Textiles - Mass Production Systems and Techniques - VEA

Textiles - Mass
Production
Systems and Techniques
Australia
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Program Support Notes
Senior Secondary - Tafe
27mins
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For Teachers:
Introduction
Textiles - Mass Production - Systems and Techniques
Showcasing the latest industrial techniques, this program offers students a fantastic insight into textile
manufacturing processes. We look at: Commercial production methods and systems, including job,
batch, quantity/mass production and JIT; Pattern laying - both hand and digitised; Cutting/marking up;
Assembly; CAD/CAM is in quality control and management information systems; Globalisation of the
textile industry - including overseas factory visits; Case studies including production of baseball hats,
sky-diving suits, airline seat covers, quilted covers, sweatshirts and more.
Other Relevant Programs Available from VEA
Textiles – Industrial Printing and Dyeing
Testing Textiles
Materials for Design – Felt
Materials for Design – Resin Jewellery
Inspiration for Design
Please visit our website for many more relevant programs www.vea.com.au
VEA – Bringing Learning to Life
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Textiles - Mass Production - Systems and Techniques
Commercial Production Methods
Individual or job production
Also referred to as “one off” production, jobbie, jobbing or making through. This is a traditional
method of production where one operator or team assembles the whole of a textile product. Each
product is a one-off, unique item, only made once in response to a brief or a specific client’s request.
Batch production
Manufacturers like Precision Stitching use job production for
their sky diving suits, as does bespoke tailor Timothy Everest.
This system enables them to produce a “tailor made” garment
designed to fit the individual client.
For example the particular characteristics of a person can be
considered in the cutting and sewing of such a garment, eg a
rounded back, extra long legs, etc.
It requires highly skilled operators, involves a high throughput
time, (i.e. takes a long time to make), is labour intensive,
and requires versatile machinery that can be adapted to
different tasks.
The end product is usually of high quality and high value.
This system of production is used for the production of a specified quantity of identical products, i.e.
not one-off and not for large quantities as in mass or volume production. Production can either be for
stock (to retain by the manufacturer in case an order is placed for the item, or for an order.
For batch production
Batch Production is flexible and can be used to produce batches of
similar products with only a small change to the tooling. Batches can
be repeated as many times as needed with products being cheaper due
to lower production costs. It also enables a variety of styles to be made.
Against batch production
It can lead to lost time during the change in production of one textile
product to another as equipment needs to be re-set after each production
run. The increased number of textile products sometimes increases stock
levels. Staff can sometimes specialise in one aspect of production and
work may therefore become repetitive and boring.
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Textiles - Mass Production - Systems and Techniques
There are different types of batch production
Progressive bundle system. This system embraces some features and advantages of the straight line
system and the section/cell system. Workers are organised into sections according to the basic
functions that make up a textile product, eg sleeves, pockets, small parts and joining seams. Eg
Sweatshirts made at Price and Buckland.
Section system. This system may be used for producing batches of textile items. Unlike the
progressive bundle system, the section system is used by factories that deal with frequent style changes
and small numbers of items per product type. Sections are located close together. Each worker
specialises in a section of the assembly line constructing a garment component, which is then
transferred to the next stage in the line.
Pros – it allows for easy product changes
Cons – requires a lot of floor space and longer through-put time.
Mass/volume or quantity production
This is used for very large orders of identical products for a relatively low cost. Machines are
continuously in use for the same style. The machine operatives will carry out the same operation daily,
eg a machinist may continuously join side seams on a style whilst another may just button hole.
It can be divided into two categories – repetitive flow production or continual flow production
Repetitive flow/ flow line production: Production is usually broken down into sub assemblies of
smaller components. This form of mass production can be labour intensive or completely automated
depending on the product. This type of production is often outsourced to the Far East and countries like
Indonesia and Cambodia. The baseball cap manufacturer in Indonesia used in the programme uses this
type of production
Continual flow: This is the uninterrupted production of a textile product along an assembly line until
it is complete. This method involves production for 24 hours a day to reduce costs because it is
expensive to shut down and re-start. Only a small work force is needed to maintain the process
Types of commercial manufacturing systems
Cell
This is when a number of workstations are grouped to produce a single component
In-line assembly
This system is used to mass product many every day items especially cars. Many in-line assembly
systems are fully automated and only require people to ensure continual flow
Off the peg manufacture
This refers to textile items which are cheaper because they are made to fit standard average sizes, not
the exact measurements of a particular individual. When making off the peg clothes the standard size
template can be used for a production run. This allows a batch of items to be made at one time,
spreading costs and making unit items less expensive. The programme shows sweatshirts being made
in this way.
