CARNET DE VOyagELa Fashion WheelTRAVEL DIARYLa Fashion WheelBERLINÉTAPE 2 / SECOND STOP40© olivier bassuetDana Roski & Joyce BinneboeseJoyce Binneboese (ancienne mannequin) et DanaRoski (directrice artistique, rédactrice mo<strong>de</strong> etlifesty<strong>le</strong>) ont créé en 2011 <strong>le</strong> concept store‘Wald Berlin’ qui est une vitrine <strong>de</strong> <strong>le</strong>urs coups<strong>de</strong> coeur durant <strong>le</strong>urs voyages à l’étranger.Personnel, intime et surprenant sont <strong>le</strong>s adjectifsqui caractérisent <strong>le</strong>s col<strong>le</strong>ctions exposées.Joyce Binneboese (former mo<strong>de</strong>l) and DanaRoski (artistic director and fashion and lifesty<strong>le</strong>editor) created the concept store “Wald Berlin”in 2011, a window into their favourite picks fromtheir international travels. Personal, intimate andsurprising are the adjectives that characterise thecol<strong>le</strong>ctions exhibited.www.wald-berlin.<strong>de</strong>FEDERICA ZAMBONFondatrice <strong>de</strong> la boutique « Wok Store » en 2007avec Simona Citarella.Le sty<strong>le</strong> est éc<strong>le</strong>ctique, combinant <strong>de</strong>s produitsuniques réalisés par <strong>de</strong>s artistes contemporains,avant-gardistes et conceptuels... Dans un universartistique et <strong>de</strong>sign se mê<strong>le</strong>nt <strong>de</strong>s créations<strong>de</strong> tous horizons (al<strong>le</strong>mand, canadien, britannique…),<strong>de</strong>s livres, <strong>de</strong>s meub<strong>le</strong>s, <strong>de</strong>s bijoux…Fe<strong>de</strong>rica is the foun<strong>de</strong>r of the boutique “WokStore” in 2007 along with Simona Citarella.The sty<strong>le</strong> is ec<strong>le</strong>ctic, combining unique productscreated by contemporary, avant-gar<strong>de</strong> andconceptual artists. In a universe of art and <strong>de</strong>sign,creations from all over mix together (Germany,Canada, Britain etc.), with books, furniture, jewel<strong>le</strong>ryand more.www.WOk-STOre.com© thomas BOHBOT41Des chemisiers transparents,<strong>de</strong>s boissons à la banane etune pi<strong>le</strong> <strong>de</strong> containers en p<strong>le</strong>incentre-vil<strong>le</strong>. Bienvenue à Berlin,2ème étape <strong>de</strong> La FashionWheel qui fait <strong>le</strong>s mol<strong>le</strong>ts biendurs.Dana et Joyce, <strong>le</strong>s patronnes <strong>de</strong>la boutique Wald se sont misessur <strong>le</strong>ur 31 pour nous recevoir.Bro<strong>de</strong>ries, transparence etbaskets Nike <strong>de</strong>rnier cri. Merci<strong>le</strong>s fil<strong>le</strong>s ! Dans <strong>le</strong>ur boutique,<strong>le</strong>s <strong>de</strong>ux copines prônent uneélégance mo<strong>de</strong>rne, audacieuseet tota<strong>le</strong>ment décomp<strong>le</strong>xée.Concrètement ? Lesfemmes ont <strong>le</strong> droit <strong>de</strong> porter<strong>de</strong>s micros short lamés et <strong>de</strong>schemises d’homme à impriméBabar. Oui, pourquoi pas ?Mais est-ce bien raisonnab<strong>le</strong>pour un homme <strong>de</strong> porter unechemise en jean à bro<strong>de</strong>riesai<strong>le</strong>s d’ange ? El<strong>le</strong>s y croient.Alors, on <strong>le</strong>s suit jusque dansla cabine d’essayage. Puis on<strong>le</strong>s suit encore lorsqu’el<strong>le</strong>sgrimpent sur <strong>le</strong>s vélos en direction<strong>de</strong> <strong>le</strong>ur