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Adapting to the changing silver market, and predictions for its future

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40<br />

INDUSTRy<br />

Now<br />

trending…<br />

Syreeta Tranfield, event manager <strong>for</strong><br />

IJL, catches up with Stylesight’s S<strong>and</strong>rine<br />

Maggiani <strong>and</strong> Claire Foster as <strong>the</strong>y prepare<br />

<strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir <strong>for</strong>thcoming trends seminar<br />

S<strong>and</strong>rine Maggiani<br />

Claire Foster<br />

Inspiration is key <strong>to</strong> good business – when jewellery retailers <strong>and</strong><br />

designers feel inspired, <strong>the</strong>y are at <strong>the</strong>ir best. Gaining an insight in<strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> latest trends, whe<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong>y are retailing trends or design trends, is<br />

an excellent way <strong>to</strong> feel inspired. This is <strong>the</strong> reason we provide specialist<br />

trend <strong>for</strong>ecasting at International Jewellery London (IJL).<br />

Leading international agency Stylesight is presenting a trends seminar<br />

this year. I interviewed speakers S<strong>and</strong>rine Maggiani, European trend<br />

direc<strong>to</strong>r, <strong>and</strong> Claire Foster, accessories edi<strong>to</strong>r, ahead of <strong>the</strong> show.<br />

What will you present at IJL?<br />

S<strong>and</strong>rine: Stylesight will present A/W 12 Megatrends + Jewellery, offering<br />

an in-depth look at <strong>the</strong> overarching trends influencing design <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

A/W 2012 season, with a focus on <strong>the</strong> subsequent design directives <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

jewellery <strong>and</strong> accessories <strong>market</strong>. The four trends presented will be Raw<br />

Energy, Sensing Matter, Wild Craft <strong>and</strong> Digital Dimension.<br />

Lots of retailers come <strong>to</strong> IJL <strong>to</strong> source products <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> Christmas period.<br />

What will be <strong>the</strong> hot trends <strong>for</strong> Christmas in terms of jewellery design?<br />

Claire: For Christmas, we will see a return <strong>to</strong> simple constructions <strong>and</strong><br />

a celebration of st<strong>and</strong>out gems<strong>to</strong>nes. Geometric, modernist <strong>the</strong>mes<br />

intercept settings <strong>and</strong> design details. Clusters of mixed colours <strong>and</strong><br />

materials evolve <strong>the</strong> classic holiday season showpieces <strong>to</strong> create a<br />

contemporary aes<strong>the</strong>tic. Layered s<strong>to</strong>nes <strong>and</strong> fresh placement update<br />

cocktail rings <strong>and</strong> statement neckpieces.<br />

Please could you give us an insight in<strong>to</strong> some of <strong>the</strong> jewellery trends we can<br />

expect <strong>to</strong> see in 2012?<br />

Claire: A focus on natural elements brings a new attitude <strong>to</strong> raw minerals,<br />

with marble <strong>and</strong> wood being used <strong>to</strong> reflect wild craft <strong>and</strong> raw energy<br />

<strong>the</strong>mes. Natural lea<strong>the</strong>r <strong>and</strong> warm <strong>to</strong>ned metals are also emerging as<br />

important materials <strong>for</strong> jewellery designs, confirming <strong>the</strong> shift <strong>to</strong> noble,<br />

honest concepts that relate <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> human sensibility. Colour palettes <strong>for</strong><br />

decorative flourishes <strong>and</strong> foundation materials take reference from <strong>the</strong><br />

great outdoors, celebrating <strong>the</strong> unique <strong>to</strong>nes found in nature.<br />

An introspective viewpoint also evokes a new <strong>the</strong>me centered around <strong>the</strong><br />

human body, with ana<strong>to</strong>mical keynotes inspiring new jewellery structures.<br />

Cells, bones <strong>and</strong> blood inspire <strong>and</strong> evolve previous animalistic <strong>the</strong>mes <strong>to</strong><br />

set a more graphic look. Laser cut or intricately<br />

constructed cuffs, collars <strong>and</strong> rings are a<br />

directional adaptation of some of <strong>the</strong>se key items.<br />

Cosmetic <strong>to</strong>nes ground this look, which also<br />

features highlights of deep reds, <strong>and</strong> fiery hues.<br />

Speaking <strong>to</strong> a truly futuristic <strong>the</strong>me, digital<br />

design contributes <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> new fluidity <strong>and</strong> rapid<br />

pro<strong>to</strong>typing silhouette direction. Innovative<br />

materials, such as matte finish metals, plastics<br />

<strong>and</strong> ceramics, are key. This new feminine<br />

aes<strong>the</strong>tic can be applied <strong>to</strong> statement jewellery<br />

pieces from neckpieces <strong>to</strong> structured bangles.<br />

Why is an underst<strong>and</strong>ing of <strong>the</strong> trends so important<br />

<strong>to</strong> both manufacturers <strong>and</strong> retail jewellers?<br />

Claire: Underst<strong>and</strong>ing <strong>and</strong> developing <strong>the</strong><br />

trends <strong>for</strong> your cus<strong>to</strong>mer is an essential part of<br />

<strong>the</strong> process <strong>the</strong>se days, as a huge majority of<br />

consumers are increasingly fashion <strong>and</strong> trend<br />

savvy <strong>and</strong> so know what seems new, <strong>and</strong> what<br />

<strong>the</strong>y have already bought in<strong>to</strong>. Globalisation<br />

<strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> access <strong>to</strong> unlimited references online<br />

mean that <strong>the</strong> fresh take on seasonal trends is<br />

key <strong>for</strong> designers <strong>to</strong> stay ahead <strong>and</strong> make wise<br />

choices about materials, colour <strong>and</strong> design.<br />

Are <strong>the</strong>re basic rules <strong>to</strong> interpreting a trend?<br />

Claire: It is always essential <strong>to</strong> underst<strong>and</strong> your<br />

cus<strong>to</strong>mer. This means <strong>the</strong> difference between<br />

a think tank directional concept <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

outcome of that concept becoming a wearable<br />

<strong>and</strong> desirable piece of jewellery. Apply your<br />

cus<strong>to</strong>mer needs <strong>and</strong> spending hab<strong>its</strong> <strong>to</strong> develop<br />

<strong>the</strong> trend in a way tailored <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>market</strong>, with<br />

consideration <strong>to</strong> your costings <strong>and</strong> resources.<br />

At Stylesight we look <strong>for</strong> trends emerging in<br />

a number of diverse places – from <strong>the</strong> street,<br />

<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> runway, <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> vintage <strong>market</strong>s in France<br />

– so an overview of fac<strong>to</strong>rs often results in us<br />

recognising that something is happening <strong>and</strong><br />

being reported on across a number of countries,<br />

<strong>market</strong> levels <strong>and</strong> mediums, confirming initial<br />

trend directions.<br />

The Stylesight presentation is taking place at IJL on<br />

4 September at 1:45pm in <strong>the</strong> new Inspiration Theatre,<br />

<strong>and</strong> is free <strong>for</strong> visi<strong>to</strong>rs <strong>to</strong> attend.

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