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JIT
Textiles - Mass Production - Systems and Techniques
Just in Time is a system developed to ensure materials and goods arrive as they are needed, i.e.
garments will arrive at the shop just before they need to go onto the shop floor; raw materials will
arrive at the factory just before they are needed for that stage in the production. This system therefore
saves a company time and money in tied up stock and storage space.
Retailers like Top Shop and Zara use JIT to enable them to change their fashion lines quickly to
maintain their competitive edge. JIT enables them to reduce their time to market and cut the amount of
stock held in shops. Manufacturers like Precision Stitching, use JIT systems to reduce the amount of
stock they hold and the amount of time stock is held in storage so reducing costs. This enables
companies produce shorter runs in different fabrics. This requires re-negotiation with suppliers to
ensure reliable delivery of last minute orders and to maintain competitive prices, despite reductions in
bulk orders.
Logistics
This means that the production of products relies upon the availability of materials and components
when required. The case study on John Smedley, which can be found under “ICT Case Study”, is a
good example. It shows how the effective and integrated use of ICT is particularly important in
managing the “logistics” of a “forward order business”.
Preparation and marking of fabric
Hot drill
Definition
A vertical hot probe that makes small holes in fabric layers.
Use
Accurately piercing multiple layers of cut pieces to mark an
important place, eg where a dart needs to be sewn.
Dye markers
Definition
A hole is marked by a colour dye. Sometimes a fluorescent dye may be used which can only be seen
under an ultra-violet lamp.
Use
Particularly useful for marking pocket positions and dart lengths.
Hot notcher
Definition
Heat is used to mark the fabric in the correct place.
Use
This method is used for marking the edge of the fabric where notches may be seen on pattern pieces.
Because of the heat involved it is only used on knitted or natural fibres as the edges of synthetic fabrics
may fuse together.
Thread markers
Definition
A tacking thread is stitched through the layers of fabric and is cut between each layer. A fluorescent
thread may be used to enhance visibility.
Use
This method is used when a drill may damage the fabric.
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Sewing machines
Textiles - Mass Production - Systems and Techniques
Single needle sewing machine
Definition
A single needle over lock has three threads. It sews one line along a cut edge that is trimmed and
secured by the machine.
Use
It is used for close knit or woven fabrics and for edging single pieces as opposed to joining fabrics
together.
Twin needle sewing machine
Definition
A twin needle machine has a second needle so that two rows are
sewn in parallel.
Use
Because it creates a stronger seam it is necessary for more loosely
constructed fabrics where there is likely to be pressure along on the
joined seam when worn
Overlocker
Definition
An overlock machine has no bobbin; instead cones of thread are
used and threaded from the top. It creates a line (or lines) of
stitching along the edge of one or more fabrics to edge or join. It
incorporates a blade that trims the fabric close to the sewing. Top
and bottom threads are looped together ‘over’ the cut edge and
‘locked’ by the thread(s) in the sewn line(s).
Use
Particularly useful on knitted fabrics.
Electronic or computer-controlled sewing machines
They produce a vast range of decorative stitches, text as well as the basic stitches. The programme
shows them being used to embroider the sweatshirts. They are also used to embroider the base ball
caps. Information can be programmed in by the user and held in the memory which is supported by a
battery for when the machine is not connected to the mains. The machine will set the stitch length and
its width. Models vary with some allowing the user to design their own stitches and some supplying
computer disks or cartridges to extend the range of stitching
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Textiles - Mass Production - Systems and Techniques
Textiles Cutting Tools
Straight blade knife
Definition
An electric cutting knife with a straight vertically
oscillating blade. It is steered by hand and is used
round multiple layers of fabric that have been
marked out in preparation for cutting.
Use
Most types of smooth fabric that is unlikely to
snag. It will cut corners and curves accurately to a
depth of 30mm. Small to medium sized orders both
coarse and accurate cutting. Disadvantage =
quality is reliant on the skill of the cutter.
Automatic/ computer controlled cutters
Definition
These cutters are fully automated and can be used with a
choice of cutting forms to suit any fabric type and depth,
for example vertical blades, laser blades and high
pressure water jets.
