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7 Erik Madigan Heck
Born 09.09.1983 in Excelsior, Minnesota, USA. Lives and works in New York. Exhibitions (selection) Etro
Milano Space, Salone Internazionale del Mobile, Milan, 09.04.2013 / Avant/Garde Diaries Project Space,
New York, 06.–24.09.2012 / Ring Cube Gallery, Tokyo, 21.09.–09.10.2011 / Chelsea Art Museum, New York,
25.02.–08.04.2010 / Parsons School For Design, New York, 29.08.–12.09.2009. Publications (selection)
DICA, ed. by Erik Madigan Heck, London 2013 / Tremblant Vielfache, ed. by Erik Madigan Heck, Berlin 2011 /
Photographs of Color, ed. by Erik Madigan Heck, Copenhagen 2011 / Nomenus Quarterly, volumes 1–10,
ed. by Eric Madigan Heck, New York 2007–2011. Website www.maisondesprit.com. Exhibits The Corner,
a co-production of Maison d’Esprit and Ann Demeulemeester, camera and art direction: Erik Madigan Heck,
running time: 2:55 minutes / The End, camera and art direction: Erik Madigan Heck, running time:
6:11 minutes. Lender Erik Madigan Heck.
The work of the photographer and film-maker
Erik Madigan Heck explores the grey areas between
fashion, painting and classical portraiture. His
unique perspective has made the 29-year-old a pop -
ular photographer with various clients from the
fashion world, such as Haider Ackermann, Comme
Des Garçons, Rochas, Giambattista Valli, Kenzo,
Mary Katrantzou and The Row. “I have been lucky
to work with my favourite designers on a very per -
sonal level,” says Heck. This also holds true for the
super 8 short films he has made in the past four
years, in which he merges fashion and music
in a coherent union that goes beyond the typical
glamorous high-gloss fashion aesthetic. The
two films he developed in co-operation with Ann
Demeulemeester are on view in the Frankfurt
exhibition. The End and The Corner offer poetic
insights into the world of the Belgian fashion
designer. They show her grunge- and punk-influ -
enced designs with all of their inherent romance.
Ann Demeulemeester
Born 29.12.1957 in Waregem, Belgium. Lives and works in Antwerp. Label Ann Demeulemeester, founded 1985. Collections
One women’s and men’s collection per season as well as a line of shoes and accessories. Presentations (selection) Paris Fashion
Week, Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter. Website www.anndemeulemeester.be. Exhibits The Corner / The End, see above.
Along with Walter Van Beirendonck, Dries Van Noten, Dirk
Van Saene, Dirk Bikkembergs and Marina Yee, Ann Demeule -
meester belongs to the so-called “Antwerp Six”, who estab -
lished the reputation of Belgian fashion designers as “concep-
tualists”. The members of the collective were all graduates
of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp and made their
first appearance on the international fashion scene in 1986
at the London Fashion Week. Although they each have an in di -
vidual style, they are united by an aspiration towards purity,
towards an essence that, in their view, constitutes fashion.
Demeulemeester is considered to be the founder of the aes the t -
ic of the incomplete. In her first Paris fashion show, she
presented black designs on pale-faced models, designs which
were described by critics as “dismal” and “maladjusted”.
These garments corresponded with the aesthetics of a musical
genre that was new at the time, which was to go down
in history as grunge. Bands like Nirvana, Soundgarden and
Alice in Chains represented a raw and “dirty” sound, heavily
influenced by punk rock and metal; the Belgian designer
supplied the analogous fashion design – fashion full of longing
for independence and authenticity. To this day Ann
De meu lemeester presents very distinct designs every season
in Paris, with a unique, unconventional aesthetic. She is also
considered to be one of the few self-reliant fashion designers
today, working independently, both creatively and financially,
of the large fashion conglomerates.
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