Adapting to the changing silver market, and predictions for its future

Jewellery 

FO C U S 

September 2011 www.jewelleryfocus.co.uk £5.95 ISSN 2046-7265 

Adapting to the changing silver market, and predictions for its future 

X Children’s jewellery designs to cater to a new generation of customers 

X Also inside: IJL 2011 show guide, including floor plan and exhibitor list

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6 CONTENTS 

Jewellery 

FO C U S 

September 2011 

FEATURES 

A silver lining 24 

Rebecca Hoh-Hale speaks to silver jewellery suppliers 

to find out how they have been coping with rising 

costs, and what their predictions are for the future 

A career in colour 30 

Harry Waight catches up with gemmologist and 

jewellery expert Denis Bellessort to find out about his 

fascinating career and recently-launched new brand 

IJL 2011 36 

A handy show guide, including a floor plan and 

exhibitor list, to help you prepare for your visit to 

this year’s International Jewellery London event 

Creative inspiration 58 

With IJL 2011 promising to be packed with products 

to excite the professional buyer, the BJA’s Lindsey 

Straughton picks out a few of the design highlights 

Focus on children’s jewellery 61 

Bold, bright and colourful, jewellery for 

children remains a booming sector. Jon Chapple 

explores some of this season’s latest trends 

Safety first 75 

Russell Jones of Fidler & Pepper Solicitors provides 

some useful pointers for preventing and dealing 

with accidents in your store to avoid injury claims 

REgULARS 

Editor’s letter 8 

Roundup 10 

The latest news from the industry 

Janet Fitch 16 

In preparation for the new season 

and upcoming jewellery and fashion 

events, Janet delivers some essential 

background trend information 

Keith Fisher 20 

Feeling rather ashamed at 

his lack of awareness of a 

particularly spectacular 

watch brand, Keith 

rectifies the situation 

through research 

Ones to watch 22 

Trends in timepieces 

16 

61 

24 

58 

30 

Syreeta Tranfield 

Syreeta catches up with 

Stylesight’s Sandrine 

Maggiani and Claire 

Foster as they prepare 

for their forthcoming 

trends seminar at IJL 

40 

Taking stock 

A bumper selection 

43 

of new products in 

honour of IJL 2011 

43 

Designer of the month 66 

Since early childhood, Pippa Small has been 

traversing the globe, developing interests in 

both human rights and traditional jewellery 

design, as Louise Hoffman discovers 

How do they do that? 

This month, Dippal Manchanda explains 

how the pre-hallmark testing process 

has changed over the years, focusing 

especially on X-ray fluorescence 

70 

36 

66 

Leonard Zell 78 

Leonard reminds jewellers of the 

potential for transforming jewellery 

repair enquiries into valuable sales 

Industry data 80 

Events 82 

Voice on the highstreet 90 

Karim Merchant of Identity 

the Jewellers, Derby

8 

EDITOR’S LETTER 

Editor’s letter 

As if the troubled economy wasn’t bad enough, 

without our fellow citizens smashing the place up 

in an attempt to protest against that very same 

situation… if indeed that was the motivation; 

alas, I suspect not. 

There’s no beating around the bush – the recent 

riots in London and elsewhere in the UK were an 

unwelcome and disturbing reflection of our society. 

Even if they were purely a demonstration of the 

vulnerability and demoralisation undoubtedly felt 

by the majority of the population, especially the 

younger generations, the choice of action was woefully 

inappropriate, only serving in compounding the problem. That said, a 

vulnerable person’s first reaction is often to lash out or put on a show of 

‘strength’, so perhaps it is not entirely unsurprising. 

Anyway, I will close my analysis there, as I suspect I will end up trying to 

rationalise the irrational. 

Instead, let us at least focus on the positives – the communities that pulled 

together to help with the clean-up operation and restore order as much as 

they could; the support being offered and fundraising being conducted by 

organisations such as Retail Trust, to help those whose businesses were affected 

and in some cases destroyed by the rioting and looting; and the measures being 

implemented by the Government to ensure that those businesses are able to 

claim some compensation for the damage and fund repair work. 

Hopefully we can add another plus point to that list in the months and years 

to come – a real effort to reintroduce a sense of stability, belonging and care 

into UK communities. A big ask, but worth the effort. And while the retail 

sector was unfortunately the target of much of last month’s violence, I can’t 

help thinking it is also well placed to help bring about this change. Food for 

thought, perhaps… 

In the meantime, my thoughts are with those retailers who were affected by 

the riots – I cannot imagine the trauma you must be experiencing, and I hope 

you are all able to bring your businesses back to their former glory. 

This month’s cover features 

CHAMILIA 

Founded in New York City in 2002, Chamilia was 

launched on the premise of putting jewellery design 

into the hands of the consumer. Now with over two 

years’ trading under its belt in the UK and Europe, 

the company continues to grow through the retail 

partnerships it has nurtured. Chamilia is launching 

two new collections for autumn/winter 2011 – 

Swarovski and Cabaret – which it says will be sure to 

complement the trends of the season. This month’s 

Jewellery Focus cover features the new Swarovski 

Collection, which includes 30 designs in sterling 

silver. “This timeless collection contains brilliant 

crystal Swarovski Elements in a stunning spectrum of 

colours. The designs are effortlessly classic, feminine and elegant, inspired 

by all the latest colour trends,” the company says. 

Information: 0844 811 2142, chamiliauk@chamilia.com, or IJL stand F121/E121 

Jewellery 

Editor 

Louise Hoffman 

louise@jewelleryfocus.co.uk 

Editorial Assistant 

Jon Chapple 

jon@jewelleryfocus.co.uk 

Production Assistant 

Lewis Bowes 

copy@jewelleryfocus.co.uk 

Group Advertisement Manager 

Kelly Smith 

kelly@jewelleryfocus.co.uk 

Sales Executive 

Katie Thurgood 

katie@jewelleryfocus.co.uk 

Accounts 

Maureen Scrivener 

accounts@jewelleryfocus.co.uk 

Customer Services 

01206 767 797 

customers@mulberrypublications.co.uk 

Contributing writers: 

Dippal Manchanda • Harry Waight 

Janet Fitch • Keith Fisher 

Leonard Zell • Lindsey Straughton 

Rebecca Hoh-Hale • Russell Jones 

Syreeta Tranfield 

Design 

Arthouse Publishing Solutions Ltd 

01394 410 490 

contact@arthousepublishing.co.uk 

In support of: 

Jewellery Focus 

ISSN 2046-7265 

is published monthly by: 

FO C U S 

Mulberry Publications Ltd, 

Wellington House, Butt Road, 

Colchester CO3 3DA 

Tel: 01206 767 797 

Fax: 01206 767 532 

www.jewelleryfocus.co.uk 

The editor and publishers do not 

guarantee the accuracy of statements 

made by contributors or advertisers, or 

accept responsibility for any statement 

that they express in this publication. 

The opinion of the contributors may 

not necessarily be the opinion of the 

publishers. Articles are considered for 

publication on the basis that they are 

the author’s original work. No part of 

this publication may be reproduced, 

stored in a retrieval system, or 

transmitted in any form or by any means, 

electronic, mechanical, photocopying or 

otherwise, without the permission of 

the publishers.

Levanter Large Lantern Pendant: £85 

New Levanter Collection – Sterling Silver and Real Diamonds 

Sterling Silver & Real Diamonds 

View our new AW11 collections, POS and packaging at the IJL show – Stand G130 

Order our AW11 catalogue: email: cs@hdgroup.com Tel: 0118 975 3331 

hotdiamonds.com

10 

ROUNDUP 

AND bRIEfLy 

Pandora sees “sharp deterioration” 

Mikkel Vendelin Olesen, the chief 

executive of Pandora, has resigned 

following a difficult period of 

tumbling revenues for the Danish 

jewellery giant. Share prices plunged 

from DKK 147.50 to DKK 50 

(£17.27 to £5.85) on the release 

of the news, which has seen board 

member Marcello Bottoli take over 

the role in an interim capacity. 

Kurt Geiger launches jewellery line 

High street footwear chain Kurt 

Geiger has moved into jewellery 

with the launch of Everything But 

The Dress – a new line of accessories 

that includes nearly 70 pieces of 

jewellery. The shoe giant stated that 

the project – which has been two 

years in the making – should make it 

a “one stop shop” for accessories. 

IJL becomes RJC Supporter 

The Responsible Jewellery Council 

(RJC) has announced that International 

Jewellery London (IJL) has 

become an official Supporter of the 

Council. Commenting on the partnership, 

Syreeta Tranfield, the show’s 

co-director, said: “We support the 

Responsible Jewellery Council as we 

believe in promoting responsible social 

and environmental practices and 

supporting human rights throughout 

the industry, from mine to retail.” 

Van Cleef & Arpels opens in Selfridges 

Renowned Parisian jeweller and 

watch- and perfume-maker Van 

Cleef & Arpels has opened its first 

boutique in London. Occupying 

a prime spot in Selfridges’ 

ground floor ‘Wonder Room’, the 

historic jewellery house said the 

new boutique – which has been 

furnished with dark wood and eau 

du nil carpeted floors, soft curtains 

and silk-satin-covered, Art Decoinspired 

furniture – “epitomises the 

sophisticated world of Van Cleef & 

Arpels.” The brand has created a 

special collection of jewellery, known 

as ‘Magic Alhambra’ and inspired by 

the vintage Alhambra necklace given 

to Grace Kelly by Prince Rainier of 

Monaco in the 1970s, to celebrate 

the partnership. 

Cash Converters will co-operate 

with the Met 

Cash Converters has announced 

that it is to share information with 

London’s Metropolitan Police about 

gold and possible suspicious goods 

being brought into its stores. The 

second-hand goods chain revealed 

the measures in response to a rise 

in snatch thefts corresponding with 

increasing gold prices. 

Image: Nico Hogg 

Jewellers hit hard by August riots 

Jewellery retailers in London and beyond have been left counting the cost after rioting 

devastated high streets across England in early August. 

Jewellery and watch businesses became targets for looters and vandals as gangs took to 

the streets in what the Metropolitan Police called “the worst [violence] in current memory.” 

Among the businesses known to have been attacked in London were two jewellers in 

Hackney, where much of the current wave of unrest began; one in Lewisham’s Lee South 

Road; one on Rye Lane in Peckham; one on Beckenham’s high street; and another in 

Enfield, which eyewitnesses described as being “cleaned out” by “a plague of locusts.” 

F Hinds’ Clapham Junction store also fell victim to looters, in spite of the efforts of a 

number of local residents who tried to defend the shop. 

The disorder also spread outside of the capital, however, with incidents reported 

by jewellers and other retailers as far afield as Bristol, Liverpool, Manchester, 

Wolverhampton and Birmingham before the violence subsided. The decision was made 

to close the latter’s historic Jewellery Quarter amid riot fears on the 9 August, with 

London’s Hatton Garden following suit not long after. 

Tottenham jeweller Steve Moore, who lost his shop in the violence on the 5 August, met 

with Deputy Prime Minister Nick Clegg to assess the damage done to Tottenham High 

Road. “I’m devastated,” he said. “It’s completely gone. My shop just doesn’t exist anymore.” 

The Prime Minister, who condemned the “mindless selfishness” of the rioters and 

promised to take “every action necessary to bring order back to our streets,” promised 

that businesses without insurance cover that suffered damages as a result of the unrest 

will be offered support under the Riot (Damages) Act of 1886. 

A special HM Revenue and Customs helpline set up to offer advice and allow 

businesses to re-negotiate payment schedules is also now live on 0845 366 1207, and 

Retail Trust has launched a fundraising campaign on Twitter, called #highstheroes, to 

support affected businesses. 

UK remains “on growth track,” says 

Confederation of british Industry 

The UK economy will continue to grow in 2011, albeit at a sluggish rate, and will pick up modestly 

in 2012, according to the Confederation of British Industry’s (CBI) latest economic forecast. 

Despite the squeeze on household incomes from higher commodity prices and an erosion 

of business confidence, the CBI still expects the economy to grow by 1.3 per cent this year, 

compared to the 1.7 per cent forecast in May. GDP growth of 2.2 per cent is expected in 2012, 

unchanged from May’s forecast. 

“The economic outlook has become even more challenging, but we still expect the economy 

to continue to grow modestly this year and next,” explained John Cridland, CBI director 

general. “The global economy has slowed in the face of several shocks including the Japanese 

tsunami and soaring commodity prices. 

“These factors have combined with political uncertainties around the Eurozone sovereign 

debt crisis, the wrangling in Congress over the US debt ceiling and the policy tightening in 

China to erode confidence and soften activity. It may be a lacklustre recovery, but with solid 

net trade contributions and the positive impact of business investment, the UK will remain on 

a growth track.”

Industry ensures hallmarking 

survives Red Tape Challenge 

Hallmarking will not be scrapped as part of the Government’s ‘Red Tape Challenge’, 

thanks to overwhelming support from the jewellery industry, the Department for Business, 

Innovation and Skills has confirmed. 

The initiative, first reported in May’s Jewellery Focus, sought to cut red tape around business 

by scrapping or simplifying regulations that may be considered “unnecessarily burdensome, 

overly-bureaucratic or completely redundant” by business and the public. 

However, the industry responded in force in favour of retaining hallmarking in its current 

form, and the regulation has now been endorsed by the Government as a “well-designed and 

valuable” one that has widespread support, and will therefore be retained in its existing form. 

Mark Prisk MP, the Minister of State for business and enterprise, said: “We are preserving 

good regulation, such as the hallmarking regime – for which there was strong support”. 

The Birmingham Assay Office, an early and vocal supporter of keeping hallmarking as it is, 

added: “We are strong believers in the trade working together for its own good, and the level 

of co-operation between the trade associations, trade press, buying groups and major retailers 

was extremely gratifying. 

“There was an unprecedented joint response, which carried significant weight and has 

resulted in the outcome which we believe to be right and proper – that independent UK 

hallmarking be retained in its existing rigorous form.” 

Gold price reaches record high 

Concerns over precious metal prices have increased yet further as gold hit record prices in 

excess of $1,750 (£1,070) per ounce in early August. 

As well as impacting on jewellery manufacturers and retailers, the situation called European 

and North American debt recovery plans into question. “Gold hit another milestone... as 

investors lose confidence in the ability of politicians to get a grip with the debt problems 

weighing down on sentiment,” Michael Hewson, from the 

CMC Markets trading group, told the BBC, adding that 

Image: Giorgio Monteforti 

“more advances look likely.” 

“I think our industry is paying the price for the 

speculation of global central banks who are buying up 

the gold as an investment,” commented Simon Rainer of 

the British Jewellers’ Association (BJA). “It’s a question 

of supply and demand – the higher the demand, the 

higher the price – and getting the right balance between 

investment and use as a manufacturing commodity.” 

Growth in the price of silver also resumed, reaching 

nearly $40 (£25) an ounce – the highest price for 

two months. 

Tivon fine Jewellery selected as 

Diamond Jubilee partner 

Tivon Fine Jewellery has been selected as one of the official partners of the Queen’s Diamond 

Jubilee celebrations. 

The family-owned company will support the Army & Navy Club’s year-long campaign to 

celebrate HM the Queen’s 60 th anniversary as Sovereign of the United Kingdom and her 

other realms and Head of the Commonwealth. 

Only organisations that have a “direct complementary association” have been selected to 

partner the Army & Navy Club’s calendar of events, which includes a launch event at the 

club’s Pall Mall headquarters next June. The Queen is a patron of the Club, and the Duke of 

Kent is its president. 

“We are proud and humbled to have been chosen to partner and participate in such a 

prestigious event,” said a statement from Tivon. 

ROUNDUP 11 

CELEbRITy 

ENDORSEmENT 

Chloe Green, 

Tresor Paris 

Topshop heiress Chloe Green graced 

the red carpet at the premiere of Harry 

Potter and the Deathly Hallows – Part 2 

wearing a green Tresor Paris Bastille 

bracelet. She was accompanied by Ollie 

Locke from E4 reality soap opera Made 

in Chelsea; also reportedly a fan of 

Tresor Paris bracelets. 

The Bastille features crystal balls 

finished with hand-applied crystal 

and a variety of semi-precious stones. 

The stones include magnetite – 

known to be advantageous for asthma 

sufferers and good for the skin – and 

the bracelet is finished with a black 

Tibetan cord.

12 

ROUNDUP 

High street recovery “cannot be 

left to chance,” says bRC 

Figures released last month demonstrating the rate of retail closures in different parts of the UK 

in 2011 so far demonstrate the importance of protecting and promoting our high streets, the 

British Retail Consortium (BRC) has said. 

The statistics, released by PriceWaterhouseCoopers and the Local Data Company, showed that 

poor consumer confidence and shrinking disposable incomes are having a negative impact on 

non-food retailers and exacerbating long-standing problems in some of Britain’s town centres. 

BRC director general Stephen Robertson said: “High streets are at the heart of local 

communities and economies, providing jobs and essential services, but some are in trouble. 

“The Government’s review of the high street comes at a crucial time, and must result in urgent 

action. Practical steps are needed to protect and promote our high streets so they remain 

attractive locations where businesses of all kinds can thrive. This cannot be left to chance. A 

proactive approach to managing our town centres would benefit customers, communities, retailers 

and other businesses. Priorities should include keeping business rates down, deterring crime and 

having good, affordable parking and public transport. 

“It’s encouraging that not all regions are seeing a fall in retail premises – some have seen a net 

gain thanks to new stores opening. The priority must be protecting that growth and helping it 

spread to all parts of the country, boosting town centres and creating jobs.” 

£3 million collection of timepieces 

previewed by Leonard Dews 

Swiss watchmaker Patek Philippe held a preview evening for a £3 million collection of luxury 

timepieces in the Lake District on the 12 July. The collection, which was flown in from Basel in 

Switzerland, was hosted by Lancashire jeweller Leonard Dews. 

The preview drew potential collectors and 

buyers from across the region, and featured a 

£106,000 diamond-set Nautilus gents’ watch with 

power reserve; a £96,940 Perpetual Calendar 

Chronograph watch set with baguette diamonds; 

and a new £22,000 ladies’ diamond and steel 

Nautilus timepiece. 

After previewing the collection, the 60 guests 

were treated to a four-course meal at the Miller 

Howe’s restaurant, which overlooks Lake 

Windermere. In a rare break with protocol, 

attendees were able to view the collection in its 

entirety; something usually restricted, as collections 

valued at more than £3 million are presented in 

different lots for security reasons. 

Leonard Dews owner Michael Hyman commented: 

“There is a strong demand for quality wrist watches in 

the region. I’m very excited to have brought this rare 

and exciting bounty to the Lake District.” 

management restructuring at 

brown & Newirth 

British commitment ring manufacturer Brown & Newirth has 

announced a restructuring of its senior management team. 

Sales and business management will be led by newlyappointed 

sales director John Ball (pictured) – formerly national 

sales manager at CW Sellors and DMJ – while Amber Saunders 

and David Heatlie have been appointed as head of marketing 

and business development manager covering Scotland, 

Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland, respectively. 

“I’m excited by the opportunities that Brown & Newirth offers,” 

John commented, “and I’m looking forward to being part of the 

new management team that is focusing on re-energising Brown 

& Newirth for today’s market.” 

Abbeycrest chairman Simon Ashton added: “With John Ball’s 

sales expertise and Amber Saunders’ marketing skills, we have a 

progressive team that can lead Brown & Newirth into the future.” 

Life begins 

at 50 for 

Home & Gift 

Harrogate’s Home & Gift Show 

celebrated its 50 th anniversary 

in July, with a reported recordbreaking 

54 per cent increase in 

on-site re-bookings and six per 

cent increase in exhibitors. 

Nick Coffey, show manager 

of Home & Gift 2011, said the 

success of the show – which took 

place from the 17 to the 20 July 

– underlined its significance and 

position within the gift market. 

