APJ Vol 55 2023

Leaders in Education

WINTER

Volume 55

2023

Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of

the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PTY LTD.

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APJ 2

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APJ 3

IN THIS ISSUE

WINTER VOLUME 55. 2023

82

BUSINESS, PERSONAL AND

PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT

20-22

THE NEUROSCIENCE

OF HABITS

83-85

BUSINESS

TIPS

56-57

ARE YOU ASKING

THE RIGHT YES

QUESTIONS IN YOUR

CONSULTATION?

86-87

THREE WINNING

STRATEGIES TO

ELEVATE STAFF

PERFORMANCE

REGULATION, STANDARDS, EDUCATION

AND CONFERENCES

16-19

APAN AESTHETIC

CONFERENCE

WRAPUP

96-97

WHY 2023 SAW A

RISE IN AESTHETIC

CONFERENCES

20

61

ARE YOU AN ARAP

REGISTERED

AESTHETIC

PRACTITIONER?

98-99

IS YOUR BUSINESS

PROTECTED FROM

CYBERCRIME?

64-65

HOW TO ENSURE

YOU ARE

REGULATORY

COMPLIANT

56

INDUSTRY REPORTS, NEWS, PRODUCTS

AND COSMETIC MEDICINE

8-9

CEO’S

REPORT

36-38

PRODUCTS

TRENDING

44-45

LASH GROWTH

SERUM – THE NEW

TREND IN LASH

ENHANCEMENT

58-60

YOUR QUESTIONS

ANSWERED IN

COSMETIC

MEDICINE

70-73

AESTHETIC

BULLETIN

76-77

TRACY DOBBIN –

A LEGACY IN

THE MAKING

APJ 4

96

SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH, TREATMENTS AND

TECHNOLOGIES

24-25

THREE KEY OBJECTIVES

OF WINTER-PROOFING

THE SKIN

26- 28

SKIN INPARLOUR –

RAISING THE STANDARD

OF CLINICAL AESTHETICS

TO A NEW LEVEL

30- 33

QUERCETIN –

THE CROWN OF

FLAVONOIDS

46-47

HYPERLIGHT

TECHNOLOGY –

A NEW DIMENTION

FOR CLINICS

52-54

WILD PANSY –

A POWERHOUSE WITH

DERMATOLOGICAL

PROPERTIES

66-68

INFLAMMATION

AND SKIN HEALTH:

UNDERSTANDING IMPACT,

REGULATION AND

TREATMENT: PART I

74-75

UBIQUINOL AND

ATP PRODUCTION

ACTIVATING THE

SKIN AND BODY’S

ENERGY PRODUCTION

92-95

SCIENTIFIC

NEWS

74-76

GLYCERINE –

THE CLASSIC

HYDRATOR THAT

CONTINUES TO

LEAD IN COSMETIC

FORMULATIONS

80-82

SUN PROTECTION

UPDATE –

REVIEWING

THE MYTHS

AND FACTS

88-91

HOW EFFECTIVELY

CAN SKINCARE

INGREDIENTS

PENETRATE

THE SKIN?

Editor

Dr Giulia D’Anna

(07) 5593 0360

editor@apanetwork.com

www.apanetwork.com

Typesetting & Graphics

Tahlia Schwark

Advertising & Marketing

Tina Viney

Phone: (07) 5593 0360

info@apanetwork.com

Fax: (07) 5593 0367

Mobile: 0412 177 423

Aesthetics Practitioners

Advisory Network

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Centre QLD 4218 Australia

Publisher

TEV Group Pty Ltd

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Artwork and Editorial

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4226 Australia

Phone: (07) 5593 0360

info@apanetwork.com

Mobile: 0412 177 423

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1800 687 237

info_au@murad.com

murad.com.au

For further details

see page 10-13

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Advisory Network

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Advisory Network

PO Box 5448, Q Super

Centre QLD 4218

National Advisory Council

Scientific Division:

Terry Everitt

Chris Testa.

Prof. Vania Leite Associate

Prof. Lorraine Mackenzie,

Rpbert McGowan

Business Innovation

Division:

Debbie Lane,

John Fergusson,

Michael Bishop, Julia

Malamed,

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The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network

organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking.

The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its

members on better business practices and industry advancements. All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain the

property of Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior written

authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that all scientific and technical information presented is as accurate

as possible at the time of publishing. However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek external advice from their

accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations.

APJ 5

Dr Giulia D’Anna

EDITOR’S LETTER

Wasn’t the APAN conference great! The

beautiful location on the Gold Coast was

superb, the exhibitor space was perfect,

the workshops were engaging and the

educational component in the lecture

space was outstanding. It was so well done

and lovely to see so many of you in

real life.

I know that many of you also opted to

watch the conference from your workplace

or home, which is super-convenient and

a lovely way of taking your time to look

through the content.

I loved talking about cosmetic injectables

and the changes in fat in the face. I hope

that I gave you all something to think about,

even if it was just knowing a little more

about what is happening with your own

facial contours over time.

Right now, we are all facing the challenges

of the uncertain economic environment,

and this can shift things within our own

clinical space. I am finding that patients

are still opting for treatments, but the

way that they do this is a little different

to a few months ago. People are showing

some restraint. This means that what I am

offering my patients is a little different,

in ways that also reflects their restraint.

Instead of patients accepting the whole

package at once, I am delivering small

packages over a longer time. This allows

them to undertake meaningful treatments,

but something that they can work into their

level of financial situation that is acceptable

for the current environment. If you find

yourself with some downtime, it might be a great opportunity to look at your offerings

and break them down into smaller bite-sized packages that can cater to your patient’s

mindset.

I am looking forward to the weather warming up soon too. This always delivers a shift

in gears on many levels. I love spending lazy sunny afternoons in my backyard, reading

(usually some kind of anatomy textbook - whatever floats your boat - right?) I know that

I also enjoy the warmer days to reach out to friends that I haven’t seen in a while to catch

up. Workwise, my clinical space catches the afternoon sun, and I am usually so inspired to

work in there. I would love to hear about your space, and how the changing seasons work

for you. Do you work in different areas to capture the best light, or atmosphere? Reach

out and let us know.

Finally let’s look at the changes in Aesthetic regulation in the injecting space. The changes

have now been in place for more than a month, and the dust is settling as we get used to

the new normal. For me I cannot say that there was a major shift in thinking or strategy

as I have always done some of new requirements. I have always screened patients for

psychological suitability to a treatment, and always referred as required. I have never

used influencers in my marketing strategies or used patient testimonials to advertise.

There are many practitioners that will have to review their social media to comply with

the new rules and also change the direction of their advertising. But I guess these kinds of

businesses were always on the skirts of what is considered acceptable. What about you,

have you had to shift gears?

In this issue of APJ, I have done something different and answered some questions from

you all. I would love this to be a regular feature, but I need your help. Please reach out

to me directly or send your questions to info@apanetwork.com and I will try to get your

question featured and answered in each issue. I would love to connect, so please send me

your thoughts.

Until next time,

You can access the new Cosmetic Guidelines and

the ARCTA Checklist here.

They are also available from the APAN website

from this link https://apanetwork.com/resources

editor@apanetwork.com

www.apanetwork.com

APJ 6

APJ

Contributors

Gay Wardle

gay@gaywardle.com.au

Gay Wardle is a qualified

dermal clinician and a

passionate trainer and

educatior in skin analysis,

consultation and advanced

skin treatments. Her articles

comprehensively cover

these subjects.

Terry Everitt

aestheticeducators@gmail.com

Professor Terry Everitt is highly

regarded for his extensive

knowledge in evidence-based

science. He is responsible for

the Scientific News segment

within APJ as well as his regular

well-researched articles on all

things aesthetics.

Trish Hammond

trish@thepinkroom.com.au

Trish Hammond is an awardwinning

blog and social media

expert and a leader in her field

within the aesthetics industry

and beyond. She regularly

presents educational articles

on Social Media.

Katherine McCann

k_mccann@me.com

Katherine McCann is a highly

experienced cosmetic tattoo

practitioner and trainer. She

regularly contributes to

thought-provoking cosmetic

tattoo articles in APJ.

Jacine Greenwood-

Drummond

jacine@roccoco.com.au

Jacine Greenwood-Drummond

holds qualifications in nursing,

cosmetic chemistry and is an

internationally recognised

educator on cosmetic

ingredients. Jacine contributes

articles on ingredient science.

Dr Tiina Meder

tiina.orasmae@mederbeauty.com

Dr Meder is a dermatologist

based in the UK. She is

renowned globally as

an educator in aesthetic

dermatology and a regulary

conference speaker.

Dr Meder contributes to

APJ on dermatology topics.

Deb Farnworth-Wood

deb@ultimateskinandbody.com.au

Deb Farnworth-Wood is our

business expert responsible

for APJ’s Business Wisdom

column. Deb is a business

development experts with

amazing achievements as a

serial entrepreneur.

APJ 7

CEO’S REPORT

Tina Viney

APAN CEO

Dear colleagues and friends,

There is one thing that I deeply cherish and that is replenishing

relationships. Women in particular are such givers. They nurture

their families. They nurture their staff, and they nurture their

clients and patients through their services and reassuring words.

But in a world of constant giving, the giver also needs a moment

to be replenished.

So, what does it mean to be replenished and what are

replenishing relationships?

On a personal level, it could mean interacting with someone who

understands you and allows you to share your disappointments

without being judgmental or offer you a trusted sounding board to

reflect safely on your uncertainties and gain constructive feedback

and support.

On a professional level, replenishing a relationship often has an

additional dimension. We gain encouragement and inspiration by

interacting with someone whom we admire for their courage and

their ability to stay positive, strong and achieve progress despite

challenges they may be facing.

As many of you are business owners, one of the most dynamic

ways to replenish your soul is through the power of inspiration.

Within our industry there are many such women that inspire us –

that we consider as role models, and there has never been a better

place to meet them than at our recent conference.

Apart from education, I have to say that the most common

feedback we received was how inspired participants were

with the calibre of speakers that we featured. They inspired

not just with their knowledge and achievements, but also with

their persona that radiated a blend of kindness, tenacity, and a

can-do attitude. Each one in their own unique way, contributed

to an elevated atmosphere of professionalism and a pride in

professional excellence. Who could ask for anything more.

Our sincere thanks to the wonderful women and men whose

contribution, not just with their knowledge, but also their presence,

made this event a great success.

APAN takes your protection on all fronts seriously. Our purpose is to remain

ethically consistent in all the initiatives we develop that will best protect and

support you. As your industry body we are moving swiftly to provide you with

a high levels of support through specific programs: Cybercrime, COVID Skin

Manifestation, Mental Hygiene in the Workplace, updated Inform Consent forms

that are in line with changes to regulations and much more.

APJ 8

We must always

change, renew,

rejuvenate ourselves;

otherwise, we harden.

Johann Wolfgang

von Goethe

Moving forward we are already planning for our 2024 Conference,

this time we will be moving the event to mid-May. Being the first

year that we launched a comprehensive workshop program, we

will refine the structure and the programs to continue to enhance

both the educational as well as the training experience delivered

by many of our distributors. Thank you for the extensive positive

feedback that we received from so many of you.

RISK MANAGEMENT SUPPORT

While many business owners are continuing to thrive, economic

challenges will require that we are all vigilant with managing risks.

Members that are struggling, please book a consultation with us,

as we can help you identify areas of continued growth as well as

minimising your risks on both financial and operational levels.

Remember, we are here to help.

CYBER SECURITY

With cybercrime on the rise our partnership with the Australian

Cyber Security Centre (ACSC) is also providing us with regular

guidelines which we will be sharing with you both within our

newsletters as well as through APJ Journal. Please take note of

these as cybercrime is a serious threat to all business owners. Stay

informed and implement recommendations to protect yourself

against such risks. Being hacked and losing your database is the

last thing you need right now.

COMMITTED TO YOUR PROTECTION

APAN takes your protection on all fronts seriously. Our purpose

is to remain ethically consistent in all the initiatives we develop

that will best protect and support you. As your industry body we

are moving swiftly to provide you with a high level of support on

all fronts - Cybercrime, COVID skin manifestation, Mental health

in the workplace, Regulatory updates and constantly updated

Inform Consent forms that are in line with changes to regulations.

These are just some of the initiatives for which we have developed

complete programs to protect you. Please access them from our

website www.apanetwork.com

Recently the Australasian College of Nutritional and

Environmental Medicine (ACNEM) conducted a conference

program completely dedicated to COVID Long Haul Navigating the

Complexity – A Clinician’s Roadmap. At this event they featured

the result of the very latest studies presented by world-leading

scientists on complexities on Long Haul COVID and how to

navigate them. We are in touch with them as there are many

simple strategies that we need to take that can fall withing the

scope of “support for recovery” and improving wellbeing.

We have invested in excess of $26,000 in the development of our

program which is specifically designed for aesthetic practitioners,

both dermal and cosmetic medicine. This 60-page document is an

invaluable tool that should be accessed by all who work on skin

therapies and personal care. We are now seeking to develop a

web-based app that will allow practitioners to quickly reference its

content when they identify any symptoms and review appropriate

strategies to support their clients. Meanwhile you can access the

document from our website or join APAN and receive it for FREE.

In closing I would like to congratulate you on your commitment to

your profession, for staying strong during challenging times and for

the amazing work you do in servicing your clients and those within

your care. It is a privilege to serve you and to champion

your progress. Stay true to your values and focused on achieving

your dreams. APJ

Together we are stronger.

Tina Viney - Chief Executive Officer

APJ 9

APJ 12

APJ 13

STAR PERFORMER

NEOGENESIS

UNVEILS GROUNDBREAKING

POST-TREATMENT KITS FOR

SUPERIOR SKINCARE RESULTS

NeoGenesis, leading pioneer in the

skincare industry, has just launched

two revolutionary post-treatment kits

designed to elevate skincare results and

minimise downtime after professional

skin treatments. The Ultimate Pro Post-

Treatment Kit and the Renew + Revive Post-

Treatment Kit promise to be game changers

for skincare enthusiasts seeking impeccable

results and accelerated recovery.

Renowned for its cutting-edge skincare

solutions, NeoGenesis aims to impress the

aesthetic market with these two innovative

kits. Each product is meticulously

formulated with potent and concentrated

ingredients to deeply nourish and restore

skin vitality.

LAUNCH AT THE APAN AESTHETICS

CONFERENCE

To launch the new products Steve McGee,

CEO of NeoGenesis was welcomed at

this year’s APAN Aesthetics Conference

as he joined the Australian NeoGenesis

team. On Friday 14th July, Gay Wardle

presented the results of a scientific study

on The Role of Stem Cell Released Molecules

in Skin Renewal. On Saturday at the

NeoGenesis workshop the team presented

treatments solutions, while Borka

Buseska demonstrated the phenomenal

results achievable through the use of the

NeoGenesis unique formulations to a

packed room of eager practitioners and

clinic owners.

With the launch of the two kits, salons and clinics are now able to experience the

NeoGenesis phenomenon. Here are further details of these kits:

The Ultimate Pro Post-Treatment Kit boasts an array of essentials, including a 30mL

Cleanser, 30mL Moisturizing Mist, 5mL Barrier Renewal Cream, and 5mL Recovery.

These products are tailor-made to provide instant hydration, offering cooling relief

while soothing redness and irritation post-treatment. NeoGenesis recommends a simple

protocol to achieve significant skin improvement.

In parallel, the Renew + Revive Post-Treatment Kit, comprising a 30mL Cleanser, 30mL

Moisturizing Mist, 5mL Barrier Renewal Cream, and 5mL Skin Serum, is a powerhouse of

hydration and nourishment. The ingredients in this kit work harmoniously to replenish

the skin naturally and help reduce overall recovery time. With a focus on providing an

enhanced skincare experience, NeoGenesis aims to empower clients to maintain and

maximise the benefits of their professional treatments.

As the demand for effective skincare solutions continues to soar, NeoGenesis sets itself

apart by delivering exceptional, science-backed products that cater to diverse skin needs

and provide solutions to some of the most challenging skin conditions. APJ

NeoGenesis is delighted to welcome their new salon and clinic stockists who are keen to

support their clients and patients in achieving their best possible skin thought evidencebased

formulations If you wish to learn more about this product and introduce your

clients to the NeoGenesis phenomenon please see contact details below:

To place an order:

Borka Buseska: 1300 799 415 | E: Borka@actitraining.com.au

Training and Education:

Gay Wardle: 041 8708 455 | E: education@gaywardle.com

APJ 14

NEXT GENERATION STEM CELL SCIENCE

MODERN

SCIENCE

for the skin

Providing the highest quality skin and hair

products that naturally enhance people’s

quality of life by returning their skin and

hair to radiant health.

skin strengthening products

CO2 LASER + PRP

PROFESSIONAL TREATMENTS

Prepare the skin before + after a professional

treatment by providing it with the nutrients it

needs to achieve superior results.

ONCOLOGY SUPPORT

Provide restorative solutions + relief with

NeoGenesis’ oncology-safe skin and hair products

before, during, and after treatment.

DAY 0

AGEING SKIN

DAY 5

SKIN + HAIR CONDITIONS

From aesthetics + beauty to chronic skin

irritation + sensitivity, let our patented stem cell

technology go to work and do what it does best.

To Place An Order: Borka Buseska

P: +61 (2) 82033339

E: bbuseska@neogenesispro.com.au

For Training + Education: Gay Wardle

P: +61 (2) 72554646

E: gwardle@neogenesispro.com.au

DAY 0

6 MONTHS

ONCOLOGY SAFE

HEALTHY BEAUTY

PATENTED STEM CELL TECHNOLOGY

APJ 15

neogenesispro.com.au | info@neogenesispro.com.au

APJ 16

CONFERENCE

2023

On a bright and sunny Gold Coast winter morning, Friday

14th July saw the launch of this year’s APAN Aesthetics

Conference staged at the magnificent Royal Pines Resort.

The two-day event featured an extensive educational

program consisting of 18 comprehensive lectures supported

by the addition of 12 workshops.

Saturday morning started with a networking breakfast with

guest presenter Debbie Lane who shared insight into the

emerging opportunities for a successful retail model for

professional salons and clinics.

Each guest was welcomed with a delegate’s bag full of

a generous supply of leading professional skincare and

nutritional products valued at $400 each, courtesy of our

amazing sponsors.

Thank you to all our amazing sponsors for their generosity

and in making the event a great success.

This year, the introduction of the workshop stream allowed

delegates to gain from the additional benefit of taking

their theoretical knowledge into the practical realm. These

where a huge success as the training was delivered by

highly qualified educators and leading industry experts

demonstrating advanced protocols and techniques.

International guests include dermatologist Dr Tiina Meder

and formulator of Meder Beauty Science visited from the

UK to present a compelling lecture on microbiome-oriented

skincare as the new paradigm in skin therapy.

Steve McGee, CEO of NeoGenesis was also a guest

from Colorado USA, who participated in the workshop

demonstrating the amazing skin repair and renewal benefits

of the NeoGenesis novel patented stem cell S2RM ®

technology, while Gay Wardle presented a lecture on the

scientific evidence of this amazing molecule.

Dr Murad’s renowned research study results on the impact

of stress in skin ageing and overall health was expertly

APJ 17

presented by Katy Bacon, dermal aesthetician, clinical

nutritionist, cosmetic chemist and Director of Education,

APAC, Murad Skincare.

Terry Everitt presented a thought-provoking lecture on

Biopsychosocial client-centric communication being the new

evidence-based approach for improved client engagement.

Dr Giulia D’Anna presented a compelling lecture on Changes

to Facial Fat Distribution and the Impact on Injectables, while

Katherine McCann brought the symmetry consideration

when using cosmetic tattooing as the corrective tool of

choice for Ptosis and Facial Ageing Conditions.

In her signature passionate manner, Sarah Hughes,

D+ermal Clinician and Mediclinic Training Manager for The

International Dermal Institute educated us on the new

formulations and diverse use of hydroxy acids for safe and

amazing clinical outcomes.

The new approaches to client service and acquisition were

expertly presented by Neil Osborne, while Iola Ciavarra

challenged her audience with effective ways of retailing

through the new approached that achieves increase in

revenue without the sales pitch.

These and numerous other topics were featured at this

year’s event include two thought-provoking expert panel

discussions – one on changes to regulations and current

industry threats and one on understanding and treating a

specific rosacea condition.

Jacine Greenwood expounded on the clinical approach to

restoring the skin’s barrier function and treating acne, while

Jeffery Flood updated us on the latest symbiotic strands for

stable deliver of microbiome gut health.

But it was not all about the skin - the very latest in

equipment technology were presented by Matt Moncrieff,

who addressed the evolving trends in more efficient and

safer devices for face and body transformations, as well as

women’s health.

APJ 18

There was also a strong government representation of three

experts who presented updates on regulations, as well as

the important issue of cyber security.

For the practical application of the theory, expertly presented

by qualified trainers and educators were 12 focused

workshops.

EXCITING NEWS

At the last minute our competent IT expert Angus Thompson

was able to secure high quality cameras to also record the

workshops. While these were only available for those

who attend the live conference event, they have now

been recorded and are available to be viewed through our

online registration. Thank you also to Jess Hart and Lauren

Thompson who undertook this task.

AN INDUSTRY FIRST

One of the unique features of the APAN Conference program

is that the live event is further supported by an online

conference program that includes the video recorded live

lectures with the addition of another 16 lectures presented

by some of the world’s best scientists and experts. This

allows businesses and their staff from across Australia and

even overseas to connect and gain the benefit of

the program.

Once again, Professor Terry Everitt expertly undertook the

demanding role of MC for the whole conference program.

Many thanks Terry.

Our sincere thanks also to our exceptional speakers and

amazing sponsors and exhibitors who helped make this event

a great success. Thank you also to our amazing technical

team and supporters for their hard work and dedication – we

truly appreciate you all. We have set the benchmark higher.

Expect continued improvements in 2024. APJ

To register for the online program

www.apanconf.com | phone 07 55930 360.

APJ 19

BUSINESS WISDOM

WISDOM THAT NEVER FAILS PART III.

THE NEUROSCIENCE

OF HABITS:

How they are established and how to change

them to build a better life

Most business owners dream of achieving something incredible

with their life and business. They often study highly successful

people and are mesmerised by their incredible stories, inspiring

them in their own journey towards success. And while an

inspirational story has its merits, ultimately, we all seek to

understand and emulate the achiever’s behaviour, beliefs and

habits that allowed them to stay the course and overcome their

obstacles, regardless of the challenges they faced.

While vision, goals and plans are part of the essential roadmap to

any success story, how we walk our daily lives and our patterns

of behaviour will ultimately determine what we will eventually

achieve, and this is where identifying and establishing winning

habits are the critical elements that will help us create our own

success stories.

In this article we look at the neuroscience of habits, how to change

bad habits and introduce good habits that will help you build a

better life.

Most people that run a business and manage a team know the

value of creating good habits, as well as giving up bad ones that

hinder progress. Furthermore, creating healthy habits will also

support mental health and wellbeing. To cultivate good habits, you

will need to use a simple plan that will help you not just create, but

also maintain good habits and avoid returning to older

unwanted ones.

WHAT IS A HABIT?

Habit and routines are not interchangeable. A habit is a behaviour

done with little or no thought, whereas a routine is a series of

behaviours frequently, and intentionally, repeated. To turn a

behaviour into a habit, it first needs to become a routine.

Our habits govern our lives, literally. Research shows that around

half of our daily actions are driven by repetition. This is probably

why behavioural scientists and psychologists have spent so much

time writing about how to establish and keep positive habits.

Regular sleep and exercise, a healthy diet, an organised schedule,

and mindfulness are just a few examples of practices that — if

done regularly — can improve our work, relationships,

and mental health.

THE POWER OF HABIT

On May 17, 2014, dressed in his impressive uniform, Navy

Seal Admiral William H. McRaven addressed graduates of the

University of Texas at Austin, with his famous speech which stated

by saying, “If you want to change the world, start by making your bed”.

APJ 20

Habit and routines are

not interchangeable. A

habit is a behaviour done

with little or no thought,

whereas a routine is a series

of behaviours frequently,

and intentionally, repeated.

To turn a behaviour into

a habit, it first needs to

become a routine.

He shared 10 important lessons he learned during his basic Seal

training - each and every one of them consisted of specific actions

that collectively deliver a discipline of systematic habits that

contributed to making him and his team highly skilled and capable

warriors ready to face battle.

Here is what he said:

“Even though the task of doing our bed could be considered mundane,

each morning we were required to make our bed to perfection.

“If you make your bed every morning, you would have accomplished the

first task of the day. It will give you a small sense of pride and encourage

you to do another task, and another, and another, and by the end of the

day, that one task completed with turn into many tasks completed.

“Making your bed will also reinforce the fact that the little things in life

matter. If you can’t do the little thing right, you will never be able to do

the big things right, and by chance you have a miserable day you will

come home to a bed that is made – that you made - and a made bed

will give you encouragement that tomorrow will be better.”

What Admiral McRaven was stressing was the power of habit, as

the foundational essential to a successful life.

But what if those things don’t come naturally to you? What does it

take to build a new habit?

While there are plenty of hacks on the internet competing to

answer these questions, the neuroscience behind habit formation

doesn’t offer shortcuts. Experts advocate for the old-fashioned

approach: incremental progress and dedicated commitment is what,

time and again, has proven to lead to change.

Surprisingly, the first step towards creating long-term change

involves building routines — not habits themselves.

ROUTINES VERSUS HABITS

Most of us assume the two are interchangeable. But experts

agree that this is a common fallacy - one that tends to end

in disappointment. When we fail at forming new patterns of

behaviour, we often blame ourselves, rather than the bad advice

we read from someone who doesn’t really understand what can

and cannot be a habit.

As we have already said, a habit is a behaviour done with little

or no thought, while a routine involves a series of behaviours

frequently, and intentionally, repeated. A behaviour must be a

regularly performed routine before it can become a habit at all.

The problem is that many of us try to skip the “routine” phase,

this is because we think that habits will allow us to put tedious or

unenjoyable tasks on autopilot.

Unlike habits, routines are uncomfortable and require a concerted

effort. Waking up early to run every morning or meditating for 10

minutes every night, for instance, are rituals that — initially — are

hard to keep up. Habits, on the other hand, are so ingrained in

our daily lives that it feels strange not to do them. Think about it.

What do you automatically do as soon as you wake, do you drift

into the kitchen and make yourself a coffee or take your morning

supplements with a glass of water – you don’t even think about it.

If these are habits you have already formed, avoiding them might

even feel awkward.

So, what is needed if you wish to turn a routine into a habit?

Here are some useful steps:

DETERMINE YOUR INTENSIONS

Keep in mind that some routines may blossom into habits, but not

all of them can or will. Some things, while quantifiable, require

too much concentration, deliberation, and effort to make the

transition. For example, playing an instrument, retaining a tidy

bedroom, or journaling don’t fall into the habit category; they’re

not effortless behaviours that can be done without conscious

thought. For this reason, it is important to pick the behaviour you

want to turn into a habit wisely. Maybe you want to drink more

water throughout the day or skip checking your email first thing in

the morning. Whatever you choose, be realistic about the process.

It will take patience, self-discipline, and commitment.

“There’s no such thing as 21 days to start a new habit,” says Charles

Duhigg, author of The Power of Habit. “The time it takes will vary from

person to person,” he says. For example, developing a pleasurable

habit, like spraying a refreshing skin tonic on your skin first thing in

the morning, may take a day to turn into a habit, this is because it

is pleasurable, while trying to exercise at 5 pm each evening may

take much longer. Reflect on what you’re trying to achieve and

why. Understanding “the why” will help you stay motivated when

inevitable roadblocks to building new routines.

MAKE PROVISION FOR THE ROADBLOCKS

Reflect on why, to date, you haven’t regularly practiced this

behaviour. What has stopped you in the past? Is fear or the

feeling of inadequacy is getting in the way? Or a lack of time? By

familiarising yourself with your potential blockers early on, you can

quickly identify and manage them when they arise later, because

they will.

APJ 21

Setting reminders can help you

maintain good habits. If you use

an online diary, set automatic

reminders on your computer and

your phone. There are also apps

available that help with goal

setting and new habits.

Tony Robins, when speaking about sticking at your exercise

routine puts it this way, “Focus on the positive body changes that

your exercise will help you achieve instead of the pain you may be

going through, this will allow you to push through the discomfort

and eventually, enjoy not just the outcome, but also the process”.

DETERMING AREAS TO ESTABLISH GOOD HABITS

Good habits have the objectives of improving our performance,

creating greater peace and order in our lives and enhancing our

productivity. Here are some areas for you to consider:

• Healthy diet and exercise

• Healthy sleep habits

• Healthy relationships

• Positive and assertive communication

• Work-life balance

• Time management

• Stress management

• Relaxation and mindfulness

THE WINNING STRATEGIES

It’s hard to change everything all at once; it’s easier to set small

goals and achieve them. This helps create good habits. For

example, it is easier to do a small amount of exercise each day

than to decide to run a marathon.

It might take you several months to create a new habit. So, you

need to include the change as part of your regular routine.

A diary (hard copy or online) or a wall planner may help.

Here is a perfect example of the power of incremental routine

that has led to the pleasure of a good habit. Many salon owners

who wish to enhance their knowledge in clinical aesthetics

or dermal therapies will often start with the intention of just

completing say just two to three units at a university level.

However, in many instances, speaking to them 12 or 24 months

later, they have decided not to stop, and have pursued a full

bachelor’s qualification. This is the power of incremental routine

that ultimately becomes a habit of enjoying study and loving the

rewards and new opportunities that a full qualification can bring.

Setting reminders can help you maintain good habits. If you use an

online diary, set automatic reminders on your computer and your

phone. There are also apps available that help with goal setting

and new habits.

Your family and friends can also be a great support and can help to

keep you motivated.

