
in the percentage of cells in any phase of
the cell cycle between treated cells and
untreated controls for any treatment group.
However, this study advances the
knowledge of certain phenolics in wound
healing, allowing the advancement of such
compounds to be developed and delivered
for increased wound healing. APJ
APJ 89

AESTHETICS INDUSTRY BULLETIN
SILICONES IN COSMETICS
ARE THEY SAFE?
Silicone polymers are the most
versatile group of cosmetic ingredients
available. They can greatly improve the
physico-chemical nature of cosmetic
formulations, as well as support product
stability. Yet they come with their own
set of challenges. Here is a recent
dermatologist’s review, as well as reviews
from recent studies.
What are silicones? They are a synthetic
compound that is widely used in various
industries such as electronics, textiles,
some breast implants, skincare, hair
products and makeup in various forms
and modifications. They are divided into
two groups:
• Heavy silicones that have a
cumulative effect and create a seal
on the surface.
• Light ones are less occlusive and
can be easily washed off.
While they are known to create a film
and block, they are often used exactly for
that reason in makeup and haircare. For
example, when used in makeup they act
as a filler over skin imperfections, giving it
a flawless look. In haircare they are used
to coat and protect badly damaged hair
from further drying or splitting and can be
washed off with water.
However, there is a downside to
silicone’s occlusive abilities. Sure, they
keep environmental aggressors out,
but they also lock in some not-so-great
substances. According to dermatologist
Dr Mraz Robinson “For acne-prone patients,
silicones can act as a ‘barrier’ and trap
oil, dirt, and dead skin cells, making acne
worse.” When used in skincare, silicones
may block subsequent ingredients from
reaching the skin, rendering anything
applied after a silicone product pretty
much useless.
It is interesting to note that although in
general, silicone isn’t pore-clogging in and
of itself, it can however create a barrier
that traps other comedogenic substances,
thereby increasing the chance of an
acne flare.
The concern: Some silicone molecules are
very small and are named with a letter (“L”
or “D”) and a number, such as D4, D5, etc.
Different types of silicones are used in
personal care products. One study found
detectable levels of silicones D4, D5, D6,
and D7 in haircare products, skin lotions
and makeup products. So, what is the
concern and are they harmful?
Some types of silicones can harm both
people and the environment. Studies
have shown that D4:
• Can disrupt hormones and act like
oestrogen.
• Is carcinogenic, mutagenic, and
toxic to reproduction.
• Is “very persistent” in the
environment and “very bioaccumulative”.
• It has been shown to causes foetal
loss in rats.
D5, a similar compound was determined
to not be an environmental concern at
current levels. But it can accumulate in
living things. As a result, the European
Chemicals Agency concluded that
D4, D5 and D6 should be phased out
of use as the studies concluded that
these compounds are persistent, bioaccumulative,
and toxic.
If you wish to identify if your products
contain silicone here are some ingredient
names to look for are: dimethicone,
cyclomethicone, cyclohexasiloxane, cetearyl
methicone, and cyclopentasiloxane.
The verdict: According to dermatologist,
it’s definitely not necessary to include
silicones in your skincare, but there
are instances when they are useful, for
example as an occlusive barrier to protect
wounds during their healing phase.
If you’re concerned about green, natural,
or otherwise eco-friendly skincare, then
go silicone-free. There is also the toxicity
issue that makes them questionable for
long-term use. APJ
MENOPAUSE HAIR CARE
With the constant increase in Baby
Boomers reaching menopause, personal
care products that cater for menopausal
care are becoming a standalone category
not just in skincare, but also in
haircare, supporting hair loss with
oestrogen decline.
There are now several shampoo
formulations to address different
issues. For many women, going through
menopause isn’t always a smooth journey
– it can be frustrating. The right set of
products can make a big difference in how
you feel about hair.
How Does Menopause Affect Hair?
Menopause causes hormonal changes
that can contribute to fluctuating
hormonal levels bringing about several
changes across a woman’s body with
some of these changes visible on their
hair and scalp.
During the menopausal stage, many
women experience female pattern hair
loss and hair thinning. Menopausal hair
tends to be thinner and weaker. The
changes in hormonal levels also cause
hair follicles to become smaller overtime.
Smaller hair follicles can contribute to
weaker hair that are more prone to
breaking or falling out. Continuous and
gradual hair breakage and hair loss will
result in much thinner hair. This can cause
much more exposed scalps. Menopausal
hair grows out less and far weaker than
before. Hair also tends to be drier when
women are in their menopausal stage, it
can also be brittle and frizzy, making it
unruly and difficult to look smooth. There
are also women who experience dry,
itchy, and irritated scalp. Because the skin
and scalp produce less sebum, it can lead
to scalp irritation and itching that can also
lead to flaking and even dandruff.
