2023 Fall Gateway to Canyon Country

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Gateway
FALL 2023
To Canyon Country and the Grand Circle
Hiking The Wave
Mountain Biking Page’s
New Red Mesa Rim Trail
Page AZ Balloon
Regatta & Street Fair
www.GatewaytoCanyonCountry.com 1

2 Gateway to Canyon Country

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From the Editor
The ‘payoff’ is all around us
One morning not too long ago, my wife and I
went for a hike in Wiregrass Canyon in Glen Canyon
National Recreation Area.
We were walking at our usual pace when we
explore together – which is to say, we were meandering
at the speed of a pair of desert tortoises
as we scrutinized the ground beneath our feet, the
clouds above our heads, and many things in between.
Nothing is too “ordinary” to catch our attention
on such hikes: Rocks, soil, plants, flying insects
and flitting birds are all subjects of fascination.
On these walks, we often have no destination
in mind and no specific distance we want to cover.
At some point, one of us will say something like,
“We should turn around soon,” which the other
will ignore for another five minutes or 30 minutes
or an hour, before agreeing, yes let’s start heading
back.
On that cool, cloudy day in Wiregrass Canyon,
we didn’t see any other hikers on the outbound
walk. But after we turned around, about halfway
back to the trailhead, we encountered a middle-aged
man and woman who rounded a bend in
the canyon at such a rapid clip that we nearly collided.
The man skidded to a halt with the aid of his
walking sticks, wished us a good morning, and
breathlessly asked, “Is there good payoff at the
end?” I confessed that we hadn’t reached the end
of the trail, wherever that was, and added, “We’re
just enjoying what’s around us.”
“Yeah, this place is amazing,” the man answered
while making only the slightest effort to
swivel his head and look around. “Well, have a
great day,” he added, then leapt back into action
and continued on his way, his hiking companion
following in his wake.
There are many ways to enjoy the outdoors,
one of which is to set out on a quest for the “payoff”
at the end of the trail – whether that be taking
in the view from the peak of a mountain, soaking
in a remote hot spring, watching the sun set behind
a natural sandstone arch, or commiserating with
the lingering spirits of an abandoned mining camp.
But over the years, I’ve also come the realization
that, at least for myself, those goals are secondary
to the “payoff” of simply being outdoors,
of slowing down and savoring the subtle sights,
sounds and smells of the desert that can escape the
notice of those who are in a hurry or whose minds
are focused less on the “here” that surrounds them
at the moment and more on the “there” at the end
of the trail.
That’s not to say I’ve completely abandoned
the notion of goal-oriented hiking. Last May, my
wife and I scored a permit to hike to The Wave
– one of the most coveted “destination” hikes in
the Grand Circle region (see story on page 10).
And even earlier in the year – few weeks after the
Wiregrass Canyon hike – my wife and I tackled
the Spencer Trail at Lees Ferry.
At the outset of the Spencer Trail hike, we
weren’t sure we would make it all the way to the
top of steep, rocky, 2-mile path. We spent a lot of
time standing still, not only enjoying the increasingly
expansive view of the Colorado River as we
gained altitude, but also studying the rocks and
their many variations in color and texture, identifying
different species of cacti, searching for bighorn
sheep tracks, and watching, mesmerized, as a
pair of California condors surfed the wind currents
a few hundred feet below where we stood.
Eventually, despite overworked lungs and tired
legs, we did make our way all the way to the top
and took in the spectacular panoramic view south
toward Navajo Bridge and Grand Canyon, and
north across Horseshoe Bend and Page, all the
way to Navajo Mountain. We sat and ate lunch,
spent some time following another set of bighorn
sheep tracks, and eventually decided it was time to
head back down.
The roundtrip journey took much longer than
the three hours we were told it would take. The
“goal” of the effort was to reach the top of Spencer
Trail, but the true payoff was the living, breathing
and seeing that occurred with each step along
the way. For us, the way down wasn’t much faster
than the way up. We were in no hurry to enclose
ourselves in our car and get back to the “there” of
civilization.
Whichever way you choose to enjoy the outdoors,
our team here at Gateway hopes our magazine
will motivate you to delve into the wide-ranging
natural, cultural and historical wonders that the
Grand Circle has to offer. This is our first Gateway
following a two-year hiatus during the height
of the COVID pandemic, and we are now aiming
to return to a regular publishing schedule to inspire
year-round exploration throughout our beautiful
region. We look forward to having you join us in
our adventures.
Douglas Long
Editor
Gateway
to Canyon Country
is produced by the staff of the
Lake Powell Chronicle,
298 N. Pine St., Globe, AZ
85501
Copyright 2023
News Media Corp.
Phone 928.645.8888
Publisher
Mike Caywood
mcaywood@
lakepowellchronicle.com
Editor
Douglas Long
dlong@lakepowellchronicle.com
Contributors
Steven Law
Bob Hembree
Advertising
Stephanie Preston
spreston@lakepowellchronicle.com
Circulation
Jim Blittersdorf
Connect With Us:
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facebook.com/LakePowellChronicle
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4 Gateway to Canyon Country

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Gateway to Canyon Country
FAll 2023
CONTENTS
6 Gateway to Canyon Country