If you slip back into your old habits, don’t give up - this is common.

Just remember why you wanted to make the change. This will help

you pick up where you left off.

TOOLS TO HELP YOU CREATE A HEALTHY HABIT

Here are a few considerations to help you create and maintain

healthy habits:

1. Decide on a goal.

2. Choose a simple action you can take every day.

3. Plan when and where you will take your action: choose a

time and place that you encounter every day of the week.

4. Every time you encounter that time and place,

take the action.

5. Congratulate yourself when you find yourself

doing the action.

6. It gets easier with time, and within 10 weeks you

should find you are doing it without even thinking.

IN CONCLUSION

It is a worthwhile pursuit to invest in developing good habits. The

beauty is that they are within your reach. First, identify what is

holding you back that you would like to change, then design a plan

to establish good habits for positive change and set your mind to

make it happen and you will soon discover that you are the master

of your own destiny. APJ

APJ 22

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microneedle insertion and

needle penetration depths up

to 5mm, the Intensif provides

the best results for:

• Deep wrinkles

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Before

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Before

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High Tech Medical is the proud distributor of EndyMed.

Contact us to learn more about how EndyMed can

increase your clinic’s profitability and deliver dramatic

clinical outcomes for your patients.

APJ 23

INGREDIENT SCIENCE

THE THREE KEY

OBJECTIVES FOR

WINTER-

PROOFING

THE SKIN

Jacine Greenwood-Drummond

As a season, winter has its own charm. It allows us to enjoy the

crisp air, the comfort of a warm fireplace and the joy of hot cocoa

or a hearty soup with chunks of delicious vegetables. However,

when it comes to the skin it also brings the perils of dryness,

chapped lips and pale, lackluster complexion.

The drop in humidity, biting winds, and the constant switch

between heated indoors and the cold outdoors can leave the

skin feeling dehydrated, sensitive, and longing for extra care. As a

skin therapist, keeping your clients’ skin hydrated during winter

requires three critical objectives:

• Establish and maintain the skin’s barrier integrity.

• Prevent the evaporation of moisture from the

surface of the skin.

• Support the accumulation of water within the skin.

Let’s explore these concepts in more detail.

ESTABLISHING AND PROTECTING THE SKIN’S

BARRIER INTEGRITY - OILS THAT WORK

The lipid bilayer is made up of different proportions of saturated

and unsaturated fatty acids. It forms what is known as a liquid

crystalline structure. The balance between the liquid crystalline

and solid crystal phases is determined by the degree of fatty acid

unsaturation, the amount of water and other factors.

During hot weather it is much more fluid, but in cold weather, it

becomes less flexible. The choice of oils and lipids in formulas

significantly influences this liquid crystalline structure of the

lipid bilayer.

Oils such as Kiwi Seed Oil, Raspberry Seed Oil, Passionfruit Seed

Oil and Seabuckthorn Oil are high in Omega 3 content and as such

they stabilise the lipid bilayer and allow it to remain fluid. These

oils once integrated into the lamellar structure do not condense or

freeze until below zero (-17 degrees Celsius).

Oils such as coconut oil however in contrast solidify at room

temperature. The incorporation of oils that are high in Oleic

Acid is not suited for cold climates. The freezing point of Oleic

acid is 13 degrees Celsius. High Oleic acid oils are not suited for

cold climates for this reason. Examples of such oils are olive oil,

genetically modified sunflower oil, macadamia oil and canola oil.

The incorporation of these oils in high percentages in cosmetic

formulations prevents the lipid bilayer from remaining fluid, which

results in rapid water loss from the skin in cold climates. The lipid

bilayer can no longer move to fill in gaps in the skin. The result is

skin dehydration and irritation. Therefore, the use of appropriate

lipids is crucial for skin barrier health in cosmetic formulations.

Where possible choose high Omega 3 oils due to their fluidity in

cold weather.

PREVENT THE EVAPORATION OF MOISTURE FROM THE

SURFACE OF THE SKIN

Preventing the evaporation of moisture from the skin can be

achieved by ingredients that do not fully occlude the skin. This

means they prevent transepidermal water loss, but still allow the

exchange of gases between the skin and the atmosphere. One

of the best ingredients for this is silicone. Dehydration of the

skin comes from the skin’s inability to hold on to moisture. By

providing a film on the skin that traps moisture the skin within

enables the maintenance of skin hydration. Silicone elastomers

provide a semi-permeable barrier on the skin’s surface. This

barrier helps to lock in moisture and prevent water molecules from

evaporating from the skin into the surrounding environment.

Silicones are known to have occlusive characteristics. In the

context of skincare, an occlusive agent acts as a physical barrier

that seals off the skin from external factors. It forms a protective

layer on your skin, forming an invisible shield from dry cold air.

APJ 24

The drop in humidity, biting winds, and the constant

switch between heated indoors and the cold outdoors

can leave the skin feeling dehydrated, sensitive, and

longing for extra care.

Silicones are water-resistant, so they help to maintain the skin’s

moisture even if you come into contact with water, like from snow

or rain in cold weather.

An additional benefit of silicones is that when used in combination

with other moisturising agents (like humectants), silicones can

enhance the overall efficacy of a product. They can help to seal

in the benefits of other ingredients, allowing them to work more

effectively and for longer durations.

SUPPORT THE ACCUMULATION OF WATER WITHIN THE SKIN

Boosting the epidermal reservoirs of moisture is the third way

to combat winter dryness and dehydration. Glycerin is a natural

component of the skin and reduces the lipid phase transition of the

bilayer. It also enhances the natural desquamation process. In a

study, Hara and Verkman assessed aquaporin-deficient mice. The

horny layer of these mice had multiple defects including increased

trans-epidermal water loss, decreased hydration and poor elasticity.

After topical applications of glycerol, these deficiencies were

completely corrected, leading to a restoration of the skin’s normal

level of watertightness. This study also found that glycerol enhanced

the biosynthesis of the physiologic lipids that are responsible for

barrier function. Glycerol accelerates barrier repair.

It is now firmly established that immature fragile corneocytes

inevitably signify an impaired barrier. Cornified envelopes

are critical elements in the construction of the barrier and in

mediating its functions. Glycerol also has effects on cornified

envelopes. Glycerol has been shown to help differentiate the

corneocytes properly. One of the biggest myths perpetuated in

the industry is that if you use glycerin when there is low humidity

it will dehydrate and suck the moisture out of the skin. Glycerol

does not act as a humectant at low humidity. It keeps the lipid

bilayer fluid. Glycerol present in the stratum corneum is able to

bind water in this layer and thus reduce the mobility of water. The

glycerol-hydrating property occurs not only on healthy skin but

also on skin affected by xerosis.

IN CONCLUSION

Winter skincare is paramount for maintaining a healthy and

radiant complexion during the colder months. The drop in

temperature and reduced humidity levels can strip the skin of its

natural moisture, making it susceptible to dryness and flakiness.

Incorporating key ingredients like glycerin and silicone can be

a game-changer. Together, they provide a synergistic approach

to combat the harsh effects of winter, leaving the skin supple,

moisturized, and resilient. APJ

APJ 25

MEMBER PROFILE

SKIN

INPARLOUR

RAISING THE STANDARD OF CLINICAL

AESTHETICS TO NEW LEVEL

Jamie Trewartha

Skin InParlour is a next generation aesthetic and cosmetic

medicine clinic located within the Aldinga Central Shopping

Centre in Aldinga Beach, Adelaide. As a recently established

clinic, it promises to bring a high level of care and nurture to

local clients who are seeking professional skin treatment results

with a global approach to overall wellness.

Owner and manager, Jamie Trewartha is a highly qualified Clinical

Aesthetician with a real determination and passion to create

something uniquely special that mergers advanced skin health

therapies with the added dimension of cosmetic injectables,

cosmetic tattooing, as well as modalities for supporting

overall wellbeing.

As a member of APAN, we had the privilege of interviewing Jamie

allowing her to share with us, her story and vision for her business.

APJ Q1: Jamie, tell us a little about your background and

why you decided to establish your own clinic?

Jamie: I originally come from the dental industry where I worked

for 12 years. However, I developed a real desire to advance my

knowledge in the health sciences, so I enrolled as a nurse with a

view of becoming a cosmetic nurse. However, I soon developed

a real interest in skin therapies. This led me to transition to an

Applied Health Science Degree in Clinical Aesthetics, which I

undertook at the Australasian College of Health and Wellness

(ACHW). I thoroughly enjoyed my studies and upon graduating I

realised that my real passion was in skin health. Eventhough I am

still completing my nursing degree, I soon realised that I prefer to

work in the area of skin health rather than cosmetic injectables.

APJ Q2: As a Clinical Aesthetician what is your vision for

Skin Inparlour and how do you provide value for your

clients and patients?

Jamie: I believe that true skin health requires a global approach

that includes a complete wellness strategy. My aesthetic hub

creates a welcoming environment where I can educate my clients

towards better health strategies and how to work with me to

ensure long-lasting skin health and sustainable results that also

support their overall wellbeing. Our services extend to include

cosmetic injectables, medical aesthetic tattooing. as well as

internal nutritional support and IV vitamin infusions. Ultimately

our aim is to provide our clients with evidence-based solutions.

APJ Q3: From your observation, which age group do you

cater for and what are the most in demand procedures and

the most common skin concerns that you are seeing?

Jamie: The main age group that we are catering for is the 30’s to

70’s. In terms of common skin conditions, I have to say that we see

several chronic skin problems, such as rosacea, pigmentation, acne

and eczema with extensive inflammation. So, it is important that

we prep the skin first with enzyme therapy and LED. Our primary

objective is to help restore the skin’s immune defence and establish

a healthy microbiome so that when we transition to their specific

advanced skin therapy program, we can deliver the treatments

safely and in a more controlled manner without reactions.

While we also offer some more invasive procedures such as

Radio Frequency and Dermal Needling, we certainly cannot start

with these, especially with the more problematic skin conditions.

We need to first work to strengthen the skin’s health and then

transition to the more invasive therapies. Our main age-group is

between 30’s to 70’s.

We do see a lot of perioral dermatitis, rosacea and a lot of

inflammation. Having returned from the APAN Conference I

have introduced several of my clients to the NeoGenesis stem cell

Recover Serum and I am seeing some amazing results with the skin

clearing up quickly.

I am so grateful for the knowledge I have received with my degree

qualification as it has given me the tools to critically think and

analysis the best possible treatment approach that will provide my

client with the best outcome. It is challenging at times, but I love

helping my clients achieve beautiful results.

It seems that more and more I am getting the highly challenging

skin conditions, and these are now becoming my most in demand

treatments. I very rarely do very young clients with minimal

skin concerns. However, I love what I do, and I stick to my lane,

looking to perfect my results.

APJ Q4: What is your most effective marketing tool and

what do you believe are the three most important things

that clients are seeking to remain loyal to a clinic.

Jamie: I believe that the most important quality that will attract

client loyalty is first and foremost customer service. By that I

mean ensuring that I remain 100% receptive, listen to what really

concerns them and what is important to them, and then

clearly communicate how I can help them with positive and

effective solutions.

I also believe that clients today want to be convinced that you are

knowledgeable and that you are a real expert. They also value if

you are highly qualified at what you do, as this is helpful in putting

their trust in you.

APJ 26

I also believe that to grow a business you need to communicate

with total honesty. Today’s client can see through all the hype.

They also value people who genuinely care about them, who call

them by their name, ask after their family and build a genuine

relationship with them. A frequent comment that we hear from

our clients is that they feel that we truly care about them and treat

then as valuable individuals and not just a number.

APJ Q5: What aspect of your work do you enjoy the most?

Jamie: I love helping my clients achieve their goals.

I love educating them so that they can collaborate with me for

superior results. I love learning about new products and how they

work and where they will best fit into my client’s treatment plan.

I also love the advanced devices and in seeing the capabilities of

new technologies, but I never push my clients if they are not ready

to undertake the more advanced procedures. I love investigating

their needs and recommend strategically what is appropriate.

APJ Q6: What is your favourite hobby and how to you

relax and recharge to face your responsibilities?

Jamie: I am a highly strung person, with a business and a home to

run. I have my husband and I am a mum to two beautiful boys. I

do like to escape to the gym, but there is nothing more enjoyable

after a hard day’s work than to relax on the sofa with a glass of

wine, cuddling up to my boys, and being all together as a family.

I always cherish my family time and our trips. I love escaping

together camping – it is so rewarding.

APJ Q7: Why did you join APAN as a member and how

important is the support you receive for your business?

Jamie: While doing my degree at ACHW, I was enrolled as a

student member of APAN. I always enjoyed reading the APJ

Journal, so when I graduated, I decided to join as a full member.

I value expanding my knowledge and continuing my research. I

enjoyed attending the APAN conference this year and loved the

opportunity to network with other professionals. There was so

much to learn and discover ways to expand my horizons. Having

an industry body to turn to that has my back is so reassuring.

We wish Jamie every success and welcome the opportunity to

champion her progress and see her achieve her goals. APJ

Skin InParlour is located at Shop 38/11 Pridham Boulevard,

Aldinga Central Shopping Centre, Aldinga Beach, Adelaide

08 8102 4328 | hello@skininparlour.au | www.skininparlour.au

APJ 27

SOCIAL MEDIA

WHY SOCIAL

COMMERCE

WILL CONTINUE TO RISE IN AESTHETICS

PRODUCTS AND SERVICES

Trish Hammond

As an expert in Social Media and eCommerce trends in the

Aesthetic and Health Space, Trish Hammon provides a mapping of

the leading trends and what you will need to have in place in this

space. In this article she reviews three key areas:

• Aesthetics & Health Care eCommerce trends to

action in 2023

• Impact of Social Media in Aesthetics & Health

Care eCommerce

• The pros and cons of Aesthetics & Health Care

social commerce

Social commerce is the wave of the future, and it’s no surprise

that it will continue to rise! With more and more people turning

to social media for their shopping needs, businesses are taking

advantage of this trend by offering products directly through

popular social media platforms. So, let’s review three key areas,

what is needed and what you will need to have in place:

THE E-COMMERICE TRENDS TO ACTION IN 2023 FOR BOTH

HEALTH-CARE AND AESTHETICS

It’s clear that social commerce has become an essential part of

any successful marketing strategy – one that should be embraced

by all businesses looking to stay ahead in today’s competitive

marketplace. So, if you haven’t already hopped on board the social

commerce train yet – now is definitely the time!

WHAT YOU WILL NEED TO FOCUS ON TO GET IT RIGHT

a. Trust has never been more important.

• Establish clear trust signals: The credibility of your

product is important, so find simple ways to articulate the

integrity of your product to the consumer.

• First impressions are everything: Make sure your branding

is clear and the visuals are professional and

communicate quality.

• Be human and be real: Avoid cliché statements,

communicate honestly and present the facts clearly.

b. The growth of “Buy Now Pay Later” offerings.

With the checkout experience being one of the most important

steps in the sales journey, keeping on top of payment trends is

vital. Offering “Buy Now Pay Later” options is a great way to

increase your products (and even treatment) purchases.

c. Green commerce attracts customers.

Despite budget concerns, consumers are willing to spend with

brands that meet their sustainability values. As this trend grows,

your clients will be keen to discover what your business is doing to

help the environment. Mineral Makeup + Clinical Skincare, Cruelty

Free + Talc Free, Pure Minerals + Clean Actives - these keywords

are more attractive for your customers. Make sure your brands

meet these values.

d. Delivery expectations are high.

• Make it easier for your clients to obtain their purchases

by offering options, such as free delivery, or maybe even

some collection points.

• Ensure your delivery options are clear on your website

and monitor whether these are meeting your customers’

needs. To do this, ask them!

• Build customer trust and convenience with an Easy

Returns portal.

THE BENEFITS OF SOCIAL MEDIA IN E-COMMERCE

As the healthcare industry continues its rapid expansion, more

and more people are buying their medical items online rather than

visiting physical clinics and pharmacies.

Using e-commerce in the healthcare industry is something that

is being suggested for clinics and other retailers in the industry.

Setting up an online space for customers to buy products could be

a game-changer for your clinic or practice. Here are some of the

benefits you can expect:

#1: Increase your patient base.

Your patients will love you for offering them this service, which

means they’ll be more likely to return when they need something

else from you.

#2: Improve your brand image.

The more people who know about your clinic’s services, the

APJ 28

better—and a great way to do that is by making it easy for them

to find what they need on your website.

#3: Increase revenue.

By selling products on your website, you can keep more

money in your pocket.

REVIEWING THE CONS AND PROS OF SOCIAL

MEDIA E-COMMERCE

PROS

When considering the pros, there are two key areas that will

allow you to expand your business:

• It Increases Opportunity: The internet is a door for a world

of opportunity, so your business has the chance to enter

a market full of possible buyers. Not only can it help your

clients and potential clients know what you offer, its also a

great way for your clients to book themselves, rather than

have to call and book. We Love BOOK ONLINE!

• Growth of Desired Audience: Millions are already active

on social media. Think about how your business can reach

out and sell to its target customer. You can start small.

CONS

Are their any areas of concern that I will need to be mindful of?

• Exposure to the Competition: Being busy on social

platforms gives your competitors an opportunity to see

what you have on offer. HOWEVER, by being the best at

what you do can make up for this.

• Not Everything Converts: You should always remember

that not everyone and every ad will convert. This is why

you need to create a simple yet effective way for your

clients to come back, and your customer base to grow.

IN CONCLUSION

All in all, the future of social commerce is looking bright. As online

shoppers continue to increase, businesses will feel more and more

pressure to take advantage of this trend by selling their products

on the most popular social media platforms, such as Instagram and

Facebook. Coupled with the rise of smartphones and mobile shopping,

social e-commerce is sure to become a staple of the retail world.

Need help? Book a discovery call with me to work out what you

need and how we can help you get there. APJ

Contact Trish Hammond at The Pink Room:

0438 599 833 | hello@thepinkroom.com.au

Stay tuned for our topic in the next APAN journal.

Using e-commerce in the healthcare industry is

something that is being suggested for clinics and other

retailers in the industry. Setting up an online space for

customers to buy products could be a game-changer

for your clinic or practice.

APJ 29

NUTRITION

QUERCETIN

THE CROWN OF FLAVONOIDS

Tina Viney

Have you ever wondered what makes a “superfood” super? Or

what top superfoods like green tea, kale and blueberries all have

in common? The answer is quercetin, a natural compound tied

to what all of us seek: better longevity, heart health, endurance,

immunity, and more.

According to a 2018 review, quercetin is considered to be the

most widely distributed and extensively studied flavonoid. It’s

been shown in dozens of studies to have anti-carcinogenic,

anti-inflammatory and antiviral activities. In fact, there isn’t

much this powerful antioxidant compound can’t do, especially

when combined with the health benefits of bromelain, an

anti-inflammatory enzyme. All this explains why many experts

recommend consuming food sources that contain quercetin

regularly. So, what are those foods, and how much should you

consume? Let’s explore.

WHAT IS QUERCETIN

Quercetin is a type of flavonoid antioxidant that’s found in plant

foods, including leafy greens, tomatoes, berries and broccoli. It’s

technically considered a “plant pigment,” which is exactly why it’s

found in deeply coloured, nutrient-packed fruits and vegetables.

Considered one of the most abundant antioxidants in the human

diet, quercetin plays an important role in fighting free radical

damage and combatting the effects of ageing and inflammation,

according to many studies.

While you can get plenty of it from eating a healthy diet, it is often

consumed in a concentrated supplement form for even stronger

anti-inflammatory benefits. In fact, during COVID, quercetin was

one of the leading supplements that was highly recommended

by integrative medical practitioners for its ability to support the

immune system and for its proven anti-inflammatory benefits.

What is quercetin used for? According to the Department of

Pathology and Diagnostics at the University of Verona in Italy,

quercetin glycosides and other flavonoids, (like kaempferol and

myricetin) are anti-viral, anti-microbial, anti-inflammatory and

anti-allergic agents+++. Studies also confirm that they have the

potential to be expressed positively in different cell types in both

animals

and humans.

Flavonoid polyphenols are most beneficial for down-regulating or

suppressing inflammatory pathways and functions. Quercetin is

considered the most diffused and known nature-derived flavanol

there is, showing strong effects on immunity and inflammation

caused by leukocytes and other intracellular signals.

HOW IT WORKS

Research shows that anti-inflammatory foods containing quercetin

can help manage a number of inflammatory health problems,

including heart disease and blood vessel problems, allergies,

infections, chronic fatigue, and symptoms related to autoimmune

disorders like arthritis. How exactly do flavonoids benefit us? High

anti-oxidant foods have the ability to effectively scavenge free

radicals, thereby neutralising the damage to human cells.

APJ 30

Quercetin – the colourist of nature, is one of

the most abundant, multifaceted flavonoids.

As a major bioflavonoid in our diets, quercetin (a type of

“polyphenolic antioxidant”) helps slow the ageing progress

because it lessens the effects of oxidative stress on the body.

Oxidative stress takes place in all of us but is increased by things

like a poor diet, high levels of stress, a lack of sleep and exposure

to chemical toxins.

Quercetin plays a role in regulating the immune system’s response

to outside stressors through cell signalling pathways called kinases

and phosphatases, two types of enzyme and membrane proteins

needed for proper cellular function.

THE BENEFITS OF QUERCETIN

Quercetin has an impressive therapeutic profile in support of

health. Here is a summary of the key benefits that are supported

by studies:

* Lowers Inflammation

Flavonoids, (aka bioflavonoids or bioflavonoide) including

quercetin, are important anti-inflammatories because they act as

antioxidants, which mean they literally fight the natural process of

“oxidation” that takes place over time as we age.

Quercetin can help stop damaging particles in the body known as

free radicals, which negatively impact how cells work — including

damaging cell membranes, changing the way DNA works,

increasing cell mutations and causing healthy cells to die. It can

also reduce expression of inflammatory genes such as interleukin.

Research now shows us that inflammation is the root of most

diseases, including skin disorders, skin ageing, heart disease, cancer,

cognitive decline, some mental disorders and autoimmune disorders.

At this time, practitioners and patients report using quercetin to

effectively fight conditions related to inflammation, including:

• Atherosclerosis (hardening of the arteries)

• high cholesterol

• heart disease and circulation problems

• insulin resistance and diabetes

• eye-related disorders, including cataracts

• allergies, asthma and hay fever

• stomach ulcers

• cognitive impairment

• gout

• viral infections

• inflammation of the prostate, bladder and ovaries

• chronic fatigue syndrome

• cancer

• chronic infections of the prostate

• skin disorders, including dermatitis and hives.

* Fights Allergies

Studies also consider quercetin to be a natural antihistamine and

an anti-inflammatory, possibly making it effective for lowering

the effects of seasonal and food allergies, plus asthma and skin

reactions. However, most research to date has been conducted on

animals and not humans.

Histamines are chemicals that are released when the immune

system detects an allergy or sensitivity, and they contribute to

the uncomfortable symptoms we face whenever the body has

APJ 31

an allergic reaction. Quercetin can help stabilise the release of

histamines from certain immune cells, which results in decreased

symptoms like coughs, watery eyes, runny noses, hives, swollen

lips or tongue, and indigestion. It has long been used in ancient

Chinese herbal formulas to block allergies to certain foods (such

as peanuts). Studies conducted on mice suggest that it may be

equivalent at fighting allergies as some prescription medications,

all with little to no side effects.

* Supports blood vessel-related disorders

Because of its ability to lower inflammation and oxidative stress,

quercetin seems to be beneficial for people with heart and blood

vessel-related disorders, according to a number of studies.

For example, eating lots of deeply coloured fruits and veggies

that contain flavonoids is linked to a lower risk of cardiovascular

disease, and even death, in older adults, amongst reducing risk of

vascular diseases.

Studies also shown that quercetin has been shown to reduced risk

for type 2 diabetes and obesity, which have many of the same risk

factors as heart disease.

Studies conducted on animal and some human populations have

shown that various types of flavonoids (quercetin, resveratrol and

catechins, for example) can help reduce the risk of atherosclerosis,

which is a dangerous condition caused by plaque building up

within the arteries. Cut-off blood flow in the arteries is one of

the primary risk factors for experiencing a heart attack or stroke,

which is why cardiac arrest is less likely among people who eat a

nutrient-packed diet.

Antioxidants also seem to protect the body from experiencing

increases in LDL “bad” cholesterol and can help regulate blood

pressure levels. Certain studies show that quercetin prevents

damage to LDL cholesterol particles, and it seems that people

who eat the most flavonoid-rich foods typically have healthier and

lower cholesterol levels, plus fewer incidences of hypertension and

high blood pressure.

* Helps Fight Pain

Taking quercetin supplements may help lower pain associated with

autoimmune conditions such as arthritis, as well as infections,

including those of the prostate and respiratory tract. That’s

because studies suggest quercetin reduces inflammatory pain.

For example, there’s some evidence from several small studies

that people experiencing bladder pains from infections (causing

an urgent need to urinate, swelling and burning) have fewer

symptoms when taking quercetin supplements.

Flavonoids are also linked to reduced symptoms of prostatitis

(inflammation of the prostate) and rheumatoid arthritis (RA).

There’s evidence that when patients with RA switch from eating

a “typical Western diet” to one higher in antioxidant-rich foods

(like uncooked berries, fruits, vegetables, nuts, roots, seeds and

sprouts), they experience less pain and reoccurring symptoms.

* Might Help Improve Energy and Endurance

Quercetin is added to some athletic supplements because it’s

believed to help increase athletic performance and endurance,

likely because of its positive effects on blood flow.

Researchers from the School of Applied Physiology at the Georgia

Institute of Technology found that, on average, “quercetin provides

a statistically significant benefit in human endurance exercise

capacity (VO2 max) and endurance exercise performance).”

While improvements were at times small, it makes sense that

antioxidants could boost physical performance since they help

increase the health of blood vessels, which carry oxygen and

nutrients to muscle and joint tissue.

Other studies also show that it helps increase immune function

and prevents susceptibility to illnesses that can occur when

someone trains intensely and experiences exhaustion. One study

found evidence that taking 500 milligrams of quercetin twice

daily helped protect cyclers from developing exercise-induced

respiratory infections following periods of heavy exercise.

* Might Help Fight Cancer

A Boston University School of Medicine study published in the

Journal of Biological Regulators and Homeostatic Agents shows

a link between a nutrient-dense diet rich in quercetin plus other

antioxidants and a lowered risk of cancer. Quercetin seems to

have potential chemo-preventative activity and might have a

unique antiproliferative effect on cancerous cells, making it an

effective addition to any natural cancer treatment approach.

Research shows that this may result from the modulation of either

EGFR or estrogen-receptor pathways.

Recent studies have found quercetin can help stop the processes

involved in cell proliferation and mutation, the growth of tumours,

and symptoms related to typical cancer treatments, such as

radiation or chemotherapy.

At this time, the majority of studies done on quercetin’s effects

on cellular functioning have involved animals, so more research is

still needed to reveal specific effects on human cancer cells. This

is especially true when taken in high doses above the amount

someone would get from a healthy diet.

* Helps Protect Skin Health

Capable of blocking “mast cells,” which are immune cells

critical in triggering allergic reactions, inflammatory disease

and autoimmune disease, research shows that quercetin helps

protect skin from the effects of disorders like dermatitis and

photosensitivity.

Flavonoids like quercetin block the release of many pro-

APJ 32

Flavonoids, like quercetin, block the release of many

pro-inflammatory cytokines, such as IL-8 and TNF, which helps stop

symptoms related to skin inflammation, even in people who don’t find

relief from other conventional treatments or prescriptions.

inflammatory cytokines, such as IL-8 and TNF, which helps stop

symptoms related to skin inflammation, even in people who don’t

find relief from other conventional treatments or prescriptions.

Studies have found that this compound has antioxidant and antiinflammatory

effects that help fight allergic and inflammatory

diseases, as well as some prescriptions, when taken in oral

supplement form. For example, some people take quercetin for

eczema since it can inhibit the secretion of histamine and proinflammatory

markers.

* Protects Liver Health

Recent research has shown that this antioxidant has protective

effects when administered to rats with ethanol-induced acute

liver injury. Researchers concluded that “quercetin, by multiple

mechanisms interplay, demonstrates hepatoprotective effect on

liver-injury induced by alcohol, by increasing ethanol metabolizing

enzyme activities, increasing antioxidant system activities against

oxidative stress, lowering the expressions of pro-inflammation

cytokines.”

A 2017 study found evidence indicating that quercetin attenuates

liver inflammation and fibrosis in mice through inhibiting

macrophages infiltration. Researchers believe it “holds promise

as potential therapeutic agent for human fibrotic liver disease”,

a condition triggered by liver injury and inflammation.

* Protects Against Neurological Disorders

There’s mounting evidence showing that quercetin offers

neuroprotective benefits, due to its ability to defend the brain

against oxidative stress and inflammation, leading to potentially

less risk for cognitive conditions like Alzheimer’s disease

and dementia.

A 2018 study concluded that “findings suggest a possible new

protective role for dietary flavonoids on alzheimer’s disease (AD).”

The study found that administration of quercetin in early-middle

stages of AD pathology ameliorates cognitive dysfunction and

boosts protection mainly related to increased Aβ clearance and

reduced astrogliosis, which is related to destruction of neurons.

FOOD SOURCES

What foods have the most quercetin? All types of tasty red, green

and purple-pigmented plants come packed with quercetin — for

example, red wine, blueberries, red, yellow and green capsicums,

apples, red onion and even green and black tea are some of the

best sources. In terms of herbs, sage, St.John’s wort and ginkgo

biloba are known to be rich in quercetin.