“The 50 th edition of Home & Gift 

was a particularly important 

one and I am delighted with the 

positive reaction we have received 

from the whole industry,” he 

commented. “Next year, we will 

be enhancing and expanding 

the event, so we’re delighted to 

report a record on-site re-book. 

This gives us a very strong 

platform as we look to build an 

even better show.” 

Home & Gift marked its 

50 th birthday with a series of 

special events that included a 

‘Sunday Sundowners’ celebration, 

held at the historic Majestic 

Hotel, with speeches from local 

MP Andrew Jones and Mayor 

of the Borough of Harrogate 

Les Ellington, and an official 

birthday party at Harrogate’s 

Revolution Bar. Local baker 

Betty’s also baked its biggest-ever 

birthday cake for the occasion.

Visit us at the International Jewellery London 2011 Stand No. F11 

Alternatively email mt@byaagaard.com 

byaagaard.com

14 

ROUNDUP 

AND bRIEfLy 

Hallmarking down again in July 

Hallmarking continued its downward 

trend in July, with only 896,015 

items submitted for hallmarking to 

Britain’s four assay offices – a 23.9 

per cent year-on-year decrease. 

Palladium was the only precious 

metal to register an overall increase 

in the number of items hallmarked, 

with five per cent growth compared 

to July 2010. Silver fell 31.3 per 

cent and gold 13.6 per cent, while 

platinum stayed relatively flat. 

W&W opens first studio 

Bespoke British jeweller W&W has 

opened its first studio, located in 

Webbs Road in the heart of Battersea. 

“Breaking away from the traditional 

shop front,” W&W said the studio 

is “an inspiring environment where 

clients can relax and enjoy their 

jewellery experience.” Director 

Richard Warrender added: “The 

move to our new studio in Battersea 

has been an exciting and progressive 

time for us. W&W now has a 

luxurious home where we can really 

showcase what we are all about.” 

Chamilia enters into global 

partnership with Swarovski 

Chamilia has announced that it has 

entered into a “strategic partnership” 

with Swarovski. The alliance will 

see Swarovski combine its crystalcutting 

expertise with Chamilia’s 

personalised jewellery to create a 

special co-branded bead collection. 

“Chamilia is thrilled to be working 

with Swarovski to further develop our 

personalised jewellery brand,” said a 

statement from the company. 

Strong sales for Argent of London 

Argent of London has announced 

strong like-for-like sales growth of 

nearly six per cent for the first half 

of 2011. The brand, which is noted 

for its distinctive, affordable designs, 

showed particularly strong internet 

sales; up 44 per cent on the same 

period last year. In announcing the 

results, Gail Goodrich, managing 

director and head of design, said 

she was particularly pleased as they 

“followed strong Christmas sales.” 

CMJ Media appointment 

CMJ Media, the UK’s dedicated 

media company for the jewellery 

industry, has added a new member 

to its team – freelance jewellery 

PR Katharine Realff. Katharine 

has previously worked at Swarovski 

Corporate Communications and APR 

Communications, and will be making 

use of her vast amount of experience 

and contacts within the industry as a 

consultant with the CMJ Media team 

on various projects and events. 

IDmA president hits out at 

‘dangerous’ diamond tenders 

The president of the International Diamond Manufacturers Association (IDMA) has warned 

that a number of large diamond producers are upending the sustainability of the diamond 

industry at large by selling their production through tenders. 

In an article that appeared in the July edition of HaYahalom, the magazine of the Israel 

Diamond Institute, Moti Ganz said: “If the rough producers don’t wake up in time, it won’t be 

a mere interference, but a blow to our very existence, capabilities and survival.” 

Ganz argued that tenders make sense in a world where they are one of many instruments 

of supply, but not when all or most supply is based on tenders. “Manufacturers that engage 

in occasional diamond processing might be able to survive in a world where there are only 

tenders,” he stated, “but even then it will be with difficulty… because those who manufacture 

in large quantities can dominate the tenders and push prices to a level that medium-sized 

manufacturers can’t reach. 

“When we examine these aspects of tenders, we realise that they weaken each and every 

link along the diamond value chain,” he continued. “The most prominent victims are 

manufacturers and retailers, but there is also another – the rough producer, so dazed by the 

hefty profits that it doesn’t notice the danger lurking around the corner.” 

Change of management at 

Chronoswiss as Lang steps down 

Gerd-Rüdiger Lang, the founder of German watchmaker 

Chronoswiss, has announced that he is to withdraw from 

taking an active part in the daily running of the company. 

Lang, who has served in his current role for 28 years, 

will, however, continue to support the brand as the 

chairman of a newly created advisory board – comparable 

to a board of directors – and the company says it will 

“continue as an independent family business in public.” 

As of the 1 July, the board of management consists of 

Sigrun Schillings-Heinen, Chronoswiss’s head of business 

administration, and Karlo Josef Burgmayer (pictured), the 

company’s head of sales. 

“After the crisis and the economic difficulties of 2009 

to 2010, the right moment had not come yet,” explained 

68-year-old Lang. “However, in view of the great feedback 

we received at the BaselWorld fair and our promising new 

models and very positive development in the first half of 

2011, the course for a successful future for Chronoswiss is 

now set and I feel the time is ripe for a change.” 

Dear Editor, 

A valued customer of mine recently asked us to forward any policy statements from bullion 

dealers confirming the provenance of the gold we purchased from them, so I looked up the 

websites of our principal suppliers. 

Some of them came up with a statement confirming that their gold was ethically produced 

– whatever that really means – and others have not, as yet, put a form of words together. 

We should all, quite rightly, be concerned about the possible exploitation of child workers, 

dangerous working conditions and poor housing, but where will this paper trail end? 

One well-known supplier is about to introduce a limited amount of ‘Fairtrade’ gold, and 

doubtless others will try to follow suit, but this gold will come at a price, and in limited 

quantities, so only some customers will be able to deal in this gold and salvage their green 

credential pride. 

Much of the gold produced today goes to China and India for use in factories producing 

jewellery for sale in the UK. Are their working and living conditions comparable to this 

country? I suspect not. 

If manufacturers in this country get tangled up in Fairtrade agreements they will have 

prices compared even less favourably to those of imported goods, and heaven knows the 

average jewellery wage in the UK is poor enough (for those still in business today). 

And what of the ‘get out’ of ‘recycled’ gold. What were the working conditions like when 

the gold was originally produced? 

The manufacturing jewellery trade in this country is slowly being strangled by imports. 

Let us not contribute further to this by tying ourselves in even more knots. 

Paul Alabaster

16 

TRENDS 

Summer is lovely, but I have to confess to a sense of 

relief when it’s over – even if there’s a last minute heat 

wave. Most of all, I enjoy seeing shop windows stocked 

with the new season’s merchandise after the slipshod 

summer sales displays. 

September, too, is crowded with shows to visit – IJL, Top 

Drawer, Origin, Prêt à Porter Paris, London Fashion Week, 

and at the end of the month, Goldsmiths’ Fair – with all 

the excitement of spotting new talent and outstanding 

collections for 2012. 

But let’s stick with this season and what’s in store. In 

fashion nowadays there is no single trend, but this autumn 

there are several desirable and wearable style statements to 

be seen. There’s the dominatrix, Miss Whiplash look; the 

tomboy, sharply tailored look; traditional British tweedy 

country style; sleek 40s or 50s glamour; or a 70s bohemian 

look. Add earthy tones of mustard, red and olive, lots of lace, 

lamé and defined waists, and you get the picture. 

More importantly, what are the trends in jewellery 

buying? I asked Nicholas James, a leading fine 

contemporary jewellery maker and retailer with a 

fashionable shop in Hatton Garden, for his opinion. I 

wondered whether his strikingly modern white shop front is 

daunting to customers in a street that is largely untouched 

by new design influences. “Not at all – people are tired of 

seeing the same things, and get a buzz from something 

different, although classic pieces still sell well. We sell only 

platinum, gold and also palladium for men’s rings. White 

gold is currently selling well, as platinum is so expensive. 

Rose gold and brown diamonds are having a real surge, as 

are coloured stones in general – blue sapphires in particular 

– and cocktail rings are popular. Customers making 

bespoke and wedding purchases like to take their time, and 

like to personalise a piece, taking part in the design, even if 

it’s only opting for a tiny diamond on the inside shank of a 

ring,” he explained. (www.nicholasjames.com) 

Jaana Jatyri is the founder of trend forecasting agency 

Trendstop, and predicts key trends for autumn/winter 

2011/12 to include multi-cultural ethnic elements, Celine- 

September style 

With the autumn/winter season approaching, and 

a plethora of jewellery and fashion events waiting 

to open their doors this month, Janet Fitch delivers 

some essential background trend information 

inspired new minimalism, and homespun rustic warmth. 

“The consumer is becoming increasingly savvy and more 

educated about trends, and, as a result, wants to buy the 

latest looks as soon as they read about them. In order to stay 

a step ahead of this accelerating trend cycle, retailers and 

brands have to become smarter and faster at finding those 

trends.” Good quality trend information is vital in today’s 

market, and you can visit the agency’s website on a free 

Trendstop TrendTracker app for iPhone, iPad, BlackBerry 

and Android phones. (www.trendstop.com) 

One name to watch out for is Alice Menter, launching 

at IJL, who transforms materials like nuts, washers and 

zips with gold or silver plating, multi chains, suede and 

semi-precious stones and beads to create jewellery that is 

industrial but looks glamorous and feminine and bang on 

trend. (www.alicementer.co.uk) 

Meanwhile, Mahtab Hanna’s spectacular catwalk creations 

have aroused great interest, and she has now produced a 

flattering and wearable range that is distinctively but subtly 

influenced by Middle Eastern politics, culture, architecture 

and nature. Black and white diamonds, gold and silver make 

the Sensory collection an elegant fusion of high fashion and 

detailed craftsmanship. (www.mahtab.co.uk) 

I plan to discover the world of jewellery in western 

Australia, at the exhibition at Lesley Craze Gallery 

in Clerkenwell, London, entitled ‘Cinderella’s Stories: 

Contemporary Jewellery from Western Australia’ and 

showing the work of seven contemporary Australian 

designers. The exhibition, from 9 September to 14 October, 

coincides with the visit of Dorothy Erickson to launch her 

book Gold and Silversmithing in Western Australia: A History, in 

which all seven are featured, as well as the story of jewellerymaking 

in this remote province, which was known as the 

Cinderella of the South until the discovery of fabulous 

quantities of gold in the 1880s. Dorothy Erickson will also 

be speaking to the Society of Jewellery Historians – an event 

which non-members are welcome to attend – at the Society of 

Antiquaries, Burlington House, Piccadilly, London W1J 0BE 

at 6pm on 27 September. (www.lesleycrazegallery.co.uk)

Alice Menter 

Lesley Craze Gallery 

Mahtab Hanna 

Nicholas James 

Images: Simon B. Armitt 

TRENDS 17 

Image: Joel Degen 

Image: Joel Degen

20 

WATCH THIS SPACE 

An 

education 

Feeling rather ashamed at his lack of 

awareness of a particularly spectacular 

watch brand, Keith Fisher rectifies 

the situation through research

I also learned 

that [the watches] 

have become the 

new international 

symbol of the 

world’s richest men 

It was one of those moments you would not 

wish on your worst enemy – even the motherin-law. 

A moment when you wish the ground 

would open up beneath you and swallow you 

whole. Squirm is not even the word to describe it. 

I had better come clean. 

I was recently invited to a very posh dinner 

party by a great friend of mine (and watch 

fanatic), Penelope. Over the years I have 

frequently been able to advise her on the watches 

she buys, chiefly because she loves to spend her 

money on anything with a bracelet on it. 

She wanted me to attend the party principally 

because I have this reputation as a watch 

collector and enthusiast. God knows where it 

comes from, he says modestly! 

Let us move on. The evening was going very 

well as I quaffed the Veuve Clicquot, and the 

small talk was most engaging. Then a gentleman 

called Philip arrived a little late and most 

apologetic. I couldn’t help but notice on his wrist 

one of the most beautiful looking watches I have 

ever seen. It took my breath away. 

So, as the so-called ‘expert’, I proceeded to 

enquire about it. “It is the Excalibur World 

Time from Roger Dubuis,” he said. I replied 

that it was a make that was unfamiliar to me, 

and the look on his face – well; contempt is the 

best way to describe it. 

The silence was deafening as Philip 

remarked: “I am surprised that you don’t know 

of this very special Swiss watch manufacturer.” 

Then he added (looking down his nose): “It 

cost me £35,000.” 

Oh my god. Why didn’t I keep my big 

mouth shut? 

I must add here that the rest of the 

evening went downhill from that moment, 

so the following day I did what most good 

journalists do – research! The first publication 

I turned to was the Bible of all things watches 

– Wristwatch Annual: The Catalog of Producers, 

Prices, Models and Specifications by Peter Braun 

and published out of New York. 

There on page 186 was Roger Dubuis, for 

whom the manufacture is named. Oh, the 

watches were just sensational. And I also learned, 

when I called a colleague of mine, that they have 

WATCH THIS SPACE 21 

become the new international symbol of the 

world’s richest men – like my fellow diner Philip. 

The name was only founded as recently as 

1996, as I discovered while devouring every 

scrap of knowledge. Also, significantly, it 

seems that Roger Dubuis made his name as 

a troubleshooter for all the big Swiss watch 

giants; if anybody had a problem it was soon 

solved by Roger. 

After branching out into his own 

manufacture he is now enjoying a well-earned 

retirement and the new lord of the manor is 

the dynamic Carlos Dias from Portugal, who 

was instrumental in setting up the company in 

association with Roger. 

More than 400 people work in the state-ofthe-art 

production establishment located just 

outside of Geneva, and Carlos Dias has now 

in fact established a unique jewellery line and 

various objets d’art. 

Eye-popping design, superlative handcrafted 

movements of high-tech complexity 

– these watches are luxurious avant-garde 

timepieces. They include the Monégasque; 

the Easy Diver; the Flying Tourbillon; the 

Much More Tourbillon; and the Hommage 

Perpetual Calendar. 

In times of crisis all you can do is hold your 

hands up and admit defeat – and learn from 

your mistakes. One thing is for certain – I won’t 

forget the name Roger Dubuis in a hurry!

22 

NEW TImEPIECES 

With its “cultivated elegance” and 

“impressive intrinsic values”, A Lange 

& Söhne says its new Saxonia Thin is 

“a graceful and self-confident ode to 

the heritage of watch-making artistry 

in Saxony.” The Saxonia Thin adds to 

the company’s re-designed Saxonia 

family of watches, with a minimalistic 

and slender model that features a 

succinct minute scale, lancet hands and 

svelte baton hour markers on a solid 

silver argenté dial. With a diameter 

of 40 millimetres and a height of just 

5.9 millimetres, it is the watchmaker’s 

flattest timepiece yet. 

Information: www.alange-soehne.com 

RRP: £14,000 

A major brand all over Europe, FESTINA 

says that in countries like Germany, France, 

Italy, Spain and the Benelux it is one of the 

top three watch brands in the price range of 

£59 to £299. Pictured is a model from the 

Chrono Bike 2011 collection, which features 

16 gents’ chronographs with a cyclinginspired 

theme that includes chain links in 

the design of the top ring and sub-dials with 

the form of a chainwheel. Eight models are 

fitted with solid stainless steel bracelets, and 

eight with a black rubber strap. 

Information: 0207 405 5523 or 

www.uniquejewelry.co.uk 

RRP: £285 

With the launch of Cars 2 

and the final installment of 

Harry Potter this summer, Swiss 

children’s watch brand Flik 

Flak is celebrating with new 

themed watches for children 

aged five and up. Both feature 

robust aluminium cases, 

scratch-resistant mineral glass, 

a turning bezel and washable 

textile strap. 

Information: www.flikflak.com 

RRP: £29.10 

Ones 

to watch 

Inspiration for Hamilton’s Khaki 

UTC came from the pages of the 

company’s own history books, paying 

tribute to its 1940s marine chronometers 

that integrated sidereal time. Sidereal time 

measured time relative to the motion of the 

stars around the earth, as opposed to that of 

the sun. Today, its new trio of timepieces with 

GMT functionality use contemporary design 

and current airport abbreviations to celebrate the 

“impressive voyage that navigational timekeeping 

has made to modernity.” 

Information: www.hamiltonwatch.com 

RRP: £825 (prices may vary from time-to-time 

based on rate of exchange)

a.b.art - Jewellery Focus 

Designed by Purists. 

Fashioned by the Swiss. 

The ZS Series. 

From the Collection of 

inspired, exceptional, 

stylish designs. 

See us at IJL 

Stand G48 

w ww.abart-uk.com 

01422 317539 

93mm x 130mm

24 

SILvER 

A silver lining 

The silver jewellery boom of 2010 has been knocked off track somewhat 

during the current year, as raw metal price hikes have become 

all-encompassing. But how is the situation likely to change going forward? 

And how is the trade coping with the cost? Rebecca Hoh-Hale reports 

At the time of writing, silver prices were standing at 

$38 (£24) per ounce, according to Cookson Gold. 

Prices have been climbing ever since the global 

recession and economic downturn that began in 2008, 

with people buying into commodities such as gold, gas, oil 

and silver as a more stable investment following the crash 

of the property market. Of the precious metals, gold was 

the first choice, but as prices rocketed, silver became the 

more accessible and profitable candidate, but that too is now 

reaching new highs. Investors predict that the trajectory will 

continue, with silver rising to $45 (£28) per ounce by the end 

of this year. 

This is not news to those in the jewellery trade, who have 

been battling the booming prices on a daily basis for some 

time. So, in this challenging era, we asked a selection of UK 

silver specialists where they see the silver market heading 

and how they have absorbed the prices into their business 

plans and products to keep money ringing through the tills. 

Silver Willow, the company behind wholesale sterlingsilver-based 

Chrysalis and Stack Ring Co products, has been 

tightening its belt behind the scenes, while also experiencing 

an increase in consumer desire for silver pieces – both a 

result of the recession. “Two years ago we were looking at 

$10 an ounce, and now see it fluctuating up to $40,” says 

Silver Willow’s Andy Gillard, “but these same circumstances 

have also made the consumer look for jewellery which has a 

classic, timeless look, and as gold prices are well known to be 

high, silver is now the first choice.” 

Silver Willow has endeavoured to keep its silver retail 

prices low, despite the cost of the raw material, in an attempt 

to keep business flowing. “Our main concern is maintaining 

repeat business, so we have really cut margins in order 

to stick to the catalogue price for a set amount of time – 

something we guarantee to our customers and something 

they really appreciate. Even now prices have only risen 

25 per cent, when we are experiencing a 400 per cent rise on 

the raw material.” 

Another strategy Silver Willow has put in place is the loss 

leader – a product sold at a low price (at cost or below cost) 

so as to encourage consumers to peruse other Stack Ring 

Co or Chrysalis pieces, enticing them to buy more. The 

company also supports and supplies all its retailers with free 

branded packaging and in-store marketing, free POS and 

ready-made box sets to be included in window displays. 

And what about the products themselves? How have 

they been modified to weather the price boom? “We are 

constantly looking for new ideas, to anticipate and promote 

‘the next big thing’. We feel that glass beads have reached 

their pinnacle and it is in fact silver charms that are on the 

Silver Willow

21 st Century Silver 

SILvER 25 

popularity increase. Perhaps because this means that silver 

can be bought in abundance but in small, compact sizes, 

keeping the prices low? It is good for us as this encourages 

consumers to buy many items, which can be alternated to 

change the look of the piece. 

With this in mind the latest Chrysalis by Silver Willow line, 

entitled Meadows, features charm bracelets in both classic 

sterling silver and silver with a rhodium plate. This will be 

launched at IJL as the Chrysalis pre-Christmas collection. 