nouveau restaurantfavori.Ouvert il y a <strong>de</strong>ux mois, DistrictMot propose <strong>de</strong> la streetfood vietnamienne aussi bonnequ’explosive. La tab<strong>le</strong> se remplitd’une multitu<strong>de</strong> <strong>de</strong> chosesfol<strong>le</strong>s. On est un peu lourd,mais on est bien. Commentarroser tout ça ? Deux options :bière vietnamienne ou jus <strong>de</strong>banane glacé. On opte pour lasecon<strong>de</strong> option, car il y a encore<strong>de</strong> la route à faire.Planté au milieu <strong>de</strong> la vil<strong>le</strong>,Platoon est un lieu à partconstitué d’une série <strong>de</strong> containersnorma<strong>le</strong>ment utilisésdans <strong>le</strong> transport maritime. ÀPlatoon, on peut boire, faire lafête, se cultiver, regar<strong>de</strong>r <strong>de</strong>sfilms mais jamais à la légère.Car ici, on a « une mission » :« faire la promotion <strong>de</strong> toutes<strong>le</strong>s contre-cultures ». Énormeprogramme. Il est tempsd’al<strong>le</strong>r reprendre <strong>de</strong>s forces.See-through blouses, bananadrinks, and a pi<strong>le</strong> of cargocontainers in the midd<strong>le</strong> of thecity. Welcome to Berlin, 2ndstop on the Fashion Wheelwhich gives you well-musc<strong>le</strong>dcalves.Dana and Joyce, the ownersof the Wald boutique, dressedto the nines to welcome us:Embroi<strong>de</strong>ry, transparency andthe hottest new Nike sneakers.Thanks, girls! In theirshop, the two friends promotean e<strong>le</strong>gance that is mo<strong>de</strong>rn,daring and totally uninhibited.What does that mean, exactly?That women have the right towear lamé micro-minis withmen’s shirts in a Babar print.Sure, why not? But can a manget away with wearing a <strong>de</strong>nimshirt embroi<strong>de</strong>red with angel’swings? They certainly think so!We surren<strong>de</strong>r and follow themto the dressing room. Then wefollow them again when they geton their bikes to take us to theirfavorite new restaurant.Opened two months ago, DistrictMot serves Vietnamesestreet food that is as good as it isspicy. Soon the tab<strong>le</strong> is coveredwith a multitu<strong>de</strong> of wild dishes.We’re a bit full, but we’re happy.What to drink with our feast?Two options: Vietnamese beeror iced banana juice. We optfor the second because we stillhave some biking to do.Parked in the center of the city,Platoon is an astonishing placecreated from a series of cargocontainers usually used forshipping. At Platoon, you candrink, party, catch some culture,and watch films, but it’s not allfun and games — they have “amission”: To promote all counter-cultures.That’s quite a task!It’s time to recharge our batteries.M.BDes sanda<strong>le</strong>s ailées, un viny<strong>le</strong>d’H Burns et une promena<strong>de</strong>romantique trop vite avortée.Bienvenue à Milan, 3ème étape<strong>de</strong> La Fashion Wheel qui faitvoir du pays. Fe<strong>de</strong>rica est là,sur <strong>le</strong> pied <strong>de</strong> guerre. Dans saboutique Wok, el<strong>le</strong> fait sa cuisinemo<strong>de</strong>, homme et femme,pointue et cool, exigeante etaudacieuse. Concrètement?Chez Wok, on peut trouver <strong>de</strong>ssanda<strong>le</strong>ttes ailées, <strong>de</strong>s treillisasymétriques et <strong>de</strong>s chaussurestransparentes. On serabattra pru<strong>de</strong>mment sur unesuper paire <strong>de</strong> lunettes <strong>de</strong> lamarque Super. Dans <strong>le</strong> sillage<strong>de</strong> Fe<strong>de</strong>rica, qui pour l’occasiona enfilé un cuissard à bro<strong>de</strong>riequi ferait envie à n’importequel vainqueur <strong>de</strong> la Gran<strong>de</strong>Bouc<strong>le</strong>, on rejoint bientôtSeren<strong>de</strong>epity, la <strong>de</strong>rnière boutique<strong>de</strong> disques <strong>de</strong> Milan.La faute au Net, à la crise etau téléchargement. Mais Nicola,<strong>le</strong> patron, résiste. Danssa boutique à <strong>de</strong>ux niveaux,il vend aussi <strong>de</strong>s accessoireset fringues vintage. C’est madamequi s’occupe <strong>de</strong> cettepartie. Monsieur gère la musique.Avec un goût infaillib<strong>le</strong>.La preuve ? Un disque dugroupe H Burns trône en évi<strong>de</strong>ncedans la boutique. Leso<strong>le</strong>il se couche sur Milan.En amoureux, avec Fe<strong>de</strong>rica,nous traversons la vil<strong>le</strong> àvélo, avant d’arriver dans unsp<strong>le</strong>ndi<strong>de</strong> lieu <strong>de</strong> restauration,Cascina Cuccagna. Une sal<strong>le</strong>spacieuse, un jardin colossal,un potager… On est bien, là,au milieu <strong>de</strong>s élégants milanais,avec un verre <strong>de</strong> Spritz.La perspective d’un doux repasen tête-à-tête se précise. MaisFe<strong>de</strong>rica a une mauvaise nouvel<strong>le</strong>à nous annoncer : sonpetit copain va débarquer d’uneminute à l’autre.Winged sandals, H-Burns onvinyl, and a romantic outing cutshort. Welcome to Milan, 3rdstep of La Fashion Wheel thatshows you the sights. There’sFe<strong>de</strong>rica, ready to go. In her boutique,Wok, she cooks up men’sand women’s fashion that is upto-the-minuteand cool, <strong>de</strong>mandingand daring. What does thatmean, exactly? At Wok you’llfind winged sandals, asymmetricalfatigues and transparentshoes. We pru<strong>de</strong>ntly sett<strong>le</strong> fora fantastic pair of glasses fromSuper. Following Fe<strong>de</strong>rica, whohas slipped on a pair of embroi<strong>de</strong>redcycling shorts that wouldmake any Tour <strong>de</strong> France winnergreen with envy, we bike offtowards Seren<strong>de</strong>epity, Milan’slast record store.In spite of the explosion of Internetmusic downloads and therecession, Nicola, the owner,resists. His two-story shop alsosells vintage clothes and accessories,hand<strong>le</strong>d by his wife. Hehand<strong>le</strong>s the music - and withimpeccab<strong>le</strong> taste. Proof? TheH-Burns album prominentlydisplayed in the shop. Over Milan,the sun is setting. Fe<strong>de</strong>ricaand I take a romantic ri<strong>de</strong> acrossthe city to reach the sp<strong>le</strong>ndidtemp<strong>le</strong> of culinary arts, CascinaCuccagna. A spacious diningroom, an enormous gar<strong>de</strong>n,even a vegetab<strong>le</strong> patch… It feelsgood to be here, surroun<strong>de</strong>dby e<strong>le</strong>gant Milanese, sipping aglass of Spritz. Dinner is startingto look like a romantic têteà-tête,but then Fe<strong>de</strong>rica breaksthe bad news: her boyfriend willsoon be here to join us.M.BMILANÉTAPE 3 / THIRD STOP