SUPPLEMENTS AND DOSAGE

Quercetin supplements are available in all types of pills or

capsules and are commonly used in formulas along with other

anti-inflammatory ingredients. There is also an Australia-made

natural Liposomal Elixir available through INBOUND NATURE that

produces a high-quality quercetin, including other liposomal elixirs

such as Vitamin C, Magnesium, Turmeric and Vitamin D (see page

38 for furthr details).

There isn’t a daily recommended amount of quercetin intake, so

dosage recommendations can vary, depending on your health

condition. For people who turn to quercetin supplements,

common oral dosages are 500 milligrams taken twice daily, but it’s

also definitely possible to experience benefits when taking lower

doses.

SIDE EFFECTS AND RISKS

Because it’s derived naturally from foods, quercetin seems to

be safe for almost everyone and poses little risks. According to

a 2018 report, most studies have found little to no side effects

in people eating nutrient-dense diets high in quercetin or taking

supplements by mouth short term. APJ

Ref: Please contact the author for a full list of references.

APJ 33

STAR PERFORMER

UNVEILING RADIANT SKIN

with Synbiotics Next-level of skincare innovation

At the recent APAN Aesthetics

Conference, a new niche skincare brand

was making waves. The Celbio products

have a special blend of live microorganism

- Prebiotic, Probiotic and Postbiotic - that

creates a harmonious environment for the

skin’s microbiome to flourish, enhancing

its natural defences, restoring skin

radiance and vitality.

Celbio consists of a unique range of five

products that synergistically work together

to restore skin health and take your skin

treatment results to the next level. The

ingredients in each product are specially

curated to enhance the skin’s equilibrium,

nourishing it and preventing oxidative

stress, while balancing the skins natural

pH. The product range consists of a

collection of five products:

• Active Synbiotic Cleanser: A

mild cleanser responsible for

regulating the beneficial microbes,

nourishing the skin and soothing

skin inflammation, while clearing

pathogens.

• Daily Synbiotic Moisturiser:

Responsible for nourishing

the skin, harmonising skin

inflammation and supporting the

integrity of collagen and elastin in

the skin, as well as preventing the

oxidative stress caused by daily

exposure to pollutants and other

environmental factors.

• Night Synbiotic Moisturiser: A deeply penetrating night formula to help

rebalance, hydrate and restore the skin’s immune response, while soothing,

nourishing and rejuvenating the skin while you sleep.

• Boosting Serum: A highly active cell-boosting serum, that provides the skin with

the necessary hydration and plumpness to support and restore the skin’s health

and youthful appearance.

• Lightening Serum: A powerful serum designed to help even out skin tone and

reduce the appearance of dark spots, hyperpigmentation, or discolouration.

REVOLUTIONISING ORAL CARE WITH SYNBIOTICS

Not just skincare, Celbio has also developed a unique Celbio toothpaste to enhance the

microbiome of the mouth, supporting not just the health of the gums and teeth, but also

safe for the gut, if swallowed. Studies now confirm the bacterial connection between

the oral cavity and gut disease. In fact, the oral cavity harbors one of the most diverse

and abundant microbial communities within the human body, second to the community

that resides in the gastrointestinal tract and is composed of over770 bacterial species.

Commonly used toothpastes and mouth washers often contain anti-bacterial agents

that strip both the bad and good bacteria in the mouth and destroy the oral

cavity’s microbiome.

The Celbio toothpaste promotes a healthy oral microbiome through a blend of

prebiotics, probiotics, and postbiotics. The unique oral formula nourishes beneficial oral

microorganisms, inhibits harmful bacteria, and promotes tooth remineralisation. The

probiotic Bacillus Subtilis acts as a defence modulator, pathogen destroyer and remover,

while also safeguarding the gut microbiome (please see page 36 for further details). APJ

Celbio 07 55982411 (Ext.4)

E: celbioau@gmail.com | www.celbio.com.au

APJ 34

The King of Boutique

Formulations

Give yourself a winning edge in the

market with the next-generation skincare

formulation, backed by the latest Synbiotic

approach to restoring a balanced and

healthier skin.

Celbio delivers amazing benefits. It protects

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stress, calms and optimizes the immune

function by successfully restoring the skin’s

microbiome, soothing, and improving

hydration levels, while strengthening the

skin’s tolerance to more invasive procedures.

This niche product range will support

your clinical results and is suitable for

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who are seeking an affordable product

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Supported by numerous evidence based

active ingredients such as Niacinamide,

Hyaluronic acid (both high and low

molecular weight), Retinol and Vitamin C

in the form of Ascorbyl Glucoside, just to

name a few. It also contains a unique blend

of Jojoba oil as well as Watermelon oil and

much more …

Whether you are seeking for a small niche

range to complement your more expensive

skincare products, that is more affordable,

yet still high-quality, or you would like

to introduce your clients to a beautiful,

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offers you the perfect solution.

Contact us today!

Celbio 07 55982411 (Ext.4)

celbioau@gmail.com

www.celbio.com.au

APJ 35

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in the skin. PRO Restore is recommended for all skin conditions

undergoing advanced services. It will amplify your treatment results

post Microneedling, RF Microneedling, Fibroblast Skin Tightening,

lasers and chemical peels.

Contact Dermalogica Pro 1800 659 188 or

visit www.pro.dermalogica.com.au

THE ULTIMATE HAIR

THICKENING SERUM

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To place an order:

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OVERNIGHT RECOVERY MASK – ROCCOCO BOTANICALS

Reset your skin’s Circadian Rhythm and boost epidermal hydration reservoirs with Roccoco’s Overnight

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to boost cell viability and protect against pollution. Skin irritation is eliminated, and a homogenous skin tone is restored.

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BRUSH, SWOLLOW AND SMILE

Celbio have launched the next generation toothpaste Celbio Oral, designed

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a unique probiotic system consisting of a blend of prebiotics, probiotics and

postbiotics providing superior oral health protection. Celbio Oral is pleasant

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peroxide or dyes, and is aligned with dental hygiene trends. Offer something

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Celbio 07 55982411 (Ext.4) | E: celbioau@gmail.com | www.celbio.com.au

APJ 36

AWARD-WINNING GLOBALLY RENOWNED SKINCARE

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PEPTIDE SERUM TO RESTORE

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NEW LIGHT ENERGY MASQUE

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Contact Dermalogica Pro 1800 659 188 or visit www.pro.dermalogica.com.au

AMPLIFY YOUR SKIN TREATMENT RESULTS WITH CLINICALLY

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• Significant increase in skin luminosity and gloss by up to 60%

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APJ 37

PRODUCTS TRENDING

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APJ 38

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APJ 39

BUSINESS PROFILE

INNOVATORS OF

LEADING

AESTHETIC

SOLUTIONS

Mike Matkovcik is the director and founder of MM Medical

Aesthetics a division of the well-known MM Beauty Equipment

Services Pty Ltd operating for over 27 years, Mike holds a

bachelor’s degree in Biomedical Rngineering that he obtained

from the Slovak Technical University (STU) in 1990. On

immigrating to Australia 28 years ago his qualifications were

recognised by NOOSR as a Bachelor of Science (medical

equipment). Today, Mike’s engineering skills, as well as his

business acumen, have enabled him to lead the way in some

impressive advances in medical aesthetic technologies.

Here is a glimpse of his journey.

IT ALL STARTED WITH A MACHINE BREAKDOWN

“After arriving to Australia, I started working as Service Manager for a

medical company Gammasonics P/L in Five Dock, Sydney. One day the

boss’s wife had returned in the office very upset – she went for a beauty

treatment, but her treatment could not be completed because the

machine her therapists was using had broken down and the salon had no

idea who can fix it,” Mike said.

“I recognised a huge opportunity, so I grabbed a copy of Yellow Pages,

sent letters to all the salons offering them a repair/service for their

devices. This marked the beginning of my involvement with aesthetic

devices. I ran the equipment repair business as a secondary job, but

APJ 40

Mike MatkAovcik

by 1997, I quit my fulltime job and by 2002 my sole trader business

was replaced by MM Beauty Equipment Services Pty Ltd. Since then

my company became an authorised service agent for large companies

such as, STEREX UK, WELLA Germany, GOLDWELL, ELLA BACHE,

SALONQUIP, JOIKEN, Ra Fischer USA, and many more.

“During my journey, I have met some amazing people in the industry like

Caroline Moran, mum of celebrity chef Matt Moran. Caroline who has

worked with us for over a decade as our sales agent. One day Caroline

asked me if I could design and manufacture cosmetic equipment

such as, Microdermabrasion, Microcurrent , Electrolysis .Epi Peel

Micodermabrasion, and so Mike’s own designs were born. These devices

were locally manufactured in Sydney for over 15 years. Following the

success of Epi Peel, Superlif Microcurrent was also locally designed and

manufactured. This led to a new chapter for my company – designing

and manufacturing aesthetic medical devices, and the rest as they say, is

history,” Mike said.

Today, MM Medical Aesthetics is a high respected company that

enjoys an excellent reputation as a manufacturer and distributor of

leading, high-quality, high-performance cosmetic medical devices.

Recently, we interviewed Mike and asked him to share his advice

for business owners who are seeking to access a quality device

for their business. Here are his key recommendations:

1. Thoroughly check the company’s reputation, also check the

ACN number and how long have they been registered with

ASIC - if it is less that two, seek advice from an industry body

such as APAN. Also, do they have an ABN number? With

these checks, you can at least be assured that they are a legal

well established business entity.

2. While in the past aesthetic devices included basic machines,

such as high-frequency, brush machine and vapozones, today

nearly all aesthetic devices create physiological changes to

the human body and are classified by the TGA as “medical

devices”. Therefore, they need to be TGA registered and

included on ARTG registry. It is important that the device you

purchase meets with this requirement.

3. Another issue to consider is to ensure that the device is not

“copy-branded”. Make sure that the company distributing the

brand is the rightful owner and not selling knock off copies or

using names similar to well-known brands. This can get you

in a lot of legal problems.

4. Every device will at some stage require upkeep or servicing.

Make sure that the company you purchase from has a

reputable local service network, as well as readily available

parts within Australia.

5. When it comes to training there are two considerations:

First: Make sure that you receive appropriate training and

ongoing support from your supplier. Every device has its own

individual features, so this training must be included as part

of your purchase. It is dangerous to buy a device without

appropriate training on the safety parameters and a thorough

knowledge of their correct operating procedures, as each

device is unique.

Second: Seek independent training in the science of that

technology. For example, if you are buying a laser or IPL,

undertake comp_rehensive training, laser safety training, as

well as a qualification, if these are available. This will allow

you to expand your knowledge in the principles of that

technology and gain greater comprehension on how it will

impact the human cells. Pursue any education or professional

development courses that will allow you to operate with

the highest level of safety and efficacy, so that you can

consistently improve your treatment outcomes.

So, what can a business expect when purchasing a device from

MM Medical Aesthetics?

“We offer full training, as well as ongoing support, both technical and

operational. We also provide comprehensive promotional and marketing

materials to help the business to correctly promote their treatments for

the purpose of engaging existing client, as well as attracting on-going

new clients. It is important to us that the business achieves excellent

treatment results, and that our devices are a profitable investment that

contributes to their business growth,” Mike confirmed. APJ

APJ 41

MM MEDICAL AESTHETIC DEVICE INNOVATIONS

1999 | “Epiblend” Electrolysis

This electrolysis machine was born, featuring Mike’s own design,

custom manufactured locally in his private Sydney workshop.

2000 | “Superlift” Nonsurgical facelift

This was also designed and locally manufactured in Mike’s private

Sydney workshop. It was subsequently featured in Professional

Beauty Magazine with the headline was “Forget Superman, now we

have Superlift”.

2000 | Epi Peel Microdermabrasion

This was also Mike’s personal design, manufactured in his private

workshop in Sydney and was in production for 15 years till 2015.

Hundreds of these devices were produced and sold Australia-wide

and were also exported to Vietnam and New Zealand.

2007 | Launched the ELIS range

IPL machines and Lasers. TGA Listed and sold throughout Australia.

2008 | Alpha Shape

Australian designed body shaping device was introduced

in a new partnership MedicAge Pty Ltd.

2009 | OPTILUX LED

These systems were released to the market.

2012 | SHR IPL

One of the first importers in Australia making the new

generation of SHR popular – in motion IPL technology.

2012 | THERMA B

Imported to Australia and manufactured by DAEYANG

Medical Co, a Korean made monopolar RF systems.

2014 | Liftron Thermatrix

Korean Fractional RF introduced by DAEYANG Medical Company,

the only one of its kind on the market with Mono and Bipolar

technology in the one device.

2016 | IPL, SHR with BBR

Introduced new generation ApoloMed IPL SHR with BBR

and Stack Modes, allowing pain-free hair reduction and skin

rejuvenation treatments.

2016 | HIFU

Launch of HIFU system.

2016 | Business relocation

After 21 years in Sydney our company relocated to the

Gold Coast – Sanctuary Cove QLD 4212.

2017 | PlasmaLift

Introduction of Plasma technology.

2018 | PURISMA

Introduction of Plasmalift Pro – PURISMA, a no downtime

option Plasma made by 50-year old Korean manufacturer

DAEYANG Medical.

2018 | Optilux Elite

Introduction of Optilux Elite, Korean made LED systems with two

colour options - red and blue, suitable for treating face and body.

2019 | CMSliR Contouring

MasterR HI-EMTR

Introduced a revolutionary electromagnetic muscle

stimulation system, made by DAEYANG Medical.

For over 25 years MM Medical Aesthetics has consistently introduced quality devices to an

ever-growing loyal customer base of beauty and aesthetic business owners.

Phone: 07 5577 9881 | 0414 970 019 | www.mmmedicalaesthetics com

APJ 42

AESTHETIC MEDICAL DEVICES FOR AESTHETIC PROFESSIONALS

MM Medical Aesthetics has been

operating for 25+ years providing

sales, service, import and

training of a wide variety of the

highest quality medical aesthetic

devices and beauty equipment.

See our full range

NEW

GENERATION

CMSlim ® & HIPEX Chair

ElectroMagnetic muscle stimulator and

High Intensity Pelvic Exercise Chair

CMSlim - TGA ARTG #338736

ELIS IPL / SHR / BBR

Super-fast SHR pain-free permanent

hair reduction and skin rejuvenation

TGA ARTG #151808

PURISMA Plus Jet Plasma

Multi-purpose plasma lifting platform

and TDDS for professionals

TGA ARTG #339842

HIPRO S HIFU

Medical grade HIFU face and

body contouring treatments

TGA ARTG #329238

EVE FACELIFT

EMS | RF | Micro-current |

Hydra-dermabrasion

DERMATRIX DUO

Micro-needle fractional

RF platform

TGA ARTG #405991

See you at APAN conference 14-15 th July 2023, Royal Pines Resort Gold Coast

(07) 5577 9881 0414 970 019

www.mmmedicalaesthetics.com.au

APJ 43

RETAIL AESTHETICS

LASH

GROWTH

SERUM

The new trend is lash enhancement

Iola Ciavarra - Director, Reveal

Introducing the option of lash growth serums which are now

gaining popularity. This amazing new trend brings hope for those

who wish to strengthen and improve the length of their own

lashes and as a salon and clinic owner it is an excellent retail item

to stock. In this article Iola Ciavarra expands on this trend and

shares valuable information on what ingredients to look that are

safe, and which ingredients to avoid and why.

According to market research data, the growing fashion trend or

beautiful lashes is not slowing down any time soon. At a whopping

global market size of 1.5 billion USD in 2021 alone*, the Lash

Enhancement sector is expected to have its fastest growth rate

between now and 2024.

With social media the driving force in the time of COVID, the “lash

trend” has become popular for consumers of all ages. And not just

for special occasions, but for the everyday.

In 2020 and 2021, lash enhancement lovers, missing out on their

lash enhancement treatment in beauty salons and lash “bars” due

to COVID, benefited from at-home Lash and Brow growth serums.

These conditioning serums have since dominated the market for

consumers enjoying a more natural look and for those wishing to

repair and prevent damaged lashes from lash extensions.

Over the past decade the craze for volume lashes and lash

extensions has dominated as a leading and ever-growing

consumer trend. And while they can frame and beautifully

enhance the appearance of the eyes, they require on-going

maintenance, while also having the potential to wreak havoc on

the natural lashes. It is a well-known fact that with continued

use, extensions can contribute to lash breakage and weakening

of the natural lashes, not to mention that some glues can cause

irritations and even allergic reactions. Despite their challenges,

once consumer get conditioned to having long, fluffy and

beautiful dense lashes, going back to their weaker and thinner

natural lashes is often a disappointing experience.

So, if you thought that the lash game wasn’t really your bag, now

may just be the time to reconsider and take advantage of this growing

trend, by simply adding a lash serum to your aesthetic lineup.

Lash Conditioning Serums (aka Lash Growth Serums depending

on which country you’re legislated by) are a simple solution to

achieving softer, longer, stronger, denser lashes – and brows of

your own, in a matter of weeks.

Here are the top six things to look out for when choosing a lash

serum for your salon or clinic:

1. Clinically validated formula: look beyond just the

individual ingredient for a clinical validation of the

complete formula.

APJ 44

2. Safe to use twice a day: To gain maximum benefit the

formula must be safer to use twice a day both for upper

and lower lashes.

3. Safe to use with existing lash extensions. As some clients

may wish to use the serum to strengthen their natural

lashes, while still adding extra volume through extensions.

Make sure that the formula is safe to use in conjunction

with lash extensions.

4. Custom-made and hygienically sealed (did you know that

the vast majority of lash serums on the market are “white

labelled”, i.e. just repackaged formulas. Copy and paste

the ingredients list in your search bar and you might be

surprised that the same formula is sold for price variants of

between $20-$150)

5. Look for quality and safe ingredients. For best results look

for three peptides that will work on all three stages of lash

growth (helping to stop hair fallout as well as

encouraging growth)

6. Salon-centric – choose a product company that supports

your professional endeavours by not discounting

elsewhere online.

7. Digital marketing training. Look for a company that will

provide you with the appropriate training on effective

digital marketing and training tools for you to use on your

socials and website freely.

8. Prostaglandin free: Look for a formula that does not

contain prostaglandin hormone ingredient, or any

ingredient with the letters “prost” within it. Why is this

important?

Prostaglandin lash serums are banned in Australia for cosmetic

purposes. Prostaglandin based products, indicated for the

treatment of Glaucoma, are available on prescription only

in Australia and Canada where cosmetic regulations are

stringent, but are freely available in other countries like the US.

Prostaglandins can cause side effects like irritation, dry eye, styes

and darkening of the iris/ eye lid. There are incidences of “spiked”

Lash Serums being recalled. You can google recalls on specific

products for up-to-date information. APJ

* verifiedmarketresearch.com

For further information visit

www.revealaustralia.com.au

So, if you thought that the lash game wasn’t really your

bag, now may just be the time to reconsider and take

advantage of this growing trend, by simply adding

a lash serum to your aesthetic lineup.

APJ 45

LIGHT TECHNOLOGY

HYPERLIGHT

TECHNOLOGY

A NEW DIMENSION FOR CLINICS

Kate White

In our fast-paced and technology-driven world, finding moments of stillness and connection

with our inner selves can be challenging. As individuals seeking holistic approaches to

wellbeing, various alternative therapies have emerged, each offering unique benefits for the

mind, body and soul. Among these is the Bioptron Hyperlight Therapy, which stands out as an

award-winning, intriguing method that not only promotes physical healing but also facilitates

a profound soulful experience.

THE DANCE OF LIGHT AND SOUL

Light has long been revered as a symbol of both physical healing as

well as spiritual enlightenment in various cultures and belief systems.

Bioptron Hyperlight Therapy with its carefully selected spectrum

of polarised light, mimics the beneficial qualities of natural

sunlight with no UV. The latest advancements in quantum physics

have now enabled aaptron to incorporate the Fullerene C60

nano particle into the broad-spectrum filter shining the perfect

Fibonacci pattern onto the body.

The serendipitous discovery of Fullerene C60, which resulted

in the 1996 Nobel Prize in chemistry, triggered a new field of

research, introducing the world to a new kind of symmetric

quantum nanomaterials, thus opening an entirely new chapter of

nanotechnology and nanomedicine: these studies led scientists

and engineers to think of the multiple applications that the C60

could contribute, e.g. new medical treatments even to prolong life.

In 2017, inspired by the properties of the Nobel Prize winning

discovery of fullerene molecule and understanding the biology of

life, scientists have developed and patented the unique Hyperlight

Optics®, act as nanophotonic generators that transform Vertically

Linearly Polarized Light (VLPL) into Hyperpolarised Light with

quantum properties.

BIOPTRON® Hyperlight provides:

1. information,

2. energy and

3. vibrations deep into the body, biostructures and organs,

bringing the whole-body system into homeostasis (internal

natural stability).

How it works:

Polarised light / Fullerene Hyperlight C60 filter / Quantum hyperlight/

Tesla Torus

POINT OF DIFFERENCE: BIOPTRON HYPERLIGHT v LED LIGHT

We are sometimes asked how is Bioptron HyperLight different to

LED and what is its competitive advantage? Bioptron HyperLight

is considered soft laser because it is 95% polarised light.

Bioptron Hyperpolarised Light penetrates deeper into the body

because of the C60 hyperlight filter which orders and focuses the

light beams to ensure greater penetration and absorption. It also

shines the perfect Fibonacci pattern onto the body and through

the law of resonance brings the body back into balance (see above

diagram).

Usually, LED light machines only feature 1-3 wavelengths of

light (e.g., blue, red or yellow). Bioptron has a broad-spectrum filter

covering 350nm to 3400nm (all colours of the visible spectrum plus

near infrared).

THINK OUTSIDE THE BOX

Incorporating Bioptron Hyperlight Therapy into a soul and body

practices can foster a sense of wholeness and interconnectedness.

By addressing physical ailments and nurturing the soul

simultaneously, individuals can experience a more profound sense

of balance within themselves and with the world around them.

FULL BODY TREATMENT (Home Treatment)

This is an example of how we have incorporated Bioptron

Hyperlight Therapy works synergistically with pyramids, magnets,

geometry, Schumann resonance devices and aromatic oils and

beautiful sound. Here the photo shows my private healing space

APJ 46

with a pyramid configuration with the head position pointing

North. We are using Bioptron Pro 1 with the hyperlight C60 Filter.

To amplify the setting, each copper bar is heightened with lab

grown crystals wrapped in copper wire creating a magnet to

further amp up the experience. Underneath is large quartz crystals

placed on a Schumann resonance device (Q wave) on top of a

silver high frequency magnetised plate. The Schumann resonances

are a set of spectrum peaks in the extremely low frequency

portion of the Earth’s electromagnetic field spectrum.

For further information please contact: Kate White

Light Frequency | 0414 838 874 | kate@lightfrequency.com.au

All APAN members receive a 10% discount

During a treatment session we use high frequency aromatic

essential oils such as Rose or Frankincense to hold the frequency

and also clear any dross energy that may release.

Playing beautiful music is also fantastic. I like Constance Demby

“Sanctum Sanctuorum” and “Faces of the Christ” because of the

beautiful solfeggio tones.

A TREATMENT WITH A POINT OF DIFFERENCE

You are an electromagnetic being of light and without light in your

body, you would not survive. People think they need water and

food to survive, yes, they do, but you also need light! The light is

what gives you the energy and the joie de vivre.

The world is morphing towards more holistic treatment options.

Clinics and salons can benefit from an evolving consumer mindset

to incorporate more holistic and alternative therapies into their

treatments and services. The body will heal itself if stress is

relieved through proven methods that offer deep relaxation. This

Bioptron Hyperlight provides the latest cutting-edge quantum

physics light technology to provide the space for you to do it!

Bioptron Hyperlight provides you with options - skin and facial

therapies, as well as full body wellness options. With Bioptron,

your salon or clinic can now achieve amazing skin repair and

incredible wellness results as your unique point of difference. APJ

APJ 47

STAR PERFORMER

EVE TAYLOR LONDON

THE AWARD-WINNING PROFESSIONAL FORMULATIONS

FOR SKIN SOLUTIONS AND STRESS MANAGEMENT

Recent and ongoing clinical studies have shown promising pharmacological responses

of essential oils in the nervous system leading to anxiolytic, antidepressant, sedative,

and anticonvulsant effects. Studies have also evidenced the involvement of multiple

neurotransmitter systems in the mode of action of essential oils, resulting in measurable

physiological effects in the brain. Furthermore, it is a well-known fact that essential oil

with their small molecular structures, can penetrate the blood-brain barrier influencing

the human central nervous system and delivering a positive effect in lowering stress

levels by modulating cortisol and enhancing dopamine and endorphins, improving mood

and wellbeing.

EXPAND YOUR KNOWLEDGE

As a qualified professional, you can gain access to the Eve Taylor comprehensive educational

portal and expand your knowledge through an extensive range of training modules. Gain

also direct access to resources for your treatment protocols and business operations.

Learn how to customise essential oil blends to the specific needs of your clients.

With over 150 essential oils and carrier oils to choose from you can achieve amazing

treatment outcomes to relieve stress, improve mood, while also hydrating and energising

the skin. You can also calm irritated skin and restore the skin’s barrier function.

MAKE RETAILING EASY

Apart from a comprehensive range of professional skincare products and essential

oils Eve Taylor also makes retailing products so easy. Beautifully presented Perfect

Partner Packages are teamed to address skincare objectives through complete Skincare

Collection Kits, such as Refine & Brighten, Age Resist, Balancing, Cleanse and Refine,

Purifying, Soothing Skincare, as well as a Kit Specifically for Men.

There has never been a better time to

introduce treatment protocols that

address not just evidence-based skin

treatments, but also proven protocols that

lower stress levels and support overall

health and wellbeing. Introducing whole

body solutions will give your business the

competitive advantage.

Eve Taylor is no newcomer as a skincare

brand,. This year the company celebrates

60-years as a leading global brand

renowned for its consistent quality

and incredible results. The Eve Taylor

formulations meet with the highest

manufacturing standards and ingredient

purity, including carefully selected

essentials oils renowned for the

purity and efficacy.

With essential oils choose from a comprehensive range of both individual oils, or from a

selection of synergistic blends to optimise relaxation and soothe the mind. Experience

their amazing Body Recovery Treatments, Comprehensive Facial Moisturisers,

Treatment Serums, Hand and Foot Care, Aroma Soy Massage Candles, as well as a

complete range for delicious Bath, Shower and Shaving products. It’s no wonder that

Eve Taylor is the product of choice to thousands of UK salons, spas and clinics, and a

favourite also with most government-approved training colleges.

A CONFERENCE SENSATION

Launching the acquisition of the Australian Eve Taylor distribution at the APAN

Conference, Tracey Cox (also known as TraceyO) was inundated with eager business

owners wanting to incorporate the Eve Taylor experience to their treatment modalities,

especially having witnessed the amazing stress-relieving benefits, not just for the

clients, but also for the practitioners who can enjoy the uplifting and nurturing aromatic

environment that is possible with the Eve Taylor essential oils and luscious face and

body treatments.

To introduce Eve Taylor London to your clients,

contact TraceyO and her team:

1300 383 829 | 0448 390 022

E: info@evetaylor.com.au | `www.evetaylor.com.au

APJ 48

A 60-YEAR

LEGACY OF

TIMELESS

PROFESSIONAL

SKIN & BODY

SOLUTIONS

Time-proven formulations that nurture and rejuvenate, while

enhancing wellbeing.

• NO minimum opening

• NO minimum opening order

• Excellent mark-up and competitive prices

• Sold only through professional outlets

• International standard of Education

and Clincal training

• Exceptional marketing support

• Time-honoured proven-effective

formulations

• Available in over 45 nations

• Comprehensive and specialty ranges

for advances skin treaments, body care,

pregnancy, men’s range,over 150 blended

aromatherapy formulations, individual

pure essential oils and carrier oils.

Be part of the legacy!

1300 383 892 | 0448 390 022 | info@evetaylor.com.au | www.evetaylor.com.au

APJ 49

BUSINESS

BUSINESS

INSURANCE:

REVIEWING THE EMERGING NEW THREATS

An Interview with Suzanne Sparrow

There was a time when businesses could experience a relatively

smooth operational history without the disruption of client

or patient litigation. However, since the pandemic, there is a

disturbing shift towards frequent demands for refunds, with

sometimes disruptive consumer behaviour becoming an evergrowing

phenomenon. To investigate these trends and identify

ways for businesses to gain a better understanding of how to

guard against such incidences, we spoke with Suzanne Sparrow

founder and director of Sparrow Insurance.

APJ Q1: Sue, as an industry specific insurance broker, how

have the frequency of claims changed over the past three

years and are you seeing any patterns?

Sue: In recent times claims have increased by a staggering 50%, so

thank you for the opportunity to share with the industry valuable

information that can help protect their businesses and their future.

There are several behavioural issues that are now creating a

pattern, namely the frequency of individuals seeking refunds based

on a lack of satisfaction of the result of their treatment, rather

than due to practitioner error. Consumers are becoming very

crafty with their terminology and are quite strategic, abusive at

times, attacking practitioners and demanding refunds and damages

for situations that are often unrealistic. These can be very traumatic

for business owners and can result in a growing fear that everyone

is out to get them, which can be quite disruptive to their focus in

growing their business.

We have had cases where there has even been physical violence

where a salon owner was thrown to the ground, or instances

where they have been repeatedly texted with abusive comments

all hour of the night. These instances are become more and more

frequent, and they can be damaging to both the owner and the

staff’s morale and contribute even to mental health issues.

APJ Q2: Through yours and your team’s support, have you

been able to prevent cases going to court?