Gillard has made the decision to keep the cost of the basic 

‘starter’ bracelet low (£20 wholesale price) with the intention 

that this will promote a long-term incentive to buy the charms. 

The Stack Ring Co collections also make use of silver as 

the primary raw material, with the launch of the Vintage 

range. “The aged look that can be achieved when oxidising 

silver is also keeping consumers interested,” explains 

Gillard, “as the vintage look is now one of the main trends 

in popular jewellery.” 

21 st Century Silver echoes the sentiments of Silver Willow, 

feeling that silver jewellery is currently still in demand due to 

its affordability compared to gold and the variety of styles it 

can lend itself to. However, Tony Greene at the company also 

voiced his concerns, particularly in regard to the troubled 

US credit rating. “I really feel that silver jewellery sales will 

start to suffer should prices rise further. It’s something that 

we have been monitoring over the past few years and have 

chosen designs that are less heavy and therefore still within 

most customers’ budgets. 

“Commodities such as gold and silver will remain high 

until the US and Europe resolve their monetary problems. 

When they do, large investors’ confidence in currencies will 

be renewed and then the price of silver will return to some 

level of normality. The trouble is that we do not know how 

long this will take and so we are launching a new, lighter 

range in September called Limelight.” 

“Commodities such as gold and 

silver will remain high until 

the US and Europe resolve 

their monetary problems” 

Limelight is rhodium-plated contemporary jewellery, 

without the high silver content, and therefore without the 

high prices. The shapes are slim and delicate, with open 

designs, eliminating the need for large amounts of the raw 

material. “Sleek lines, well designed but with a wide-ranging 

appeal,” adds Greene. “With the whole range retailing at 

under £20 it should be just what the hard pressed shopper is 

looking for.” 

Similarly, Rich Sewell of silver specialist Vizati feels 

confident in the company’s product but does not see a 

turnaround in the very near future, and is making the 

necessary changes to its designs. “Silver will, surely, remain 

an extremely popular medium for jewellery while the world 

price stays within certain confines. The obvious danger lies 

in speculation and other factors driving prices too high, in 

which case we will see a sharp drop in sales volume and the 

metal being traded, in the same way that we did with nine 

carat gold some years ago.” Sewell feels that the difficulties 

will arise in educating the purchasing public as to the ‘new’ 

value of silver and the fact that larger and heavier pieces will 

simply cost more than they expect. 

Vizati has inevitably had to trim down weights. “Most new 

designs will feature less silver,” says Sewell, “though in some 

�

26 

SILvER 

cases this may not be too visually apparent where the surface 

area of, say, a pendant, can appear quite substantial but the 

thickness is reduced. We will, however, maintain our popular 

larger designs, which go up to a very substantial 200 grams 

in weight.” 

The company’s new White Satin range demonstrates 

this move, with ‘cut-out’ designs helping to keep the prices 

down. The latest Magic Earth collection also uses a small 

but effective technique to lower costs: “This range features 

rare stones and we are able to set large and spectacular 

pieces, such as 40 millimetre by 30 millimetre oval 

pietersite cabochon, with just four grams of silver, while 

retaining an expensive-looking finish. Cutting corners need 

not lessen quality.” 

Jules Asch at Sussex-based The Silvery has also chosen 

the design innovations route to maintain and boost silver 

sales. “Because of these price hikes, there are so many people 

making incredible things in much more affordable mediums, 

such as brass, resin and felt, and customers have become 

used to a much bigger choice of products in contemporary 

jewellery at prices that are very competitive,” she says. “This 

has meant those working in silver have really had to up their 

game when it comes to making sure that their products are 

appealing, unusual and of a high quality. 

“I believe now people are 

expecting that little bit more from 

silver products to feel they are 

justifying the increased expense” 

“While silver will always have its fans, I believe now 

people are expecting that little bit more from silver 

products to feel they are justifying the increased expense. 

Our suppliers report back that our pieces continue to sell 

well as they have the appeal of cast silver, but with a much 

more competitive price.” 

The Silvery is also considering the importance of 

packaging and dressing the product to promote sales. “By 

sticking to what we do best and not trying to be high-fashion, 

we have been able to keep our costs down and incorporate 

smart new packaging and more detailed point of sale cards, 

which make our work more appealing to those looking to buy 

unusual gifts, especially at Christmas time. There will always 

be a large market for simple, wearable but unusual jewellery 

such as ours, and so we decided to focus on working to the 

highest standard possible rather than bringing out fancy new 

pieces for the sake of it throughout this tricky year.” 

The Silvery’s newest star item for autumn is the Acorn, 

available as a simple pendant, earrings and charm bracelet. 

The company is also bringing back its larger shell pendants, 

due to great demand. The statement necklace seems a 

permanent fixture in the Silvery’s list of best selling items, 

and with this in mind it is also introducing the new Dancing 

Feather as a large statement pendant to be worn on a longer 

length chain or thong. 

So it’s not all over for silver – the road ahead may still 

be rocky but it seems the classic and versatile look of the 

metal will have constant appeal. Manufacturers and retailers 

may just have to be a little cleverer with both design and 

marketing techniques, but this challenging era is also 

resulting in some of the most beautiful and interesting pieces 

of silver jewellery the industry has ever seen. 

The Silvery 

Supplier listing 

21st Century Silver: www.21stcenturysilver.co.uk 

AG Silver: www.agsilver.co.uk 

Elaine Jenkins: www.elainejenkins.co.uk 

mayanna: www.mayanna.com 

Silver fantasies: www.silverfantasies.co.uk 

Silver Willow: www.silver-willow.com 

The Silvery: www.thesilvery.co.uk 

Trollbeads: www.trollbeads.co.uk 

vizati: www.vizati.com 

Vizati

Green Tourmaline and Diamonds 

See us at IJL Stand I 10 

Sheldon Bloomfield 

0113 243 0100 www.sheldonbloomfield.com heidi@sheldonbloomfield.co.uk

30 

SET IN STONE 

A career in colour 

At the recent launch of the 

new Bonds of Union collection 

in London, Harry Waight 

caught up with the man behind 

the brand – gemmologist 

and jewellery expert Denis 

Bellessort – to find out more 

about his fascinating career 

“I have been 

training my 

eye constantly 

since I was 12. I 

believe that one 

must train from 

such an early age 

to fully develop 

the talent” 

For gemmologist and designer Denis 

Bellessort, jewellery is the passion of a 

lifetime. The former head gemmologist 

at Tiffany & Co and Cartier expert at 

Cartier has been surrounded by jewels from 

near infancy. He remembers being given his 

first lessons in the art by a relative: “As a child 

I spent years observing the gems of an uncle 

of mine. I used to spend hours a day studying 

them under natural light, candle light and 

artificial light.” 

It was during this time that he “fell in love 

with the stones, the colour, and the light,” and 

he went on to take trips to Paris and Cannes 

during weekends and holidays, to observe 

jewellery in different luminosities, and to see 

how it was worn by fashionable women. 

What began as a passion was soon transformed 

into a vocation, with Bellessort journeying to 

Thailand at age 18 to study in detail how stones 

were cut by master craftsmen. From there he 

began travelling between the world’s jewellery 

centres, visiting gemstone centre Idar-Oberstein 

in west Germany and on to New York, before 

going to study at the prestigious Gemological 

Institute of America in Santa Monica, from which 

he graduated at age 20. 

Bellessort then took this expertise with him 

to London, studying further at Sotheby’s and 

at Garrard, which was at the time the United 

Kingdom’s Crown Jeweller, charged with the 

upkeep of the Crown jewels. Here he learnt how 

stones could manipulate light, “containing it 

within the stone, or spraying it out, making the 

jewels sparkle.” 

Bellessort also enjoyed less formal training, 

taking time to observe the way in which elegant 

women around the capital wore jewellery; the 

way in which different pieces complemented 

different skins tones and facial types. This habit 

of observing fashionable women is one that 

has remained with Mr Bellessort, and which, 

he notes wryly, has drawn the ire of his wife on 

more than one occasion. 

The matching of the jewel to the woman is a 

recurring theme of Bellessort’s. He describes 

how he can “always tell whether a piece suits 

a lady. In jewellery you adjust a piece to suit 

a person; jewellery must direct the eye, and 

show up a woman’s charms.” He acknowledges 

the famous Vermeer painting, Girl with a Pearl 

Earring, as a master class in the power of 

jewellery to captivate the eye: “It is amazing. You 

see the pearl, and then the face. But irresistibly 

your eye keeps being drawn back to the pearl.” 

With a wealth of experience behind him, 

Bellessort found work with Tiffany & Co 

and Cartier, among others. At Tiffany he 

worked first as jewellery manager, and later 

as head gemmologist. 

At Cartier, Bellessort had the fascinating job 

of authenticating pieces thought to be by the

legendary luxury jeweller and watchmaker. 

People would bring pieces to him from all over 

the world – both watches and jewels – which he 

would study for the telltale Cartier marks and 

craftsmanship, before giving a thumbs up or 

thumbs down verdict. 

His skill in the field also attracted 

less desirable visitors. Bellessort talks of 

“professional fakers [coming] from New York 

and elsewhere, bringing what they had made, 

just to see if I could spot the fake!” 

When asked to identify the quality that has 

allowed him to achieve success in his work, 

Bellessort replies: “Having ‘the eye’.” This 

is not something that is acquired easily, and 

he believes it is the single most important 

attribute that has allowed him to flourish in 

the jewellery trade. He harks back once again 

to his childhood, saying: “I have been training 

my eye constantly since I was 12; pushing 

myself all the time. I believe that one must 

train from such an early age to fully develop 

the talent. 

“Once you’ve got the eye you can see the 

edge of the cut of the stone and then you can 

see further details in the manufacturing and 

making of the piece. And once you see this 

you understand how a piece should be worn. 

Being able to really see in this way gives me a 

huge advantage in selling, authenticating and 

designing jewellery.” 

Not surprisingly this time spent at Tiffany 

and Cartier brought Bellessort into contact 

with some of the most elegant jewellery ever 

made; “amazing pieces, mostly from the 1920s, 

30s and 40s,” routinely made their way into his 

offices. His eyes grow misty when asked about 

some of the precious stones that have passed 

through his hands: “I am privileged... I have 

seen some amazing pieces – pearls, diamonds, 

sapphires and rubies from all over the world. 

At Cartier we would get emeralds from the 

17 th century, which we would then remount.” 

Bellessort draws attention to one particular 

piece, saying: “At the moment I’ve got a 

necklace, which is a Mughal piece – one from 

about 1640. It belonged to Shah Jahan, the 

legendary builder of the Taj Mahal.” Bellessort’s 

research indicates that the necklace is likely to 

have hung around the neck of the man who 

ruled the Mughal Empire during its golden age. 

Though he enjoyed his time at Cartier and 

other companies, Bellessort always harboured 

a desire to break free and create a brand of his 

own. These urges towards independence were 

fine-tuned as he found himself “always noticing 

people in the street, seeing the jewellery they 

were wearing, and thinking: ‘If you changed 

that just a little bit, it would work.’” 

Deciding that he had the touch required 

to correct these errors in style, he set about 

planning his own range of jewellery. The result, 

� 

SET IN STONE 31 

“I am 

privileged... 

I have seen 

some amazing 

pieces – pearls, 

diamonds, 

sapphires and 

rubies from all 

over the world”

32 

SET IN STONE 

“If you make 

things by 

hand… it has 

the human touch 

that is lacking 

in machinemade 

jewellery” 

after two years of preparation, was the launch of 

Bonds of Union on 21 July. 

The philosophy behind the brand is “the 

premise that the superior quality craftsmanship 

only usually found in high jewellery should be 

available to consumers at an affordable price.” 

Bellessort believes that the recession has 

taught people to avoid spending their money 

on passing fads and trends, projecting a return 

to the stylistic elegance that prevailed in the 

1970s, and arguing that “loud, brash styles 

seem to be unpopular now. Instances like the 

royal wedding are showing us a return to the 

popularity of old-style beauty and elegance.” 

The recession is also something that has 

played to the advantage of the jewellery 

industry in many respects, says Bellessort, 

clarifying: “People are looking to buy one 

meaningful gift rather than a few that will 

disappear in time, such as perfume or candles.” 

He says that during the lean years “pieces with 

a signature did very well... and the exceptional 

pieces of jewellery did extremely well – better 

than ever, in fact.” 

It is this trend that Bellessort hopes to 

capitalise on with his new brand. He argues: 

“If you want to buy a young lady a present for 

about £100, £200 or £300, where do you go? 

There aren’t many places. There is jewellery 

that is trendy and doesn’t last very long, but I 

think these days people want to give something 

that is timeless and serious, but also affordable. 

And I think I have achieved that.” 

The manufacturing wing of Bellessort’s 

operation is in India. The hunt for a workshop 

was a difficult one, but Bellessort eventually 

found what he was looking for in Jaipur, a city 

in northern India. What attracted him to the 

spot were the rich traditions of craftsmanship 

that prevailed there – traditions that he says 

have fallen by the wayside across much of 

Europe. “In Jaipur they have the techniques I 

used to work with 20 or 30 years ago. They’re 

real jewellers – they work with their hands, the 

same as the very best workshops in Europe,” 

Bellessort explains. 

Believing that this hands-on approach is 

essential, he adds: “If you make things by 

hand, then each piece is slightly different. 

It has the human touch that is lacking in 

machine-made jewellery.” 

The result – Bonds of Union – is considered 

by Bellessort to be his proudest achievement, 

and it is in this direction that he sees the rest of 

his working life unfolding. “From here I want 

to work with mine owners myself, to get a large 

quantity of special stones. And then establish 

some close contact with jewellers, first in 

England, and then abroad.” 

He hopes that the future will see Bonds of Union 

“becoming a loved signature” within the industry – 

the next goal in an already sparkling career.

36 

IJL 2011 SHOW GUIDE 

Show time 

As the IJL team prepares to 

open the doors to Earls Court 

for the 2011 event, it’s time to 

plan your visit once again… 

International Jewellery London (IJL) 

returns to Earls Court from the 4 to 

7 September this year, with the 

organisers promising new exhibitors, 

new product areas, new trends and new 

show features, all designed to further 

enhance the visitor experience. 

The latest trends 

With an exhibitor list including 

such names as Aagaard, Gecko, Hot 

Diamonds, Sheldon Bloomfield, Julia 

Burness, Deema Collection, Gracie J 

Designs and Perthshire, visitors to this 

year’s event can expect to view a vast 

range of products and services during 

their visit, and prepare for the Christmas 

season with new stock orders. But the 

stands are not the only attraction… 

Knowledge is power 

The IJL seminar programme has 

been unveiled ahead of the show, 

and can be viewed in full at 

www.jewellerylondon.com/seminars. 

The seminars and panel debates 

are free to attend for visitors, 

and will be delivered in a new 

purpose-built seminar theatre – the 

Inspiration Theatre. 

The line-up includes Jeremy Hoye, 

discussing unique collaborations with 

a focus on his latest venture, and 

Elizabeth Galton, who will speak about 

redefining luxury in the digital ages. 

Shop-in-shops will be debated at the 

event, and a panel featuring experts 

from the Goldsmiths’ Company will 

identify the latest developments in 

materials, processes, training and 

hallmarking. Meanwhile Martin 

Rapaport will reveal his annual report 

on the state of the diamond industry. 

Keeping ahead of trends is an 

ideal way to run a successful jewellery 

business, and top trends forecasting 

agency Stylesight will identify upcoming 

trends to inspire visitors. Shop owners 

and managers can also experience a 

snapshot of a brand new inspirational 

programme, in the Mary Portas Guide 

to Successful Retailing seminar. 

Retail Theatre will be the focus 

for the motivational seminar by 

Insight with Passion, providing vital 

information about how to improve and 

enhance the in-store retail experience, 

and everything from online 

opportunities to mobile commerce will 

be covered in other seminars. F Hinds 

will also reveal the outcome of its 

High Street By Design competition, 

launched last year, in a seminar about 

the initiative. 

Stephen Webster will take part in the 

Great Debate, providing a talk about 

Fairtrade Fairmined gold and showing 

a video he made earlier this year while 

travelling to find out more about the 

issues. This will be the first time the 

film is shown at a large industry show 

and Stephen Webster will take part in a 

groundbreaking Q&A session with the 

rest of the Great Debate panel after the 

screening. The Great Debate is hosted 

by the Birmingham Assay Office. 

On the catwalk 

The IJL Runway is being launched, 

which is a new catwalk running 

the entire length of the Boulevard. 

Sponsored by Aagaard, two shows are 

scheduled for each day of the event, 

with themes including: All that Glitters 

is Gold; Trends by Hilary Alexander; 

Modern Vintage; the Bridal Collection; 

Watches – A Moment in Time; the 

Rainbow (gems); and Fairtrade and 

Ethical Jewellery. 

In the zone 

Among the new product areas being 

introduced at IJL this year is the 

Designer Brands area, which will be 

launched within the Design Gallery. 

“A selection of established and iconic 

designers will be unveiling new 

collections here,” comments co-event 

director Sam Willoughby. “Designer 

Brands will add even more selection 

and opportunities to find your next best 

seller.” Loose Diamonds & Precious 

Gems is another new, dedicated product 

area, and will draw attention to gem 

companies which only provide quality 

loose diamonds and precious stones. 

Future stars 

Finally, why not pay a visit to the Bright 

Young Gems and KickStart stands? 

The Bright Young Gem designers have 

been selected by a panel of judges as 

being hotly tipped for success; and 

KickStart is a feature supported by the 

British Jewellers’ Association, which 

acts as a commercial launch pad for 

the 10 promising designers selected 

to take part, providing a boost for 

the industry and allowing retailers 

to source products from the best new 

design talent of 2011. You can find a 

sneak preview of the designers at 

www.jewellerylondon.com/kickstart 

“With so many new designers, 

brands, initiatives and developments, 

this year’s show is set to be an 

outstanding one, with well over 

500 exhibitors already lined up to 

reveal their latest work,” concludes coevent 

director Syreeta Tranfield. 

for more information about IJL, please visit or call 0208 271 2144. 

you can also register to attend via the website.

