BIENNALE GUIDE 2011 - The Art Newspaper

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SAN POLO & SANTA CROCE ● NATIONAL PARTICIPATIONS ● COLLATERAL EVENTS ● OTHER EVENTS ● CLASSICS ● FOOD & DRINK ★HIGHLIGHTS San Polo & Santa Croce: a heart with soul There’s nourishment for both body and spirit in the ancient heart of Venice: fresh local food in the Rialto markets, and sublime devotional art by Bellini, Donatello and Titian in the great Frari church Rialto Bridge 18 6 CHRISTOPHER SEDDON 19 These two central sestieres occupy the bustling heart of central Venice. The area around the Rialto bridge is generally agreed to be the most ancient part of the city, and contains the famed and extraordinary markets, largely unchanged for centuries, and an essential stop-off point for any Venice visit. Around them are some of the city’s most atmospheric bars and restaurants, and plenty of shops. San Polo also offers some crucial encounters with Venetian art: the Scuola Grande di San Rocco is Tintoretto’s magnum opus, while the vast gothic Frari church features two of Titian’s most daring and revolutionary paintings, as well as the great man’s tomb. 13 15 42 THE ART NEWSPAPER VENICE GUIDE 2011 21 3 5 8 14 9 1 11 12 7 10 25 4 2 16 20 23 24 21 17 DOMINIC BELL ● NATIONAL PARTICIPATIONS ● COLLATERAL EVENTS ● OTHER EVENTS ● CLASSICS ● FOOD & DRINK ★HIGHLIGHTS 1 Bulgaria Palazzo Carminati, Campo San Stae, Santa Croce 1882 Exhibition: Bond of Generation Artists: Greddy Assa, Pavel Koichev, Houben Tcherkalov ● An open letter on Facebook questioned the apparently mystifying process that led to these three artists being selected. Assa is an expressive, figurative painter, Koichev a creator of theatrical sculptures, while Tcherkalov (aka R.T. Houben) is a once-avant garde artist who now paints images from world currencies in a naive style. 2 San Marino, Republic of Palazzo Riva del Vin, San Silvestro, San Polo 1097 Exhibition: Luce In-azione Artists: Marco Bravura, Daniela Comani, Ottavio Fabbri, Verdiano Manzi, Patrizia Merendi, Omar Paolucci, Lars Teichmann, Thea Tini, Daniela Tonelli ● Playing on the biennale theme of ILLUMInazioni, the title “Luce In-azione” translates as “Light in Action”. It includes Italians and Germans alongside native San Marinians, and Campo San Stae All exhibitions run 4 Jun - 27 Nov 2011 unless stated otherwise PATRICE Le Festin de Chun-te: Hsieh Chun-te plurality rules: Daniela Comani’s conceptualism stands out of an otherwise largely conventional group. 3 Ukraine Campo San Stae, Santa Croce (also at Chiesa di San Fantin, San Marco, p38) Exhibition: Post-vs- Proto-Renaissance Artist: Oksana Mas ● In a square dominated by various Biennale projects, Mas recreates Van Eyck masterpieces in mosaics of coloured eggs. Let’s hope they don’t get trampled. Also at San Marco (p38). ghent-altarpiece.com 4 Future Generation Art Prize @ Venice Palazzo Papadopoli, San Polo 1364 Artists: Group show of 19 artists including Keren Cytter, Nathalie Djurberg, Cao Fei, Mircea Nicolai, Katerina Seda, Emily Wardill, Hector Zamora Organisations: PinchukArtCentre; Victor Pinchuk Foundation 3 Jun-7 Aug ● This Ukrainian billionairefunded prize offers longterm support to artists aged SAN POLO & SANTA CROCE under 35 and features some well-known international contenders from 17 different countries. www.pinchukartcentre.org www.futuregeneration artprize.org 5 Le Festin de Chun-te ★ Scoletta dei Battioro e Tiraoro, Campo San Stae, Santa Croce 1980 Artist: Hsieh Chun-te Organisation: Museum of Contemporary Art of Taipei 1 Jun-10 Oct ● Themes of lust and food underpin this Taiwanese exrestaurateur’s show: hence the title, “Chun-Te’s Feast”. Expect troubling images from his “Raw” series of staged photographs, shot on Taipei’s gritty outskirts, plus a “cooking theatre” and ritual cooking performance. www.mocataipei.org.tw 6 Neoludica: Art is a Game 2011-1966 Scuola dei Laneri, Sala Laneri, Salizada S. Pantalon, Santa Croce 131/131/A (also at Centro Culturale Candiani, Mestre, to 31 Oct, p46) Artists: Group show of over 30 artists across two venues, including Eva & Franco Mattes, Molleindustria, Gabriella