Sue: As the issue of claims is becoming more complex, this can

be very traumatic and disruptive to a business owner. Our role

is to support them strategically and legally, providing them with

skilled professional help, minimising the impact of their risks and

trauma. We guide them through their challenges and present

them with their best options. Some cased that go to court could

take three to five years, so we guide them on how to prevent

or minimise these disruptions. We also have been able to help

minimise a claim to as low as $120 instead of $1000. In other

instances where someone is seeking compensation of $100,000,

our legal team was able to drop this to $20,000. We recently had

a case where we were able to negotiate and settle out of court

for $5000 instead of $80,000. When faced with these situations,

there are two key elements needed – legal astuteness to navigate

the threats, and the reassurance of care that someone skilled is

standing with you to help you move forward with the least amount

of loss and trauma.

Another objective for us to help businesses minimise claims, as if

a particular procedure is experiencing regular incidences of high

payout figures, the insurance company may decline to cover it in

the future or they may substantially increase the premium.

APJ Q3: In recent times, have you added any additional cover

to your policies to maximise protection for business owners?

Sue: As you can imagine, with the lockdowns there are many

challenges with landlord disputes. So, we have added two

additional covers to help protect businesses - one being additional

cover of up to $25,000 for landlord conflicts and the other, a cover

for cybercrime. When a business is hacked, they can lose valuable

data which can be highly disruptive and contribute to financial

losses. We regularly review growing risks and look at ways to

provide added protection for business owners.

APJ Q4: What are the most common misconceptions you are

seeing that is putting businesses at risk?

Sue: I would have to say that the issue of cutting corners by not

telling us all the treatments they perform. This puts them at risk

in the event of a claim for a procedure that is not included in their

policy. If a business is adding a new technology, such as a laser or

IPl, since their original cover, it is important to notify us to add it to

their policy. The other area in minimising risk is to ensure they are

trained and qualified in the procedures they perform.

APJ Q5: Apart from Professional Indemnity/Medical

Malpractice what other areas require protection that

often businesses neglect?

Sue: Sometimes business owners seek to cover themselves and

their staff for the procedures they perform, but neglect to cover

their property for theft and other damages or losses. Another area

that businesses need to be mindful of is if they are creating their

own skincare from home and there is a reaction. These matters

need to be disclosed to us. Part of our services is to review your

needs and provide you with the appropriate guidelines so that you

gain the best protection at the best premium. APJ

For all your needs and to talk to an expert phone 07 5502 8326

admin@sparrowinsurance.com.au | www.sparrowinsurance.com.au

APJ 50

APJ 51

SKIN INGREDIENT

WILD PANSY

A POWERHOUSE WITH DERMATOLOGICAL PROPERTIES

Tina Viney

You may have seen it as a decadent decoration on a celebrity

desert, or in a beautifully presented salad, yet the wild pansy is

not just a beautiful ornamental and edible flower, but in fact it is a

powerhouse of therapeutic constituents that may surprise you.

Let’s take a closer peep at this delicate and dainty little

flower and review its make-up and benefits, especially its

dermatological properties.

BACKGROUND

The wild pansy is a herbaceous plant of the family of the

Violaceae. Used for several centuries in phytotherapy, it contains

mucilages (uronic polysaccharides), tannins as well as phenolic

acids, including salicylic acid, methyl salicylate and violutoside. It

also contains flavonoids and anthocyanins.

Wild pansy has dermatological properties. Its use is particularly

recognised in the case of seborrheic skin disorders. Numerous

studies have been carried out on its action in skin pathologies

such as skin eruptions, acne and irritations. Wild pansy is also used

in cases of psoriasis and vulval itching.

The aerial flowering parts used in phytotherapy have antibacterial

properties due to their strong inhibitory effects, especially on

Candida albicans and Staphylococcus aureus.

Furthermore, like other plants of the Viola genus, wild pansy has

antipyretic, diuretic, antioxidant and analgesic properties.

MAIN DERMATOLOGICAL PROPERTIES

If the first scientific publications on the dermatological activity of

wild pansy date back to 1883 (Köhler); it was not until 1938 that

work demonstrated its therapeutic activity in a model of eczema,

with evidence of an improvement in skin disorders after adding

fresh wild pansies to the diet for two months, compared to a

control group. Since then, many publications (the last dating from

2009) mention the interest of Viola tricolor in the treatment of

various skin pathologies such as seborrheic conditions, impetigo,

acne and pruritus, vulvar irritation and itching, skin rashes, eczema,

seborrhoea of the scalp of newborns, psoriasis.

ANTIOXIDANT AND IMMUNE PROPERTIES

Using the TEAC method, a hydroalcoholic extract of fresh wild

pansy leaves or flowers revealed antioxidant activity, which was

at least equivalent to that of plants known to have this property,

such as ginkgo biloba. More recently, two methods (TEAC and

DPPH) used to assess the antioxidant potency of different wild

pansy extraction fractions have shown that polar components

have better activity; among these we find flavonoids such as rutin

and violanthine.

Thanks to the method of high-performance liquid chromatography

(HPLC) which proved to be linear, sensitive, precise, specific and

robust to quantify rutin in the extract of wild pansy, it was shown

that the antioxidant capacity of Viola tricolo r can be attributed

to the large amounts of polyphenols, flavonoids and condensed

tannins it contains.

In an in vitro model of ischemia and neurodegeneration, the

hydroalcoholic extract of V. tricolor protects neurons against

cell death induced by serum/glucose deprivation. This activity is

attributed, at least in part, to its antioxidant properties on reactive

oxygen species (ROS).

The aqueous extract of wild pansy is immunosuppressive;

activity attributed to its cytoclides, with well-identified cytotoxic

properties, which interfere with the polyfunctionality of T

lymphocytes, and block the proliferation of immunocompetent

cells. More specifically, they inhibit the proliferation of activated

lymphocytes by reducing the secretion of cytokines IL-2 without

affecting the expression of the interleukin-2 (IL-2) receptor, and by

reducing the production of interferon gamma (IFN- y) and tumor

necrosis factor alpha (TNF-α).

V.tricolor exerts potential anticancer activity by inducing

apoptosis, as shown by the action of different types of plant

extracts, studied on mouse neuroblastoma and human breast

cancer cells. It has the ability to inhibit angiogenesis.

ANTI-INFLAMMATORY PROPERTIES

In an acute inflammation model, the effect of wild pansy mother

tincture administration was evaluated. Although its effects are

moderate compared to a reference anti-inflammatory, wild pansy

made it possible to significantly limit the number of leukocytes, the

APJ 52

number of phagocytes and their activity, as well as the production

of nitric oxide compared to the control group.

In a solar erythema model, a gel based on Viola tricolor showed

an antinociceptive and anti-inflammatory effect on UV-B induced

burns, maintaining the temperature below 25°C.

In vivo, in a chronic asthma model, a hydroalcoholic extract of

Viola tricolor flowers showed anti-inflammatory effects, via

inhibition of type 2 (Th2) cytokine production; which seems to

validate its empirical use in traditional medicine.

ANTIMICROBIAL PROPERTIES

Preparations of Viola tricolor exert antimicrobial activity, the most

effective being aqueous and alcoholic extractions. These showed

an inhibitory effect, significant against Staphylococcus aureus,

Bacillus cereus, Staphylococcus epidermidis and Candida albicans,

and moderate against Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Enterococcus

faecalis, Escherichia coli and Klebsiella pneumoniae. The least

effective preparations are those with high molecular selectivity,

which suggests a synergistic action of the different components

present in the other extractions. Cyclotides are particularly

responsible for this effect.

PRECAUTIONARY MEASURES AND CONTRA-INDICATIONS

In the absence of sufficient data, the EMA, in 2010, does not

recommend the use of wild pansy in pregnant or breastfeeding

women, as well as in children under 12 years of age.

Due to the presence of coumarins and salicylates, it is advisable to

use wild pansy with caution in subjects on anticoagulants (clinical

monitoring and INR), as it could have additive effects. It is also

contraindicated on open wounds, large areas of damaged skin.

IN CONCLUSION

The wild pansy has been used in traditional medicine for centuries

with substantial evidence of its dermatological benefits with

strong evidence of its benefits in the maintenance of a healthy

skin, especially in the case of seborrheic skin diseases of the

scalp or other areas (regions) of the body. Wild pansy promotes

the disappearance of pimples, helps to improve the general

appearance of the skin and helps to maintain a healthy skin.

This amazing delicate flower has indeed an impressive list of

therapeutic constituents. Next time you see it on top of a desert,

don’t brush it off as just decoration, savour its every petal. And if you

discover it on the ingredient listing of a skincare product I hope this

article will allow you to celebrate it with greater appreciation. APJ

Medical bibliographic sources and clinical trials:

• Toiu A. et al., Pharmacognostic research on car Viola tricolor L.

(Violaceae), Rev Med Chir Soc Med Nat Iasi., 2009

• Vukics V. et al., Major flavonoid components of heartsease (Viola

tricolor L.) and their antioxidant activities, Anal Bioanal Chem., 2008

• Mantle D. et al., Comparison of relative antioxidant activities of

British medicinal plant species in vitro, J Ethnopharmacol., 2000

• Toiu A. et al., Evaluation of anti-inflammatory activity of alcoholic

extract from viola tricolor; Rev Med Chir Soc Med Nat Iasi., 2007

• Witkowska-Banaszczak car E. et al., Antimicrobial of Viola tricolor

herb, Fitoterapia, 2005

• Svangard E. et al., Cytotoxic cyclotides from Viola tricolor, J Nat

Prod., 2004

• Piana M. et al., Analysis of rutin in the extract and gel of Viola

tricolor, J Chromatogr Sci., 2013

• Koike A. et al., Edible flowers of Viola tricolor L. as a new functional

food ; antioxidant activity, individual car phenolics and effects of

gamma and electron-beam irradiation, Food Chem., 2015

• Hellinger R. et al., Immunosuppressive activity of an aqueous Viola

tricolor herbal extracts, J Ethnopharmacol., 2014

• Gründemann C. et al., Cyclotides Suppress Human T-Lymphocyte

Proliferation by an Interleukin 2-Dependent Mechanism, PLoS

One, 2013

• European Medicines Agency, Assessment report on Viola tricolor L.

and/or subspecies Viola arvensis Murray (Gaud) and Viola vulgaris

Koch (Oborny); herbacum flore, 2010

• Mousavi S.H. et al., Protective effect of Viola tricolor and

Viola odorata extracts on serum/glucose deprivation-induced

neurotoxicity ; role of reactive oxygen species, Avicenna car J

Phytomed., 2016

APJ 53

STAR PERFORMER

DermalogicaPro launches

New Retinol Accelerator

MORE FLAKING,

BETTER RESULTS

In this fast-paced, modern world, many

of our clients are looking for immediate

results and more advanced outcomes from

their professional services. Chemical peels

have been a strong and solid global trend

for many years, but with our clinic guests

having less free time, there is a strong cry

for accelerated results post-treatment.

Dermalogica PRO Retinol Accelerator

has been formulated to accelerate the

skin’s natural renewal process and boost

the results after professional exfoliating

treatments, providing a noticeable

difference. So, what is all the fuss

about retinol?

Our skin naturally produces a retinoid

compound known as Retinoic Acid,

which strongly influences epithelial

differentiation and proliferation. It also

contributes to a normalised rate of cell

turnover and desquamation, decreasing

the build-up of dead cells on the surface

of the stratum corneum which can cause

rough skin texture. Retinol and Retinoids

are the gold standard in skin treatments

and products, when it comes to targeting

lines, and wrinkles along with uneven skin

tone and texture.

Retinoids, are an umbrella term for the

entire family of Vitamin A derivatives,

helping to regulate cell turnover and

collagen production, which enables a

healthier looking skin with less noticeable

pigmentation concerns, such as sunspots

or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Retinol, a member of the retinoid family, is well-known for visibly reversing the signs of

skin ageing. This fast-acting oil soluble molecule easily penetrates the stratum corneum

and fully delivers the active ingredients to stimulate keratinocyte activity. Topically

applied Retinol needs to be converted by the skin into Retinoic Acid in a two-step

process, first, skin enzymes convert retinol to retinaldehyde and then from retinaldehyde

into Retinoic Acid. By accelerating the rate of cell turnover in the skin, new, fresh skin

cells can make their way to the skin’s surface faster than they would naturally. This helps

to reduce fine lines and wrinkles and deliver improved skin texture while evening out

the skin tone.

Clients looking for immediate advanced treatment outcomes, especially in conjunction

with resurfacing services, can achieve these results with an application of a Retinol

Accelerator. Dermalogica’s PRO Retinol Accelerator is a Professional strength

gel-serum that provides:

• Accelerated cellular turnover for faster results

• Maximized peel results

• A brighter and smoother skin

This industry first formula contains a powerful blend of actives including Retinol, Retinyl

Propionate, Niacinamide, Stevia Extract and Alcohol-short chain molecules that make the

intercellular lipids more fluid to enhance product penetration.

Dermalogica’s PRO Retinol Accelerator is going to take your in-clinic service offerings

and results to the next level, and as your clients begin to see advanced results in a faster

timeframe, they are guaranteed to rebook! APJ

Available to Dermalogica stockists on 9th October 2023.

To enquire about this product, visit

dermalogica.com.au/pro

To watch the video:

https://vimeo.com/853548394/95370c63c1?share=copy

APJ 54

NEW

RETINOL

ACCELERATOR

more flaking. better results

• Accelerates cellular

turnover

• Maximises and speeds

up results

before

3 days post-treatment

dermalogica.com.au/pro APJ 55

BUSINESS

ARE YOU ASKING

THE RIGHT ‘YES’

QUESTIONS

IN YOUR CONSULTATIONS?

Neil Osborne

Clinic growth expert, Neil Osborne, explains how getting three

successive ‘yes’ answers are crucial micro-commitments towards

the acceptance of your treatment recommendations.

It’s well known that human commitments are never rushed

- especially if there’s a lot at stake. And people are especially

cautious before investing time and money in anything. Until

we feel more in control of the situation and ready to trust, we’ll

move slowly toward a decision. Therefore, if your clients feel out

of control during their consultation, or they don’t yet trust you,

they won’t commit, or say ‘yes’. So, how do you overcome this

stalemate?

In his book, Humble Inquiry: The Gentle Art of Asking Instead of

Telling, author Edgar H. Schein characterises a humble inquiry as

“the fine art of drawing someone out, of asking questions.” Asking

small questions helps to overcome our inbuilt roadblock around

commitments, and it helps you master the gentle art of persuasive

client conversations, that are comprised of three things - asking,

listening and smiling.

TWO APPROACHES TO THE SAME END: ACCEPTANCE

While getting a ‘yes’ from your client may sound simple, it’s far

from easy. There are parallel approaches that solve the problem –

asking questions that invoke an easy ‘yes’ answer and get people

nodding.

Everyone’s accustomed to using head movements as a form

of communication. Body language tends to transcend cultural

barriers, so it’s often used as our universal language – through

nonverbal interpersonal psychosocial cues. Generally, a nod in

approval occurs when you hear something you agree with, or you

shake it in disapproval when you disagree or don’t like something.

Those actions are ingrained in our subconscious. Nodding means

yes, shaking means no.

However, despite those small nodding movements being barely

registered as a body signal, they endow a halo of positivity

towards your recommendations being accepted. And multiple

positive micro-commitments accumulate to form a direct path

towards positivity, affirmation and agreement. In a word: ‘yes’.

SMILING AND NODDING CREATES POSITIVITY

It’s widely known that “service with a smile” results in people

feeling good about their experience, the situation, and the people

involved. However, customer service research conducted in

2019 by Ka-shing Woo and Bobbie Chan 1 showed that a genuine

“Duchenne” smile (i.e. smiling with your eyes) combined with

repeated down-nods (i.e. “yes” nods) is a universal way to spread

contagious feelings of warmth and friendliness.

The research authors referred to this nodding and smiling

combination as “smile-nod coupling.” According to them, while

there was extensive research on the contagiousness of smiling,

nonverbal down-nods were an “under-researched social cue”,

especially within the area customer experience.

The research went on to explain that “In some parts of Asia, or

Chinese culture, in particular, it is not smiling but nodding that

matters most in interpersonal relationships. Taking into account

the undue focus of smiling as a dominant physiological marker

in promoting authenticity and immediacy in the West, and the

prevailing use of nodding in Chinese culture, we consider both

nonverbal cues important in this study.”

One of the secrets to creating a memorable experience is to make

your clinic ‘remarkably better than it has to be’ and a simple way to

start, is for your front of house team to gift your customers a smile.

A genuine smile non-verbally tells people you’re approachable and

it builds your ‘likeability’ quotient – with multiple studies showing

people are more willing to say ‘yes’ to requests and suggestions

made by people they like.

MICRO-COMMITMENTS TOWARDS ‘YES’

Generally, when a patient arrives at your clinic there’s a lot going

on in their head. Unfortunately, most of their head noise doesn’t

make them receptive to your treatment suggestions. The first

step to improving the situation is transforming their ‘mood’, or

in Neuro-linguistic Programming (NLP) language, adjusting their

‘frame’.

Robert Cialdini’s book, “Influence: Psychology of Persuasion” is

considered the bible of persuasion. In the book, Cialdini notes

six key principles of persuasion, one of which is “commitment

and consistency”, which states that we’re driven to remain

consistent in our attitudes, words, and actions. Therefore, by

making multiple small commitments (sometimes referred to as

micro-commitments), people are more likely to make a larger

commitment later – including agreeing to things they originally

may not have done.

Similarly, other research has shown that if people verbalise ‘yes’

three times in quick succession, it changes their mood to be

more open, positive and receptive. It’s even confirmed a 52%

improvement in people accepting recommendations, after having

made three ‘yes’ micro commitments.

In a clinic situation, the three ‘yes’ approach works best when it’s

exercised by the practitioner who’s conducting the consultation.

THREE QUICK ‘YES’ RESPONSES BEFORE YOUR

CONSULTATION

Your patient’s been greeted with a smile from your front of house

team, checked-in and guided to the waiting room. You arrive to

take them through to the consult/treatment room.

Your goal, as the practitioner, is to ask three simple questions

APJ 56

1 “Service with a smile” and emotional contagion: A replication and extension study”, Ka-shing Woo and Bobbie Chan, Annals of Tourism Research, Volume 80, January 2020, 102850

between reception and the consultation room, to secure yes,

yes, yes. The questions should be trivial (where the answers are

practically guaranteed to be ‘yes’). Each subsequent ‘yes’ makes

them more likely to positively consider and comply with your next,

bigger ask, during the consultation.

What three questions do you ask?

1. “Hi, [name], is it?” Yes

2. “You’re here for your [time]?” Yes

3. “Would you like to come through?” Yes

You’ve successfully just changed your client’s frame, set up a more

positive consultation, taken your first steps toward the probability

of your client and patients saying ‘yes’, and you becoming more

persuasive.

Some practitioners prefer to secure three ‘Yes’ answers within

the consult room. If that’s the case, ask:

Hi [name], nice to see you again

1. Can I please double check that you’re still at [address]

Is that correct? Yes

There’s an old Chinese proverb that says, “A man without a smiling

face must not open a shop.” And that honestly says it all in any

customer facing situation. Because saying ‘yes’, combined with

nodding and smiling, contributes to your client’s appreciating

higher satisfaction, increased loyalty and higher purchases… all of

which helps them enjoy an exceptional experience with you and

your team. APJ

Neil Osborne is a master trainer, growth coach and entrepreneur. He has

worked exclusively in the salon, clinic and aesthetic markets for more

than three decades, teaching businesses and brands how to profitably

grow and be commercially clever.

Created by Neil, the Spendsuasion® method blends ‘spending’ with

‘persuasion’. It’s specifically created for cosmetic physicians, practice owners,

nurses, dermal therapists and injectors – giving them the exact words and

when to say them, to create persuasive conversations with patients.

As a growth coach, he’s dramatically grown hundreds of service-based

brands and businesses, using industry-specific methods that grow their

revenue, develop their consultation and persuasion skills, and multiply

their turnover.

Contact him on +61 419 233 439 or at www.spendsuasion.com.au

2. Your email is still [name]@[name].com Is that correct? Yes

3. And your mobile ends in 227. Is that right? Yes

In doing this, you’ve immediately changed your client’s frame or

mood. Everyone has inbuilt patterns of acceptance and patterns

of rejection. The goal is to learn and understand those patterns of

acceptance and build them, along with empathetic responses, into

your consultation.

Try not to overthink the questions, because they’re not critical

– it’s the framing that’s crucial, to ensure you receive a ‘yes’

response – so the use of closed-ended questions (i.e., yes or no

answers) are a must. Once you’ve removed any hesitation or

discomfort in asking the questions, you’ll discover there are so

many small questions you can easily ask and get a ‘yes’ response.

Why not try:

1. “Is it still sunny outside?” (you need to know it’s sunny

outside for this to work) Yes

Or

2. “Is it still raining outside?” (if it’s raining) Yes

3. Is your water, OK? Yes

4. Your tea is with one sugar, is that right? Yes

APJ 57

COSMETIC MEDICINE

YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED

By Dr Giulia D’Anna

We are thrilled that our Editor Giulia D’Anna is a multiskilled

professional. She is a qualified dentist, dermal therapist, cosmetic

injector and a highly reputable trainer through her DERMAL

DISTICTIONS ACADEMY where she delivers cosmetic injectable

training to doctors and nurses who wish to train in these

procedures, or to perfect their techniques.

Recently, we received some questions from our members and

readers who would like to access Giulia’s expert knowledge.

Below we share the questions and the answers. If you have a

question you would like to ask Giulia, please send them either

to APAN info@apanetwork.com or directly to her at giulia@

dermaldistinction.com.au

Q1: Dr Giulia, can you please explain what is a Glass Facial? I

understand it utilises dermal fillers through a microinjection

process, so how does it compare with a standard dermal filler

procedure? Also is this treatment strictly classified as cosmetic

medicine, or can it be delivered through other non-invasive means?

GIULIA: The ‘Glass facial” is another name for skin booster

treatment. So, let’s look at what that actually is.

In the family of dermal fillers, there are various “thicknesses” or

G-primes. As a general rule, the thicker a filler, the sturdier it is

and the longer-lasting it is. High G-prime gives the dermal filler

a robust strength that can mimic bone. They get this property

through cross-linking. To explain cross-linking simply; imagine

two molecules holding hands. That is cross-linking. So high

G-prime fillers not only “hold hands” but might also be bound

together multiple times over to create a strong bond between the

molecules. This means that this type of filler should be placed on

or in very close association with the bone, an example of this is,

filler used for chin enhancement.

Now there also exists fillers with very low G-prime or are very

runny in consistency - almost like water. These types of fillers are

typically very thin and display almost no ability to add volume to

the face. These types of fillers are typically placed very superficial

in the skin to improve lustre and to enhance the skin health. What

makes these types of filler so special is that for every molecule

of Hyaluronic acid, they attract around 1000 molecules of water

which leads to rapid skin hydration and also skin tightness as a

result. Moreover, skin moisturising and the antioxidant potential

of HA promote skin cell regeneration and stimulate the production

of collagen - which are desirable outcomes of any skin procedure -

these are Skinboosters.

Skinboosters typically contain pure medical-grade Hyaluronic acid

and are classed as a Schedule 4 pharmaceutical or medication.

Although they are technically a dermal filler, skinboosters have

very little cross-linking, so they are free to move around in the skin,

imparting their water-loving properties throughout the skin as they

go. We all know that hydrated skin is usually healthy skin, so this

creates a beautiful appearance for our clients. They are injected just

under the epidermis with a needle or needling device. Their role

is to improve hydration of the skin, which therefore improves skin

health and vitality. The skin looks flawless, just like glass.

To perform a “Glass Facial” you should be a AHPRA registered

practitioner as the Skinbooster is a Schedule 4 pharmaceutical.

These procedures are typically only able to be performed by a

medical or dental practitioner, or a cosmetic nurse.

Q2: There are so many new brands of fillers that are entering the

market, how can I get trained in understanding how they differ in

their appropriate use? Do you conduct training on this subject?

GIULIA: All dermal fillers in Australia are Schedule 4 medications.

This means to use these pharmaceuticals you firstly need to be an

AHPRA registered practitioner.

When dermal fillers are listed by the Therapeutics Goods

Administration (TGA), they are assessed for safety, efficacy,

complications and so on. Then the filler is eventually given an

ARTG number.

I have been a cosmetic injector for over eight years and have seen the

market grow in Australia. At first there were limited brands of filler,

and then each brand makes developments and adds a greater number

of products to their range to fill-a-gap, actually quite literally.

From there, new filler brands come onto the Australian market,

and then within each brand, the range grows. Thank goodness

Australian regulation makes our pharmaceutical range limited, but

very safe. In Europe, there are literally hundreds of dermal filler

brands which is highly concerning.

APJ 58

So how do you approach the filler market and how do you know

which filler to use where?

My best advice is to learn about one brand of filler first, and to

use a brand that has multiple indications for their filler range.

They should have a filler for deep placement, a filler for mid-level

injection, superficial injection and so on. The brand you choose

should also have skinboosters and resilient Hyaluronic gels

that move with the patient, rather than being immobile balls of

enhancement. The reason for this is that you need to learn the art

of injecting first. You need to get your assessment, consultation

process and technique right first. To do this, you must have an

intimate knowledge of anatomy and how to determine where the

filler should be injected in the first place.

Once you master the art of assessment, you then need to

understand the rheology (the science that deals with the

deformation and flow of materials, both solid and liquids), or

properties of the filler you plan to use to make sure that it matches

the patient and the depth of injection you need to correct or

enhance the face. So, there is a learning curve with understanding

the diagnosis you make and matching the correct filler at the right

depth to achieve a predictable and beautiful result. This takes

time, a little like learning to drive.

First learn to drive in the same car on roads around your house.

Then with confidence you might use a different car, and drive in a

different state where the rules might be a bit different. Master the

assessment and technique first.

My advice is to understand one filler brand intimately, so that you

can predictably use filler. Then you can start branching out into

other fillers with similar properties so that you can compare what

works predictably.

I have been teaching cosmetic injectable treatments for over

eight years and truly love it. It has given me the opportunity to

meet so many people, and I am particularly passionate about

the new injector space. The newer injector is usually curious and

has a genuine thirst for scientific advice and technique. This is

my passion too. Although I am a KOL for Teoxane, a dermal filler

brand, I always come from a place of Anatomy, Technique and

Product as my point of evaluation and education. If you would

like to learn about cosmetic injectors, please join our academy. I

have so much to offer in this space. You can find me here: www.

dermaldistinction.com

Q3: I recently had a patient who was seeking fillers to minimise

the appearance of her nasolabial folds. However, I noticed that

she was a highly stressed individual, her skin was quite flushed,

and she was perspiring excessively, her consultation report

also confirmed that she was menopausal. She told me that her

gynaecologist had just placed her on HRT, so I suggested that

we wait a month for her hot flushes to settle down before going

ahead with her injectable treatments. She was disappointed

but I really felt uneasy in treating her in this state. Can you

please provide me with your thoughts on this and if you would

you have handled this situation differently?

GIULIA: Dear skin practitioner. Congratulations on your great

assessment of your client. I think that with all treatments our

assessment for the patient and what feels right is always the first

priority we should make. Injecting dermal filler is relatively straight

forward once we know the anatomy and techniques. What is

harder is dealing with complications, and you were right to hold

back. Let’s look at some complications that have been reported so

that we can assess when you should inject a dermal filler.

Derma filler is considered to be an implant. To inject the filler, we

should make sure that our patient is medically fit, free of infection

but also free of additional challenges to the immune system. It is

quite a common risk or complication to have inflammation around

the injection site, as the body begins to integrate the injected

filler into the tissues. It is thought that although hyaluronic acid is

natively present in the extracellular matrix, the chemical processes

that occur with the pharmaceutical gel to achieve the desirable

properties of the filler, namely longevity and cohesively, can

produce a heightening of the immune system in the first day or

two. Additionally, there has been a micro-trauma to the skin to

inject it in the first place. We do not want a skin that is erupting or

has an increased vascularity. Calm and healthy skin is best.

If you are reflecting back and wondering whether you could have

done anything, the only offerings I would make to a patient at

this point in their journey would be supportive treatments. You

could offer calming and soothing skin treatments like hydration

facials, or LED, or whatever you have in your toolkit to support

an inflamed skin. At a push, I would be happy to offer muscle

APJ 59

orthodontic extractions has changed. As it stands now, I probably

remove only two premolars, maybe in 1-2 patients per year. That

will have a profound change on the way adults age over time.

Putting all this aside, there are some key points that every injector

should look at to determine if the dentist should be involved

before you pick up a syringe.

Here are some recommendations:

Questions 1: Ask your patient when they last went to the dentist.

If it has been more than two years, I would encourage them

to visit for a dental health check above all else. If there is an

undiagnosed infection or just simply really bad oral hygiene, they

are at greater risk of a secondary infection once you inject dermal

filler into the skin. The appearance of an increased biofilm around

the filler is much higher in patient with a bacteraemia.

relaxant injections to a patient to help with modulating the

muscles for a result to support future dermal filler treatment. It

might be appropriate (or not - assessment of your patient is key

here) to deliver botulinum toxin injections to some of the upper

lip elevators to reduce the nasolabial fold pre- dermal filler. This

would assist your patient in the long-run, particularly in the highrisk

zone of the nasolabial fold.

In all skin therapies, injected or not, we want predicable results

and healing. Your patient that is undergoing initial HRT is not

yet in a place where a predictable result and healing would be

“predicable”. Once her skin is settled, and this can be quite quick

for patients once they get on a great HRT regime, treatment can

then go ahead. Overall, I think you were right to hold back a little

at this point.

Q4: It is interesting to see the collaboration of cosmetic dentistry

with cosmetic injectables. As I am not a dentist how can I gain the

appropriate knowledge on when to refer a patient to a dentist?

GIULIA: Some years ago, a brilliant plastic surgeon Dr Bryan

Mendelson made the connection between the changes in the

bone shape over time, and the changes that are reflected on the

surface of the face. I see dentistry as an extension of the bone,

as the teeth are functional and also support the soft tissues. It

is inevitable that if there are changes in the teeth, there will be

changes in the support to the face. A classic example of this is the

shift in the orthodontic approaches over the years.