APJ 90

This section presents the latest news, training dates and other
Aesthetic Industry information
These changes can be very distressing,
that’s why a shampoo to address the
different issues can be beneficial. The
most important factors to consider
when selecting a shampoo for hair
during menopause are ingredients, such
as DHT blockers, hair growth and hair
strengthening ingredients. Some of
these include:
• Biotin: A small clinical study has
shown evidence of improved
hair growth in individuals using
products with biotin.
• Caffeine: Research has suggested
that caffeine may be beneficial in
treating hair loss.
• Epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG):
These compounds are found in
green tea and help strengthen the
hair follicles against hair loss.
Here are some of the best rating
shampoos that are recommended for
thinning hair loss due to menopause:
• Plantur 39 Phyto-Caffeine
Shampoo
• Kerastase Densifique Bain Densite
Shampoo
• Waterman’s Hair Growth Shampoo
• Bellisso Biotin Shampoo
• Nioxin System 4
• Alterna Haire Caviar Anti-Ageing
Clinical Densifying Shampoo
On a treatment level, scalp massage
incorporated during a facial treatment
as well as regular scalp stimulating hair
brushing are highly beneficial for improve
blood flow. Scalp massage brushes are
usually designed of smooth silicone
bristles that are short, thick and wideapart
and are relatively inexpensive and
easy to use. They are typically a handheld
brush that can be used daily to stimulate
blood flow and assist in exfoliate.
Additionally, they have a calming and
relaxing effect. APJ
THE RISING POPULARITY
OF LED THERAPY
LED light therapy has been reported to
have gained an over 40% demand since
COVID according to a recent study. The
potential benefits, of non-invasive light
therapy makes an appealing option for
patients looking for treatments that pose
fewer risks and side effects than
other procedures.
Today, any skin clinic that does not
incorporate LED is missing out on not
just added revenue, but also in delivering
the additional benefits. LED stands for
light-emitting diode and delivers excellent
result for human tissue growth and even
wound healing.
The beauty of LED is that the light waves
penetrate the skin at different depths
and trigger biological processes that help
the skin rejuvenate and heal. While LED
offers a variety of colours with differing
wavelengths, however, red LED is
considered the most beneficial. Red light
may improve scarring and help minimise
signs of ageing such as wrinkles. It does
this by acting on the fibroblasts, which are
responsible for collagen production. Red
light is also a useful modality for
reducing inflammation.
With this capacity to penetrate to the
deeper layers of the skin in a non-invasive
way LED is an excellent adjunct therapy
for treating acne, dermatitis, dull skin,
eczema, psoriasis, scarring, skin damage
and wound healing. LED light has also
been proven to have a positive effect on
the brain and in helping to calm and relax
the mind.
Despite the challenges of the past year,
astute businesses who have expanded
their services are experiencing an
increase in client bookings with 34% of
salon and clinic owners reporting that
they have gained new clients over the
past six months, indicating an unexpected
positive outcome even during difficult
times. This growth can be attributed
to the “zoom effect” and the rise of
self-care. During the lockdown period
of the pandemic, consumers reverted
to interacting with their skin therapists
via zoom, while also spending more time
researching and engaging with
selfcare options.
LED has become so popular that we are
now seeing sophisticated and flexible
LED technology developing mask devices
for homecare use. While this will never
replace the in-clinic devices in terms of
their capabilities, the homecare devices
are popular for maintenance purposes. It
is important that practitioners keep up
with these trends offering state-of-the-art
medical light therapies within their clinics,
while also supporting their clients with
their maintenance programs in the best
way possible. APJ
THE FIVE MAJOR
INDUSTRY TRENDS THAT
WILL SHAPE THE FUTURE
OF MEDICAL AESTHETICS
The medical aesthetics industry is in
a period of exciting changes. A recent
report conducted by Good Firms
reviewed the Global Medical Aesthetics
Market and identified four major industry
trends that reveal some important shifts
in consumer preference.
The rapid advances in technology and
treatment innovations combined with
increasingly better educated patients is
driving widespread shifts in the overall
focus and approach to the practice of
medical aesthetics. Emphasis is moving
away from short-term treatments to longterm,
regenerative aesthetic treatments,
rejuvenation or preventative treatments
that maintain healthy, youthful skin and
enhancing an individual’s unique features
to achieve natural-looking results, in
addition to expanding what medical
aesthetics services. Here are the four
major industry trends that were identified:
1. Focus on Healthy Ageing and Overall
Wellness
Aesthetic medicine is not life-saving
APJ 91

AESTHETICS INDUSTRY BULLETIN
but life-lifting. It is not a prescribed
procedure, but an autonomous
decision based on expert advice.
As the awareness of the effects
of beauty and appearance on a
healthier immune system grows,
more people are opting for medical
aesthetics processes.