Hiking The Wave
Page 10
Page Is a Designated Wave Permit Location
Page 15
New Discoveries on Display at
Page Museum and Archives
Page 20
Let The Hub Expand Your
Page/Lake Powell Experience
Page 26
Page Doubles Its Mountain
Bike Trail System
Page 28
By Douglas Long
By Steven Law
By Bob Hembree
By Steven Law
By Douglas Long
Page AZ Balloon Regatta & Street Fair
Page 32
Photo on this page by Douglas Long: A Bureau
of Land Management sign points the
way to The Wave.
Cover photo by Douglas Long: A hot-air
balloon flies over Glen Canyon Dam during
the Page AZ Balloon Regatta & Street Fair.
www.GatewaytoCanyonCountry.com 7

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8 Gateway to Canyon Country

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try out wake surfing, wake boarding,
water skiing, cliff jumping, etc. Our
US Coastguard licensed captains have over 40
years of combined experience boating on Lake
Powell and are prepared to show you the lake from
a perspective that only years of experience offers.
Guided Hiking
Tour to
Wahweap Window
• Short boat ride to
the trail head
• 2-mile guided hike
www.GatewaytoCanyonCountry.com 9

Like water frozen in time:
A Hike to The Wave
Story and Photos
by Douglas Long
10 Gateway to Canyon Country

One morning last May, I was sitting in my
kitchen in Page, Arizona, drinking coffee
and trying to decide what I wanted to do
on my birthday, which was two days away.
For starters, I would be a no-show at work,
which, of course, everyone should do on their birthday.
The other plan that came to mind was riding my mountain
bike from Big Water, Utah, to Alstrom Point in
Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, a ride whose
roundtrip distance would roughly approximate the age I
would be turning – 56.
But I also thought it would be fun to spend the day
hiking to The Wave, located in the Coyote Buttes North
Special Management Area of Pariah Canyon-Vermilion
Cliffs Wilderness. The catch was that the hike requires
a permit from the Bureau of Land Management, which
are allocated by lottery and can be particularly difficult to
get in the popular hiking month of May. I decided to apply
anyway and hope for the best. I’m generally not a lottery-winning
type of person, so in the meantime, I started
making a mental list of everything I would need to carry
for a day-long mountain bike ride to Alstrom Point and
back.
That evening I checked my email and, to my surprise,
saw the congratulatory message from recreation.gov – I
had scored a permit for me and my wife to The Wave. I
logged into the website and confirmed that I would ac-
www.GatewaytoCanyonCountry.com 11

cept the permit. The next
step was attending the mandatory
orientation meeting
the following morning in
Page.
There were two other
groups at the orientation: A
30-something couple from
Prescott who had been trying
for a Wave permit for
four years, and four women
from North Carolina,
who mentioned that, coming
from sea level, they could
already feel the effects of
Page’s 4,500-foot elevation
while walking around town.
The orientation, led by a
knowledgeable staff member
at the Page Lake Powell
Hub Visitor Center, offered
safety advice for walking
in the desert (carry 1
gallon of water per person,
eat salty snacks, wear sunscreen),
rules for hiking in
the permit area (groups must
stay together, walking sticks
must be equipped with rubber
tips to avoid damaging
the rocks), and directions for
the 3.2-mile hike from Wire
Pass Trailhead to The Wave,
since there is no marked
trail through Coyote Buttes
North. Hikers are given a
cue sheet with numbered directions
and photographs of
geological formations to use
as navigations aids.
Another bit of advice was
to get an early start by arriving
at the trailhead by
dawn, which at that time of
year was around 6:30 a.m.
But according to the weather
forecast, the temperature
wouldn’t rise much
above 80 degrees Fahrenheit
throughout the day. Being
residents of the Southwest,
my wife and I often hike in
hot weather, so we weren’t
too concerned about getting
a super-early start. We
took the time to make pancakes
for breakfast before
embarking on the hour-long
drive to the trailhead – west
on Highway 89 for 36 miles,
then south on unpaved,
dusty, bumpy House Rock
Road for 8.2 miles. We arrived
around 8 a.m. Utah
time, and there were already
five or six cars in the parking
lot, including the group
from North Carolina.
We took our time getting
started, making sure our water
bottles and snacks were
packed comfortably, applying
sunscreen and signing
the trail registry. As we
set out along Coyote Wash,
we were a few hundred feet
behind the North Carolinians,
but as we left the wash
after about half a mile and
started walking uphill, they
stopped to rest. My wife
and I paused to say hello
as we passed, and they said
they were starting to feel
the effects of the elevation
– around 5,000 feet at that
point. They would be fine,
though, just a little slower
than they had anticipated.
We would cross paths again
at The Wave later in the day.
The rainy spring in the
West had resulted in an
abundant desert wildflower
season, and although Coyote
Buttes North is not particularly
famous for its blooms,
we did spot small clusters
of reddish-orange Indian
paintbrush, purple larkspur,
and white and yellow
primrose. At the same time,
there hadn’t been much rain
or wind during the previous
two weeks, so the abundance
of footprints made it
easy to follow the unmarked
“trail” as we crossed the sandy
plain toward our next
navigation point, a small
saddle on a sandstone ridge
on the horizon.
Once across the ridge,
the terrain became rocky
and uneven, with no footprints
to follow. But we
could see distinct geological
formations in the distance
for which we could
aim. We saw no other hikers
across the miles in front of
us. The morning was sunny
and cool as we traversed the
landscape, the vast expanse
of Pariah-Vermillion Cliffs
Wilderness extending off to
the left and Coyote Buttes
rising sharply to our right.
Some of the slickrock formations
looked like melted
sherbet, others like jagged,
knife-edged extrusions from
the underworld. We skirted
rocks that looked like colossal,
scaled pinecones, and
walked over others that we
12 Gateway to Canyon Country

