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THE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2011 - PrivatAir

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<strong>SUMMER</strong> <strong>2011</strong><br />

<strong>THE</strong> <strong>MAGAZINE</strong>


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IMAGE�©�AYTEN�ALPUN<br />

Blue silk tunic dress<br />

by Lanvin; leggings by<br />

Rütme; heels by Sophie<br />

Gi� ins; headscarf by<br />

Yves Saint Laurent at<br />

matchesfashion.com;<br />

cream bracelets and<br />

necklace by Pebble<br />

London; long chain by<br />

Chanel; embroidered<br />

bag by Paul and Joe<br />

IN�THIS�ISSUE<br />

PRIVATFASHION<br />

Orientalism is all the rage this season.<br />

See the pick of the souk shot at Istanbul’s<br />

exquisite Hotel Les Ottomans<br />

��


Hiss and hers<br />

jewellery, page 68<br />

<strong>SUMMER</strong> <strong>2011</strong><br />

<strong>THE</strong> <strong>MAGAZINE</strong><br />

Cover: albino snake<br />

shot by John Ross<br />

Meet the inhabitants of the<br />

Antarctic on page 50<br />

Eight<br />

PRIVATARTS ��<br />

Rory Ross looks forward to the opening of<br />

the restored Bolshoi Th eatre in Moscow<br />

PRIVATBOOK ��<br />

Huon Mallalieu marvels at the skills that<br />

make the Highgrove Florilegium a triumph<br />

PRIVATCOLLECTOR� ���<br />

Huon Mallalieu looks at two works of art<br />

preserved for the public by individuals<br />

PRIVATSELECTION� ��<br />

Keith W Strandberg reviews the latest<br />

watches on show at BaselWorld<br />

PRIVATDRIVE ��<br />

Charles Armstrong-Wilson visits Brabus,<br />

famous for transforming your Mercedes<br />

PRIVATDINING ��<br />

Jennifer Sharp chooses her favourite<br />

summer restaurants in Spain and Portugal<br />

PRIVATPERSON ��<br />

Sophy Roberts talks to Charlie Mayhew,<br />

founder of conservation charity Tusk<br />

PRIVATESCAPE� ��<br />

Catherine Sabino focuses on Sagaponack,<br />

the Hamptons’ chicest village<br />

PRIVATTRAVEL ��<br />

John Rendall voyages south to the wilds of<br />

Antarctica, pristine but under threat<br />

PRIVATRESORT ��<br />

Celestria Noel reviews Maradiva, a locally<br />

owned all-villa property in Mauritius<br />

PRIVATJEWELS ��<br />

Vivienne Becker says that big is beautiful<br />

when it comes to glorious gemstones<br />

PRIVATAIR ��<br />

News and developments from the world’s<br />

most exclusive airline


������������������������������� www.alpina-watches.com<br />

AVIATIONCOLLECTION<br />

Introducing the Alpina Startimer Pilot timepieces.<br />

A collection of limited editions, developed<br />

in close collaboration with Cessna Aircraft and <strong>PrivatAir</strong>.


FROM�<strong>THE</strong>�EDITOR<br />

Individual attention<br />

A question we must all have asked ourselves at one time is:<br />

what can I do about it? I am only one person. However the<br />

actions of an individual can be very signifi cant, and there<br />

are some inspiring examples to be found in this issue of<br />

<strong>PrivatAir</strong> the Magazine. Take Charlie Mayhew. As a<br />

student he fell in love with African wildlife but was<br />

horrifi ed by the activities of poachers and their eff ect on<br />

rhino and elephant in particular. He had no special<br />

qualifi cations or connections but knew he personally would<br />

have to do something. Th e result was Tusk, well known<br />

internationally today and supported by, among others,<br />

Prince William of Wales, now Duke of Cambridge.<br />

As it happens, John Rendall, who writes here about<br />

Antarctica, is no stranger to the charity’s work. He has<br />

supported conservation in Africa since his hero, George<br />

Adamson, rehabilitated Rendall’s own pet lion, Christian.<br />

However in this issue he has moved south from Africa<br />

and is hoping to draw our attention to the less well<br />

understood fragility of Antarctic ecosystem. His aim will<br />

ring a bell with <strong>PrivatAir</strong> pilot Daniel Lüscher, who,<br />

partly because he could actually look down and see snow<br />

and ice receding as he went about his work, knew he<br />

JOHN�RENDALL<br />

Rendall is the co-author of Christian<br />

the Lion, the international bestseller<br />

about a cub raised in Chelsea and<br />

later released in Kenya. Rendall is a<br />

trustee of the George Adamson<br />

Wildlife Preservation Trust which<br />

funds and administers the Mkomazi<br />

National Park in Tanzania and Kora<br />

National Park in Kenya. He lives in<br />

London and his native Sydney.<br />

CONTRIBUTORS<br />

JOHN�ROSS<br />

Born in Malta and now based in<br />

London, John has been shooting<br />

famous brands in glamorous<br />

locations for over two decades.<br />

He recently worked for Yamaha<br />

in Milan, went to South Africa to<br />

shoot a TDK campaign and shot the<br />

cover for the latest Pet Shop Boys<br />

album, Disco 4. He is the recipient<br />

of numerous media-industry awards.<br />

PRIVATCONTRIBUTORS<br />

needed to act. He went on to set up the organisation<br />

myblueplanet in his home country, Switzerland. Its<br />

message is that each of us must act now in our own daily<br />

lives to help save the world. Again, like Charlie Mayhew,<br />

he had no training and no great resources apart from his<br />

own energy and passionate conviction, but is being<br />

supported in his work by <strong>PrivatAir</strong>, who allow him the<br />

time off to work on the project.<br />

Other outstanding examples of individuals making a<br />

diff erence can be found in the art world. Nicholas and<br />

Athena Karabots in America and Jonathan Ruff er in<br />

Britain are examples of successful individuals deploying<br />

private resources in a positive manner for the sake of art<br />

and posterity. Finally we come to the Prince of Wales<br />

himself. Th e beautiful Highgrove Florilegium, a book<br />

which has now been completed after many years in the<br />

making, supports individual botanical artists, bookbinders<br />

and craftsmen but also champions the wild and garden<br />

fl owers the Prince loves, while supporting his Charities<br />

Foundation. Most copies will go to museums but<br />

individuals can buy the few that are left. Or why not just<br />

plant some wildfl owers yourself? CELESTRIA�NOEL<br />

Ten<br />

HUON�MALLALIEU�<br />

Having begun his career at<br />

Christie’s he went on to author The<br />

Dictionary of British Watercolour<br />

Artists, Understanding Watercolours,<br />

The Illustrated History of Antiques,<br />

and more recently, 1066 and Rather<br />

More: a Walk through History. A<br />

well-known art market journalist, he<br />

writes for The Times and has a<br />

weekly column in Country Life.<br />

<strong>SUMMER</strong>�����<br />

EDITOR<br />

Celestria Noel<br />

DESIGN�DIRECTOR�<br />

Julia Murray<br />

DESIGNER�<br />

Wil Griffi ths<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY�DIRECTOR�<br />

Alex Ortiz<br />

PICTURE�EDITOR�<br />

Patrick Llewellyn<br />

SUB-EDITOR<br />

Steve Handley<br />

PRODUCTION�MANAGER<br />

Antonia Ferraro<br />

REPROGRAPHICS<br />

KFR Reprographics<br />

PRINTING<br />

Taylor Bloxham<br />

LOGISTICS<br />

www.goferslogistics.com<br />

GROUP�PUBLISHING�<br />

DIRECTOR<br />

Angus Urquhart<br />

CREATIVE�DIRECTOR�<br />

Michael Keating<br />

PUBLISHING�DIRECTOR�<br />

Simon Leslie<br />

CHIEF�OPERATING�OFFICER�<br />

Hugh Godsal<br />

CHIEF�EXECUTIVE<br />

Jeff rey O’Rourke<br />

PUBLISHED�BY<br />

Ink, www.ink-global.com<br />

+44 (0)20 7613 8777<br />

FOR<br />

<strong>PrivatAir</strong> SA<br />

Chemin des Papillons 18<br />

PO Box 572, 1215 Geneva 15<br />

Telephone +41 (0)22 929 6700<br />

Fax +41 (0)22 929 6701<br />

info@privatair.com<br />

www.privatair.com<br />

© Ink. All material is strictly copyright and all<br />

rights are reserved. Reproduction in whole or part<br />

is prohibited without prior permission from the<br />

publisher. Opinions expressed in <strong>PrivatAir</strong> the<br />

Magazine are not necessarily those of <strong>PrivatAir</strong><br />

ILLUSTRATIONS�©�STUART�WHITTON/WWW�HANDSOMEFRANK�COM


ASTRALIS<br />

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PRIVATARTS<br />

Big product ion<br />

Th e renovation of the Bolshoi Th eatre in Moscow has<br />

been a long tale of pain and woe but this autumn the<br />

theatre will reopen at last, says Rory Ross<br />

Twelve


IMAGES�©�GETTY<br />

ROWS��RESIGNATIONS��ACRIMONY��MUD-SLINGING��BAD�<br />

blood, deadlocks, accusations of embezzlement and fraud… it could<br />

only happen in opera. In Moscow, however, it has been happening in the<br />

opera house. Th e delays, alarming fi nancial haemorrhages, walk-outs and<br />

rows that have bedevilled the restoration of the Bolshoi theatre in central<br />

Moscow have appalled, amused and generally held Muscovites in thrall<br />

for much of the last six years. Add in a star cast of towering artistic egos,<br />

numerous spins of the Russian manic-depressive cycle, a scandal over an<br />

erotic picture, allegedly showing someone resembling the director of the<br />

Bolshoi ballet troupe, and lashings of vodka, and you have the makings of<br />

an opera plot that Tchaikovsky would have hardly dared dream of. Th ree<br />

years behind schedule and some 16 times over budget at $760m – much of<br />

it state money – the Bolshoi theatre fi nally reopens this October.<br />

A grandiose, porticoed 19th-century building that resembles an<br />

accident between a Rolls-Royce and a large wedding cake, the Bolshoi is<br />

located in central Moscow and was where Tchaikovsky’s ballet Swan Lake<br />

was premiered in 1877. It has been crying out for restoration for decades.<br />

Originally built in 1825, the acoustics of the theatre had been impaired by<br />

Thirteen<br />

a sequence of botched cowboy renovations, which included concreting up<br />

the orchestra’s barrel-shaped resonator sound box, tantamount to a<br />

desecration. Th e present restoration is intended as an acoustic<br />

rehabilitation. As Anatoly Iksanov, the Bolshoi’s director general, said in<br />

2004 when announcing the restoration: ‘Th e theatre has suff ered a lot since<br />

they started replacing wooden structures with concrete ones.’<br />

Th ere was talk of renovating the state-backed theatre as long ago as<br />

the 1980s, but lack of money failed to translate words into deeds.<br />

Furthermore, reaching a consensus on what actually should be done to<br />

the theatre meant that paralysis set in, while the building itself began to<br />

sink into its perennially muddy foundations. Th en in 2005, the Russian<br />

government knocked heads together, and decreed that it would be<br />

restored. Th e 2,200-seater Bolshoi Main Stage closed in July 2005.<br />

Opera and ballet performances were relocated to the smaller New Stage<br />

next door, which seats 900.<br />

Th e entire restoration project, which embraces the Bolshoi’s<br />

collection of decorative art items, antique furniture, costumes and<br />

production sketches by outstanding Russian theatre designers, which had


IMAGE�©�GETTY<br />

Previous page: the Bolshoi<br />

Th eatre outside and in.<br />

Above: gilders are among the<br />

many artisans who have worked<br />

on the lengthy restoration<br />

PRIVATARTS<br />

been amassed over the Bolshoi’s 230-year history, was<br />

originally meant to take three years. However, by the time<br />

the fully restored theatre reopens on 28 October this year,<br />

it will have taken more than six years to complete.<br />

Outside, the succession of shoddy paint jobs that<br />

marred the building’s faded pink facade have been eff aced;<br />

the architectural details have been resculpted; the<br />

imposing white columns at the front of the building,<br />

which leaned over by a tipsy 20cm, have been returned to<br />

the upright; and damage caused by a German bombing<br />

raid in 1941 has fi nally been repaired. Inside, the original<br />

19th-century design and look of the violin-shaped theatre<br />

has been rediscovered. Th e orchestra has been expanded;<br />

now, the operatic repertoire can encompass ‘most of<br />

Wagner and some of Richard Strauss,’ says Vyacheslav<br />

Yefi mov, associate director general. For the fi rst time, the<br />

Bolshoi will have two separate fl oor surfaces for ballet and<br />

opera – ballet requires sound-absorbency and a bit of give<br />

underfoot; opera requires the opposite. Meanwhile,<br />

backstage, out have gone the mouldy walls and peeling<br />

plaster that greeted dancers as they warmed up, in have<br />

come spacious modern amenities and improved<br />

technology that allows safe, swift, complex set changes.<br />

Th e Bolshoi’s payroll has been trimmed from 2,000 to<br />

a number more aligned with rival opera houses (La Scala<br />

in Milan employs 800). Meanwhile, the fundamental<br />

Fifteen<br />

problems caused by the unstable structural foundations<br />

compounded by woes brought about when Moscow’s<br />

metro system was built in the 1930s, have been addressed.<br />

Conservatives are up in arms that the Bolshoi’s<br />

antique charms, poor acoustics and pulley-lowered sets are<br />

being swept away in tide of modernisation that amounts to<br />

‘cultural barbarism’, never mind that much of the backstage<br />

apparatus was considered a health risk. Others are looking<br />

forward to a spacious, comfortable high-tech theatre<br />

where the latest lighting, electronic and hydraulic devices<br />

are concealed beneath a facade of red velvet, gold inlay,<br />

hand-embroidered silk tapestries and restored tsarist<br />

insignia, that will restore Moscow’s reputation as a centre<br />

for the performing arts.<br />

One of the fi rst productions will be Tchaikovsky’s Th e<br />

Sleeping Beauty, in a revival by Yuri Grigorovich (fi rst<br />

night 18 November) with new sets by Ezio Frigerio, the<br />

Italian theatre designer who designed Rudolf Nureyev’s<br />

tomb. Credit Suisse is the Bolshoi Th eatre’s general<br />

sponsor, while Audemars Piguet, the Swiss watch<br />

manufacturer, is offi cial sponsor: it has been a long haul for<br />

them too. Moscow has seen a number of recent artistic<br />

landmarks: the Winzavod centre for contemporary arts,<br />

the Red October chocolate factory and CCC Moscow<br />

have helped make it a thriving cultural entrepot. Now it is<br />

the turn of the Bolshoi to play its part at last.


PRIVATBOOK<br />

If developing a garden requires patience,<br />

the making of a book about its plants can be<br />

an even longer task but, as Huon Mallalieu<br />

discovers, Th e Highgrove Florilegium<br />

is worth the wait<br />

Sixteen


WHEN�NOT�UNDER�PRESSURE�TO�PRODUCE�INSTANT�BOOKS��<br />

writers often suff er the opposite frustration – at the length of time publishers<br />

can take in bringing their masterworks to fruition. However, eight years<br />

from conception to delivery is certainly unusual. In the case of Addison<br />

Publications’ Th e Highgrove Florilegium it is fully justifi ed.<br />

Th e two-volume set of illustrations of plants from the Prince of Wales’<br />

Gloucestershire garden is a work of superlative quality. Th ere are 124 prints by<br />

72 leading botanical artists from around the world, and over 100 British<br />

craftsmen have contributed to the limited edition, of which only 175 copies<br />

Seventeen


ALL�IMAGES�©�AG�CARRICK<br />

Previous page:<br />

Rhododendron basilicum<br />

by Lizzie Sanders.<br />

Right: Jasminum nudifl orum<br />

by Mieko Ishikawa<br />

‘It is rare to find books which<br />

have been given such love and<br />

devotion from st art to finish by<br />

traditional craftsmen’<br />

are for sale at £12,950 per set. (About 30 are<br />

still available). Th e Prince, who wrote the<br />

preface and holds set 1 of 175, has signed<br />

each numbered set. All royalties from Th e<br />

Highgrove Florilegium are donated to the<br />

Prince’s Charities Foundation. Th e<br />

painstaking production involved gardeners,<br />

botanists, artists, typographers, leather dyers,<br />

marblers, printers, binders and felters, and it<br />

took over six months of their combined<br />

eff orts to print, bind and fi nish each book.<br />

Instead of the standard four-colour process<br />

used in nearly all printing, the Florilegium<br />

makes use of eight basic inks plus special<br />

colours; it is hugely costly. Also heavy. Th e<br />

two volumes together weigh about 25kg and<br />

are more than two feet tall and one and a<br />

half feet wide.<br />

Henrietta Pearson of Addison<br />

Publications, who pride themselves on<br />

producing ‘slow books’ in the spirit of the slow<br />

food movement, comments: ‘In this<br />

throwaway, digital age, it is increasingly rare to<br />

fi nd books which have been given such love<br />

and devotion from start to fi nish by traditional<br />

craftsmen. We are proud to be able to use the<br />

best of Britain’s traditional book craftsmen to<br />

produce our publications at a time when the<br />

talk is more of e-books than embossing.’<br />

Th e Highgrove Florilegium is the latest of<br />

several titles that boast the same painstaking<br />

process to create limited editions of<br />

important, rare and sometimes ancient<br />

manuscripts. Addison’s books, which include<br />

Th e Book of Kells and Th e Lindisfarne Gospels<br />

are now collectors’ items in their own right,<br />

PRIVATBOOK<br />

Nineteen


Right: Brassica<br />

oleracea by Flappy<br />

Lane Fox.<br />

Below: the<br />

Prince of Wales at<br />

Highgrove, among<br />

the fl owers<br />

Th e Prince of Wales has<br />

signed each numbered set.<br />

All royalties from the book<br />

are donated to the Prince’s<br />

Charities Foundation<br />

found in libraries and museums all over the world.<br />

A copy of this book is at the Chicago Botanic Gardens<br />

in the Lenhardt Library’s Rare Book Reading Room in<br />

the Regenstein Center and can be viewed by<br />

appointment. Only four other copies are available in<br />

libraries in the United States. Th e volumes will also be<br />

on public display in a rare book exhibition in the<br />

Lenhardt Library from 18 November to 12 February,<br />

2012. Th e original watercolours, which belong to the<br />

Prince of Wales, have been exhibited in Europe and the<br />

USA but the fi nal opportunity to see them will be<br />

from 17 September to 31 December this year at the<br />

Guernsey Museum in the Channel Islands.<br />

PRIVATBOOK<br />

Twenty


www.jean-mairetgillman.com<br />

GENEVA: T +41 22 703 4020 � LONDON: T +44 207 602 4422 � Model featured: HORA MUNDI III


