THE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2011 - PrivatAir
THE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2011 - PrivatAir
THE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2011 - PrivatAir
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<strong>SUMMER</strong> <strong>2011</strong><br />
<strong>THE</strong> <strong>MAGAZINE</strong>
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IN�THIS�ISSUE<br />
PRIVATFASHION<br />
Orientalism is all the rage this season.<br />
See the pick of the souk shot at Istanbul’s<br />
exquisite Hotel Les Ottomans<br />
��
Hiss and hers<br />
jewellery, page 68<br />
<strong>SUMMER</strong> <strong>2011</strong><br />
<strong>THE</strong> <strong>MAGAZINE</strong><br />
Cover: albino snake<br />
shot by John Ross<br />
Meet the inhabitants of the<br />
Antarctic on page 50<br />
Eight<br />
PRIVATARTS ��<br />
Rory Ross looks forward to the opening of<br />
the restored Bolshoi Th eatre in Moscow<br />
PRIVATBOOK ��<br />
Huon Mallalieu marvels at the skills that<br />
make the Highgrove Florilegium a triumph<br />
PRIVATCOLLECTOR� ���<br />
Huon Mallalieu looks at two works of art<br />
preserved for the public by individuals<br />
PRIVATSELECTION� ��<br />
Keith W Strandberg reviews the latest<br />
watches on show at BaselWorld<br />
PRIVATDRIVE ��<br />
Charles Armstrong-Wilson visits Brabus,<br />
famous for transforming your Mercedes<br />
PRIVATDINING ��<br />
Jennifer Sharp chooses her favourite<br />
summer restaurants in Spain and Portugal<br />
PRIVATPERSON ��<br />
Sophy Roberts talks to Charlie Mayhew,<br />
founder of conservation charity Tusk<br />
PRIVATESCAPE� ��<br />
Catherine Sabino focuses on Sagaponack,<br />
the Hamptons’ chicest village<br />
PRIVATTRAVEL ��<br />
John Rendall voyages south to the wilds of<br />
Antarctica, pristine but under threat<br />
PRIVATRESORT ��<br />
Celestria Noel reviews Maradiva, a locally<br />
owned all-villa property in Mauritius<br />
PRIVATJEWELS ��<br />
Vivienne Becker says that big is beautiful<br />
when it comes to glorious gemstones<br />
PRIVATAIR ��<br />
News and developments from the world’s<br />
most exclusive airline
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AVIATIONCOLLECTION<br />
Introducing the Alpina Startimer Pilot timepieces.<br />
A collection of limited editions, developed<br />
in close collaboration with Cessna Aircraft and <strong>PrivatAir</strong>.
FROM�<strong>THE</strong>�EDITOR<br />
Individual attention<br />
A question we must all have asked ourselves at one time is:<br />
what can I do about it? I am only one person. However the<br />
actions of an individual can be very signifi cant, and there<br />
are some inspiring examples to be found in this issue of<br />
<strong>PrivatAir</strong> the Magazine. Take Charlie Mayhew. As a<br />
student he fell in love with African wildlife but was<br />
horrifi ed by the activities of poachers and their eff ect on<br />
rhino and elephant in particular. He had no special<br />
qualifi cations or connections but knew he personally would<br />
have to do something. Th e result was Tusk, well known<br />
internationally today and supported by, among others,<br />
Prince William of Wales, now Duke of Cambridge.<br />
As it happens, John Rendall, who writes here about<br />
Antarctica, is no stranger to the charity’s work. He has<br />
supported conservation in Africa since his hero, George<br />
Adamson, rehabilitated Rendall’s own pet lion, Christian.<br />
However in this issue he has moved south from Africa<br />
and is hoping to draw our attention to the less well<br />
understood fragility of Antarctic ecosystem. His aim will<br />
ring a bell with <strong>PrivatAir</strong> pilot Daniel Lüscher, who,<br />
partly because he could actually look down and see snow<br />
and ice receding as he went about his work, knew he<br />
JOHN�RENDALL<br />
Rendall is the co-author of Christian<br />
the Lion, the international bestseller<br />
about a cub raised in Chelsea and<br />
later released in Kenya. Rendall is a<br />
trustee of the George Adamson<br />
Wildlife Preservation Trust which<br />
funds and administers the Mkomazi<br />
National Park in Tanzania and Kora<br />
National Park in Kenya. He lives in<br />
London and his native Sydney.<br />
CONTRIBUTORS<br />
JOHN�ROSS<br />
Born in Malta and now based in<br />
London, John has been shooting<br />
famous brands in glamorous<br />
locations for over two decades.<br />
He recently worked for Yamaha<br />
in Milan, went to South Africa to<br />
shoot a TDK campaign and shot the<br />
cover for the latest Pet Shop Boys<br />