imagined could be the brains of petrified
giants. The colors occurred in countless
subtle variations of white, brown, yellow,
red and green.
There was plenty to see, but hiking
over the craggy, off-camber rocks also
required paying attention to where we
stepped. Anyone not accustomed to walking
on terrain other than smooth trails or
level sidewalks will find that they’re using
leg and foot muscles they don’t normally
use, which can make the hiking a
bit more challenging and fatiguing than
expected.
The most difficult part of the hike is the
last steep sand embankment just before
The Wave, which, with the loose, shifting
soil, can feel like a game of one step forward,
two steps back. Even when taken
slowly and patiently, it can be a leg-burning
aerobic workout.
At the top, just before entering The
Wave, we encountered the first hikers we
had seen since passing the North Carolina
www.GatewaytoCanyonCountry.com 13

group – a couple with a pair
of dogs who must have gotten
an early start and were
starting their trek back to the
trailhead. With their departure,
we had The Wave all to
ourselves.
As the name suggests,
the rock formation looks
like brilliantly striated, undulating
water frozen in
time. Standing in its center
was like being encased in a
womb of flowing color. We
stood there for a long time,
simply absorbing the atmosphere
and unexpected silence.
Then we leapt into
action, checking out angles
14 Gateway to Canyon Country
and sightlines, and positioning
ourselves for the obligatory
flurry of photographs
to post online and prove to
the world that we had been
there.
Our solitude lasted for
about 30 minutes before
the hikers behind us started
arriving, at which point
my wife and I headed deeper
into the wilderness. There
are several named geological
features beyond The
Wave for which hikers can
aim – The Second Wave,
Melody Arch, Top Rock
Arch, The Alcove among
them – but we didn’t have
any destination in mind other
than prolonging the hike
and enjoying the colors, formations
and views in every
direction. Spending at least
a few minutes exploring
the area beyond The Wave
is highly recommended for
those who have the time and
energy to spare. We spent
about two hours walking a
couple extra miles, taking
photographs and simply sitting
and basking in our surroundings.
By the time we headed
back through The Wave,
the North Carolina group
had arrived and were engaged
in their own photo-storm.
My wife volunteered
to take a group photo
for them, which they greatly
appreciated. We also met
a woman in her 60s – a fit
hiker from Kanab equipped
with rubber-tipped walking
sticks who was working as
a volunteer checking permits
and dispensing information
about the area.
As we prepared to head
back to our car, we encountered
the couple from
Prescott at the top of the
steep, sandy slope just outside
The Wave. They were
accompanied by their three
kids, all of whom had
paused to empty the sand
from their shoes. As we
started down, we said hello
to another couple who had
stopped for a rest halfway
up the steep slope. It’s not a
long climb, but it can knock
the wind out of those who
try to go up too quickly.
Now that we were oriented
to the area, on the
return trip my wife and I
wandered a bit from the
straight-and-narrow path
we had taken on the way
to The Wave, checking out
the expansive views to the
east and exploring some
side canyons to the west.
We got passed by the volunteer
from Kanab several
times – she was hiking
much faster than us, but
she stopped several times to
talk to groups that had started
their hike later in the day
and were still heading out
toward The Wave.
Meanwhile, the afternoon
temperature had crept
into the low 80s, but a cool,
moderate breeze kept the
air feeling just about perfect
for hiking. By the time we
got back to the car, we had
walked about 8 miles in 6.5
hours – four of that actually
moving, according to the
app I use to track my hikes,
and the remaining 2.5 standing
still and gawking at the
landscape.
On the drive back to
Page, I mulled the fact the
hiking to The Wave didn’t
mean I had lost the opportunity
to pedal my mountain
bike to Alstrom Point. I’ll be
56 for a whole year – plenty
of time to tackle the ride.

