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Alexander in Amsterdam - Minerva

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Afghan archaeology<br />

500–600 BC); and undertaken restoration<br />

work at the 9 th -century Masjid-i<br />

Noh Gumbad (Fig 9). A regional<br />

museum <strong>in</strong> Mazar-i Sharif, be<strong>in</strong>g<br />

established <strong>in</strong> collaboration with the<br />

National Museum, is also due to open<br />

later this year.<br />

The work of the Aga Khan Trust<br />

for Culture (AKTC) primarily focuses<br />

on architectural preservation and restoration,<br />

rather than archaeological<br />

fieldwork, through the tra<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g and<br />

employment of local craftsmen and<br />

architects. The citadel <strong>in</strong> Herat (Fig 8),<br />

the 18 th -century mausoleum of Timur<br />

Shah <strong>in</strong> Kabul, bath-houses, cisterns,<br />

and numerous mosques, have all benefitted<br />

from AKTC projects. Through<br />

its work, the AKTC aims to create<br />

functional build<strong>in</strong>gs and spaces that<br />

can be re-<strong>in</strong>corporated <strong>in</strong>to the social<br />

fabric of the country. The AKTC has<br />

also been <strong>in</strong>strumental <strong>in</strong> advocat<strong>in</strong>g<br />

for the protection and preservation of<br />

Herat’s architectural heritage; earlier<br />

this year, Herat’s Old City was added<br />

to the World Monuments Fund’s 2010<br />

World Monuments Watch List.<br />

In a similar ve<strong>in</strong>, the Turquoise<br />

Mounta<strong>in</strong> Foundation (TMF) aims to<br />

revive Afghanistan’s traditional crafts,<br />

by establish<strong>in</strong>g the Institute for Afghan<br />

Arts and Architecture, whose workshops<br />

focus on calligraphy, ceramics,<br />

jewellery and woodwork<strong>in</strong>g. Its efforts<br />

to regenerate Murad Khane, an historic<br />

area of Kabul’s Old City, have won<br />

admiration around the world. More<br />

importantly, the project has enabled<br />

the district’s <strong>in</strong>habitants to rema<strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong><br />

their traditional houses, with access to<br />

modern amenities such as electricity,<br />

sewers and runn<strong>in</strong>g water.<br />

It would be mislead<strong>in</strong>g to suggest that<br />

all of this important work is be<strong>in</strong>g led<br />

by Westerners. Afghan architects and<br />

archaeologists such as Zafar Paiman<br />

(work<strong>in</strong>g for the past seven years at<br />

the extensive Sasanian-Kushan monastery<br />

complex of Tepe Narenj) and Prof<br />

Zemaryalai Tarzi (synonymous with<br />

42<br />

Fig 6. The brick<br />

M<strong>in</strong>aret of Jam,<br />

which stands 65m <strong>in</strong><br />

height, was built <strong>in</strong><br />

AD 1174–75, <strong>in</strong> front<br />

of the north bank of<br />

the Hari Rud, which is<br />

now scarred by robber<br />

holes.<br />

Fig 7. Conservation<br />

tra<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> the<br />

National Museum <strong>in</strong><br />

Kabul, 2007.<br />

Fig 8. Herat Citadel,<br />

Qal’a-ye Ikhtiyar al-<br />

D<strong>in</strong>. The two walled<br />

brick enclosures that<br />

comprise the citadel<br />

were built dur<strong>in</strong>g the<br />

Timurid period (AD<br />

1369–1506). However,<br />

the site was defended<br />

dur<strong>in</strong>g earlier periods<br />

and it has been l<strong>in</strong>ked<br />

by some scholars as<br />

the location of a fort<br />

built by <strong>Alexander</strong><br />

the Great.<br />

Fig 9. The 9 th -century<br />

Masjid-i Noh Gumbad<br />

(Mosque of the N<strong>in</strong>e<br />

Domes).<br />

8 9<br />

Photo: marius arnesen.<br />

Photo: © mJaP / Dct.<br />

work on the giant carved Buddhas at<br />

Bamiyan, which were destroyed by the<br />

Taliban <strong>in</strong> 2001) are merely the most<br />

recent <strong>in</strong> a long-stand<strong>in</strong>g tradition of<br />

home-grown scholars. The dedicated<br />

staff of the National Museum of Kabul,<br />

who risked their lives dur<strong>in</strong>g the civil<br />

war to safeguard the museum’s collections,<br />

cont<strong>in</strong>ue to work hard to restore<br />

the museum to its former glory.<br />

Key to the success of these efforts<br />

to protect Afghanistan’s heritage is<br />

capacity build<strong>in</strong>g. NAIA and other<br />

Afghan organisations require significant<br />

<strong>in</strong>vestments of personnel, fund<strong>in</strong>g,<br />

tra<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g and equipment. In a<br />

small step <strong>in</strong> this direction, the MJAP<br />

held a series of sem<strong>in</strong>ars on archaeological<br />

survey techniques, funded<br />

by the British Embassy, at Kabul<br />

University <strong>in</strong> 2007. A grant from La<br />

Trobe University, Australia, has s<strong>in</strong>ce<br />

enabled the publication of a bil<strong>in</strong>gual<br />

booklet based on the sem<strong>in</strong>ars, copies<br />

of which have been donated to our<br />

Afghan colleagues. In 2007, the MJAP<br />

also provided conservation tra<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong><br />

the National Museum of Kabul (Fig<br />

7); documented stolen Timurid tombstones<br />

seized by the Afghan authorities;<br />

and held a medical cl<strong>in</strong>ic for museum<br />

employees and their families, who are<br />

unable to afford such basic treatment.<br />

As archaeologists have found <strong>in</strong><br />

Iraq, the best way of ensur<strong>in</strong>g sites<br />

6<br />

are protected is by engag<strong>in</strong>g with the<br />

local community. Surveys and excavations<br />

demonstrate to local people that<br />

archaeological rema<strong>in</strong>s are a unique<br />

national treasure, a source of pride<br />

and employment, and not necessarily<br />

an <strong>in</strong>hibitor to development. Where<br />

we have been able to do this, archaeologists<br />

have found that most Afghans<br />

want to protect and preserve their cultural<br />

heritage.<br />

Modern technology provides us with<br />

the means to share <strong>in</strong>formation with the<br />

Afghan authorities, the International<br />

Security Assistance Force (ISAF) and<br />

NGOs, to ensure that sites are monitored<br />

and risks to vulnerable archaeological<br />

rema<strong>in</strong>s identified before it<br />

is too late. Impact assessments and<br />

cultural heritage management plans<br />

should be part of all projects aimed<br />

at rebuild<strong>in</strong>g Afghanistan’s <strong>in</strong>frastructure<br />

and exploit<strong>in</strong>g its m<strong>in</strong>eral wealth.<br />

The cost of these measures is negligible<br />

compared to the riches that are wait<strong>in</strong>g<br />

to be tapped. It rema<strong>in</strong>s to be seen,<br />

however, whether Afghan or foreign<br />

archaeologists will have the opportunity<br />

to be an <strong>in</strong>tegral part of rebuild<strong>in</strong>g<br />

the country and channell<strong>in</strong>g some of<br />

the revenues ga<strong>in</strong>ed from the m<strong>in</strong>eral<br />

resources <strong>in</strong>to projects to conserve the<br />

heritage of Afghanistan. n<br />

7<br />

M<strong>in</strong>erva September/October 2010<br />

Photo: © mJaP / travis bearD, argus PhotograPhy.<br />

Photo: © alison gascoigne.

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