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2003 - the DHO

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As we admired <strong>the</strong> view, <strong>the</strong> wind rose steadily drawing clouds<br />

up from <strong>the</strong> valley floor. We removed skins and skied down, our<br />

success lay in having created skiing for ourselves to <strong>the</strong> envy of<br />

o<strong>the</strong>rs who got no skiing that day and went in for a proper<br />

lunch. No one was keen to leave to face <strong>the</strong> elements again, but<br />

at Adolf's insistence we did. In <strong>the</strong> complete 'white-out', it was<br />

difficult to know how he managed to guide us to within a few<br />

yards of our intended destinations. But he did, and continued to<br />

do so for <strong>the</strong> rest of <strong>the</strong> week in a dazzling display of<br />

professional guiding.<br />

Tuesday<br />

A sunny day created much enthusiasm and we set out to return<br />

to <strong>the</strong> Jochpass ridge of <strong>the</strong> previous day. We passed over <strong>the</strong><br />

same slopes via cable car and chairs, this time being able to see<br />

a beautifully pristine snow covered world on <strong>the</strong> way, which<br />

made up for <strong>the</strong> disappointments of <strong>the</strong> previous day.<br />

From <strong>the</strong> ridge we skied down and past <strong>the</strong> Engstenalp chair<br />

and off <strong>the</strong> piste map to a frozen lake <strong>the</strong> Engstlensee. Here we<br />

donned skins, and tramped for half an hour across <strong>the</strong> flat<br />

corner of <strong>the</strong> lake, whilst watching an Ibex family being<br />

harassed by a fox. He appeared to be making continuous<br />

circular tracks in <strong>the</strong> hope of driving one of <strong>the</strong> agile creatures<br />

of <strong>the</strong> edge of <strong>the</strong> nearest cliff. Having made <strong>the</strong> lakeshore we<br />

set off up <strong>the</strong> Schafftal Valley into a silent world of spectacular<br />

mountain scenery.<br />

We climbed for 4 hours with a break for lunch, which also<br />

entailed long discussion asto which valley in <strong>the</strong> far distance<br />

contained Wengen. Clivc Mitchell produced a bottle of<br />

Fendant, but <strong>the</strong> game was up when it appeared he had only<br />

brought one glass. Sarah Edmonds worried incessantly how her<br />

hat looked; she liked it but daughter Anna didn't and had<br />

banned its use. We all agreed it was wonderful.<br />

©<br />

<strong>2003</strong><br />

The ski down was glorious in <strong>the</strong> most perfect snow, producing<br />

parallel tracks which convinced us all that we were better skiers<br />

than we really were. John Rigby stayed at <strong>the</strong> back to pick up<br />

stragglers, was it because he was out of breath, or that he<br />

wanted his perfectly carved turns to be noticed as he caught up?<br />

By <strong>the</strong> time wc had tramped <strong>the</strong> ice on <strong>the</strong> Lake and climbed to<br />

<strong>the</strong> Engstenalp Chair, we knew we had had a good physical day<br />

in <strong>the</strong> best surroundings. But even better was <strong>the</strong> run down<br />

from Trubsee, in wonderful snow conditions on a wide curving<br />

track giving <strong>the</strong> boys a marvellous chance to show off in front<br />

of <strong>the</strong> girls. The latter unanimously decided <strong>the</strong> average male<br />

age had suddenly dropped very quickly. Near <strong>the</strong> bottom we<br />

stopped at <strong>the</strong> Bergrestaurant Untertrubsee, and had such a<br />

good time we missed <strong>the</strong> last bus and had to walk back to <strong>the</strong><br />

Hotel!<br />

Wednesday<br />

The next morning we reluctantly abandoned our sociable hotel<br />

to face a journey to our hut in a world obscured by low cloud<br />

and falling snow.<br />

We drove for an hour to <strong>the</strong> hamlet of Fell via Wolfenschiessen,<br />

where we piled into a small private cablecar which took us up<br />

to Bannalp, which whilst at some distance from Engleberg is <strong>the</strong><br />

next main valley on <strong>the</strong> north east side. From here we skied<br />

down to our Hut, <strong>the</strong> Berggasthaus Urnerstaffel. This was a<br />

much larger and grander affair than had been suggested in <strong>the</strong><br />

idle conversation at <strong>the</strong> Hotel bar on previous evenings. Even<br />

better we found we were between winter and summer seasons<br />

with an empty hut with a choice of single, double, or<br />

dormitory accommodation. There were showers and hot water,<br />

a well stocked bar, and plenty of good food. What luxury, <strong>the</strong>se<br />

Continentals appear to know a thing or two.<br />

Within half an hour our skins were on and we started up <strong>the</strong><br />

middle ridge in pristine snow, with cloud now rising above us,<br />

and with an increasing temperature encouraged us to strip to<br />

minimum clothing for <strong>the</strong> first time, such a contrast to previous<br />

days. Our target was <strong>the</strong> Bannalper-Schonegg Ridge 2,250 m,<br />

<strong>the</strong> route summer walkers take on a full days hike to Engelberg<br />

in <strong>the</strong> far distance.<br />

We passed through interesting land marks, Rosboden (Horse<br />

Meadow) a lovely softly curved hill with little exposed rock;<br />

SteinDorf (Stone Village) where fascinating and variedly shaped<br />

large rocks pierced through <strong>the</strong> snow. In <strong>the</strong> final event we<br />

made it only to within some 200 meters of <strong>the</strong> ridge when Sally<br />

Ireland's binding irreparably broke for walking purposes next<br />

to Church Rock at <strong>the</strong> end of <strong>the</strong> Stone Village. We were forced<br />

to return, skiing down by a different route pre-planned by<br />

Adolf, which involved several interesting detours and curves<br />

around small cliffs and large boulders on <strong>the</strong> East Side of <strong>the</strong><br />

valley. Then minus, <strong>the</strong> unfortunate Sally, we <strong>the</strong>n donned skis<br />

again and descended to <strong>the</strong> Bannalpsee lake in ever improving<br />

wea<strong>the</strong>r, followed by a very pleasant trek back through fir trees<br />

and evening sunshine to <strong>the</strong> hut.

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