16 TRENDS Summer is lovely, but I have <strong>to</strong> confess <strong>to</strong> a sense of relief when it’s over – even if <strong>the</strong>re’s a last minute heat wave. Most of all, I enjoy seeing shop windows s<strong>to</strong>cked with <strong>the</strong> new season’s merch<strong>and</strong>ise after <strong>the</strong> slipshod summer sales displays. September, <strong>to</strong>o, is crowded with shows <strong>to</strong> visit – IJL, Top Drawer, Origin, Prêt à Porter Paris, London Fashion Week, <strong>and</strong> at <strong>the</strong> end of <strong>the</strong> month, Goldsmiths’ Fair – with all <strong>the</strong> excitement of spotting new talent <strong>and</strong> outst<strong>and</strong>ing collections <strong>for</strong> 2012. But let’s stick with this season <strong>and</strong> what’s in s<strong>to</strong>re. In fashion nowadays <strong>the</strong>re is no single trend, but this autumn <strong>the</strong>re are several desirable <strong>and</strong> wearable style statements <strong>to</strong> be seen. There’s <strong>the</strong> dominatrix, Miss Whiplash look; <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>mboy, sharply tailored look; traditional British tweedy country style; sleek 40s or 50s glamour; or a 70s bohemian look. Add earthy <strong>to</strong>nes of mustard, red <strong>and</strong> olive, lots of lace, lamé <strong>and</strong> defined waists, <strong>and</strong> you get <strong>the</strong> picture. More importantly, what are <strong>the</strong> trends in jewellery buying? I asked Nicholas James, a leading fine contemporary jewellery maker <strong>and</strong> retailer with a fashionable shop in Hat<strong>to</strong>n Garden, <strong>for</strong> his opinion. I wondered whe<strong>the</strong>r his strikingly modern white shop front is daunting <strong>to</strong> cus<strong>to</strong>mers in a street that is largely un<strong>to</strong>uched by new design influences. “Not at all – people are tired of seeing <strong>the</strong> same things, <strong>and</strong> get a buzz from something different, although classic pieces still sell well. We sell only platinum, gold <strong>and</strong> also palladium <strong>for</strong> men’s rings. White gold is currently selling well, as platinum is so expensive. Rose gold <strong>and</strong> brown diamonds are having a real surge, as are coloured s<strong>to</strong>nes in general – blue sapphires in particular – <strong>and</strong> cocktail rings are popular. Cus<strong>to</strong>mers making bespoke <strong>and</strong> wedding purchases like <strong>to</strong> take <strong>the</strong>ir time, <strong>and</strong> like <strong>to</strong> personalise a piece, taking part in <strong>the</strong> design, even if it’s only opting <strong>for</strong> a tiny diamond on <strong>the</strong> inside shank of a ring,” he explained. (www.nicholasjames.com) Jaana Jatyri is <strong>the</strong> founder of trend <strong>for</strong>ecasting agency Trends<strong>to</strong>p, <strong>and</strong> predicts key trends <strong>for</strong> autumn/winter 2011/12 <strong>to</strong> include multi-cultural ethnic elements, Celine- September style With <strong>the</strong> autumn/winter season approaching, <strong>and</strong> a plethora of jewellery <strong>and</strong> fashion events waiting <strong>to</strong> open <strong>the</strong>ir doors this month, Janet Fitch delivers some essential background trend in<strong>for</strong>mation inspired new minimalism, <strong>and</strong> homespun rustic warmth. “The consumer is becoming increasingly savvy <strong>and</strong> more educated about trends, <strong>and</strong>, as a result, wants <strong>to</strong> buy <strong>the</strong> latest looks as soon as <strong>the</strong>y read about <strong>the</strong>m. In order <strong>to</strong> stay a step ahead of this accelerating trend cycle, retailers <strong>and</strong> br<strong>and</strong>s have <strong>to</strong> become smarter <strong>and</strong> faster at finding those trends.” Good quality trend in<strong>for</strong>mation is vital in <strong>to</strong>day’s <strong>market</strong>, <strong>and</strong> you can visit <strong>the</strong> agency’s website on a free Trends<strong>to</strong>p TrendTracker app <strong>for</strong> iPhone, iPad, BlackBerry <strong>and</strong> Android phones. (www.trends<strong>to</strong>p.com) One name <strong>to</strong> watch out <strong>for</strong> is Alice Menter, launching at IJL, who trans<strong>for</strong>ms materials like nuts, washers <strong>and</strong> zips with gold or <strong>silver</strong> plating, multi chains, suede <strong>and</strong> semi-precious s<strong>to</strong>nes <strong>and</strong> beads <strong>to</strong> create jewellery that is industrial but looks glamorous <strong>and</strong> feminine <strong>and</strong> bang on trend. (www.alicementer.co.uk) Meanwhile, Mahtab Hanna’s spectacular catwalk creations have aroused great interest, <strong>and</strong> she has now produced a flattering <strong>and</strong> wearable range that is distinctively but subtly influenced by Middle Eastern politics, culture, architecture <strong>and</strong> nature. Black <strong>and</strong> white diamonds, gold <strong>and</strong> <strong>silver</strong> make <strong>the</strong> Sensory collection an elegant fusion of high fashion <strong>and</strong> detailed craftsmanship. (www.mahtab.co.uk) I plan <strong>to</strong> discover <strong>the</strong> world of jewellery in western Australia, at <strong>the</strong> exhibition at Lesley Craze Gallery in Clerkenwell, London, entitled ‘Cinderella’s S<strong>to</strong>ries: Contemporary Jewellery from Western Australia’ <strong>and</strong> showing <strong>the</strong> work of seven contemporary Australian designers. The exhibition, from 9 September <strong>to</strong> 14 Oc<strong>to</strong>ber, coincides with <strong>the</strong> visit of Dorothy Erickson <strong>to</strong> launch her book Gold <strong>and</strong> Silversmithing in Western Australia: A His<strong>to</strong>ry, in which all seven are featured, as well as <strong>the</strong> s<strong>to</strong>ry of jewellerymaking in this remote province, which was known as <strong>the</strong> Cinderella of <strong>the</strong> South until <strong>the</strong> discovery of fabulous quantities of gold in <strong>the</strong> 1880s. Dorothy Erickson will also be speaking <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Society of Jewellery His<strong>to</strong>rians – an event which non-members are welcome <strong>to</strong> attend – at <strong>the</strong> Society of Antiquaries, Burling<strong>to</strong>n House, Piccadilly, London W1J 0BE at 6pm on 27 September. (www.lesleycrazegallery.co.uk)
Alice Menter Lesley Craze Gallery Mahtab Hanna Nicholas James Images: Simon B. Armitt TRENDS 17 Image: Joel Degen Image: Joel Degen
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