Parisi, Tonylight, 43 THE ART NEWSPAPER VENICE GUIDE 2011 © THE ARTIST Vjvisualoop, Jan Vormann Organisation: Associazione culturale E-Ludo Lab 1 Jun-27 Nov ● Featuring a largely Italian selection, Neoludica takes Duchamp’s idea that “art is a game between all people and all periods” quite literally, and reflect the links between video games and visual art, as well as other cultural forms. (See also Mestre, p46.) www.neoludica.it 7 Afternoon Tea The Quaffers Pavilion, Campo San Polo, San Polo 1960 Artists: Group show of 70 artists including Kate Davis, Jarik Jongman, Liane Lang, Suzanne Moxhay, Mimi Norrgren, Sardine & Tobleroni Organisation: W.W. Gallery 30 May-12 Jun, 15.00-18.00 by appointment only ● Tea and cakes will be served in this appointmentonly pop-up gallery by W.W. of east London, featuring works on paper by 70 artists, and only present for the vernissage and the week after. The tea theme relates to the opening times and to the British Pavilion’s former use as a tea room. Booking: wwgallery@gmail.com +39 331 740 4189 (Venice) +44 753 134 2128 (London) www.wilsonwilliamsgallery.com PS “ Getting lost is its own reward in Venice ” MARK WALLINGER Artist
SAN POLO & SANTA CROCE ● NATIONAL PARTICIPATIONS ● COLLATERAL EVENTS ● OTHER EVENTS ● CLASSICS ● FOOD & DRINK ★HIGHLIGHTS 8 Apiary: Destiny Drums Chiesa di San Stae, Campo San Stae, Santa Croce Artists: Mykola Zhuravel, Vitaliy Ocheretyanyy Organisation: A-House Gallery 1 Jun-30 Nov ● Zhuravel represented Ukraine in the 2007 biennale, and returns with a related project this year. Hailing from a family of beekeepers, he creates sculptures from living beehives, as well as using beeswax in paintings which, appropriately for Venice, have a strongly Byzantine feel. Photographer Ocheretyanyy also features. www.artecommunications.com 9 Open Studios: Atelier BLM 2011 Palazzo Carminati, Santa Croce 1882/a (also at SS. Cosma e Damiano, Giudecca, p32) Artists: 12 artists including Lia Cecchin, Nina Fiocco, Luca Pucci, Serena Vestrucci Organisation: Bevilacqua La Masa Foundation 31 May-5 Jun, 16.00-20.00 ● For the vernissage only, the 12 studios run by the Venice-based Bevilacqua La Masa Foundation—five on the Giudecca and seven in Particolare PS “ Venice is full of secrets and only slowly reveals itself. After all these years I’ve only peeled the first layer ” CHRISTIAN MARCLAY Artist, ILLUMInazioni Palazzo Carminati—throw open their doors, revealing the work of young artists who have the opportunity to work in them for a year. www.bevilacqualamasa.it 10 Particolare Signum Foundation at Palazzo Dona, Campo San Polo 2177 Artists: Group show of over 20 artists including Giovanni Anselmo, Goshka Macuga Organisation: Signum Foundation 3 Jun-26 Nov ● Part two of a duology of exhibitions by this Polishbased charitable outfit with a permanent space in Palazzo Dona. Exploring links between art and democracy, it includes works by key international figures along with a number of Poles. www.signum.art.pl © THE ARTISTS 11 Pier Paolo Calzolari ★ Ca’ Pesaro, International Gallery of Modern Art, Santa Croce 2070 Artist: Pier Paolo Calzolari Organisation: Fondazione Musei Civici di Venezia; Fondazione Calzolari 4 Jun-30 Oct ● Twenty-five works from across the Arte Povera veteran’s career, reflecting that movement’s plurality of materials. Calzolari’s particular trademark was creating sculptures using ice; here, one example is placed outside, on the Grand Canal. www.museiciviciveneziani.it 12 Prada Foundation ★ Ca’ Corner della Regina, Santa Croce, 2214 Artists: to be confirmed Organisation: Prada Foundation Dates to be confirmed ● The Prada Foundation recently announced that it plans to use this neo-classical palace for the next six years, and to restore the building. For the biennale, it promises “a series of exceptional projects and installations” involving international artists and museums, and a display of Prada’s Rem Koolhaas-designed centre in Milan, opening in 2013. www.fondazioneprada.org 13 Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari Campo dei Frari, San Polo ● The Frari is a vast church full of treasures, including a great Bellini and wonderful Donatello, but above all, this 44 THE ART NEWSPAPER VENICE GUIDE 2011 is Titian’s domain. The master’s Assumption of the Virgin, 1516-18, over the high altar is among the alltime great paintings, and his Pesaro Madonna, 1519-26, was a radical approach to Madonna and Child imagery. 