Exhibitor list 

5C Group G81 

A 

A E Ward & Son Ltd J79 

a.b.art G48 

A.G. & Sons (UK) Ltd E141 

A.S. Diamonds J19 

AAGAARD A/S F11 

Aaron Shum Jewelry Ltd i145 

Abigail Stradling C31F 

Actacrown Limited J59 

Adaptive Consultancy Ltd C119 

Adele Taylor C43 

ADL International Magazine GMN 

Advalorem Ltd G131 

Advance Solutions C148 

Aesthetic Jewellery Company 

Limited J167 

Aim Display E148 

AK Bijoux Minerals J70 

Alan Ardiff D48 

Alexander Davis C10 

Alexandra Simpson C41 

Alexis Dove Jewellery C29 

Alice Gow Designs D15 

Alice Menter C95 

Alish Wholesale Ltd J49 

Almost Perfect D41 

Alraune Lapidaries 

Edelsteinhandels GmbH K40 

AMA Agencies F154 

Amanda Coleman A15 

Amanda Cox Jewellery C16 

Amber Hall Jewellery F38 

Amrapali UK Ltd i71 

Amy Keeper Jewellery C31A 

Ana Verdun Jewellery E14 

Anand And Anand J38 

Anchorcert Diamond Certification 

Service H109 

Andea Jewellery D101 

Andrew Geoghegan E64 

Annie Banian C94 

Annie Mundy Jewellery E88 

Annika Rutlin B46 

Anthony Blakeney A43 

Antwerp Diamonds Ltd G31 

Anya Ghadimi D47 

Apple Display & Shopfitting Ltd 

C141 

Apsara J29 

Argenterie Giovanni Raspini Spa 

F20 

Aris Jewellers i138 

Artisan Jewelry D89 

Art-Stone C170 

Ashiana A103 

AsiaGems.co.uk J119 

Azteca Trading A81 

B 

B K Jewellery J154 

Babette Wasserman C60 

Bachtar Kleinod oHG J81 

Bacio Italy Srl F148 

Bass Premier Co. G101 

Beadstone K128 

Becca Jewellery C2 

Beijing Yue Xiu Sheng He Xian 

Co.,LTD C116 

Benchpeg Ltd E50,GMN 

Benor Designer Jewellery C90 

Beth Gilmour Jewellery B37 

BH Multi Com - EFFY H30 

Big Ant Sp zoo Sp.K C32 

Bjorg Design GmbH G100 

BKT (Rings) Ltd/TJW (Diamonds) 

Ltd H59 

Black Sea Jewels by Ia B45 

Bossert GmbH E130 

BQ Watches H48 

Bransom Retail Systems Ltd i100 

Brave Designs C98 

Breuning GmbH H61 

British Jewellers’ Association H151 

Brown & Newirth Ltd G51 

Buildview Jewellery Limited K162 

Buja C49 

Bullion Bond Limited C159 

Burkmar Jewellery A21 

Button and Co F131 

By Elise E78 

C 

C W Sellors G71 

C.D. Co. Ltd J166 

Cabbage is King C31E 

Carrs Silver E11 

Cathy Newell Price A19 

Ceylon Gems ltd J41 

Ch. Dahlinger GmbH & Co KG 

C121 

Chamilia Europe Ltd. F121,E121 

Charlie High Designs D13 

Charmian Beaton Design D108 

Charming by Ti Sento G140 

Chavin Jewellery D10 

Chris Hawkins C21 

Christelle Ltd i155 

Chun Yuen Jewelry Company 

Limited K164 

Ciara Jewellery Co Ltd J169 

Citrus London Ltd C100 

Claire English - Special Jewellery 

Co C31B 

Claire Troughton Jewellery A38 

Classic Time Ltd H149 

Clot’s Image Jewellery Co. Ltd. i165 

CME Leicester Limited E81 

COCOTIER Co.,Ltd. A55 

Codis Maya C58 

Coeur de Lion E89 

Collette Waudby Ltd A40 

Colorjewels J145 

Contor Aichinger E51 

Corona Jewellery Company H31 

Cresber H78 

Cudworth Enterprises Pty Ltd E151 

Curteis Ltd H121 

D 

D Scott-Walker H19 

Dabbah Ltd D109 

Daisy Jewellery G134 

Daisy Knights Jewellery Design D40 

Dan Jewellers Ltd i1 

Dancing Apsara Ltd C48 

Daniel Vior C44 

Dante Cenci Limited G89 

David Peterson Clocks i140 

De Mexico F101 

Deakin & Francis Ltd C69 

Deckwell Gold Ltd J143 

Deco Echo F50 

Deema Collection J120 

Delcam UK C160 

Department of Export Promotion, 

Chanthaburi i88 

Design & Style J90 

Designed by Bond C54 

Detlef Menard C101 

Dewcarat Ltd K144 

Di Perle GmbH K30 

DMJ Ltd F61,F59 

Domino G131 

Donald Clarke F100 

Doreth Jones C31G 

Double Arts Jewellery 

Manufacturer Ltd J144 

Dower & Hall G78 

Drew Perridge B12 

Dureco AG K108 

Dwarka Gems (Europe) Ltd J20 

DWJ(B’ham)Ltd H35 

E 

E. Wolfe & Co. H101 

E.F.D. Diamonds Co. Ltd. K18 

Eastern Mystic Jewellery B39 

EJI J153 

Elran Jewellery Ltd A89 

Emeraldcroft Diamonds K20 

Emir Kuyumculuk Ltd H148 

Emma Turpin C31H 

Emsaru i18 

Erfurt Design D111 

Ethically Precious Ltd E109 

Euro Pearls G41 

F 

Farah Qureshi B1 

Fashion and Jewels Ltd E170 

Fashionville.Co.,Ltd E59 

FDJ - Fairmont Diamond Jewellery 

J30 

Fei Liu Fine Jewellery G121 

Ferrara GiFè Gioielli SAS di 

Ferrara Luigi i81 

Festina E119 

Fi Mehra Designs B48 

Fierros sprl K84 

Filigree Street D70 

Fine Gems Collection GmbH i70 

Flash Jordan B51 

Fleet Promotional Packaging C151 

Fred E Ullmann H21 

G 

G McKenzie F41 

G&T (HONGKONG) Co., Limited 

C108 

Galaxy USA Inc J1 

Gecko F31 

Gem A (The Gemmological 

Association) J50 

Gemex H38 

Gemological Institute of America 

i91 

Gemvision Europe Ltd C120 

Genie Jewels Ltd i20 

Georgini F150 

Germès by Saveria Geronimi A25 

Gift Time Ltd i140 

Gina Melosi C31C 

Gina Stewart Cox E40 

Glacier Jewellery i124 

Glenn Campbell B19 

Global Color Research Mix 

Publications B90,GMN 

Global Jewelry Special GMN 

Global Sources Publications Ltd 

GMN 

Global Timepieces & Jewelry GMN 

Gold Pack Packaging Ltd C129 

Goldmark H129 

Gold-N-Diamonds, Inc. / Jewelry 

Super Center i119 

Goldschmiede Atelier i95 

Goldsmiths’ Craft & Design 

Council C51 

Gracie J A32 

Greenspark Limited G49 

H 

H S Walsh & Sons Ltd A131 

H W Tankel (Scotland) Ltd H71 

Hallmark Design & Shopfitting 

Ltd i101 

Hanron Jewellery Ltd J40 

Hans D. Krieger KG G61 

Hans Rivoir Gmbh i28 

Happy Dragon Arts Ltd - Helen 

Fung K120 

IJL 2011 SHOW GUIDE 37 

Harrison Brothers & Howson Ltd 

C115 

Hatton Garden Metals H1 

Hazel Atkinson Jewellery B55 

Hean Studio Limited H119 

Heinz Mayer OHG G11 

Henrich & Denzel GmbH G99 

Henry and Powell H39 

Herbert Marx Ltd i89 

Heskia Brothers - Almor Design 

i139 

Hesse + Co. H69 

Hirsch Watch Bracelets Ltd H91 

HK Jewellers i78 

Hong Kong Jewelry Manufacturers’ 

Association K166 

Horo Sales i69 

Houlden Group H115 

House of Panache (UK) Ltd i40 

I 

IAS Training A141 

IDEX Online- International 

Diamond Exchange i109 

IGI i21 

Imagem K28 

Inbar Shahak Textile Jewelry D19 

Independent Diamond Laboratory 

J80 

Indo Gems Handels GmbH K110 

Institute of Professional 

Goldsmiths i135 

International Bullion G21 

International Diamond and 

Jewellery Co. (I.D.J.C) G101 

International Gemstones Ltd J82 

International Packaging 

Corporation (UK) Ltd D119 

Itchydo K68 

J 

Jack Schpektor H10 

Jacob Issacharoff Diamonds/ JID 

i111 

Jade Rich Jewellery Ltd. J147 

Jaipur Silver Jewels PVT. Ltd A105 

Jax Jewellery Ltd A101 

Jayce Wong Ltd A39 

JCI Jewellery Ltd E71 

JCK Magazine GMN 

Jeremy Hoye E68 

Jersey Pearl F81 

Jessica De Lotz D42 

Jessica Flinn Designs A36 

Jessica Jewellery Design B15 

Jewel Arts Ltd. K154 

Jewel World Limited C91 

Jewellery Focus J94 

Jeypore Creations Inc E1 

Jian of London F71 

Jianhui London D1 

Johnson Matthey Precious Metals 

Marketing H11 

Joias J61 

Jon Vincent The Watchmaker 

Limited i143 

Joseph & Pearce Ltd i35 

Joseph Lamsin Jewellery B59 

Josyfon Ltd H88 

JRJ Jewellery Ltd. E41 

JSC Krastsvetmet H45 

Jules Jules B49 

Julia Burness Jewellery B54 

Just Brothers & Co. A151 

Justin Duance D43 

Juvela Gems C163 

Juvi Pearls C109 

K 

K & R Jewellery H111 

K K Jewellery Co Ltd J157

38 


Kali Ma Designs Ltd F30 

Karen Hallam A30 

Kathleen Baird B33 

Kerstin Laibach D27 

Keywest Color Stone Chain, Inc i131 

Kiki Charms D25 

Kin Chong Gems & Jewellery Fty 

Ltd K150 

Kirin Jewelry Company F109 

Kit Heath Ltd F91 

Kleshna C70 

Kling GmbH E130 

Kokkino D11 

Kranz & Ziegler Denmark E39 

Kristal Diamonds Ltd K10 

L 

L M Jewellery Ltd H131 

La Diosa C31J 

La10 C17 

Laroche Opals J69 

Latham & Neve D28 

Laura Gravestock B42 

Laurel Jewellery Ltd H81 

Lavan Jewellery A29 

LBJ Jewellery E101 

Leon Israel Designs Ltd i58 

LEONARDIarte B76 

Leslie Donn Ltd H50 

Leyla Abdollahi A33 

Linda Macdonald Jewellery B29 

Li-Ren Stone & Pearl Jewellery E90 

Lola Rose F151 

London Pearl (London) Ltd H10 

London Road Jewellery G141 

Lonmin Design Innovation Award 

H11 

Lorenz, Dieter Edelsteindesign A11 

Lotus Jewellery Company Ltd J155 

Luca Barra F48 

LUCKY EYES , LONDON B78 

Luke Goldsmith E18 

Luxor Gioielli snc H158 

M 

M. Weskamp / I. von Hoerde GbR 

K78 

M.S. Kays Jewellery i41 

Magda T D104 

Magdalena Tello C15 

Maker Mends i98 

Malcolm Morris D18 

Manihir International Co Ltd K92 

Manu Werkstatt fur Schmuck F108 

Marcia Lanyon Limited J51 

Marcus McCallum FGA J31 

Maria Black C12 

Mark Milton Ltd G91 

Marlene Hounam A35 

Martick Jewellery F1 

Mathieu Tormen Joaillerie A41 

Matt Aminoff Pearl Company i38 

McCourt’s Jewellery H64 

McLauchlan Gemstone Traders 

Ltd J89 

Meira T. Designs i90 

Metal Meringue A101 

Metalor Technologies (UK) Ltd 

H119 

Michael Peckitt B53 

Midhaven Ltd F51 

Min Fletcher Jones A28 

Mirabelle C80 

MIRPURI C31D 

Mirri Damer B35 

Mishca London A49 

Missoma Ltd H18 

Momocreatura B13 

Mounirs Design E48 

Mouse Jeweller E16 

MSK Display Works C161 

MSS Watch Company A171 

Murray Ward C111 

Muru Jewellery E70 

My Pearl GmbH & Co Kg H60 

N 

Namiki Co Ltd J130 

Nannapas Ltd B101 

Natalie Jane Harris B34 

Nathan & Stock Ltd C79,D74 

National Association of Goldsmiths 

H151 

Neilson Photography C117 

Nelson Jewellery Arts Co Ltd J163 

Nereida Jewellery E98 

Newbridge Silverware F170 

Nexus Pearls J108 

Nick Hubbard C26 

NOA C105 

Noble Jewelry Ltd J150 

Nomades H98 

Nomination srl F111 

O 

Opals Mine Factory Limited B109 

Oria Jewellery A18 

Oriental Gemco H41 

Oro Ltd i121 

Ortak Jewellery G88 

Otis Jaxon D71 

P 

P J Watson Limited G111 

P. Kennedy Ltd E61 

Palmun Ltd H51 

Pascale Forcetti Jewellery A51 

Paula Bolton Collection Ltd D91 

Peace Of Mind D94 

Pearce Displays E150 

Pearls Of The Orient F40 

Penny Warren D14 

Perfection Jewellery Ltd J10 

Perthshire Jewellery Company E159 

Peter Lang Australia C34 

Phuze A48 

Pica Design F108 

Ping Ping Jewellery A91 

Pollards International Inc Cool 

Case Company E124 

Poly Philippou D29 

Pomegranate E29 

Potters (London) Limited A121 

Prism Design Ltd F39 

Pure Stones J101 

Pursuit Software Ltd H150 

R 

R.E. Morrish i80 

Rachel Entwistle A24 

Rachel Galley Jewellery Design Ltd 

B60 

Radiant Diamonds J21 

Rahul Exports J115 

Raymond Hak Ltd F99 

Rebecca Anne Johnson B36 

Rebecca Joselyn A1 

Responsible Jewellery Council J95 

Richard Cooper and Company F18 

Ritone Jewelry International 

Limited K140 

Rocks-Watch i149 

RodgersandRodgers D88 

Roma Vincent : Metal Manipulator 

A37 

Rosina Beech B24 

Rowena Park Jewellery D49 

Royal Jewelry Mfg. H58 

Royal Selangor Pewter UK Ltd F170 

Rubie Rae A60 

Rubin & Son C128 

Ruppenthal (UK) Ltd i99 

Russkiye Samotsvety i48 

Ruth Bridges Jewellery D45 

S 

S J Jewels F28 

SafeGuard Jewellery Valuation 

Service H109 

Sally Ratcliffe Jewellery C45 

Samuel Jones (Pearls) Limited i50 

Sandia Silver A79 

Sara Preisler England C19 

Sarah Ibrahim C31i 

Sarah Jordan C61 

Sarah Packington B14 

SC LULAV CONSULT SRL D95 

Scala Gioielli Srl i79 

Scherer Creations E99 

Schmuckbasar de Tudi Billo E161 

Sea - Noy Design A115 

Sharose Designs B99 

Shaun Leane G109 

Shawkat Shami Fine Jewelry Salon 

i68 

Sheena McMaster B38 

Sheila Fleet Jewellery Ltd A59 

Sheldon Bloomfield Ltd i10 

Shimara Carlow B32 

SHO Fine Jewellery Ltd E60 

Shona Marsh C3 

Shwet Ratan Impex J39 

Sian Bostwick Jewellery D29 

Sian Elizabeth Hughes Jewellery 

B16 

Sico International Ltd K26 

Sigal Distribution Ltd B89 

Sil Gold i29 

Silver Art Palace J91 

Silver Cherry Ltd C71 

Silver City Jewelry Inc G50 

Silver Delights Ltd B81 

Silver Fantasies F140 

Silver Service E24 

Silverado / Anna Gee Ltd B71 

Silverline Jewellery Ltd F58 

Silvermine (UK) Limited E21 

Silveroq D90 

Silvex Los Angeles G70 

Simon Kemp Jewellery A47 

Simplicity ET i39 

Since 1853 Ltd H141 

Singhal Gems J58 

SK Diamonds H89 

Skulls and Orchids D21 

Smets Diamant J11 

Smile Jewellery A99 

So Jewellery A71 

Solitaire Gemmological 

Laboratories Ltd. J110 

Sonal Talgeri-Bhaskaran London 

B39 

Sonya Bennett Jewellery Ltd A31 

Sophia Mann B13 

SPARK - Firma Corundum Sp. 