CARNET DE VOyagELa Fashion WheelTRAVEL DIARYLa Fashion WheelLONDRESÉTAPE 4 / FOURTH STOPAMSTERDAMÉTAPE 5 / FIFTH STOP42© marc cortesSARAH ANGOLDEl<strong>le</strong> est la fondatrice du Sarah Angold Studio qui alliegraphisme, structures mathématiques et ‘process’industriels. Il regroupe plusieurs <strong>de</strong>signers <strong>de</strong>différentes spécialités qui utilisent <strong>de</strong>s technologiescomme la découpe au laser ou <strong>le</strong> travail <strong>de</strong>s matériauxpar l’aci<strong>de</strong>. La création <strong>de</strong> bijoux est une <strong>de</strong>sspécialités <strong>de</strong> Sarah.She is the foun<strong>de</strong>r of the Sarah Angold Studio, whichcombines graphics, mathematical structures andindustrial processes. It regroups numerous <strong>de</strong>signersfrom different specialties who use technologies such aslaser-cutting or using acid to work materials. Jewel<strong>le</strong>ry<strong>de</strong>sign is one of Sarah’s specialties.www.sarahangold.comNick Van AalstNick et ses acolytes Pieter, Nils et Reinier ont créé laboutique Hutspot. Ce n’est pas un concept store ni unpop-up store mais tout simp<strong>le</strong>ment l’endroit <strong>le</strong> plus envogue d’Amsterdam. Ils ont décidé d’ouvrir ce magasinpour donner la chance à <strong>de</strong> jeunes entrepreneurs d’exposeret <strong>de</strong> vendre <strong>le</strong>ur col<strong>le</strong>ction. Un endroit déjanté(on y trouve vêtements, livres, plantes ou sessions <strong>de</strong>yoga), tremplin pour <strong>de</strong> nombreux jeunes créateurs.Nick and his associates Pieter, Nils and Reinier createdthe boutique Hutspot. It is not a concept store, nora pop-up store, but is simply the most chic place inAmsterdam. They <strong>de</strong>ci<strong>de</strong>d to open this store to giveyoung entrepreneurs the chance to exhibit and selltheir col<strong>le</strong>ctions. An off-the-wall space (here you’ll findclothes, books, plants and yoga sessions), a springboardfor numerous young <strong>de</strong>signers.www.hutspotaMSTErdam.cOM© marc cortes43Des milkshakes à la banane,<strong>de</strong>s lunettes <strong>de</strong> so<strong>le</strong>il et SarahAngold... Bienvenue à Londres,4ème et avant-<strong>de</strong>rnière étape<strong>de</strong> La Fashion Wheel qui faitaimer <strong>le</strong>s femmes. La journéedémarre <strong>de</strong> façon complètementparfaite, par unerencontre que l’on pourraitqualifier <strong>de</strong> «coup <strong>de</strong> foudre»si <strong>le</strong> ciel n’était pas b<strong>le</strong>uau-<strong>de</strong>ssus <strong>de</strong> Londres. Dansune ancienne écurie, réhabilitéeen concept store mettanten avant <strong>le</strong> savoir-faire anglaisThe New Craftsmen, Sarah Angoldnous accueil<strong>le</strong>. Yeux b<strong>le</strong>us,coupe Twiggy et humour à fairepasser Sacha Baron Cohenpour un inspecteur <strong>de</strong>s impôts,Sarah fabrique <strong>de</strong>s bijoux àpartir <strong>de</strong> matériaux généra<strong>le</strong>mentutilisés dans l’industrie.Autant dire que la chose estspectaculaire, mais portab<strong>le</strong>.La preuve ? On a un collier autourdu cou. « Il te fait penserà quoi ? » <strong>de</strong>man<strong>de</strong> Sarah. «Parce qu’il y a <strong>de</strong>ux catégories<strong>de</strong> gens : ceux qui pensent à<strong>de</strong>s oreil<strong>le</strong>s <strong>de</strong> Mickey, et <strong>le</strong>sautres… » Nous faisons partie<strong>de</strong>s autres. Ce collier a indubitab<strong>le</strong>mentquelque chose <strong>de</strong>phallique. Mais passons.Direction <strong>le</strong> Breakfast Clubpour une pause déjeuner fol<strong>le</strong>mentgrasse. Mais tel<strong>le</strong>mentbonne. Deux milkshakes à labanane plus tard (<strong>le</strong> milkshakeà la banane est <strong>de</strong>venu une addiction),nous revoilà en sel<strong>le</strong>.Direction un bar secret <strong>de</strong>Shoreditch, <strong>le</strong> NightJar, dans<strong>le</strong>quel la barmaid Martina fait<strong>de</strong>s exploits et nous amène<strong>de</strong> façon très subti<strong>le</strong> vers unedouce ivresse. Sarah n’a jamaisété aussi drô<strong>le</strong>. Et je n’ai jamaisété aussi charmé. Au chant <strong>de</strong>spetits oiseaux, nous pouvonsfi<strong>le</strong>r, quelques mètres plusloin, vers la boutique Start oùnous attend une <strong>de</strong>s sé<strong>le</strong>ctionsfemme <strong>le</strong>s plus complètes <strong>de</strong>la vil<strong>le</strong>. Sarah voudrait bienune robe Martin Margiela. Maisc’est un peu cher. Et <strong>le</strong> festival<strong>de</strong> la bière vient <strong>de</strong> démarrer àquelques tours <strong>de</strong> roues <strong>de</strong> là.Banana milkshakes, sunglassesand Sarah Angold... Welcome toLondon, 4th stop of La FashionWheel which makes you lovewomen. The day begins perfectlywith a meeting which <strong>le</strong>ftme thun<strong>de</strong>rstruck, even thoughthere wasn’t a cloud in the Londonsky. Housed in a renovatedstab<strong>le</strong>, The New Craftsmenconcept store is a showcaseof English savoir-faire. We’rewelcomed by Sarah Angold:blue eyes, a Twiggy haircut anda sense of humor that makesSacha Baron Cohen look likea tax inspector. Sarah createsjewelry from re-interpretedindustrial materials. Her piecesare extraordinary, but still wearab<strong>le</strong>.Proof? I try on a necklace.“What does it make you thinkof?” asks Sarah. “Peop<strong>le</strong> fall intotwo categories: those who thinkit looks like Mickey Mouse earsand the others…” We obviouslyfall into the second category,for the necklace looks <strong>de</strong>ci<strong>de</strong>dlyphallic.We head off to Breakfast Clubfor a <strong>de</strong>liciously calorific lunchbreak. But it’s worth it! Two bananamilkshakes later, (they’readdictive!) we climb back on ourbikes.Our <strong>de</strong>stination is a secretShoreditch bar, NightJar, inwhich Martina, the barmaid,works her magic and stealthilymakes us p<strong>le</strong>asantly tipsy. Sarahis funnier than ever, and me, I’mmore charmed than ever. Whenthe birds begin to sing, it’s timeto head over to the nearby Start,a boutique with one of city’slargest se<strong>le</strong>ctions of womenswear.Sarah falls in love witha Martin Margiela dress, but it’sa tad expensive. And just a fewpedal strokes away, a beer festivalis just getting started…M.BRyan Gosling, <strong>de</strong>s burgersdégoulinants et un coupe-chousur la caroti<strong>de</strong>. Bienvenue àAmsterdam, cinquième et <strong>de</strong>rnièreétape <strong>de</strong> la Fashion Wheelqui nous laissera beaucoup <strong>de</strong>souvenirs. Nick ressemb<strong>le</strong> àRyan Gosling, et c’est bien <strong>le</strong>problème : il pourrait clairementnous faire <strong>de</strong> l’ombre.Heureusement, Nick comprendvite qui est <strong>le</strong> patron et se metà notre service pour nous faire<strong>le</strong> tour <strong>de</strong> sa boutique Hutspot.Sur <strong>de</strong>ux étages, dans un superbeespace avoisinant sansdoute la tail<strong>le</strong> d’un terrain <strong>de</strong>foot, se mê<strong>le</strong>nt mo<strong>de</strong>, décoration,vélos, vintage et neuf. Ona envie <strong>de</strong> beaucoup <strong>de</strong> chosesmais Nick sait nous prendrepar <strong>le</strong>s