Use
Because the initial outlay and installation costs for the equipment
are high, they are best used for deeper lays and high volume
orders. However once set up the process is fully automated so is
economical, accurate and fast.
Round blade knife
Definition
This is similar to a straight knife, but it has a circular blade
of about six inches diameter.
Use
The round blade knife is suitable for coarse gauge knitted
fabric that might get trapped by a vertical straight blade.
Like the straight blade knife, it is used where the lays are
shallow and for small to medium sized orders.
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Textiles - Mass Production - Systems and Techniques
Die cutter
Definition
It works much like a pastry cutter. Each die is the same shape
and size as the required pattern pieces. These are stamped out to
create identical and exact shapes.
Use
Good for stable flat fabrics that need to be cut accurately and
where very fine tolerances are needed. Also used for materials
that are difficult to cut without extreme pressure, eg leather,
laminates.
Band knives
Band knives are suitable for precision cutting to a depth of 300mm and are used with deeper lays. They
will cut corners, tight curves and pointed incisions precisely. Because the equipment is expensive, it is
best used with high volume orders which can yield significant economies of scale.
The disadvantage of this method is that the production method is slow and because the layers of fabric
are stapled together to prevent slippage, it is too reliant upon the skill of the cutter to prevent mistakes.
Quality Assurance and Quality Control
Quality assurance
Carefully defining the product’s qualities (aka the specification), creating management and production
systems to make sure these qualities are assured at every stage of design, development and production.
Quality control
The specific checks and tests carried out at various stages of production to ensure that products meet
an agreed specification. Each of the checks is called a control point.
Quality control at Price-Buckland
Price Buckland make embroidered sweatshirts, fleeces and jumpers for schools, clubs and companies.
Although they now import some blank garments, the majority are made up and embroidered at the
factory. If faults are not detected until the garment is finished it may well have to be scrapped – an
expensive option. The quality control system is designed to pick up errors as quickly as possible:
Fabric 1
A sample of every batch of fabric is checked for colour in a light-box. It
is also checked for weave/knit quality. Every few months samples of
fabric will also be sent to a testing house where they are checked for
pilling (bobbling), dye fastness and wear.
Assembly
Fabric 2
Each roll of fabric is checked for marks and weave/knit
quality as it is laid out by the cutter.
During the assembly phase each machinist checks her own work for marks, and construction (sewing)
quality. Any excess threads are removed.
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Garment check 1
Textiles - Mass Production - Systems and Techniques
At the end of the assembly phase each garment is pressed and
checked again for marks, excess bits of thread and construction.
Garment check 2
Price Buckland Quality Control Sheet
Embroidery
The embroidery machines are designed to stop automatically, if a
thread breaks, misses a stitch, or becomes tangled. The operators
also check the embroidered areas themselves, removing any
excess bits of thread by hand.
Final control
Approximately 1 in 20 garments are given a full quality control
check which includes: checking for sizing, number of stitches per
inch, labelling and marks.
All garments are pressed again and given a final visual inspection before being packed up ready for
sending out to the customer. 1 in 20 garments are given a full quality control inspection.
Errors are few and far between but when they are found the source is traced and the problem rectified.
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Textiles - Mass Production - Systems and Techniques
Globalisation and Workers' Rights
As a supplier of goods to American Universities, the PT DADA factory featured in the video clip was
the subject of a report into working conditions by the US Workers Rights Consortium. The preliminary
report, published in March 2002 highlighted a number of areas of concern:
1. Punishing and Deterring Sick Leave
“There is substantial evidence that supervisors impose abusive punishments on workers who have
taken sick leave, and wrongfully deter workers who wish to take sick leave. For example, the
company punishes and deters sick leave by frequently requiring workers, on the day they return
from sick leave, to stand erect without moving for periods of one hour to entire workdays. The
punishment is designed to humiliate workers, and inflicts physical hardship on convalescing
workers.”