PRIVATCOLLECTOR<br />

Th e art of philanthropy<br />

Protecting and safeguarding works of art is one way the<br />

actions of a wealthy individual can make an enormous<br />

diff erence. Huon Mallalieu looks at two recent examples<br />

Twenty-Two


IMAGE�©�PHILADELPHIA�MUSEUM�OF�ART<br />

MANY�OF�<strong>THE</strong>�WORLD’S�GREATEST�MUSEUMS�AND�PUBLIC�<br />

art galleries owe their existence to the generosity of individual<br />

benefactors over the last two centuries. It is heartening to fi nd that<br />

nowadays, when there is such a concentration of offi cial resources on<br />

the contemporary, there are still individuals and organisations willing<br />

to safeguard the masterworks of the past. Two recent instances are<br />

particularly encouraging.<br />

In 2009 the Philadelphia Museum of Art proudly unveiled its latest<br />

acquisition, a full set of armour for a horse and its rider, made for Duke<br />

Ulrich of Württemberg at the beginning of the 16th century by two of<br />

the greatest of all the great armourers working in Nuremberg, centre of<br />

the industry. Making the announcement, Timothy Rub, the museum’s<br />

CEO, said: ‘Th e museum has always wanted to have an extraordinary<br />

horse armour to augment our holdings of European arms and armour,<br />

but fi nding one has been an especially elusive quest, given the<br />

exceptional rarity of this type of object.’<br />

Rare indeed. Th e monumental horse armour, created in 1507 by<br />

Wilhelm von Worms the Elder, the most famous armourer of his day, and<br />

entirely made of steel plates enriched with delicately etched and gilded<br />

fi gures of a dragon and noblewomen, is the only example to have become<br />

available in 45 years, and one of only a handful of such an early date still<br />

in existence. Th e accompanying man armour, created around 1505 by<br />

Matthes Deutsch in Landshut, is one of under a dozen complete, or near<br />

complete, fi eld armours of that period to have survived. It is Deutsch’s<br />

latest known work and his most richly decorated.<br />

Th e Philadelphia Museum is one of the largest in the United States,<br />

and accordingly well endowed, but the $7.2m needed to secure the<br />

armours came not from funds but from individuals Athena and Nicholas<br />

Karabots and the Karabots Foundation, who made this acquisition<br />

possible. Nicholas G Karabots is the son of Greek immigrants who<br />

moved to the United States from Sparta shortly after World War I and<br />

ran a successful restaurant business. When this was wiped out, his father<br />

became a waiter and his wife a seamstress, while their son contributed by<br />

working as a shoe-shine boy. Karabots Jnr later got a job with a printing<br />

fi rm and, following the American dream, worked his way up to become<br />

its owner. He then bought one of the fi rm’s best clients, the Kappa<br />

Publishing Group, which specialises in children’s activity books, puzzle<br />

magazines and games. In graceful acknowledgement of his ancestral roots,<br />

he has called his umbrella company Spartan Organization, Inc.<br />

Th e foundation that he set up with his wife also grew out of his early<br />

experiences, since the prime purpose is to better the chances for ‘youth in<br />

underserved communities and families within those communities’.<br />

Twenty-Three<br />

Naturally, reading and education are key to this. Two of the biggest<br />

donations were $15m for a new paediatric care unit at the Children’s<br />

Hospital of Philadelphia, and $4.4m to renovate and expand the William<br />

Jeanes Memorial Library in Whitemarsh Township, PA, where they have<br />

lived for over 50 years. Th eir hope is that it will become ‘an even broader<br />

community centre and are further hopeful that its updating and<br />

expansion will encourage more children and adults to come to learn’.<br />

Surprising as it might seem at fi rst glance, the $15m donated to<br />

purchase the armours does fi t the pattern. As Nicholas Karabots says:<br />

‘Th e Foundation was moved by the interest shown in the Arms and<br />

Armour Collection by children and young adults, and it is the<br />

Foundation’s hope that the addition of the horse and man armour to the<br />

existing collection will result in the development of programmes at the<br />

museum that will further interest and encourage these young people to<br />

pursue higher levels of self-improvement via advanced education.’<br />

Th e deal was actually brokered by an Englishman, Peter Finer, who is<br />

perhaps the world’s foremost dealer in antique arms and armour. Based in<br />

a Warwickshire manor house and a St James’s shop, Finer is a well-known<br />

‘Th e museum has always wanted to have an extraordinary suit of horse<br />

armour but finding one has been an especially elusive quest ’<br />

exhibitor at the most prestigious international antiques fairs, and almost<br />

all serious collectors are on his client list. Th e armours were once part of<br />

the collection of the Counts Breuner-Enckevoirt and subsequently of the<br />

Dukes of Ratibor at Schloss Grafenegg in Austria, where they were<br />

exhibited together as a complete equestrian fi gure. In 1933 they were sold<br />

to the newspaper magnate William Randolph Hearst who, confronted<br />

with fi nancial diffi culties, subsequently parted with them; thereafter the<br />

ensemble remained in private hands until Finer purchased them in 2008.<br />

He had been on their track for years, and was determined that they<br />

should go to the best of homes. To this end, knowing the museum’s<br />

ambition, he brought it together with the foundation.<br />

A second tale of cultural philanthropy comes from England<br />

and this spring. In the words of Th e Wealth Report: ‘At a time when<br />

seemingly everyone in fi nance is considered evil, and the wealthy<br />

are painted as universally avaricious and self-interested, the story<br />

of Jonathan Ruff er bears reading.’<br />

Jonathan Ruff er is an investment manager who made a fortune by<br />

predicting the credit crunch. He is also a most civilised man who<br />

collects paintings and 78rpm records, an elegant writer and now a<br />

considerable benefactor to his native North-East of England, having<br />

prevented the Church of England from selling off some of the greatest<br />

paintings in the region to plug a hole in its fi nances. Th ey would<br />

otherwise have gone abroad after 250 years in a place for which they<br />

had historic as well as artistic importance. As a state church, the Church


Previous page: horse<br />

armour of Duke Ulrich<br />

of Württemberg<br />

(German, 1507).<br />

Right: Jacob and<br />

(below) three of his<br />

12 sons by Francisco de<br />

Zurbarán (1598–1664)<br />

‘I was the only person in a position<br />

to do anything about it. I happened<br />

to have £15 million. I wanted to do<br />

something for the North-East ’<br />

of England is custodian not only to much of the fi nest architecture in the<br />

country, but also to a treasury of works of art. Over the course of the 20th<br />

century, the Church Commissioners, who run its secular aff airs, divested<br />

themselves of much of the landed property including redundant or<br />

seemingly over-sized vicarages, putting the proceeds into sometimes<br />

unfortunate investments. Individual parishes have also disposed of many<br />

treasures in order to pay their way and keep roofs on churches. In some<br />

cases though, they have tried to do so out of puritanical prejudice against<br />

the Church possessing worldly wealth. Th is is similar to asset-stripping,<br />

and although there is a system backed by Parliamentary authority which<br />

should prevent unjustifi ed sales, a great deal that ought have been handed<br />

on to future generations has been sold off .<br />

Currently the Commissioners have their mercenary eyes on the<br />

Bishops’ Houses, which they no longer like to term ‘Palaces’, although<br />

some are indeed palaces or castles, others merely sizeable residences.<br />

Modern bishops live less grandly than their predecessors, and their homes,<br />

however splendid, also serve as working headquarters for their dioceses.<br />

One of the grandest is Auckland Castle, for 800 years seat of the<br />

Bishops of Durham, a building of immense historical and architectural<br />

importance. In 1756 Bishop Trevor paid £124 for 12 paintings by the<br />

Spanish master Francisco de Zurbarán (1598–1664), each measuring<br />

PRIVATCOLLECTOR<br />

Twenty-Four<br />

completed by a Benjamin by the 18th-century Arthur Pond. Th ey were<br />

intended to demonstrate the Bishop’s support for the 1753 Jewish<br />

Naturalisation Bill, which allowed Jews to become British citizens<br />

without converting to Christianity. It was passed but, despite the backing<br />

of the Anglican Church, repealed six months later after demonstrations<br />

and protests by anti-Semitic groups.<br />

Last year’s announcement that the Commissioners intended to sell<br />

the Zurbaráns provoked outrage in the North-East and throughout the<br />

British cultural world. Even though a sale might well have been illegal, the<br />

Commissioners insisted on proceeding, until Ruff er, a practising Christian<br />

who had never actually seen the paintings, stepped in, paid £15.5m for them<br />

– and immediately gave them back to the Church. ‘I was the only person in a<br />

position to do anything about it. I happened to have £15 million. I wanted<br />

to do something for the North-East, where I come from. My fi rst<br />

thought had been a commercial one – that I could buy them for myself<br />

– but then I realised that there was something much more important to<br />

do.’ Self-deprecatingly he adds: ‘Th e distraction of my job is being constantly<br />

fi ngered for money. It’s terrifi c to be able to say there isn’t any.’<br />

With the help of a £1m donation from the Rothschild Foundation<br />

and advice from the National Trust, the Church intends to turn the<br />

Castle at Bishop Auckland into a regional cultural and heritage centre.<br />

However, while Ruff er’s is undoubtedly a superbly philanthropic action,<br />

it leaves several important matters unresolved, including the legality of<br />

such sales by the Commissioners. However, these are quite literally<br />

parochial matters, and more generally, both stories show how much<br />

cultural benefi t can result from focused individuals such as Nicholas and<br />

Athena Karabots or Jonathan Ruff er deploying private resources in a<br />

positive manner for the public good.<br />

some 2.44m high and portraying one of the sons of Jacob – the set was IMAGES�©�CHRISTIAN�RUFFER


PRIVATSELECTION<br />

TIME<br />

<strong>THE</strong>�REIGN�OF�<strong>THE</strong>�SOBER�<br />

and�classical is coming to an end at<br />

last. Th e energy that evaporated with<br />

the fi nancial crisis can be felt once<br />

more. Innovation was everywhere at<br />

the BaselWorld watch fair this<br />

spring. Watch brands are no longer<br />

playing it safe. As sales return there<br />

is evidence that they are pushing the<br />

envelope once more. Here are some<br />

of the most outstanding examples…<br />

TIME<br />

AGAIN<br />

Keith W Strandberg fi nds a new<br />

energy among watchmakers at<br />

this year’s BaselWorld fair<br />

CHRISTOPHE�CLARET<br />

Christophe Claret has made amazingly complicated watches for some<br />

of the best names in the business and just recently started doing his<br />

own limited-edition timepieces, which showcase his virtuosity.<br />

Th is year, Claret introduced the 21 Blackjack (right), a watch that<br />

is almost a casino on your wrist. While giving you the time, it also<br />

allows you to play blackjack (with a striking mechanism for each card<br />

dealt), has dice in an aperture on the side of the case and a roulette<br />

wheel rotor on the back of the watch. With 501 parts, this watch is<br />

incredibly complex yet surprisingly easy to use. Th e 21 Blackjack is<br />

limited to three versions of 21 pieces each.


PATEK�PHILIPPE<br />

Th e watchmakers at Patek<br />

Philippe have recently introduced<br />

what is probably their most<br />

complicated ever woman’s<br />

wristwatch, the minute repeater.<br />

Th e minute repeater is one of the<br />

rarest and most respected watch<br />

complications and its peculiarity is<br />

that it strikes the time displayed on<br />

the dial using miniature gongs.‘We<br />

are very excited to introduce two<br />

new, very complex ladies’ pieces<br />

(7059R and 7000R) as it opens up<br />

a new sector of the ladies’ market,’<br />

says Larry Pettinelli, president of<br />

Patek Philippe North America.<br />

‘After all, some of Patek Philippe’s<br />

most historically signifi cant<br />

moments are connected with<br />

technical innovations found in<br />

ladies’ timepieces. For example,<br />

Queen Victoria’s watch, showcasing<br />

the new keyless winding<br />

mechanism, brought exceptional<br />

fame to the brand at a crucial time.’<br />

BADOLLET<br />

Staying on the striking watch<br />

theme, Badollet, well known<br />

for incredible movements and<br />

eye-catching designs, introduced<br />

the Observatoire 1872 Minute<br />

Repeater (right) at BaselWorld.<br />

Th e watch is named Observatoire<br />

1872 to commemorate the win<br />

by Badollet of the fi rst edition of<br />

the Concours de l’Observatoire,<br />

held in Geneva in 1872. Focused<br />

on precision, Badollet won this<br />

competition, taking the fi rst three<br />

places. Badollet calls its watches<br />

Instruments of Time, and the new<br />

Observatoire 1872 features a classic<br />

case with an open-worked opaline<br />

dial set with 72 diamonds and 12<br />

sapphires. Th e open dial and the<br />

transparent case-back allow you to<br />

see the incredible fi nishing on all<br />

the parts, and when you activate<br />

the slide to set the minute repeater<br />

in motion, you can watch the<br />

hammers and gongs strike the time.<br />

HARRY�WINSTON<br />

Every year, Harry Winston works with an independent<br />

watchmaker to make a limited-edition timepiece, designed to push<br />

boundaries and do things never done before. Th is year’s Opus, Opus<br />

11, was spectacular. Harry Winston teamed with Denis Giguet on this<br />

limited edition of 111 pieces – at the end of each hour, the central display<br />

of the timepiece breaks apart like a jigsaw puzzle and then reconfi gures<br />

as the next hour digit. It’s incredible to watch it in motion on YouTube<br />

– the movement has 566 components and they all seem to be moving<br />

at the same time (www.youtube.com/watch?v=YWvhp4YL3Bc). At the<br />

other end of the spectrum, Harry Winston also introduced a supremely<br />

elegant watch, the Midnight (right), which is a dressy, classical watch. No<br />

craziness, just pure elegance.<br />

PRIVATSELECTION<br />

Twenty-Nine y-Nine<br />

LOUIS�MOINET<br />

For centuries, watchmakers have explored new materials to<br />

enhance precision and for new aesthetics. Th is year, Louis Moinet has<br />

introduced its Geograph Chronograph (left), with genuine petrifi ed palm<br />

wood from the tropical forests of South-East Asia, estimated to be 70<br />

million years old. Th is watch is the standard bearer for Louis Moinet’s<br />

Rainforest project. Th e Geograph Rainforest is a 120-piece limited edition,<br />

and each watch sold will provide a substantial contribution to the Pulau<br />

Banding Foundation, which aims to preserve the Malaysian tropical forest<br />

of Belum-Temengor, one of the oldest in the world. On this watch, the<br />

time is indicated by dewdrop-shaped hands, on a dial adorned with Côtes<br />

du Jura striping. Th e dual-time display is shown by a blue serpentine hand.<br />

Th e chronograph pushers are in the distinctive Champagne-cork style and<br />

are fi nished with an atlas motif.