Psycho-neuro-endocrinoimmunology
is the study of the
effects of psyche, stress, and
depression on the endocrine system
and how it impacts the immune
system, the study revealed. People
with low self-esteem can have
a weaker immune system and
subsequently become more prone
to infections and other diseases.
Aesthetics enhances beauty, reduces
stress, increases self-esteem, and
positively affects health and the
immune system.
A study published in the
International Journal of Surgical
Reconstruction reveals the botulinum
toxin’s impact on facial aesthetics,
psychological well-being, and quality
of life. The evidence-based research
concluded significant improvements
in patients’ psychosocial wellbeing
and quality-of-life
domains in addition to their
physical amelioration.
Today, aesthetic medicine has
become an important branch of
medicine that focuses on healthy
ageing and overall wellness and
improving the quality of
people’s lives.
2. Increased Attention in improving
Body Image
More than ever, people in the age
of social media are constantly fed
the image of the perfect body. There
is growing attention to beauty and
appearance to improve self-esteem,
confidence, health, and quality of
life. The desire for ideal body shapes
and the need to eliminate excessive
fat, cellulite, etc., is also a reason
for enhanced demand for medical
aesthetics products (mainly the body
contouring market), treatments,
and devices.
3. Medical aesthetics consumers’
preferences have shifted to
minimally invasive treatments
From less trauma and lower
expenses to fewer complications and
quick recovery, minimally invasive
medical aesthetics treatments are
less complex than invasive surgeries.
While minimally invasive surgeries
are also surgeries that can result
in blood loss, organ injuries, and
other complications, the risks are
substantially lower than full-fledged
invasive ones.
Also, generally, patients are
discharged on the same day, and
most procedures can be carried out
on an outpatient basis. Minimalinvasive
procedures are also better
alternatives for patients with chronic
pain issues, blood clot problems, etc.
“Minimally invasive procedures are
becoming increasingly popular due
to their ability to achieve results
with less downtime and less risk of
complications. In particular, laser skin
rejuvenation and facial injectable
treatments are growing in popularity.
Non-surgical treatments in general
are becoming more popular as
patients seek out treatments that
are less invasive and require less
recovery time. Laser hair removal,
laser skin resurfacing, and laser vein
reduction are also experiencing
incredible growth in demand”, says
Valentina Bolivar, Mental Health and
Physical Wellness Officer.
4. Demand for Bespoke Treatments
The traditional one-size-fits-all
approach is now replaced with
bespoke treatment plans. Individual
attributes like health, wealth, height,
age, diet, amount of sun exposure,
etc., are taken into consideration to
create tailored plans for patients.
Also, how one’s skin tissues react
to various chemical fillers and
toxins is analysed before a fullfledged
treatment is initiated. With
technology, physicians are now able
to customise treatment plans for
their patients tailored to what will
best work for them.
5. Social Shift: The Increasing Number
of Male Patients
Men are becoming more concerned
about their physical appearances.
The quest for grooming is making
men more receptive to aesthetic
procedures. The global male
aesthetics market is set to grow
with a CAGR of 7.3% over the
forecast period of 2018-2024. There
is a visible social shift that also
adopts and values male apperance
needs. From gaining a competitive
advantage in various professional
fields to boosting the confidence
quotient, men are seeking medical
aesthetics options for various
reasons. Men with photodamaged
skin issues are also seeking corrective
treatments to achieve a fresher look.
While the aesthetic business is
dominated by the females, an
increasing number of males are
undertaking cosmetic procedures
as social expectations around
appearance and ageing
are challenged. APJ
APJ 92

ARE YOUR DOCUMENTS
LEGALLY COMPLIANT
AND UP-TO-DATE?
With the support of their lawyers APAN has
developed 48 REGULATORY AND BEST
PRACTICE DOCUMENTS to help you
streamline your business’s backend, ensure
your regulatory compliance and achieve a
level of excellence and order in how you run
your business.
LEGALLY COMPLIANT INFORM
CONSENT FORMS FOR
• IPL/Laser
• Skin Needling
• Cosmec Taooing
• Photographing your clients
• And much more …
ARE YOUR POLICIES LEGALLY
WRITEN AND UP-TO-DATE?
• Privacy Policy
• Cancellaon Policy
• Refund Policy
STAFFING AGREEMENTS
REGULATIONS
BUSINESS DEVELOPMENTS
ESTABLISHING COMPLIANCE WILL ALLOW YOU TO INTRODUCE A
LEVEL OF CALM, ORDER AND GREATER PEACE OF MIND.
(07) 5593 0360 info@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com/resources

REGULATIONS
AHPRA RELEASES NEW
COSMETIC
ACCREDITATION
Standards to tighten
up the Industry
Cosmetic procedures are considered one of the fastest growing
industries with an estimated expected growth of 27.4% over the
next two years.