z.o.o. F89 

Spinning Jewelry A/S F130 

SSP Steidle GmbH C150 

Stack Ring Co and Chrysalis by 

Silver Willow F49 

Step by Step G48 

Storm - Sun 99 Ltd G95 

Strom Brothers Ltd E19 

Stubbs & Co (UK) Ltd G119 

Stunolite ltd D80 

Summer and Silver B93 

Sun Enterprises BV J111 

Sunrise Gems J99 

Sunshine Exim Traders Ltd i11 

Susan Plowman B23 

SuShilla C11 

Susie Warner D20 

Sutton Tools A119 

Svane & Lührs ApS F135 

T 

T H March & Company Ltd C138 

T O’Donoghue Ltd i51 

Taka Jewellery (Hong Kong) Ltd 

i161 

Takao Cioco & Sartori Jewellery C89 

Takat Gems USA Inc./Takat Jewels 

Inc. i19 

Talbots (Birmingham) Ltd C130 

Tara Kirkpatrick Jewellery B31 

Tezer GmbH G108 

Thai Design Distributors Ltd E91 

Thai Silp Company i118 

The Best Joyas GMN 

The Bijou Box Company C131 

The Birmingham Assay Office H109 

The Branch B41 

The Company Of Master Jewellers 

Ltd H99 

The Goldsmith Magazine GMN 

The Goldsmiths’ Company i63 

The Jeweller’s Box Company C140 

The Jewellery Display Co Ltd C149 

The Laboratory at the 

Birmingham Assay Office H109 

The Mineral Warehouse J109 

The Opal People K88 

The PMC Studio C81 

The Rowell Trading Company J121 

The Silvery B21 

Ti Sento F161 

Tianguis Jackson E49 

Tina Lilienthal B47 

Tirisi Jewelry G151 

Tivon Fine Jewellery H108 

Tomasz Donocik A39 

Town Talk Polish Co Ltd E128 

Treasure House Limited E79 

Tregawne A111 

Tresor Paris Hasbani UK i49 

Trollbeads F90 

Turquoise Jewellery Ltd F141 

U 

Ungar & Ungar H79 

Unique Jewelry Ltd E115 

United Color Gems Inc i31 

V 

Vera Sterchele H128 

Veronique Designs Limited A13 

Very Precious F142 

VFM Consulting Ltd C158 

Vimal Arts & Crafts F160 

Vinod Kotahwala Inc. J28 

Vista Jewelry Ltd i141 

Vizati Ltd D81 

Vogue Diamond J68 

W 

W Hamond - Original Whitby Jet 

Shop G79 

Weston Beamor G131 

William Cheshire C30 

World Shiner (UK) Ltd & Mireya 

(UK) Ltd H80 

X 

XMC International Ltd H139 

Y 

Yaron Morhaim Jewellery Design 

Ltd B80 

Yuki Mitsuyasu B11

Industry 

InsightS 

Retailing in a 

Multichannel World 

Press 

Office 

Successful 

Retailing 

The Restaurant 

Hampton 

Room 

Mall 

Room 

Windsor 

Room 

Whitehall Room 

Harbour 

Room 

Victoria 

Room 

Up to 

Seminar 

Room 

Catering 

Cafe Bar 

& 


Restaurant 

F.Hinds 

High Street 

by Design 

Competition 

Winners 


Press Office 

& Seminars 

A60 

A48 

A38 A40 

A36 

A28 A30 A32 

A24 

A18 

A171 

A 

A151 

A121 

A119 

A103 

A161 A168 

C169 E160 

E161 

A131 

A59 

A49 

A29 

A19 

C130 

C128 

C120 

C48 

B47 B49 

B101 

B51 

B39 

B29 

B23 

B21 

C158 

B19 

C16 

C159 E150 

C131 E130 

C129 

C121 

C119 D119 

C115 

C109 

D108 

C89 D89 

C51 

C29 

E128 

E124 

D29 

D27 

D19 

E159 

E151 

A149 C148 

C149 

F148 

A141 

A99 B90 

A71 

C140 

C138 

A111 A115 C116 

A105 

A101 

A91 

A89 

A81 

A79 

B80 

B78 

B99 

C90 

B79 

B71 

C108 

C98 

A69 B68 C68 

A61 

B109 

B76 

A55 B54 

A51 

A47 

A43 

A41 

A39 

A37 

A35 

A33 

A31 

A25 

A21 

A15 

B48 

B46 

B42 

B38 

B36 

B34 

B32 

B24 

B16 

B14 

A13 

A11 

B12 

B60 

C124 

B 

C170 

C160 

B37 

B35 

B31 

B15 

B13 

B11 

C100 

B93 C94 

B89 

B81 

C80 

C70 

C60 

B59 

C58 

B53 B55 

B45 

B41 

B33 

C150 

C54 

C44 

C34 

C32 

C30 

C26 

C12 

C10 

C 

C163 E170 

C41 C43 

C161 

C151 

C99 

C71 

C69 

C49 

C141 

C117 

C111 

C105 

C101 

C95 

C91 

C81 

C61 

C45 

C21 

D111 

D104 

F130 

E115 

E109 

E101 F100 

E89 

E81 

E79 

E51 

E39 

E29 

E21 

E19 

E11 

A1 B1 C2 C3 D1 E1 F1 

D95 

D94 

D90 

D88 

D80 

C79 

D74 

D70 

D50 

D48 

D42 

D40 

D28 

D20 

C19 

D18 

C17 

D14 

C15 

C11 D10 

E148 

D 

E68 

E64 

E60 

D109 

D101 

D91 

D81 

D71 

E50 

D49 

D47 

D43 D45 

D41 

D21 

D15 

D13 

F170 

D11 

E98 

E90 

E88 

E78 

E70 

E48 

E40 

C40 

Bright Young 

Gems 

C31 

Design 

Gallery 

Bar 

GCDC 

KICKSTART 

D25 

E24 

E18 

E16 

E14 

E F 

E141 

E121 

E119 

E105 

F48 

F38 

F30 

F28 

F18 

F108 

F88 

F58 

F50 

F139 

F121 

F111 

F109 

F101 G100 

F89 

F81 

G78 

F59 

G108 

F71 G70 

F51 G50 

F49 

F41 

F39 

F31 

F11 

G48 

G109 H108 

G101 

G89 

G81 

G71 

G51 

G49 

G41 

G31 

G21 

G11 

G119 

G111 

H58 

H50 

H48 

H38 

H30 

H18 

10 

H119 

H89 

H81 

H78 H79 

H109 i108 

H101 

E99 F90 

F99 G95 

G99 H98 

H99 

E91 

E71 

E49 

E41 

F150 

F160 

G130 

G88 

G141 H148 

H147 i148 i155 J154 

G131 

G91 

G129 H128 

G121 

H88 

H139 

H131 

H121 

H115 

H111 

H91 

H59 

H51 

H45 

H39 

H35 

H31 

H21 

H19 

H11 

H1 

i100 

i88 

i80 

i78 

i114 

H71 i70 

i38 

i28 

i20 

i18 

i10 


i118 

i58 

i50 

i98 

i90 

i1 

i121 i139 

E61 F61 G61 H64 

H69 i68 

i69 J68 

J69 

E59 

F142 

F40 

F20 

F154 

F140 

F161 

F151 

F141 G134 

F135 

F131 

F91 

G140 

G H I J K 

Boulevard 

Bar 

Sponsored by 

Chamilia 

IJL Runway Sponsored by AAGAARD 

G151 

G79 

H158 

H150 

H140 

H60 

H10 

H80 

H151 

H149 

H141 

H61 

i149 

H129 i128 

i124 

i104 

i143 

i48 

i138 

H41 i40 

i140 

i165 

i161 

J150 

i145 J144 

i141 

i119 

i111 

i109 

i101 

i99 

i95 

i91 

i89 

i85 

i81 

i79 

i71 

i63 

i51 

i49 

i41 

i39 

i35 

i31 

i29 

i21 

i19 

i11 

J166 

J124 

J122 

J120 

J118 

J116 

J110 

J108 

J100 

J94 

J88 

J84 

J80 

J78 

J70 

J112 

J82 

J58 

J50 

J38 

J34 

J30 

J167 J169 K166 K164 

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J155 J157 K154 

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J1 K1 

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K40 

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J145 J147 K144 

A B C D E F G H I J K 

ENTRANCE 

Seating 

Organisers 

Office 

Inspiration Theatre 

Sponsored by Spinning 

J143 

J117 

J101 

J99 

J91 

K140 

K26 

K78 

K68 

K96 

K20 

K104 

K84 

K88 

K28 

Crussh 

DP 

Cappuccino 

Espresso 

To 

Business 

Centre 

Seating 

IJL 

Sales 

Lounge 

Diamond 

Club 

Lounge 

Editors 

Choice 

Feature 

Global 

Media 

Network 

Lounge 

Seating 

Dash! 

Cloakroom 

Loose Diamonds & Precious Gems 

Jewellery Solutions Designer Brands Hong Kong Pavilion 

Fine Jewellery 

Design Gallery Watches 

Gems South African Pavilion 

Silver Jewellery

40 

INDUSTRy 

Now 

trending… 

Syreeta Tranfield, event manager for 

IJL, catches up with Stylesight’s Sandrine 

Maggiani and Claire Foster as they prepare 

for their forthcoming trends seminar 

Sandrine Maggiani 

Claire Foster 

Inspiration is key to good business – when jewellery retailers and 

designers feel inspired, they are at their best. Gaining an insight into 

the latest trends, whether they are retailing trends or design trends, is 

an excellent way to feel inspired. This is the reason we provide specialist 

trend forecasting at International Jewellery London (IJL). 

Leading international agency Stylesight is presenting a trends seminar 

this year. I interviewed speakers Sandrine Maggiani, European trend 

director, and Claire Foster, accessories editor, ahead of the show. 

What will you present at IJL? 

Sandrine: Stylesight will present A/W 12 Megatrends + Jewellery, offering 

an in-depth look at the overarching trends influencing design for the 

A/W 2012 season, with a focus on the subsequent design directives for the 

jewellery and accessories market. The four trends presented will be Raw 

Energy, Sensing Matter, Wild Craft and Digital Dimension. 

Lots of retailers come to IJL to source products for the Christmas period. 

What will be the hot trends for Christmas in terms of jewellery design? 

Claire: For Christmas, we will see a return to simple constructions and 

a celebration of standout gemstones. Geometric, modernist themes 

intercept settings and design details. Clusters of mixed colours and 

materials evolve the classic holiday season showpieces to create a 

contemporary aesthetic. Layered stones and fresh placement update 

cocktail rings and statement neckpieces. 

Please could you give us an insight into some of the jewellery trends we can 

expect to see in 2012? 

Claire: A focus on natural elements brings a new attitude to raw minerals, 

with marble and wood being used to reflect wild craft and raw energy 

themes. Natural leather and warm toned metals are also emerging as 

important materials for jewellery designs, confirming the shift to noble, 

honest concepts that relate to the human sensibility. Colour palettes for 

decorative flourishes and foundation materials take reference from the 

great outdoors, celebrating the unique tones found in nature. 

An introspective viewpoint also evokes a new theme centered around the 

human body, with anatomical keynotes inspiring new jewellery structures. 

Cells, bones and blood inspire and evolve previous animalistic themes to 

set a more graphic look. Laser cut or intricately 

constructed cuffs, collars and rings are a 

directional adaptation of some of these key items. 

Cosmetic tones ground this look, which also 

features highlights of deep reds, and fiery hues. 

Speaking to a truly futuristic theme, digital 

design contributes to the new fluidity and rapid 

prototyping silhouette direction. Innovative 

materials, such as matte finish metals, plastics 

and ceramics, are key. This new feminine 

aesthetic can be applied to statement jewellery 

pieces from neckpieces to structured bangles. 

Why is an understanding of the trends so important 

to both manufacturers and retail jewellers? 

Claire: Understanding and developing the 

trends for your customer is an essential part of 

the process these days, as a huge majority of 

consumers are increasingly fashion and trend 

savvy and so know what seems new, and what 

they have already bought into. Globalisation 

and the access to unlimited references online 

mean that the fresh take on seasonal trends is 

key for designers to stay ahead and make wise 

choices about materials, colour and design. 

Are there basic rules to interpreting a trend? 

Claire: It is always essential to understand your 

customer. This means the difference between 

a think tank directional concept and the 

outcome of that concept becoming a wearable 

and desirable piece of jewellery. Apply your 

customer needs and spending habits to develop 

the trend in a way tailored to the market, with 

consideration to your costings and resources. 

At Stylesight we look for trends emerging in 

a number of diverse places – from the street, 

to the runway, to the vintage markets in France 

– so an overview of factors often results in us 

recognising that something is happening and 

being reported on across a number of countries, 

market levels and mediums, confirming initial 

trend directions. 

The Stylesight presentation is taking place at IJL on 

4 September at 1:45pm in the new Inspiration Theatre, 

and is free for visitors to attend.

Visit us at the international Jewellery london 2011 stand no. e39 

Alternatively email info@kranzandziegler.co.uk 

or call our UK sales office on 01530 588166

2011 

New launch for September - Limelight, the new rhodium 

plated jewellery range from 21st Century Silver. 

Plus more exciting silver additions. 

21st Century Silver - the contemporary jewellery specialists. 

Tel/Fax: 020 8339 3731 

E-mail: info@21stcenturysilver.co.uk 

Web: www.21stcenturysilver.co.uk

Taking stock 

�¬ Ch Dahlinger says that its new window displays for the autumn will 

help attract customers into its customers’ shops. “Our display collections 

and special packages will refresh your presentation and are available at 

keen prices and with quick delivery,” the company comments. “Accent 

colours, such as red and lime green, are still a key feature of any window 

display. New ideas in packaging, particularly the 325 Elegance collection 

of boxes and Christmas limited-edition bags and boxes, will make an 

impact as you prepare for the busiest time of the year.” 

Information: 01473 620 720 or www.dahlinger.com 

IJL stand: C121 

¬ Harrison Brothers & Howson 

has launched a Diamond Jubilee 

collection, which is illustrated in its 

four-page leaflet. It will be stocking 

the range in such a way as to enable 

quick delivery, and the stand shown 

is available when certain collections 

are purchased at no extra charge. 

The company has two other 

catalogues that show all its current 

ranges, which are usually held in 

stock for immediate delivery. 


silver@harrison-howson.com 


stock 

Takin 

¬ Stainless steel jewellery continues 

to increase in popularity, and 

with precious metals becoming 

prohibitively expensive, IFJ Limited 

of Reading says now is the time 

to take a serious look at lower cost 

alternatives. IFJ has been supplying 

quality stainless steel jewellery for 

over five years and has many happy 

customers. Its comprehensive range 

includes bangles, bracelets, rings and 

pendants for ladies and gents. 


www.steelyourself.com 

IJL stand: I140 

TAKING STOCK 43 

¬ Ruth Bridges will be showing her contemporary diamond solitaire 

ring collection at IJL this year. The new 18-carat gold rings with brilliantcut 

diamonds are available with 0.15-, 0.25- or 0.50-carat stones of GSi 

quality. The 0.50-carat ring has the added detail of tiny diamonds on the 

collet. The rings sit nicely alongside Ruth’s popular existing collections 

and her collection of pear-shaped, stone-set stacking rings, which are also 

new for IJL 2011. 

Information: www.ruthbridges.co.uk or info@ruthbridges.co.uk 

IJL stand: D45 

¯¬ Ntinga’s range of fine diamond 

eternity rings and silver gem 

jewellery now includes Pure 

Attraction, a silver, magnetic, 

multi-coloured collection of five 

colours and three thicknesses, with 

matching attachments and rings 

and complemented with a number 

of accessories. The item pictured is 

from its Gem Silver range, which 

includes matching rings, earrings 

and pendants in amethyst, blue 

topaz, citrine, smoky quartz, and 

lime quartz. 

Information: 0208 959 6550, 

howard@ntinga.co.uk or 

www.ntinga.co.uk 

IJL stand: J116

44 

TAKING STOCK 

¬ Jack Schpektor started in the 

diamond business in Amsterdam 

when he was 19 years old, first 

cutting and polishing the diamonds 

and progressing onto sorting them 

by colour, quality and polish. After 

a few years he moved to Antwerp 

and started his own business, 

mainly specialising in natural fancy 

colour diamonds and servicing 

customers’ white diamond requests. 

Jack, a member of the Antwerp 

Diamond Exchange and Club and 

London Diamond Bourse, is based 

in Antwerp and London and says 

his guarantee is “trust, service and 

a quick response.” He is able to 

offer a selection of fancy colours 

from 0.05 to four carat, with and 

without certificate. 

Information: www.saymazal.com or 

jackschpektor@yahoo.co.uk 

IJL stand: H10 

¯¬ The new Cabaret collection from 

Chamilia is inspired by the Montmartre 

district of Paris, where the culture of 

cabaret began. The rich colours and 

ornate details seek to “perfectly capture 

the spirit of the cabaret.” Sterling silver 

is complemented by opulent colours 

from crystal Swarovski Elements and 

Italian Murano glass, “bringing the best 

of artistic influences from the past to 

the present.” 


www.chamilia.com/uk 

IJL stand: F121/E121 

�¬ Gracie J produces 

distinctive, contemporary, 

design-led jewellery made 

using ceramic beads dipped 

in silver and threaded onto 

fine quality leather. Featuring 

a varied selection of many 

designs – choker-style chunky 

pieces, strings of beads and 

statement jewellery that turns 

heads – design award winner 

Gracie J says all are “beautifully 

packaged, and perfect if you’re 

looking for something in 

the mid-price range that will 

appeal to customers looking for 

that extra special yet affordable 

gift.” All items are designed 

and made in the UK. 


www.graciej.co.uk 

IJL stand: A32 

¬ IJL will again see the attendance of Nexus Pearls, which will 

be exhibiting new ranges of jewellery including pieces in silver, 

like the bracelet shown. Nexus says Tahitian cultured pearls are 

featuring heavily this season, but that instead of using traditional 

gold – the price of which is at an all-time high – it’s using silver 

to keep the ranges at a low price while keeping the quality high. 

Pearl strands will also be available, with some offers across the 

ranges and a full range of clasps to complement. 

Information: 0121 554 9999 or sales@nexuspearls.co.uk 

IJL stand: J108 

¯¬ Sunshine Exim has been supplying fine 

jewellery to wholesalers, manufacturers and 

retailers for over 20 years. Over these years, 

the company has become known for making 

quality items that range from classical and 

contemporary designs to custom-made pieces of 

jewellery. Sunshine Exim says its main aim is to 

continue supplying fine jewellery to its existing 

clientele while also entering into new longterm 

partnerships with prominent wholesalers, 

manufacturers and retailers. A large selection 

of diamond eternity rings is also available, and 

custom-made pieces can be supplied three 

weeks after final approval. 


www.sunshineexim.com 

IJL stand: I11

46 

TAKING STOCK 

�¬ The Bug Store, part of Reading-based Gift Time Products, 

has introduced a new product – the Just Look Mini Microscope. 

A useful jewellers’ tool to check those tricky-to-see hallmarks or 

to sell on a retail basis, Gift Time says the special crystal optics 

and high-intensity LED light give “the ‘wow’ factor like you’ve 

never seen before.” A full CD catalogue is available on request, 

or a price-free version can be downloaded from the website. 

Trade price lists are sent on request. 

Information: 0118 947 1405, www.justlookmicroscope.co.uk or 

www.gift-time-products.co.uk 

IJL stand: I140 

¯¬ With jewel tones set to be one of winter’s hottest trends, 

Marcia Lanyon Ltd says it’s ready to “encourage your 

adventurous side” with a wide range of vibrantly-coloured 

stones and beads to choose from. Browse from a hand-picked 

selection ranging from playful dyed howlite and striking lapis 

lazuli to elegant briolettes and beads in all the colours of the 

rainbow, plus an extensive collection of freshwater pearls. 

Information: 0207 602 2446 or sales@marcialanyon.com 


�¬ The PUK welding device 

is a compact and versatile TIG 

welder from Sutton Tools. Fine, 

precision welds can be carried 

out either free-hand or under 

a 10x binocular microscope. 

Made by Lampert in Germany, 

it has operating principles very 

similar to those of a laser welder. 

Sutton Tools explains that the 

device allows clean, instantaneous 

welds, and in contrast to soldered 

joints, heat is highly localised and 

rapidly dissipated. This allows 

components to be handheld and 

welds to be made close to heatsensitive 

gemstones. 


www.suttontools.co.uk 


¬ For strong and striking 

yet delicate pieces, Julia 

Burness Jewellery has a 

unique collection of sterling 

silver and vermeil lace 

jewellery. The company also 

specialises in one-off bespoke 

work, creating jewellery from 

pieces of vintage lace, and 

is especially ideal for bridal 

wear, being able to match 

jewellery perfectly to a lace 

veil or gown. 

Information: 

info@juliaburnessjewellery.com or 

www.juliaburnessjewellery.com 

IJL stand: B54 

¯¬ Charmian Beaton will be showing three new collections at 

IJL 2011, all launched this year. Shown here is her Mariposa 

range, which has been a great success this summer and is 

expanding for IJL, with coloured gemstones added in place 

of the brilliant-cut diamonds. Mariposa, meaning butterfly in 

Spanish, is an eye-catching cocktail range in frosted 925 silver 

and 18 carat yellow gold, set with trillion-cut lemon citrine 

and round, brilliant-cut diamonds. It can also be ordered in 

925 silver, set with the aforementioned gemstones. 

Information: 01622 609 650 or mail@charmianbeaton.co.uk 

IJL stand: D108

REGENT’S PLACE, 338 EUSTON ROAD, LONDON NW1 3BT 

T: 02075448572 F: 02075448401 

info@advancesolutions-uk.com 

www.advancesolutions-uk.com

50 

TAKING STOCK 

¯¬ London Road, the distinctive gold 

jewellery brand that launched nationally 

last September, is introducing several new 

collections at IJL. These include the Black 

Diamond Tassel collection, and Willow – a 

new pearl and yellow gold collection created 

exclusively for London Road by designer 

Hannah Bedford. London Road will also 

be showcasing additions to some of its 

best-selling ranges, including the Kew and 

Portobello Diamond Raindrops collections. 


www.londonroadjewellery.co.uk 

IJL stand: G141 

¬ Deema is a designer based in Oman who seeks to “capture the latest 

trends and insights of the prestigious jewellery markets.” Combining this 

with Arabian Gulf heritage, Deema has come up with state-of-the-art designs 

for Arabian jewellery with a modern look, adding a different flavour to 

the options available at this year’s IJL. “Our creativity and adherence to 

excellence is expressed in hundreds of forms and styles,” says the company, 

“delivering a very unique appeal and jewellery that is finely-finished, 

in exclusive and limited editions.” Deema’s collection includes rings, 

pendants, necklaces, earrings, bracelets and bangles in precious metals and 

incorporating an array of precious and semi-precious stones and pearls. 

Information: shadya@deemacollection.com 


¯¬ Sema Sezen, the designer and owner 

of Tezer, has this season taken her 

inspiration from the unique texture of 

lace. The collection takes the delicate 

intricacy of lace and transforms it 

into a girly sterling silver collection of 

necklaces, bracelets, pendants, earrings 

and rings. The necklaces are adaptable 

to be worn either long or short and are 

also available in gold plate. For more 

information, please contact UK sales 

agent Sharon Acton. 

Information: 07774 928 045 

IJL stand: G108 

�¬ Trollbeads’ latest Debut bracelets offer a great selection of colour combinations for stylish looks this season, including the 

emerald tones of the Green Shadow and the Silver Trace beads of the Free Spirit bracelet (pictured); and the black and white 

duo of Black Spot and Black Armadillo in the Timeless bracelet. There are six bracelets in the new range, each featuring a 

Trollbeads sterling silver chain, a pretty lace Lock and two specially-selected Murano glass beads in complementary colours. 

Information: 0117 377 4214 or www.trollbeads.co.uk 

IJL stand: F90 

¯¬ At this year’s IJL, Mancini 

is “proud and excited” to 

introduce to the UK its newest 

range – Monella Milano. 

Consisting of silver jewellery 

set using crystals made with 

Swarovski Elements, Mancini 

says Monella is “perfect for 

fashion-savvy shoppers looking 

to snap up affordable delights.” 