FRANC�VILA<br />

Striking watches – watches that chime the time on<br />

demand or automatically – are extremely diffi cult to<br />

make and are becoming increasingly popular. Th is year,<br />

Franc Vila, known for masculine watches featuring<br />

complicated movements, has introduced a skeletonised<br />

striking watch called the FVa35 SuperSonico 5 Minute<br />

Repeater (right) in the SuperLigero (superlight)<br />

Concept Collection. Th is collection is distinguished by<br />

very light but robust watches, and the SuperSonico is<br />

no exception. Th e case is made from titanium and steel,<br />

with the inner section in ‘Lightnium’ so as to be light<br />

and to ensure great sound for the repeater.<br />

PRIVATSELECTION<br />

HERMÈS<br />

Movement maestro Jean-Marc<br />

Wiederrecht, the genius behind the ‘poetic<br />

complications’ from Van Cleef & Arpels,<br />

has unveiled the Arceau Time Suspended<br />

(left), in association with Hermès. Th is watch<br />

allows the wearer to ‘suspend’ time at the<br />

push of a button, so you can forget about<br />

time while, say, having lunch with a loved<br />

one, then restore it as easily. ‘We are trying to<br />

give people time to dream,’ says Wiederrecht.<br />

‘We wanted this new watch to touch people<br />

emotionally but be simple to use. Very few<br />

brands would do a watch like this, because it’s<br />

a timepiece that doesn’t measure time, which<br />

is a paradox for a watchmaker. At Hermès,<br />

we prefer to focus on the quality of time and<br />

stop being stressed by the quantity.’<br />

HAUTLENCE<br />

Hautlence has introduced a spectacular<br />

piece, the HL2. Equipped with a brand-new<br />

movement visible through a sapphire crystal<br />

case, the HL2 displays the hour on a chain,<br />

while the minutes are in a retrograde display.<br />

Th e entire regulating organ is visible, and it<br />

rotates 60 degrees every hour. Amazing.<br />

ULYSSE�NARDIN<br />

With the new Alexander the Great<br />

Minute Repeater Westminster Carillon<br />

Tourbillon Jaquemarts, Ulysse Nardin is<br />

poised to conquer the watch industry. Th ere<br />

are fi ve warrior fi gures on the man-made<br />

polycrystalline diamond dial, four of which<br />

move in sync with the minute repeater as<br />

it chimes out the hours, quarter hours and<br />

minutes. Th is 44mm tourbillon minute<br />

repeater is limited to 100 pieces, 50 in white<br />

and 50 in rose gold.<br />

Thirty<br />

TAG�HEUER<br />

TAG Heuer, a brand that has created<br />

quite a tradition with concept watches, has<br />

introduced the TAG Heuer Mikrotimer<br />

Flying 1000 Concept Chronograph (above),<br />

the world’s fi rst-ever mechanical chronograph<br />

to measure and display 1/1,000th of a second.<br />

It beats 3,600,000 times per hour – the fastest<br />

mechanical regulating organ ever (most watch<br />

movements are 21,600, 28,800 or 36,000<br />

beats per hour). TAG Heuer accomplishes<br />

this with two escapements, one for regular<br />

time (beating at a ‘normal’ 28,800 beats per<br />

hour), and one for the chronograph, beating<br />

at that 3,600,000 beats per hour. Th e watch’s<br />

green central second hand turns around the<br />

dial 10 times per second, almost looking as if<br />

it’s going to fl y off the dial. It’s an incredible<br />

feat of watchmaking and worth a long look.<br />

Th e hope is that this concept makes its way<br />

into TAG’s regular line soon.


PRIVATDRIVE<br />

POWER�<br />

HAUS<br />

Th e word for a Mercedes without limits is Brabus.<br />

Charles Armstrong-Wilson enters the garage of dreams


abus is a Mercedes tuner in<br />

much the same way as Fortnum<br />

and Mason is a grocer and Krug<br />

makes fi zzy wines. While the<br />

company may tweak engines, its<br />

services go far beyond simply<br />

making cars go faster.<br />

Th e company was born out of one man’s all-consuming<br />

passion for driving fast cars. Bodo Buschmann’s father had a<br />

Mercedes-Benz dealership, but while at university, the<br />

young Buschmann developed a taste for sporty Porsches.<br />

His father soon realised this did not refl ect well on his own<br />

business and insisted his son drive a Mercedes. However,<br />

back in the early 1970s, the company’s cars were closely<br />

associated with taxis – hardly the stuff of a young car<br />

enthusiast’s dreams. Faced with this bleak prospect, Bodo<br />

did the only thing he could possibly do and made his<br />

Mercedes more interesting. He began tuning his car and, as<br />

others showed interest in what he was doing, he produced<br />

tuning parts for them too. By the time he left university, the<br />

tuning had turned into a business.<br />

In essence, this is what the company still does, but in a<br />

way the young Bodo might struggle to recognise. Nearly<br />

four decades on from his fi rst youthful excursions into<br />

tuning, Buschmann’s enthusiasm is undimmed but his<br />

ambition has grown with the budgets of his customers.<br />

Today the company has a<br />

genius for making the<br />

fast faster and the<br />

exclusive unique. Th ere is<br />

very little the company<br />

will not attempt on your behalf. Whether you would like the<br />

same leather in your S-Class as in your Ferrari or on your<br />

wife’s favourite handbag, Brabus will deal with it. At its base<br />

in Bottrop near Düsseldorf, Germany, the company has a<br />

fully equipped trim shop staff ed by highly skilled and<br />

experienced craftsmen and women who can tackle the<br />

toughest of challenges. If you would like a particular style of<br />

stitching, they will create it for you. If you want your initials<br />

or family crest on the headrests, it will be done.<br />

Every time a new Mercedes model is released, Brabus<br />

creates a set of patterns from the interior that can be used to<br />

craft entire new trim packages to suit the most whimsical of<br />

tastes. But its off erings are not bound by an options list and,<br />

if you want it, Brabus will endeavour to deliver it. As its<br />

recent show car for the Geneva Motor Show illustrated,<br />

there is very little its experts will not attempt. Th e vehicle<br />

had mountings in the back for the Apple iPad and even<br />

included the company’s own software to allow the iPad to<br />

control the environment inside the car. It was proudly<br />

advertised as ‘the fastest offi ce on the road’.<br />

Thirty-Three<br />

One of the company’s specialities is a reworked<br />

Mercedes Viano people carrier, which it has transformed<br />

into the most luxurious and well-equipped courtesy bus<br />

possible. Regularly fi tted items include a pair of S-Class<br />

seats, drinks cabinet, coff ee machine, 40-inch TV, Xbox<br />

games console and Apple Mac Mini computer. But the<br />

heart of the Brabus treatment is still tuning and this can<br />

be as hot as the vehicle will stand while retaining the<br />

original design’s standards of reliability and practicality.<br />

Celebrated tweaks include the Brabus Bullit, which is<br />

based on the Mercedes C-Class saloon, and the Rocket,<br />

based on the CLS. Th e latter is ready an exciting model,<br />

however the Brabus engineers have junked the engine and<br />

replaced it with their own version of the Mercedes V12.<br />

One engineer will spend 10 days building the engine up<br />

from scratch. Its capacity is stretched to 6.3 litres and then<br />

equipped with twin turbochargers made exclusively for<br />

Brabus. Even the engine mounts have to be redesigned<br />

and made from scratch to accommodate the turbo<br />

installation. How much power it delivers depends on the<br />

spec requested by the customer, but they can choose from<br />

640bhp, 750bhp or 780bhp.<br />

Cars like these are modifi ed way beyond their original<br />

type approval. As well as the engine, Brabus totally<br />

reengineers the suspension and brakes to give handling and<br />

stopping power to match the straight-line performance.<br />

After all this, Brabus<br />

One engineer will spend 10 days<br />

building the engine up from scratch<br />

needs to rehomologate<br />

their vehicles, that is<br />

defi ne them offi cially as<br />

new cars.<br />

So what does a Brabus feel like from behind the wheel?<br />

Whatever a supercar is, on fi rst acquaintance the Brabus<br />

EV12 is surely not one. Its styling is far too discreet. It is no<br />

more exciting-looking than an E-Class Mercedes, a bit<br />

lower on the suspension, with tastier wheels and a few<br />

subtle body bits on the nose and tail. Hardly a look that<br />

makes jaws drop. Inside too, the car is easily accessible and<br />

comfortable and – get this – you can see out.<br />

Start up and the engine is quiet; OK there may be a bit<br />

of an edge to the note, but nothing intrusive. It pulls away<br />

progressively without faltering, and trickles into slow traffi c<br />

completely at ease with itself. According to the Brabus man<br />

with us in the passenger seat, this is the EV12 development<br />

car which in its latest incarnation churns out 800bhp from<br />

its twin-turbo V12. Numbers are one thing, but if the<br />

company really delivers on its claims, stamping on the<br />

right-hand pedal should produce a mind-blowing blur of<br />

acceleration. Th e prospect seems unlikely but, clear road,<br />

wheels straight, we give it a go. Whoa! One hundred<br />

kilometres an hour fl ashes past in an instant and suddenly


When the devil in<br />

the driver breaks free,<br />

a Brabus explodes<br />

in an orgy of speed<br />

and sensation<br />

the speedo is sweeping past 200. Yet the EV12<br />

seems to barely be labouring as the tiny dot in<br />

the distance ahead is rapidly turning into the<br />

back of a very large lorry. We throw out the<br />

anchors and sanity returns in no time, the<br />

EV12 pulling up without any fuss or drama.<br />

Pottering along at normal traffi c speeds,<br />

we’re left wondering where all that came from.<br />

More to the point, how it was possible without<br />

getting horribly out of shape as the engine<br />

dealt out more than a mere two wheels could<br />

possibly hope to cope with? Th is is the<br />

character of Brabus, genuinely dual-character<br />

cars that can be whatever you want them to be<br />

at that moment in time. In a domestic<br />

environment they make no demands on<br />

passengers through loud exhausts or rock-solid<br />

suspension. But, when the devil in the driver<br />

breaks free, they explode in an orgy of speed<br />

and sensation. And that applies to whatever<br />

model you want, whether it’s a Smart or a<br />

Mercedes SLS supercar.<br />

As if the latter was anything less than<br />

perfect already, Brabus has an exciting options<br />

list for the model. If you fi nd the suspension<br />

too harsh for the Autobahn but too soft for the<br />

Nurburgring, then order the Brabus version. It<br />

has dual settings that can be selected to suit the<br />

terrain and the driver’s mood. Th ere is even a<br />

PRIVATDRIVE<br />

replacement exhaust system available,<br />

beautifully crafted in titanium, that is not only<br />

lighter but also, at the fl ick of a switch, bypasses<br />

the silencer for a full-blooded roar.<br />

Th e talents at Brabus are not confi ned to<br />

new cars either. For some years now, the<br />

company has had a quiet sideline in restoring<br />

classic Mercedes. Good original examples are<br />

sought out and then completely restored to<br />

as-new condition. It may be a small part of the<br />

overall business but the commitment to a<br />

superb standard in the fi nished product is just<br />

as high as with the new cars.<br />

Although it works closely with the<br />

Thirty-Four<br />

Mercedes factory, Brabus is an independent<br />

company and can tackle challenges that the<br />

manufacturer might back away from. It also has<br />

the support of a loyal and enthusiastic customer<br />

base all over the world. Talking to Brabus<br />

employees, it soon becomes clear that the only<br />

acceptable standard here is excellence. Judging<br />

by how long most have stayed with the<br />

company, they obviously enjoy the challenge.<br />

Th e strength in depth and enthusiasm of<br />

its staff made Brabus one of the most endearing<br />

companies I have had the privilege to visit, but<br />

it was the shattering performance of its cars<br />

that made it unforgettable.


SMART�BRABUS<br />

When Daimler-Benz launched the Smart, it was a small car that<br />

transcended barriers of wealth or class. The car was so cool and you didn’t<br />

even have to be cash-strapped to want one. Many owners began to stamp<br />

their own identity on their Smart and, recognising a market, Smart and<br />

Brabus teamed up to form a new customising company. Using the la� er’s<br />

resources, a range of items has been developed that owners can have<br />

added to their cars on the production line.<br />

But some customers want to go further with unique colour schemes or<br />

trim options. To serve this need, more than 1,000 Smarts a year are<br />

delivered to a unit on the Brabus facility in Bo� rop where they can have<br />

whatever their owners want. You’d like the same paint and trim package as<br />

your Mercedes SLS? No problem. More power and a colour scheme the<br />

same as your favourite racing car? Of course, sir, anything is possible.<br />

PRIVATDRIVE<br />

Thirty-Five<br />

Previous page: the Brabus B63 S’s engine<br />

gives an awesome top speed of around 200mph.<br />

Opposite page: the Brabus EV12, which can<br />

churn out 800bhp from its twin-turbo V12.<br />

Left: a Brabus-customised Smart car.<br />

Below: the T65 RS speedos and headrest –<br />

Brabus can create any style of stitching you want<br />

EV��� ����BITURBO ����LIMOUSINE<br />

Base model E-Class SLS 800L<br />

Engine size 6,233 cc 6,208 cc 6,233 cc<br />

Power 790 bhp 690 bhp 789 bhp<br />

Torque 1,047 lb.� 627 lb.� 1,047 lb.�<br />

at 2,100 rpm at 4,300 rpm at 2,100 rpm<br />

Acceleration<br />

0–100kmph 3.7 s 3.7 s 3.9 s<br />

0–200kmph 9.9 s 10.2 s 10.3 s<br />

0–300kmph 23.9 s – 24.9 s<br />

Top speed 370 km/h 340 km/h 350 km/h


<strong>THE</strong>�YEATMAN<br />

Oporto is the English name for Porto, the main city of the<br />

Douro wine region and one of the most visually enchanting<br />

towns in Europe. With its cluster of historic buildings and a<br />

unique location on the river, it has rightly been awarded Unesco<br />

World Heritage status. Th e best hotels have traditionally been<br />

outside the historic centre, along the grand boulevards of<br />

Boavista, and they tend to be effi cient, luxurious but antiseptic:<br />

not very enticing for the upmarket visitor.<br />

Now, however, there is an infi nitely more alluring<br />

alternative. Th e Yeatman is a brand new hotel on the steep<br />

slopes of Vila Nova de Gaia, Porto’s twin town across the Douro<br />

facing the mesmerising Oporto cityscape. All 82 guest rooms<br />

have large open-air terraces with this dramatic view as the hotel<br />

is cleverly terraced into the hillside and the public rooms and<br />

open-air pool look across the curving river towards the arched,<br />

double-decker Dom Luís bridge astride a narrow gorge.<br />

All the great port houses have their cellars in Vila Nova de<br />

Gaia and so the Yeatman fi ts in perfectly as it’s the brainchild<br />

of Adrian Bridge, dynamic CEO of the Fladgate Partnership,<br />

one of the most revered names in the region with Taylor’s Port,<br />

Fonseca and Croft in its stable. Originally a soldier and then an<br />

investment banker, Bridge married into a Port family and his<br />

wife Natasha is the head blender of the group.<br />

Wine is an essential part of the Yeatman’s unique appeal<br />

with a massive wine cellar of 20,000 bottles and the world’s<br />

most comprehensive collection of Portuguese table wines and<br />

Ports. Th irty-one-year-old Beatriz Machado is the hotel’s wine<br />

director with an impressive academic background in viticulture<br />

and œnology, and she is assisted by the restaurant sommelier,<br />

Elisabette Fernandes. Together they work closely with executive<br />

chef Ricardo Costa who creates divinely imaginative food that<br />

refl ects the best of modern Portugal. He is a real talent.<br />

Lunch or dinner in the bright and airy restaurant is a true<br />

gourmet event with complex dishes that are a delight to the eye and<br />

the palate. Th e menu may list scallops in burnt cream with sea<br />

PRIVATDINING<br />

Iberian summer<br />

Destination restaurants in Spain and Portugal<br />

are topping the list for travelling gourmets this<br />

summer, says Jennifer Sharp<br />

Thirty-Six<br />

urchins, anchovies and citrus; blue Atlantic lobster with a broth<br />

of oysters and accompanied by a savoury terrine of milk-fed veal<br />

with foie gras and pistachio bread; wild turbot with roast tomatoes,<br />

eel rice in red wine and a curry sauce with mussels; or doublecooked<br />

suckling pig from Bisaro with sweet potato, braised<br />

chicory and hazelnut sauce. Th ere are dishes for vegetarians and<br />

for children, exotic desserts, Portuguese cheeses with homemade<br />

jams and fruit breads, plus extravagant tasting menus to<br />

showcase the chef ’s repertoire. Clearly this is not everyday eating<br />

and the hotel provides many opportunities for casual meals, but<br />

Ricardo Costa’s cooking at its best is not to be missed.<br />

Th e Yeatman reinforces its œnological reputation with regular<br />

wine dinners which attract not only hotel guests but wine makers<br />

and afi cionados from afar. And if all this temptation gets the better<br />

of your waistline, there’s always the hotel’s Caudalie Spa (with<br />

therapies based on wine, of course) to help regain your silhouette.<br />

Rua do Choupelo, 4400-088 Vila Nova de Gaia, Porto, Portugal,<br />

+351 22 013 3100, www.theyeatman.com<br />

SHIS�RESTAURANT<br />

Downriver from Porto, on the north-west coast of Portugal<br />

where the great Douro disgorges into the sea, there are miles of<br />

sandy beaches and esplanades backed by the smart apartments<br />

and villas of Foz. Shis is the most fashionable restaurant for<br />

miles, occupying a large decked area on a platform facing the<br />

water, above the beach but below road level. Steps lead down to<br />

a large open-air terrace with pots of greenery, white furniture<br />

and canvas parasols. Th is leads into an equally large, L-shaped<br />

minimalist restaurant with fl oor-to-ceiling windows, white<br />

origami-style paper and wire light fi ttings, blond wood, steel<br />

and dove-grey furniture and a sushi bar with high chairs along<br />

one side. All the tables are full and buzzing with couples<br />

fl irting, families celebrating and top businessmen doing deals.<br />

You feel you’ve arrived to be sitting there, watching the tide roll<br />

in and the children surf or splash in the waves outside.