When I first started practicing in the last 90’s and early 2000’s, it

was common that I was asked to remove premolar teeth to create

space to straighten the teeth. In fact, I removed at least four

wisdom teeth for a patient at any one time, and usually did that on

average, once a week. That means 52 of my young patients were

losing teeth every year. I am only one dentist, so imagine how

many people this happened to. What we found, is that the maxilla

or upper jaw usually developed a lack of projection of weakness

that pre-maturely aged them. Thank goodness the thinking around

Questions 2: Do you have all your own teeth? If the patient

answers no to this question, I would then ask if they have a

denture. If they answer yes to this question, they can be a very

diffcult patient to treat with dermal fillers. This is for a number of

reasons. The first is that all your anatomical landmarks are likely

to have changed. Where you think blood vessels, neurovascular

bundles and foramen in the bone might be, will have shifted with

the atrophy of the maxillary and mandibular bones. This makes

any procedure you do much higher risk.

The second reason that these patients are more difficult to treat, is

that they need many of their facial muscles to retain the dentures.

You would not want to knock the orbicularis oris with a lip-flip, as

retaining a denture may be near impossible in this type of patient.

And another possible complication is that a denture-wearer often

has large lip extensions on their denture to sit over the saddle of

the bone. If you obliterate the saddle with filler, for example in

the chin or the pre-jowl sulcus, the denture might not fit anymore,

sitting up out of the saddle area. In all these cases, it might be a

better approach to get the denture checked for support before

proceeding with muscle relaxants or filler, so that the denture can

optimise the support, and you don’t interrupt the patient’s dental

function, or end up with an avoidable complication.

Question 3: Where a patient grinds their teeth, or had those early

orthodontic extractions, we can expect that in many of these

patients they lose vertical dimension or height in their face. And

this height is usually in the mid-face and lower third. So, if you see

a patient this a particularly concave (mid to lower third), again

it may be worth asking the patient about their dental health.

Improving the vertical dimension through traditional dentistry

would give good results that are long-lasting. The dental team

will do this by making each tooth longer or back to the original

height so that the maxilla and mandible are held in a position that

restores the vertical dimension to the teeth, but also back to the

face overall.

I have enjoyed answering these questions, so please keep them

coming. You can ask further questions via APAN directly info@

apanetwork.com or I am happy for you to reach out to me directly

- giulia@dermaldistinction.com.au. I am happy to answer them in

the next APAN journals. APJ

APJ 60

APJ 61

ADVETORIAL

HOW TO QUENCH SYSTEMIC

INFLAMMATION FOR

BETTER SKIN

& HEALTH

An Interview with Nicky Horkings

According to several studies, one of the most important

considerations when determining our susceptibility to disease

is to measure our level of systemic inflammation. Recent studies

have also identified how high-quality fish oil plays a crucial role in

lowering inflammation and protecting the body.

In this article, well-known Wellness Consultant and Advocate

Nicky Horkings discusses the importance of the six (6) biomarkers

in assessing whether your Omega-6 to your Omega-3 ratio is in

correct balance, and how you can access accurate assessment in

determining your levels of inflammation, as well as determine if

the fish oil that you may be currently consuming is providing you

with the appropriate protection.

APJ Q1: Nicky, thank you for supporting the APAN Conference as

an exhibitor and for sponsoring the event by providing delegates

with a free dry blood test to determine their Omega-6 to their

Omega-3 ratio. What is the objective of this test?

Nicky: The objective of this test is to clearly show each person

their exact Omega-6 to their Omega-3 ratio. This test has been

scientifically proven to provide accurate evidence on the state

of inflammation in a person’s body. Inflammation is something

that we need to carefully monitor, as high levels not only

contribute to many diseases including premature ageing, but it

also compromises the longevity of our skin treatment results.

When high inflammation is left untreated it has the potential to

trigger disease. While we have access to important information on

investing in a healthy diet, much of the food we eat has some level

of deficiency or pollution, pesticides in our fruit and vegetables,

grain-fed meat, farmed fish, etc. There are many underlying factors

that rob us of important nutrients in our diet.

APJ Q2: From the numerous tests that you have conducted, what

evidence-based information are you able to determine?

Nicky: Of all the testing that I have conducted over the past four

years I have only come across four (4) clients who have registered

in the correct balance of Omega-6 to Omega-3 Ratio. Most start

in the 19:1 other’s as high as 29:1 and some even higher. We are

also finding that the number of people who wish to be tested has

substantially increased, as they want to know why they are not

feeling that well, with many reporting that they are increasingly

feeling very tired. Much of this is also due to the high level of

stress that is unavoidable in today’s world. What is alarming is

that these individuals are not only adults, we are seeing many

teenagers, and young adults in their early 20’s also showing very

high levels of inflammation. We are a nation hooked on fast food

and this alone is so detrimental to our health and the health of

the younger generation. While we promise that by taking the

BalanceOil+ they will see a substantial improvement in their

Omega-6 to Omega-3 ratio within 120 days, many of them are

keen to check their progress as early as 60 days.

APJ Q3: We understand that the dry blood tests measure the

essential fatty acid ratios, what are the six (6) biomarkers that

you review?

Nicky: These tests are very detailed. This is what they investigate:

1. Your Protection: We examine the fatty acid profile for its ability

to protect against the development of potential disease and this

is primarily dependent on how much EPA and DHA (Omega-3)

is in your blood. This needs to be 90% to 100% to provide the

appropriate protection for the body.

2. Omega-3, EPA/DHA Levels. This is the exact % of EPA and

DHA in the blood these ideally need to be 8% or higher.

Unfortunately, many are less than 1% and even in the minus

category.

3. Omega-6:3 Balance: This will show you whether the client’s

body is in balance. Determining that the ratio is in balance is an

important biomarker for optimising health. The goal is to ensure

an Omega 3:1 ratio or lower.

4. Arachidonic acid (AA) Formulation Efficiency: This biomarker

explains how well your body converts Omega-6 linoleic acid to

arachidonic acid, this needs to be greater than 30%.

5. Cell Membrane fluidity: This is also a critical issue. Cell

Membrane Fluid Index is measured as the ratio between

saturated fatty acids and Omega-3 essential fatty acids (EPA &

DHA) and how permeable your cells are. In other words, how

easy it is for your cells to take in nutrients and rid itself of toxins.

If the membrane around our cells is not flexible, it wouldn’t

matter how much you take in the form of nutrition, as very little

of the nutrients are actually getting into the cells and very little

in toxins are being rid of. The goal is to be less than a ratio of 4:1.

6. Mental Strength Index: This biomarker assesses the ratio

between Omega-6 (AA) and the Omega-3 essential fatty

acids. This is important as it determines how well your cells

communicate, especially in your brain. When your cells are

more permeable, in other words cells with more elasticity, they

can then support mood, memory, and concentration. Your goal is

a ratio below 1:1.

APJ 62

APJ Q4: What are the advantages of combining fish oil with

polyphenol-rich olive oil?

Nicky: In 2012 Zinzino made a ground-breaking discovery that

has placed BalanceOil+ in a league of its own. They discovered

that polyphenols from pre-harvest olives are the plant-based

equivalent to the antioxidants naturally found in fish. This resulted

in a synergistic formula where they combined fish oil with extra

virgin olive oil to safeguard the omega nutrients in the body. A

finding that has rocked the concept of omega supplementation on

its foundation.

It is now understood that the natural polyphenols present in

pre-harvest olives play an essential role in protecting Omega-3

lipids from oxidation and autoxidation, ensuring that no proinflammatory

products are formed after intake, as this often

happens with consumption of refined Omega-3 concentrates.

This synergy has the potential to improve health worldwide

considering that 95% of the population is unbalanced. In essence

the polyphenol-rich olive oil not only protects the integrity of the

fish oil from rancidity, but it also amplifies the anti-inflammatory

activity in the body. These results are clinically proven, and the

results of the dry blood tests are evidence-based, determined

by VITAS (http://Vitas.no), an independent laboratory based in

Norway that provides a Certificate of Analysis.

It is amazing, but we have tested individuals who are taking

expensive professional brand fish oil for over 12 months and when

we tested them, their ratio was still highly unbalanced. Once the

BalanceOil+ was introduced into their diet, they were able to

achieve a 3:1 ratio within just 120 days and some in less time.

APJ Q5: We understand that dry blood testing examines the

essential fatty acid ratio in the body, what is the appropriate

Omega-6 to Omega-3 ratio for optimal health and how can a

balanced ratio support your better health?

Nicky: The ideal ratio is 3:1 or under. The importance of achieving

this ratio is that this means that your inflammation has reached

manageable levels and your body is now in balance. While often

people don’t radically change their eating habits and often

live with high levels of stress, we find that once their Omega

3:1 ratio is achieved they report that they sleep better, they

experience better memory and mood, and any aches and pains

are substantially improved, and they will then continue to take the

BalanceOil+ as a maintenance program. APJ

To obtain a Zinzino Wellness Professional account for your clinic

and to access Wellness Professional incredible pricing program

please contact Nicky Horkings

+61 (0)407 622999 | NHorkings@gmail.com | zinzinotest.com

APJ 63

REGULATIONS

HOW TO ENSURE YOU ARE

REGULATORY

COMPLIANT

Tina Viney

Almost on a daily basis APAN receives correspondence from

the office of the Fair Work Ombudsman with notifications of

businesses that have been fined for non-compliance to regulatory

requirements that relate to payments to their staff or contractors.

When errors are identified, businesses are not only required to

backpay (often large sums of money), but are also subjected to

extensive fines.

As an industry body, this is very disturbing to us, as our role is to

support businesses to prosper and to protect them from such

misadventure. While Fair Work considers it an achievement when

they identify errors and impose fines, our position is different - we

feel the pain and distress imposed on business owners.

WHY ARE BUSINESSES FAILING TO COMPLY WITH

INDUSTRIAL LAW?

Speaking specifically about our industry, we are acutely aware

that over 90% of business owners fall within the category of small

business. This means that the average business owner wears many

hats, and often operates across many areas, from practitioner, HR

staff trainer, marketing manager, to accounts management.

While businesses are braving to overcome the economic impact

of the past few years and seeking the best possible way to move

forward, the issue of staffing has been reported as the most

disruptive hindrance that many are facing. Often when staff leave,

they choose not to replace them, while others who are seeking to

replace appropriately competent staff, are struggling to find them.

This is imposing pressure on many business owners as they find

themselves juggling many roles within their business operations.

There is a level of overwhelm and this can contribute to errors.

From our experience, most businesses within our industry, do

want to do the right thing and for this reason we want to fiercely

support you.

A CLOSER LOOK AT REGULATORY COMPLIANCE

Each industry, and in particular the personal services industry,

is required to adhere to certain laws and regulations as part of

their operations. Regulatory compliance simply put, is when a

business follows state or federal laws relevant to their operations.

While some are classified as guidelines, others are entrenched in

legislative law and are mandatory. What and how you pay your

staff or contractors is one of those areas.

It is important to note here that if your client sues you for a

treatment that did not meet with their expectations, or you have

injured them with your treatment, providing you have insurance

for this, you will most likely be covered. However, if you have not

complied with a regulatory law and found liable, you are on your

own, there is no insurance cover for this.

HOW CAN WE HELP?

As your industry body, we have an ‘open door policy’ to all our

members to reach out to us for guidance. Membership includes

an initial consultation where you can speak to an expert and

review any aspect of your business operations, both business, HR

as well as regulatory. While this is a formal 60-minute scheduled

appointment (via Zoom if you prefer), you can contact us at any

time you wish and speak to someone with any concern as they arise.

We are happy to provide you with 10 to 15-minute consultations

on as needed-basis; there are no limits as to how often you can

contact us.

LEGAL SERVICES

APAN is supported by Pointon Partner Lawyers who have a staff of

over 40 legal experts and can move swiftly to support us with any

queries we may have in answering your concerns. We can access

these at no cost to you, providing the question is not complicated.

Alternatively, if you wish to access legal services directly with our

lawyers you can engage them at a discounted rate.

DO YOU HAVE THESE STANDARDS IN PLACE?

All APAN members have access to approximately 50 resource

documents (at a discounted price). These documents include

Health Regulations, Inform Consent forms for various procedures,

APJ 64

It is important to note here that if your client sues you for

a treatment that did not meet with their expectations,

or you have injured them with your treatment, providing

you have insurance for this, you will most likely be

covered. But if you have not complied with a regulatory

law, there is no cover for this.

a complete Cosmetic Injectable Kit, Consultation Forms, AHPRA

regulations, a variety of Contractual Agreement Templates, as

well comprehensive Workplace Agreements, and HR Policies and

Procedures. We also have legally compliant Cancellation Policies,

Refund Policies, Privacy Policies, Photography Client Consent

forms, and much more. We highly recommend that business owners

book an appointment to review their regulatory compliance status.

HOW DOES APAN HELP MEMBERS?

Additionally, APAN drafts Best Practice Standards, these are

important when risks are possible, yet there are no regulations in

place. For example, with IPL and Laser services, Plasma treatment,

Radiofrequency and other technologies. As a professional member

of APAN part of your competitive advantage is that you can

promote to your clients that you adhere to the highest standards of

Best Practice as set out by an independent industry body as well as

are fully compliant with regulatory requirements.

We live in a fast-paced competitive world and as a business owner,

you carry the responsibility to meet with client expectations,

financial obligations as well as regulatory compliance. These

include Occupational Health and Safety, Health Regulations, your

local Council Licences for the various procedure you perform, as

well as staff payment obligations, insurance protection and much

more. While you may have established these some time ago, make

sure you are up to date.

APAN has extensive connections with government bodies, and we

are experienced in this area. If you are not a member, please join us.

We offer you personalised comprehensive services and numerous

other member discounts and benefits.

Regulatory compliance is a big deal! Make it your point of

difference, by eliminating any guesswork. APJ

We are the only industry body to provide you with a printed

version of APJ Journal. You can also access support from APAN

9am to 5pm Monday to Friday. Please take advantage of these

services and have peace of mind.

Ph: 07 55930360 | info@apanetwork.com | www.apanetwork.com

APJ 65

SCIENCE

Inflammation and Skin Health:

UNDERSTANDING

IMPACT, REGULATION

& TREATMENT

PART 1

Gay Wardle

In recent times, inflammation and skin health has gain new

attention as the incidences of systemic inflammation have

substantially increase within the general community with

consequences to both skin and overall health.

Because of its important this topic will be comprehensively

covered at the upcoming APAN Aesthetics Conference, as well

as ways proven ways of minimising its impact.

This article by Gay Wardle comes as a two-part series and provides

some in-depth scientific evidence on the role of inflammation in

skin and overall health and why it is important to practitioners

who work on skin, as well cosmetic medical practitioners who

perform injectable procedures.

The immune system’s complex biological process of inflammation

is critical in guarding the body from harm. This response is an

immediate necessity to alleviate cellular injury by eliminating the

culprit, removing damaged tissues, and initiating the regeneration

of tissues. This function may lead to unfavourable health effects

when left unregulated or prolonged.

There are two primary forms of inflammation: acute and chronic.

Acute inflammation is a rapid physiological response to injury

or infection that is short-lived. The five classic signs of acute

inflammation are:

• rubor (redness)

• calor (heat)

• tumor (swelling)

• dolor (pain)

• functio laesa (loss of function).

The gathering of immune cells, inflammatory substances, and

amplified blood flow chiefly cause these symptoms.

With the onset of damaged cell activity, a chemical release begins

the acute inflammation response. Various mediators, such as

prostaglandins, histamine, and bradykinin, are the root cause.

Consequently, these mediators’ effects lead to the dilation of the

affected area’s blood vessels, resulting in an upsurge in blood flow,

visible through increased superficial warmth and redness. Also,

these same mediators raise the permeability of blood vessels and

allowed a way to transport leukocytes and plasma proteins to the

injury site, eliciting swelling and painful sensations.

THE IMMUNE RESPOSE TO TRAUMATISE TISSUE

At the site of inflammation, the first line of defence is taken up

by the numerous white blood cells known as neutrophils. These

cells have the specialised ability to engage in phagocytosis -

internalising and annihilating hazardous pathogens or leftover

cellular remains. In turn, macrophages, a distinct type of white

blood cell, appear at the location to promote the removal of

additional debris and help end the acute inflammation.

CHRONIC INFLAMMATION

Rather than being a short-lived response, chronic inflammation is

a prolonged condition lasting from months to years. The cause of

this type of inflammation often stems from incomplete removal

of the root cause, an immune response that is not up to par, or

consistent exposure to an agent that triggers inflammation, such

as pathogens, foreign substances, or toxic elements.

The chronic inflammatory response often harms the body’s tissues

due to the many macrophages and lymphocytes present. Unlike

the acute response, this can disrupt standard tissue architecture.

In addition, reactive oxygen species and enzymes, which can

destroy invaders but harm healthy tissues, are also released during

the chronic inflammatory process.

Linked to persistent inflammation are a variety of illnesses which

include inflammatory bowel disease, rheumatoid arthritis, and

asthma, along with numerous neurodegenerative conditions,

Alzheimer’s disease being one of them. Also, research has drawn a

connection between continuous inflammation and cardiovascular

disease, diabetes, and cancer. The many pro-inflammatory

mediators produced in copious amounts lead to a continuous cycle

of harm and healing of the tissues, which can eventually result in

organ failure.

THE IMPACT OF INFLAMMATION ON THE BODY

The body’s defence mechanism, inflammation, can be harmful

when it is uncontrolled despite its critical role. Adverse outcomes

are possible when inflammation goes awry, even though it is

designed to safeguard the body. These outcomes span from locationspecific

tissue damage to system-wide disorders and illnesses.

Augmented blood flow resulting in warmth and redness in

the affected area is triggered by inflammatory mediators like

cytokines, prostaglandins, and histamine, which are released

at a molecular level by damaged cells. This surge in vascular

permeability allows immune cells to flood the site of injury,

causing pain and swelling. The objective of acute inflammation, a

fundamental aspect of innate immunity, is to limit the growth of

infectious agents, remove damaged tissue, and commence tissue

APJ 66

reconstruction. Once the cause of acute inflammation is removed,

it commonly subsides.

HOW DOES CHRONIC INFLAMMATION OCCUR?

Chronic inflammation may occur when an injury persists, or the

body’s response becomes unstable. During this phase, cells that

cause inflammation (macrophages, lymphocytes, and plasma

cells) gradually enter the affected area over an extended period.

As a result, the tissue may experience both damage and healing

simultaneously. This can disrupt the tissue’s structure and

function, leading to chronic pain, impaired function, and,

in severe instances, organ failure.

The ‘inflammaging’ phenomenon highlights how inflammation

can influence ageing in a noteworthy manner. Research shows

how sustained, moderate inflammation may trigger age-related

diseases, such as heart complications, arthritis, diabetes, and

specific types of cancer.

Comprehension and competent regulation of inflammation are

essential due to their vast consequences on various organ systems

and biological operations in the body. While it is necessary to

safeguard and repair the body, unregulated inflammation can

produce various medical complications. Therefore, understanding

its effects is vital.

THE IMPACT ON SKIN HEALTH

Inflammation is a significant concern when it comes to

maintaining healthy skin. To deal with the different external

and internal factors that increase inflammation, it is essential

to understand what causes it. The work of the immune system

can either be valuable or harmful to the skin, as it must fight off

harmful pathogens while still being mindful of the skin’s health.

From eczema to psoriasis, several skin conditions stem from

inflammation, making it all the more crucial to keep it in check.

The initial defence of the body against environmental hazards

is the skin, making it prone to exhibiting signs of inflammation

as the first location, which is crucial in maintaining homeostasis

and contributing to pathologies. The skin reacts to different

stimuli when experiencing acute inflammation, such as allergens,

physical injuries, or pathogens, causing blood vessels to dilate

in the affected area, which calls immune cells to the injury site.

These processes trigger characteristic signs of inflammation,

such as pain, redness, swelling, heat, and sometimes a loss of

function, reflecting the changes in cells and blood vessels during

inflammation. These changes work to neutralise the injury and

promote tissue repair.

Chemical mediators discharged from stressed or injured cells mark

the onset of acute inflammation at a microscopic level. Histamine,

cytokines, and prostaglandins are among these mediators that

APJ 67

facilitate increased vascular permeability and blood flow, resulting

in immune cell migration to the inflamed area. These immune cells,

such as neutrophils and macrophages, contribute to removing

damaged tissue and the causes of inflammation

through phagocytosis.

Immune cells release various substances to assist in tissue repair

and wound healing. Prolonged or constant immune cell infiltration

can cause dysregulated or continuous inflammation in the skin.

Inflammation that persists and has penetrated excessively can

damage skin tissue and disrupt the skin’s protective barrier

function. Skin rashes, often itchy and chronic, such as those

in psoriasis, eczema, and rosacea, are primarily caused by

continuous inflammation. Psoriasis, an autoimmune disease, has

chronic inflammation as a critical component, causing skin cells

to overgrow and create red, scaly plaques. Atopic dermatitis, a

type of eczema, is also the result of persistent inflammation and

harm to the skin barrier that leads to itchy, dry skin that is easily

irritated. Conversely, rosacea causes constant facial inflammation,

leading to redness, swelling, and small, pus-filled bumps.

Inflammation cells frequently cause changes in the foundational

protein of skin, collagen, leading to alterations in the dermal

extracellular matrix that result in persistent inflammation. Such

deterioration is typically caused by matrix metalloproteinases

(MMPs) produced by inflammation cells, and its effects on the skin

include premature aging and thinning. The term inflammaging is

often used to describe this condition.

At sites of prior inflammation, such as insect bites or acne lesions,

darkened areas of skin may appear, a common occurrence seen

particularly in individuals with darker skin. This post-inflammatory

hyperpigmentation (PIH) is caused by the heightened production

and accumulation of melanin, which is triggered as part of the

inflammatory response.

As inflammation has a profound impact on skin health, it is

essential to maintain a healthy balance in the immune system.

Therefore, researchers continue investigating the complicated link

between inflammation and skin wellness. We are learning how

to better manage skin inflammation issues with more advanced

approaches through this.

THE CONNECTION BETWEEN INFLAMMATION AND

COLLAGEN PRODUCTION

Inflammation, the body’s response to injury or infection,

signals the cells responsible for creating collagen to enter the

inflammation site. Collagen is a protein that helps to give structure

and strength to our skin and other connective tissues.

When the cells arrive at the site of inflammation, they begin

to produce collagen to repair the damage that has been done.

However, when inflammation becomes chronic, it can inhibit

collagen production instead of stimulating it. This can lead to a

breakdown in the skin’s structure and elasticity, contributing to

wrinkles and other signs of ageing.

The interdependence of collagen synthesis and inflammation holds

great importance in dermatology. These processes are essential

for maintaining the skin’s structure and aiding in regeneration

and anti-ageing properties. In addition, the extracellular matrix’s

collagen is key in providing the skin with tensile strength and

flexibility. Meanwhile, inflammation is a multifaceted biological

reaction involving signalling molecules and immune cells to

respond to tissue injury.

The healing of wounds in acute inflammation or injury cases relies

heavily on the deposition and remodelling of collagen, which is

carried out by fibroblasts. Platelets gather at the site where the

injury occurred and release growth factors like PDGF and TGF-β

to signal the fibroblasts, leading to the synthesis and multiplication

of collagen vital for the wound’s closure and repair. However, this

process is tightly regulated as cells that produce inflammation,

like macrophages and neutrophils, are also located at the wound

site. These inflammatory cells generate enzymes such as MMPs

that break down harmed tissue and extracellular matrix proteins

that include collagen. During the wound healing process, enzyme

production drops while the production of tissue inhibitors of

metalloproteinases (TIMPs) rises, allowing the new collagen

to mature and accumulate. In the case of acute inflammation,

collagen production stimulates, enabling wound healing and

tissue repair.

Inconsistencies in collagen production can arise due to

prolonged inflammation.

The outcome of such inconsistency can either be an excess of

accumulated collagen or a depletion. Consistent inflammation, as

Inflammation, the body’s

response to injury or

infection, signals the cells

responsible for creating

collagen to enter the

inflammation site. Collagen

is a protein that helps to

give structure and strength

to our skin and other

connective tissues.

observed in conditions like psoriasis and eczema, leads to more

production of MMPs that originates from inflammatory cells. This

excess leads to intensified collagen breakdown, which, in turn,

reduces skin thickness. In conclusion, such disparate collagen

activities can lead to ‘inflammaging,’ which is premature

skin ageing.

An atypical collagen accumulation can occur in chronic

inflammation, such as in hypertrophic scarring and systemic

sclerosis, where an overproduction of collagen due to fibrosis

causes it. Fibrosis is the process in which connective tissue

becomes thick and scarred, and in these situations, excessive

TGF-β contributes to increased collagen synthesis and fibroblast

proliferation. Simultaneously, MMP production is reduced,

further exacerbating collagen accumulation.

Therapeutic approaches toward skin disorders and ageing can

be better understood by exploring the link between collagen

synthesis and inflammation. Anti-inflammatory treatments can

be used effectively to rectify the imbalance between collagen

synthesis and breakdown. Moreover, methods that enhance

collagen production directly can be used. Fractional laser

treatment is a prime example of how regulated inflammatory

responses can invigorate and restructure the skin’s

collagen network. APJ

APJ 68

Are you an ARAP

Registered Aesthetics Practitioner?

If you hold formal qualifications

for the procedures you perform,

APAN invites you to submit

them for assessment.

If you meet the required merit

criteria, you can apply for

inclusion in the APAN National

Registration Program.

To help consumers identify practitioners

with the highest credentials the Aesthetics

Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN) has

established the National Registration Program,

which has been also trademarked – ARAP.

ARAP Practitioners hold the highest

government-approved qualification for the

modality they practice, and their qualifications

have been reviewed and verified by an

independent industry standards body.

To maintain their registration ARAP

practitioners are required to provide

evidence of 15 CPD Points of Professional

Development every 12 months.

APAN REGISTERED AESTHETICS PRACTITIONER - ARAP

THE MARK OF INTEGRITY AND CREDIBILITY

For further details and to apply visit: https://app.apanetwork.com/arap

AESTHETICS INDUSTRY BULLETIN

NEW INNOVATION IN

PACKAGING DESIGN AND

MATERIALS

As the world’s innovative designs

are strongly influenced by an evergrowing

awareness of sustainability

and eco-friendly solutions, this is now

also impacting design and materials in

cosmetic packaging.

This year’s Cosmopack Awards featured

new innovations with a strong focus

on airless pumps, with one industry

manufacturer developing a new

innovation offering consumers a 100%

recyclable packaging option that

maintains effective product performance

and user experience.

Another manufacturer, NF Beauty

Group created an attractive unique

slimline packaging design maximizing

in-store product shelf space as well a

more efficient home product storage for

consumers with limited bathroom space

for their cosmetics.

The awards judging criteria reviewed

design and functionality innovation,

marketability, sustainability, and

execution of end products.

COLLABORATIVE APPROACH

On the other hand, another manufacturer,

BeautySourcing, has collaborated with

LISSON to introduce their eco-friendly

cosmetic kraft paper tube packaging with

a flip-top cap. This innovative packaging

solution combines sustainability and

functionality, utilising environmentally

friendly kraft paper materials. The

flip-top cap ensures convenience and

ease of use while maintaining the

integrity of the product. LISSON’s ecofriendly

tube packaging reflects their

commitment to reducing plastic waste

and providing customers with sustainable

alternatives. With a focus on eco-design,

this packaging solution aligns with the

growing demand for environmentally

conscious beauty products.

COST OF LIVING DRIVES DEMAND

FOR SMALLER PACKAGE SIZES

The rise in inflation rates is also impacting

the ability of many consumers to spend,

boosting sales of smaller pack types in

countries with particularly large numbers

of low-income consumers, as their

budgetary constraints preclude them

buying the larger sizes that offer a better

overall price per ml/g, prompting them to

opt for small sachets of essential beauty

and personal care products.

The trend towards smaller pack sizes is

also driven by the fact that they enable

customers to try out a variety of products

without committing to larger and pricier

containers, allowing them to test the

product and make an informed decision

about purchasing a larger size in

the future.

Related opportunities are increasingly

evident; in China, for example, with the

trend for mini fragrance bottles (5/10ml),

as an affordable impulse buy for use on a

night out. While unit cost per transaction

is small, increased consumption this way

is driving manufacturers paying attention

to this shift in consumer usage patterns.

In addition, smaller pack sizes are ideal

for on-the-go use, fitting easily into

handbags, gym bags or toiletry kits, as

well as being travel-friendly, as pack

sizes of 100ml and below adhere to the

maximum liquid limits allowed in hand

luggage when travelling by plane.

SQUEEZABLE PLASTIC TUBES ARE

LEADING GROWTH IN BEAUTY

PACKAGING WITH GLOBAL

SALES UP 3%

Squeezable plastic tubes are also

providing effective protection of

their content, as well as offering costeffectiveness

and practical advantages,

while their lightweight and compact

nature makes them highly convenient for

travel and on-the-go usage. However,

one of their most popular features is

that they enable effortless dispensing

and controlled application of beauty

and personal care products, helping to

minimise wastage.

Ref: Europmonitor International

APJ

PAID FAMILY AND

DOMESTIC VIOLENCE

LEAVE FOR SMALL

BUSINESS

On the 1st August, 2023 the Office of Fair

Work Ombudsman released an update on

paid family and domestic violence leave

for small business.

Employees of small business employers

can now access 10 days of paid family and

domestic violence leave, in a 12-month

period. These provisions are as a

result of a report increase in domestic

violence for women, which, according

to the Australian Institute of Health and

Welfare, increased by 43% in 2021.