Page Is a Designated Wave Permit Location
By Steven Law
In March 2022, the
Bureau of Land Management
(BLM) ended
its in-person lottery
for Wave permits
and implemented a new lottery
system for recreationists
seeking daily hiking permits
to the world-famous hiking
destination. The change was
a big boost for Page tourism
and its economy.
Under the old method, the
BLM gave out permits online
for 20 hikers per day
four months in advance, and
they gave out four more permits
to recreationists in-person
the day before the permit-use
day. Each in-person
permit could have from one
to 10 people listed on it. The
old system required hikers to
apply in person at the BLM’s
Kanab Field Office every
morning to apply for the permit,
and every morning at 9
a.m., the BLM agents would
draw four permit numbers
from the hopper.
Under the updated system,
hikers no longer have to apply
in-person at the Kanab
Field Office for daily permits.
They are now able to apply
for daily permits from their
cell phone or tablet, as long as
they are inside a certain geographic
area the BLM is calling
a “mobile geofence.” The
mobile geofence system is
hosted by Recreation.gov.
The geofence area includes
Page, Greenhaven, Marble
Canyon, Vermilion Cliffs, Jacob
Lake, White Sage, Fredonia,
Mocassin, Big Water,
Paria, Johnson Canyon,
Kanab, Mt. Carmel, Orderville,
Glendale and East Zion.
Wave applicants need to
be inside the geofence perimeter
when they apply for the
permit, but once they’ve entered
the lottery, they’re then
free to roam outside of it, and
they’ll be able to receive notifications
if their permit application
was successful.
Those who win a Wave
permit are still required to
pick up their permit in person
at a BLM-designated
location in Kanab or Page,
where they will also receive
an orientation, maps and
safety guidelines.
The idea behind the
geofence lottery system is
to allow area visitors vying
for a Wave permit more
freedom in their travel
plans while remaining close
enough to do the hike if their
permit number is drawn.
As part of the permit system,
Page is one of two locations
where permit winners
go to pick up their permits.
Page had been trying to
get designated a Wave permit
location since 2019,
when the Chamber Page
Lake Powell opened The
Hub, said Judy Franz, executive
director for the chamber.
“When we started The
Hub, that was one of our
scopes of work,” she said,
“and I think it’s going to be
great for the city, our businesses
and our economy.
Everybody wants to do the
Wave. It’s nationally known.
It’s one of the wonders of the
world. People would stay in
Kanab day after day trying to
win the Wave lottery.”
Under the old system, the
Kanab Field Office would
draw the permits at 9 a.m.
The people who didn’t win
a Wave permit would then
have a full free day ahead
of them and would most often
spend the day doing other
area tours and activities.
“I know a lot of those people
would come to Page for
the day to visit Antelope Canyon,
Horseshoe Bend or Lake
Powell, but they’d often return
to Kanab for the night
to be there for the next day’s
Wave drawing,” Franz said.
“But now they’ll be able to
spend the night here. That
means staying in our hotels
and eating in our restaurants.
And if they get a permit and
want a guide, we have several
guide companies operating
here who can take them.
We’re hoping people will
want to stay in Page because
there’s so many things to do.”
The updated permitting
system is also great for Page
locals, Franz said.
“Our locals will be able to
apply online, every day if they
want to, and if they win a permit,
they’ll be able to pick it
up right here,” she said.
Now acting as a Wave permit
pickup site, The Hub is
open seven days a week, 8
a.m. to 5 p.m., with the exception
of Thanksgiving, Christmas
and New Year’s Day.
The updated system works
like this: If you apply for the
permit on Thursday, for example,
you will be notified
that evening if you’ve won.
If you win, you will have to
pick up your permit the following
morning, Friday, and
do the hike to the Wave the
next day, Saturday.
Winners can pick up their
permit in Kanab or in Page at
The Hub. When picking up
their permits, hikers are also
required to do an orientation.
The orientation is at 8:30
a.m. sharp. If permit winners
miss the orientation, they forfeit
their permits. During the
orientation, hikers will watch
a 30-minute slide show that
describes what they should
expect during their trip to the
Wave. They’ll also receive
maps and safety information.
“We can answer any other
questions they may have,”
Franz said.
The BLM said the updated
system is a win-win for local
businesses and travelers.
“Additional gateway communities
will benefit economically
as the new system will
expand the permit application
area and will provide visitors
with additional options
to pick-up permits and enjoy
overnight stays for the next
day’s trip in several communities,”
said Paria River district
manager Harry Barber.
www.GatewaytoCanyonCountry.com 15

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Wahweap
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Lone Rock Beach/
Fee Camping
State Line Launch
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In-The-
Rock
Navajo Canyon
Colorado
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of
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AZ
Antelope
Point
Marina &
Launch
Ramp
West Canyon
Rainbow Bridge
National
Monument
S
Wahweap Marina
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16 Gateway to Canyon Country

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www.GatewaytoCanyonCountry.com 17

18 Gateway to Canyon Country

www.GatewaytoCanyonCountry.com 19

New Discoveries on Display at
Powell Museum and Archives
The skull of this four-horned
Diabloceratops eatoni (Eaton’s
Devil Horn Face) was found
in Grand Staircase-Escalante
National Monument.
20 Gateway to Canyon Country
Story and Photos
by Bob Hembree
Visitors to Page are in
for a treat this year. They
can be among the first to
see fossils of newly discovered
dinosaur species.
The Powell Museum and
Archives exhibit features
specimens excavated near
Page.
The displays give visitors
a glimpse of what local
wildlife was like over 70
million years ago.
Amanda Boston is the
education and outreach director
for Glen Canyon
Conservancy, which manages
the museum.
“This is the first time
they’re ever being seen
publicly,” Boston said. “All
of these were pulled from
the Grand Staircase-Escalante
National Monument
up on the Kaiparowits Plateau.
It’s representative of
some of the most diverse
fossil finds in North America.”
Displays in the museum’s
Kaiparowits Fossil
exhibit are mix of cast
models, original fossils and
a mummy. Well-preserved,
highly detailed fossils are
known as dinosaur mummies.
Referring to the juvenile
Gryposaurus hadrosaur
mummy encased in glass,
Boston said, “What’s really
neat about this one is that
it is so well preserved, you