sentiments. Après ungros quart d’heure <strong>de</strong> lèchevitrine,il nous suggère <strong>de</strong> montersur nos vélos en direction<strong>de</strong> The Butcher, «<strong>le</strong> meil<strong>le</strong>urburger d’Amsterdam» selonlui. Effectivement nous voilàrapi<strong>de</strong>ment attablés <strong>de</strong>vant unsacré truc baptisé «The Daddy»<strong>de</strong> plus <strong>de</strong> 300g <strong>de</strong> vian<strong>de</strong> enprovenance directe d’Aber<strong>de</strong>en.Arrosé d’un milkshake <strong>de</strong> plus(<strong>le</strong> 23ème <strong>de</strong> la tournée, sérieen cours), la bête passe parfaitementbien. Nous avons<strong>le</strong> ventre rempli et <strong>le</strong>s doigtssa<strong>le</strong>s. Il est temps <strong>de</strong> remontersur nos engins et d’al<strong>le</strong>r nousfaire bichonner. A The Barber,<strong>le</strong>s hommes prennent soin <strong>de</strong><strong>le</strong>ur barbe un verre à la main.Martin, lui-même chau<strong>de</strong>mentvêtu au niveau visage, nous invitedonc à nous asseoir <strong>de</strong>vantson miroir. Délicatement, il sortson coupe-chou et se penchesur nous. L’instrument frô<strong>le</strong>notre caroti<strong>de</strong>. La sueur cou<strong>le</strong>sur notre front, et <strong>le</strong>s images<strong>de</strong> ces <strong>de</strong>rniers jours défi<strong>le</strong>nt<strong>de</strong>vant nos yeux. L’ivresse auvin naturel à Paris, <strong>le</strong>s vêtementstransparents à Berlin, <strong>le</strong>viny<strong>le</strong> d’H Burns à Milan, SarahAngold à Londres... Ce seraittrop bête que tout s’arrêtecomme ça. Nous avons encoretant à découvrir sur notre véloPeugeot.Ryan Gosling, dripping burgers,and a cut-throat razor on thecarotid artery. Welcome to Amsterdam,the fifth and final stageof La Fashion Wheel which <strong>le</strong>ftus with many memories. Nicklooks like Ryan Gosling, andthat’s the prob<strong>le</strong>m: he couldc<strong>le</strong>arly overshadow us. Luckily,Nick un<strong>de</strong>rstands quicklywho the boss is here, and getsto work giving us a tour aroundhis boutique, Hutspot. Over twofloors in a superb space covering,without doubt, the size ofa football pitch, fashion andinterior <strong>de</strong>sign mix with bikes,vintage and new. We want lotsof things but Nick knows howto sweet talk us. After a goodquarter of an hour windowshopping,he suggests we geton our bikes and head for TheButcher, “the best burger inAmsterdam” according to him.We quickly found ourselves satbefore a sacred thing baptised“The Daddy”, of more than 300gof meat straight from Aber<strong>de</strong>en.Washed down with a milkshake(the 23rd of the tour, a series inthe making), this monster wentdown perfectly. With full stomachsand dirty hands, it wastime to get back on our vehic<strong>le</strong>sand get ourselves dol<strong>le</strong>d up.At The Barber, men take careof their beards with a glass inhand. Martin, sporting somerather fine facial hair himself,invited us to sit down in frontof his mirror. Delicately, hebrought out his cut-throat razorand <strong>le</strong>aned in. The instrumentbrushed past our carotid arteries.The sweat slid down ourforeheads, and the images ofthe last few days flash beforeour eyes. Getting drunk on naturalwine in Paris, transparentclothes in Berlin, an H Burnsvinyl in Milan, Sarah Angold inLondon... It would be so silly forit to finish just like that. We stillhave so much to discover on ourPeugeot’s bikes.M.B