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT

THE LEAVE

10 days of paid family and domestic

violence leave is now available to

employees of small business employers.

APJ 70

This section presents the latest news, training dates and other

Aesthetic Industry information

• Full-time, part-time and casual

employees can take 10 days of paid

family and domestic violence leave

in a 12-month period (it isn’t

pro-rated for part-time or

casual employees).

• All 10 days are available upfront -

an employee doesn’t accrue it.

• The leave doesn’t accumulate from

year to year if it’s not used.

• It’s a separate paid leave

entitlement, like paid annual leave

or paid sick and carer’s leave.

• Employers must not include certain

information on an employee’s pay

slip about taking paid family and

domestic violence leave.

• This leave entitlement replaces

the previous 5 days of unpaid

family and domestic violence leave

under the National Employment

Standards (NES).

ACCESS UPDATED INFORMATION

AND RESOURCES

Fair Work Ombudsman has also updated

their website adding key resources to

support small business employers

and employees understand the

new entitlement.

These include:

• Updates on family and domestic

violence leave section.

• The Small business employer guide

to family and domestic violence

to help employers manage family

and domestic violence in

the workplace.

• New Family and domestic violence

leave – case studies.

• Difficult conversations in the

workplace online courses, with

guidance for discussing these

sensitive issues in the workplace.

• Professionally translated

information in the Language

help section.

ADDITIONAL NEW DEDICATED

WEBSITE FOR SMALL BUSINESS

Additionally, the Department of

Employment and Workplace Relations

engaged Transitioning Well to develop

the website 10dayspaidfdvleave.com.au

in consultation with small business and

family and domestic violence

sector representatives.

This website is a one-stop-shop for small

businesses to help them understand

their obligations in relation to the new

leave entitlement.

SUPPORT SERVICE

1800RESPECT is the national domestic,

family and sexual violence counselling,

information and support service. If you or

someone you know is experiencing, or at

risk of experiencing, domestic, family or

sexual violence, call 1800 737 732 or

visit 1800RESPECT.org.au APJ

APJ 71

AESTHETICS INDUSTRY BULLETIN

STRATEGIES FOR

RETAINING CLIENTS

DURING DIFFICULT TIMES

With the ever-growing financial

restraints many businesses are reporting

experiencing a decrease in appointments

with an increased number of clients

opting to cancel their much-loved regular

treatment and salon subscriptions, so

what are recommended strategies that

can help minimise this risk? Here are

a few recommendations:

IT’S ALL ABOUT PERCEIVED VALUE

It is important to note that people will

prioritise to remain faithful to something

when they are convinced that the benefits

are too important. So, let’s explore how

your facial treatment can not just improve

their skin, but also lower their stress

levels - an all-important consideration to

productivity as well as disease prevention.

A quick search in PubMed will reveal

a growing body of scientific evidence

connecting an individual’s skin health

with their mental health, including both

emotional wellbeing and stress levels.

A recent scientific study examining the

relationship between psychological

and physiological phenomena called

psychophysiology, which, as you can

imagine, is becoming an increasingly

popular and relevant topic especially in

recent times. The study also identified

that massage could provide relief from

anxiety, depression, and pain. While a

daily routine of self-care can bring about a

calming catalyst that we need, the power

of the human touch, such as a facial

or scalp massage can have a profound

effect on lowering stress hormones, such

as cortisol, while increasing dopamine

and endorphins (our happy hormones).

Furthermore, in today’s world, stress is

reported to be cumulative, leading to

higher levels of inflammation in the body

that also handicaps our immune system.

When communicating the benefits of

your treatments to your clients, do not

neglect to also point out the stresslowering

and hormonal balancing impact

of a well executive facial massage and

skin treatment. It’s not just about vanity,

it is also about survival.

BRING ON THE FAST FACIAL

Both in Europe and in the US, there is

now a growing trend towards the fast

facial that is more affordable. These are

usually completed within 20-30 minutes

and offer an added dimension of stressmanagement

benefit.

While some choose to design these as a

mini facial that includes cleanse, exfoliate

and mask, or a lovely 20-minute LED

treatment, others are choosing to offer a

totally different sensorial experience that

includes a facial and lymphatic drainage

massage, inhalation of beautifully and

uplifting aromatic essential oils, full scalp

massage, soothing music delivered with

a healing Solfeggio frequency of 528Hz

to relax and restore deep healing to the

mind and body. Within just a 30-minute

timeframe this treatment can significantly

lower stress levels, lowering heart rate

and contributing to soothing the mind

and uplifting the mood. Finish off with

an aromatic herb tea, or a coconut

electrolyte-rich water and you will

transport your client to a calmer place

and an incredible level of relaxation. The

cost factor to such a treatment is minimal,

however, the impact of the human touch

will deliver nurture at a heightened level.

Furthermore, it will not be replacing your

skin therapy services, but rather offer a

new, delightful experience with added

wellness benefits.

APJ 72

This section presents the latest news, training dates and other

Aesthetic Industry information

BENEFITS AT A GLANCE

Here are some reasons why the fast facial

could help to rescue your business:

• Less time, less cost: This means

that you can potentially fit in more

appointments that are affordable,

yet highly beneficial.

• A new experience: Simply put, you

are introducing a new dimension to

your services that provides a strong

focus on lowering stress levels,

supporting hormonal balancing and

helping to elevate mood without

breaking the budget.

• Membership opportunity. If you

don’t already have a membership

program, the fast facial is a perfect

opportunity to start them on a

weekly program.

• Trending: Be innovative and make

this your point of difference from

other competitors. Furthermore,

the strong personal touch will

create a lasting effect that your

clients will cherish.

ESTABLISHING THE NEW SERVICES

As this may be a new strategy here are a

few tips to ensure its success:

1. Sell the concept to your staff and

train them both how to promote

this service with passion and

deliver it with excellence.

2. Create a simplified menu for

Personal care on a Budget.

3. Use creative terms to describe

the new services: “I can’t believe

this is not a facial”, “Heavenly Cloud”,

“Hydration booster”, “Stress buster”.

Involve your staff in coming up with

catchy names.

4. Provide the first one as an

introductory gift to your special

client who are financially

struggling.

5. Launch and celebrate the

introduction of this

menu segment.

This is the season for being innovative.

Remaining consistent to your old ways

may need to be revised if the demand for

your services is dropping.

Remember, if you are a financial member

of APAN, you can also reach out to us

for a consultation to discuss any need

that you may have. It is amazing how a

30-minute session can turn things around

for you. Ph: 07 55930360 or email us for

a time that will suit both parties. APJ

ARE YOU STRUGGLING

WITH INCONSISTANT

STAFF PERFORMANCE?

THEN HELP IS ON ITS WAY.

During the past month we were able to

support several businesses who were

struggling with inconsistent staff mood

and a decline in staff performance. By

joining as a member of APAN they were

able to access our Mental Hygiene and

Business Development Program FREE,

valued at $400. This program has been

carefully designed with the assistance

of HR experts who have put together a

series of simple activities to help business

owners foster a happy and productive

work environment.

Uncertainty breeds anxiety and during

these turbulent times, businesses must

remain agile and flexible to change. If

you are a business owner in this industry,

you are often required to carry a diverse

range of responsibilities to maintain

business viability. In our industry, the

compounded stress is often leading to

mental health issues contributing to a

reduction in productivity and inability to

visualise strategies for sustainability and

implement a plan for future growth.

Our research has confirmed that almost

42% of businesses we surveyed stated

that because of the challenges in coping

with their stress, business owners

preferred to decrease staff numbers and

downsize their business.

On the other hand, while others were

managing well, they were concerned

with the inconsistent standards of staff

performance as mental and emotional

pressures were impacting their

capacity to meet their daily targets and

responsibilities to the level of excellence

that is expected of them.

If you are a current financial member

and you have not accessed this program,

we urge you to do so. If you are not a

member you can purchase it or better

still, join as an APAN member and access

it for free. Visit https://apanetwork.

com/ and click on the Mental Health and

Business Development icon on the

right side of the screen and gain

immediate assistance. APJ

APJ 73

RESEARCH

UBIQUINOL

AND ATP PRODUCTION, ACTIVATING THE

SKIN AND BODY’S ENERGY PRODUCTION

Tina Viney

As a result of our fast-paced and often stressful life, it is not

uncommon to experience a prolonged feeling of fatigue. This

can be manifest at varying levels, depending on underlying

health issues, lifestyle factors, diet, and even how well we

manage our stress. Additionally, as the world population has

just gone through a pandemic, studies are now confirming the

impact of the aftermath of the pandemic, known as COVID long

haul, which is manifesting with over 50 symptoms, with fatigue

and brain fog at the top of the list.

One useful supplement that is now well supported by scientific

studies in addressing this condition is Ubiquinol, a compound that

is part of the Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) family, which plays a crucial

role in the body’s energy production process. It’s an antioxidant

that is naturally produced by the body and is also available as a

dietary supplement.

CoQ10 exists in two forms: ubiquinone and ubiquinol:

• Ubiquinone is the oxidised form

• Ubiquinol is the reduced form.

Both forms are important for cellular energy production in the

form of adenosine triphosphate (ATP) within the mitochondria,

often referred to as the “powerhouses” of cells.

Ubiquinol also acts as an antioxidant, helping to protect cells from

oxidative stress and damage caused by free radicals. Free radicals

are unstable molecules that can harm cells and contribute to

various health issues, including ageing and certain diseases.

CoQ10 is naturally found in the body, with the highest levels in

the heart, liver, kidney, and pancreas. As we have stated, it helps

generate energy in cells by making the antioxidant adenosine

triphosphate (ATP), which is involved in cell energy transfer, and

serves as an antioxidant to protect cells against oxidative stress.

WHAT DOES COQ10 DO TO THE BODY?

Oxidative stress can interfere with regular cell functioning and

may contribute to many health conditions. Therefore, it is not

surprising that several chronic diseases have also been associated

with low levels of CoQ10.

CoQ10 production decreases as you age. Thus, older people can

be deficient in this compound.

Some other possible causes of low CoQ10 levels include:

• genetic defects in CoQ10 synthesis or utilization

• increased demands by tissues because of disease

• mitochondrial diseases

• oxidative stress due to ageing

• side effects of statin treatments

Potential benefits of ubiquinol supplementation include:

1. Energy Production: Ubiquinol is involved in the electron

transport chain, a crucial process for generating ATP, the

energy currency of cells.

2. Heart Health: CoQ10, including its ubiquinol form, is

believed to support heart health by helping the heart

muscle function properly and improving circulation.

3. Antioxidant Protection: Ubiquinol’s antioxidant properties

may help reduce oxidative stress and support overall

cell health.

4. Brain Health: Some research suggests that CoQ10 may

have a role in supporting cognitive function and

neurological health.

5. Mitochondrial Function: As an essential component of

APJ 74

the electron transport chain, ubiquinol is important for

maintaining healthy mitochondrial function.

6. Ageing: CoQ10 levels tend to decline with age, and

some people use ubiquinol supplements as part of

their anti-ageing regimen.

7. Skin health: CoQ10 taken internally, as well as applied

topically has been proven to minimise the appearance of

wrinkles and improve overall skin smoothness and tone.

HOW DOES CoQ10 WORK ON THE SKIN?

Harmful elements like cellular damage or a hormonal imbalance

can lead to reduced skin moisture and protection from

environmental aggressors, as well as the thinning of the layers

of the skin.

High levels of oxidative stress levels can also contribute to

persistent and increased levels of inflammation that not only

speed up the ageing process of the skin, but also compromise the

longevity of your skin treatment results.

According to a human study* applying CoQ10 directly to the skin

may help reduce oxidative damage and help decrease the depth of

wrinkles and promote antioxidant protection. The study concluded

that when formulated in an oil in water nanoemulsion, it provided

an efficient vehicle for delivering the CoQ10 through the skin

barrier. The nanoemulsion enhancing solubility and permeability

of the CoQ10 reducing skin wrinkles and gave the skin a

smoother appearance.

THE BENEFITS OF MICROCURRENT IN ACTIVATING

ATP PRODUCTION

While long haul COVID may have compromised our ATP in

both the skin and body, there is one technology that is gaining

popularity and that is microcurrent. Scientific evidence shows that

microcurrent works by stimulating the production of adenosine

triphosphate or ATP. ATP is produced in the mitochondria which

is considered the powerhouse of the cell. It is responsible for the

use and storage of cellular energy, or more commonly known as

‘energy currency’. Similarly, to how petrol is fuel for a car, ATP is

like fuel for our cells.

ATP is created from glycolysis which is the breakdown of glucose.

The glucose gets broken down into pyruvate where it enters the

mitochondria, gets oxidised and makes ATP. This process is known

as the Krebs cycle. The more ATP is created, the more energy

supply, the cells will have.

Scientific studies prove that ATP is essential for most cells to

function properly. ATP is involved in muscle contraction, nerve

transmission, protein synthesis, cell-to-cell communication and

much more. It helps with all metabolic processes and triggers

the product of collagen and elastin. Anyone can benefit from

an increase in ATP. The creation of ATP decreases with intrinsic

ageing, regardless of the environment, but even more so with

inflammation and other health-related conditions.

WORKING FROM THE INSIDE OUT

There are now numerous studies that confirm the important

benefit of CoQ10 in supporting energy levels from within, while

microcurrent can also work specifically on the ATP of skin cells,

the combined approach can help support overall energy levels as

well as enhanced skin conditions.

As new advances are providing us with greater evidence on

how we can combat fatigue at a cellular level, the benefit of a

professional collaboration between aesthetics and integrative

medicine is providing exciting new possibilities as both professions

identify the value of working together for better patient and

client outcomes. APJ

Ref: * Optimization of nutraceutical coenzyme Q10

nanoemulsion with improved skin permeability and

anti-wrinkle efficiency

Eman.S.El-Leithy, Amna M Makkey, Abeer M Khattab,

Doaa G Hussein

APJ 75

MEMBER PROFILE

TRACY DOBBIN

A LEGACY IN

THE MAKING

In life, there are those who treasure their knowledge and shield it

for their own gain. On the other hand, there are others who thrive

in sharing their knowledge and wisdom liberally, and in doing so,

they create a path to continue to influence the world well after

they are gone. This is because part of them will continue to live

through those they have impacted. This is how we define legacy.

Tracy Dobbin is a resolute and passionate educator who has

devoted her life to training and educating the¬ next-generation

beauty and aesthetic professionals. Additionally, she services her

loyal clientele, who explicitly trust her and her expert mode

of care.

As a valuable APAN member, we are delighted to provide you with

a glimpse of the heart and mind of this incredible industry thought

leader and industry icon.

APJ Q1: Tracy, what is your professional background and

how did you enter this industry?

Tracy: My initial training in Beauty Therapy was with the lovely

Kaye Beaumont back in 1981 at Surfers Paradise. Since graduating,

I have had an insatiable curiosity and fascination for the profession,

so I have explored many facets as possible. I‘ve taken on various

positions, including owning and operating eight salons, product

sales, training and salon business consulting, a locum role for tired

salon owners, as well as an exciting role in resort spa and retail

management, I also moved into training and formal education early

with various RTOs.

In the late 90s I completed a Liberal Arts Degree majoring in

psychology and business management. As I was interested in

focusing on education, I completed my fourth year at CSU with a

Graduate Diploma in Vocational Education and Training.

APJ Q2: How long have you been involved in teaching and

what modalities and training units are you focused on in your

educational delivery?

Tracy: I have always been enthusiastic about education and have

been involved in it from the very beginning. Since 2015 I joined

the teaching faculty of Southbank TAFE in Brisbane exclusively.

Within my role I have delivered units to simulate salon operations

and several core practical units as well as Specialised Facials

and Microdermabrasion, often considered the prized units of

the Training Package. This year I have also been involved in the

I have always

been enthusiastic

about education

and have been

involved in it from

the very beginning.

Apprenticeship Program which requires, that as the teacher for

Brisbane, I am responsible for delivering the whole 29 units.

APJ Q3: You also have your own aesthetic practice, what

services do you provide and what do you enjoy the most?

Tracy: While I love and enjoy the diversity of delivering training

and education in a variety of modules, in my own practice I now

have the privilege of providing just those treatments that I

thoroughly enjoy. These are age-specific skin treatments. I love

working with mature skin types and conditions, and as a 59-yearold,

I understand their concerns. As many of my clients are around

my age, we journey together toward best possible skin health, using

great products and technology and with careful consideration of

underlying issues such as hormonal changes, post-COVID issues or

other health concerns that we all experience.

APJ Q4: What inspires you the most in your profession?

Tracy: When it comes to inspiration, I love the incredible diversity

that this industry avails us to. There are so many modalities with

rich blends of science, innovative procedures and product delivery,

and the opportunity to move into the psychology of client care and

APJ 76

support. As a profession this is exciting for me as it allows me to

carve out a practice layering science and luxury.

APJ Q5: Over the past few years there have been many

changes within the beauty and aesthetics industry, what

positive changes have you identified and what areas do you

see expanding into the future?

Tracy: I have to say I am thrilled to see the industry moving

towards a focused approach to the psychology of client evaluation,

as well as the advancement of procedures with a solid foundation

of improved wellbeing. This is opening exciting opportunities to

pursue a clear path for us toward allied health. Progressively, we

are also identifying the importance of medical wellness, allowing us

to work collaboratively with health professionals for the benefit of

our clients.

It is also exciting to see the advancement of technology and

the incredible tools that are now available to us to pursue skin

improvement and correction procedures at levels that were not

previously possible. On going advances offer new opportunities to

expand our knowledge and education to higher levels, as well as to

move into tertiary education.

APJ Q6: You recently attended the APAN Aesthetics

Conference, what aspects of the two-day event did you enjoy

and gained the most benefit?

Tracy: I was really impressed with the excellent professional

contribution from the different speakers demonstrating industry

diversity. I was also inspired by the evolution of chemistry in

ingredient formulations, the new advances in the Microbiome

‘movement’ were so fascinating. This area of science expands our

understanding of how to work more efficiently and protectively in

skin therapies, while also opening new opportunities to take our

results beyond the skin to overall health.

The exhibition and the workshops were packed with great

education, information exchange, and networking opportunities.

There were so many exciting elements to the conference to expand

our knowledge and to be professionally re-energised. It was a

powerful two days of networking and fresh learning.

We wish Tracy Dobbin continued professional success as

she continues to inspire others and challenge

professional excellence. APJ

APJ 77

INGREDIENTS

GLYCERINE

THE CLASSIC HYDRATOR THAT CONTINUES

TO LEAD IN COSMETIC FORMULATIONS

Tina Viney

Topical application of glycerol-containing products improves

skin properties in diseases characterised by xerosis and impaired

epidermal barrier function, such as atopic dermatitis.

In the world of skincare there are several hardworking, beneficial

ingredients that get very little attention, but are vital to the

performance of cosmetic formulations and to the skin. Glycerine

is one such skin-identical ingredient. Despite the every-growing

introduction of new novel skincare ingredients, glycerine

continues to remain a favourite within numerous skincare brands.

At a recent interview, a well-respect dermatologist in the US

was questioned about her favourite ingredient in supporting the

integrity of the skin around the eyes. Her response was that she

favoured glycerine even over hyaluronic acid. So, why is glycerine

holding its own in the competitive skincare market?

Let’s investigate.

WHAT IS GLYCERINE?

Glycerine is a natural component of healthy skin. It’s also known

as glycerin and glycerol, the latter being the term most often

seen in studies about this classic ingredient. When used in

skin care, glycerine can be derived from vegetable and animal

sources or made synthetically. In any of these forms, glycerine is

hygroscopic, meaning it can draw moisture from the air around

us and help keep that moisture in the skin - in other words, it’s a

humectant. Other humectants include hyaluronic acid and sodium

hyaluronate.

A CLOSER LOOK AT THE SCIENCE

Glycerol is a trihydroxy alcohol that has been included for

many years in topical dermatological preparations. In addition,

endogenous glycerol plays a role in skin hydration, cutaneous

elasticity and epidermal barrier repair.

The aquaporin-3 transport channel and lipid metabolism in the

pilosebaceous unit have been evidenced as potential pathways

for endogenous delivery of glycerol and for its metabolism in the

skin. Multiple effects of glycerol on the skin have been reported.

The diverse actions of the polyol glycerol on the epidermis

include improvement of stratum corneum hydration, skin barrier

function and skin mechanical properties, inhibition of the stratum

corneum lipid phase transition, protection against irritating stimuli,

enhancement of desmosomal degradation, and acceleration of

wound-healing processes. Even an antimicrobial effect has

been demonstrated.

Topical application of glycerol-containing products improves

skin properties in diseases characterised by xerosis and impaired

epidermal barrier function, such as atopic dermatitis. The increase

of epidermal hydration by glycerol is critical in skin conditions

aggravated by dry and cold environmental conditions, e.g. winter

xerosis. There are numerous studies that have reviewed the effects

of glycerol on the skin, the mechanisms of its action, and the

potential applications of glycerol in dermatology, with extensive

evidence of its benefits to skin health.

GLYCERINE’S SKIN BENEFITS

While there are several benefits that glycerine provides the skin,

the primary reason for its popularity in skincare formulations is its

capacity to hydrate the skin and help it hold on to moisture. Other

benefits are:

• Helps to shield the skin from environmental sources

of irritation.

• Works with emollients and oils to make dry skin feel soft

and supple.

• Fortifies and strengthens the skin’s moisture barrier.

• Enhances the penetration of other ingredients into the

skin’s uppermost layers.

• Improves the skin’s resiliency and youthful look.

GLYCERINE AND SKIN HYDRATION

Beyond glycerine’s humectant properties, studies also confirm

its involvement in the transportation and activity of aquaporins

within our skin’s surface. Aquaporins are key players in maintaining

the skin’s moisture balance, keeping it feeling smooth and

APJ 78

comfortable even in hotter climates. They’re known as channelling

proteins because they intuitively channel the flow of vital

hydrating substances (including water and glycerol) to and within

the skin’s uppermost layers.

DOES GLYCERINE BOOST COLLAGEN?

Glycerine and collagen are both naturally occurring substances

in the body that share a role in helping maintain the skin’s overall

health. While glycerine doesn’t necessarily boost collagen, it can

help stabilise it and anything you can do to help retain collagen is

certainly beneficial for skin.

IS GLYCERINE BETTER THAN HYALURONIC ACID?

While glycerine and hyaluronic acid share many of the same traits

and benefits as they are both humectants, there isn’t a marked

advantage to selecting one over the other. Each has its role to play

in boosting skin health, so both can help you achieve a plumped,

revitalised looking skin.

IS GLYCERINE GOOD FOR ALL SKIN TYPES?

Glycerine is good for all skin types because research shows that

it mimics the skin’s natural moisturising factor (NMF). As we age

and are subjected to environmental stressors, and the skin’s NMF

becomes depleted. Whether you have dry, oily, or even blemishprone

skin, replenishing it with glycerine makes the skin’s moisture

barrier more resilient, while not clogging the pores.

GLYCERINE’S ACTION ON DRY, OIL OR SENSITIVE SKIN TYPES

For dry skin: Glycerine is known as a skin replenishing ingredient,

meaning that it helps keep the skin’s surface strong and protected

from environmental damage. Over time, environmental exposure

causes skin to become dull, dry, and flaky. Glycerine’s ability to

defend the skin and help it retain vital hydration is part of why it’s

included in so many moisturises for dry skin.

For oily skin: Despite its ability to retain moisture, glycerine is an

excellent choice for oily skin as well (oily skin needs hydration just

as much as any other skin type). Glycerine is lightweight and noncomedogenic,

making it an ideal ingredient for oily skin that needs

moisturisation to stay younger-looking and healthy. As a bonus,

glycerine doesn’t feel oily and is even suitable for blemish-prone skin.

For Sensitive skin: Glycerine is also a good choice for sensitive

skin, because it’s a natural component of the skin. Studies also

confirm that it helps to visibly calm redness and inflammation. It’s

one of the gentler ingredients you can find in skincare products

and can even help alleviate signs of sensitivity over time.

IS GLYCERINE SAFE FOR THE SKIN?

Glycerine has a long history of safe use on the skin and is also

considered a non-allergenic, fragrance-free ingredient. In 2019,

the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel evaluated relevant

data and concluded that glycerine, “is safe as a cosmetic ingredient

in the practices of use and concentration” as described in the

panel’s safety assessment. Their report looked at maximum use

concentrations of up to 79.2% glycerine in leave-on products and

99.4% in rinse-off products.

IN CONCLUSION

We can see that the reason for glycerine’s popularity is that it is

not only safe for all skin types, but also offers incredible benefits in

supporting skin health. You will find it in cleansers, toners, serums

and moisturisers. APJ

References:

Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, April 2020, pages 372-376

American Journal of Cell Physiology, May 2020, pages 1,144-1,153

Food Chemistry, September 1999, pages 483-487

European Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, December 2013,

pages 638–645

Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation, March 2021, pages 223-231

International Journal of Toxicology, December 2019, pages 6S-22S

APJ 79

RESEARCH

SUN

PROTECTION

UPDATE

REVIEWING THE

MYTHS AND FACTS

Prof. Terry Everitt

We all know that exposure of the skin to the sun (and other UVR

sources) can cause both short-term and long-term changes in the

skin’s structure, however, the practice of proper photoprotection

by the wider public remains inadequate, as often the level of

advice can vary, and not based on scientific evidence. In this

article Terry Everitt provides an update on the facts and addresses

some persistent misconceptions that are currently circulating.

While Australia has had many sun protection education programs,

there remains a few areas of concern, a worldwide survey

has revealed.

There is a lot of fearmongering and multiple mistruths and myths,

such as sunscreens killing coral reefs, getting into the blood and

killing people, benzene contamination and so on to discount.

Sometimes this is confusion between countries – what is true of

the European countries is not valid in America or Australia. I cannot

cover them all in this article as they are far too many, but I will cover

some and give a few facts along the way only relating to Australia.

Starting with a recent international study of online interviews

conducted in 17 countries across America, Europe, Asia, and

Africa, for which Australia was the sole representative of

Oceania. Below are the results of behavioural concepts from the

respondents to the survey. Representative results of the survey

below are extracted from the Australian statistics of

1000 respondents (Guitera, 2023).

Behaviour Australia Worldwide

A tan makes a healthy look 58% 64%

Sun-related skin health

awareness

That sun protection is useful

during overcast weather

It is safe to expose themselves

without protection when

already tanned

Protected from the sun

all year round

More likely to wear a hat

or a cap

Wear sunglasses with

UV filters

When applying sunscreen,

apply it only once daily

When already tanned, reduce

the frequency of application

and/or use lower protection

Regretted not having

previously used better

protection

The difference between UVA

and UVB is not understood

94% 88%

81% 61%

14% 23%

30% 23%

73% 55%

71% 56%

72% 74%

30% 44%

65% 57%

78% 70%

As you can see, Australians are generally more likely to engage in

photoprotective behaviours than the worldwide population, but

not in every instance.

When considering myths, here are some of my “favourite myths”

that keep on living.

APJ 80

1. Sunscreen provides adequate protection.

No, it does not. Sunscreens in Australia are only tested to

protect against UVB, so they may prevent burning, but only

if applied correctly, yet provide no protection against the

damages of UVA.

2. As long as you block UVB rays, which cause burning,

you are safe.

As with the above myth, the long-term damage of UVA

radiation is the real problem, not seen for many years after the

injury. You can check the daily UVR index from the Australian

Radiation Protection and Nuclear Safety Agency https://www.

arpansa.gov.au/our-services/monitoring/ultraviolet-radiationmonitoring/uv-index-model

or the Australian Government

Bureau of Meteorology http://www.bom.gov.au/uv

3. The higher the SPF, the longer the protection.

You would hope so but is not also true. High SPF numbers

lead to a false sense of security in thinking one is protected for

longer – even all day, which is invalid.

4. A tan makes you look healthy.

A tan is a UVR scar. Since ultraviolet light is a carcinogen, there

is no safe amount of tanning; it simply shows damaged skin.

5. Tanning booths are illegal in Australia.

If only this were true – they are illegal on commercial premises;

however, many people use them at home and unlicensed

premises.

6. You need physical blockers to protect against UVA and

UVB rays.

Only zinc oxide as a physical ingredient provides complete

protection, titanium dioxide provides partial protection across

the UVB-UVA spectrum.

7. Layering several products with SPF ratings increases protection.

It seems logical, yet not factual. If you layered a moisturiser

with an SPF of 15, a mineral power of 4 and another product

with an SPF 15, what total SPF would you have? See the

answer below.*

8. Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are natural.

Valid only if left in the ground – once they appear in your

product, they have undergone massive processing and are

nowhere near natural anymore. They start as powders and are

unstable, needing significant amounts of sensory-enhancing

esters or silicone materials to improve their ability to be spread

across the skin.

9. Natural plant oils can provide SPF protection.

No plant oil has been able to pass the required UV testing to

provide an SPF rating for consumer use, which is why none

carry approved certification of SPF testing.

See this video from Belinda Carli at the Institute of Personal

Care Science https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vPRTLllYADU

10. You only need sun protection when at the beach or out all day.

While a great idea to have sun protection at the beach, it is

generally the ‘incidental’ damage that is accumulative that is

the concern.

While clouds do uptake much UVB rays, UVA comes through

and even through glass. Driving or sitting inside near glass

windows, UVA damage is occurring. They might not get burnt,

bet they are certainly ageing, much more than just the minutes

ticking by.

11. Sunscreens damage coral reefs.

This is not proven, and recent science says it is not damaging

the reefs (Miller et al., 2021; National Academies of Sciences,

Engineering, and Medicine. 2022; Wheate, 2022).

APJ 81

SPF is not accumulative – the single highest

number is what you get.

In Australia, AS/NZS 2604:2021 requires that the claimed

SPF of a water-resistant product be based on post-water

immersion, a 2 or 4 hr water-resistant sunscreen will almost

not wash off at all, but this is not the same in many other

counties. (Waterproof claims are now illegal).