can actually see skin impressions.
And they’re finding
out that’s actually more
common than previously
thought, but more often
than not, when paleontologists
were in the process of
removing these bones from
the Earth, in the past, those
skin impressions could get
overlooked and dug up and
destroyed in the removal
process. And so it’s very
unique to get those skin impressions,
but it is becoming
more common, as paleontologists
are finding
out that that’s something to
look for.”
Museum guide Paul
Campbell said hadrosaurs
were the cattle of their era
and plentiful, likely grazing
in herds. Gryposaurus
is a specific breed of hadrosaur,
like a Hereford is specific
breed of modern cattle.
Bureau of Land Management
(BLM) paleontologists
Dr. Alan Titus and
Katja Knoll delivered the
baby hadrosaur mummy to
the museum, along with a
ceratopsian pelvis and ribcage.
They drove from
BLM’s paleo lab in Kanab,
Utah, to the museum Aug.
10, 2023. It took nearly four
years to prepare the fossils
for display.
According to BLM, “Dr.
Titus, BLM Utah Paria River
District Paleontologist,
and Dr. Scott Sampson,
who is popularly known as
‘Dr. Scott the Paleontologist’
from the PBS show
Dinosaur Train, discovered
the baby hadrosaur.”
“It is very satisfying for
me to see these fossils put
on display and to share the
story of their scientific significance
for the public to
appreciate,” Titus said. “In
this case, the ceratopsian
shows injuries on its ribs
that probably resulted from
RIGHT: This ceratopsian pelvis and ribcage fossil was found on the
Kaiparowits Plataea in Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument.
BELOW: The 81.5-million-year-old Lythronax argestes (Southern King of
Gore) is the oldest large tyrannosaur known in North America.
www.GatewaytoCanyonCountry.com 21

This replica of Powell’s wooden boat, the Emma Dean, was used in 1960 movie “Ten Who Dared.”
intra-species roughhousing, so it gives
us important insight into these animals’
behavior. The baby hadrosaur
preserves delicate details of soft tissue,
such as skin and muscles, providing
important information about these
animals’ anatomy.”
The museum’s ceratopsian display
is good example of the care and precautions
taken to excavate fossils.
“You can see how much goes into
having to remove it from the ground,”
Boston said. “So they have to go in
and dig underneath it to a point so
that they can start forming this cast
around it. And that jacket helps them
get it up and out of the ground, where
they can take it to the lab, and they
can do the more finite detail of revealing
the fossil. But if you’re having
to do all of this digging under, of
course, you can’t really see what’s under
it, and you could unwittingly re-
22 Gateway to Canyon Country
move some parts of that otherwise
would be very valuable information.
There’s a good deal of it that also has
to be removed above and further back
from it. There’s a whole shelf of land
that they usually have to take out from
these fossils to make sure that there’s
not a landslide that destroys the fossil
mid dig.”
Boston said her favorite dinosaur is
the Diabloceratops eatoni, or Eaton’s
Devil Horn Face, named after Jeffrey
Eaton, a paleontologist at Weber State
University. Diabloceratops is a mishmash
of Spanish and Latinized Greek
meaning devil with horned face.
“Diabloceratops is just one of many
types of ceratopsians, and what makes
the Diabloceratops different than your
standard triceratops is it’s part of a
class of Ceratopians that have four
horns instead of three,” Boston said.
In addition to the new dinosaur exhibit,
visitors can learn about the extraordinary
history of Page. Exhibits
include a collection of large aerial
images from 1960 through 1997.
The panels begin with the Glen Canyon
Bridge, then the dam, then Page’s
growth through the years.
“Construction of the bridge was
1957, 1958. It was completed in January
1959,” Campbell said. “Construction
of the dam was 1960 through
1963. It was completed in June of
’63.”
One of the most striking museum
exhibits is the huge 3D Topographic
Relief Map of Glen Canyon National
Recreation Area. Robert S. Miller
hand-carved and painted Isocyanate
foam representing 6,400,000 acres.
Using dental tools, he spent 1,952
hours on the carving alone. Painting
the details with 78 shades of color
took 698 hours. He used topograph-

