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Machine Quilting Unlimited - Special Edition - Winter 2011

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Art Studio<br />

1<br />

2<br />

3<br />

<strong>Quilting</strong> by the Slightly Obsessive<br />

© 2009 Nancy G. Cook<br />

People often ask me about my quilting<br />

process. There is no one answer, but<br />

techniques learned from the masters provide<br />

the tools for allowing the design and<br />

the quilting to be integrated. In planning<br />

the design I take into account where the<br />

quilting will show up and where it will<br />

play a subordinate role to focal points.<br />

(Photo 1, Before the Waxwings)<br />

Setting Up to Quilt<br />

A batting of wool and polyester blend is<br />

easy to work and does not retain creases<br />

if folded. On Ruth McDowell’s advice,<br />

I use a backing fabric of heavy weight<br />

decorator cotton, which reduces the<br />

likelihood of quilting in tucks on the<br />

backing.<br />

One of the challenges is for the finished<br />

wall quilt to lie straight and flat after<br />

quilting heavily in some areas and only<br />

outlining others. Step one is to square<br />

the backing and top layer with each<br />

other when preparing the quilt sandwich<br />

(top, batting and backing). Next<br />

I pin baste closely with long Japanese<br />

flower-head pins. I used to use bent<br />

safety pins but they killed my fingers.<br />

Sharp straight pins reduce stress on the<br />

hands. (Photo 2)<br />

I then hand baste in a three-inch grid<br />

of half-inch stitches, using silk thread<br />

and a fine needle. Silk slides easily<br />

through the layers, reduces stress on<br />

the hands and speeds along. I learned<br />

the importance of fine basting from<br />

Cherilyn Martin. I remove the pins<br />

as I baste. Hand basting may seem<br />

redundant, but it helps to secure the<br />

sandwich throughout the quilting<br />

process. (Photo 3)<br />

Selecting Threads—<br />

A Joy, Two Ways<br />

The fun begins with selecting the quilting<br />

threads. An analysis of what will set<br />

off the design helps guide the selections.<br />

Does the design need to be warmer,<br />

cooler, more definition, softer? While<br />

the quilting is important, I use threads<br />

that blend with background or design<br />

elements, rather than creating strong<br />

contrasts. I love variegated threads<br />

that have little value changes. They are<br />

hard to find, but worth looking for. The<br />

first selection will be modified during<br />

quilting. Thread becomes my paint for<br />

the details. I love the King Tut Tone on<br />

Tone, YLI <strong>Machine</strong> quilting, Mettler silkfinish<br />

multi, some Sulky Blendables,<br />

and Oliver Twist. I recently used the<br />

variegated YLI silk thread and loved it.<br />

I will add more of these to my thread<br />

stash. Invariably I find that I need to<br />

purchase a new thread—or two—or<br />

three. Oh joy! (Photo 4)<br />

Setting up the <strong>Machine</strong> for<br />

<strong>Quilting</strong><br />

On the advice of Linda Fiedler and Libby<br />

Lehman, I purchased a single needle<br />

soleplate for the sewing machine. It gives<br />

a much nicer stitch for both straight<br />

stitching and free-motion stitching. I use<br />

the single needle soleplate, an embroidery<br />

sewing machine needle that allows<br />

me to change threads easily, and I clean<br />

out and oil the machine before beginning.<br />

Before quilting, I double-check<br />

the thread balance on a sample quilt<br />

sandwich. I use an open-toed embroidery<br />

foot and the built-in walking foot on<br />

my old 1473 Pfaff. Feed dogs are UP and<br />

28 <strong>Machine</strong> <strong>Quilting</strong> <strong>Unlimited</strong> | <strong>Special</strong> <strong>Edition</strong> <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2011</strong>

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