Meanwhile, the rise in complaints is a growing concern. Cosmetic
surgery, as well as cosmetic injectable procedures come under
the banner of “medical”, with cosmetic injectable drugs, regulated
under the Medicines, Poisons and Therapeutic Goods Act 2008.
Practitioners who perform these procedures are required to be
registered with Australian Health Practitioner Regulations Agency
(AHPRA) and abide by the guidelines and regulations which come
under the Commonwealth of Australia jurisdiction.
Recently, new cosmetic surgery accreditation standards have been
released as part of a package of reforms designed to clean up
the cosmetic surgery industry, raise standards and better protect
patients. Some of these standards also cover cosmetic nurses and
non-surgical cosmetic procedures.
Health professionals practising cosmetic surgery or who provide
non-surgical cosmetic procedure will need to meet tougher
regulations from 1 July 2023, as the new accreditation standards
came into effect from 19 April.
The new guidelines released by the Australian Health Practitioner
Regulation Agency (AHPRA) and the Medical Board of Australia
(MBA) have put stronger regulations on health professionals
practising cosmetic surgery.
The accreditation standards are part of a suite of measures
designed to make cosmetic surgery safer for consumers. This
includes tougher rules for advertising, stronger guidance for
doctors who perform cosmetic surgery, new safety measures
including referral by a GP, and accreditation of facilities.
The new accreditation standards have been set by the Australian
Medical Council (AMC) and approved by the Medical Board. It
includes new minimum standards for the education, training and
qualification of Australian medical practitioners seeking to practise
as cosmetic surgeons and will require them to provide evidence of
their qualifications to the MBA in order to be approved.
STANDARDS ENDORSEMENT
The Board set up the endorsement on the recommendation
of the cosmetic surgery review. The review involved a sixmonth
examination of the regulation of the sector and made 16
recommendations to improve patient safety.
It is underpinned by a new registration standard, signed off by
Health Ministers. In the biggest crackdown on the $1.4 billion
cosmetic surgery industry, Health Minister Mark Butler and his
state counterparts agreed late last year to reforms focusing on
who can use the title ‘Cosmetic Surgeon’, limiting surgery to
accredited facilities and introducing new safety standards.
Creating an endorsement is the strongest regulatory tool in the
Board’s kit. An endorsement will make it clear on the public
register if a doctor has met high standards – either as a surgeon
with specialist registration, through an endorsement for cosmetic
surgery, or both.
APJ 94

“An endorsement provides a safe alternative for patients who will
continue to seek procedures by doctors who are not surgeons. It creates
a standard where now there is none,” MBA Chair Dr Anne Tonkin said.
Dr Tonkin said while patients can still choose a surgeon for
cosmetic procedures, an endorsement will provide important
information for those who don’t.
“An endorsement will tell patients who is trained and qualified, as does
the title surgeon,” Dr Tonkin said.
Up until now there has been no approved qualification for
cosmetic surgery. Before these changes, essentially any medical
practitioner could perform invasive cosmetic procedures without
having the necessary skills and experience.
“A lot of people don’t know how to look into the qualifications of the
professional they’re seeing,” said AMC community member Jordan
van Rosmalen.
“They just take for granted that because you’re in a medical environment
and the person has ‘Doctor’ in front of their name, they must be
qualified. Now there is a process for this which says this is the standard
required, and that this person has completed a program that meets those
standards.”
An endorsement is one feature in a larger package of reforms that
includes tough new cosmetic industry advertising standards and
higher professional standards for cosmetic surgery.
Cosmetic surgery training providers can now seek AMC
accreditation for their cosmetic surgery training programs.
More details are available on the Australian Medical Council
Limited website www.amc.org.au
APAN is presently receiving enquiries both from members and
non-members alike, who wish to access documentation regarding
these changes and updates on their compliance requirements as
these changes are quite comprehensive. While we can provide
our members with consultation, a starting point is to access the
two key documents from our website www.apanetwork.com.
Both these documents make references to surgical, as well as nonsurgical
cosmetic procedures. They consist of:
1. Position Statement: Nursing and Midwifery Board AHPRA
2. Guideline for Medical Practitioners who perform cosmetic
surgery procedures: from Medical Board AHPRA
APAN is also working with the Cosmetic Nurses Association
reviewing the best way to support that industry sector, as well as
our cosmetic nurse members.
KEY HIGHLIGHTS
Today the most successful salons and clinics are also offering
cosmetic injectable procedures. It is therefore highly
recommended that all sectors of the industry become familiar
with the new guidelines and regulations.
APJ 95

Below we only provide you with a few highlights of some of these
changes, however, please review the full documents which can be
accessed from the APAN website.
