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USSELL NORMAN won’t be taking a romantic break in Venice any time soon. Th e city that has for more than 20 years been his favourite destination for art, architecture, history, food and, yes, romance, is now, according to his wife, all about work. ‘She says I’ve ruined it for her,’ says the restaurateur who made his name bringing Venetian-style wine bars (bàcari) to London. Canoodling in bàcari turned into research for Polpo, Norman’s fi rst venture with business partner Richard Beatty, and subsequently into more research for the hit eatery’s fi rst cookbook. Norman and Beatty now run three branches of Polpo in London (in Soho, Covent Garden and Smithfi eld), plus two other hotspots: Spuntino (a hip New York-style diner) and Mishkin’s (Norman’s take on a Jewish deli). Whether you call it irony or destiny, Beatty is the college friend who fi rst invited Norman to Venice in the late 1980s. Th e story of Polpo is full of such coincidences. Th e Beak Street building in which their fi rst branch is housed was once home to baroque-era Venetian painter Canaletto, and it was on the pavement outside that Norman fi rst met Venetian cookery teacher Enrica Rocca, whose studio apartment is right by the Dorsoduro hotel where Norman always stays. PRIVATCITY Thirty-Six ‘The places that inspired Polpo are dotted around Venice and I visit them every time I’m there’ ‘She told me off for serving capers in an octopus salad,’ he says wryly. Rocca has since become something of a culinary mentor to Norman, though Polpo’s kitchens and recipes have always aimed to reference Venetian bàcari rather than replicate them. ‘Most of the places that inspired Polpo are dotted around Venice and I need to visit them at least once every time I’m there,’ he says. Th at’s a personal requirement rather than a business one. ‘It’s like I have to touch base or mentally tick them off my list of things to do,’ he reveals. With fans now using the Polpo cookbook’s bàcari guide as a route map away from Venice’s notoriously poor restaurant tourist traps, you can expect his favourites to be busy. Also on Norman’s Venetian to-do list is catching a traghetto, one of the beaten-up gondola ferries that locals use Previous page, left: Ai Barbacani restaurant (and right) whole sea bream. Right: Polpo’s Russell Norman was inspired by Venice’s informal bar-restaurants. Below: catching a traghetto is a must. Bottom: warm octopus salad (without capers) PHOTOSTHROUGHOUT©JENNYZARINSTIMWHITE
RUSSELL NORMAN’S BÀCARI CRAWL CANTINONE GIÀ SCHIAVI ‘From the outside Cantinone looks like a wine shop. When you are inside, it still looks like a wine shop. Actually it is a wine shop, but it also happens to be one of the most characterful bàcari in all of Venice.’ Dorsoduro 992, Ponte San Trovaso, +39 041 523 0034 AL PONTE ‘This is one of those places that seems to appeal more to locals than to tourists and that, it has to be said, is a fi ne thing. Of special note is the excellent muséto – a sticky, rich sausage similar to cotechino but made with the pig’s head rather than its trotters.’ Cannaregio 6378, Ponte del Cavallo, +39 041 528 6157 ALLA VEDOVA ‘The meatballs – or polpette in Italian – are especially deserving of mention. They are soft spheres of ground veal, seasoned with white pepper and coated in breadcrumbs before being fried. They are rightly famous and alone worth the pilgrimage.’ Cannaregio 3912, Ramo Ca’ d’Oro, +39 041 528 5324 ALL’ARCO ‘A real bàcari – standing room only, point and eat, simple local wines by the glass and an eclectic social melting pot. Ask nicely and Francesco [the owner] will conjure up an impromptu bìgoli in salsa (pasta with anchovies).’ San Polo 436, Calle dell’Occhialer, +39 041 520 5666
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