12. SPF 50 is not much better than SPF 30

SPF 30 blocks approx. 96% with SPF 50 blocking approx. 98%.

It does not seem much; however, it is the wrong metric to

worry about. More important is the amount such SPF number

allows UVR transmission into the skin.

SPF 30 allows some 3.3%, while SPF 50 allows 2%. Changing

these numbers means SPF 30 allows 1.65% more UVR

transmission than an SPF 50 or SPF 50 is approx. 150 % as

effective as the SPF 30, or 50% more effective. I know – it

does get confusing.

NOW A FEW FACTS AND ONLY THE FACTS

Primary sunscreens (primarily for protection from UV radiation)

are regulated as therapeutic goods by the TGA. They must

conform to the Australian Regulatory Guidelines for Sunscreens

(ARGS) [updated in May 2023] (ARGS 2023, May) which describe

the regulatory requirements and standards for sunscreens and

are listed in the Australian Register of Therapeutic Goods (ARTG),

thereby having an AUST L number.

Comply with principles of Good Manufacturing Processes (GMP)

requirements specified in the Australian and New Zealand

Sunscreen Standard (AS/NZS 2604:2012).

Secondary sunscreens (with a primary purpose other than sun

protection) are regulated as cosmetics by the Australian Industrial

Chemicals Introduction Scheme (AICIS) and the Australian

Competition and Consumer Commission (ACCC).

Most people use enough of the product to get the protection they

think they are getting, and how do you know how much protection

you need?

First, let’s consider how is sun protection tested for the SPF

number?

Sun protection products are a drug, yet an over the counter (OTC)

one, so a legal requirement that any product with a sun protection

claim must have a high level of evidence to support the statement.

Such formulas need to be SPF tested following ISO 24444:2010, a

requirement in use in over 60 countries.

Super important to know that SPF testing is conducted by

applying 2 mg of product per square centimetre of skin in a lovely

laboratory setting, which is irrelevant to the real-world situation.

This is equivalent to approximately 35 grams of product over a

typical adult body to get the SPF protection claimed on a label.

Of course, no one uses that much, so one is not getting the

protection they think. How it is applied makes a big difference, and

what happens after it is applied also reduces the protection value.

If the client comes back to complain your SPF product does not

work, then many questions, and some solid education is needed –

the product is tested to work – what was not tested is the client.

How does one tube of SPF protect everyone when their skin is

different?

Simple maths yet needs to start with a person’s minimal erythemic

dose (MED). How long, without protection against UVR, does it

take to get the start of erythema in minutes? Then multiply the

MED by the SPF; in theory, that is how long in minutes the SPF

would protect you. I say in theory as in practice, not always the

case – dependant on the amount and application and what it is

protecting against. Remember SPF: MED + 2 mg:cm 2. It is also

true that the protection decreases as time passes (dependent on

the MED), so re-application is essential.

Sunscreen and broad spectrum

In Australia, to be a claimed sunscreen, a product must protect

against UVB radiation – that’s it—no protection against UVA. If

tested against UVA, the product is labelled as Broad Spectrum –

this is needed for sun protection.

The current list of approved ingredients for sunscreens (UVB

AND UVA) are listed in the Australian regulatory guidelines for

sunscreens (Version 3, May 2023), which has changed slightly from

the previous version.

CURRENT AUSTRALIAN/NEW ZEALAND STANDARDS

• AS/NZS 2604:2021 Sunscreen products: Performance of

sunscreen products in terms of their protection factors

• AS 4399:2020 Sun protective clothing - Evaluation and

classification: The relative capability of materials and

clothing items to protect against solar ultraviolet radiation

(UVR).

• AS/NZS 1067.1:2016 Eye and face protection (AS/NZS

1067.2:2016/Amdt 1:2018): Minimum requirements for

sunglasses, fashion spectacles and replacement filtersexcluding

prescription filters.

References:

* Here is the Answer to layering

moisturiser questions above:

If you layered a moisturiser with an SPF of 15, a mineral

power of 4 and another product with an SPF 15,

what total SPF would you have?

SPF is not accumulative – the single highest

number is what you get.

A total SPF of 15 with a great hope might

be broad spectrum. APJ

ARGS (2023, May). Australian Regulatory Guidelines for Sunscreens.

Therapeutic Goods Administration, Department of Health and Aged Care.

https://www.tga.gov.au/resources/resource/guidance/australianregulatory-guidelines-sunscreens-args

Guitera, P. (2023). Melanoma/Oncology. Australasian Journal of

Dermatology, 64(Suppl. 1), 77–96. DOI: 10.1111/ajd.14045

Miller, I. B., Pawlowski, S., Kellermann, M. Y., Petersen‐Thiery, M.,

Moeller, M., Nietzer, S., & Schupp, P. (2021).Toxic effects of UV filters

from sunscreens on coral reefs revisited: regulatory aspects for “reef safe”

products. Environmental Sciences Europe, (33)74. doi.org/10.1186/

s12302-021-00515-w

National Academies of Sciences, Engineering, and Medicine. (2022).

Review of Fate, Exposure, and Effects of Sunscreens in Aquatic

Environments and Implications for Sunscreen Usage and Human

Health. Washington, DC: The National Academies Press. https://doi.

org/10.17226/26381.

Svobodova, A., Walterova, D., & Vostalova, J. (2006). Ultraviolet lightinduced

alteration to the skin. Biomed Papers, 150(1), 25-38.

Wheate, N. A (2022). Review of Environmental Contamination and

Potential Health Impacts on Aquatic Life from the Active Chemicals in

Sunscreen Formulations. Australian Journal of Chemistry, 75. 241-248.

doi.org/10.1071/CH21236

APJ 82

TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS

5 LEADING SOCIAL MEDIA

TRENDS YOU NEED TO

KNOW FOR 2023

1. “Edutainment” content will rule

Edutainment isn’t just for kids anymore. A

few select industries have tapped into the

value of creating entertaining, informative

and educational content. In 2023,

everyone will get in on the fun.

Last year, several brands found massive

success in creating thoughtful, saveworthy

content. To find out what we

mean, turn to Chime’s TikTok account.

Their content strikes a balance between

jokes about relatable financial woes

and seriously helpful tips on money

management.

Short-form video’s rise in popularity

fosters the perfect conditions for fun facts,

tutorials and explainers to thrive on social.

No wonder educational content is on most

marketers’ minds when partnering

with creators.

Brand Takeaway: This is your opportunity

to demystify a common industry

misconception, or provide the perfect

life hack featuring your product. Comb

through your FAQs and inbound social

messages to find questions or discussion

topics that may be of interest to your

clients. It’s all about making education

also fun. Brainstorm how you might

address those using a TikTok or Instagram

Real.

2. Businesses will put more money

behind video production

At this point, it’s safe to say that video

isn’t going anywhere. When TikTok was

still an emerging platform, it made sense

for businesses to task video creation

duties as an additional responsibility to

their social media team. Now that the

average consumer is watching 80 minutes

of TikTok every day, business leaders are

realising that it’s no longer “emerging”.

It’s here.

To ensure their brand can stand out in

this new social media landscape, forwardthinking

businesses are investing more

in video production equipment and staff.

So, you’ll probably be getting a few extra

hands to help with video editing, direction

and brand storytelling.

Brand Takeaway: If the discussion isn’t

already in motion, it’s time to review your

social media strategy and include videos in

your social media marketing mix.

3. The content creator economy will

continue to blossom

According to video analytics firm Tubular

Labs, creator and influencer viewership

will hit 10 trillion views per month across

all platforms in 2023. In 2022, influencer

content was watched 13.2 times more

than media and brand content.

If you don’t leverage creator marketing

over the next 12 months, you’re missing

out on a major opportunity.

Marketers across industries collaborate

with creators to generate more

engagement, strengthen social

communities and reach new audiences.

As the playing field becomes more diverse

and focused, more brands will be able

to find and connect with creators that

operate within their target market.

Brand Takeaway: If you need help finding

your next great creator partnership, start

within your community. Search through

your followers, superfans, customers and

partners. Chances are you’ll find a crop of

individuals with growing audiences that

will be thrilled to work with your brand.

4. How brands talk about sustainability

will change

For the past few years, brands have

proudly disclosed their environmental

sustainability goals to meet the interests

of conscious consumer. Now, many are

opting for a quieter approach.

This practice, known as “green-hushing”,

comes as a response to fears of being

called out for greenwashing. Numerous

nonprofit watchdog organisations are

dedicated to calling out faux-sustainability

claims. Overstating your brand’s practices

can land an entire business in hot water.

Brand Takeaway: Treat every post that

discusses your business’s corporate

social responsibility practices as a PR

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TIPS FOR BETTER BUSINESS

announcement. Vet the copy and claims

with a PR and CSR rep to make sure what

you’re saying is accurate and identify any

potential risks that the post may present.

Make sure your claims are truthful and not

exaggerated.

5. Social commerce will get up and dust

itself again

Social commerce was the social media

trend on everyone’s mind late 2020 and

in early 2021. Then, mounting recession

fears promptly pushed it into a backseat.

As a result businesses rolled back features

and brands made strategic pivots and we

all braced ourselves for whatever

lies ahead.

And then people kept shopping.

The end of 2022 saw a record-breaking

Black Friday/Cyber Monday, creating a

surge trend in spending on luxury goods,

and the return of “haul” posts on TikTok

and Instagram Reels. Despite a gloomy

economic outlook, people are still spending

on their favourite must-haves and doing

their purchasing research on social.

Brand Takeaway: Get up to speed on

social commerce features by network. You

can complete tons of quick optimisations

on your profiles to ensure a speedy

checkout experience for when a follower

finally becomes a customer. APJ

Reference: Forbes: Content Creators and

Business Partnerships

ARE YOU UP TO DATE

WITH YOUR EMPLOYER

OBLIGATIONS?

With recent changes to employment law

the Australian Tax Officer is advocating

the benefit of using their resources to help

businesses simplify their compliance with

their employer obligations. Resources

available through the ATO will assist

you in:

• Reporting through Single Touch

Payroll (STP) enabled software

• Calculating and reporting pay as you

go (PAYG) withholding

• Paying super guarantee (SG) on time

• Calculating and reporting your fringe

benefits tax (FBT).

For more information see

ato.gov.au/employers

DID YOU HIRE AN EMPLOYEE OR A

CONTRACTOR?

This is another area that is often

misunderstood.

When introducing a new staff member to

your team you need to determine what

type of worker you have hired because:

• It affects your tax, super and

other obligations (such as workers

compensation insurance) and the

records you are required to keep.

• Penalties and charges may apply if

you get it wrong.

Some workers are always employees,

including apprentices, trainees, labourers

and trade assistants. APJ

To work out if you must pay super for

certain contractors at visit ato.gov.au/

employeecontractoressentials.

A full outline of your employer

obligations can be accessed from

ato. gov.au/employers

APJ 84

Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcome

DOES YOUR LOGO NEED

A FACELIFT?

To remain successful in business you will

need to slowly, but consistently evolve,

letting your consumers know that you

are never static, always seeking ways of

improving your services, so that you can

consistently provide them with something

fresh, new and exciting, while maintaining

your high standards.

There are so mays ways that you can do

this, from updating your treatment menu,

introducing new services, new products

that expand across a more exciting and

divers retail range, to subtle changes in

the colour scheme within your décor.

However, one of the simplest and most

impactful ways that you can let consumers

know that you are evolving and upgrading

your brands is through a subtle or more

modern twist to your logo.

Let’s check out a few new trends in

logo designs:

Your first step is to take a closer look at

your current logo. What message does it

convey about your brand? Do you need to

make it more playful, modern or classic?

What are the underlying messages you

want to convey? Take some time out to

decide whether you need an updated twist

or a complete makeover. Do you need to

change the colour or the font … where do

you start?

TOP EMERGING LOGO TRENDS

If you want to be a trendsetter, here are

some of the latest design trends:

1. Hand-drawn: Real life is unscripted

and an authentic way of exhibiting

that with your business is by

showcasing a hand-drawn logo.

This trend has the ability to look

unfinished in a romantic way and

does far more to convey a brand’s

aesthetic with the personality that

imbues the drawing.

2. Traditional with a Twist: In 2023,

coping with reality is a key theme

we see playing out in design.

Manoeuvring through the ‘new

normal’ in 2022 meant we’ve needed

to innovate on what we know and

what we’ve experienced in the past.

And one way we see creatives reflect

on this is through the translation

of traditional, cultural imagery into

striking contemporary logo designs.

3. Retro red liners: Going off 2022,

we’ll notice more use of the colour

red (rather than black) in 2023’s

monochrome logo designs. This is

especially so when the logo features

a character or mascot. Commanding

attention, the colour red symbolises

heightened emotion and luck.

So, it makes sense that designers

are turning to it to emphasise the

personality of the brand they’re

creating for. Bright colours also speak

of glamour and showcasing beauty.

4. Playful line doodles: Escapism

doesn’t always look futuristic.

Sometimes, it’s simply about

searching for the positives in the

environment around you. And that’s

what this trend is all about. Use

natural colours such as greens or

blues, or even an uplifting or cheerful

colour, such as yellow.

5. Twists on traditional designs: In

2023, coping with reality is a key

theme we see playing out in design.

Manoeuvring through the ‘new

normal’ in 2022 meant we’ve needed

to innovate on what we know and

what we’ve experienced in the past.

And one way we see creatives reflect

on this is through the translation

of traditional, cultural imagery into

striking contemporary logo designs.

6. Clean Geometric designs: Designers

use geometric shapes and white

space to play mind games on the

viewer, as they see an abstract

pattern first and the represented

letters second. It’s almost like an

optical illusion, with designers adding

a deeper level of interaction and

playfulness to designs.

7. Modern art deco: Originating in

1910, art deco is enjoying a revival.

And, as with any revival, designers

are updating it for today. The font you

use is key to the impact of this design.

It speaks of perfection through

simplicity.

8. Molecule-inspired abstract

patterning: In this logo design trend,

we see more sci-fi-inspired imagery.

But unlike the “submerged in sci-fi”

trend, this trend isn’t paying homage

to fantasy—it’s celebrating fact.

So how are designers interpreting

science as imagery? Many of these

logos incorporate DNA helices,

which also brings another theme

to this trend’s story. DNA is the

foundation for all life, and by overtly

depicting them or implying them

through blobby circles and linked

dots, designers express the sense of

connection and belonging we feel

with each other. Molecule-inspired

abstract patterning presents one

of the purest forms of logo design.

It bridges the gap between classic

iconography and simplistic logo

marks in a fluid and abstract way.

Sometimes, a simple change such as

a refreshed logo, can convey a shift in

your message that positive changes are

happening with your brand. APJ

APJ 85

APJ 85

BUSINESS

THREE WINNING STRATEGIES TO

ELEVATE STAFF

PERFORMANCE

Andy Heyne

Andy Heyne is the CEO of Millionaire Salon Coach and the owner of

The Skin Coaches. His true passion lies in helping business owners

achieve optimal business growth through a supportive and cohesive

staff performance that operates with integrity and efficiency.

Having run several successful salons, Andy knows what it takes to

achieve business success. In this article he shares three winning

strategies that are central to achieving and maintaining highly

productive staff performance.

In the competitive world of aesthetic impeccable quality service

isn’t just desired, it’s the primary expectation that consumers now

demand. But did you know that the core of this service quality lies

in your staff’s performance? Let’s unravel this further.

HOW EMPLOYEE PERFORMANCE IMPACTS

BUSINESS GROWTH

Client satisfaction: Have you ever experienced a service where

the practitioner’s expertise was so evident that it not only

delivered exceptional results, but also contributed to an incredible

experience? That’s the magic of skilled performance! In the

aesthetics industry, this directly correlates to client satisfaction,

trust and ultimately, contributes to their loyalty to your business.

Contributing factor in referrals and business growth: Consider the

following – a satisfied client not only returns, but also is happy to

introduce others to your business. This word-of-mouth marketing is

one of the most effective ways to grow a business - this is powered

by top-notch employee performance, and if you can achieve this, it

will not only translate to pure gold for business growth, but it can

also be achieved organically. So, let’s look at three key strategies you

can implement to raise your staff’s performance.

Strategy 1: CONTINUED TRAINING AND SKILLS DEVELOPMENT

Embracing new skills and techniques: The beauty industry is

ever evolving. By ensuring your staff is updated with the latest

techniques, you’re not just staying relevant; you’re also staying

ahead of the curve. This includes keeping your team up to date

and confident in cross-servicing and effective retailing. What

sales training do you provide your team? Your training should be

consistent and should include the following:

• Communication skills

• Product demonstration training

• Effective closing strategies

• How to overcome client objections without being pushy.

Think of it like sharpening a knife. Regular training refines the

skills, ensuring precision with each cut, or in this case, each service

and interaction!

Strategy 2: EMPLOYEE INCENTIVE PROGRAMS

The power of reward-based systems: Remember when you were a

child, how impactful it was when you were rewarded for a job well

done? This is still considered one of the most effective universal

strategies for motivating others. Incentives can supercharge

employee motivation! It’s important to note that for your

incentives and rewards to work, they must connect with your

staff on a personal and intrinsic level, this will motivate them to

improve their performance as they will value the personal benefit

to their life.

Incentives are very important. If you examine any high performing

business, you will, often discover that they will have a robust

incentive program in place. Rewards, be they monetary or

recognition-based, can elevate performance levels exponentially.

Knowing what inspires your team to wake up and get dressed

every day at their core is CRUCIAL here.

Strategy 3: BUILDING A STRONG TEAM CULTURE

The importance of team cohesion: You know that age-old saying,

“United we stand, divided we fall”? A united team ensures

a streamlined operation that fosters a happy, coherent and

productive work environment. You can also create team power,

by including them to contribute to the business’s future growth

planning. People feel valued when they are invited to contribute

and be part of something much bigger than themselves. While

team contribution is powerful, you will need to have the right

people in your team to achieve this.

Creating an environment of mutual respect: In a world brimming

with competition, an environment where every opinion is valued,

and every effort acknowledged can make the difference between

a good and a great team. Gain permission to hold your team

accountable to their daily, weekly, monthly and annual goals. This

will foster a mutual respect at the highest level. Accountability is

one of the cornerstones to building a high performing team.

USE TECHNOLOGY TO FURTHER ENHANCE PERFORMANCE

Utilising performance-tracking tools: Gone are the days of manual

tracking. Modern tools provide real-time insights into staff

performance, ensuring timely feedback and improvements. We

use a semi-automated spreadsheet to track each team member’s

performance alongside all the clinics. These spreadsheets are

transparent, and the team can see them at any point. We also use

these in our performance reviews. There is no need for smoke and

mirrors. It is important to be completely TRANSPARENT!

MEASURING AND MONITORING PERFORMANCE METRICS

Numbers don’t lie! By keeping a close eye on key performance

metrics, your businesses can pinpoint areas of improvement and

tailor strategies accordingly.

Elevating staff performance in aesthetic businesses isn’t just about

enhancing skills; it’s about creating an ecosystem where excellence

thrives. Adopt these strategies and watch your business touch

unparalleled heights.

If you wish to improve your staff’s performance, you will need

to implement a proven system and the support of your team in

their accountability. Once you master these strategies you can

transition your staff to amazing productivity, but also create a

rewarding work environment that they will be proud to be part of.

If you would like to discuss your business needs, book a free

introductory consultation with Andy. APJ

Ph: 0425 569 655 | www.millionairesaloncoach.com

APJ 86

Renowned as the global authority in

Dermal Needling, Dr Lance Setterfield’s

The Concise Guide to

DERMAL

NEEDLING

Third Medical Edition – Revised and Expanded is considered

the go-to manual for all your questions answered when

treating skin conditions through this modality.

ACCESS UP-TO-DATE INFORMATION ON:

• The science behind the results

• Expectations and outcomes

• Treatment parameters and protocols

• Synergistic treatment modalities

• Cautions and considerations

• Avoiding the inflammatory response

• Products and ingredients to avoid

NEW: PRP/LMW-HA/STEM CELLS/PARABENS

To access a copy of your manual visit:

www.apanetwork.com/resources/the-concise-guide-to-dermal-needling

APJ 87

COSMETIC CHEMISTRY

HOW EFFECTIVELY CAN

SKIN CARE

INGREDIENTS

PENETRATE THE SKIN?

Tina Viney

When choosing a skincare product for your client, your aim is to

match an appropriate formulation with the skin condition that

you wish to treat. Your choice of formula will be determined by

what you wish to correct based on what layers of the skin are

impacted.

When determining corrective procedures, the common questions

that practitioners ask is “What skincare ingredients or formulas

make it into the skin’s inner layers to create change?

There has been a lot of talk lately about the ability (or inability)

of topically applied skincare ingredients to be absorbed into

your skin, where they can get to work, helping to improve its

appearance. The fact of the matter is however, that effective skin

penetration of skincare ingredients can be quite complicated and

will highly depend on a variety of factors, including the overall

condition of the skin, any exfoliating procedures you have used to

prepare the skin, the molecular weight of the active ingredients

you are using and the overall formula of the finished product.

In this article we will review what to look for in skincare

ingredients when it comes to skin restoration and repair, as well as

ingredients that strengthen and protect the skin’s outermost layer

from environmental damage.

HOW SKIN PENETRATION WORKS

Before we review individual ingredients let’s do a very quick

review of basic skin biology.

The skin has evolved to be a protective mechanism. It is literally

a barrier to separate us from the outside world. As we know, it’s

composed of three main layers.

Epidermis: “Epi” is a Greek term is used as a prefix meaning upon

or above, so the epidermis is the layer that’s upon or above the

dermis. This is the part of skin that you directly interact with.

As we know, the outer layer, the stratum corneum, is dead. The

thickness of this layer does vary based on location. It’s very thin on

the eyelids, for example, and much thicker on the bottoms of your

feet. The lower levels of the epidermis are where new skin cells

are made. It’s also the layer responsible for making melanin which

gives the skin its colour. And as we already said, the key role of the

epidermis is to protect your body.

Dermis: The next layer, the dermis, is where body hair, sweat

and oil come from. It’s also home to nerve endings which are

responsible for your sense of touch. Additionally, collagen and

elastic fibres are resident in this layer giving the skin its flexibility

and volume. There are also blood vessels in the dermis, and it is

here where the blood supply feeds and nurtures the skin through

oxygen and nutrients. This is why for effective skin therapies we

must review the body’s overall state of health, as this also plays a

key role in this skin’s appearance and its ability to respond to our

treatments.

Hypodermis: The bottom layer of skin is the subcutaneous fat

layer which is also called the hypodermis. This layer basically

attaches the upper layers of skin to the bone and muscle below.

The fat insulates you from temperature variations as well as

physical shock, and it contains even more, larger blood vessels.

PATHWAY OF INGREDIENT PENETATION

As we can see, an ingredient has many barriers to overcome

before it can penetrate though your skin, so, let’s review what

determines how well that penetration will work.

One of the best ways to understand the penetration pathways

of the skin is to consider the analogy of skin cells as “brick and

mortar”. Consider skin cells as tiny bricks stacked up on one

another with some sort of mortar or cement in between them.

When considering how an ingredient will penetrate to the deeper

layers of this skin, we need to consider what the ingredient must

do to find its way in between those layers. We also need to look at

the mechanisms that are responsible for this penetration and what

conditions control the degree of penetration.

FOUR FACTORS THAT CONTROL SKIN PENETRATION

Size/molecular weight

An important factor is the size of the molecule which is tied to its

molecular weight. Most molecules in skincare are simply too large

to slip between those cracks between the “bricks” of the dead skin

cells.

For example, although we know that collagen in the dermis is

responsible for maintaining the skin’s volume and density, placing

collagen within a skin cream will only stay within the top layers of

APJ 88

the epidermis as the molecular weight of collagen is too large to

penetrate and reach the dermis.

The rule of thumb, as presented by cosmetic chemistry, is that

anything smaller than 500 Daltons can penetrate skin, while

anything larger than 500 Daltons cannot. A Dalton is the standard

unit that is used for indicating mass on an atomic or molecular

scale.

It is interesting to note that common allergens tend to be smaller

than 500 Daltons, this is why they can penetrate the skin and

cause reactions.

Oil soluble vs water soluble

In general, oil soluble ingredients penetrate much better than

water-soluble ingredients because the skin itself has a lipid

biolayer that tends to repel water and is therefore waterproof.

However, fat soluble ingredients are more readily able to be

absorbed into the skin. In technical terms we describe this as the

hydrophile or lipophile balance of the ingredient.

A classic example here is a water-soluble alpha-hydroxy acid like

lactic acid which works on the surface of the skin. Compare that

to a more oil soluble beta-hydroxy acid like salicylic acid which can

penetrate pores to fight acne. This makes sense because much of

the intercellular space is filled up with lipids like ceramides.

Polarity/charge

Last, the polarity or the charge of the molecule is also important.

For example, both sugar and salt are water-soluble, but one

is polar, and one is not, so you’d expect them to penetrate

differently. Collectively these properties help determine how likely

an ingredient is to penetrate the skin. Another factor to consider is

the condition of skin itself.

The condition of the skin

When it comes to the penetration of ingredients the condition

of the skin, as well as its density, which differs depending on its

location, will also play a role in how well it will absorb ingredients.

For example, the skin under your eye is very thin, which is one

of the reasons that dark circles show up so easily. Thin skin is

more prone to penetration than thick skin. When you consider

the kinetics, if there is less distance it has to penetrate through, it

makes sense that the less dense the skin cells the greater potential

for an ingredient molecule to get through.

APJ 89

Also, abraded skin is more susceptible to penetration than intact

skin. This is the principle behind skin exfoliants, both chemical,

such as hydroxy acids and enzymes, as well as physical skin

removal techniques, such as microdermabrasion or puncturing

the skin as with a skin needling procedure, will improve its ability

to absorb topical substance. This is awhy following any of these

procedures with the application of skin activating serums will

allow them to gain better access to the skin’s internal environment

and support positive change.

INGREDIENTS WITH CAPACITY TO PENETRATE THE SKIN

As we previously stated the molecular size of an ingredient

is a key factor in its ability to penetrate the skin and support

skin improvement and change. Two key ingredients that have

favourable capacity in penetrating the stratum corneum are amino

acids and peptides.

Amino acids: Amino acids are the building blocks of polypeptides

and proteins and play important roles in metabolic pathway, gene

expression, and cell signal transduction regulation. A single organic

amino acid molecule contains two functional groups – amine and

carboxyl – and a unique side chain. Humans require 20 different

amino acids; eleven are synthesised in the body and nine obtained

from dietary sources.

Amino acids, work best when they can penetrate the stratum

corneum in order to reach the underlying epidermal layers of the

skin. While the molecules of proteins are too large to penetrate

the skin, amino acids are known to be easily absorbed into the skin

because of their small molecular size, as well as number of other

characteristics, including the charge or neutrality of the particular

molecule. Current research suggests that amino acids may also

help other ingredients to more effectively reach the middle layer

of the skin, when they otherwise may have remained near

the surface.

So, because amino acids can easily penetrate the skin themselves,

as well as help other ingredients to do so as well, they are quickly

becoming some of the most popular skincare ingredients in

contemporary cosmetic formulations. They have also been shown

to improve a wide range of skin concerns, including dry, flaky

conditions, signs of ageing, razor burn, sunburn, and even minor

cuts and scrapes.

Peptides: Peptides are short chains of amino acids that play a

crucial role in various biological processes. Some peptides have

been studied and formulated to penetrate the skin effectively.

These peptides are often used in skincare products to target

specific skin concerns. To recognise them in your ingredient listing,

here are a few examples of peptides that are known for their

ability to penetrate the skin:

1. Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl): This peptide is

commonly found in anti-ageing skincare products. It is

believed to stimulate collagen production, leading to

improved skin elasticity and reduced appearance of wrinkles.

2. Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline): Also known as

“Botox in a jar,” this peptide is used in skincare products

to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by

relaxing facial muscles.

3. Copper Peptides: Copper peptides combine copper with

small protein fragments. They are believed to promote

wound healing and skin regeneration, making them

popular in anti-ageing and scar-reducing formulations.

4. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

(Matrixyl 3000): These peptides work together to

stimulate collagen synthesis and improve the skin’s

firmness and texture.

5. Palmitoyl Oligopeptide: This peptide is known for its

potential to stimulate the production of collagen and

hyaluronic acid, both of which contribute to skin

hydration and plumpness.

It’s essential to note that the efficacy and safety of peptides

can vary, and their penetration and effects on the skin can be

influenced by various factors, such as the formulation of the

skincare product and individual skin characteristics. Additionally,

ongoing research is continually introducing new peptides or

further advancements in this field.

Another consideration is that while peptides can be effective

in skincare products, their performance can vary depending on

the specific formulation and concentration used. Additionally,

individual skin types and sensitivities can also influence how well

the skin responds to peptide-based products. When checking your

ingredients, the higher up they appear on your ingredient listing the

higher the concentration of that ingredient within the formula.

APJ 90

Abraded skin is more susceptible to penetration than intact skin. This

is the principle behind skin exfoliants, both chemical, such as hydroxy

acids and enzymes, as well as physical skin removal techniques, such

as microdermabrasion or puncturing the skin as with a skin needling

procedure will improve its ability to absorb topical substance.

THE ROLE OF DELIVERY VEHICLE IN SKINCARE

It’s important to consider the formula from which the ingredient

is being delivered for two reasons. First, if it’s a rinse off product,

it’s unlikely to result in very much penetration. That’s because

penetration is measured in milligrams per square centimetre per

unit of time. That unit of time is frequently hours not minutes

and certainly not seconds. Therefore, it is extremely unlikely that

anything that is rinsed off the skin will have time to penetrate. A

leave-on product, like a moisturising lotion, gives the ingredients

much more time to penetrate. (Note: an exception could be

ingredients that are highly substantive to skin).