Thirty-Nine<br />

Daniel Humm tailors<br />

fresh lobster to suit<br />

individual diners


Th e chef and co-owner is Antonio Vieira, whose<br />

cooking is clearly infl uenced by Japan and the Far<br />

East, hence the sushi bar, but translated into a local<br />

idiom with freshly caught seafood, the region’s best<br />

beef, black pork and alheira sausage. Portions are<br />

authentically Portuguese – huge. Th e extensive menu<br />

lists miso soup with clams and tofu, scallops tartar<br />

with coconut and lemongrass soup, and grilled<br />

shrimp with mild curry alongside gutsy meat dishes<br />

such as duck with black pepper crust and vanilla, or<br />

lamb with chestnut and mushroom crumble. Th ere<br />

are light but luxurious dishes for dieters (lobster<br />

salad with asparagus) or massive steaks for<br />

trenchermen. It’s all delicious with fresh, clean tastes<br />

and stylish presentation perfectly complemented by<br />

the wine list of mainly Portuguese wines, many<br />

available by the glass.<br />

At night when the sun sets across the water<br />

and the lights come on, Shis is an illuminated jewel<br />

box perched above the water’s edge as the Atlantic<br />

pounds the shore.<br />

Praia do Ourigo Esplanada do Castelo, Foz do Douro,<br />

4150-623 Porto, Portugal, +351 226 189593<br />

SCHILO�RESTAURANT<br />

Finca Cortesin is a serenely beautiful resort in the<br />

rolling foothills of the Casares mountains, a discreet<br />

distance from Sotogrande. Just a few years ago, this<br />

was bare land dotted with scrubby carob and olive<br />

trees. Now there is a palace set in 70 acres with<br />

manicured lawns and rose gardens with sweeping<br />

views over the Mediterranean. Th ere are airy<br />

courtyards and shady arcades, with heavy wooden<br />

doors, traditional tiles and a wealth of antiques: it<br />

feels old, like the country home of a Spanish grandee.<br />

Some visitors are drawn by the privacy and<br />

unhurried luxury, some by the superb spa, others by<br />

the championship golf course, which has just hosted<br />

the World Matchplay Championship. But the<br />

gourmet traveller has his sights on an exceptional<br />

restaurant, Schilo, named after the shy but immensely<br />

talented chef Schilo van Coevorden, who was last year<br />

hailed as the best chef in Spain.<br />

Schilo is responsible for all the restaurants within<br />

the resort including the traditional Andalusian<br />

cooking of El Jardín and a broad international menu<br />

for the alfresco and pool areas. But in his signature<br />

restaurant, Schilo has drawn on his experience in Asia<br />

and Japan to create a distinct style of elaborate, playful<br />

and utterly delicious dishes. You can choose a<br />

traditional three-course à la carte menu but it’s much<br />

better to launch into one of the multi-course tasting<br />

menus featuring dishes such as beetroot ice with<br />

caviar, soy-glazed eel sushi, green papaya salad with<br />

spider crab, foie gras gyoza with black truffl e, crystal<br />

sea bass with wild vanilla, turbot with miso, and milk<br />

lamb with date jus and Arabic rice. Th ere is also a<br />

vegetarian tasting menu featuring vegetables, fruit<br />

and herbs just picked from the estate’s own beds.<br />

Dishes are bursting with fl avour yet presented<br />

with delicacy and precision. Th e stately dining room is<br />

rich in both European and Japanese detail with fi ne<br />

porcelain and slender metal chopsticks alongside<br />

ornate silver wine coolers. Th ere are magnifi cent<br />

doorways with ancient tiles, elaborate sconces with<br />

carvings of grapes, tapestries and heavy wooden<br />

furniture inlaid with beaten silver. But there is also a<br />

cool Japanese aesthetic, the walls hung with silk<br />

panels and traditional paintings and a handsome red<br />

lacquer chest. Conquistador meets samurai.<br />

At one end of the room is a theatrical open kitchen<br />

where Schilo himself takes centre stage with silent<br />

assistants like religious acolytes or actors in a Noh<br />

performance. It’s a striking experience, especially if you<br />

are seated at the long sharing table alongside the ‘stage’.<br />

But even if you’ve chosen to sit further away or outside<br />

in the courtyard, you will still enjoy what is<br />

undoubtedly some of the fi nest cooking in Europe.<br />

Finca Cortesin, Hotel, Golf & Spa, Carretera de Casares,<br />

E-29690 Casares, Malaga, Spain,<br />

+34 952 937800, www.fi ncacortesin.com<br />

Thirty-Eight<br />

Previous page: Th e Yeatman,<br />

in Porto, Portugal, is a bright<br />

airy hotel with views over<br />

the city.<br />

Top: Shis, on Portugal’s<br />

coast near Porto, looks out<br />

over the Atlantic.<br />

Above: Schilo, at Malaga’s<br />

Finca Cortesin resort, features a<br />

theatrical open kitchen.<br />

Left: Schilo’s Asian-inspired<br />

menu makes use of herbs from<br />

the resort’s gardens


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or all the glamour of his charity’s<br />

reputation, Charlie Mayhew,<br />

co-founder and CEO of Tusk Trust, is<br />

astonishingly low-key. Much of what I know<br />

about his NGO, founded in 1992 with British<br />

actor Timothy Ackroyd, relates to its celebrity<br />

roll call of supporters. Th ey include rocker<br />

Ronnie Wood, DJ Zoe Ball, comedienne Ruby<br />

Wax and its royal patron, the Duke of Cambridge.<br />

Such are the circles in which he moves that<br />

Mayhew himself is only a week back from<br />

Westminster Abbey where he attended the Royal<br />

Wedding. So when I meet him in spring at the<br />

charity’s offi ces in Gillingham, Dorset – a small<br />

west-of-England market town – I’m frankly a<br />

PRIVATPERSON<br />

SAVE<br />

AND<br />

PROSPER<br />

Charlie Mayhew has made a career of protecting animals<br />

– but it wouldn’t have been possible without some very<br />

high-profi le supporters. Sophy Roberts talks to the founder<br />

of Tusk, the celebrity’s favourite wildlife charity<br />

little surprised by the lack of grandeur of brand<br />

Tusk. Because it is a brand, quite a big brand in<br />

NGO terms, raising in excess of £2.13m in 2010,<br />

the funds distributed across 40 projects in 17<br />

African countries since the charity’s inception.<br />

But let’s get back to Charlie – well-spoken,<br />

clean-cut Charlie, educated at that most upper<br />

crust of English boarding schools, Wellington<br />

College, and now living in Dorset with his wife<br />

and four children, a short hop from where his<br />

charity is HQ’d above Gillingham town post<br />

offi ce. Th ere are only four people based in the<br />

offi ce, which has much to do with the high<br />

percentage of funds (80 per cent) that reach<br />

benefi ciaries on the ground. Charlie (and let’s<br />

PORTRAIT�©�PAUL�STUART


call him that, as he’s a relaxed sort of chap) is<br />

drinking cheap instant coff ee. Dressed in a<br />

simple round-neck sweater and shirt, he looks<br />

like he might once have been in fi nance (which<br />

he was) and that it probably bored him (which<br />

it did). I say this because he has a spirited edge<br />

that reveals itself as soon as we start to talk. For<br />

while Charlie takes Tusk very seriously indeed<br />

– protecting wildlife, supporting communities,<br />

promoting education with grassroots, simple<br />

everyday solutions – he also sees the humour in<br />

how it all began. He was a gap year student, in<br />

South Africa, selling Bic biros from the back of<br />

a car. Th at was in 1979 – the fi rst time Charlie<br />

set foot on the continent. ‘I knew it wasn’t the


eal Africa, or at least the one of my romantic<br />

imagination fuelled by fi lms like Born Free,’ he<br />

says, ‘but it was on this trip as a door-to-door<br />

salesman that I went into Kruger National<br />

Park. My fi rst experience of African wildlife<br />

left me mesmerised.’<br />

After a stint at marine insurance in London<br />

and time as a deckhand on a Norwegian tanker,<br />

Charlie made it back out to Africa fi ve years<br />

later; from 1984 to 1986 he organised and led a<br />

major expedition as part of the UN’s<br />

International Year of Youth. Th e truth is he<br />

showed himself to be an eff ective hustler even<br />

then. Th e 33-strong team had the backing of<br />

Margaret Th atcher, the group driving a convoy<br />

of eight four-wheel-drive vehicles from the<br />

Sahara to Cape Town. ‘It was very aff ecting,’ he<br />

says. ‘We saw evidence of the bushmeat trade in<br />

the Congo, but it wasn’t until we reached East<br />

Africa that I saw the real impact of poaching.’<br />

It was the rhino specifi cally (the animal<br />

forms part of the Tusk logo) that was in trouble,<br />

the poaching ‘totally out of control,’ Charlie<br />

recalls. ‘Ten years before our expedition, Kenya<br />

had around 10,000 black rhino. By 1986, the<br />

numbers were down to 250.’ He continues:<br />

‘When you see such huge animals up close, it is<br />

magnifi cent – these prehistoric creatures that<br />

have been on the planet longer than any of us.<br />

Only man kills a fully grown rhino. Th ey have no<br />

natural predators. And then to see how they are<br />

mown down, and how humans will hack at its<br />

face to take a horn – it is a shocking, shocking<br />

thing.’ Charlie switches to the ivory trade,<br />

reeling off statistics. ‘Back in the 80s, poaching<br />

was taking off big time. By 1989, Africa was<br />

losing 100,000 elephants a year. Th e whole<br />

continent only had a population of 700,000. It<br />

was numbers like these that made me think we<br />

had to do something about it.’<br />

Th e original idea was for Ackroyd and<br />

Mayhew, who were friends, to make a thriller<br />

about poaching. Th ey hoped this would reach a<br />

wider audience than, say, a BBC documentary.<br />

Fuelled by naive optimism, they set up a charity<br />

ready to receive the fi lm’s profi ts, only to<br />

discover that Hollywood likes to keep the<br />

money for itself. Th en Disney came out with a<br />

similarly themed fi lm, A Far Off Place, about six<br />

months ahead of them. ‘It was just bad luck,<br />

bad timing,’ Charlie says. ‘We couldn’t compete


IMAGES�©�CORBIS<br />

Previous page: Charlie Mayhew at<br />

home in Dorset, where Tusk is based.<br />

Left: Mayhew’s vision is to protect<br />

animals by off ering tangible benefi ts from<br />

conservation to local people.<br />

Below: Mayhew and Tusk patron<br />

Prince William hand over a Land Rover<br />

to conservation workers on the ground<br />

with the mighty mouse, so that’s when we<br />

thought about fundraising in more<br />

conventional ways.’<br />

For the next fi ve years, Charlie devoted<br />

evenings to developing the Trust, coming back<br />

each night after a day’s slog as an independent<br />

fi nancial adviser. Hard work alone, however,<br />

soon proved insuffi cient. ‘I needed celebrity,’ he<br />

says. ‘Th rough the fi nancial world I had one or<br />

two good contacts, so I started to give that some<br />

attention.’ When he secured Ronnie Wood as a<br />

funding patron, things began to pick up. ‘Hello<br />

magazine covered every event we had,’ Charlie<br />

remembers. ‘Th is gave the impression we were<br />

much bigger than we were. And that’s when the<br />

momentum really started to build.’<br />

I suspect subtle tenacity is the secret to<br />

Charlie Mayhew’s success. He controls any<br />

conversation, yet he makes you feel like you<br />

decided the direction in which he’s steered it.<br />

Th is has to do with his likeable English manners<br />

and beguiling humility. (‘I sought celebrity<br />

support early on because I knew no one would<br />

be interested in me,’ he says.) One thing is clear:<br />

Charlie Mayhew doesn’t like talking about<br />

himself. Asked what he does for downtime, he<br />

says he doesn’t have time for anything except<br />

Tusk. ‘I remember how in the early days my desk<br />

would have piles of fi nancial advisory work on<br />

one side, and conservation on the other,’ he says.<br />

‘Both needed doing, but I would always do<br />

Africa fi rst. Th at’s when I knew I had to<br />

commit.’ So in 2000, he moved his family from<br />

London to the country, gave up the day job,<br />

resigned as the charity’s trustee, and became<br />

Tusk’s fi rst chief executive.<br />

Th e timing was fortuitous. Th at same<br />

millennium year, the heir to the UK throne was<br />

spending his gap year building hides for<br />

birdwatchers as a volunteer at the Lewa Wildlife<br />

Conservancy in northern Kenya, a game reserve<br />

Tusk had been involved with since 1995. ‘We<br />

were lucky, because eff ectively William came<br />

across us,’ says Charlie. ‘He got back from Africa<br />

and out of the blue I was called about a charity<br />

polo event in which he and his brother Harry<br />

were taking part. Th e palace wondered if Tusk<br />

would like to be a benefi ciary.’ It was in his<br />

thank-you note that Charlie tentatively asked if<br />

the prince might be interested in becoming a<br />

patron. ‘We were politely informed that while he<br />

PRIVATPERSON<br />

was at university, this would not be possible, but<br />

to please keep in touch. And I did.’ Five years<br />

later, and William committed to his fi rst two<br />

charities: Centrepoint, the homeless shelter in<br />

Central London, and Tusk.<br />

‘Th is catapulted us into the stratosphere,’<br />

Charlie recalls. ‘He provided us with a level of<br />

global credibility that I just can’t explain. Funds<br />

have more than doubled in the last fi ve years<br />

– an exponential rising curve. During the Royal<br />

Tour in Africa last June, we were taking around<br />

80 international media every day. His pulling<br />

power is extraordinary, and combined with his<br />

passion for Africa, well, even during the fi nancial<br />

‘William provided<br />

us with a level of global<br />

credibility that I<br />

just can’t explain.<br />

His pulling power<br />

is extraordinary’<br />

crises when we anticipated a 15 per cent downturn<br />

we came out 46 per cent up on the year.’<br />

Just as the Prince came across Tusk while<br />

on gap year, Teresa and Stuart Graham, a<br />

British couple and inveterate travellers to<br />

Africa, were tourists who became engaged with<br />

the charity ‘by accident’; they are now among<br />

Tusk’s most signifi cant private donors. ‘Lots of<br />

people who travel to Africa come across what<br />

we do inadvertently,’ says Charlie, citing<br />

Kenyan community-owned lodges Il Ngwesi,<br />

Tassia and Sarara as places holidaymakers<br />

might encounter their work.<br />

Tusk doesn’t leave all its fundraising to<br />

chance, of course; it fosters partnerships with<br />

travel professionals, teaming up with the likes of<br />

Africa specialist, London-based Tim Best, to<br />

expose clients to the charity’s work (it was Best<br />

who put the Grahams and Tusk together), Tusk<br />

encouraging tour operators to donate a<br />

‘conservation tax’ on behalf of each visitor. ‘I have<br />

known Tusk for as long as it has been going, and<br />

I’ve seen it grow to now encompass not only<br />

Forty-Three<br />

wildlife but also sustainability, communities and<br />

education. I think that’s the key to Africa’s<br />

future,’ says Best, who himself runs the Tusk<br />

Safaricom Marathon each June, all proceeds<br />

from the Lewa race going to the charity.<br />

Not that all the projects – some part-funded,<br />

others wholly supported by Tusk – are attractive<br />

from a tourism point of view. Security issues,<br />

accessibility and more come into play when the<br />

charity is working across 17 diff erent countries,<br />

including the Congo, Rwanda and Sierra Leone.<br />

But when it works, as Lewa does, Charlie is<br />

buoyed by the charity’s future: ‘It is all about<br />

creating successful templates to roll out<br />

elsewhere,’ he says, citing community-driven<br />

conservancies as the best examples. ‘Th ese lie at<br />

the core of our story. For us you could almost say<br />

conservation is community – a subtle but<br />

relevant defi nition, because unless communities<br />

experience fi nancial and tangible benefi ts from<br />

conserving wildlife, they will always see animals<br />

as a threat, not an asset.’ And when humans are<br />

seen to profi t, corporate donors step in, with<br />

Tusk backed by the likes of British Airways,<br />

Artemis and Deutsche Bank.<br />

Of course there is still a long way to go.<br />

Chinese presence in East Africa has helped push<br />

the price of rhino horn to $60,000 a kilo, says<br />

Charlie, making this so-called aphrodisiac more<br />

valuable than gold. Yet global philanthropy gives<br />

less than three per cent to environment and<br />

conservation. Tellingly Charlie doesn’t pass<br />

comment. Instead he lets me absorb the idea for<br />

myself. Subtle tenacity, you see, because after an<br />

hour, he hasn’t tried to make an acolyte of me by<br />

beating a drum. Such tactics, I have learnt, just<br />

aren’t Charlie Mayhew’s style.


WE DINED IN <strong>THE</strong> VINEYARD,<br />

WHICH WASN’T OPEN TO A SOUL.<br />

Hadn’t been for over 100 years. And<br />

yet there we were, the eight of us,<br />

laughing, with the sun on our shoulders<br />

and the most exquisite Bordeaux on<br />

our tongues.<br />

If Jane J hadn’t h d ’t known k Luc, L our gracious i host, h t we’d ’d<br />

be out strolling along another part of<br />

�����������������������������������������������������������������������������������������<br />

tales of his 70 years cultivating grapes and wooing women.<br />

��������������������������������������������������������<br />

our dessert, and Luc led us down a creaky stairway into<br />

a damp, private cellar, where he handed me a reserve<br />

bottle to remind me of our time there.<br />

Six weeks later, I watch the rugged coastline creep<br />

past our living room window, and open the bottle.<br />

I am immediately whisked back to the thick cellar air<br />

and gravelly vineyard soil. But the cool gusts coming<br />

in from the veranda pull me back, reminding me of the Arctic adventure that lies just<br />

over the horizon...


