20.09.2023 Views

Surrey Homes | SH105 | October 2023 | Interiors & Bathrooms Supplement inside

The lifestyle magazine for Surrey - Inspirational Interiors, Fabulous Fashion, Delicious Dishes

The lifestyle magazine for Surrey - Inspirational Interiors, Fabulous Fashion, Delicious Dishes

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

Create successful ePaper yourself

Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.

That way the cold weather should kill<br />

off any spores before the bulbs go in.<br />

Planting companions<br />

Your bulbs will look attractive among<br />

other early spring flowering plants.<br />

Biennials are especially effective, because<br />

they flower at the same time and also<br />

tend to be quite frilly and floriferous<br />

– plants like forget-me-nots, bellis and<br />

wallflowers make good ‘skirts’ for the<br />

bulbs and then, as their foliage starts<br />

to die back and become unsightly, the<br />

froth of foliage and flowers will cover<br />

it. Dying foliage out in the borders can<br />

also be hidden (bulb leaves never die<br />

off prettily) with other low spreading<br />

plants, like geraniums, astrantias<br />

and Alchemilla mollis, which will<br />

also grow up and cover the leaves.<br />

After flowering<br />

Once flowering is over, dead-head<br />

to stop them wasting energy making<br />

seed and try to let the leaves die back<br />

naturally – tying them in knots is not<br />

the solution. Some people give them<br />

a feed at this point, but a sprinkle of<br />

general purpose fertiliser over the ground<br />

is welcomed at any point in the spring.<br />

They should start to multiply over<br />

the years if they like the conditions.<br />

Many bulbs bulk up and spread quite<br />

readily, especially those recommended<br />

for naturalising, whereas others seem<br />

to diminish, depending on the variety.<br />

Tulips, especially the really pretty parrot<br />

cultivars and those with frilled or striped<br />

petals are rather fickle and won’t always<br />

appear in future years – the bulbs tend<br />

to split into ‘bulblets’ which take a few<br />

years to gain enough energy to flower.<br />

Potential problems<br />

Bulbs will always perform when first<br />

bought, because they are sold in peak<br />

condition, with everything they need,<br />

packaged up and ready to grow, but<br />

after that it’s up to the prevailing<br />

conditions and the care they receive to<br />

ensure that they keep on flowering.<br />

Bulbs can become ‘blind’, which<br />

means that leaves grow, but no flowers<br />

appear. It’s a sign that they’ve run out of<br />

energy, usually because they’re congested.<br />

If this happens, lift and separate them,<br />

replant and feed with some bonemeal, or<br />

a specialised bulb feed.<br />

Tulips do not like being left in damp<br />

soil all year. If you lift them (and have<br />

the time and inclination) be sure to store<br />

them somewhere dry and away from<br />

pests until it’s time to plant them again.<br />

Buy good sized, nice quality bulbs<br />

– and aim to plant them as soon as<br />

you can after they arrive. If they are<br />

left in their packs for too long they’ll<br />

succumb to infections. Tulips should<br />

really be planted in November once<br />

conditions are cooler and the viruses<br />

in the soil have become less active.<br />

Try to plant bulbs – especially those<br />

in borders – really deep. This improves<br />

flowering and may prevent you slicing<br />

through them later in the year, once<br />

you’ve forgotten where you planted them!<br />

To book a gardening course,<br />

contact Jo on 07923 969634 or<br />

see hornbrookmanor.co.uk<br />

priceless-magazines.com

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!