THE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2011 - PrivatAir

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Th e chef and co-owner is Antonio Vieira, whose cooking is clearly infl uenced by Japan and the Far East, hence the sushi bar, but translated into a local idiom with freshly caught seafood, the region’s best beef, black pork and alheira sausage. Portions are authentically Portuguese – huge. Th e extensive menu lists miso soup with clams and tofu, scallops tartar with coconut and lemongrass soup, and grilled shrimp with mild curry alongside gutsy meat dishes such as duck with black pepper crust and vanilla, or lamb with chestnut and mushroom crumble. Th ere are light but luxurious dishes for dieters (lobster salad with asparagus) or massive steaks for trenchermen. It’s all delicious with fresh, clean tastes and stylish presentation perfectly complemented by the wine list of mainly Portuguese wines, many available by the glass. At night when the sun sets across the water and the lights come on, Shis is an illuminated jewel box perched above the water’s edge as the Atlantic pounds the shore. Praia do Ourigo Esplanada do Castelo, Foz do Douro, 4150-623 Porto, Portugal, +351 226 189593 SCHILO�RESTAURANT Finca Cortesin is a serenely beautiful resort in the rolling foothills of the Casares mountains, a discreet distance from Sotogrande. Just a few years ago, this was bare land dotted with scrubby carob and olive trees. Now there is a palace set in 70 acres with manicured lawns and rose gardens with sweeping views over the Mediterranean. Th ere are airy courtyards and shady arcades, with heavy wooden doors, traditional tiles and a wealth of antiques: it feels old, like the country home of a Spanish grandee. Some visitors are drawn by the privacy and unhurried luxury, some by the superb spa, others by the championship golf course, which has just hosted the World Matchplay Championship. But the gourmet traveller has his sights on an exceptional restaurant, Schilo, named after the shy but immensely talented chef Schilo van Coevorden, who was last year hailed as the best chef in Spain. Schilo is responsible for all the restaurants within the resort including the traditional Andalusian cooking of El Jardín and a broad international menu for the alfresco and pool areas. But in his signature restaurant, Schilo has drawn on his experience in Asia and Japan to create a distinct style of elaborate, playful and utterly delicious dishes. You can choose a traditional three-course à la carte menu but it’s much better to launch into one of the multi-course tasting menus featuring dishes such as beetroot ice with caviar, soy-glazed eel sushi, green papaya salad with spider crab, foie gras gyoza with black truffl e, crystal sea bass with wild vanilla, turbot with miso, and milk lamb with date jus and Arabic rice. Th ere is also a vegetarian tasting menu featuring vegetables, fruit and herbs just picked from the estate’s own beds. Dishes are bursting with fl avour yet presented with delicacy and precision. Th e stately dining room is rich in both European and Japanese detail with fi ne porcelain and slender metal chopsticks alongside ornate silver wine coolers. Th ere are magnifi cent doorways with ancient tiles, elaborate sconces with carvings of grapes, tapestries and heavy wooden furniture inlaid with beaten silver. But there is also a cool Japanese aesthetic, the walls hung with silk panels and traditional paintings and a handsome red lacquer chest. Conquistador meets samurai. At one end of the room is a theatrical open kitchen where Schilo himself takes centre stage with silent assistants like religious acolytes or actors in a Noh performance. It’s a striking experience, especially if you are seated at the long sharing table alongside the ‘stage’. But even if you’ve chosen to sit further away or outside in the courtyard, you will still enjoy what is undoubtedly some of the fi nest cooking in Europe. Finca Cortesin, Hotel, Golf & Spa, Carretera de Casares, E-29690 Casares, Malaga, Spain, +34 952 937800, www.fi ncacortesin.com Thirty-Eight Previous page: Th e Yeatman, in Porto, Portugal, is a bright airy hotel with views over the city. Top: Shis, on Portugal’s coast near Porto, looks out over the Atlantic. Above: Schilo, at Malaga’s Finca Cortesin resort, features a theatrical open kitchen. Left: Schilo’s Asian-inspired menu makes use of herbs from the resort’s gardens
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