ic maps, aerial photographs
along with rock and sand
samples from 38 different
locations for reference.
In 1967, Miller was paid
$24,000 for the project. He
built the scale model in seven
sections then assembled
it at its original home, the
Carl Hayden Visitor Center
at Glen Canyon Dam.
Other exhibits include
the Native American history
of Manson Mesa before
the dam and before Page
was built on top of it.
Renowned photographer
and scientist Gary Ladd designed
the geology display
and information panels. The
Canyon Club sponsored the
Geology of the Grand Staircase-Escalante
National
Monument wall.
There’s also a section
devoted to river exploration
and pioneering commercial
ventures. Aramark
sponsored the River Running
displays. Visitors can
see one of Norman Nevill’s
original expedition boats,
Mexican Hat II.
Of course, a large part of
the museum is dedicated to
its namesake, John Wesley
Powell, the first person to
map the region. In addition
to paintings and expedition
gear, the Powell exhibit include
photos taken during
his 1871-1872 river expedition.
The second expedition
was better organized
and equipped than the first
trip in 1869. The later trip’s
crew included artists, wetplate
photographers and scientists.
A replica of Major
Powell’s wooden boat, the
Emma Dean, is displayed
outside. The boat was used
in “Ten Who Dared,” a
1960 movie based on the
1869 expedition.
There are also outside
displays visitors can see any
time. Thanks to an Arizona
Humanities grant funded
by the National Endowment
for the Humanities, the museum
now has information
panels on the grounds for
viewing 24/7. There’s also
a large sandstone casting of
original dinosaur tracks, a
three-toed Saurischian.
Powell Museum and Archives
is a nonprofit organization
and relies on donations
to operate. Visit
https://www.canyonconservancy.org/museum
for
more information. For large
group tour information, call
Retail Operations Manager
Caitlyn Moore at 928-660-
7888.
Powell Museum and Archives,
located at 12 N.
Lake Powell Blvd. in Page,
Arizona, is open daily 9
a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission is
$12 for adults, $10 for military
and seniors 62 and older,
$5 for students, and free
for children 0-9 and for local
residents.
RIGHT: Powell Expedition miniatures
are on display in the John Wesley
Powell wing of the museum.
BELOW LEFT: The Manson Mesa
History exhibit teaches visitors
about Native American life on the
mesa before the Glen Canyon Dam
was built in the 1960s..
BELOW RIGHT: A casting of threetoed
Saurischian therapod tracks
is located outside the museum for
after-hour visitors.
www.GatewaytoCanyonCountry.com 23

Explore
Lake Powell
WITH US
OUR SERVICES
Kayak & Paddleboard Tours
into Antelope Canyon
Private Tours
Kayak & Paddleboard Rentals
Inflatable SUP Rentals
Gift Shop
ABOUT US
We are a family-owned and operated
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outfitter located in downtown Page, AZ
just minutes from Lake Powell. Our Page,
Arizona kayaking and paddleboarding
tours into Antelope Canyon are guided by
PSUPA, ACA, First Aid and CPR certified
guides. We also offer the highest quality
paddleboard and kayak rentals for daily
or multi-day use on Lake Powell.
CHECK US OUT!
CALL 928-645-4017
www.lakepowellpaddleboards.com
24 Gateway to Canyon Country

www.GatewaytoCanyonCountry.com 25

Let The Hub Expand Your Page/Lake Powell Experience
Story and Photos By Steven Law
Have you ever experienced Traveler’s
Remorse? It’s the unpleasant
knowledge when you return from a
trip only to discover you missed some
of the area’s most popular and interesting
attractions. It’s a frustrating feeling
– knowing you were right there,
and you had the time to do it, but you
didn’t learn about it until you returned
from your trip.
There is so much to do in and
around Page that trying to choose
among the many recreational, dining
and adventure options can start to feel
overwhelming. If you’re one of the
millions of tourists visiting Page this
year, and you’d like some help maximizing
your visit to beautiful Page and
Lake Powell, the Hub Tourist Information
Center can help. And you won’t
return home with Traveler’s Remorse.
Think of the Hub as Page’s tourist
concierge.
The Hub is a one-stop shop connecting
Page’s visitors with the many
activities, hotels, restaurants and other
amenities the area has to offer. And
the Hub has the connections, the local
knowledge and experience to make it
happen.
The Hub books trips for 74% of
the tour companies that operate out of
26 Gateway to Canyon Country
Page. The Page area offers amazing
hiking, cycling and UTV trails. Looking
for something on the water? They
can point you toward river rafting, paddleboarding,
kayaking, houseboating,
water skiing and jet skiing. Page also
offers scenic helicopter and airplane
flights that leave from Page Municipal
Airport every day.
“Whatever you’re looking to do, we
can help you find it,” said Judy Franz,
executive director for the Chamber
Page/Lake Powell. “We offer a whole
host of options from easy to difficult,
guided or self-guided, land-based, water-based
or air-based. If you want to
do a self-guided trip, we can provide
you with the maps and information
about how to get there and what gear
you’ll need. If you want to do a guided
trip, we can connect you with the
guides.”
For those visitors who have secured
a Wave permit, The Hub offers orientation
trips every morning, which also
includes up-to-the-minute weather and
road conditions.
The Hub can also provide visitors
with restaurant guides and the menus,
hotel and motel guides, and a list of
events happening around town.
The Hub also offers maps and
books, local art – including photos,
paintings, pottery and hand-crafted
jewelry – and, most importantly, a
kind, knowledgeable staff.
“We are here for anyone who comes
in and wants to know what else they
can do while visiting Page,” Franz
said. “Come in. We have everything
you need for your visit to Page. We’re
going to take care of you.”
The Hub Tourist Information Center
is located at 48 S. Lake Powell
Blvd., Page, Arizona. Visit online at
pagelakepowellhub.com, call 928-608-
5749 or 928-612-2020, or email info@
pagelakepowellhub.com or reservations@pagelakepowellhub.com.
Office
hours are Monday through Saturday 8
a.m. to 4 p.m. and Sunday 8-10 a.m.