Information: 

mancini@monella.co.uk or 

www.monella.co.uk 

IJL stand: F139

52 

TAKING STOCK 

¯¬ Lavan Designer Jewellery, established in 

1993, will be exhibiting its latest designs at IJL 

for the first time this year. David Weinberger’s 

jewellery collection features intricate 

contemporary and classical designs combining 

gold, sterling silver, precious and semi-precious 

stones, including opals and pearls. Delicate 

lines and soft shapes are finished with the 

“unmistakable and subtly luxurious gleam” of 

precious metals. All jewellery is hand-made in 

Buckingham. 

Information: www.lavan.co.uk 


¬ In our June issue, Jewellery Focus chose Nicola Bond, of 

Designed By Bond, as our featured designer following her 

successful launch at Spring Fair. As well as her Medina range 

and her newer Rye collection, she will be premiering her men’s 

jewellery at this year’s IJL. These pieces feature blackened silver, 

kiln enamels and her distinctive trademark raindrops. 

Information: 07931 928 937 or www.designedbybond.com 


¬ 

� Following a successful Harrogate Home & Gift Show, Valentina is looking 

forward to a very busy autumn season. Its new collections – Equinox, Berrylicious 

and Avant Garde – are reportedly proving very popular, with colours that 

include warm chocolates, reds and golds, vibrant greens and teals and rich, dark 

amethyst and soft pinks in Murano glass rounds, squares and hearts. Its Romance 

collection (pictured) features Murano glass hearts suspended from hand-strung 

Swarovski and agate bead necklaces and bracelets, with matching drop earrings. 

Information: 01638 552 879 or info@valentinajewellery.com 

¯¬ Ag Silver will launch its autumn 2011 collection in August, giving 

customers a chance to start planning their Christmas purchasing. With 

jewel colours on-trend this season, the collection includes colourful pearls, 

rich natural stones and plain silver and 18-carat gold mixed with cord, 

for an up-to-the-minute look. Charlie Maddocks, Ag creative director, 

comments: “With jewel colours and rubber, cord and leather set to be all 

the rage, we’ve had fun with our autumn launch. We’re also giving our 

customers the opportunity to place their Christmas orders earlier this 

year, giving us a chance to back best-sellers, and in return we’ll be giving 

those accounts that order early a little something back.” 

Information: 01603 631 314, claire@agsilver.co.uk or www.agsilver.co.uk 

¬ With gold prices rocketing, Gemelite says more and more customers 

are switching to palladium. Gemelite is able to offer diamond-set jewellery 

at price points close to its nine-carat range. Hallmarked by the London 

Assay Office, and with no need to rhodium-plate, with Gemelite jewellers 

now have an alternative to nine-carat white gold. Feel free to contact the 

company for a catalogue or to book an appointment to see its range. 

Information: 0800 023 2952 or www.gemelite.co.uk

54 

TAKING STOCK 

¬ 

¯ H3-D Technology proudly 

introduces a new service 

called Jewellery Innovations. 

Combining H3-D’s CAD/CAMbased 

design and manufacturing 

expertise with over 20 years 

of goldsmithing and casting 

experience courtesy of Mandos 

Designs, Jewellery Innovations 

offers the entire jewellery 

manufacturing process as one 

simple service. By bringing 

all stages of manufacturing 

together under one roof, the 

company says it can guarantee a 

quick, thorough and easy-to-use 

service. “Whether it’s handmade, 

CAD-made, or a complex 

combination of the two, you can 

be confident you will get results 

both you and your customers will 

love,” the company comments. 


www.jewelleryinnovation.com 

¯¬ Hatton Garden-based Villamarts Ltd is a premier loose 

diamond wholesaler and jewellery manufacturer. The 

company says that its focus is on competitive prices and 

excellent service, and that its friendly staff members are 

available to assist with any enquiries. Villamarts has a large 

available stock of loose certified diamonds that can be viewed 

online, and interested retailers can also visit the showroom to 

view the company’s range of diamond jewellery, including 

diamond-set wedding bands, engagement rings, diamond 

studs and line bracelets for all price ranges. 

Information: 0207 417 0260, ron@villamarts.co.uk or 

www.villamarts.co.uk 

¬ Dutch brand Bulatti says it has “once again 

produced a stunning collection of jewellery for the 

more discerning retailer, who demands quality, 

style and original design.” Its latest collection – 

which makes extensive use of Swarovski crystal and 

Swarovski pearls and is delivered with gift packaging, 

guarantee certificates and free POS merchandise – is 

only available via selected and approved retailers, 

“ensuring maximum profits and exclusivity within an 

area.” Contact Lorraine Thomas for more information, 

or view the full collection on the company’s website. 

Information: 01245 360 949, lorraine@bulatti.co.uk or 

www.bulatti.co.uk 

¬ Elaine Jenkins is a Liverpool-based jeweller and 

silversmith. After graduating from Liverpool Hope 

University with a Bachelor of Design with Honours 

degree in 2008, she set up business in a Liverpool 

studio making collection work for galleries across 

the UK and commissions for private clients. Elaine’s 

work is inspired by the natural world, focusing on 

texture and contrasting materials, and is made 

predominantly from silver, gold and precious 

and non-precious stones; although she also uses 

platinum within her commission work. Elaine is 

currently working on a new collection that will 

be launched at the Liverpool Design Show (7 to 

9 October) and will also be available at the MJN 

Christmas exhibition at Manchester’s Art Gallery. 


www.elainejenkins.co.uk 

¬ Chrysalis has just launched its new range of 

Baltic amber beads to complement its vast collection 

of colourful handmade glass and cat’s eye beads. 

Each amber bead has a sterling silver insert and 

Chrysalis branding. The amber beads come in 

shades of milky white, lemon, rich shades of cherry 

red and deep honey tones of cognac, and in both 

faceted and cabochon finishes. Each amber bead 

adds an individual touch to jewellery as no two will 

ever be identical. 

Information: 01823 698 898 or www.silver-willow.com

For information please contact Fable Trading Ltd on 0117 377 4214 

WWW.TROLLBEADS.CO.UK

56 

TAKING STOCK 

¯¬ Cavendish French will be launching 

a new collection of friendship bracelets 

at the 2011 Autumn Fair show (hall 

3, stand P01). The range is skilfully 

designed and hand-crafted using silk, 

sterling silver, semi-precious stones 

and crystals in a range of colours to 

suit every fashion or style. Wearers can 

create their own look by wearing several 

together, as is the current trend, or as a 

single bracelet “to add that final touch 

of colour, sparkle and style.” 

Information: 0800 731 4389, 

sales@cavendishfrench.com or 

www.cavendishfrench.com 

¯¬ RGM Products Ltd stocks a 

wide range of cultured freshwater 

pearls in different shapes and 

sizes, including traditional long 

drilled and potato pearls, Biwa and 

larger, more unusual shapes. All are 

available loose-strung or finished 

with a choice of fastener. RGM also 

supplies a wide range of gemstone 

jewellery, from inexpensive chip 

necklaces to fancy beads and 

matching silver and nine-carat gold 

earrings. The company is a direct 

importer and says it can therefore 

offer competitive prices with a 

prompt and reliable service. 


www.rgm.co.uk 

¬ 

¯ Twenty years ago, Mayanna made the 

observation that amber has been used to 

adorn men and women for at least 10,000 

years and pledged to do its bit to continue 

that tradition into the next 1,000. Now, in 

the second decade of the new millennium, 

Mayanna says its amber jewellery is as 

fresh and modern as ever. “The selection 

of the very best amber pieces, combined 

with expert use of silver and gold, makes 

Mayanna amber jewellery what it is,” the 

company says. “It is beautifully designed 

jewellery with interesting lustrous amber.” 


anna@mayanna.com 

�¬ Perfect for the new season, Candy Bling bracelets are the 

latest accessories from Charms UK. Candy Bling is part of the 

Candy Bracelet collection, which includes over 50 bracelets and 

necklaces created in sterling silver with CZ, crystal and different 

colours of silk cord. The bracelets are available in one-, threeor 

11-bead versions with black, white and coloured crystal and 

sterling silver. 

Information: 0117 968 3979 or www.charmsonline.co.uk 

¯¬ To fill what it sees as a void in the 

modern silver ring market, KisSilver 

has introduced a range of contemporary, 

stylish and cocktail ring designs. 

Through constant demand, it has also 

added a collection of silver watches 

to its range, which come with a twoyear 

guarantee, while parent company 

Hanalex Ltd has brought out a brand 

new line of gold hoops, speciallydesigned 

to be extra lightweight to help 

meet certain price points. All KisSilver 

products come with a box, and display 

stands are available. 


sales@hanalex.co.uk 

�¬ With 40 years 

of experience 

in diamond 

manufacturing 

and trading, 

Shrenikstar 

offers a wide 

range of polished 

diamonds in 

all shapes and 

colours. The 

company specialises in 0.005pts up to 15 carats 

in qualities from IF to PQ3 in all colours from D 

to Z. Natural fancy colours are also offered, both 

with and without certificates. GIA, HRD and IGI 

certificates are additionally available, mainly in 

sizes from 0.30pts up to 15 carats. 

Information: 0032 3233 5916 or info@shrenikstar.com

58 


Creative inspiration 

The British Jewellers’ Association (BJA) has always championed good 

UK design, and this year’s IJL is set to be packed with companies 

that have created products to excite the professional buyer. Lindsey 

Straughton, BJA marketing manager, picks out a few… 

Chavin Jewellery: stand D10 

Chavin Jewellery (pronounced sha-veen), a new designled 

ethical jewellery brand, is launching its first collection 

– Antiquity, designed by Ana De Costa. It combines the spicy 

mythology, colours and craftsmanship of Peruvian culture 

with spic-and-span interpretations by modern, freethinking 

designers. Jaguar rings are made from oxidised silver with 

black diamonds and rose gold with rubies; and there is also a 

rose gold double Jaguar head with rubies. 

www.chavinjewellery.com 

Malcolm Morris: stand D18 

Malcolm Morris has over 30 years of experience in 

designing and making stylish contemporary silver and gold 

jewellery. He will be exhibiting his most popular range 

called Apple Blossom, along with his two latest collections 

Magma and Oyster. 

www.malcolm-morris.com 

William Cheshire: stand C30 

William Cheshire is a designer-maker who creates elegant 

and exciting jewellery, comfortably mixing fine fashion with 

bespoke and the commercial world. Working in silver and 

gold, the jewellery is often embellished with precious stones 

or enamels. This stylish pendant from the Libertine range 

(pictured) has received international acclaim. 

www.williamcheshire.com 

Anthony Blakeney: stand A43 

Anthony Blakeney’s work this year has been inspired by the 

twisting and turning of plant roots, especially the rose. He 

takes a real piece of root, casts it, and manipulates it into a 

beautifully tactile and wearable item. Daring and strikingly 

simple, this range will add interest to any display. 

www.anthonyblakeney.co.uk 

Daisy Knights: stand D40 

Daisy Knights, who cut her teeth on the Bright Young Gems 

and KickStart stands, exhibits in her own right this year. 

Every piece is handcrafted in her studio in the Cotswolds 

or in her workshop using 100 per cent recycled silver and 

ethically sourced materials. Her use of gold vermeil gives 

pieces a rich look at affordable price points. 

www.daisyknights.com 

Alexis Dove: stand C29 

Experienced designer-retailer Alexis will be showing the 

silver ‘Curio’ range at the show alongside her popular wild 

rose and blossom ranges. All available in silver with gold and 

rose gold vermeil options. 

www.alexisdove.com 

Chavin Jewellery 

Malcolm Morris 

Anthony 

Blakeney 

Daisy Knights 

William Cheshire 

Alexis 

Dove 

Alexis Dove

Andrew 

Geoghegan 

Doreth Jones 

Cabbage 

is King 

Emma 

Turpin 

Tomasz 

Donocik 

Claire English 


Tomasz Donocik: stand A39 

Tomasz will be showing his latest fine jewellery collection of 

18 carat white, rose and black rhodium gold with round 

diamond pave and semi-precious stones of round ruby and 

tsavorite. Inspired by the paradox of the natural world, the 

‘Garden of Good & Evil’ collection fuses the sinister side 

of beauty with the evident, as delicate snowbells with fluid 

moving cups juxtapose Venus fly traps. 

www.tomaszdonocik.com 

Andrew Geoghegan: stand E64 

Five years since he last exhibited at Earls Court, Andrew 

knows that he has to pull out all the stops to show the 

industry that he truly is a tour de force in the bridal and 

cocktail market. New launches include gents’ wedding rings 

(a first for AG), the Satellite pendant, Celestial pendant and 

the Triumph. Pictured is his 10 millimetre Tahitian pearl and 

diamond Mohawk ring. 

www.andrewgeoghegan.com 

Doreth Jones: stand C31G 

Doreth Jones has been inspired to create some new 

and exciting pieces for her debut at IJL, incorporating 

coloured stones. Working in recycled silver, Doreth Jones’s 

award-winning pieces are the embodiment of urban chic 

and intricate beauty, appealing to the confident and 

discerning individual. 

www.dorethjones.com 

Claire English – Special Jewellery Co: stand C31B 

Claire’s whimsical, unmistakably English designs are 

informed by her insatiable interest in the narrative potential 

of objects. Like a magpie she gathers stories, presenting 

familiar items in a mischievous and unexpected, yet 

commercial way. 

www.claireenglish.com 

Cabbage is King: stand C31E 

Greig Alderman from Manchester makes exquisite statement 

pieces, which serve to blur the distinctions between jewellery 

and art. Cabbage is King is characteristically original as Greg 

attempts to incorporate sociological ideas into his thoughtprovoking 

designs. 

www.cabbageisking.com 

Emma Turpin: stand C31H 

Emma’s aim is to bring the old and the new together. She 

has a passion for traditional craftsmanship, which is reflected 

in her style. Emma’s ‘Maidens Garlands’ collection uses a 

technique developed by herself, to create hand-folded fine 

silver rosettes. 

www.emmaturpin.com 

The bJA (IJL stand H151) has launched its new website – 

– with a fresh look to support its ever-expanding services and benefits. 

“We have updated the member services and have added relevant new 

services to the Association’s portfolio,” comments Lindsey Straughton. 

“The Designer Showcase will give our growing number of designers the 

opportunity to enhance their entry with more images to help sell their 

products.” meanwhile, the ‘Commission A Designer’ page has proved 

most popular and lists designers by geographical location to help the 

public find someone local.

Bijou Ad Jewellery Focus 93mmx268mm:Layout 1 28/2/11 11:57 Page 1 

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1 

fOCUS 

ON 

Bold, bright and colourful, jewellery for 

children is a booming sector that is showing 

no sign of abating. Jon Chapple explores 

some of this season’s latest trends 

Whether geared towards 

toddlers or teenagers, the 

children’s jewellery sector 

is one part of the British 

market that continues to boom, with 

evidence pointing towards the demand 

for jewellery for little ones growing at 

an astonishing rate. And as the sector’s 

profile and the number of brands 

children’s 

jewellery 

involved increases, more retailers are 

sure to want to take advantage of the 

potential profits to be made in the 

years ahead, meaning there’s never 

been a better time to explore the range 

of options available. 

Research has shown that from a very 

young age children are naturally drawn 

to bold, brightly-coloured objects, 

NExT GENERATION 61 

3 

so it’s no surprise that eye-catching 

collections in a range of vibrant colours 

are very much in vogue when it comes 

to children’s jewellery. 

Jo for Girls, which experienced 

300 per cent growth last year, says it’s 

currently “finding the market buoyant” 

in terms of the demand for its “fun, 

glitzy, girly and classic designs.” 

Creators Keith and Linda saw the 

potential for the children’s jewellery 

market seven years ago, and say the 

secret to their success is recognising 

that little girls and teens “more and 

more want to be older than they are. 

“By including a number of grownup 

designs and re-designing them 

especially to fit the smaller person, Jo 

for Girls is achieving rapidly growing 

sales,” they comment. “Although this 

is a children’s range, we are selling to 

both adults and children so it is vital 

to have packaging that appeals to all. 

The inclusion of an exclusive, corded 

�

62 

NExT GENERATION 

2 

2 

‘trophy’ bag to the bright display 

already available really makes an 

impact on both display and sales.” 

With huge demand for its cord 

friendship bracelets, Jo for Girls has 

recently created eight designs of pink 

cord with silver charms, while a new 

three-strand pink cord has also been 

added to its charm bead collection. 

Its Birthstone Angels range – which 

comes with a unique ‘sentiment card’ 

in co-ordinating colours – is also 

proving popular, and the Tantalising 

Strawberry collection is “being sold by 

the punnet!” 

The Little Angels range is a designer 

collection of children’s jewellery from 

Mancini “for the little angel in your 

life.” Each piece from the Little Angels 

range, which includes rings, necklaces, 

bangles and bracelets in designs like 

ducks, angels, hearts and butterflies, is 

created using 925 sterling silver with 

stones sourced for their outstanding 

colour clarity. All Little Angels products 

come gift-wrapped in luxury brand 

packaging, exclusively designed to 

make a special keepsake. 

Kali Ma Designs’ latest range of fun 

Ruby B. children’s jewellery, introduced 

at Home and Gift this year, is ideal for 

children from three years old through to 

teenagers. The range includes colourful 

enamelled party polka dots, hearts and 

strawberries, precision-cut sterling silver 

animal charms, alphabet and number 

charms and a sparkly assortment of 

Austrian crystal studs and charms, with 

each individual piece carefully packaged 

with its own branded Ruby B. bag and 

organza pouch. 

“Children’s jewellery is proving to 

be an expanding market area where 

customers are looking for something 

a little different while maintaining 

a competitive price,” says Kali Ma 

managing director Emma Perkins. 

“Our stunning little pieces are available 

with a complete set of branded point 

of sale displays that provide a very 

marketable and unique assortment to 

the retailer.” 

Priding itself on its “treasure trove 

of little gems for junior jewellery 

fanatics,” Paradise Jewellery has 

an extensive silver jewellery range 

that includes crystal ball pendants 

decorated with colourful flowers and 

swirls, pretty hearts, cute animals, 

fairies and flowers in crystal, cubic 

zirconia, mother of pearl or simply in 

plain silver. Finish off with Paradise’s 

choice of fine chains and packaging to 

create the perfect gift. 

1) Jo for Girls: 01887 820 760 

(IJL stand E159) 

2) Kali ma Designs: 01803 872 555 

(IJL stand f30) 

3) mancini: 0191 214 7074 

(IJL stand f139) 

4) Paradise Jewellery: 0117 377 4280 

4

66 

DESIGNER 

Global gathering 

Since early childhood, Pippa Small has been 

traversing the globe, developing interests 

in both human rights and traditional 

jewellery design. Louise Hoffman finds 

out how she has succeeded in marrying 

these two elements, to positive effect 

Your journey to jewellery design has taken you around the world. Can you tell us 

the story of your career to date? 

I was very lucky to have a mother who loved adventure and who took us 

travelling with her from a very young age. My earliest memories are of 

the bazaar in Marrakech, filled with storytellers and magicians, healers 

and dancing monkeys, and ever since I have had a fascination with other 

cultures, landscapes and ways of life. 

I started to travel on my own while at university, where I had gone to 

study anthropology and later a master’s degree in medical anthropology. 

By then I was very interested in human rights, particularly the rights of 

minorities and indigenous groups who have been so marginalised and 

discriminated against all across the world. 

After getting my MA I went to work with a local grass roots organisation 

in Sarawak and then Sabha in Borneo on land rights issues and cultural 

rights. I was in awe of the women and men I was working with – they were 

from the local Kadazan and Penan tribes and were so brave and risked so 

much to fight for the right to protect their ancestral lands from loggers or 

palm oil plantations, and large scale development projects. 