NON-SURGICAL COSMETIC PROCEDURES
1. Advertising and Marketing
Advertising material, including practice and practitioner websites
and social media, must comply with the Board’s Guidelines for
advertising for regulated health service, current Therapeutic
Goods Advertising Code, any TGA guidance on advertising nonsurgical
cosmetic procedures and the advertising requirements of
section 133 of the National Law.
Advertising should not glamorise cosmetic procedures, minimise
the complexity of a procedure, overstate results or imply patients
can achieve outcomes that are not realistic.
Detailed guidance for advertising cosmetic surgery is in the
Board’s Guidelines for registered medical practitioners who
advertise cosmetic surgery and is a useful reference when
advertising cosmetic procedures.
2. Financial Arrangements
The medical practitioner must not provide or offer to provide
financial inducements (such as a commission) to agents for
recruitment of patients.
The medical practitioner must not provide or offer to provide free
or discounted procedures to prospective patients, including social
media influencers or users, for promotion of cosmetic procedures
or services.
The medical practitioner must not offer, promote or recommend
financing schemes to patients, either directly or through a third
party, such as loans or commercial payment plans, as part of the
cosmetic procedure. This does not preclude a practitioner from
informing patients of accepted payment methods such as credit
cards (such as Visa, Mastercard), buy now, pay later products (such
as Afterpay, Openpay, Zip Pay) or from offering the option to
pay for a procedure in instalments in a non-commercial payment
arrangement between doctor and patient.
Medical practitioners must not offer patients additional products
or services that could act as an incentive to cosmetic procedures.
Medical practitioners must:
• Ensure that they do not have a financial conflict of interest
that influences the advice that they provide to their patients
• Disclose any financial interests that could be perceived as
influencing the advice that they provide to their patients.
Financial arrangements
3. Training and Experience
Cosmetic procedures must only be provided or cosmetic
injectables prescribed, by medical practitioners with the
appropriate knowledge and training in the specific cosmetic
procedures being offered, and experience to perform the
procedure and deal with all routine aspects of care and any likely
complications.
A medical practitioner who is changing their scope of practice
to include cosmetic procedures is expected to undertake the
necessary training before providing cosmetic procedures or
prescribing cosmetic injectables.
All medical practitioners must participate regularly in continuing
professional development (CPD) that is relevant to their scope
of practice. All medical practitioners whose scope of practice
includes cosmetic procedures, must undertake CPD that includes
activities related to cosmetic procedures, including reviewing their
performance and measuring their outcomes.
4. Provision of Patient Care (including consultation)
by other health practitioners
The medical practitioner is responsible for ensuring that any
other person participating in the patient’s care has appropriate
qualifications, training and experience, and is adequately
supervised as required.
APJ 96

Today the most successful salons and clinics are
also offering cosmetic injectable procedures. It
is therefore highly recommended that all sectors
of the industry become familiar with the new
guidelines and regulations.
When a medical practitioner is assisted by another registered
health practitioner or assigns an aspect of a cosmetic procedure or
patient care to another registered health practitioner, the medical
practitioner who performed the procedure or prescribed the
cosmetic injectable retains overall responsibility for the patient.
This does not apply when the medical practitioner has formally
referred the patient to another registered health practitioner.
5. Complaints
Patients who are dissatisfied have the right to make a complaint.
The practitioner must provide all patients with information
before the procedure, about the range of complaints mechanisms
available including:
• Raising and resolving the complaint directly with the
practitioner who provided the procedure
• Accessing the clinic or facility’s complaint process
• Making a complaint to the health complaints entity in the
state or territory where the procedure was performed
• Making a complaint to AHPRA, the Health Care Complaints
Commission or the Medical Council of NSW (in NSW) or the
Office of the Health Ombudsman (in Queensland).
Medical practitioners must ensure any non-disclosure agreement
(NDA) they use makes clear that a patient, or a person on behalf of
the patient, can still make a complaint to AHPRA, the Health Care
Complaints Commission or the Medical Council of NSW (in NSW)
or the Office of the Health Ombudsman (in Queensland).
CONTRACTING TO A COSMETIC MEDICINE PRACTITIONER
Please ensure that if you are hiring a cosmetic doctor or a
cosmetic nurse to provide their services within your establishment,
you will need to have an appropriate Contract in place that clearly
confirms their obligations for regulatory compliance, best practice
standards, as well as the agreed commercial arrangement on how
you plan to operate together.
Additionally, your contract should clearly state your role as the
contractor, both how you agree to promote their services, as well
as the financial arrangements of your transactions. There are
many elements that need to be clearly stated and agreed upon
for the purpose of best practice standards and to avoid potential
conflict due to any misunderstandings.
APAN has legally drafted templates for these arrangements. We
also include a complete document with the latest updates on
AHPRA Advertising Guidelines for cosmetic procedures.
