BIENNALE GUIDE 2011 - The Art Newspaper

SAN MARCO
● NATIONAL PARTICIPATIONS ● COLLATERAL EVENTS ● OTHER EVENTS ● CLASSICS ● FOOD & DRINK ★HIGHLIGHTS
19 The World Belongs
to You ★
Palazzo Grassi, Campo San
Samuele 3231, San Marco
Artists: Group show of over
35 artists including Marlene
Dumas, El Anatsui, Urs
Fischer, Cyprien Gaillard, Loris
Gréaud, David Hammons,
Boris Mikhailov, Charles Ray,
Rudolf Stingel, Francesco
Vezzoli, Zeng Fanzhi
Organisation: The François
Pinault Foundation
2 Jun-31 Dec
● A dramatic presentation
of the Pinault collection,
which combines major
players like Sigmar Polke
and Giuseppe Penone with
an impressive array of young
pretenders such as Adrian
Ghenie and Cyprien Gaillard.
Attempting to address
nothing less than “the major
themes of contemporary
history”, it is another
unmissable Grassi show.
www.palazzograssi.it
20 TRA: Edge of
Becoming ★
Palazzo Fortuny, Campo san
Beneto, San Marco 3780
Artists: Group show of over
300 items including works
by Marie Bytebier, Vincenzo
Castella, Ana Mendieta,
Ettore Spalletti, Hiroshi
Sugimoto, James Turrell
Organisations: Axel
Vervoordt Foundation;
Museum Palazzo Fortuny
4 Jun-27 Nov
● The latest in Axel
Vervoordt’s series of richly
complex exhibitions in the
Palazzo Fortuny, this is
another wunderkammer of
more than 300 archeological
objects, paintings, decorative
items, and contemporary
commissions. Ana Mendieta
and James Turrell are among
the protagonists of his lofty
ambition to “enhance
revelation and knowledge”.
www.axel-vervoordt.com
www.museiciviciveneziani.it
21 Xijing
St Mark’s Square Gallery, San
Marco 71/c
Artists: Xijing Men
(Gimhongsok, Tsuyoshi
Ozawa, Chen Shaoxiong)
Organisations: Arthub Asia;
Bevilacqua La Masa Foundation
2 Jun-25 Sep
● A first institutional
exhibition for the pan-Asian
collective Xijing Men,
featuring Chen Shaoxiong
(China), Tsuyoshi Ozawa
(Japan) and Gimhongsok
(South Korea). This
immersive environment
reflects their fictional
universe Xijing, and includes
video and sound installations
as well as footage of the trio’s
performances.
www.arthubasia.org
www.bevilacqualamasa.it
Xijing Men
© THE ARTISTS
Basilica di San Marco and Palazzo Ducale
22 Basilica di San Marco
Piazza San Marco
● One of the great buildings
of the world, this astonishing
Byzantine basilica at the
centre of the city contains
innumerable treasures both
outside and inside, the pick
of which are the medieval
gold and jewel-encrusted
screen, the Pala d’Oro, and
the shimmering mosaics.
23 Ca’Giustinian
Ca’ Giustinian, San Marco
1364/A
● The biennale’s HQ has a
relatively recently opened
gallery and a cafe, L’Ombra
del Leone, whose terrace
looks over to the Salute, the
Dogana and San Giorgio.
“The best place to get a view
of the city,” according to
Daniel Birnbaum (p41).
24 Campo Santo
Stefano
San Marco
● Popular square, and a
great spot to kick back and
watch the world pass by. The
Santo Stefano church has a
pair of late Tintorettos.
25 Museo Civico
Correr
Ala Napoleonica, Piazza San
Marco, San Marco 52
40
THE ART NEWSPAPER VENICE GUIDE 2011
● The illustrious history of
the Venetian Republic is told
here, and it also boasts a
perennially interesting
exhibition programme.