album, Disco 4. He is the recipient<br />
of numerous media-industry awards.<br />
PRIVATCONTRIBUTORS<br />
needed to act. He went on to set up the organisation<br />
myblueplanet in his home country, Switzerland. Its<br />
message is that each of us must act now in our own daily<br />
lives to help save the world. Again, like Charlie Mayhew,<br />
he had no training and no great resources apart from his<br />
own energy and passionate conviction, but is being<br />
supported in his work by <strong>PrivatAir</strong>, who allow him the<br />
time off to work on the project.<br />
Other outstanding examples of individuals making a<br />
diff erence can be found in the art world. Nicholas and<br />
Athena Karabots in America and Jonathan Ruff er in<br />
Britain are examples of successful individuals deploying<br />
private resources in a positive manner for the sake of art<br />
and posterity. Finally we come to the Prince of Wales<br />
himself. Th e beautiful Highgrove Florilegium, a book<br />
which has now been completed after many years in the<br />
making, supports individual botanical artists, bookbinders<br />
and craftsmen but also champions the wild and garden<br />
fl owers the Prince loves, while supporting his Charities<br />
Foundation. Most copies will go to museums but<br />
individuals can buy the few that are left. Or why not just<br />
plant some wildfl owers yourself? CELESTRIA�NOEL<br />
Ten<br />
HUON�MALLALIEU�<br />
Having begun his career at<br />
Christie’s he went on to author The<br />
Dictionary of British Watercolour<br />
Artists, Understanding Watercolours,<br />
The Illustrated History of Antiques,<br />
and more recently, 1066 and Rather<br />
More: a Walk through History. A<br />
well-known art market journalist, he<br />
writes for The Times and has a<br />
weekly column in Country Life.<br />
<strong>SUMMER</strong>�����<br />
EDITOR<br />
Celestria Noel<br />
DESIGN�DIRECTOR�<br />
Julia Murray<br />
DESIGNER�<br />
Wil Griffi ths<br />
PHOTOGRAPHY�DIRECTOR�<br />
Alex Ortiz<br />
PICTURE�EDITOR�<br />
Patrick Llewellyn<br />
SUB-EDITOR<br />
Steve Handley<br />
PRODUCTION�MANAGER<br />
Antonia Ferraro<br />
REPROGRAPHICS<br />
KFR Reprographics<br />
PRINTING<br />
Taylor Bloxham<br />
LOGISTICS<br />
www.goferslogistics.com<br />
GROUP�PUBLISHING�<br />
DIRECTOR<br />
Angus Urquhart<br />
CREATIVE�DIRECTOR�<br />
Michael Keating<br />
PUBLISHING�DIRECTOR�<br />
Simon Leslie<br />
CHIEF�OPERATING�OFFICER�<br />
Hugh Godsal<br />
CHIEF�EXECUTIVE<br />
Jeff rey O’Rourke<br />
PUBLISHED�BY<br />
Ink, www.ink-global.com<br />
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© Ink. All material is strictly copyright and all<br />
rights are reserved. Reproduction in whole or part<br />
is prohibited without prior permission from the<br />
publisher. Opinions expressed in <strong>PrivatAir</strong> the<br />
Magazine are not necessarily those of <strong>PrivatAir</strong><br />
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PRIVATARTS<br />
Big product ion<br />
Th e renovation of the Bolshoi Th eatre in Moscow has<br />
been a long tale of pain and woe but this autumn the<br />
theatre will reopen at last, says Rory Ross<br />
Twelve
IMAGES�©�GETTY<br />
ROWS��RESIGNATIONS��ACRIMONY��MUD-SLINGING��BAD�<br />
blood, deadlocks, accusations of embezzlement and fraud… it could<br />
only happen in opera. In Moscow, however, it has been happening in the<br />
opera house. Th e delays, alarming fi nancial haemorrhages, walk-outs and<br />
rows that have bedevilled the restoration of the Bolshoi theatre in central<br />
Moscow have appalled, amused and generally held Muscovites in thrall<br />
for much of the last six years. Add in a star cast of towering artistic egos,<br />
numerous spins of the Russian manic-depressive cycle, a scandal over an<br />
erotic picture, allegedly showing someone resembling the director of the<br />
Bolshoi ballet troupe, and lashings of vodka, and you have the makings of<br />
an opera plot that Tchaikovsky would have hardly dared dream of. Th ree<br />
years behind schedule and some 16 times over budget at $760m – much of<br />
it state money – the Bolshoi theatre fi nally reopens this October.<br />
A grandiose, porticoed 19th-century building that resembles an<br />
accident between a Rolls-Royce and a large wedding cake, the Bolshoi is<br />
located in central Moscow and was where Tchaikovsky’s ballet Swan Lake<br />
was premiered in 1877. It has been crying out for restoration for decades.<br />
Originally built in 1825, the acoustics of the theatre had been impaired by<br />
Thirteen<br />