If are going to collaborate to promote cosmetic medical
procedures within your establishment, you will be required to
become familiar and comply with the AHPRA ADVERTISING
GUIDELINES as there are many restrictions that are not similar
to the ACCC guidelines for promoting non-medical cosmetic
procedures.
It pays to be compliant. APJ
Ref: Australian Nursing and Midwifery Journal
If you wish to access the AHPRA Position Statement for Nurses and
Cosmetic Medical Procedures, there are two documents that you can
access from the APAN Website www.apanetwork.com
APJ 97

NUTRITION
PROTEOLYTIC
ENZYMES -
The Dynamic Catalysts for healthy
digestion and skin health
By Tina Viney
With the demand for natural ingredients in skincare, when looking
at skincare product lists sometimes you would think that you are
looking at a food label. With ingredients like enzymes, vitamins,
probiotics, herbs and essential oils the line between food and
personal care is becoming blurred.
Enzymes play a key role in skin health and wellbeing. When
taken internally, they support healthy metabolism and nutritional
absorption. However, when included in skincare their role it to
enhance skin health through exfoliation of dead cells and skin
renewal. Let’s take a deeper look into enzymes and review their
benefits in both instances.
WHAT IS AN ENZYME?
First let’s look at the role of enzymes in the body. Enzymes are
chemicals that speed up the rate of chemical reactions without
being consumed in the reaction themselves. They’re incredibly
useful in biological processes because they can make a reaction
that normally requires that dangerously-high temperatures to
occur at normal body temperatures. In the food industry, enzymes
are used to help ripen fruits, tenderise meats and produce things
like wine and cheese.
Enzymes can be introduced into the body by adding raw food into
our diet. They are important because they are crucial to digestion
and the maintenance of good health. We should think about the
role of enzymes in very simple terms: An enzyme is the “life force”
that activates vitamins, minerals, proteins, and other physical
components within our body.
There are two major enzyme systems in the human body. One is
digestive and the other is metabolic. The digestive enzymes help
break down all of the food that we eat so that it can be absorbed
by the body. The metabolic enzymes on the other hand, help to
run all of the body systems, from the respiratory system to the
nervous system.
There are seven categories of food, or digestive enzymes and
each one has a different activity. For example:
• Amylase is the enzyme that is responsible for breaking down
starches in our diet.
• Cellulase is responsible for breaking down fibres.
• Lactase on the other hand breaks down dairy products.
• Lipase enzymes breaks down fats.
• Maltase breaks down grains.
• Protease breaks down proteins.
• Sucrase breaks down sugars.
As we can see, enzymes are important in breaking down our
food for digesting. They are vital because without them our
bodies would not be able to absorb nutrients through our
digestive system.
ENZYMES AND THE SKIN
When it comes to skincare the enzyme bromelain is very
important. Bromelain is a mixture of enzymes found naturally in
the juice and stems of pineapples (Ananas comosus). Bromelain
is a proteolytic enzyme, which is an enzyme that helps you digest
the proteins in foods. Papaya and pineapple are two of the richest
plant sources of proteolytic (protein-dissolving) enzymes.
Bromelain used in skin care treatments is very effective in
gently removing the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin by
enzymatic exfoliation. Enzymatic activity destroys the keratin of
dead cells and the debris, allowing the skin to breathe and feel
more alive and vibrant. When you remove dead tissue during
exfoliation, the surface of the skin becomes more refined due
to the removal of the keratinised skin around the edges of pores
making them less visible. Exfoliation also reveals the moisture
underneath the tissue.
As we know, when the skin has been exfoliated from the
accumulation of dead cells you notice a visual difference in the
tone and smoothness of the skin. The follicles are clearer, and the
skin is softened and hydrated, allowing for a deeper penetration of
serums and moisturisers.
Papaya, pineapple and pumpkin are probably the most common
ingredients used in skincare for their high proteolytic enzymatic
properties. Enzymes have been pushed to the forefront of
research due to their benefits in skin health, with exciting new
research revealing how enzymes can improve skin appearance and
prevent skin problems.
STUDIES CONFIRM BENEFITS
Although proteolytic enzymes have a history of use in skincare
products it is not known whether they simply induce superficial
exfoliation or with continued use, can alter epidermal and dermal
skin properties. A study conducted in 2007 and published in the
International Journal of Cosmetic Science examined whether
proteolytic enzymes enhanced skin exfoliation and tone when
treated with an aspartyl dependent acid protease. The research
confirmed that the enzyme improved the appearance of the skin
over time, and changes were noted in both the epidermis
and dermis.