WELCOME TO THE
PAGE – LAKE POWELL
HUB
Amazing Tours And Fun Adventures
Are Waiting For You. Book Your Tours
Through Us!
Come in for information about the city of
Page, Lake Powell, Glen Canyon, and the
center of Canyon Country. Let The Page-
Lake Powell HUB book all your tours in Page
and surrounding areas.
48 S. Lake Powell Blvd., Page, AZ 86040
Phone: 928-608-5749 or 928-612-2020
Text Message: 928-640-7240
Email:
info@pagelakepowellhub.com or
reservations@pagelakepowellhub.com
Book Your
Tour
Follow us on
Social Media
Scan for Hub
Website
www.GatewaytoCanyonCountry.com Page-Lake Powell Chamber | 9 27

Page doubles its mountain
bike trail system
Story and photos by Douglas Long
Mountain bikers travel from all over the United States,
and even the world, to ride the famous trails in Moab, Utah,
and Sedona, Arizona.
About halfway in between these two world-renowned cycling
destinations lies Page, Arizona. The small city, located
near Lake Powell, has not been well known for its mountain
biking opportunities, but that began to change in July
2023 with the inauguration of the new Red Mesa Rim Trail
system. Now, Page is set to become a popular stopover for
mountain bikers who come to the desert Southwest for offroad
cycling adventures.
For many years, hikers and mountain bikers who visit
or who live in Page have enjoyed the Rimview Trail,
which circumnavigates the city in a scenic 10-mile loop.
The new Red Mesa Rim Trail, whose trailhead is located
at 2155 Coppermine Road, adds another 10.8 miles of singletrack
designed for hiking and mountain biking. For cyclists,
different sections are rated green (beginner), blue (intermediate)
or black (advanced). Most of the beginner and
intermediate sections are on the top of Red Mesa. Riding
the black-diamond sections involves dropping down into the
beautiful slickrock terrain east of the mesa.
28 Gateway to Canyon Country

The conception of Red Mesa Rim Trail dates back four
years when a couple of local entrepreneurs who were starting
an e-bike business took Lynn Cormier – director of
community engagement for the City of Page – for a bike
ride on Red Mesa.
“I remember thinking, ‘Wow, this is really cool up
here,’” Cormier said. She started looking into grants to fund
the design of a nonmotorized trail on the mesa, but like
many projects, it was put on hold when the COVID pandemic
began sweeping across the globe in early 2020.
Then, 18 months ago, as the pandemic waned, she got the
green light to proceed and succeeded in getting a $149,250
nonmotorized recreational trail grant through Arizona State
Parks and Trails.
The original idea was to build an easy 5-mile loop on the
top of the mesa, but when the trail builder that the city hired
– Doug Hansen, president of Idaho-based Cuddy Mountain
Trail Company – saw the extensive slickrock terrain to the
east of the high ground, he suggested adding a few miles of
black-diamond terrain that would attract serious mountain
bikers to Page.
“[Hansen] was instrumental in his vision and knowing
what bicyclists want – seeing the red rock and saying, ‘Man,
people at this level love rock and you’ve got rock, so let’s
make the most of it,’” Cormier said.
Hansen called in a black-diamond bicycle specialist from
Hwy 98
Red Mesa Rim Trail
Coppermine Rd / Navajo Route 20
Red Mesa Loop
Red Mesa Loop
Fin Rock Ledge
Eagle Rock
Loop
Easy Rider Trail
Eastern Ledge
Trail Rules:
Hiking and Biking Only
No Motorized Vehicles on Trail
Stay on Marked Trails
Know your Limits on all Trails
Watch for Snakes & Desert Critters
Pack out all Trash to Parking Lot Bins
No Overnight Camping or Parking
Bring Plenty of Water
No Glass Containers Allowed
Please Clean up After your Pets
Keep your Pet on a Leash
Red Mesa Loop
Red Mesa Loop
Mushroom Rock Loop
Green Diamond Trails
(Easy)
Blue Diamond Trails
(Moderate)
Black Diamond Trails
(Difficult)
Trail Head Access Rd
XStart
XStart
Red Mesa Loop
This project was financed, in part by a grant from
the Federal Recreation Trails Program (RTP)
administered by Arizona State Parks and Trails.
www.GatewaytoCanyonCountry.com 29