Only 200 make the journey, which continues aboardtheworld.com | +1 954 874 3399<br />

Residences at Sea


PRIVATESCAPE<br />

CHIC<br />

- O N-<br />

SEA�<br />

Th e Hamptons is the catchall<br />

name for the Long Island<br />

villages that off er refuge from<br />

the summer heat to wealthy<br />

New Yorkers. As Catherine<br />

Sabino reveals, the hottest<br />

Hampton is the little-known<br />

hamlet of Sagaponack<br />

When a village in the Hamptons, that cluster of<br />

gilded seaside enclaves on Long Island, topped<br />

Businessweek’s list as the most expensive town<br />

in America, it hardly seemed worth a headline. With close to<br />

three dozen billionaires (Ronald Lauder, Pete Peterson, Ralph<br />

Lauren among others) and countless celebrities (Gwyneth and<br />

Chris, Sir Paul) owning estates on the East End, how could a<br />

Hampton zip code fail to take fi rst prize?<br />

But few expected the hamlet of Sagaponack to sit atop<br />

the Businessweek rankings for the costliest US real estate, a<br />

position it has held the last two years; the median house value<br />

is $3,406,640, according to Zillow.com. Defi ned as much by<br />

its natural attractions as what it doesn’t off er A-listers,<br />

Sagaponack stubbornly remains a glitz-free oasis in the<br />

label-obsessed Shangri-La of Hampton towns running from<br />

Westhampton to Montauk Point.<br />

You’ll fi nd no designer boutiques, mogul-magnet restaurants,<br />

galleries or nightspots in Sagaponack – the usual loci around<br />

which a chic Hamptonite’s summer life revolves. Th e hamlet’s<br />

Main Street houses one building, containing a post offi ce and<br />

general store. Th e train from Manhattan doesn’t even stop here.<br />

Sagaponack’s low-key glamour has long been its allure. ‘Th e<br />

fact that Sagaponack isn’t commercial, that it retains its country<br />

appeal has just increased its desirability,’ says Beate Moore, a<br />

senior vice-president of Sotheby’s International Realty, who has<br />

sold property in Sagaponack and neighbouring Hamptons for<br />

over a decade. (And sold it well. Moore ranks sixth on the Wall<br />

Street Journal’s list of the most successful real estate executives by<br />

sales volume in America.) ‘You don’t feel like you’re on Park<br />

Avenue, as you might in the estate area of Southampton.’<br />

Sagaponack still has what drew people to the Hamptons in<br />

the fi rst place: a bucolic, open landscape with acres of working


IMAGE�©�PHOTOLIBRARY<br />

farmland, fl awless ocean beaches with powdery white sand,<br />

historic Shingle-style houses and balmy salt air breezes, all<br />

bathed in the soft, painterly light that artists in the region have<br />

tried to capture for hundreds of years. Families whose property<br />

deeds date to the mid-1600s continue to live in Sagaponack,<br />

farming their ancestral lands as they have for 15 generations.<br />

Th ey’re as likely to be your neighbour as the latest hedgie, or a<br />

famous name like JK Rowling, who paid $150,000 for a<br />

two-week rental in the hamlet several years back.<br />

Th at’s not to say you won’t fi nd pastoral settings, great<br />

beaches or Childe Hassam-like vistas elsewhere on the East<br />

End – each Hampton town has its special enchantments. Take a<br />

walk in East Hampton around the village green on a languid<br />

August day, or along Further Lane as the late afternoon fog rolls<br />

in from the sea, to experience some of the region’s celebrated<br />

beauty. It’s just that Sagaponack is more of what the Hamptons<br />

used to be: rural, a rustic refuge, rather than a city-in-thecountry<br />

redoubt. Even the large estates exude a discreet swank.<br />

‘Th e feeling of expansiveness, the openness you have in<br />

Sagaponack is quite rare in the Hamptons nowadays,’ says<br />

Perry Guillot, a highly sought-after landscape architect, who<br />

counts among his clients Aerin Lauder, Tory Burch and Tina<br />

Brown. ‘On certain lanes you can see all the way to the ocean.’<br />

In the history of Manhattan summer colonies, Sagaponack<br />

is a late discovery, when you consider Wall Street bankers<br />

started vacationing on the East End in the 1890s. Rich New<br />

York Catholic families, like the Murray and McDonnell clans,<br />

shunned by WASP Newport society, turned to Southampton in<br />

the 1920s. After World War II the artists came: Jackson Pollack<br />

and Willem de Kooning heading to the low-cost Springs (on<br />

the north side of Amagansett). For fl ush artists and writers, East<br />

Hampton’s New England-like charms were a perennial magnet.<br />

As East Hampton became more social, writers searched for<br />

a less frothy, more Bohemian vibe. In the late 50s and early 60s,<br />

a cluster of big-name authors found the quiet anonymity of<br />

Sagaponack very much to their liking. Truman Capote, that<br />

shrewd judge of chic and status, bought a house in the village<br />

in 1961. WASP scion and writer George Plimpton (famously<br />

blackballed by East Hampton’s posh Maidstone Club despite<br />

his Eastern Establishment bona fi des), Kurt Vonnegut and<br />

Peter Matthiessen took up residence in the hamlet as well. Th ey<br />

and a handful of other scribes had the place to themselves for<br />

years, living quietly (or relatively so – Plimpton was a fi reworks<br />

maestro) with the village’s fi rst families – the Whites, Fosters,<br />

and Hildreths. Until the early 1980s, Sagaponack looked and<br />

functioned very much as it had for the last 300 years.<br />

‘When I used to tell people my address was Sagaponack,<br />

they thought I lived on an Indian reservation,’ says author and<br />

journalist Linda Bird Francke, who has been here for over<br />

three decades. (While collaborating with Benazir Bhutto on<br />

her autobiography, she had the Pakistani prime minister out<br />

for a country visit.) When farming families, hobbled by<br />

inheritance taxes, began to sell chunks of land in the 1980s,<br />

Wall Street, fl ush with Reagan-era money, took note. ‘Th at’s<br />

when the interest in Sagaponack started,’ says Francke.<br />

Even with the growing desirability of its real estate,<br />

Sagaponack stayed an insider’s getaway for another decade.<br />

Caroline Kennedy, the late president’s daughter, her husband, Ed<br />

Schlossberg, and their children summered here quietly for<br />

years. In 1995, Lloyd Blankfein, now the CEO of Goldman<br />

Sachs, bought property on Parsonage Lane; a few years later,<br />

Gary Hurst, then vice-chair of Goldman, built a large home.<br />

For the most part the village kept off the media’s radar,<br />

glossies and tabloids happy to celebrity hunt in the better-known


Hamptons, until 1998. Th at was when Ira Rennert,<br />

the billionaire CEO of the Renco Group, began<br />

construction of what was believed to be the largest<br />

and most expensive house in America, on a swath of<br />

prime Sagaponack land. Plans for the 66,000-squarefoot<br />

home (100,000 square feet with its satellite<br />

buildings) brought fi erce opposition in the village, and<br />

launched a frenzied real estate saga few major<br />

American newspapers or magazines could resist.<br />

Enraged neighbours and local interests petitioned<br />

the town of Southampton (of which Sagaponack was<br />

part), in the hopes of denying Rennert the requisite<br />

building permits. Ads ran in local papers decrying ‘the<br />

rape of Sagaponack’. While Rennert ultimately won<br />

the battle and the hotel-size house was built (Zillow<br />

now values the estate at $200m), there was one upside<br />

to the whole ruckus: it served as a rallying cry, kicking<br />

Sagaponack’s other preservation eff orts into higher<br />

gear. Th e hamlet moved to change zoning laws,<br />

limiting house size to 20,000 square feet. In its own<br />

declaration of independence, Sagaponack broke away<br />

from the town of Southampton, incorporating in<br />

2005 to better control future development and<br />

beachfront property.<br />

‘Land use, that’s a key issue out here,’ says Steven<br />

Gaines, author of the best-selling Philistines at the<br />

Hedgerow, a book chronicling the social and real estate<br />

history of the Hamptons. He notes his town of East<br />

Hampton ‘has the toughest restrictions. Still, a lot of<br />

building can occur. What kind of building is crucial.’<br />

Lee Foster, Sagaponack’s deputy mayor, a member<br />

of one of the town’s founding families, and an active<br />

preservationist, says: ‘In the last half century we lost<br />

about 80 per cent of our original farmland.’<br />

Seven of the original families who farm in<br />

Sagaponack are determined to do so as long as they<br />

can keep the taxman at bay. ‘Keep in mind no farming<br />

family who sold in Sagaponack did so for the hell of<br />

it. Death taxes forced them to,’ says Foster.<br />

Even with the temptations of ever-escalating<br />

property valuations, Foster speaks of an ‘unpersuadable<br />

resolve’ on the part of local families to<br />

hold on to their farms, ‘to get them into the next<br />

generation, to continue the dialogue with the town to<br />

preserve land tracts. Th e eff orts to conserve what<br />

remains are endless.’ Meanwhile developers covetous<br />

of the seaside farmland keep circling.<br />

Despite its ‘most expensive’ ranking two years<br />

running, Sagaponack didn’t escape the recent economic<br />

downturn unscathed. But a Hamptons recession is like<br />

few others. While Sagaponack’s average house price<br />

slipped 14.5 per cent last year, according to Businessweek,<br />

and singer Billy Joel had to lower the price of his<br />

oceanfront home from $22.5m to $18.5m, recordbreaking<br />

sales continue for certain village properties.<br />

Th e most expensive real estate transaction in the<br />

Hamptons last year involved a Sagaponack home.<br />

Hedge funder David Tepper paid $43.5m for the<br />

PRIVATESCAPE<br />

Previous page: ocean-front houses<br />

are the most desirable properties.<br />

Below and right: village properties with<br />

gardens, pools and tennis courts, such as these<br />

available though Sotheby’s International<br />

Realty, can command record-breaking prices.<br />

Bottom: Th e East End of Long Island still<br />

has some rural pockets; it is still possible to fi nd<br />

an empty beach near Sagaponack.<br />

‘Th e fact that Sagaponack isn’t commercial,<br />

that it retains its country appeal has just<br />

increased its desirability’<br />

former vacation getaway of Jon Corzine, once CEO of<br />

Goldman Sachs. (At the time of its sale the property,<br />

which commanded a summer rental fee of $900,000,<br />

was owned by Corzine’s ex-wife, Joanne Brown.) Tepper<br />

will take a wrecking ball to the house, probably setting<br />

another record as the Hamptons’ costliest tear-down.<br />

Sky-high prices remain at the top of the market,<br />

but lower-end houses in all of the Hamptons – those<br />

under $5m – have languished. Properties in the<br />

$10-15m category can see a 15–20 per cent<br />

reduction from 2007. ‘Th roughout the area buyers<br />

are taking longer to commit,’ says Fritzi Kallop, a<br />

managing director at Brown Harris Stevens.<br />

Ambivalent buyers are more likely to rent for a<br />

season or two before purchasing an important<br />

property, one reason why the <strong>2011</strong> rental season<br />

promises to be a strong one. ‘So far it’s phenomenal,’<br />

says Jane Gill, vice-president at real estate fi rm<br />

Saunders and Associates.<br />

Forty-Eight<br />

IMAGES�©�JAKE�RAJS��GORGDON�M��GRANT��PHOTOLIBRARY��SPLASHNEWS�COM


And while weekend traffi c along Route 27, the<br />

major road that connects Southampton with Montauk<br />

Point, hasn’t dropped from its pre-recession levels,<br />

some of the frenetic socialising has. Th e gridlocked<br />

main roads may be as much a reason for the party<br />

fall-off as the shrunken stock portfolios of the last few<br />

years. For those in Sagaponack and nearby towns who<br />

do venture forth on a weekend night (avoiding Route<br />

27 by taking the back roads), a favourite destination is<br />

Mirko’s, where billionaire regulars include Pete<br />

Petersen, Henry Kravis, Edgar Bronfman and<br />

Jonathan Tisch. Margaret Th atcher and the Clintons<br />

have also stopped by. In Easthampton, Nick & Toni’s<br />

has been a celebrity watering hole for years, drawing<br />

Hollywood A-listers like Steven Spielberg, Tom<br />

Hanks, and Brad Pitt. (A sure hot spot this summer is<br />

Nobu, just opened at Southampton’s Capri hotel.)<br />

You don’t need reservations for the local beaches,<br />

just a coveted parking permit. Th is being the<br />

Hamptons, celebrity sightings are common, as are<br />

weekend crowds. Sagaponack residents without<br />

shoreline property, who are looking for more privacy<br />

than the village beaches at Sagg Main and Gibson<br />

Lane provide, can apply for membership at the nearby<br />

Bridgehampton Tennis and Surf Club. Beachfront<br />

clubs like East Hampton’s Maidstone ( Jacqueline<br />

Kennedy Onassis’s paternal family, the Bouviers, were<br />

prominent members), and the Southampton Bathing<br />

Corporation, for decades a hangout for Fords,<br />

Murrays and McDonnells, are tough to crack with<br />

years-long waiting lists.<br />

Unlike most places even mega-money often had<br />

little traction at these blue-blood bastions, so new<br />

clubs sprouted to absorb plutocrats with no place to<br />

golf – the Atlantic in the early 90s, the Bridge and<br />

the Sebonack Golf Club in the last decade. Initiation<br />

fees are hefty, ranging from $600,000 to $1,000,000<br />

– fi gures that refl ect the cost of the Hampton acreage<br />

needed to carve out the golf links.<br />

Th e weak dollar of the last half-decade has<br />

brought a more eclectic crowd to the Hamptons.<br />

You’ll hear French, German and Italian accents<br />

ordering the $75-a-pound lobster salad at<br />

Sagaponack’s Loaves and Fishes or fresh peaches and<br />

white corn at Pike’s Farm Stand on Sagg Main Street.<br />

Argentinean polo whizz Nacho Figueras is renting in<br />

Sagaponack again this summer, says Jane Gill, who<br />

brokered the deal. Fritzi Kallop rents her house on<br />

East Hampton’s Further Lane to an English family<br />

each August for $120,000.<br />

Even with the overseas infl ux, the Hamptons are<br />

still largely a preserve of East Coast elites. ‘Th is is<br />

not an international resort like St Tropez,’ notes<br />

Steven Gaines – although you might think<br />

otherwise on summer weekends, when the<br />

population booms (to double, even quintuple its<br />

year-round size), the country lanes are clogged with<br />

Mercedes and Maseratis, and a fi lm festival’s worth<br />

of celebrities pop up at area restaurants. So much for<br />

the hope that the fi nancial hurricane of 2008 might<br />

have washed some of the fl ash and excess out to sea.<br />

Besides, nostalgia for an older, gentler countryside is<br />

hard to come by for anyone who bought on the East<br />

End in the last decade or two – many towns were<br />

glossed up by then.<br />

Fortunately, many long-time Sagaponack<br />

residents have similar memories of an alternative<br />

Hamptons. Fortunately, too, some newcomers, yearn<br />

for the times they never knew, for the Hamptons they<br />

see in faded pictures at local historical societies. Th ey<br />

want something more than a suburbanised resort<br />

town for their summer getaway. Both groups know<br />

that for Sagaponack, the cost of remaining a bucolic<br />

throwback increases each year. Land values will keep<br />

soaring. Th ose who want in will pay any admission<br />

price. Th e future of Sagaponack depends on who will<br />

be listening as big money continues to call.<br />

Forty-Nine<br />

<strong>SUMMER</strong>�<br />

CALENDAR�<br />

While the recession has<br />

reduced the number of benefi ts,<br />

here are the ones that bring out<br />

the area’s biggest names.<br />

��JULY<br />

parrish�art�museum�midsummer�<br />

party (www.parrishart.org,<br />

+1 631 283 2118, ext 33 or 42)<br />

A fund-raising event that mixes<br />

old-time blue bloods with the<br />

hedge-fund crowd.<br />

���JULY<br />

super�saturday�benefit�for�<br />

ovarian�cancer�research<br />

(www.ocrf.org) Established to<br />

honour the memory of former<br />

British Vogue and Harper’s<br />

Bazaar editor Liz Tilberis. More<br />

than 200 designers participate.<br />

���JULY<br />

summer�benefit�at�the�watermill�<br />

center�(www.watermillcenter.org,<br />

+1 212 253 7484 ext 10) This<br />

summer bash given by theatre<br />

and multimedia impresario<br />

Robert Wilson’s Watermill<br />

Center is an art world must.<br />

Miranda Richardson, Emily<br />

Mortimer and Calvin Klein<br />

a� ended last year’s event.<br />

��AUGUST<br />

southampton�hospital’s�<br />

annual�summer�party�<br />

(www.southamptonhospital.org,<br />

+1 631 726 8700 ext 3 or 7) Old<br />

Southampton and new come<br />

out to party for this local<br />

institution. Bushes, Buccellatis,<br />

and other big names aplenty!<br />

���AUGUST<br />

guild�hall�summer�gala<br />

(www.guildhall.org, +1 631 324 0806)<br />

draws starchitects, models, a<br />

sma� ering of Hollywood-in-the<br />

Hamptons regulars, and<br />

investment bankers to support<br />

East Hampton’s museum and<br />

John Drew theatre.


