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3 Boris Bidjan Saberi
Born 11.09.1978 in Munich. Lives and works in Barcelona. Label Boris Bidjan Saberi, founded 2006.
Collections Two men’s collections per year. Presentations Paris Fashion Week, Spring/Summer
and Autumn/Winter. Publications Boris Bidjan Saberi, ed. Atlante Srl, Bologna 2013.
Website www.borisbidjansaberi.com. Exhibit BODY. SKIN – BODY. Lender Boris Bidjan Saberi.
Boris Bidjan Saberi is very strict with his designs.
The son of a German mother and a Persian father,
he has a very precise vision of what works for him
and what does not. Each season he attempts to
explore this afresh. In an almost meditative ritu -
al he redefines himself, tries to forget the past,
shields himself from external influences, in order
to create something new, something which corre -
s ponds to his condition at the time, his nature, a
point of origin. What he seeks to endeavour is to
find the essence of a moment within himself – that
which is true and important at a certain instant.
All of his collections have something in common:
They always take Saberi’s own body as a starting
point, they are tailored to his physique, embodying
his idea of masculinity, radiating a strongly ar -
chaic, gladiatorial presence beyond the superficial
aplomb of men in suits. The material merges with
the body, forms a unity with it, makes the inside out -
wardly visible rather than veiled.
The two body sculptures designed by Saberi
for the Frankfurt exhibition represent this concept
of fashion design. Conspicuously, they are nude
– which from Saberi’s perspective is only logical.
For rather than designing mere outer shells, his
aim is to lend the body and the entity living within
it poise and stability. The focus here is on the
body. But what sort of bodies are these that are
being shown by Saberi in Frankfurt? Their sinewy
surface texture recalls the transparent leather,
produced by Saberi in a sophisticated chemical
pro cess, which is frequently used as a material in
his collections. Another striking aspect is that
the figures symbolise a masculinity that is more
ar chaically mystical than human. Like creatures
from legends their stature is oversized, hunched
in a slightly bashful way, with deep slits in place
of their heads. They are the manifestation of pure
ambivalence, the attempt to reconcile concep -
tions of virility with internal conflicts. Loathsome,
veined bodies with milky skin, without heads or
sex, they possess their own distinctive and fasci -
na ting aesthetic, and thus perhaps approximate
with greater accuracy the reality of the corporeal.
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