From there I went to work in Thailand with another NGO (nongovernmental 

organisation) working with indigenous peoples from all 

over Asia. I continued to work in this area for a few years, finding the work 

fascinating and the communities I was lucky enough to spend time with so

DESIGNER 67 

“I have made jewellery since I was a child, gathering 

beads, buttons, pebbles and shells and making strings 

of long necklaces and bracelets to hold close to me” 

rich with knowledge about their environment and how to live with it. It was 

a very inspiring time for me and fuelled my interest in jewellery as a way of 

communicating so much about who we are and our place in the world. 

I have made jewellery since I was a child, gathering beads, buttons, 

pebbles and shells and making strings of long necklaces and bracelets 

to hold close to me. Over time my jewellery started to be in demand, 

and when I came back to London after spells working in Asia I would 

have requests from friends to make pieces – some would bring boxes of 

treasures they had found on the beach or gathered on travels, and with 

my little drill I would string these stories together to make pieces they 

could wear out of all their souvenirs. 

I remember one summer when I was working with Burmese refugees in 

Thailand and then went on to have my first show at Paris Fashion Week, I 

was astounded that people could think of such frivolous things as clothes 

and jewellery when there were so many terrible things happening in the 

world. I have since found a sense of balance and understanding that all 

these different realities do co-exist. 

I started to sell to a few shops like the Cross in Notting Hill Gate and 

Harvey Nichols in Knightsbridge, as well as Barneys in New York. I was 

working with shells, rough crystals and river-tumbled gems that I would 

drill and string. I later started to work with a Nepalese silversmith and 

designed collections that were inspired by ancient Greek and Japanese 

jewellery, and by the tribal pieces I had seen the ladies and men wearing 

in the communities I spent time with. I started to work in Jaipur about 

15 years ago – finding a team of goldsmiths and stonecutters whose work 

was beautiful, as well as finding India a constant source of inspiration. 

The appreciation grew and I started to sell more and split my time 

between working with local NGOs in Asia and designing jewellery. Then 

about nine years ago, a friend – the gallerist Rebecca Hossack – suggested 

I go and work in Botswana with the San Bushmen of the Kalahari. It was 

a wonderful experience, and I ran a workshop on craft with the women 

– we worked with leather, ostrich beads and traded glass beads, making 

jewellery with porcupine quills, eggshells and pieces of scented wood, and 

bags of leather decorated with coloured beads. 

I went back the following summer and we made a collection of pieces 

to put on show at an exhibition in London, as well as a film to show where 

the pieces came from. I realised that there was a way of working with 

people that generated a much-needed income, allowing them to open a 

local market for tourists who came to the national parks nearby, and also 

most importantly giving the men and women a sense of self-confidence – 

they were proud their work was being bought and taken to London, and 

that people would see who they were and where they came from. 

In between my Botswana work I was hired to design for Tom Ford at 

Gucci – it was a great honour and took me a long time to believe they 

had not made a mistake! I was given free rein to design using colour; 

a more handmade feel that one usually does not associate with Gucci; 

and more organic forms. It was a wonderful job and I learnt a great deal 

about working for a big company, working with a team and making full 

collections. I then went on to design for Chloe under Phoebe Philo, 

and I made collections for Nicole Farhi, Bamford and later started to 

collaborate with ethical brand, MADE. 

I jumped at the chance of going to Panama and working with the Kuna 

Indians, and I worked for a few years with the Kuna in Kuna Yala, drawing 

from their traditional techniques and design of flat gold sheet cut into 

wonderful birds, fish and plant forms. We made beautiful collections of 

gold chains with cascading butterflies, birds, stars and moons. It was an 

amazing experience working with them. 

Four years ago I was asked by the charity Turquoise Mountain to go to 

Kabul and design a collection with local craftsman and to teach a little 

at their school, and about a year later I started to work in Bolivia with a 

gold mine that was being primed to become one of the first Fairtrade gold 

�

68 

DESIGNER 

mines. It is a small artisanal mine in the Yungas and it was finally certified 

in February this year. 

So this is a part of my story and how it has taken me around the world. 

Which experiences stand out the most for you? 

My most amazing experiences are spending time with a group of hunters 

in Sarawak, while researching illegal logging on their land – they live 

deep in the rainforest and it was an incredible experience staying with 

them and spending time in the jungle. Also the friendships I have built 

up with the craftsman in Kabul – despite all the barriers of culture, 

religion, gender and war, I have grown so close to them and so enjoyed 

working with them. Working with Tom Ford was also a thrill, but what 

I am most proud of is having been made an ambassador of the charity 

Survival International, which works with tribal people all over the world 

campaigning for their rights. 

Where have you travelled to most recently? 

I was in Uzbekistan – a place I have wanted to go for years, with tales of 

Samarkand, Bukhara long filling my imagination. I went to see if it would 

be possible to work with craftsman there on a silver jewellery collection, 

but the export laws are very difficult. I did come away so inspired by 

their textiles, however, and I hope to do some work with them. The old 

jewellery of Uzbekistan is beautiful and full of talismanic properties – they 

used lots of turquoise, coral and agates and it is bold and very beautiful. 

What creative path have you taken to reach your current jewellery design 

style? Can you describe your stream of consciousness in terms of influences, 

inspirations and development of ideas? 

I have been inspired by the people I meet; tribal design; ancient design; the 

natural world; formations from nature; the materials I work with – stones and 

rocks, pebbles and crystals; and the cultures I have been so lucky to work in. 

If I am working in another country I try and research their traditional 

techniques, materials and design aesthetics before I go to the place. I 

try and draw from their historical and traditional styles and interpret 

them in a way that I think will speak to the audiences in the west. It is a 

collaborative method carried out with the craftsmen I work with. 

I find a theme – something that interests me, for example the moon. 

During the 40-year anniversary of the Apollo I made a collection from 

mother of pearl, moonstones and white marble to celebrate the moon and 

also to restore the magic that was robbed when man landed on the moon. 

This year the collection from Afghanistan was very inspired by the 

Baroque influence of the early moguls who came from Afghanistan and 

made their way to India – using bright coloured stones, and all the gems 

from the country. 

Which precious metals and gemstones do you most enjoy working with? 

I love gold – I have been working in India for 15 years now and their love 

of gold has rubbed off. It is warm and soft, and it represents the sun and 

is very auspicious – the high carat we use wraps itself around the stones 

and holds them so smoothly. Also rock crystal – a mineral that is found 

throughout the world and is common and cheap but filled with such 

mystery. I love crystals full of inclusions and rainbows. 

Who do you design your jewellery for? 

I suppose ultimately I design for myself – what I choose to wear I hope 

will also appeal to someone else. I have a great belief in the power of 

rocks – their ability to comfort and the way they bring the earth close to us 

and seem by their beauty and strength to protect us. I also think jewellery 

is very much about memory in the west and has so many complex 

sentimental attachments for us. 

Where next for Pippa Small? 

Next – there are many things on the cards. Another collection in 

Afghanistan; a trip to Ghana to meet with gold miners who are entering 

the Fairtrade process; maybe a trip to the Central African Republic to 

work with the pygmies on some jewellery… many potential projects! 

“If I am working in another country 

I try and research their traditional 

techniques, materials and design 

aesthetics before I go to the place”

70 

HOW DO THEy DO THAT? 

X-ray fluorescence testing 

The Birmingham Assay Office has had to 

adapt to changes in the market throughout 

its history, and particularly in the last two 

decades. A prime example is the way that 

items are ‘sampled’ and tested, or ‘assayed’, 

to check the fineness of all components 

of the article prior to hallmarking. 

Technical director Dippal Manchanda 

explains how this process has changed 

Until the latter part of the 20 th century 

the majority of items submitted for 

hallmarking were presented unfinished, 

and the removal of a minute sample of 

metal for assaying did not create too much of 

a problem as the customer had yet to ‘finish’ 

the item. However, the steady increase in 

imported items and the decline in the volume 

UK jewellery manufacturing trade in the 

late 1990s resulted in an influx of finished, 

highly polished goods from overseas for 

hallmarking. This presented the UK assay 

offices with an unprecedented challenge. 

Suddenly hallmarking parcels consisted 

predominately of complete, finished products, 

destined to be shipped straight to the retailer 

or importer, as opposed to semi-finished 

items awaiting polishing and finishing by the 

UK manufacturer.

Up to this point all sampling and assaying 

was carried out by physically scraping off tiny 

amounts of metal from the article and then 

testing it using one of the traditional referee 

methods: cupellation for gold, potentiometric 

titration for silver, and ICP/AAS based 

technique for platinum. 

X-ray fluorescence (XRF) testing was already 

being used within the jewellery industry to 

determine plating thickness, and this was 

identified as a possible alternative method, 

more suited to the new demands of the 

market. Recognising the need to develop more 

appropriate techniques, the assay offices sought 

expertise from the XRF manufacturers and 

worked closely with them to adapt the software 

driving the XRF technology, and therefore to 

create equipment to meet their needs. 

The criteria were that the results must be 

accurate, repeatable, consistent and userfriendly 

for their staff. In order to deliver 

this the XRF unit had to be able to accurately 

identify 100 per cent of elements of interest. 

This was successfully delivered, and since 

the beginning of the 21 st century XRF has 

become the standard recognised for assaying 

for hallmarking. As well as being conducted 

without damage to the product, assaying by 

XRF means that an item can quickly be tested 

in several places to check that solders and 

fastenings are compliant with the Hallmarking 

Act. XRF also has the benefit of being more 

environmentally friendly than the traditional 

cupellation method, which requires the use of 

lead and energy-hungry melting furnaces. 

To explain the XRF process in simple 

terms, the machine emits a concentrated 

beam of X-rays onto a focused spot. The size 

of this target is adjusted by the operator, 

who has different sizes to select from, always 

aiming to choose the largest possible ‘spot 

size’ where the item has a flat surface to 

receive the beams evenly. 

The X-rays penetrate the surface of the 

material and ‘excite’ the atoms in the alloy. The 

intensity of the energy that these atoms emit 

is then analysed and collated automatically to 

provide a reading as to the percentage of each 

element in the item. 

If used and calibrated correctly by an 

experienced operator, XRF can produce 

extremely accurate results. Accuracy is 

maintained by continual calibration against 

expensive reference standards and subsequent 

adjustment of the reading. The machines used 

by samplers at the Birmingham Assay Office are 

programmed to deliver confirmation that the 

article tested complies with a given test standard 

– for example nine carat yellow gold. The same 

technology with a stronger electric current and 

a longer exposure to the beams is used by the 

Laboratory to identify every element of interest 

in complicated and unusual alloys. In this case 

a highly trained technician will use his or her 

expertise to interpret the results from a graph 

and challenge every irregularity to ensure 

nothing has escaped scrutiny. 

However sophisticated the XRF equipment, 

it will never deliver a true result for a heavily 

plated item – rhodium plating on white gold 

being a classic example that continually raises 

queries. In these cases some scraping of the 

plating may be required and operators need 

to be well aware of the various scenarios which 

could result in a grossly inaccurate result. At the 

Assay Office, the sampler may occasionally have 

to resort to the traditional skills of touch acid 

testing and the referee methods of cupellation 

and titration to ensure he or she obtains a 

realistic result. 

In recent years smaller, hand held XRF 

machines have been launched onto the UK 

market and many jewellers are starting to use 

these to assess second hand jewellery. These 

will provide a useful guide to the approximate 

composition of an article but should always 

be used with caution, as they are difficult to 

calibrate, resulting in a wide ‘drift’ of results. 

Particular care should be taken when assessing 

items with curved surfaces which do not make 

equal contact with the ‘window’ of the machine. 

Such equipment is not yet sufficiently accurate 

to deserve a place in the strict process necessary 

for the UK’s negative tolerance hallmarking 

regime. However, the development of XRF 

and the software associated with it continues to 

move on and it certainly has not realised its full 

potential for the jewellery industry just yet. 

HOW DO THEy DO THAT? 71 

FOCuS On THE ExPErT 

Dippal Manchanda 

MSc CSci CChem FrSC 

Dippal manchanda is 

the chief assayer and 

technical director at 

the birmingham Assay 

Office, responsible 

for maintaining high 

analytical standards and 

providing scientific and 

technical expertise in all 

divisions of the business. 

Dippal holds a masters 

degree (mSc) in inorganic 

chemistry and has over 

26 years of experience 

in assaying and the 

examination of precious 

metals and alloys. He is 

also a fellow of the Royal 

Society of Chemistry 

and has attained the 

level of membership of 

‘Chartered Chemist’. The 

UK Science Council has 

awarded him the status 

of ‘Chartered Scientist’, 

a recognition awarded 

to those scientists 

who demonstrate the 

application to stay up-todate 

in their field. 

The birmingham Assay 

Office was founded 

in 1773 to provide a 

hallmarking facility to 

the rapidly expanding 

local silver trade. Over 

235 years it has become 

established as the largest 

UK assay office. During 

the past decade the 

Assay Office has expanded 

its services further, far 

beyond its statutory 

assaying and hallmarking 

duties, and offers 

independent expert opinion 

on every aspect of the 

precious metal, jewellery 

and gemstone trade. for 

more information visit

your sHop door 

If you’re not 

buyIng gold 

you’re mIssIng out 

on easy profIt 

use gold buying Centres to help 

maximise your profits. 

a range of free 

p.o.s. material and stationery 

postage paid delivery on your metals 

payment by return 

on-going help and advice 

5 southgate street • gloucester gl1 1tg 

tel: 01452 411249 email: gbc@milesmann.co.uk

Safety 

first 

Preventing and dealing 

with accidents in your store, 

and therefore avoiding 

injury claims, is largely 

down to commonsense, but 

Russell Jones of Fidler & 

Pepper Solicitors provides 

some useful pointers 

bUSINESS 75 

I’m often asked to make claims for people who are injured, so as a 

poacher turned gamekeeper I would hope to give you some insight into 

the process of injury claims and what you can do to stop claims being 

made by people who are on your premises, or what to do if you find 

yourself on the receiving end of a claim. 

Often the UK has been described as being gripped by a compensation 

culture, and there is a fear that no matter what you do, people will claim. 

In fact the statistics don’t bear this out, although it’s fair to say that ‘Joe 

Public’ now knows more about what he can do and when he can do it than 

ever before. 

A lot of what comes next is simple commonsense, and in fact most 

of the law comes from this ‘commonsense’, having originally been 

established by courts hearing these types of cases over the last few 

centuries, although it has been added to at various times by statute to give 

some guidance to owners and users alike. 

What duty do you owe your customers? 

Well, you must keep them safe while they are in your premises. That 

might seem to be a given, but judging by some of the accident claims I 

have been involved in, you wouldn’t think so. 

It doesn’t mean you have to give them a personal bodyguard, 

but equally you don’t want to set mantraps at every corner. In our 

offices we often ask our staff to give their honest opinion on things, 

as sometimes familiarity breeds contempt and also allows dangerous 

practices to go unreported. 

Can you really afford to turn a blind eye to things you know are wrong, 

on the basis that an accident hasn’t happened yet and it’s been like that 

for the last five years so? Well, my advice would be to give your premises 

an honest health and safety appraisal. 

• Do those cluttered aisles need tidying up? 

• Have I left anything on the floor that someone could trip over? 

• Does that glass shelf really need to be at eye level? 

• What happens when it’s wet outside? 

• Does my beautiful marble floor have to be covered with a slide-proof 

rug or will a ‘wet floor’ sign save me from customers slipping over? 

• Is the torn and tattered carpet/lino at the door really helping my shop’s 

image? Let alone allowing anyone trying to do business with me the 

opportunity to enter without falling head long into the shop? 

�

76 

bUSINESS 

Most of us know the answers to these questions already, and you know 

what’s right and what’s wrong with your premises, and what’s likely to 

cause accident claims. In these difficult economic times it’s easy to say: 

“We’ll get it fixed in next year’s budget as we can’t afford to do it now,” 

however it usually costs far less to fix these simple things than it does 

to settle a claim by a visitor. Furthermore, the things that cause hazards 

to visitors are often eyesores anyway, so sorting them out can help your 

business more directly. 

What do you do if an accident happens? 

The best thing is to respond to the situation rationally; it really doesn’t 

help to start arguing with the customer. But you should take notice of 

what is happening – all accidents must be recorded in your accident book, 

which may well be dusty and hidden in a dark corner! 

You don’t need to be Sherlock Holmes, but the time, the date and the 

customer’s contact details would be good, together with an honest and fair 

description of the accident. If someone was with the customer ask for their 

contact details as well, or any witnesses who would share their details. 

Try to avoid any excuses at this stage. If the carpet really was torn to 

shreds and should have been replaced then say so. There isn’t any point 

in saying anything different. Equally, if things were fine then record it like 

that, and, even better, take a photograph on your mobile phone. While 

these have been invaluable to claimants I have dealt with, equally you 

shouldn’t be shy of taking some photos yourself. Don’t tidy things up if it 

looks a bit messy, however, as untidiness doesn’t necessarily mean that any 

claim would win against you, but an accusation that you have carried out a 

spring-clean before taking photos certainly wouldn’t help your case. 

Call an ambulance if you think one is needed – most people get up 

hurriedly when they fall over and don’t want to make a fuss, but it is 

important that they feel looked after as their custom is valuable to you, 

so if you really think they should go to hospital tell them so and make 

arrangements if necessary. 

Statistics really do say that a lot of clients either wanted someone to 

care or just a simple apology for what happened, despite what you may 

have read elsewhere. For example, it’s amazing how many of the claims 

against hospitals I handle are by people who only want an explanation 

and for someone to say they are sorry; they didn’t get this and the anger 

and frustration that is generated is often what sends them into the 

claim process. The health authorities have finally realised this fact and 

have consequently set up a system for an explanation and apology to be 

provided before the court claims start. 

Once everything is sorted and the accident book is completed I would 

recommend writing a short note of your memory of the occurrence, as it 

happened, and just slip it inside the book. Hopefully you won’t be having 

many incidents like this so you won’t need to be writing these every day; 

five minutes now might save a lot of hassle later if a claim is sought. 

Use this opportunity to then have another look at your premises. Was it 

your fault? Could you have done something better? If the answer to either 

of those questions is ‘yes’, then get something done about it now – after 

all, maintaining a safe environment and keeping your customers in one 

piece will make them happy enough to spend with you, and that’s what 

trading is all about. 

Russell Jones is a specialist claims solicitor and senior partner at fidler & Pepper 

Solicitors (www.fidler.co.uk). for any help or advice on claims or how to protect your 

business, you can give him a call on 01623 451 111. 

Statistics really do 

say that a lot of 

clients either wanted 

someone to care or 

just a simple apology 

for what happened, 

despite what you may 

have read elsewhere

78 

SELLING 

Repairs 

mean sales 

Since you are 

talking about 

repairs, don’t 

miss this 

opportunity 

– remember 

to volunteer 

to clean any 

other jewellery 

the customer 

may have 

Leonard Zell reminds jewellers of the 

potential for transforming jewellery 

repair enquiries into valuable sales 

How many times have I overheard 

customers being directed straight to the 

repair department with their damaged 

jewellery? Too many times. Do jewellers 

really know how much in lost sales this costs 

them? Of course not, otherwise they would 

stop doing it. 

Some jewellers pass this off by saying that 

their colleagues in the repairs department will 

know when there is potential for a sale, and 

will find a salesperson to deal with the enquiry. 

What I want to know is why the judgment is left 

up to those colleagues, when the salespeople 

are supposedly trained to know if repairs can 

be converted into sales? What is even worse is 

when the salesperson passes off the customer to 

the repair department, and then doesn’t even 

bother to go and follow it up. 

I have written about leaks in jewellers’ 

stores in previous issues of Jewellery Focus, 

and brushing customers off to the repair 

department is one of the biggest leaks. But 

this leak can be stopped if salespeople are 

told to take in all repairs when they are not 

busy selling. 