a sequence of botched cowboy renovations, which included concreting up<br />
the orchestra’s barrel-shaped resonator sound box, tantamount to a<br />
desecration. Th e present restoration is intended as an acoustic<br />
rehabilitation. As Anatoly Iksanov, the Bolshoi’s director general, said in<br />
2004 when announcing the restoration: ‘Th e theatre has suff ered a lot since<br />
they started replacing wooden structures with concrete ones.’<br />
Th ere was talk of renovating the state-backed theatre as long ago as<br />
the 1980s, but lack of money failed to translate words into deeds.<br />
Furthermore, reaching a consensus on what actually should be done to<br />
the theatre meant that paralysis set in, while the building itself began to<br />
sink into its perennially muddy foundations. Th en in 2005, the Russian<br />
government knocked heads together, and decreed that it would be<br />
restored. Th e 2,200-seater Bolshoi Main Stage closed in July 2005.<br />
Opera and ballet performances were relocated to the smaller New Stage<br />
next door, which seats 900.<br />
Th e entire restoration project, which embraces the Bolshoi’s<br />
collection of decorative art items, antique furniture, costumes and<br />
production sketches by outstanding Russian theatre designers, which had
IMAGE�©�GETTY<br />
Previous page: the Bolshoi<br />
Th eatre outside and in.<br />
Above: gilders are among the<br />
many artisans who have worked<br />
on the lengthy restoration<br />
PRIVATARTS<br />
been amassed over the Bolshoi’s 230-year history, was<br />
originally meant to take three years. However, by the time<br />
the fully restored theatre reopens on 28 October this year,<br />
it will have taken more than six years to complete.<br />
Outside, the succession of shoddy paint jobs that<br />
marred the building’s faded pink facade have been eff aced;<br />
the architectural details have been resculpted; the<br />
imposing white columns at the front of the building,<br />
which leaned over by a tipsy 20cm, have been returned to<br />
the upright; and damage caused by a German bombing<br />
raid in 1941 has fi nally been repaired. Inside, the original<br />
19th-century design and look of the violin-shaped theatre<br />
has been rediscovered. Th e orchestra has been expanded;<br />
now, the operatic repertoire can encompass ‘most of<br />
Wagner and some of Richard Strauss,’ says Vyacheslav<br />
Yefi mov, associate director general. For the fi rst time, the<br />
Bolshoi will have two separate fl oor surfaces for ballet and<br />
opera – ballet requires sound-absorbency and a bit of give<br />
underfoot; opera requires the opposite. Meanwhile,<br />
backstage, out have gone the mouldy walls and peeling<br />
plaster that greeted dancers as they warmed up, in have<br />
come spacious modern amenities and improved<br />
technology that allows safe, swift, complex set changes.<br />
Th e Bolshoi’s payroll has been trimmed from 2,000 to<br />
a number more aligned with rival opera houses (La Scala<br />
in Milan employs 800). Meanwhile, the fundamental<br />
Fifteen<br />
problems caused by the unstable structural foundations<br />
compounded by woes brought about when Moscow’s<br />
metro system was built in the 1930s, have been addressed.<br />
Conservatives are up in arms that the Bolshoi’s<br />
antique charms, poor acoustics and pulley-lowered sets are<br />
being swept away in tide of modernisation that amounts to<br />
‘cultural barbarism’, never mind that much of the backstage<br />
apparatus was considered a health risk. Others are looking<br />
forward to a spacious, comfortable high-tech theatre<br />
where the latest lighting, electronic and hydraulic devices<br />
are concealed beneath a facade of red velvet, gold inlay,<br />
hand-embroidered silk tapestries and restored tsarist<br />
insignia, that will restore Moscow’s reputation as a centre<br />
for the performing arts.<br />
One of the fi rst productions will be Tchaikovsky’s Th e<br />
Sleeping Beauty, in a revival by Yuri Grigorovich (fi rst<br />
night 18 November) with new sets by Ezio Frigerio, the<br />
Italian theatre designer who designed Rudolf Nureyev’s<br />
tomb. Credit Suisse is the Bolshoi Th eatre’s general<br />
sponsor, while Audemars Piguet, the Swiss watch<br />
manufacturer, is offi cial sponsor: it has been a long haul for<br />
them too. Moscow has seen a number of recent artistic<br />
landmarks: the Winzavod centre for contemporary arts,<br />
the Red October chocolate factory and CCC Moscow<br />
have helped make it a thriving cultural entrepot. Now it is<br />
the turn of the Bolshoi to play its part at last.
