C&K mag #34 dps-f spg - Canoe & Kayak

LAKE KAYAKING
Wonderful Waikeremoana
by Dave Evans
Lake Waikeremoana in the Te Urewera National Park is a
destination any kayaker with a love of nature and a yearning
for isolation must put on their “wish list”. Yours truly had
passed up opportunities in the past with various excuses
such as work commitments or ‘it is too far to travel.’ So, when
a trip was planned for Anzac weekend 2005, I just had to
put my name down and make my own journey of discovery.
Lake Waikeremoana was formed about 2200 years ago by a massive
landslide, which blocked a narrow gorge of the Waikaretaheke River. The
water backed up behind the landslide and created the lake, 248 metres deep.
The local Tuhoe and Ruapani Maori people known as ‘Children of the Mist,’
have lived in the area for centuries. In pre-European times their life was a
constant cycle of food gathering in this demanding landscape of rugged
mountains cloaked in dense forest. There are many areas within the forest
park and on the lake edge, which are sacred to the Tuhoe and Ruapani
people, an important aspect to be aware of and to respect when you visit.
There are more than 650 types of native plant in the Te Urewera National
Park and many birds, including Kaka, Kakariki, New Zealand Robin, New
Zealand Falcon, Tui, Bell Bird, Morepork and Brown Kiwi. Other introduced
species include Grey, Mallard and Paradise Ducks, Kingfishers, New Zealand
Scaup and White Faced Herons. If you sit quietly in your kayak and listen,
you will hear many of them calling from the forest and you may even sight
them around the numerous DOC camp sites.
Lake Waikeremoana is fed by four major tributaries - the Hopuruahine,
Mokau, Aniwaniwa and Te Korokorowhaitiri (also known as Korokoro
Stream). In 1946 a hydroelectric development was completed, which lowered
the lake level by 5 metres. The lake level does vary depending on the amount
of rainfall in the area and the manipulation of the water level from the
hydroelectric scheme. Some members in our group reckoned the lake level
was about 2 metres lower than on their previous visit 20 months earlier.
The Lake Waikeremoana Track is listed as one of the Great Walks in New
Zealand. It affords truly magnificent vistas of the lake, especially from the
Panekiri Bluff. The bluff makes a spectacular backdrop as you kayak across
the main section of the lake. The Track is 46 kilometres of easy to moderate
difficulty, taking three to five days to walk. There are 5 DOC huts and
campsites enroute with generally excellent facilities including fresh water
and toilets.
It is also possible to visit other lakes within walking distance of Lake
Waikeremoana - Lake Kaitawa, Lake Kiriopukae, and Lake Waikareiti - each
with their own special magic. Whilst you cannot take your kayak to these
smaller lakes, I am told that they are well worth a visit if you have the time.
All of the lakes in Te Urewera National Park are renowned for their trout
fishing. Good size Brown and Rainbow trout can be caught by fly or trawling.
Our group decided to camp at designated DOC campsites on the lake edge,
which provide fresh water, a toilet and a decent sized shelter for cooking
and socializing. We had roaring campfires every night, creating a special
atmosphere in the midst of a pristine remote wilderness. You can Free Camp
anywhere on the lake, provided you are at least 500 metres from the walking
track. If you decide to take this option, please find out where the local Maori
sacred sites are located before you start your trip. This information is
22 ISSUE THIRTYfour • 2005
available from the locals or the Information Centre at Aniwaniwa.
VHF channel 6 is used for boat-to-boat traffic and we were told that weather
forecasts were available by calling the Visitor Centre on Channel 19. However,
despite several attempts we were not able to raise an answer. Local boaties
provided weather forecasting, from quite detailed reports to “more of the
same mate” with varying accuracy. Because Lake Waikeremoana is 600
metres above sea level, it is prudent to check out a five day forecast before
you enter the area and treat it like an alpine climate. The weather can change
extremely quickly!
Over the four days we spent on the lake, we encountered beautiful clear
blue sky, warm daytime temperatures, cold south westerly winds, low cloud,
lake mist, heavy frost and snow on the surrounding hills. Just about the full
Monty in terms of weather conditions! Take plenty of thermal clothing and
wet weather gear.
Kayaking on the lake is an absolute pleasure. The forest grows to the water’s
edge. There are water falls, lovely bays and beaches, unusual rock formations
and breath taking vistas. It is a visual symphony of nature at its pristine best
with the added edge of having to be constantly aware of how quickly the
lake can turn from docile flat calm to snarling 30 knot plus gusts of wind. The
lake can and did “kick arse” with a couple of our hardy group taking an
impromptu swim in the middle of the lake.
We paddled most of the lake shoreline over four days. On the first day it was
in brilliant sunshine along the Northern coastline and into Whanganui Inlet,
where we camped at the very sheltered Tapuaenui campsite. On day two we
explored the Whanganui Inlet and then paddled around into the Wairau Arm,
exploring the many little bays enroute. We camped two nights in a
picturesque setting at the Maraunui Bay campsite. Some of the group paddled
to the Korokoro Falls on day three. By all accounts it is well worth the half
hour walk from the Korokoro campsite. The rest of us spent the day walking
two sections of the track in cold bleak conditions. In the Marauiti Hut we
chatted with some hunters who were trying to stalk deer and wild pigs. During
our walk we saw tracks of them but no actual sightings. Day four began in
pleasant conditions with a breeze at our back, paddling back out of the
Wairau Arm. However, on crossing the lake heading for Waikeremoana we
were hit by sudden gusts of wind which managed to tip out a couple of our
intrepid group. So after a quick rescue and sorting out we headed for the
nearest beach to give the drenched duo a hot drink and chance to collect
their thoughts before we continued on the final leg back.
Apart from the natural wonders of the lake and its surrounds, the antics of
some members in our group provided highlights. We had a Talent Quest
organized by our producer Chris. He roped in three young teenage lads who
were sharing our campsite. Those boys will be telling the story of that night
for years to come! Our resident doctor regaled us with funny stories about
strange injury patients coming into A&E....what do you think happens when
a grown man attempts to trim a hedge with a lawn mower??!! So as usual the
company was great and new friendships were forged in typical Yakkity
Yak style.
Many thanks to Stephen and Brenda for organizing the trip and allowing me
to experience a place I plan to revisit again and again in the years ahead.
As they say - “if you never never go, you will never never know” - so just
do it!
Photos by Dave Evans and Guy Folster