PRIVATTRAVEL<br />

ICE�SAFARI<br />

John Rendall, best known for his work in wildlife<br />

preservation in Africa, goes on a very diff erent<br />

wilderness adventure to Antarctica<br />

The late George Adamson was my<br />

introduction to wildlife<br />

preservation. My relationship with<br />

him began in Swinging London in the<br />

1960s when a fellow Aussie and I bought a<br />

lion cub called Christian in Harrods pet<br />

department, as you could in those days. He<br />

lived with us in our fl at and became famous<br />

among the Chelsea crowd, but when he got<br />

too big we took him to George, who had<br />

found fame with Born Free and the story of<br />

Elsa the lioness. George successfully<br />

reintroduced Christian to the wild, but<br />

when we visited him the following year he<br />

recognised us. Th e fi lm of him running<br />

towards us and not killing but kissing us<br />

made its way onto YouTube, where it has<br />

been watched by 100 million people. Th is<br />

was the start of a lifelong fascination with<br />

conservation for me, and I remain a trustee<br />

of the George Adamson Wildlife<br />

Preservation Trust.<br />

Because of my lion Christian and his<br />

rehabilitation by George Adamson, I had a<br />

privileged introduction to the wilderness<br />

areas of East Africa, where the vistas are so<br />

IMAGE�©�NATIONAL�GEOGRAPHIC


Above: a humpback<br />

whale surfaces in the<br />

Weddell Sea.<br />

Right: a leopard<br />

seal on an ice fl oe<br />

<strong>THE</strong>�HEROIC�<br />

AGE�OF�<br />

ANTARCTIC�<br />

EXPLORERS<br />

vast you can see the curvature of the earth and<br />

individual stars and galaxies can be clearly identifi ed<br />

without light pollution from cities. It was also an<br />

awakening to the sheer rawness of the survival and<br />

diversity of wildlife in Africa. It is a savage yet fragile<br />

balance, threatened by the demand on land for<br />

domestic farming, by disease and habitat degradation.<br />

Th ese threats are well recognised by an aware<br />

consensus of world opinion, facilitated by the relative<br />

ease of visiting the great National Parks of Africa.<br />

However, alarmingly similar threats are aff ecting the<br />

remotest wilderness area in the world, the Antarctic,<br />

which is not so easy to access, as it takes both far<br />

more commitment and time.<br />

However, when I was off ered the opportunity to<br />

visit I seized the chance of embarking on a more<br />

southerly safari. Th e most eff ective route is via Ushuaia,<br />

the southernmost city in the world and capital of<br />

Tierra del Fuego in Argentina. Th e city nestles at the<br />

1901–04<br />

Robin Falcon Sco� sailed in the Discovery, with Ernest<br />

Shackleton and Edward Wilson, to try and reach the<br />

South Pole. They reached 82º south but were defeated<br />

by snow-blindness and scurvy<br />

PRIVATTRAVEL<br />

Fifty-Two<br />

1907–09<br />

Shackleton’s Nimrod expedition,<br />

with Wild, Adams and Marshall,<br />

came within 97 miles of the Pole.<br />

Defeated when supplies ran out<br />

1911<br />

Roald Amundsen, with his dog teams,<br />

reached the Pole on 14 December.<br />

His well-equipped men included<br />

the Olympic skier Olav Bjaalard


Above right:<br />

a leopard seal<br />

hunting a penguin.<br />

Above far right:<br />

an albatross in<br />

eff ortless fl ight<br />

IMAGE�©�PHOTOLIBRARY<br />

1912<br />

Sco� ’s fi ve-man team reached the South Pole<br />

on 17 January, a month a� er Amundsen, but<br />

all died, including Captain Oates (of ‘I may be<br />

some time’ fame) and their ponies<br />

PRIVATTRAVEL<br />

southern tip of the Andes Mountains and was the<br />

departure port for my expedition organised by<br />

Antarctic and Arctic expedition specialists Angie<br />

Butler and Caro Mantella’s company, Ice Tracks. Th e<br />

town’s Wild West atmosphere, with its bustling<br />

chandlers and Antarctic travel outfi tters, is vibrant and<br />

colourful, with distinctive corrugated-iron buildings;<br />

the town grew up around its jail, where the most<br />

notorious Argentine criminals were once incarcerated.<br />

From this outpost it is a two-day voyage across<br />

the notoriously unpredictable Drake Passage to the<br />

Antarctic Peninsula. In the middle of the Passage you<br />

cross the Antarctic Convergence, where the nutrientrich<br />

Antarctic waters meet the more temperate waters<br />

of the South Atlantic. Here I saw my fi rst albatross<br />

and encountered the world of the krill, a 6cm<br />

shrimp-like creature which is the key to the survival<br />

of mammals, sea birds and indeed all life in the<br />

Antarctic. Crucially, it is a vital factor in carbon<br />

processing and the most prolifi c species on earth.<br />

My fi rst albatross was a glorious sight (no wonder<br />

the Ancient Mariner was cursed by his fellow crew<br />

members for shooting one), and I marvelled at the<br />

grace of its eff ortless fl ight. A wandering albatross can<br />

live for 60 years and weigh up to 85kg, and has the<br />

largest wingspan of any bird – over three metres. A<br />

tagged bird was once recorded as fl ying 25,000km in<br />

nine weeks. Th ere were also humpback and minke<br />

whales to escort my ship, the polar explorer Marina<br />

Svetaeva, crewed by stoical Russians, who seemed<br />

oblivious to the cold. However, the chef was<br />

1911–1914<br />

Mawson’s<br />

companions died<br />

while crossing<br />

George V Land<br />

1914–16<br />

Shackleton failed to make the fi rst transcontinental<br />

crossing of Antarctica. The Endurance was crushed by<br />

ice but Shackleton still managed to save the lives of<br />

all his men<br />

Fifty-Three<br />

Argentinian and the sous chefs were Filipino, so there<br />

wasn’t a bowl of borscht in sight for the 14-day trip.<br />

Because the Marina Svetaeva is strengthened for<br />

polar expeditions with a Lloyd’s 100-1-A rating, we<br />

were able to enter the Weddell Sea, smashing through<br />

the ice, while cathedral-sized icebergs drifted by. Th eir<br />

blue tinge is a refl ection from the water but it appears<br />

as if some giant brush has been used to paint stripes<br />

of cobalt through the crevices. Each iceberg was a<br />

sculpture, each worthy of a portrait but impossible to<br />

do justice to with a camera. Th is is where so many<br />

dramas of the heroic age of Antarctic exploration<br />

were played out, notably Robert Falcon Scott’s<br />

doomed expedition. Angie Butler is an expert on this<br />

era and her talks, which are an integral part of the<br />

voyage, reveal the tragedies, errors of judgement and<br />

the often poor planning of these expeditions, which<br />

were then the equivalent of space exploration.<br />

As dramatic as the history was, it was the animals<br />

I had come to see. Th e most exhilarating but<br />

shockingly savage highlight of any safari in Africa is<br />

to witness a lion kill, to observe the very process of<br />

survival by a species, when a pride of lion successfully<br />

stalk, kill and devour their prey. It is a well-planned<br />

attack, with the lions working together as a team to<br />

secure the future of the whole pride, including the<br />

vulnerable cubs. I have witnessed many and have<br />

never ceased to be amazed by the violence and drama,<br />

but nothing prepared me for the shock of witnessing<br />

a leopard seal killing a gentoo penguin in the Weddell<br />

Sea. Here there was no visible plan or warning of an<br />

1922<br />

The Quest expedition<br />

ended prematurely with<br />

the death of Shackleton<br />

on South Georgia


In the Zodiac I came<br />

close enough to a humpback<br />

whale to realise it had<br />

very bad halitosis<br />

attack – just a sudden surge from the water and a<br />

snapping of jaws, which left the penguin no escape.<br />

Adding to the intensity of the drama was the fact that<br />

I was so close, because each day we left the ship with<br />

a guide in infl atable Zodiac boats, which took us onto<br />

the shore or the ice.<br />

Penguins are unafraid of people, and the chicks,<br />

waiting patiently for their parents to return from<br />

fi shing, pecked hopefully at our legs. But as sweet as<br />

they look, I hadn’t expected the smell! Of course it<br />

makes sense when you see the piles of guano around<br />

them and their rudimentary nests consisting of a few<br />

stones pushed together. Th ere are over 20 diff erent<br />

species of penguin but only two, the emperor (the<br />

stars of the movie Happy Feet) and the Adélie, live<br />

their whole lives in the Antarctic; the others are<br />

migratory, only visiting the Antarctic to breed.<br />

Th e other unexpected smell was from a humpback<br />

whale. In the Zodiac I was close enough to a blowing<br />

humpback to realise it had very bad halitosis! It was<br />

also at least twice as long as the Zodiac, and I was<br />

relieved we never got so near the southern blue whale,<br />

which is the size of a Boeing 747, weighs up to 190<br />

tons, and eats 3,600kg of krill a day. Th e largest ever<br />

recorded was 33.6m. It has been estimated that over<br />

two million whales have been killed in the Southern<br />

Ocean and that the remaining population represents<br />

only fi ve per cent of that number. Other animals have<br />

been successfully protected, however.<br />

PRIVATTRAVEL<br />

Demand for seal fur reduced the Antarctic fur seal<br />

to just 30 pairs on Bird Island, near South Georgia, at<br />

one point, but today there are three to four million thanks<br />

to their protected status, established by the Antarctic<br />

Treaty. However seals, like all the other wildlife in the<br />

Antarctic, are still threatened by overfi shing, drift nets<br />

and long lines, lead sinkers and fi sh hooks, collision<br />

with ships, oceanic fl otsam and oil spillage. It is a<br />

formidable list. I feel strongly that if more of the<br />

world’s movers and shakers were to see (and smell)<br />

these animals in their natural habitat then awareness<br />

could be raised, which is the reason I wanted to write<br />

about Antarctica in this magazine. Of course many,<br />

including the Prince of Wales, do take a keen interest.<br />

My return crossing of Drake Passage was<br />

dramatically diff erent from my gently rolling outward<br />

journey. We were caught in a force 10 gale. Winds<br />

rose to 60 knots and 17-metre waves crashed over the<br />

ship. It gave me a better understanding of the disasters<br />

suff ered by the heroic-age explorers. Antarctica was<br />

my seventh continent and it has changed the way I see<br />

the world. See it for yourself and help save it.<br />

Fifty-Four<br />

Clockwise from<br />

left: the remains of<br />

an iceberg; Rendall’s<br />

mothership, the<br />

Marina Svetaeva,<br />

braves the Weddell<br />

Sea; ‘paparazzi’<br />

capture a whale<br />

surfacing beside the<br />

Zodiac; an emperor<br />

penguin chick poses<br />

TRAVEL�FACTS<br />

John travelled to Antarctica<br />

with Ice Tracks, a boutique<br />

Antarctic and Arctic expedition<br />

specialist company founded by<br />

Carolina Mantella and<br />

heroic-age authority and author<br />

Angie Butler, which operates in<br />

conjunction with One Ocean<br />

expeditions, a full member of<br />

the International Association of<br />

Antarctic Tour Operators. <strong>2011</strong>/<br />

2012 expeditions start on 28<br />

November, through to mid-<br />

March 2012. The prime One<br />

Ocean Suite is $18,000 but<br />

private charters for the whole<br />

ship are also available (rates by<br />

negotiation), contact Angie<br />

Butler, www.ice-tracks.com<br />

IMAGES�©�NATIONAL�GEOGRAPHIC��JOHN�RENDALL


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RELAX�AND�UNWIND�<br />

Celestria Noel reviews Maradiva, a new luxury<br />

retreat on the Indian Ocean island of Mauritius<br />

The Indian Ocean is home to three<br />

major luxury destinations, the Maldives,<br />

the Seychelles and Mauritius. Each can<br />

supply sun, sand and sea, as well as levels of<br />

service that have made the Caribbean struggle to<br />

keep pace. But Mauritius, a big island as opposed<br />

to an archipelago, has an added ingredient in its<br />

culture and history. Th e island, having been<br />

discovered by the Portuguese, who did not stay,<br />

then became French, with slave labour brought<br />

in from East Africa, and fi nally British, with<br />

workers from India, before gaining its<br />

independence. Th e resulting mix is by and large<br />

successful and happy. Mauritians may be of<br />

European descent or Indian, African or a<br />

mixture of all three. Th e law means that all must<br />

be fairly represented in the government. Almost<br />

all speak a French-based Creole among<br />

themselves but also speak both English and<br />

Fifty-Seven<br />

French. Th e result is an island which is well<br />

suited to global hospitality.<br />

In practice many of the most successful<br />

entrepreneurs on the island today are of Indian<br />

descent. One of these, Sanjiv Ramdanee, decided<br />

that he would like to establish a Mauritianowned<br />

luxury resort that was not part of a<br />

multinational group and never would be. What’s<br />

more, he decided to locate the resort, Maradiva<br />

Resort Villas & Spa, on the west coast, where<br />

many of the island’s wealthiest families have<br />

homes. It is near the island’s smartest golf course<br />

and an old established sailing club, where most<br />

of the members are what is known locally as<br />

Franco-Mauritian. By contrast most of the<br />

island’s well-known and long-established grand<br />

hotels, such as the One and Only Le St Géran<br />

and the Royal Palm, are clustered along the<br />

scenic north-east coast.


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Th e most obvious benefi t of looking westwards is<br />

of course the sunset, but in addition the coastline is<br />

fl atter on the west coast, providing a sweeping beach,<br />

and a shallow, calm lagoon, with a small reef half a<br />

mile out. Th ere is more elbow room on this coast,<br />

allowing the all-villa hotel a huge 27-acre site with<br />

only 65 villas on it. Th e grounds have been<br />

exceptionally well landscaped, with carefully<br />

thought-out vistas, and it will improve as it matures.<br />

Th e villas have been sited so that they off er privacy,<br />

but most back onto a grassy space through which you<br />

can wander down to the tree-lined shore. If you want<br />

extreme privacy there are several villas with garden<br />

walls, but most gardens are open to the beach.<br />

Nevertheless my plunge pool (big enough for lengths)<br />

was secluded enough for a morning dip au naturel.<br />

At the beach, even during a time of high<br />

occupancy (I went in the Christmas holidays), there<br />

were always plenty of places to park oneself in<br />

comfort and well away from anyone else. Th e beach<br />

is not technically private, but hawkers, all too<br />

familiar in the Caribbean, are few and far between<br />

in this out of the way spot. Th ere are, however, one<br />

or two people to watch as they ride by on horses,<br />

which the hotel can organise for guests if desired.<br />

A typical dinner was<br />

smoked marlin with palm<br />

heart tartare or coconut<br />

heart salad with white<br />

truffle or maybe seared<br />

prawns with taro leaves<br />

PRIVATRESORT<br />

Th e hotel’s water sports are<br />

concentrated at one end of the<br />

beach but were hardly intrusive<br />

anyway. I never heard a single<br />

jet-ski or speedboat all week.<br />

As with any new resort there<br />

have been teething problems with<br />

some inexperienced staff in the<br />

lower echelons. For this rarefi ed<br />

level the service was not quite there<br />

yet, a fact that was acknowledged<br />

and is being dealt with. Th e staff with whom you actually interacted on the<br />

other hand, such as the bar staff and waiters, were all top-notch, friendly<br />

and smiling but not in-your-face. Th e breakfast staff always remembered<br />

preferences and gave one a warm welcome. Breakfast, incidentally, included<br />

a cabaret of very tame birds eating the leftover fruit.<br />

Th ere are two restaurants, the more formal and enclosed Cilantro,<br />

where the food is pan-Asian, and the all-day Coast2Coast, open-sided and<br />

on the beach, next to the bar by the main pool. Th e food was outstanding<br />

with a French chef using many local ingredients. I hate to use the muchabused<br />

word fusion – the food is more French than that – but neither is it<br />

bland international luxury cuisine. A typical dinner was smoked marlin with<br />

palm heart tartare, or coconut heart salad with white truffl e, velouté of roast<br />

and smoked pumpkin, followed by seared prawns with taro leaves, or stewed<br />

lamb. Th e pumpkin soup, which was outstanding, and the lamb are French<br />

comfort food – not really what you immediately think of eating by the<br />

Indian ocean. However the mixture worked surprisingly well as, spoilt<br />

though it sounds, you can get seafood fatigue – though I can usually force<br />

myself to eat more lobster. Th e wine list is predominately French but there<br />