PRIVATBOOK<br />
If developing a garden requires patience,<br />
the making of a book about its plants can be<br />
an even longer task but, as Huon Mallalieu<br />
discovers, Th e Highgrove Florilegium<br />
is worth the wait<br />
Sixteen
WHEN�NOT�UNDER�PRESSURE�TO�PRODUCE�INSTANT�BOOKS��<br />
writers often suff er the opposite frustration – at the length of time publishers<br />
can take in bringing their masterworks to fruition. However, eight years<br />
from conception to delivery is certainly unusual. In the case of Addison<br />
Publications’ Th e Highgrove Florilegium it is fully justifi ed.<br />
Th e two-volume set of illustrations of plants from the Prince of Wales’<br />
Gloucestershire garden is a work of superlative quality. Th ere are 124 prints by<br />
72 leading botanical artists from around the world, and over 100 British<br />
craftsmen have contributed to the limited edition, of which only 175 copies<br />
Seventeen
ALL�IMAGES�©�AG�CARRICK<br />
Previous page:<br />
Rhododendron basilicum<br />
by Lizzie Sanders.<br />
Right: Jasminum nudifl orum<br />
by Mieko Ishikawa<br />
‘It is rare to find books which<br />
have been given such love and<br />
devotion from st art to finish by<br />
traditional craftsmen’<br />
are for sale at £12,950 per set. (About 30 are<br />
still available). Th e Prince, who wrote the<br />
preface and holds set 1 of 175, has signed<br />
each numbered set. All royalties from Th e<br />
Highgrove Florilegium are donated to the<br />
Prince’s Charities Foundation. Th e<br />
painstaking production involved gardeners,<br />
botanists, artists, typographers, leather dyers,<br />
marblers, printers, binders and felters, and it<br />
took over six months of their combined<br />
eff orts to print, bind and fi nish each book.<br />
Instead of the standard four-colour process<br />
used in nearly all printing, the Florilegium<br />
makes use of eight basic inks plus special<br />
colours; it is hugely costly. Also heavy. Th e<br />
two volumes together weigh about 25kg and<br />
are more than two feet tall and one and a<br />
half feet wide.<br />
Henrietta Pearson of Addison<br />
Publications, who pride themselves on<br />
producing ‘slow books’ in the spirit of the slow<br />
food movement, comments: ‘In this<br />
throwaway, digital age, it is increasingly rare to<br />
fi nd books which have been given such love<br />
and devotion from start to fi nish by traditional<br />
craftsmen. We are proud to be able to use the<br />
best of Britain’s traditional book craftsmen to<br />
produce our publications at a time when the<br />
talk is more of e-books than embossing.’<br />
Th e Highgrove Florilegium is the latest of<br />
several titles that boast the same painstaking<br />
process to create limited editions of<br />
important, rare and sometimes ancient<br />
manuscripts. Addison’s books, which include<br />
Th e Book of Kells and Th e Lindisfarne Gospels<br />
are now collectors’ items in their own right,<br />
PRIVATBOOK<br />
Nineteen
Right: Brassica<br />
oleracea by Flappy<br />
Lane Fox.<br />
Below: the<br />
Prince of Wales at<br />
Highgrove, among<br />
the fl owers<br />
Th e Prince of Wales has<br />
signed each numbered set.<br />
All royalties from the book<br />
are donated to the Prince’s<br />
Charities Foundation<br />
found in libraries and museums all over the world.<br />
A copy of this book is at the Chicago Botanic Gardens<br />
in the Lenhardt Library’s Rare Book Reading Room in<br />
the Regenstein Center and can be viewed by<br />
appointment. Only four other copies are available in<br />
libraries in the United States. Th e volumes will also be<br />
on public display in a rare book exhibition in the<br />
Lenhardt Library from 18 November to 12 February,<br />
2012. Th e original watercolours, which belong to the<br />
Prince of Wales, have been exhibited in Europe and the<br />
USA but the fi nal opportunity to see them will be<br />
from 17 September to 31 December this year at the<br />
Guernsey Museum in the Channel Islands.<br />
PRIVATBOOK<br />
Twenty
www.jean-mairetgillman.com<br />
GENEVA: T +41 22 703 4020 � LONDON: T +44 207 602 4422 � Model featured: HORA MUNDI III
PRIVATCOLLECTOR<br />
Th e art of philanthropy<br />
Protecting and safeguarding works of art is one way the<br />
actions of a wealthy individual can make an enormous<br />