Idaho with whom he had worked in
the past, and they spent a week mapping
out how the whole biking scenario
would work. The black-diamond
sections more than doubled the trail’s
length from the original 5 miles to
nearly 11 miles.
“When they were done, I was blown
away at how amazing of a trail system
that we now have,” Cormier said. “I’m
absolutely ecstatic with how it turned
out.”
Hansen, whose experience as a trail
builder dates back 40 years and spans
locations throughout the United States,
first visited Page in November 2022,
just prior to the time Cuddy Mountain
Trail Company bid on the project.
Before then, Cormier had already
been consulting with Hansen over the
phone to get the information she needed
to write the grant proposal, including
how much it would cost to develop
and build the trail system. Once the
City of Page was awarded the grant,
Hansen decided to bid on the project.
During that first trip to Page, Hansen
walked about 1 mile of the proposed
trail with Cormier.
“It was so unique compared to anything
I’ve done in the last 40 years.
I’ve probably done some kind of work
30 Gateway to Canyon Country
on a thousand miles of trail, and I said
to myself, ‘I just want to do this trail
because it’s different than anything
I’ve ever done,’” Hansen said.
What was “unique” was the amount
of slickrock.
“You just don’t see that opportunity
very often. It’s something that mountain
bikers are just craving, something
that’s challenging, something that’s
different,” Hansen said.
“There’s so many things you can do
with rock that you can’t do with dirt
because it doesn’t erode and it provides
a unique experience for mountain bikers
and a more challenging ride that is
environmentally friendly, too, because
they don’t leave any marks, there’s no
big erosion. People will travel for this,
I guarantee it.”
Hansen added that he has a nephew
who has been a serious mountain biker
his whole life who lives in Salt Lake
City, Utah, but who occasionally travels
to Page – nearly 400 miles away –
for his work as an attorney for the National
Park Service.
“He came down when we were just
getting started [on the trail project] and
he looked at what we were doing. He
said, ‘I can guarantee people will come
from Salt Lake to ride this and spend
the weekend,’” Hansen said.
Indeed, feedback from Page-based
mountain bikers who have ridden Red
Mesa Rim Trail has been exceedingly
enthusiastic and positive.
“The locals who have gone out there
have said, ‘Wow, these are trails that
we spend three hours driving to, and
now they’re in our backyard. This is
incredible,’” Cormier said.
One of those cyclists is Jerod Viers,
who said the Red Mesa Rim Trail is a
great improvement for recreation in the
City of Page.

“Riders of all skill levels will have
fun here, with scenic easy riding on
the mesa and challenging rock and
slickrock below the rim,” he said.
“I love riding the more technical
trails. Normally, riding similar trails
would require a [two-hour] drive to
the St. George or Flagstaff areas, but
now we have some right in our backyard.
The variety at Red Mesa, along
with the Rimview Trail, makes Page
an excellent stopping point for riders
visiting trails in the Grand Circle.”
Cormier said the new trail system
has opened a whole new door to the
biking and hiking communities.
“People who hike have access to
it, but I really think those people who
are bicyclists will be blown away
not only by the levels of the different
trails, but also by seeing the beauty of
our landscape,” she said.
“I would really like to see all these
people who are driving through Page
with bikes on the back [of their vehicles]
stop and spend a whole day just
playing out there. My desire is to put
Page on the map in regard to that elevated
level of bicycling experience. I
think the Red Mesa Rim Trail might
be the doors that make that happen.”
Trail builder Doug Hansen stressed
that Cormier deserves a lot of credit
for Red Mesa Rim Trail because
she was the one who took the time to
make it happen.
“Lynn and the city really need to
be commended for what they’ve done
because it took a lot of time and effort,”
he said.
“Not only that, but they were willing
to not just have preconceived ideas
of what was going to happen but to listen
to mountain bikers in the community,
leave their ego at the door and
say, ‘These are the guys that really
know how to do this, so we’re going to
do what they say.’ It’s not that way all
the time. The citizens of Page should
know that this is an amazing project
that has happened because their civil
servants did a good job.”
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www.GatewaytoCanyonCountry.com 31

Page AZ Balloon
Regatta & Street Fair
Every year on the first weekend in November,
the skies over Page, Arizona,
are filled with more than 60 colorful
hot-air balloons during the city’s premier
event: the Page AZ Balloon Regatta & Street
Fair. Weather permitting, balloons take flight
each morning from Thursday through Sunday.
On Saturday evening, more than 20 balloons
participating in the popular Balloon
Glow light up a stretch of Lake Powell Boulevard
in downtown Page. On Friday and Saturday,
following the morning balloon launches,
downtown Page is also the site of a street fair
hosted by the Page Chamber of Commerce.
The fair features food, craft and retail vendors,
bounce houses and children’s activities,
a beer garden, live music and Navajo cultural
shows. The 2023 regatta takes place Nov. 2-5.
Don’t miss your chance to visit Page during
this year’s awe-inspiring event.
32 Gateway to Canyon Country

LIKE AND FOLLOW US ON
816 Coppermine Rd, Page AZ | 928-583-9847
www.bitahniboutique.com
www.GatewaytoCanyonCountry.com 33

Fresh Homestyle Cooking
& Live Music Every Night
679 S. Lake Powell Blvd.
Page, AZ. 86040
Phone: 928-645-2519
Sit back and relax with our Boat Chartering
Experience! This is a private tour, where
YOU call the shots. Unlike commercial
tours, you’re in control to choose your
favorite destinations. Explore the jaw
dropping sites on the water, in slot
canyons by foot, get your toes in the sand,
and take a dip in the lake!
928-307-7144
Our side-by-sides are the perfect way
to tour the alluring sites of Horseshoe
Bend, Antelope Canyon, and more. These
UTVs are smooth, comfortable, and
ready to take on any off-road adventure
you’re ready for!
34 Gateway to Canyon Country
Our Shuttle service offers a more leisurelike
tour, air conditioned and comfortable
for the whole family. Stretching 25 miles
from Page is the spectacular Toadstools
hike, exploring the many alcoves
and hoodoos surrounding the vast
beauty of the desert.
Swing by our office location inside
Kelly’s Sugar House for all your travel
and lake apparel and fun toys. At the end
of the tour or trip stop back for some
sweet treats and old-fashioned delights.
We look forward to being your guides!!!

www.GatewaytoCanyonCountry.com 35

36 Gateway to Canyon Country