However, that solves one problem, but creates 

another; most salespeople have no idea what to 

look for to convert repairs into sales. Here are 

some clues: 

Worn claws and shanks: Too many 

salespeople recommend a new shank and claws 

and think a £300 sale is sufficient. Jewellers 

have no idea of the diamond sales they are 

missing. When I point this out to them their 

excuse is that their customers want their old 

ring, and so just want it to be fixed. What 

they neglected to do was to acknowledge the 

sentiment of the diamond ring, explaining 

to the customer that there will be very little 

sentiment remaining because the old shank 

and claws must be removed and replaced with 

new ones. Many customers think all you have to 

do is add gold, but now their minds are open 

and once they understand that most of the 

sentiment is lost they may be willing to look for 

an alternative option. 

You can show them how much more brilliant 

their diamonds will look in a new setting, 

because more light is allowed to come in 

through the side of them. Show them one 

of your diamond rings and how it is set, and 

have them try it on. Since their financial 

circumstances may have changed since the old 

ring was purchased, they may be ready to buy a 

larger diamond. 

More repairs: Since you are talking 

about repairs, don’t miss this opportunity – 

remember to volunteer to clean any other 

jewellery the customer may have, and tell 

him or her that you will check it for any wear, 

loose diamonds or chipped stones. If this is 

done consistently there will be a lot of sales 

generated from that steam machine. 

Watches: The potential here is enormous, 

especially for men. When they come in for 

a new battery, show them watches that are 

different to theirs, especially those with all 

the whistles and bells. Think of the millions 

of smartphones they have bought; the phone 

companies made it easy for you. Almost all men 

love toys, and the phone companies have put 

your customers in the mood to look at your 

imagination-capturing watches. Are you in the 

mood to sell them? 

Keep an eye on the repair department: 

You must be prepared to go back to the repair 

department and wait on the customers who 

went directly there. The potential for creating 

new sales is enormous, and why miss out on 

diamond sales? 

you will see how to create sales from repairs explained in further detail in Leonard’s 180-page sales manual on proven jewellery selling 

techniques. And for the perfect complement, order – a full day’s sales training seminar recorded live on three CDs. Order 

at 

Leonard Zell has been training fine jewellers around the world for 25 years. He will be conducting sales seminars in the UK this autumn. To 

find more about his sales training seminars go to his website, , email him at , or call him in the US on 001 503 

412 9521 after 4pm UK time.

Subscribe now! 

to 

Jewellery 

FO C U S 

Where else can you enjoy the adventures of Keith Fisher in the world of watches, take a 

tour around a month’s worth of treasure with Janet Fitch and read the advice you know 

you can trust from Leonard Zell, plus get a heads-up on all the latest trends, products and 

services all in one package? 

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80 

INDUSTRy DATA 

PRICES • fIGURES • OUTLOOK 

retail sales volume: June 2011 

When compared to the previous month, June saw the value of 

retail sales increase by 0.3 per cent and the volume by 0.7 per 

cent. Year-on-year the value of sales rose four per cent and the 

volume 0.4 per cent. 

Between June 2010 and June 2011, the main downward pressure 

on sales came from the predominantly food store sector, which 

decreased by 4.2 per cent; the largest fall since records began 

in 1988. Upward pressure came from predominantly non-food 

stores, which rose by 0.9 per cent, and motor fuel, which rose by 

3.1 per cent. However, the greatest upward pressure came from 

non-store retailing, which posted a staggering rise of a record 

24.4 per cent. 

Approximately £32.1 billion was spent on retail goods during June 

2011, up by £1.2 billion from the same period a year ago. 

Source: ONS 

Jun Aug Oct Dec Feb Apr Jun 

2010 2011 

Seasonally adjusted figures 

Metal prices Jun 11 Jul 11 Aug 11 Change 

Sterling silver (£/Kg) 670.20 654.11 722.02 Plus 10% 

Gold (£/g) 30.22 30.35 33.16 Plus 9% 

Palladium (£/g) 15.56 15.42 15.29 Minus 1% 

Platinum (£/g) 35.79 34.70 34.60 No Change 

Rhodium (£/g) 42.74 40.22 37.94 Minus 6% 

Iridium (£/g) 20.69 21.11 20.76 Minus 2% 

Ruthenium (£/g) 3.55 3.62 3.50 Minus 3% 

Scrap metal prices Jun 11 Jul 11 Aug 11 Change 

Sterling silver scrap (£/kg) 629.26 614.15 677.92 Plus 10% 

9ct Gold scrap (£/g) 10.93 10.98 12.00 Plus 9% 




Platinum (95%) scrap (£/g) 28.90 28.02 27.94 No Change 

Data supplied courtesy of Cookson Precious Metals. www.cooksongold.com 

All prices shown on this page enjoy indicative status only. Jewellery Focus and Cookson Precious Metals 

accepts no responsibility for their accuracy or for any use to which they may be put 

Diamond prices 

Weight G/vvS G/SI J/vvS J/SI J/I1 

0.05 Carat 1,706 938 1,177 853 751 

0.10 Carat 1,638 1,045 1,579 936 702 

0.25 Carat 2,647 1,462 2,212 1,243 848 

0.50 Carat 7,421 3,393 4,594 2,969 2,544 

0.75 Carat 8,940 5,596 5,801 4,095 3,276 

1.00 Carat 15,793 8,423 10,611 6,844 4,475 

The table above has been prepared by SafeGuard and is an average of the retail selling prices of round brilliant 

cut diamonds per carat including an average retail markup and VAT. There is no allowance for the mount but 

the prices have been taken from mounted goods prices. The table is also compared with International diamond 

prices for additional accuracy. 

Compiled at 8th August 2011 / Dollar Exchange rate 1.6412

Silver 

Gold 

Platinum 

Palladium 

Hallmark figures 

July 10 July 11 variance % 

999 537 1,134 597 111.2 

958 1,349 386 -963 -71.4 

925 707,903 485,952 -221,951 -31.4 

800 85 30 -55 -64.7 

709,874 487,502 -222,372 -31.3 

999 20 51 31 155.0 

990 14 0 -14 -100.0 

916 28,583 30,742 2,159 7.6 

750 91,662 81,938 -9,724 -10.6 

585 24,224 8,995 -15,229 -62.9 

375 291,714 255,158 -36,556 -12.5 

436,217 376,884 -59,333 -13.6 

999 10 5 -5 -50.0 

950 21,950 21,820 -130 -0.6 

900 8 14 6 75.0 

850 3 2 -1 -33.3 

21,971 21,841 -130 -0.6 

999 3 0 -3 -100.0 

950 9,317 8,747 -570 -6.1 

500 – 1,041 1,041 100.0 

9,320 9,788 468 5.0 

Total 1,177,382 896,015 -281,367 -23.9 

The July hallmarking statistics show a similar pattern to the previous 

month, with the total number of units hallmarked down 23.9 per cent 

compared to July 2010 – a total of 896,015 units were hallmarked 

across the four UK assay offices, compared with 1,177,382 in July 

2010. Total gold items hallmarked were down 13.6 per cent, while the 

total number of silver articles hallmarked was 487,502 compared to 

709,874 last year, a drop of 31 per cent. This is not surprising given 

that the average price of silver during the month reached £23.50 per 

troy oz, compared with an average of £11.75 per troy oz in July 2010. 

Platinum was flat while palladium showed a small growth of five per cent. 

INDUSTRy DATA 81

82 

EvENTS AND AUCTIONS 

Events 

26 – 30 August 

Tendence 

4 – 7 September 

Autumn Fair International 

Messe Frankfurt 

NEC, Birmingham 

Frankfurt, Germany 

www.autumnfair.com 

tendence.messefrankfurt.com 

28 – 30 August 

JAA International Jewellery Fair 

Sydney Exhibition Centre 


International Jewellery London 

Earls Court 2, London 

www.jewellerylondon.com 

Darling Harbour 

Sydney, Australia 


www.internationaljewelleryfair.com.au VICENZAORO Choice 


Japan Jewellery Fair 

Fiera di Vicenza 

Vicenza, Italy 

www.vicenzafiera.it 

Tokyo Big Sight Exhibition Center 

Tokyo, Japan 


www.japanjewelleryfair.com 

Junwex Moscow 


Times Glamour 

All-Russian Exhibition Centre 

Moscow, Russia 

www.eng.rjexpert.ru 

Vivanta by Taj President 

South Bombay, India 


www.timesglamour.com 

Scotland’s Trade Fair Autumn 


Eclat de Mode 

The SECC 

Glasgow 

www.scotlandstradefairs.co.uk 

Paris Porte de Versailles 

Paris, France 

19 – 23 & 21 – 25 September 

www.bijorhca.com 

September Hong Kong 


MIDORA Leipzig 

Leipzig Exhibition Centre 

Leipsic, Germany 

www.midora.de 

Jewellery and Gem Fair 

AsiaWorld-Expo & Hong 

Kong Convention and 

Exhibition Centre 

Hong Kong 

www.jewellerynetasia.com/en/fairs.html 

Auction dates 

13 September 

6 September 

Campbells 

Jewellery, silver, clocks 

and watches 

Worthing, West Sussex 

www.campbellsauctions.co.uk 

7 September 

Bonhams 

Jewellery 

Knightsbridge, London 

www.bonhams.com 

8 September 

Bonhams 

Jewellery and silver 

Edinburgh 


9 September 

Wellers Auctioneers 

Jewellery, watches, 

silver and clocks 

Chertsey 

Surrey 

www.wellersauctions.com 

10 September 

Kent Auction Galleries Ltd 

Victorian and later effects, 

including jewellery, 

silver and coins 

Folkestone 

Kent 

www.kentauctiongalleriesltd.co.uk 

Bonhams 

Jewellery 

Oxford 


20 September 

Capes Dunn 

Antique jewellery, silver, 

watches, wares and coins 

Manchester 

www.capesdunn.com 

21 September 

Bonhams 

Fine jewellery 

New Bond Street, London 


23 September 


Pawnbroker and secondhand 

jewellery 

Chertsey 

Surrey 


24 September 






Kent 



Costume Jewellery and 

Accessories Salon 

Manezh Exhibition Complex 

Moscow 

Russia 

www.gifts-expo.com/eng/salons/3.html 


Portojóia 

Porto International Fair 

Oporto, Portugal 

www.portojoia.exponor.pt 

30 September – 3 October 

INTERGEM 

Messe Idar-Oberstein 

Idar-Oberstein 

Germany 

www.intergem-messe.de 

6 – 9 October 

Liverpool Design Festival 

St George’s Hall, Liverpool 

www.liverpooldesignfestival.com 

4 October 

Dreweatts 1759 

Jewellery, silver, 

watches and coins 

Bristol 

www.dnfa.com 



Jewellery, watches, 

silver and clocks 

Chertsey, Surrey 







Folkestone, Kent 



Campbells 

Jewellery, silver, clocks 

and watches 

Worthing, West Sussex 

www.campbellsauctions.co.uk 



Antiques and fine arts, including 

jewellery, silver and coins 

Folkestone, Kent 



10 – 13 November 

Malaysia Jewellery Festival Dubai International Jewellery Week 

Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre Dubai International Convention 

Kuala Lumpur, Malaya and Exhibition Centre 

www.mij.com.my/MJF 

Dubai, United Arab Emirates 


www.jewelleryshow.com 

ZAK Jewels Expo 

18 – 20 November 

Vivanta by Taj Connemara Desire Jewellery and 

Madras, India 

Silversmithing Fair 

www.zakjewelsexpo.com 

Guildhall Winchester, Winchester 


www.desirefair.com 

Jewelers International 2 – 5 December 

Showcase 

China International Gold, 

Miami Beach Convention Center Jewellery and Gem Fair 

Miami, Florida, United States Shanghai World Expo Theme 

www.jisshow.com 

Pavilion, Shanghai, China 


www.jewellerynetasia.com/en/fairs.html 

Jewelers International 3 – 11 December 

Showcase 

VICENZANTIQUARIA 

Caesars Palace, Las Vegas, Fiera di Vicenza 

Nevada, United States Vicenza, Italy 

www.jisshow.com 

www.vicenzafiera.it 



Pawnbroker and secondhand 

jewellery 

Chertsey 

Surrey 


3 November 

Bonhams 

Jewellery 

Knightsbridge, London 


4 November 

Bonhams 

Jewellery 



5 November 

Bonhams 

Jewellery 

Knightsbridge 

London 


5 November 






Kent 


8 November 

Bonhams 

Jewellery 



11 November 

Jacobs & Hunt 

Silver and jewellery 

Petersfield, Hampshire 

www.jacobsandhunt.com 

11 November 


Jewellery and watches 

Chertsey, Surrey 


22 November 

A F Brock & Company Limited 

Jewellery, watches 

and silverware 

Hazel Grove, Stockport, Cheshire 

www.afbrock.co.uk 

Image: MIDORA Leipzig

AMBER JEWELLERY 

DIRECTORy 83 

DIRECTORy 

To advertise in this section please call our sales team now on 01206 767797 

ANTIQUE REPRODUCTION 

ASSAYERS BULLION DEALERS 



BARCODINg, LABELLINg & PRINTINg 

BARCODINg, LABELLINg & PRINTINg 

BEADS 

Totally Wholesale 

Burhouse Beads is the UK’s largest 

wholesale supplier of gemstones, 

jewellery findings and components. 

Specialising in fresh water pearls and high 

quality bead strings. We also offer a full 

range of associated hardware and tools. 

Visit: www.burhousebeads.co.uk 

Burhouse Beads, Quarmby Mills, Tanyard Road, Oakes, 

Huddersfield West Yorkshire, England HD3 4YP 

Tel: +44 (0)1484 485100 Fax: 44 (0)1484 462696 

Email: sales@burhousebeads.com 

BOXES, PADS & PACKAgINg

84 

CAD/CAM 

CASTINg 

DIRECTORy 

BOXES, PADS & PACKAgINg 

O 

& C., 

ROEDER HOUSE, VALE ROAD LONDON N4 1QA 

EMAIL: info@justbros.co.uk 

WEB: www.justbros.co.uk 

Tel: 020 8880 2505 - Fax: 020 8802 0062 

ONE OF THE WORLD’S LEADING 

PACKAGING STOCKISTS 

PRESENTATION CASES BOXES 

POUCHES WINDOW DISPLAY 

BESPOKE PACKAGING 

SUNDRIES TICKETS 

ARCHCROWN TAGS 

CARRIER BAGS LIGHTWEIGHT 

STOCK TRAYS 

CASTINg 

CASTINgS & FINDINgS 

CHARMS 

CLOCK DISTRIBUTORS 

CONTEMPORARY JEWELLERY 

CONTEMPORARY JEWELLERY 

DESIgN & MANUFACTURINg SERVICE

DIAMOND SETTINgS DIAMONDS 

Want to advertise 

in the Directory? 

Then call now on 

01206 767 797 

DIAMONDS 

ENAMELLERS 

ENgRAVERS 

FASHION JEWELLERY 

DIRECTORy 85 

FRESH WATER PEARLS 

gEMSTONES 

CP2636 Jeweller (Dec 09):Jeweller (Dec 09) 24/11/09 12:38 Page 14 



CP2636 Jeweller (Dec 09):Jeweller (Dec 09) 24/11/09 12:38 Page 14

86 

DIRECTORy 

gEMSTONES gEMSTONES 

gOLD & SILVER JEWELLERY 

HANDMADE JEWELLERY 

JADE JEWELLERY 

JEWELLERS TOOLS 

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS 

JEWELLERY EQUIPMENT

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS 

JEWELLERY POLISHERS 

JEWELLERY REPAIRS 

JEWELLERY REPAIRS 

MASONIC JEWELLERY 

PEARLS, CULTURED 

PEARLS, CULTURED 

PERSONALISED JEWELLERY 

PERSPEX DISPLAY 

PHOTOgRAPHIC EQUIPMENT 

DIRECTORy 87 

PHOTOgRAPHY 

PLATINUM, CHAINS 

PLATINUM SPECIALISTS 

POLISHINg 

Want to advertise 

in the Directory? 

Then call Jewellery 

focus now on 

01206 767 797

88 

RESTRINgINg 

SCRAP PURCHASE 

SECURITY 

DIRECTORy 

SHOPFITTINg SHOPFITTINg 

�� 

�� 

Full shop refurbishment service 

Unique hardwood points of sale 

Fabulous lighting 

Bespoke display cabinets 

Watts Design, Barnstaple, Devon EX31 4EN 

Tel: 0844 5611932 or 01598 710215 

Email: info@wattsdesign.co.uk 

www.wattsdesign.co.uk 

Want to advertise in the Directory? 

Then call Jewellery focus now on 01206 767 797 

SIgNET RINgS 

SILVER JEWELLERY 

TROPHIES & MEDALS 

WATCH REPAIRS 

WATCHES 

Repair Services 

Is your Rolex watch 

bracelet stretched 

and worn? 

rolex specialist 

bqw 

At BQ Watches we 

can make it look 

brand NEW 

We now specialise in the repair and 

refurbishment of Gold Rolex Watch Bracelets 

Call now for a FREE Quotation 

020 8731 2566 

www.bqwatches.com

WATCHES 

WEBSITE DESIgN 

RECRUITMENT 

WEDDINg RINgS 

NOTICEBOARD 

DIRECTORy 89

90 

yOUR vIEWS 

voice on highstreet 

the 

KARIM MERCHANT of 

Identity the Jewellers, Derby 

Could you explain a bit about the history of Identity? 

We are a new enterprise that opened in the Westfield Centre 

in Derby on the 9 October 2007. The main aim of Identity 

is to sell quality jewellery and gifts not currently available 

in Derby. We mainly target the male audience and have a 

very wide, diverse range of men’s jewellery. However, since 

opening we have expanded and now also offer a large choice 

of women’s jewellery. 

Identity the Jewellers has developed from many years of 

research and experience. Sterling silver is our preferred 

material, but we also offer steel, tungsten, titanium, 18 carat 

gold and meteorite. 

Why did you choose to specialise in men’s jewellery? 

We wanted to have a unique selling point that would set 

us apart from other retail jewellers. When we researched 

stores around us, we saw there was not a wide range of men’s 

jewellery available to customers, despite a large variety at 

jewellery shows. This made the decision a little easier as to 

who the target audience would be for Identity the Jewellers. 

How did the Identity team members come to be involved in the 

jewellery trade? 

One of the directors, Andrew Warner, has a BA in Jewellery 

& Silversmithing and is skilled in creating individuallydesigned 

jewellery. Fellow directors were accountants 

specialising in small business. 

Is Derby a good place to do business? What do you enjoy about 

trading in the town? 

Since the opening of the Westfield Centre it has become 

very busy, with a footfall of 500,000 people a week. We seem 

to attract, as a business, a wide variety of ethnic groups 

and we take pride in getting to know different people from 

different backgrounds. 

What’s selling well at the moment? 

Cœur de Lion, Story, Unique, Trollbeads, Storywheels 

and Festina. 

You have an extensive online store – is this an essential part of 

being a 21 st century jeweller? 

Very, especially when you are an independent retailer 

with only one shop, as you want to be able to reach as 

many potential customers as possible. As we speak, we 

are completely re-designing our website to create a more 

interactive environment and set themes in place that give the 

customer a feel of actually being in the store. 

What advice would you give to someone hoping to open their own 

jewellery business? 

Be 100 per cent committed and passionate towards it. Always 

try to look for a unique selling point that no other jeweller 

can offer. Customer service is paramount, so try to offer that 

extra personal touch that chains cannot. 

Finally, what are Identity’s plans for the future? 

We are planning to expand and offer the customers of 

Westfield Derby something new that Derby as a whole 

doesn’t currently offer. All I can say is, keep a look out for 

us in the near future!

Adapting to the changing silver market, and predictions for its future

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