are New World and South African choices. South Africa is not far away, in<br />

fact racehorses from there are shipped over to race at the track in Port<br />

Louis, the island’s capital, in SA’s off season.<br />

Fifty-Nine<br />

Previous spread:<br />

the infi nity pool at<br />

Maradiva.<br />

Top: each villa has<br />

its own pool just<br />

outside the bedroom.<br />

Left: there is plenty<br />

of room on the treefringed<br />

beach.<br />

Middle: each huge<br />

bathroom also has a<br />

private outdoor area


You can in theory ask for a light diet, as recommended by<br />

the spa’s ayurvedic practitioner, but hedonistic wellbeing is<br />

more Maradiva’s style than serious destination-spa detoxing.<br />

Th e spa element is best treated as an all-round relaxation<br />

experience. For instance, the yoga classes are fi ne but not of the<br />

calibre you would expect at a dedicated yoga retreat. Th e spa<br />

has its own building with a pool and tranquil treatment rooms.<br />

It off ers a range of treatments, massages, wraps and facials,<br />

mainly with an Asian feel and some specifi cally ayurvedic, and<br />

designed to be healing as well as pure beauty treatments. Th e<br />

staff were both male and female, and all experienced and<br />

intelligent, and mercifully not too chatty. Th ey were fl exible<br />

about changes of plan and the whole thing ran effi ciently to<br />

time, without you ever feeling hurried.<br />

Resorts like Maradiva tend to be self-contained but there are<br />

plenty of excursions to be had, either taking a boat down the very<br />

beautiful coast – perfect for the late afternoon, with the sun<br />

setting in the direction of Africa on your right and the coastal<br />

plain, with mountains behind, to the left. Not far away is a busy<br />

fi shing port and in the opposite direction the lively small town of<br />

Flic en Flac, with bars and shops. Th e capital, Port Louis, whose<br />

colonial centre survives, along with a fort overlooking the<br />

harbour, is about 45 minutes away. You can see the last poor dodo,<br />

stuff ed and in a museum, and shop in a vast covered market, and<br />

there are some good restaurants, especially Chinese and Indian.<br />

Ramdanee sees Maradiva as more contemporary in style<br />

than some of the existing hotels of the island, more relaxed with<br />

its all-villa plan and suitable for sophisticated families and<br />

individuals from Europe but also from India, Russia and the<br />

PRIVATRESORT<br />

Top: the hotel’s<br />

Presidential Villa.<br />

Above: the spacious<br />

spa has tranquil<br />

treatment rooms<br />

Sixty<br />

Th e all-villa concept attract s<br />

sophist icated families from<br />

India, Russia and the Gulf<br />

Gulf, which is not very far. Ramdanee aims to off er the sort of<br />

service and fl exibility that he thinks only a privately owned<br />

resort, run on an individual basis, can really provide. Having said<br />

that, it is not over the top – butlers are confi ned to the top-of-the<br />

range villas, for example, though other staff will do their best to<br />

give you anything you need. You don’t have to dress up much, but<br />

a fashionable element was injected while I was there by the<br />

presence of a pop-up boutique, an outpost of Clickini.com. Its<br />

elegant Irish founder, Jonathan McKeever, sells designer dresses<br />

and cover-ups online as well as swimwear. He found that wealthy,<br />

fashion-conscious local women come to shop at Mauritius’s<br />

upmarket hotels; Port Louis boutiques do not run to Heidi Klein<br />

so the fi ve-stars are centres of sophistication on the island.<br />

However Mauritius is becoming an ever more popular<br />

destination for the super rich. Th e recent opening of YU Lounge<br />

(www.yulounge.com), a dedicated full-service private terminal at<br />

the airport, by GAM (General Aviation Mauritius) refl ects the<br />

growing popularity of Mauritius for users of private aviation. Th e<br />

timely arrival of Maradiva on the scene gives the island, best<br />

known for its somewhat stately hotels, a new string to its bow.<br />

Celestria Noel travelled as a guest of Air Mauritius and To Escape To,<br />

who specialise in Africa, the Indian Ocean and South America;<br />

www.toescapeto.com


TIMELESS STYLE<br />

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JEAN-MAIRET�&�GILLMAN��JMG��IS<br />

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PRIVATFASHION<br />

TURKISH�DELIGHT<br />

Istanbul, where Europe and Asia meet, is the ideal<br />

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this season’s designer styles<br />

Black blouse by Sasha Moon;<br />

long printed skirt by Erdem<br />

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necklace and headpiece<br />

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cuff s and long neck chain by<br />

Chanel; headscarf by Yves<br />

Saint Laurent Vintage


PRIVATFASHION<br />

Him: black jacket by Paul<br />

and Joe; white co� on shirt<br />

by Martin Margiela at<br />

brownsfashion.com;<br />

black trousers by Dior;<br />

embroidered belt by<br />

Pebble London<br />

Sixty-Four<br />

Her: black jacket by DKNY; piqué shirt<br />

by Alexander McQueen; printed-silk<br />

trousers by Dries Van Noten at<br />

brownsfashion.com; bracelets and big<br />

necklace by Pebble London; pendant<br />

by Lanvin; headscarf by Paul Smith at<br />

my-wardrobe.com


Printed jumpsuit and<br />

headscarf by Halston at<br />

my-wardrobe.com; golden<br />

sandals and chain by Chanel;<br />

bracelets and big necklaces<br />

by Pebble London; scarf<br />

around shoulders by Lo�


Chiff on blouse by Chanel; co� on trousers<br />

by Lanvin at matchesfashion.com;<br />

big golden pendant and necklace by<br />

Pebble London; small neck chain and<br />

black cuff by Chanel; headscarf by<br />

Burberry at brownsfashion.com


Him: blue co� on shirt by John<br />

Varvatos; embroidered cardigan by<br />

Kolor at brownsfashion.com; so� -wool<br />

trousers by Lanvin; embroidered<br />

slippers by Roberto Cavalli; ring and<br />

necklace by Pebble London<br />

Her: printed-silk dress by Adam at<br />

brownsfashion.com; blue bolero by<br />

Marni at brownsfashion.com; strapped<br />

heels by Sophie Gi� ins; headscarf by<br />

Gucci at matchesfashion.com;<br />

jewellery by Pebble London<br />

PRIVATFASHION<br />

Sixty-Seven<br />

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PRIVATJEWELS<br />

Gems are back at the heart of contemporary<br />

high jewellery, says Vivienne Becker, and<br />

the bigger the better<br />

new mood has crept up on the high jewellery world,<br />

a renewed focus on important, ultra-precious and<br />

rare gemstones that delivers a fresh power and<br />

purity of statement and design. Th is is almost like<br />

a cleansing of the palette, a breathing space after<br />

the onslaught of wild, almost delirious colour<br />

and creativity that produced complicated and<br />

complex narrative high-jewellery designs of almost<br />

unprecedented fl amboyance.<br />

Now the trend towards ‘slow design’ – something<br />

pure and peaceful and essential – has joined forces<br />

with the prevailing preoccupation with the signifi cant<br />

gemstone as a traditional, safe store of wealth, to<br />

redirect attention in high jewellery onto spectacular,<br />

precious stones. Th is in eff ect marks a return to the true<br />

essence of high jewellery; although, where once the<br />

conventional, rather dowdy cluster was unassailable,<br />

now the hero-gem is showcased within a fresh,<br />

contemporary splendour, in settings that are classic<br />

but modernised, technically advanced, light and fl uid,<br />

designed and engineered to show stunning and rare<br />

gems to perfection.<br />

66.4 carat rare blue Paraiba<br />

tourmaline maline and diamond<br />

necklace lace by Harry Winston


PRIVATJEWELS<br />

Seventy<br />

Left: two- and four-stack diamond and<br />

yellow gold Ice Cube rings by Chopard.<br />

Below left: mandarin garnet and pink<br />

spinel ring set with diamonds in<br />

platinum by Harry Winston<br />

Beverly Hills-based Robert Procop, whose new venture,<br />

Robert Procop Exceptional Jewels, is based entirely on<br />

extraordinary, important gems, explains: ‘Recession or boom,<br />

there is always demand for important gems as hard assets for<br />

investment. With gemstones, there is an element that will<br />

appreciate, and in recent years this demand has escalated; today<br />

there is an even greater opportunity for the investor, as some<br />

depressed markets are selling at the same time as emerging<br />

markets are in growth. Th ese are very active times.’<br />

His speciality and passion has been coloured diamonds,<br />

which are enjoying unprecedented popularity and value growth,<br />

but he sees too that interest in coloured stones, fi ne emeralds,<br />

rubies and sapphires is also escalating. Th is he attributes to<br />

a greater transparency and regulation in the coloured-stone<br />

industry, to better classifi cation by gemological laboratories, to<br />

education, understanding, trust and confi dence.<br />

It is true that important gems have always been perceived<br />

as tangible assets, a safe haven in troubled economic times and<br />

political turmoil, easily portable, the most highly concentrated<br />

form of intrinsic value. But what is diff erent today is not only the<br />

size and rarity of the stones in greatest demand, but also the level<br />

of in-depth, informed connoisseurship that is shaping a very real<br />

and discerning, rather than speculative, market, and the way in<br />

which this return to the purity of precious stones is inspiring a<br />

new generation of elegant, low-key, refi ned but resonant designs.<br />

Procop believes that ‘every stone has a mission of its own.<br />

Fine stones don’t need enhancement, they need a sculptural frame.<br />

It is not about any particular direction, but a mount worthy of<br />

the stone.’ In the Style of Jolie collection, a collaboration with<br />

Angeline Jolie, to benefi t her charity, Education Partnership for<br />

Children in Confl ict, Procop has set superb emeralds, rich golden<br />

citrines, shimmering green beryls and voluptuous rubellites in<br />

contemporary generously rounded frames of yellow or rose gold,<br />

or in the distinctive geometric square or rectangular “tablet” style<br />

favoured by Jolie, inspired by ancient engraved stone tablets.<br />

A stunning necklace is designed as a stream of 44 spectacular,<br />

cushion-cut emeralds, of a bright vivid green, immaculately<br />

matched, each wrapped in its rolled frame of yellow gold, a worldclass<br />

collection of gems in a setting of low-key, contemporary<br />

opulence. Other high-profi le gems in Procop’s Exceptional<br />

Jewels collection include a staggering 223 carat Sri Lankan blue<br />

sapphire, in a silky, mesmerising royal blue, the colour of nobility<br />

and contemplation, and a natural 70 carat emerald that Procop<br />

considers to be truly unique in the marketplace today.


Right: line diamond bracelet by<br />

Leviev and diamond ring by Cartier.<br />

Below right: 24.04 carat round<br />

diamond ring by Graff<br />

Th e return to the concept of embellishing or dressing an<br />

important stone also turns the spotlight back onto the world’s<br />

great classical jewellers, for whom the stone has always been the<br />

main event: Graff , Leviev, Moussaieff , Harry Winston and the<br />

more recently established Sotheby’s Diamonds, a joint venture<br />

between Sotheby’s and diamantaire Steinmetz, with talented New<br />

York designer-jeweller James de Givenchy as creative director.<br />

Last year, in New York and Washington, Harry Winston<br />

returned to its roots with the launch of a modern-day Court of<br />

Jewels, a collection of sensational diamonds and coloured gems,<br />

revitalising Winston’s original 1950s Court of Jewels travelling<br />

charity exhibition that sparked a new great age of the diamond.<br />

Th e message, now as then, is clear: Harry Winston jewellery is<br />

all about the stone. To prove the point, the highlight of last year’s<br />

Court of Jewels was the legendary blue Hope Diamond, famed<br />

for its supposed curse, and for its colourful journey through<br />

history, from the Indian mines of Golconda to the Court of Louis<br />

XIV, and later to Cartier and the ill-fated heiress Evalyn Walsh<br />

McClean, and fi nally into the hands of Harry Winston. For the<br />

recreated Court of Jewels, the Hope made a rare appearance in<br />

New York, at the Winston salon, in its new lyrical entwined ribbon<br />

setting, of white diamond baguettes, Embracing Hope, chosen<br />

from three options by the American public.<br />

Th e Hope will be shown in the new setting at the Smithsonian<br />

Museum, Washington, its permanent home, having been gifted<br />

to the nation by Harry Winston in 1958. At the end of this year,<br />

the Hope will be removed and replaced by another stone and the<br />

necklace sold to benefi t the new Harry Winston Hope Foundation,<br />

aiding education and philanthropic initiatives. Alongside the Hope,<br />

highlights of the Court of Jewels included the 71.73 carat Lesotho<br />

I diamond, the Star of Bengal ruby, a rare 66.40 carat Paraiba<br />

tourmaline and diamond necklace, a 15 carat D Flawless diamond<br />

briolette, and a superlative 30 carat Kashmir sapphire ring.<br />

No one understands the compelling beauty of gems like<br />

Laurence Graff , founder of the House of Graff . For Graff ,<br />

fabulous jewels are and have always been all about the stone,<br />

and he has always shown a single-minded dedication to creating<br />

jewels that allow his hand-selected gems to shine, pure and<br />

perfect. Th is year, the House of Graff adds the Graff Pink<br />

to the long list of historic stones that have passed through<br />

Laurence Graff ’s hands. Th e Graff Pink is a limpid, lustrous<br />

pink diamond of 23.88 carats, bought for a record price<br />

last autumn at Sotheby’s in Geneva and now subtly<br />

repolished to perfect its clarity and enhance the colour,<br />

PRIVATJEWELS<br />

Seventy-One


PRIVATJEWELS<br />

Seventy-Two<br />

Left: 282 carat pink sapphire and<br />

8.5 carat diamond white and rose<br />

gold bracelet by Chopard.<br />

Below left: emerald and diamond<br />

earrings by Graff and emerald and<br />

diamond necklace by Moussaieff<br />

from intense to vivid (the top colour grade), set into a pink gold<br />

and white diamond ring. Th is delectable, deeply emotive stone<br />

is emblematic of today’s unrelenting quest by gem connoisseurs<br />

for the truly unique. To add to its allure, the Graff Pink is type<br />

IIA, the classifi cation given to diamonds from the ancient<br />

famous and fabled Golconda mines in India. Graff talks of the<br />

diamond’s unique natural beauty, the breathtaking intensity of<br />

the sugar pink saturation that he dared to enhance to reach the<br />

absolute perfection he always craves; he believes it is the fi nest<br />

pink diamond he has ever seen.<br />

Leviev, with boutiques in London, New York, Moscow,<br />

Dubai and Singapore, off ers some of the world’s rarest and<br />

most stupendous diamonds, with a speciality of exquisitely<br />

refi ned coloured diamonds and extraordinary white diamonds,<br />

always D Flawless, mostly over 10 carats, exceedingly rare and,<br />

according to Leviev, getting rarer all the time. Leviev mines<br />

and manufacturers a sizeable chunk of the world’s diamond<br />

supplies, and takes the top one per cent of stones for its own<br />

brand. Th e investment element in such stones is, they say, a given.<br />

Th e stones are composed into contemporary classic designs, the<br />

coloured diamonds often clustered into audacious multicoloured<br />

compositions: a fl oral cluster ring, centred on a fancy vivid<br />

orange heart-shaped diamond of 1.08 carats, surrounded by<br />

seven pear- and marquise-cut coloured diamonds of diff erent<br />

hues, pink, yellow and blue. A pair of 11 carat fancy intense pink<br />

pear-shaped diamonds, of 5.61 and 5.29 carats are hung from<br />

square emerald cut white diamonds, each over two carats, to<br />

create a staggering pair of drop earrings.<br />

For Alisa Moussaieff , of Moussaieff Jewellers of London<br />

and Geneva, the diamond or coloured stone is always the<br />

starting point. She is known as one of the leading diamond<br />

dealers in the world, but superb coloured stones, and especially<br />

emeralds, also share the diamond’s limelight in her most recent<br />

creations. One of the latest compositions, a dramatic necklace,<br />

follows the silhouettes of a river of drop-shaped emeralds,<br />

cradling each divinely coloured stone in an undulating wave of<br />

pavé diamonds, hung at the side with a lush tassel of briolette<br />

diamonds and emerald drops; the necklace is set with a total of<br />

166.64 carats of emeralds and 134.01 carats of diamonds.<br />

Today, high jewellery is all about the stone: the stone as hero,<br />

investment and inspiration; it’s about the quest for the ultimate<br />

rarity, the ultimate possession. As Robert Procop says, it’s the<br />

ultimate treasure hunt. s


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<strong>THE</strong> STYLISH WAY TO SHOP<br />

VERSACE��CAVALLI��DOLCE�&�GABBANA��MISSONI��<br />

Calvin Klein, Aspesi, Trussardi… the list of brands available<br />

at McArthurGlen Designer Outlets reads like a who’s who of<br />

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A�WHIRL�OF�A�TIME<br />

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IN�AUSTRIA<br />

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IN�ITALY<br />

Florence and Tuscany:<br />

Inspired by the architecture<br />

of the noble Renaissance villas<br />

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Designer Outlet is only 30<br />

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Designer Outlet with its<br />

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it is also easily reached from<br />

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world, Castel Romano Designer<br />

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of the Tyrrhenian Sea.<br />

600 designer brands, including some of fashion’s biggest names:<br />

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LA�DOLCE�VITA<br />

Home to some of fashion’s most revered designers, Italy is<br />

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outlets: Naples, Milan, Rome, Florence and Venice,<br />

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ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE


DUTCH�DELIGHT<br />

Meanwhile for those travelling in the Netherlands, the Roermond<br />

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GETTING�<strong>THE</strong>RE<br />

All the shopping centres – McArthurGlen has 20 Designer<br />

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For more information on how to get to a McArthurGlen Designer Outlet<br />

and what is on off er at each centre, visit mcarthurglen.com<br />

WHERE�TO�SHOP<br />

AUSTRIA<br />

Designer Outlet Salzburg<br />

1 Kasernenstrasse, Wals-Himmelreich, Salzburg<br />

Designer Outlet Parndorf<br />

Designer Outlet Straße 1, Parndorf<br />

BELGIUM<br />

McArthurGlen Luxembourg<br />

199 Route d’Arlon, Messancy<br />

FRANCE<br />

McArthurGlen Roubaix<br />

44 Mail de Lannoy, Roubaix<br />

McArthurGlen Troyes<br />

Voie du Bois, Pont de Sainte Marie<br />

GERMANY<br />

Designer Outlet Berlin<br />

1 Alter Spandauer Weg, Wustermark, OT Elstal<br />

GREECE<br />

McArthurGlen Athens<br />

Building Block E71, Yalou, 19004 Spata<br />

ITALY<br />

Barberino Designer Outlet<br />

Via Meucci, Firenze, Barberino del Mugello, Florence<br />

Castel Romano Designer Outlet<br />

64 Via Ponte di Piscina Cupa, Castel Romano, Rome<br />

La Reggia Designer Outlet<br />

Strada Provinciale 336, Ex SS Sannitica,<br />

Marcianise, Naples<br />

Serravalle Designer Outlet<br />

1 Via della Moda, Serravalle Scrivia, Milan<br />

Veneto Designer Outlet<br />

Via Marco Polo 1, Noventa di Piave, Venice<br />

NE<strong>THE</strong>RLANDS<br />

Designer Outlet Roermond<br />

2 Stadsweide, TD Roermond<br />

UK<br />

Ashford Designer Outlet<br />

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Bridgend Designer Outlet<br />

