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As we admired <strong>the</strong> view, <strong>the</strong> wind rose steadily drawing clouds<br />
up from <strong>the</strong> valley floor. We removed skins and skied down, our<br />
success lay in having created skiing for ourselves to <strong>the</strong> envy of<br />
o<strong>the</strong>rs who got no skiing that day and went in for a proper<br />
lunch. No one was keen to leave to face <strong>the</strong> elements again, but<br />
at Adolf's insistence we did. In <strong>the</strong> complete 'white-out', it was<br />
difficult to know how he managed to guide us to within a few<br />
yards of our intended destinations. But he did, and continued to<br />
do so for <strong>the</strong> rest of <strong>the</strong> week in a dazzling display of<br />
professional guiding.<br />
Tuesday<br />
A sunny day created much enthusiasm and we set out to return<br />
to <strong>the</strong> Jochpass ridge of <strong>the</strong> previous day. We passed over <strong>the</strong><br />
same slopes via cable car and chairs, this time being able to see<br />
a beautifully pristine snow covered world on <strong>the</strong> way, which<br />
made up for <strong>the</strong> disappointments of <strong>the</strong> previous day.<br />
From <strong>the</strong> ridge we skied down and past <strong>the</strong> Engstenalp chair<br />
and off <strong>the</strong> piste map to a frozen lake <strong>the</strong> Engstlensee. Here we<br />
donned skins, and tramped for half an hour across <strong>the</strong> flat<br />
corner of <strong>the</strong> lake, whilst watching an Ibex family being<br />
harassed by a fox. He appeared to be making continuous<br />
circular tracks in <strong>the</strong> hope of driving one of <strong>the</strong> agile creatures<br />
of <strong>the</strong> edge of <strong>the</strong> nearest cliff. Having made <strong>the</strong> lakeshore we<br />
set off up <strong>the</strong> Schafftal Valley into a silent world of spectacular<br />
mountain scenery.<br />
We climbed for 4 hours with a break for lunch, which also<br />
entailed long discussion asto which valley in <strong>the</strong> far distance<br />
contained Wengen. Clivc Mitchell produced a bottle of<br />
Fendant, but <strong>the</strong> game was up when it appeared he had only<br />
brought one glass. Sarah Edmonds worried incessantly how her<br />
hat looked; she liked it but daughter Anna didn't and had<br />
banned its use. We all agreed it was wonderful.<br />
©<br />
<strong>2003</strong><br />
The ski down was glorious in <strong>the</strong> most perfect snow, producing<br />
parallel tracks which convinced us all that we were better skiers<br />
than we really were. John Rigby stayed at <strong>the</strong> back to pick up<br />
stragglers, was it because he was out of breath, or that he<br />
wanted his perfectly carved turns to be noticed as he caught up?<br />
By <strong>the</strong> time wc had tramped <strong>the</strong> ice on <strong>the</strong> Lake and climbed to<br />
<strong>the</strong> Engstenalp Chair, we knew we had had a good physical day<br />
in <strong>the</strong> best surroundings. But even better was <strong>the</strong> run down<br />
from Trubsee, in wonderful snow conditions on a wide curving<br />
track giving <strong>the</strong> boys a marvellous chance to show off in front<br />
of <strong>the</strong> girls. The latter unanimously decided <strong>the</strong> average male<br />
age had suddenly dropped very quickly. Near <strong>the</strong> bottom we<br />
stopped at <strong>the</strong> Bergrestaurant Untertrubsee, and had such a<br />
good time we missed <strong>the</strong> last bus and had to walk back to <strong>the</strong><br />
Hotel!<br />
Wednesday<br />
The next morning we reluctantly abandoned our sociable hotel<br />
to face a journey to our hut in a world obscured by low cloud<br />
and falling snow.<br />
We drove for an hour to <strong>the</strong> hamlet of Fell via Wolfenschiessen,<br />
where we piled into a small private cablecar which took us up<br />
to Bannalp, which whilst at some distance from Engleberg is <strong>the</strong><br />
next main valley on <strong>the</strong> north east side. From here we skied<br />
down to our Hut, <strong>the</strong> Berggasthaus Urnerstaffel. This was a<br />
much larger and grander affair than had been suggested in <strong>the</strong><br />
idle conversation at <strong>the</strong> Hotel bar on previous evenings. Even<br />
better we found we were between winter and summer seasons<br />
with an empty hut with a choice of single, double, or<br />
dormitory accommodation. There were showers and hot water,<br />
a well stocked bar, and plenty of good food. What luxury, <strong>the</strong>se<br />
Continentals appear to know a thing or two.<br />
Within half an hour our skins were on and we started up <strong>the</strong><br />
middle ridge in pristine snow, with cloud now rising above us,<br />
and with an increasing temperature encouraged us to strip to<br />
minimum clothing for <strong>the</strong> first time, such a contrast to previous<br />
days. Our target was <strong>the</strong> Bannalper-Schonegg Ridge 2,250 m,<br />
<strong>the</strong> route summer walkers take on a full days hike to Engelberg<br />
in <strong>the</strong> far distance.<br />
We passed through interesting land marks, Rosboden (Horse<br />
Meadow) a lovely softly curved hill with little exposed rock;<br />
SteinDorf (Stone Village) where fascinating and variedly shaped<br />
large rocks pierced through <strong>the</strong> snow. In <strong>the</strong> final event we<br />
made it only to within some 200 meters of <strong>the</strong> ridge when Sally<br />
Ireland's binding irreparably broke for walking purposes next<br />
to Church Rock at <strong>the</strong> end of <strong>the</strong> Stone Village. We were forced<br />
to return, skiing down by a different route pre-planned by<br />
Adolf, which involved several interesting detours and curves<br />
around small cliffs and large boulders on <strong>the</strong> East Side of <strong>the</strong><br />
valley. Then minus, <strong>the</strong> unfortunate Sally, we <strong>the</strong>n donned skis<br />
again and descended to <strong>the</strong> Bannalpsee lake in ever improving<br />
wea<strong>the</strong>r, followed by a very pleasant trek back through fir trees<br />
and evening sunshine to <strong>the</strong> hut.