TEST RESULTS
Test participants applied 15% enzyme containing serum and
a simple moisturiser twice daily for three months; a matched
control group applied the same serum (without enzyme). Changes
APJ 98

in skin smoothness and texture, the depth and number of lines
and wrinkles, and epidermal and dermal firmness and thickness
were examined in a double‐blind fashion. Treatment with
15% enzyme product(s) resulted in significant improvement in
epidermal properties after one month and both epidermal and
dermal properties after three months. The control group showed
modest improvements in surface properties only. These results
demonstrate that significant appearance benefits can be derived
from use of exfoliative proteolytic enzymes. Such improvements
are the result of changes to the epidermis and dermis and are
strikingly similar to results observed with higher concentrations
of AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids). These studies demonstrated that
cosmetic enzyme products can lead to significant improvements in
the appearance and structure of the skin.
ENZYMATIC SKIN EXFOLIATION MECHANISM
The way that enzymes work on the skin is in their ability to break
down protein bonds that attach dead skin cells to the uppermost
layers of the skin. This triggers the exfoliation processes speeding
up the removal of only dead skin cells. The results are similar to those
experienced with Alpha Hydroxy Acids, and over time studies have
shown that regular use of enzymes can improve the skin structure.
Enzyme products are generally very gentle in their action and
suitable for all skin types, even sensitive skin. They therefore
have a place in your treatment plan. They can help soften the skin,
minimise the appearance of pores, reduce blemishes/spots and
improve overall skin texture, but in a less aggressive manner than
acid peels. Additional to exfoliation, enzymes also have an antiinflammatory
action.
INGESTIBLE BENEFITS TO DIGESTION
Internally, the action of enzymes helps pass nutrients from the
blood to nourish all the organs including the skin internally. Some
enzymes allow the skin to make use of beneficial fats, some help
repair collagen harmed by ultraviolet rays and other enzymes help
neutralise damage to DNA.
Without adequate digestive enzymes the body is unable to fully
break down food, leading to partially digested protein fragments
that can increase inflammation in the body. This is bad news for
the skin, particularly in the case of inflammatory disorders such as
acne and eczema.
Should you suffer from poor digestion, the issue may be improved
by increasing natural digestive enzymes. Some foods, such as
pineapple and papaya, contain enzymes that boost digestion. It is
also possible to use enzyme supplements as a digestive aid, but
also consider their benefit when applied to the skin.
References:
• International Journal of Cosmetic Science - Topical proteolytic
enzymes affect epidermal and dermal properties
• ‘Topical DNA Repair Enzyme May Prevent Skin Cancer’ Journal of
Oncology, 2001 http://www.cancernetwork.com/articles/topicaldna-repair-enzyme-may-prevent-skin-cancer
• Smith W P, Bishop M, Gillis G, Maibach H. in Int J Cosmet Sci.
2007 Feb;29(1):15-21. doi: 10.1111/j.1467-2494.2007.00354.
This double blind study demonstrated that significant appearance
benefits can be derived from use of exfoliative proteolytic enzymes,
comparable to AHA’s.
APJ 99

STAR PERFORMER
ENHANCE YOUR CLIENTS’
WELLBEING AND
SKIN TREATMENT
RESULTS WITH
ZINZINO OILS
Nicky Horkings
Scientists have been saying for years that
Omegas play a very important part in our
health ensuring that we live a healthy life.
Today we can provide Evidenced Based
Testing before and after once having
consumed the Zinzino Balanced Oils
validating its efficacy in supporting and
improving overall wellbeing.
Studies also confirm that high quality fish
oil combined with polyphenols are highly
beneficial in lowering inflammation in the
body and supporting health and wellbeing.
Zinzino is a 16-year-old Publicly
Listed Company based out of
Sweden and Norway.
They provide a range of TGA Listed
products, BalancedOils, Evidenced Based
Testing along with Nutrition, and
Gut Health.
ZINZINO’S EVIDENCE-BASED TESTING
This is our first step towards life in balance.
A unique, scientifically based blood test
that reveals the Omega-6:3 balance in
our bodies, Mental strength, Protection
level and our Cellular Fluidity levels. Once
you have taken the test, you would then
proceed to introduce your clients to the
BalancedOils+. These tests are easy to be
undertaking in your salon or clinic as they
do not require injections.
NOT JUST HIGHEST-GRADE FISH OIL
Zinzino BalancedOil+ concept is at the
core of our product philosophy with our
signature range of Tests and BalancedOils.
Our trademark BalanceOil+ is an
exceptional and all-natural polyphenol
Omega balance food supplement based on
our unique Norwegian formulation with
our fish, pre-harvested extra virgin oil and
naturally sourced VitaminD3.
The fish oils used in BalanceOil+
products have a strict specification for
EPA and DHA that efficiently optimises
the Omega-6:3 Fatty Acid balance in
the body within 120 days. The fish
oils we use are primarily derived from
short-lived, small pelagic fish such as
sardines and anchovies. The fish oils
are derived from whole, unprocessed fish. The oil goes through a refining process to
remove environmental contaminants (if any is present) and is certified as free from heavy
metals and other toxins. LYSI, the manufacturer of BalanceOil+, meets all regulatory
requirements for production, and follows GMPs (Good Manufacturing Practices) for food
and pharmaceutical products.
