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2024 State of the Industry Report

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This can be compared to US data showing that <strong>the</strong><br />

GFC devastated <strong>the</strong> US jewellery industry. A census by<br />

<strong>the</strong> Jewelers Board <strong>of</strong> Trade (JBT) - a not-for-pr<strong>of</strong>it,<br />

member-owned association - found that “<strong>the</strong> number<br />

<strong>of</strong> jewellery doors which closed in 2008 is estimated to<br />

be around 1,500, though some believe it was closer to<br />

2,000.”<br />

The 2010 SOIR stressed ‘retirement’ was ano<strong>the</strong>r<br />

common reason for independent jewellery store<br />

closures. Small, family businesses have always<br />

dominated jewellery retailing, and <strong>the</strong> post-war baby<br />

boomers had caused a spiral in store closures.<br />

Jeweller reported 13 years ago that if no family<br />

member is willing to take over, <strong>the</strong> only o<strong>the</strong>r option<br />

is to close <strong>the</strong> business. Succession planning is<br />

notoriously difficult for retailers.<br />

In addition, it’s challenging to sell a jewellery business<br />

as it is capital intensive – meaning a significant<br />

investment in stock and fit-out - and requires a higher<br />

degree <strong>of</strong> expertise than many o<strong>the</strong>r retail categories.<br />

Jewellery knowledge is <strong>the</strong> most basic requirement<br />

- and gemmology, jewellery designing, and<br />

manufacturing skills are desirable.<br />

Selling <strong>the</strong> business is always an option, but it is not<br />

easily sold if pr<strong>of</strong>itability is marginal. And again, this is<br />

a trend in <strong>the</strong> Western world, supported by US data.<br />

The JBT data dates to 1987, and in 2009, it was<br />

reported that every year – except three years in<br />

<strong>the</strong> early 1990s – <strong>the</strong> number <strong>of</strong> US retail jewellery<br />

businesses had declined.<br />

Our 2010 study also noted, anecdotally at least, that<br />

recessions and difficult trading conditions tend to<br />

separate <strong>the</strong> ‘wheat from <strong>the</strong> chaff’.<br />

Unsuccessful small businesses will <strong>of</strong>ten use <strong>the</strong><br />

excuse <strong>of</strong> a ‘recession’ to save face when <strong>the</strong>y<br />

announce closure ra<strong>the</strong>r than taking responsibility<br />

for <strong>the</strong>ir business failings.<br />

That is, it’s easy to make money in good times, and<br />

if you own a business that is only marginally pr<strong>of</strong>itable<br />

Only 33 per cent <strong>of</strong> independent jewellery retailers<br />

report that <strong>the</strong>ir business is pr<strong>of</strong>itable today than it<br />

was before <strong>the</strong> pandemic.<br />

when difficult trading conditions arrive - as <strong>the</strong>y indeed<br />

will - a borderline business will not survive.<br />

Hold your horses<br />

Having established several reasons why independent<br />

jewellery stores would naturally decline in number, <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>2024</strong> study finds that <strong>the</strong>re are around 2,000 stores today.<br />

This is a loss <strong>of</strong> around 700, or 25 per cent, since 2010.<br />

Now, before anyone cries wolf, hold your horses!<br />

This reduction needs fur<strong>the</strong>r clarification because<br />

some <strong>of</strong> it can be attributed to Jeweller’s change in <strong>the</strong><br />

definition or classification <strong>of</strong> a ‘jewellery store’ caused<br />

by enormous structural shifts in <strong>the</strong> industry over <strong>the</strong><br />

past decade.<br />

The 2010 study was an attempt to measure <strong>the</strong><br />

number <strong>of</strong> stores that sell jewellery to consumers,<br />

Custom made and bespoke jewellery has become<br />

an increasingly important category for Australia's<br />

independent jewellery retailers in <strong>the</strong> past decade.<br />

and in doing so, <strong>the</strong>re was a need to define different<br />

business archetypes.<br />

These included fine and fashion jewellery, chain<br />

stores, and stores classified as brand-only and/or<br />

flagship locations. To measure anything, it must first<br />

be defined.<br />

In 2010, <strong>the</strong> definition <strong>of</strong> a jewellery retailer included<br />

businesses that were not ‘traditional stores’. For<br />

example, our data included jewellers and designers<br />

who operated from what we defined as ‘upstairs<br />

premises’ or studios and workshops.<br />

Many, if not most, <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se businesses legitimately deal<br />

with <strong>the</strong> public as customers and specialise in niche<br />

categories such as engagement, bridal jewellery, and<br />

bespoke design.<br />

Most operated from CBD locations in capital cities and<br />

were (and still are) located in <strong>the</strong> ‘jewellery buildings’<br />

such as <strong>the</strong> Century and Manchester buildings in<br />

Melbourne and <strong>the</strong> Dymocks and Trust buildings in<br />

Sydney, to name just a few.<br />

O<strong>the</strong>r capital cities have similar buildings, harking<br />

back to a period when jewellers and suppliers<br />

congregated in one location for convenience and<br />

security. A jeweller could source and purchase<br />

materials, such as diamonds and gemstones, by<br />

visiting a supplier on ano<strong>the</strong>r floor – without <strong>the</strong><br />

need to leave <strong>the</strong> building.<br />

These businesses were identified as ‘Retailer - No<br />

storefront’ and included in <strong>the</strong> store counts.<br />

Changing times<br />

CHART 2:<br />

2023 INDEPENDENTS BY STATE<br />

<strong>State</strong> # %<br />

NSW 754 37.51%<br />

VIC 499 24.83%<br />

QLD 329 16.37%<br />

WA 187 9.30%<br />

SA 136 6.77%<br />

TAS 61 3.03%<br />

ACT 30 1.49%<br />

NT 14 0.70%<br />

TOTAL 2,010 100%<br />

Chart compares independent jewellery stores<br />

state-by-state and <strong>the</strong> percentage <strong>the</strong>se stores<br />

represent within Australia's total count.<br />

While it was deemed appropriate to include <strong>the</strong>se<br />

businesses in <strong>the</strong> 2010 store counts, Jeweller has<br />

decided to exclude <strong>the</strong>m in <strong>the</strong> latest study due to<br />

changes in <strong>the</strong> industry, some <strong>of</strong> which are COVIDrelated.<br />

For example, consider <strong>the</strong> distinction between a<br />

‘storefront retailer’ on <strong>the</strong> high street and one that<br />

operated without a storefront was a little blurred in<br />

2010. In that case, you must consider what <strong>the</strong> internet<br />

has done to that blurred line 13 years later.<br />

There are o<strong>the</strong>r reasons for redefining a jewellery store<br />

- explained below - and to maintain a more accurate<br />

reading on <strong>the</strong> industry, it is more appropriate to<br />

measure ‘traditional retail stores’, which Jeweller now<br />

28

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