Second, there may be other ingredients in the formula that

enhance penetration. These “penetration enhancers” are typically

as either lipid materials or ingredients with polyol (OH) groups.

They can be chemicals that are either synthetic or natural in

origin and they’re thought to work by changing the way the lipids

in-between the skin cells are packed together, like the “brick and

mortar” we previously mentioned. Some well-known examples

include ethanol, some PEGs, methyl pyrrolidone and jojoba oil.

What about liposomal delivery systems?

Liposomes are one of the most effective ways of delivering

active substance through the intact skin. Liposomes are sphereshaped

vesicles consisting of one or more phospholipid bilayers

that enclose an internal aqueous volume. These vesicles are

formed when amphiphilic lipids confront with aqueous milieu.

Both hydrophilic and lipophilic substances can be transported

in liposomes. Their development has substantially enhanced

the deliver of ingredients not just in skincare but also in the

transdermal delivery of therapeutic drugs.

Possible advantages when using liposomes:

• Their ability to encapsulate active molecules and carry

them through the outer impenetrable barrier layer, into

the epidermis. This results in the enhanced efficacy and

tolerability of these products.

• Protecting and delivering otherwise unstable ingredients.

• Liposomes can effectively deliver active ingredients in

cosmetics, but also as a medicine, these structures can be

very useful.

• Offer a time release mechanism.

THE KEY CONSIDERATION WITH INGREDIENT PENETRATION

While we are seeking to achieve rapid and sustainable results, the

ethical issue we need to consider is “how safe is the ingredient

that we are delivering into the skin.” If an active ingredient

reaches the stratum germinativum (the layer that interface with

the dermis), that ingredient has the potential to come in contact

with the blood stream, allowing it to be absorbed into the body.

This is where the issue of safety is also a critical consideration.

IS INGREDIENT PENETRATION ALWAYS NECESSARY?

The role of the aesthetic or dermal practitioner is not just to

pursue ways of restoring skin repair and rejuvenation, but equally

important, to establish routines that provide effective preventative

measures from environmental or extrinsic ageing. To achieve

this, the protective cosmetic product will best work if they

consist of a larger molecular structure, ingredients that support

the repair of the skin’s barrier function and the microbiome,

helping to strengthen the skin’s defence and immune function.

Examples could be broad spectrum sunscreens as well as physical

sunscreens such as zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. For supporting

the prevention of extrinsic skin dehydration hyaluronic acid

with larger than 500 Daltons is also an excellent option. Other

ingredients include allantoin, aloe vera, resveratrol, Niacinamide,

ceramides, Fatty acids and glycerine.

REVIEW THE RISKS OF INGREDIENT PENETRATION

Setting aside for the moment the question of whether or not an

ingredient does or does not penetrate the skin there is another

important question to ask. If it penetrates the skin what are the risks?

If it just penetrates through the upper layers of skin and is not

absorbed into the bloodstream it will eventually just be sloughed

off as part of the dead skin cells. To present a systemic hazard it

has to not only penetrate the skin, but it has to be absorbed from

the skin into the bloodstream.

Once in the bloodstream our bodies have a very efficient filtering

mechanism in place to remove toxins. This is another reason

why the concept of the dose makes the potentially hazardous

ingredient an important consideration. Low levels of contaminants

will be filtered out by the kidneys and they will either come out in

your urine or faeces.

Of course, some contaminants can overwhelm the body’s natural

filtering system and be hazardous to your health. Lead is a good

example – very small amounts of lead are filtered out of your body.

That’s one of the reasons while low levels of lead are permitted in

a lipstick, but higher doses of lead do build up in your body and

cause health problems. My point is that the difference between

skin penetration and skin absorption is an important distinction.

IN CONCLUSION

As a skin therapist, knowing your ingredients is critical to

achieving excellent results. Growing your knowledge on both

ingredient science and product formulations is an important

pursuit to your practice. With numerous products now available

on the market, make sure that the manufacturer of the products

you use complies with Good Manufacturing Practices - look for

GMP certification. APJ

APJ 91

SCIENTIFIC NEWS

WOMEN TAKING ORAL

OESTROGEN THERAPY

ARE MORE LIKELY TO

DEVELOP HIGH BLOOD

PRESSURE

The average age of natural menopause

among women worldwide is about 50

years, much younger than previously, and

treating postmenopausal concerns has

been problematic.

A woman’s body produces less oestrogen

and progesterone after menopause,

changes that may increase the risk for

cardiovascular diseases, including heart

failure, with previous studies showing

that specific types of hormone therapy

have been associated with higher rates of

heart disease.

Three different routes of hormone

therapy administration, oral, transdermal

and vaginal application, found that

those taking oral oestrogen therapy

had a 14% higher risk of developing

high blood pressure compared to those

using transdermal oestrogen and a 19%

higher risk of developing high blood

pressure compared to those using vaginal

oestrogen creams or suppositories.

Compared to oestradiol, conjugated

equine oestrogen was associated with

an 8% increased risk of developing

high blood pressure, yet it must be

said that conjugated equine oestrogen

is a somewhat older therapy with more

contemporary solutions now available.

Researchers found that the longer the

time or higher doses of oestrogen, the

greater risk of high blood pressure.

However, a significant limitation of the

study was with oestrogen-only therapy,

with many treatments combining

oestrogen and progestin and a small

study size in Canada.

Kalenga, C. Z., Metcalfe, A., Robert, M.,

Nerenberg, K., MacRae, J., & Ahmed, S.

(2023) Association Between the Route

of Administration and Formulation of

Oestrogen Therapy and Hypertension Risk

in Postmenopausal Women: A Prospective

Population-Based Study. Hypertension,

80,1463–1473 doi.org/10.1161/

HYPERTENSIONAHA.122.19938.

Of course, this must be balanced with

the essential benefits of hormone

therapy, which include treatment of

typical menopausal symptoms. While

not discounting HRT, the type, dose, and

administration seem more critical than the

replacement therapy.

The use of hormone replacement therapy

(HRT) in women with appropriate

indications is vital. Yet, hormone therapy

should not be considered as prevention

or treatment of hypertension or heart

disease, as has been previously. APJ

SUGAR SUBSTITUTES

DON’T HELP WEIGHT

CONTROL AND MAY

INCREASE THE RISK OF

HEART DISEASE AND

DIABETES

APJ 92

Research and Scientific New Developments

In every issue of the journal, Terry Everitt our scientific educator, conveys a few items of scientific interest. In italics, are his

thoughts on the subject matter of the research study.

The World Health Organization (WHO)

has published a 90-page guideline

regarding the use of non-sugar

sweeteners, warning that the user may

increase the risk of cardiovascular

diseases and type 2 diabetes and

warning against the use of these

additives for weight control or managing

noncommunicable illnesses linked

to obesity.

Nearly two billion adults and more than

340 million children and adolescents are

overweight or obese, according to the

WHO’s most recent estimates.

While sugar substitutes are often touted

for having fewer calories than sugar - or

no calories at all - it’s unclear whether

long-term use can aid weight loss or

management. Various studies have

provided differing outcomes, so conclusive

evidence remains to be found.

What is known is that taking non-sugar

sweeteners for short periods (three

months or less) was associated with

lower weight and body mass index

yet didn’t improve other indicators of

cardiometabolic health, such as glucose or

insulin levels. However, longer-term use

did not have added weight loss or

other benefits.

Across longitudinal prospective cohort

studies, higher use of non-sugar

sweeteners correlated with an increased

risk of obesity, type 2 diabetes, several

cardiovascular diseases - including stroke -

and death from any cause.

The guideline is designated as a

conditional recommendation, meaning the

WHO isn’t sure whether the benefits of

avoiding sugar substitutes outweigh the

risks in most cases.

World Health Organization (2023). Use

of non-sugar sweeteners: WHO guideline.

Geneva:

The reason why the guideline was

conditional is that the evidence is not

conclusive, and more research is needed

to fully elucidate the role of non-sugar

sweeteners in weight management and

chronic disease,

The WHO recommendations remain

essential given that the use of non-sugar

sweeteners is increasing - especially in light

of efforts to reduce added sugar intake, yet

an accumulating body of evidence has

raised concerns about their consumption. APJ

OPTIMISING SKIN

QUALITY WITH

INJECTABLE POLY-

L-LACTIC ACID AND

HYALURONIC ACID

Multiple techniques are in use for

the plethora of dermal filler cosmetic

injections; however, their use is not

limited to ‘filling’.

While achieved in Australia, one

technique is not as common as in the

Americas and Europe - using some dermal

filler solutions for skin enhancement.

This exciting study (with significant

limitations in the author’s disclosure

statements) outlines the effectiveness

of using Poly-L-Lactic Acid (PLLA) and

subdermal NASHA small particles

injections to improve the collagen and HA

content of facial skin rather than to fill the

dermal component of the skin structure.

Will not elucidate the process, as those

interested can access the paper for the

details. However, the authors report that

the subjects presented a statistically

significant increase in skin elasticity,

hydration, radiance, and smoothness,

corroborating patient and physician

perception of skin improvement after

PLLA treatment.

Munia, C., Morais, M., Sato, M., Parada,

M., & Avelar, L. (2023). Optimising Skin

Quality with Injectable Poly-L-Lactic Acid

and Hyaluronic Acid. Journal of Clinical

and Aesthetic Dermatology, 16(6),26–29.

https://jcadonline.com/2023/06/01/)

Dermal fillers have successfully created

volume within the dermal component of

the skin. Yet, the skin remained the same

here. The authors give specifics in the

treatment of the skin features such as

texture, clarity and even colour, critical

features of perception of improved skin

physiology leading to ‘beautiful skin’. APJ

BERBERINE IS CURRENTLY

HOT NEWS IN SOCIAL

MEDIA FOR WEIGHT

LOSS, BUT IS IT SAFE?

First, as with everything, just because

it is ‘natural’ does not always make it

safe. Ozempic (brand name of the drug

semaglutide), a diabetes drug, was found

to aid in weight-loss, so many pressured

their doctors to prescribe ‘off label’ to

lose weight. This caused a massive supply

shortage (worldwide) and resistance by

doctors to prescribe for such purposes, so

alternatives were found that did not need

a prescription.

Berberine to the rescue is readily available

online, in pharmacies and in health food

stores. Berberine is extracted from plants

APJ 93

SCIENTIFIC NEWS

such as goldenseal and barberry—a bittertasting

isoquinoline alkaloids chemical.

There is nothing new about this, as it has

been used in traditional medicines for

various gastrointestinal disorders and

infections.

Interestingly morphine and codeine are

from the same chemical class.

Social media got hold of Berberine as

some studies show that it leads to modest

weight loss in people who are obese. But

the data are inconclusive as most published

studies are small and of varying quality.

These show that taking 300-3,000mg of

berberine a day orally is associated with

modest reductions in body mass index

(BMI), waist circumference and body

weight (around 3kg). These results were

most significant in women with a BMI

great than 30, taking at least 1,000mg

daily for at least three months.

That is far more than usually available and

tested only in obesity, so it is unknown

if weight-loss occurs with obese people.

There is no data as to what happens when

people stop taking Berberine.

Common side effects include diarrhoea,

constipation, gas and an upset stomach.

Large quantities may be fatal. It is also not

recommended in pregnancy as it is known

to cross the placenta.

It reacts with many other drugs, including

the immune-system ciclosporin, cough

suppressants like dextromethorphan, and

herbal remedies and medicines used to

lower blood pressure, lower blood sugar

levels, reduce blood clotting, and help with

relaxation and sleep.

It is not the same as Ozempic, which works

by imitating a natural hormone called

glucagon-like peptide-1 (GLP-1). This

hormone is essential because it helps the

body produce insulin to regulate blood

sugar levels.

Hinton, T., Wheate, N., & Roubin, R.

(2023, June ). Conversation. Sydney

Pharmacy School, University of Sydney.

Berberine has gained much popularity

since Ozempic become difficult to get in

Australia due to supply shortages. Many

believe it is the same as Ozempic which is

not the case.

Due to the different pathways, it plays

some significant roles in a preventative

manner, such as ameliorating chronic

kidney disease through inhibiting the

production of gut-derived uremic toxins in

the gut microbiota. APJ

CELLULAR, MOLECULAR

FEATURES INVOLVED IN

PSORIATIC DISEASE

APJ 94

Research and Scientific New Developments

In every issue of the journal, Terry Everitt our scientific educator, conveys a few items of scientific interest. In italics, are his

thoughts on the subject matter of the research study.

This study shows that mild and severe

forms of psoriasis can be identified by

the activity of critical cells and signalling

pathways beneath and beyond the

apparent reddish, flaky lesions.

The findings help explain how small areas

of skin inflammation can have wideranging

effects on other parts of the

body. Up to one-fifth of those with skin

disease develop joint inflammation or

psoriatic arthritis.

The study relied on spatial

transcriptomics, a technique that

carefully charts the molecular and cellular

interactions occurring in a specific tissue,

mapping hidden features of inflammation

and how they are compared in cases of

increasing severity of the psoriatic disease.

The study indicated that psoriasis

comes down to the location of clusters

of fibroblasts, critical regulators of

inflammation, along with white blood cell

macrophages that were more common in

the upper layers of the skin in more-severe

cases of psoriasis.

The resulting gene activity increased

in more than three dozen molecular

pathways tied to metabolism and control

of lipid levels, factors known to go awry in

diabetes and cardiovascular diseases. This

increased gene activity even occurred in

clear skin far from lesions, none of which

occurred in non-psoriasis controls.

While many available therapies, including

steroids and immunosuppressive drugs,

reduce inflammation and symptoms, they

do not address the underlying causes of

the disease.

The study adds to this knowledge and

provided clues as to the spread of psoriasis

and how interventions are achieved by

dealing with the causative factors.

Castillo, R. L., Sidhu, I., Dolgalev, I., Chu,

T., Prystupa, A., Subudhi I., Yan, D.,

Konieczny, P., Hsieh, B., Haberman, R.,

Selvaraj, S., Shiomi, T., Medina, R., Heguy,

A., Loomis, C., Chiriboga, L., Ritchlin,

C., Garcia-Hernandez, M., Carucci, J.,

Meehan, S., Neimann, A., Gudjonsson,

J., Scher, J., & Naik, S. (2023). Spatial

transcriptomics stratifies psoriatic

disease severity by emergent cellular

ecosystems. Science Immunology, 8(84).

doi.org/10.1126/sciimmunol.abq7991.

Results such as these give measurable

molecular signals that could tell us

who is more likely to develop severe

psoriasis, as well as who is at higher risk

of developing related disorders that often

accompany psoriasis, such as arthritis and

cardiovascular disease that can trigger

this and other conditions, such as type 2

diabetes, heart disease, and inflammatory

bowel disease. APJ

DO BREAST IMPLANTS

CAUSE SQUAMOUS CELL

CARCINOMA?

A few media reports lately have made

this assumption, but they have not got

the whole story. A small PubMed metaanalysis

showed 16 cases with a mean

duration from initial implant placement to

presentation of 23.56 years. Researchers

concluded that breast implant-associated

squamous cell carcinoma (BIA-SCC) was a

rare complication of breast implantation

that can result in significant morbidity

and mortality.

Breast implants have not been linked

with an increased risk of primary breast

cancer; however, it is known that from the

breast implant capsule, a T cell-associated

anaplastic large cell lymphoma (BIA-ALCL)

(first reported in 1997) is a risk with

textured implants.

BIA-SCC is a rare, epithelial-based tumour

distinct from BIA-ALCL, first reported

by Paletta et al. (1992). Risk factors are

unknown as there are minimal cases and

resulting data.

The aetiology of this tumour can only

be hypothesised, with the researchers

suggesting it must come from the initial

surgery, where epithelial cells are

introduced with the implants or when

ducts are cut in the surgery.

It is clearly not normal to have epithelial

cells within primary breast tissue or even

on breast implant capsules.

So, it appears the implants do not cause

concern, yet the surgery to implant them

is of concern in some rare cases.

Glasberg, S., Sommers, C., & McClure,

G. (2023). Breast Implant-associated

Squamous Cell Carcinoma: Initial Review

and Early Recommendations. PRSGlobal.

DOI: 10.1097/GOX.0000000000005072

The number of BIA-SCC cases is minimal,

and the inclination to describe this as a

“rare” tumour is correct; however, BIA-SCC

joins BIA-ALCL as an additional concern,

mainly because it is the only pathology that

can confirm the SCC on the capsule as no

other signs appear to be diagnostic, other

than seroma. APJ

APJ 95

BUSINESS

WHY 2023 SAW A RISE IN

AESTHETIC

CONFERENCES

Tina Viney

Following the social restrictions, that we have experienced in the

past few years, not surprisingly the new ‘must-do’ trend within

our industry this year is conference attendance. In fact, in 2023

we have seen a phenomenal increase in conference programs of

over 50%.

While social media is a popular way of learning what is happening

in the industry, it is not the same as attending a face-to-face event

for many reasons. Let’s check a few:

Sharpening your Saw

The statement “sharpen your saw” was coined several years ago by

business thought-leader Stephen Covey in his book The 7 Habits

of Highly Effective People. The idea is that sometimes you have to

take a break from the “work” of your work to sharpen your skills.

A dull axe won’t cut a tree nearly as effectively as a sharp one. As

APAN also stages an annual conference, it is a joy to always see

business owners and their staff leaving a conference event with a

renewed zest and a more effective and efficient approach to

their work.

Gain accurate information

While a common tool is to use the online options to gain new

information, the problem with the web and social media is that

you often waste a lot of time navigating through information that

may be unreliable or even outdated. On the other hand, a wellcurated

conference program, especially if it orchestrated by an

independent industry body), will allow you to access the best-ofthe-best

in terms of accurate and credible education, updates on

regulatory issues that are relevant to your work, as well as sound

scientific data and industry updates, all in the one event.

Be inspired by experts face-to-face

As humans, we are designed to thrive through communities.

There is nothing more fulfilling than meeting someone you admire

face-to-face, and conferences offer you the perfect opportunity to

meet an inspirational expert, and even being given the opportunity

to shake their hand and interact with them on a personal level.

This could have never happened online. It is a very different and

exhilarating experience meeting someone in real life.

Spontaneous networking opportunities

The beauty of a conference event is that often you don’t know

whom you will meet. Being in an environment of like-minded

professionals can be highly resourceful. One of the most exciting

experiences you can have is to even meet a competitor who is

prepared to share their knowledge with you, especially if they

can offer you new insight into a business practice that you are

investigating. Well-designed conferences allow for amazing

opportunities for attendees to mix and mingle, form new

relationships, and strengthen existing ones. Over coffee, lunch, or

cocktails, you may make a connection with the perfect individual

who has the right approach to a challenge that you are seeking a

solution for.

Experience products hands-on

While you can review products or equipment on-line or through

the printed press, there is nothing like getting a hands-on

demonstration or trialling a skincare product. It is easier to

review the quality, the true size, as well as speak to a company

representative face-to-face.

Break Out of Your Comfort Zone

Have you ever noticed that many businesses will often take their

staff to an external environment to train them? There is a reason

for this. While there are those among us who are born networkers,

for many of us, live events can be a challenge. But breaking out

of our comfort zones is just the type of action we need to take to

break out of old ways of thinking that are limiting us in in growing

our business. While making changes is important for progress and

growth, when we remain consistently in the same environment,

identifying and implementing a positive change in both our

mindset and our routine can sometimes be an impossibility, as

it is easier for us to remain in our comfort zone and what we are

familiar with.

The power of targeted workshops

At this year’s APAN Conference event we launched 12 problemsolving

workshops. This was a new addition that allowed greater

diversity for our delegates to attend a workshop where they were

also able to experience the application of knowledge. These were

a great hit, and we intend to introduce them again next year, as

they provided great value both for our delegates, as well as our

exhibitors.

The benefit of a two-day event

While we know that everyone is busy, we encourage you to take

another look at a two, or three-day event. From our research, it

provides greater value for both delegates and exhibitors. Why?

Learning requires the right mindset, so when everything is

crammed into one day, you may experience information overload

APJ 96

As humans, we are designed to thrive through

communities. There is nothing more fulfilling than

meeting someone you admire face-to-face, and

conferences offer you the perfect opportunity to

meet an inspirational expert, and even give you

the opportunity to shake their hand and interact

with them on a personal level.

and miss some important details. Taking a break to attend a

workshop, and spreading your learning experience over two days,

will allow you to think through something you observed, go back

with further questions, or find the space to review things more

carefully and make decisions that will benefit your business.

Distancing yourself a little can prove to be extremely valuable in

helping you to make the right decision. The fact is, if you don’t

make a decision at the right time, you will probably go back to

work and move on without any changes.

Another matter to consider is that on a closer examination, you

will also find that two-days will provide you with greater value

for your money. View the investment as a double portion of

knowledge. When you split the investment, you will be surprised

that the daily rate is in fact, better value.

Larger isn’t always better

Another issue to consider is the size of the event. Large expo

events may be exciting but consider what you are looking for and

do they really provide you with the best environment for quality

time with companies? If there is too much to see, will this distract

you from making a quality decision?

Conference events with a smaller exhibition are now proving to be

the new trend, as they are perceived as being more conducive for

more in-depth interactions and provide a better environment for

learning, decision making and an overall positive experience. At

the end of the day, it really comes down to what you are looking

for. The beauty is that you now have more choices.

IN CONCLUSION

The best advice I can give you if you are to gain maximum value

from your conference events is to carefully review and schedule

in advance the ones that you wish to attend. Don’t leave it to

chance. While you may find a reason not to attend because of

a full appointment book, I can assure you that your clients will

respect and appreciate your commitment to your education,

knowing full well that they will also benefit you’re your enhanced

knowledge through the services you provide them.

If you carefully review some of the most successful and in demand

practitioners, you will discover that they all heavily invest in their

education. They highly value their professional development in

both sharpening their skills, but also in making wiser professional

and business decisions. Plan the events you will attend over the

next 12- months and I assure you that you will retain the leading

edge in your business. APJ

APJ 97

BUSINESS

IS YOUR BUSINESS

PROTECTED

FROM CYBER

CRIME?

For a small business, even a minor cyber security incident can

have devastating impacts. The most recent report from the

Australian Cyber Security Centre indicated that over 76,000

reported cybercrimes were registered in 2023 that is a

staggering 13% increase from the previous financial year.

It is now anticipated that all businesses will at some stage be

impacted by cybercrime, so each business needs to prepare, not

just in case they may be impacted, but rather, when they will

be impacted.

As part of our partnership with the Australian Cyber Security

Centre, APAN will provide valuable guidelines on a regular basis

to help provide recommended strategies for business owners.

Our aim will be to help protect businesses from falling victims to

cybercrime threats.

While no set of mitigation strategies are guaranteed to protect

against all cyber threats, organisations are advised to implement

eight essential mitigation strategies recommended by ACSC as

a baseline. This baseline, known as the Essential Eight, makes it

much harder for adversaries to compromise.

However, by way of introduction we suggest that each business

start by learning and implementing the basics.

While cybercrime can be a complicated issues there are many

simple and inexpensive measures that businesses can use to

improve their security. As a starting point we recommend the

following three:

• Update your software.

• Turn on muti-factor authentication.

• Back up your information.

In this article we will address how updating your device is essential

as the first step to protecting your data.

UPDATE YOUR DEVICE:

Updates are one of the strongest defences in your security toolkit.

It is important to update your device and applications as this can

fix issues and address new security concerns. Updates can also

add new features to your app or device. This is what you need

to know:

• Updates are new, improved, or fixed versions of software.

• Regular updates are critical in maintaining a secure system.

It’s important to check for any updates and make sure that

automatic updates are switched on.

• Cyber criminals hack devices by using known weaknesses

in systems or apps. Updates have security upgrades to fix

these weaknesses. You can turn on automatic updates so

that this happens without your input.

To demonstrate how updates can benefit your business here is an

interesting case study:

Dawn was a busy entrepreneur and always on the go. She rarely

had time to sit down and relax, let alone update her computer

and smartphone. As a result, she’d been using them for some time

without updating them.

One day, Dawn got an email from someone she didn’t know asking

her to click a link. Thinking it was a scam, she ignored it. But the

next day she received a similar email so clicked the link out of

curiosity. To her surprise, her computer was immediately infected

with a virus.

Dawn was devastated. She couldn’t use her computer, which

brought her business to a standstill. She realised an update could

have fixed an old security weakness that the virus got through.

This case shows why it’s important to update your devices when

prompted or to turn on automatic updates. It’s one of the best

defences against cyber threats.

The ACSC is here to help all Australians affected by cyber

incidents. Call our hotline 24/7 on 1300 CYBER1 (1300 292 371)

if you need help or go to ReportCyber.

In 2017, the global ‘WannaCry’ ransomware attack affected over

230,000 victims in 150 countries, targeting Microsoft Windows

users. Microsoft had previously released a security update for all

supported versions of Windows that addressed the vulnerabilities

from ‘WannaCry’. However, people who did not install the update

were vulnerable to the attack. People who had automatic updates

enabled had their systems protected from this vulnerability.

Remember, updating the software on your device is the first step

of protection against cybercrime.

As a starting point, we recommend the following three measures:

• Turn on multi-factor authentication

• Update your software

• Back up your information

This guide might include measures that are not relevant to your

business, or your business may have more complex needs. After

completing this guide, we recommend small businesses implement

Maturity Level One of the Essential Eight.

The Essential Eight Explained

If you have questions about this advice or cyber security more

broadly, we recommend you speak to an IT professional or a

trusted advisor. APJ

APJ 98

APAN Joins the Australian Cyber Security

Centre (ACSC) Partnership Program

With the increase in Cybercrime the risks for every business are high.

Hackers are constantly becoming more sophisticated on how they can access your

accounts and your data. This is contributing to great concern to businesses and a

cause of anxiety, pain and financial losses to businesses.

Always committed to protecting our members and the industry, APAN approached

the Australian Cyber Security Centre (ACSC), the government’s leading national body

responsible for cyber protection.

We have secured a senior authority to speak at the APAN Aesthetic Conference,

to bring the industry up to date with how they can protect their intellectual property,

financial accounts and database from cybercrime.

We are also delighted to be officially invited by ASCS to become a partner in the ACSC

Partnership program. This will allow us to provide our members with additional support

in this area. Through this partnership we will be provided with resources and updates

that we can support and protect our members and their businesses.

APAN is committed to your safety.

STAR PERFORMER

The Complete Guide

to Enzyme Peels

CLINICAL SKINCARE

Pure, Proven, Perfect.

Skin peels play a key role in any skin

renewal strategy as they are highly

effective in prepping the skin for some of

the more invasive treatments.

Compared with chemical peels, enzyme

peels digest dead skin cells without

harming the living, healthy cells. They are

therefore a gentler method of exfoliation,

while still achieving excellent clinical

results. Enzymes are complete proteins

capable of accelerating repair and renewal

in skin cells, which is why they are so

effective in rejuvenating by freeing the

epidermis from dead cells that inhibit

ingredient penetration.

Clinical Skincare has developed six unique

formulations to address a variety of skin

conditions. They consist of an amazing

collection of natural ingredients, sourced

from plants, fruit and vegetables carefully

selected for their compatibility and

beneficial properties to treat every type of

skin condition. Renowned for their amazing

results they provide the astute clinic owner

with specific formulations to perfect their

treatment results.

Cranberry Enzyme Peel

A mild peel with antibacterial, antiinflammatory,

and antiseptic properties

to clarify and calm sensitive skin. Suitable

for treating pustular acne (all grades)

congested and oily skins.

Pumpkin Enzyme Peel

This peel is excellent for treating discoloured, sun damaged, wrinkle-prone skin

conditions. It is also available in two strengths to provide a perfectly customized

treatment option.

Mango Enzyme Peel

For all skin types, even sensitive skin conditions and pre-IPL or post-Microdermabrasion

treatments.

Cherry Berry Enzyme Peel

For treating cystic acne, scarring, dull, tired, and sun-damaged skin conditions.

Papin Enzyme Peel

For treating pigmented, dry, and dehydrated skin conditions.

Zesty Orange Enzyme Peel

For treating sun-damaged, hyper-pigmented, dry and aged skin conditions.

These products are free from mineral oils, lanolin, artificial colours, fillers, petroleum

and synthetic fragrances. These peels are renowned for their highly effective

treatment results.

For over 30 years the Clinical Skincare range has been formulated using pure ingredients

with proven efficacy, as their goal is to guarantee perfect skin health. APJ

1800 628 999

www.clinicalskincare.com.au

APJ 100

The Pink Room can help you to build an

online presence for your aesthetic business

and grow your practice.

Support for Aesthetic

Businesses

Digital

We offer a full range of online

marketing services for your practice.

Solutions

Social Media Made Easy

For Your Aesthetic Clinic

Every business today needs to have a social media

presence, especially in the aesthetics industry. Let

us make it easy for you, so you can spend your

time building your business.

Content

Creation

Engaging content is one of

the most important pieces

of the puzzle for a

successful website.

Search Engine

Optimisation (SEO)

We can implement a

comprehensive SEO campaign

to help gain online visibility.

Social Media

Management

We can help your business

establish a creative and

effective presence on

social media.

(From $500 per month)

Email

Marketing

We provide personally

tailored email campaigns

for your business.

Online

Training

We offer online training

courses to take your business

to the next level.

Done For You

Packages

A fully customised package

encompassing all aspects of

digital media marketing.

CONTACT US:

APJ 101

hello@thepinkroom.com.au Tel +61 438 599 833

Inspiring

Education

FOR CLINICS & SKIN THERAPISTS BY GAY WARDLE

ONE-ON-ONE & TEAM MENTORING

‘INDUSTRY INSIGHTS’ LIVE COURSES

SPECIALISED ONLINE COURSES

E-BOOKS

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