14 Ca’Pesaro Fondamenta Ca’Pesaro, Santa Croce 2070 ● Museum of 19th- and 20thcentury art: works by modern masters such as Bonnard and Ernst along with Italian artists, from symbolists to minor moderns. www.museiciviciveneziani.it 15 Chiesa di San Giacomo dell’Orio Campo di San Giacomo dell’Orio, Santa Croce San Giacomo dell’Orio ● One of Venice’s oldest and most charmingly modest churches, with a real hotch-potch of architectural styles. It features a beautiful altarpiece by Lorenzo Lotto. 16 Pescheria (fish market) Campo della Pescheria, San Polo ● Arrive in the early morning for an authentic view of Venetian life and to find a space at one of the DVD BRAMHALL many nearby cafés, although the market is just as atmospheric when closed. 17 Ponte di Rialto San Polo 125 ● Stretching over to San Marco, the Rialto has taken Venetians across the Grand Canal for many centuries. Its current incarnation is a 16th-century creation, controversial when first built, but now among the most famous bridges in the world. 18 Santa Lucia Railway Station ● Angiolo Mazzoni’s station is in Cannaregio, but the best view of it is from Santa Croce. One of the few modernist buildings to face the Grand Canal. 19 Scuola Grande di San Rocco Campo di San Rocco, San Polo 3052 ● Home to Tintoretto’s extraordinary, grand cycle of paintings (see panel, p17). The Chiesa di San Rocco next door has a group of Tintoretto canvases on the theme of St Roch, the saint Venetians hoped would save them from the plague. www.scuolagrande sanrocco.it 20 Al Muro Campo Bella Vienna, San Polo 222 ● Trendy, reasonably priced bar and restaurant, the pick of three Al Muros in San Polo. Uses the best produce from nearby Rialto market. Tel: +39 041 520 5205 www.murovinoecucina.it 21 Caffè del Doge Calle dei Cinque, San Polo 608 ● They serve good coffee in this chain café close to the Rialto, even if it’s a little like a Venetian Starbucks. Handy for a quick pit-stop. Tel: +39 041 522 7787 22 Da Fiore Calle del Scaleter, San Polo 2002 ● Michelin-starred, so at the top end of the price scale and often booked up, but well worth the wait. Tel: +39 041 721 308 www.dafiore.net 23 Naranzaria Campo San Giacometto, (nr fish market), San Polo 130 ● Former orange store for the market, serving a blend of Venetian and global cuisines, echoing Venice’s associations with the East. Tel: +39 041 72 41 035 www.naranzaria.it SAN POLO & SANTA CROCE ● NATIONAL PARTICIPATIONS ● COLLATERAL EVENTS ● OTHER EVENTS ● CLASSICS ● FOOD & DRINK ★HIGHLIGHTS The fish market when closed VICI MACDONALD 24 Rialto market Mercato di Rialto, Ponte di Rialto, Santa Croce ● Self-caterers need look no further for wonderfully fresh produce, beautifully set out. 25 Trattoria Antiche Carampane Rio Terà delle Carampane (by Pont delle Tette), San Polo 1911 ● A sign says “no pizza, no lasagne, no menù turistico”. Traditional Venetian restaurant recommended by Monica Bonvicini (p20), 45 THE ART NEWSPAPER VENICE GUIDE 2011 with fantastic seafood. Try spaghetti del doge, with a sumptuous crab sauce. Hard to find; the website has a map. Tel: +39 041 524 0165 www.antichecarampane.com Rialto market stall ESSENTIAL VENICE Anne Ellegood Senior curator, Hammer Museum; curator, Australian Pavilion ● I could stare at Veronese’s The Feast in the House of Levi at the Accademia (p29) for hours. ● My favourite buildings are the Palazzo Fortuny (p41) and the Ca’ d’Oro. ● To relax, I just walk around. I love to walk and get lost in Venice. ● I love Trattoria Corte Sconta (p23) for amazing seafood. Alle Testiere (p23) is also delicious. Caffè del Doge (left) near the Rialto Bridge has fantastic coffee: I like to go there every morning. And everyone should experience a Bellini at Harry’s (p41) at least once in their life. Veronese: The Feast in the House of Levi DAVID SIFRY
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