2. Danger of Severe Heat Stress:
“There is substantial evidence that several elements of the working environment pose significant
risks of illness or even fatality as a result of heat-related disorders, including dehydration,
exhaustion, fainting, heat cramps, salt deficiency, heat exhaustion, and heat stroke. Many workers
at PT Dada experience dizziness, exhaustion, dehydration, and fainting. The factory is located, of
course, in a tropical climate, with extended periods of severe heat and intense humidity. The
factory has no air-conditioning and only a few small fans (some malfunctioning) in its very large
production areas. Ventilation in the factory is poor and air circulation is weak. Even the factory
clinic, where many workers seek to recuperate during the workday, has no air-conditioning. Many
workers are required to stand in one position, doing repetitive tasks, throughout the workday. The
vast majority of PT Dada workers are very young women of slight stature. The majority of women
workers in Indonesia suffer some degree of iron deficiency anaemia and are, thus, susceptible to
rapid fatigue. PT Dada workers take their drinking water from large plastic bins containing hot
water provided by an outside contractor. The water is sometimes discoloured, malodorous, and
distasteful. (Other, comparable factories in Indonesia provide cool, bottled water). Taken together,
these conditions create high risks of severe heat stress and heat-related disorders.”
3. Homework:
“There is substantial evidence that PT Dada supervisors often require workers to continue their
work at home, after working their regular and overtime hours in the factory. The wage for
homework is calculated by piece-rates which are far too low to enable workers to earn the
statutory minimum wage or to earn PT Dada’s hourly wage rates for regular work, let alone
statutory and company rates for overtime work. Record-keeping of homework is inadequate, and
the company often pays for homework through transactions that do not appear on pay stubs.
(Managers testified that they are unaware that PT Dada workers do homework.)”
4. Freedom of Association:
“There is substantial evidence that PT Dada has engaged in many serious acts of interference,
intimidation, and retaliation against workers seeking to organise those unions that are not favoured
by managers. These acts include interrogation, demotion, suspension, and threats of job loss and
plant closing. One of the most severe acts of retaliation was the company’s “solitary confinement”
of a union supporter over a two week period in late 2001. The worker was required to spend her
workdays—ranging from eight to twelve hours—working alone in a small, windowless,
unventilated storage space. She was placed under guard, and permitted to obtain food and water
only erratically and, on some days, not at all."
A full copy of the report can be downloaded from: http://www.workersrights.org/freports.asp
Since the publication of the report and after pressure from consumers a number of improvements have
been made.
Workers now have improved first aid, medical support and
access to cool drinking water. With weekly meetings, workermanagement
relations have also begun to improve.
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Globalisation Links
Textiles - Mass Production - Systems and Techniques
• www.oxfam.org.uk/coolplanet
Oxfam is one of the world's leading charities and helps bring awareness of global citizenship to
teachers and students.
• The Cool Planet website is primarily intended for teachers and their students. It aims to bring the
global dimension to the classroom, using the concept of Global Citizenship.
• Oxfam has also brought together a selection of resources about sport, sportswear and child labour
which can be found at: Sport Relief 2004,
• www.labourbehindthelabel.org
Labour Behind the Label is a membership organisation which brings together pressure groups,
trade unions and individuals in support of garment workers' efforts to improve their working
conditions and wages. It draws attention to the plight of garment workers everywhere, including
Britain, and works to facilitate information exchange and international solidarity between workers
and consumers.
It is the UK platform of the Europe-wide Clean Clothes Campaign. The site provides case studies
on companies like Gap, Sportswear as well as providing online resources and links to other useful
sites.
LBL also produce a free booklet aimed at young people called ‘Exposed’, which explores ethical
issues within the global fashion industry. Case studies used include the Nike trainer and football
producers in Pakistan. The electronic version can be found on www.jusbiz.org
• www.cleanclothes.org
Specifically aimed at young people, the Clean Clothes Campaign works to improve the working
conditions in the global garment industry.
• www.caa.org.au
Australia's leading agency working with communities around the world for solutions to poverty
and social injustice.
• www.ilo.org
The International Labour Organisation is the UN specialised agency which seeks the promotion of
social justice and internationally recognised human and labour rights.
• www.globalexchange.org
A US based international human rights organisation dedicating to promoting environmental, social
and political justice. The website contains sections on Fair Trade and Sweatshops.
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Glossary
Textiles - Mass Production - Systems and Techniques
Batch system
A type of industrial production method where a specific amount of identical items are made at the
same time.
Bespoke production
A type of production method where only one textile product is made. It is individually tailored to fit an
individual's body measurements. The customer selects material and design and personal details are
added, for example a longer length of sleeve. For example the tailor made suits made by bespoke tailor
Timothy Everest.
Dye/die cutter
It works much like a pastry cutter with each die being the same shape ad size as the required pattern
pieces. These are stamped out to create identical and exact shapes. A press or die cutting is good for
stable flat fabrics that need to be cut extremely accurately and for products where very fine tolerances
are needed. It is also used for materials that are difficult to cut without extreme pressure, for example
leather, coated and laminated materials. It is good for mass produced items requiring the same patterns
over a long period of time.