COMBINED WITH EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
The Spanish Picual olive is selected due to its richness in Omega-9 and very high
antioxidant content. The olives are of pre-harvest quality and in the process the stones
are taken out and only the fruits are cold-pressed, resulting in an extra virgin oil, rich
in Omega-9 (Oleic acid) with very high content of antioxidants called polyphenols
(above 750 mg/kg), both with several beneficial effects. The polyphenols protect the
BalanceOil+ in the bottle but even more importantly, also your cells.
This powerful supply of polyphenols, oleic acid and phytonutrients safely restores the
Omega-6:3 balance in your body. Adjusts and maintains EPA and DHA levels and at the
same time protects your body from oxidative stress at a cellular level.
Customers then test again in 120 days to track their progress. As they say, “Proof
Defeats Doubt,” your clients can then see proof that the BalancedOils+ have worked
and their bodies are coming back into balance. For those who prefer a capsule form of
ingesting the oil Capsule options are also available.
HIGH QUALITY CUSTOM ANALYTICAL SERVICES
Zinzino have contracted Vitas who are a 28-year Independent GMP certified chemical
analysis Laboratory based out of Norway. Twice a week the tests are expressed
couriered to Vitas who then provide a comprehensive report once completed in 14 to
20 days’ time and then emailed back to the Wellness Professional and or Clients. Check
their website http://Vitas.no
GUT HEALTH AND OTHER PRODUCT INNOVATIONS
Zinzino are at the forefront of evidence-based product innovation. To support gut
health they have also developed the Zinobiotic+ a delicious dietary prebiotic fibre blend
that easily dissolved as a drink, include it in a smoothie, within your soup or mix in your
favourite salad dressing for additional support to your gut. Containing 8 natural dietary
fibres that are metabolised in the colon where they grow healthy bacteria. Here is the
link: https://zinzinowebstorage.blob.core.windows.net/product-sheets/ZinoBiotic-plusen-AU.pdf
And to support the health of your family Zinzino have just launched their Tutti-fruity oil
formulated specifically for children.
Attend the APAN Aesthetics Conference and visit our stand. We are proud sponsors of
this event. Delegates who attend in person will receive a complementary 300mls bottle
of Zinzino omega 3 oil. Salons and Clinics can now access these amazing products at
wholesale prices. APJ Nicky Horkings -
Wellness Consultant
and Advocate
+61 407 622 999
NHorkings@Gmail.com
http://zinzinotest.com
APJ 100

Remove the guesswork in optimising your wellbeing. Regain your
cellular energy with the Zinzino evidence-based approach.
Key benefits of Zinzino Polyphenol and
Omega-3 BalanceOil+
• Contributes to normal brain funcon
• Contributes to normal heart funcon
• Contributes to a normal immune system
• Helps maintain good levels of EPA, DHA
and vitamin D in your body
• Helps maintain opmal Omega-6:3 levels in
your body
• Helps maintain opmal polyphenol levels,
protecng blood lipids from oxidave
stress
• Supports healthy and normal eye funcon
• Contributes to normal bones, muscle
funcon, normal teeth and cell division
• Supports normal blood triglyceride, blood
pressure and blood calcium levels
• Supports the body against inflammaon
• Enhances skin health
Aer following your personalised health plan with BalanceOil+, re-test and discover your new levels. Over 95% of
those who take Zinzino Balance products have experience a balanced rao of near 3:1 aer just 120 days.
Enhance wellbeing for you and your clients.
Nicky Horkings 0407 622 999 nhorkings@gmail.com
APJ APJ 101
47

THE POWER OF
KNOWLEDGE
In a time of turbulence and
change, it is truer than ever that
KNOWLEDGE IS POWER.
- John F. Kennedy
APAN is pleased to announce that in
collaborations with several accredited institutions
we have expanded our professional development
courses available through online study.
Additionally, each course has been reviewed and
has been allocated CPD Points acknowledging ongoing
professional development.
There is no better way in boosting your confidence
and improving your business position than
through structured and credible education.
Courses Include
• Pandemic Infection Control
• Pandemic Clinical Infection Control
• Safe Use of Topical Anaesthetic
• Dr Setterfield’s Skin Needling Course
• And much more …
How You Can Benefit
• Increase client retention
• Build and strengthen confidence
• Expand your recognition and credibility
• Re-energise your staff
• Improve efficiency
• Enhance your competitive advantage
ENROL TODAY!
APJ 102 APJ 107
(07) 5593 0360 info@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com/courses