Julian Schnabel is the
Correr’s biennale choice
(see p39 for details).
www.museiciviciveneziani.it
26 Negozio Olivetti
Procuratie Vecchie, Piazza
San Marco, San Marco 101
● After years as a “cheesy
gallery”, as Christian
Marclay puts it (p12), cult
architect Carlo Scarpa’s
flagship store for Olivetti
typewriters in Piazza San
Marco is restored to its
original glory, exposing his
elegant “bronze and marble
mashups”, as Marclay
describes them. Entry is €5,
with a 30-minute guided tour.
www.negoziolivetti.it
27 Palazzo Ducale
(Doge’s Palace)
Piazzetta San Marco, San
Marco 1
● One of the great Gothic
masterpieces of Venice, with
a delicate pink exterior that
glows at sunset. The building
is an unmissable part of the
city, as long as you can cope
with the tourist hordes.
www.museiciviciveneziani.it
CHRISTOPHER SEDDON
28 Palazzo Fortuny
Campo San Beneto, San
Marco 3780
● Permanent collection and
changing exhibitions in the
atmospheric ex-abode of
Spanish-born textile master
Mariano Fortuny, famed for
his silk pleats. To coincide
with each biennale, it hosts a
superb themed show (p 40).
www.museiciviciveneziani.it
29 Bar Canale,
Hotel Bauer
Campo San Moisè, San
Marco 1459
● Summer drinks on the
terrace offer fantastic views
of the Grand Canal and the
Salute. Recommended by
Richard Armstrong of the
Guggenheim, and a favourite
late-night biennale haunt.
Tel: +39 041 520 7022
www.bauervenezia.com
30 Bar Longhi, Hotel
Gritti Palace
Campo Santa Maria del
Giglio, San Marco 2467
● High-toned hangout with
great views over to the
Salute. Called Bar Longhi
due to its collection of six
works by the 18th-century
Venetian painter.
Tel: +39 041 794 611
www.hotelgrittipalace
venice.com
31 Caffè Florian
Piazza San Marco, San
Marco 56
● Italy’s oldest café. Yes, it’s
a cliché, but it is a beautiful
place, and an essential part
of the Venetian experience.
Tel: +39 041 520 5641
www.caffeflorian.com
32 Harry’s Bar
Calle Vallaresso, San Marco 1323
● A Venetian institution:
you have to try the Bellinis at
least once. Decent food also
served, though a bit pricey.
Tel: +39 041 528 5777
www.cipriani.com
33 Hotel Monaco &
Grand Canal
Calle Vallaresso, San Marco 1332
● Another great terrace on
the Grand Canal, with
Bellinis to rival Harry’s Bar.
Tel: +39 041 520 0211
www.hotelmonaco.it
34 Osteria Enoteca
San Marco
Frezzeria, San Marco 1610
● Pick of the restaurants in
the touristy area around
Piazza San Marco. It has a
great wine selection and
deliciously fresh ingredients,
for both bar snacks and in
the sit-down restaurant.
Tel: +39 041 528 5242
www.osteriasanmarco.it
41
THE ART NEWSPAPER VENICE GUIDE 2011
SAN MARCO
● NATIONAL PARTICIPATIONS ● COLLATERAL EVENTS ● OTHER EVENTS ● CLASSICS ● FOOD & DRINK ★HIGHLIGHTS
Campo Santo Stefano
GIOVANNI DALL’ORTO
ESSENTIAL VENICE
Daniel Birnbaum
Director, Moderna Museet;
artistic director, 53rd Venice Biennale
● I think the terrace of the biennale’s
headquarters (Ca’ Giustinian, p40) is
unbelievable. It’s the best place to get a
view of the city. Paolo Baratta [Venice Biennale
President] has done a number of great things for
Venice, but this might be the most important. Now
the biennale has a great place at the centre of the city.
● The Maria Callas Bridge [over the Rio delle
Veste, near La Fenice, San Marco] is very central
yet hidden. Francesco Bonami [curator] showed it
to me: it’s a great secret.
● To relax, I go to have a swim on the Lido early
in the morning.
● Favourite restaurants? I’ve always liked a little
place called La Bitta (p29).
● This year, I’m so happy about looking at things
without being responsible for the entire thing.
The Nordic Pavilion is a more privileged task:
Andreas Eriksson and Fia Backström will make
great works, and so will the other Swedish artists,
Klara Lidén and Karl Holmqvist. I’m very curious
about the international show, and happy with the
Golden Lions to Franz West and Sturtevant!
Ponte Maria Callas, San Marco
SAILKO