Th e Derwen, Bridgend, South Wales<br />

Cheshire Oaks Designer Outlet<br />

Kinsey Road, Ellesmere Port, South Wirral<br />

East Midlands Designer Outlet<br />

Mansfi eld Road, South Normanton, Derbyshire<br />

Livingston Designer Outlet<br />

Almondvale Avenue, Livingston, West Lothian<br />

Swindon Designer Outlet<br />

Kemble Drive, Swindon, Wiltshire<br />

York Designer Outlet<br />

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R E P E T I T I O N M I N U T E S<br />

W W W . B A D O L L E T . C O M


PRIVATAIR<br />

A passion for our planet has inspired one of <strong>PrivatAir</strong>’s pilots, and, as Charlotte Pénet<br />

discovers, the airline is supporting his mission to raise awareness of climate change<br />

WHEN�<strong>THE</strong>�AVIATION�INDUSTRY�DECIDES�TO�FOCUS�<br />

on the environmental issue of climate change, one might not<br />

be blamed for wanting to fl ag the hint of a paradox. After<br />

all, air transport currently represents two per cent of manmade<br />

CO 2 emissions, according to the latest fi gures from the<br />

Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change. But some issues are<br />

too big to allow room for procrastination. Sometimes the only way<br />

forward is to open one’s mind, take the optimist’s view that every<br />

problem is an opportunity for a solution, and be inspired.<br />

Th is article is the story of one optimist, who was inspired to fi nd<br />

solutions on a local scale to a global problem that he just couldn’t ignore.<br />

It’s the story of myblueplanet, an organisation that is working its way<br />

into public consciousness across the whole of Switzerland, motivating<br />

people on a local level, on a daily basis, to reduce their CO 2 emissions.<br />

As a child, Daniel Lüscher, the founder of myblueplanet,<br />

always dreamed of being a pilot, inspired by his uncle, who worked<br />

for Swissair. Th ere are some people who need nothing more than<br />

that moment of inspiration to establish their goals; their drive and<br />

positive attitude does all the rest, propelling them to their<br />

SKY-BLUE GREEN<br />

Seventy-Nine<br />

destination. Well, if positive attitude were a form of energy that<br />

could be stored and used, Lüscher would be a very reliable source.<br />

He became a pilot in 1996 and currently works for <strong>PrivatAir</strong>.<br />

First mission accomplished, he was ready for new goals.<br />

From his seat in the cockpit, over the years Lüscher watched with<br />

growing concern the manifestations of climate change occurring<br />

down on the ground. Th e most noticeable and visible change was<br />

the ever-diminishing amount of snow cover. For a man who grew<br />

up spending all his winter evenings out on skis with friends, in the<br />

countryside near the small town of Appenzell, this change struck<br />

a chord. Over time he saw the snow cap shrink on the peak of<br />

Mount Kilimanjaro in Africa. He watched the ice gradually melt<br />

around the southern tip of Greenland. Th e red lights of climate<br />

change were fl ashing at him from all sides. A pilot is trained to<br />

assess risk and to change course immediately in the face of danger<br />

or even the possibility of danger. Faced with the view of a world<br />

teetering off balance, Lüscher simply had to act.<br />

Th e moment of no turning back came on a stopover in New<br />

York, when he saw the Al Gore documentary on global warming,


An Inconvenient Truth. He was already<br />

attuned to the message. What hit home were<br />

the undeniable facts, and the call to action.<br />

He decided his own fi rst step towards change<br />

had to be big. He decided that a fi lm that was<br />

so convincing about the need to change our<br />

ways should be seen by as many people as<br />

possible. He had found the idea for his fi rst<br />

project: to bring An Inconvenient Truth to the<br />

cinema screen in his hometown of<br />

Winterthur for a whole week, for free.<br />

To make it happen, he needed a<br />

structure, some helping hands and minds.<br />

He pulled in three good friends, who<br />

together came up with a name, and<br />

myblueplanet was born. I could mention the<br />

challenges they faced to get that fi rst project<br />

off the ground, the diffi culty in getting funds,<br />

pulling in media interest, ensuring that on<br />

the fi rst day, the cinema would be full. But<br />

when Lüscher tells of the challenges, he talks<br />

about them with his contagious grin and his<br />

boundless energy and it’s easy to understand<br />

how he overcame them. He wasn’t working<br />

alone but every project needs a pilot and you<br />

sense that this pilot had his crew well and<br />

truly motivated. Over the week, 11,000<br />

people (one tenth of Winterthur’s population)<br />

saw An Inconvenient Truth. First mission<br />

for myblueplanet accomplished.<br />

Th e noise generated by this event had a<br />

snowball eff ect. Lüscher received calls from<br />

people interested in participating in<br />

myblueplanet. One was a local businessman<br />

keen to invest, but he needed to see a<br />

business plan. Business plan? You could say<br />

the team was fl ying by the seat of its pants<br />

at this stage. But when you have a group<br />

comprising experts in strategy, marketing<br />

and fi nance, as well as a professor in solar<br />

energy, that can be a productive way to fl y.<br />

Th e business plan was written, funds came<br />

in, two staff were recruited and myblueplanet<br />

started to spin.<br />

‘Th e aim is to show<br />

on a local scale what<br />

is possible on a global<br />

scale. Everyone<br />

involved can see<br />

the direct result<br />

of their efforts’<br />

Th e set-up is simple and eff ective, the<br />

vision is clear. With the www.myblueplanet.ch<br />

website as the platform, a community of<br />

volunteers all working towards the protection<br />

of the environment was established in 2007<br />

and is constantly growing. Th e community is<br />

made up of individuals, companies, cities and<br />

organisations, all managed locally by<br />

‘bluepower teams’. Th ese teams organise<br />

actions that lead to a measurable reduction of<br />

CO 2 levels and increased awareness of<br />

climate change. ‘Th e aim is to show on a local<br />

scale what is possible on a global scale,’ says<br />

Lüscher. Th e clever part is that every person<br />

Eighty<br />

who has signed up to an action and shown<br />

they’ve completed it online, can see in real<br />

terms the actual reduction in CO 2 they’re<br />

directly responsible for. It enables each person<br />

to see that even a single, individual action<br />

makes a diff erence. ‘Everyone is a part of the<br />

solution,’ says Lüscher. ‘Th is is motivation<br />

spelled out in simple numbers. Th e overall<br />

goal is for Switzerland to be the fi rst<br />

industrial nation producing just one ton of<br />

CO 2 per person per year.’<br />

Myblueplanet is a not-for-profi t<br />

organisation, with no political involvement<br />

nor aspirations. Th e reason for this? ‘You<br />

need short answers and easy steps,’ something<br />

politicians and large corporations struggle to<br />

provide, says Lüscher. ‘Nobody has any<br />

personal or fi nancial interest in the venture.<br />

Th is is paramount to generating public trust.’<br />

With the organisation up and running, as<br />

for any business, communication became key.<br />

Explaining to people what can be done to<br />

reduce our impact on the environment is easy,<br />

the challenge lies in getting a reaction. Th e<br />

premise of myblueplanet is to send a positive<br />

message with an element of fun, not a<br />

guilt-inducing one. Imagine sitting on a train<br />

in December and being off ered a gift and a<br />

heartfelt thank-you from a Santa Claus<br />

dressed in blue, simply because you are using<br />

public transport. Th e people of Basel, Zurich<br />

and Winterthur have already experienced<br />

such a treat. Eva, the Swiss national<br />

newspaper cartoon character, is a corporate<br />

volunteer for myblueplanet. Every month her<br />

IMAGES�©�WWW�MYBLUEPLANET�CH


action plan is distributed across the blue cities<br />

via fl yers. People take the fl yer, complete the<br />

action and register the impact on the website.<br />

Th e success and the eff ectiveness of<br />

myblueplanet projects are evidence of the<br />

sound business minds working behind the<br />

scenes. Every action is handled with true<br />

professionalism: the idea is clever, the<br />

communication has impact, the logistics are<br />

fl awless, the action required from individuals<br />

is simple and fun. Th e momentum for<br />

myblueplanet is there. Th e motivation<br />

among the team is unwavering. And the<br />

fi gure on the site showing CO 2 reduction is<br />

going up and up. Plans are to translate the<br />

website into French, Italian and English, to<br />

reach all the cantons and people of<br />

Switzerland. It’s becoming a household<br />

name. When IBM in Switzerland were<br />

planning how to celebrate their 100th<br />

birthday, they chose myblueplanet as their<br />

partner. Th ey will be planting 50 trees in<br />

Zurich. Th e mission is ongoing.<br />

When the time burden of running such<br />

a project in parallel with a full-time job and<br />

a family life became unworkable, Lüscher<br />

spoke to Greg Th omas, the president and<br />

CEO of <strong>PrivatAir</strong>. Th e company’s contribution<br />

to myblueplanet is to allow Lüscher<br />

one week a month to focus on the project,<br />

with no reduction in pay. It’s no surprise<br />

then to hear Lüscher state in all honesty<br />

that he is proud to work for <strong>PrivatAir</strong>, who<br />

provide an outstanding example of<br />

corporate volunteering.<br />

As for the fact that Lüscher is a pilot,<br />

thus working for an industry that could be<br />

said to trivialise all his personal eff orts for<br />

CO 2 reduction, his take is, as ever, a positive<br />

one. He uses his job and his knowledge to<br />

make a diff erence in the air as well, where<br />

the potential for making an impact is<br />

signifi cant. Th ere are a number of ways to<br />

reduce the CO 2 burden of a fl ight: better use<br />

of tail wind, requesting the optimum fl ight<br />

altitude, shorter itineraries, better calculation<br />

of fuel needs and a reduction of excess<br />

on board, to name a few. He communicates<br />

this message among pilots and industry<br />

players and his myblueplanet credentials<br />

ensure that people listen.<br />

When faced with the undeniable reality<br />

of a world careering off balance, promising a<br />

future of uncertainty for our children and<br />

grandchildren, reactions vary. Th ere are those<br />

in denial, those who veer towards despair,<br />

then there are the cynics who decide that<br />

there’s no point in any individual doing<br />

anything about it. And then there are those<br />

like Lüscher: the optimists, the people of<br />

action, who just get on and take a fi rst step<br />

towards change, however big or small. His<br />

latest mission is one that probably has no<br />

end, because the overall outcome on the issue<br />

of global climate change cannot lie in the<br />

hands of one person. However the inspiration<br />

myblueplanet generates is immeasurable.<br />

Who knows how far it will go, who it will<br />

reach… Are you inspired? ‘We are all a part<br />

of the solution,’ says Lüscher.<br />

Eighty-One<br />

Previous page:<br />

Daniel Lüscher, the<br />

<strong>PrivatAir</strong> pilot who<br />

founded myblueplanet.<br />

This page from left<br />

to right: apprentices<br />

who combined fun with<br />

education at a two-day<br />

climate camp; swap your<br />

car for a bike to help<br />

cut carbon emissions;<br />

Graziella Rogers,<br />

Miss Earth Schweiz<br />

2009, plants a tree for<br />

myblueplanet<br />

�����HIGHLIGHTS<br />

BIKE�FOR�CAR<br />

For one month, in exchange for<br />

their car keys, the people of 12<br />

cities across Switzerland get the<br />

free use of an e-bike. When 80<br />

people in Winterthur did it, fi ve<br />

sold their cars. The result just there<br />

was a CO reduction of 17 tons.<br />

2<br />

EVERY�CELL�COUNTS�<br />

On the myblueplanet website you<br />

can buy one or a number of solar<br />

cells that all add up towards the<br />

installation of solar panels in<br />

schools. The contractor doubles<br />

the amount raised. The revenue<br />

from excess energy is used for<br />

school environmental projects.<br />

CAMPS�FOR�APPRENTICES<br />

For two days, employers release<br />

the apprentices among their<br />

staff , who come and learn for<br />

free how to introduce green<br />

projects into their company.<br />

PLANT�A�TREE�FOR�<strong>THE</strong>�PLANET�<br />

Users of the website can click on<br />

a map to off er up space for a<br />

tree to be planted or can<br />

purchase a tree. Once those two<br />

steps are complete, the tree is<br />

delivered for free by the Post<br />

Offi ce and planted. The aim is for<br />

100,000 trees in 10 years.


<strong>PrivatAir</strong><br />

– for high fl yers<br />

PRIVATAIR�HAS�BEEN at<br />

the forefront of private aviation<br />

for over 30 years, providing<br />

the world’s most demanding<br />

travellers with a comprehensive<br />

range of capabilities, delivered<br />

to the very highest standards of<br />

safety and personal service.<br />

Since its creation in 1977,<br />

the company has grown from<br />

being the corporate aircraft<br />

fl eet of the Latsis Group,<br />

a global conglomerate, to a<br />

world-renowned full-service<br />

commercial aviation operator.<br />

Today, <strong>PrivatAir</strong> is one<br />

of the private aviation<br />

industry’s longest-standing<br />

and most prestigious operators.<br />

Its global operations include<br />

both jet charter and private<br />

airline services.<br />

PRIVATE CHARTER<br />

<strong>PrivatAir</strong>’s charter services enable<br />

you to travel in total privacy,<br />

into and out of more than 5,000<br />

airports around the world. For<br />

over 30 years, the company has set<br />

the industry standard in operating<br />

aircraft of the highest quality and<br />

providing outstanding levels of<br />

service to our customers.<br />

Whether it’s chartering a<br />

Beechcraft 200 for a weekend<br />

family shopping break, or a<br />

PRIVATAIR<br />

PRIVATAIR<br />

Offering jet charter and private airline services, <strong>PrivatAir</strong> has been a<br />

leader in the field of luxury aviation for more than three decades<br />

Eighty-Two<br />

50-seat VIP-confi gured airliner<br />

for a three-week, round-the-world<br />

trip, <strong>PrivatAir</strong> off ers unrivalled<br />

international coverage, sourcing<br />

the best aircraft to match each<br />

passenger’s individual requirements.<br />

As such, our services are regularly<br />

sought by governments, royalty,<br />

celebrities and business executives<br />

the world over.<br />

PRIVATE AIRLINE SERVICES<br />

After pioneering the all-businessclass<br />

concept in 2002, <strong>PrivatAir</strong><br />

now operates fl ights on behalf of a<br />

select number of commercial airlines<br />

who wish to off er their customers<br />

an exclusive service on key routes.<br />

<strong>PrivatAir</strong> also provides regularly<br />

scheduled corporate shuttle fl ights<br />

for companies that frequently need<br />

to send their employees or clients to<br />

specifi c destinations.<br />

SUPERIOR SAFETY<br />

AND SECURITY<br />

We operate to the most stringent<br />

standards of safety and security, far<br />

exceeding industry requirements.<br />

In 1998, <strong>PrivatAir</strong> became Europe’s<br />

fi rst airline whose quality system<br />

fulfi lled the IS0 9002 certifi cation<br />

standards for all its services; six<br />

years later we were the fi rst business<br />

aviation company awarded the<br />

prestigious IOSA certifi cation, the<br />

fi rst internationally recognised audit<br />

standards for safety. Th e company<br />

has also been awarded ETOPS 180<br />

minutes and FAA 129 Foreign Carrier<br />

approval, allowing us to off er the<br />

most direct routes across the Atlantic<br />

and Pacifi c Oceans, and unlimited<br />

operations to the US. <strong>PrivatAir</strong> is<br />

still one of only a handful of ad hoc<br />

commercial charter operators in the<br />

world with all these approvals.


A RACING MACHINE ON <strong>THE</strong> WRIST<br />

www.richardmille.com<br />

wolkoff-arnodin.com<br />

CALIBER RM 025<br />

CHRONOGRAPH DIVER’S WATCH<br />

Manual winding tourbillon movement<br />

Carbon nanofiber baseplate<br />

Chronograph (Column wheel in titanium)<br />

Power reserve : circa 50 hours<br />

Torque indicator<br />

Power reserve indicator<br />

Function indicator<br />

Variable inertia, free sprung balance with overcoil<br />

New in-line escapement design<br />

Fast rotating barrel<br />

(6 hours per revolution instead of 7.5 hours)<br />

Winding barrel teeth and third-wheel pinion<br />

with central involute profile<br />

Barrel pawl with progressive recoil<br />

Modular time setting mechanism fitted against the case back<br />

Torque limiting crown<br />

Wheel based time setting system (back of the movement)<br />

Closure of the barrel cover using excentric screws<br />

Spline screws in grade 5 titanium for the bridges and case<br />

Bezel turning unidirectionally following ISO 6425 norm<br />

300 meter water resistant case in titanium and red gold


ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE<br />

CHRONOGRAPH<br />

LE BRASSUS (VALLÉE DE JOUX) - SWITZERLAND - audemarspiguet.com

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