Hot drill marker
The hot drill is a vertical hot probe. It makes small visible holes in the fabric layers. It is used to
accurately pierce a multiple layer of cut pieces to mark an important place, for example where a dart
needs to be sewn. It can be used to make the holes more durable.
JIT manufacturing system
A type of industrial production method where all parts of a product arrive at the manufacturing point
just in time for production to reduce costs.
Lay plan
Process to show the most efficient use of pattern pieces on a piece of fabric prior to cutting. The
programme shows this being done electronically on a white board for a kayaking vest.
Progressive bundle system
A method of industrial production used for larger fixed amounts of identical products. The programme
shows this system being used in the production of sweatshirts.
Quality control
Tests and inspections are carried out to ensure that the product meets the specification criteria.
Seal
A sample of a product, made to a correct and agreed specification. This is sealed by the customer or
test house and thereafter used in conjunction with an agreed written specification as the standard to
which bulk production will be manufactured and used in any subsequent inspection or dispute.
Sourcing fabrics
The process of researching and finding the appropriate type of material for a product, and identifying a
reliable and suitable supplier for that material.
Standard minutes
The standard time allowed to perform an operation, including rest allowance.
Tolerance
The allowed variation in size or weight etc of a product.
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Textiles - Mass Production - Systems and Techniques
Student Worksheet:
After Viewing the Program
Section 1: Patterns, Laying and Cutting
1. Describe how a computer can be used to create pattern pieces, produce a lay plan and cut the
fabric.
2. Explain the advantages of using a computer-controlled system to generate pattern pieces rather
than using traditional cardboard or paper pattern pieces.
3. Describe how fifty layers of fabric are laid out and cut ready for volume production.
4. The pictures below show equipment used when cutting fabric. Describe the use of each one.
a) Straight Bladed Knife
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c) Dye Cutters
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b) Round Bladed Rotary Cutter
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d) Hot Drill

Section 2: Assembly
Textiles - Mass Production - Systems and Techniques
5. The pictures below show the four main types of sewing machines used when assembling textiles
products. Describe the use of each one.
a) Single Needle Sewing Machine
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b) Overlock Machine
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c) Twin Needle Machine
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d) Button Based Machine
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6. List three other specialist machines a Textile Manufacturer may use.
7. Use the standard flow chart symbols to describe the order of assembly of a sweatshirt made using
the progressive bundle or batch production system. Include quality control checks.
8. Explain the differences between the ‘progressive bundle’ production system and ‘job production’.
9. The ‘job production’ system is a more expensive system to use. Explain why some companies still
use this manufacturing system.
10. List three checks that would be made on a completed garment before it is packed and dispatched.

Textiles - Mass Production - Systems and Techniques
Section 3: Quality Control
11. Some companies buy in ready-made garments to customise with embroidered logos.
List four quality control checks that could be made on a garment when it is delivered to the
company.
12. Describe three quality control checks that should be made on a garment during the manufacturing
process.
Section 4: Control Systems
13. Some textile manufacturers use bar codes to monitor production. Explain how this is done.
14. Explain how ICT can be used in the administration of a textiles company.
Section 5: Globalisation
15. Explain how ‘consumer power’ has improved the working conditions in factories in Indonesia.
Extension Activities
Additional research will be needed to complete these tasks.
16. Explain the disadvantages of using computer aided design and computer aided manufacture in the
textiles industry.
17. Job production and batch production are two manufacturing systems. Other manufacturing
systems include repetitive flow production, continual flow, cell production, in-line assembly, just
in time, and ‘off the peg’. Research these systems and give examples of the products made using
each.
18. Explain the implications to a manufacturer of failing to use quality control systems when
manufacturing textile products.
19. Health and safety is an important issue in the manufacturing industry and there is legislation in
place to protect employees. Design a leaflet that could be given to employees to inform them
about personal safety, risk assessment and the common safety symbols used in the workplace and
on consumable materials.
20. Textile products have to be labelled to provide the consumer with information about the product.
Research the type of information that needs to be included on labels attached to textile products.
Present your research in the form of a leaflet that could be supplied to textile companies.
21. Explain how the packaging and marketing of a product can have a significant impact on the
consumer.
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