diff erence. Huon Mallalieu looks at two recent examples<br />
Twenty-Two
IMAGE�©�PHILADELPHIA�MUSEUM�OF�ART<br />
MANY�OF�<strong>THE</strong>�WORLD’S�GREATEST�MUSEUMS�AND�PUBLIC�<br />
art galleries owe their existence to the generosity of individual<br />
benefactors over the last two centuries. It is heartening to fi nd that<br />
nowadays, when there is such a concentration of offi cial resources on<br />
the contemporary, there are still individuals and organisations willing<br />
to safeguard the masterworks of the past. Two recent instances are<br />
particularly encouraging.<br />
In 2009 the Philadelphia Museum of Art proudly unveiled its latest<br />
acquisition, a full set of armour for a horse and its rider, made for Duke<br />
Ulrich of Württemberg at the beginning of the 16th century by two of<br />
the greatest of all the great armourers working in Nuremberg, centre of<br />
the industry. Making the announcement, Timothy Rub, the museum’s<br />
CEO, said: ‘Th e museum has always wanted to have an extraordinary<br />
horse armour to augment our holdings of European arms and armour,<br />
but fi nding one has been an especially elusive quest, given the<br />
exceptional rarity of this type of object.’<br />
Rare indeed. Th e monumental horse armour, created in 1507 by<br />
Wilhelm von Worms the Elder, the most famous armourer of his day, and<br />
entirely made of steel plates enriched with delicately etched and gilded<br />
fi gures of a dragon and noblewomen, is the only example to have become<br />
available in 45 years, and one of only a handful of such an early date still<br />
in existence. Th e accompanying man armour, created around 1505 by<br />
Matthes Deutsch in Landshut, is one of under a dozen complete, or near<br />
complete, fi eld armours of that period to have survived. It is Deutsch’s<br />
latest known work and his most richly decorated.<br />
Th e Philadelphia Museum is one of the largest in the United States,<br />
and accordingly well endowed, but the $7.2m needed to secure the<br />
armours came not from funds but from individuals Athena and Nicholas<br />
Karabots and the Karabots Foundation, who made this acquisition<br />
possible. Nicholas G Karabots is the son of Greek immigrants who<br />
moved to the United States from Sparta shortly after World War I and<br />
ran a successful restaurant business. When this was wiped out, his father<br />
became a waiter and his wife a seamstress, while their son contributed by<br />
working as a shoe-shine boy. Karabots Jnr later got a job with a printing<br />
fi rm and, following the American dream, worked his way up to become<br />
its owner. He then bought one of the fi rm’s best clients, the Kappa<br />
Publishing Group, which specialises in children’s activity books, puzzle<br />
magazines and games. In graceful acknowledgement of his ancestral roots,<br />
he has called his umbrella company Spartan Organization, Inc.<br />
Th e foundation that he set up with his wife also grew out of his early<br />
experiences, since the prime purpose is to better the chances for ‘youth in<br />
underserved communities and families within those communities’.<br />
Twenty-Three<br />
Naturally, reading and education are key to this. Two of the biggest<br />
donations were $15m for a new paediatric care unit at the Children’s<br />
Hospital of Philadelphia, and $4.4m to renovate and expand the William<br />
Jeanes Memorial Library in Whitemarsh Township, PA, where they have<br />
lived for over 50 years. Th eir hope is that it will become ‘an even broader<br />
community centre and are further hopeful that its updating and<br />
expansion will encourage more children and adults to come to learn’.<br />
Surprising as it might seem at fi rst glance, the $15m donated to<br />
purchase the armours does fi t the pattern. As Nicholas Karabots says:<br />
‘Th e Foundation was moved by the interest shown in the Arms and<br />
Armour Collection by children and young adults, and it is the<br />
Foundation’s hope that the addition of the horse and man armour to the<br />
existing collection will result in the development of programmes at the<br />
museum that will further interest and encourage these young people to<br />
pursue higher levels of self-improvement via advanced education.’<br />
Th e deal was actually brokered by an Englishman, Peter Finer, who is<br />
perhaps the world’s foremost dealer in antique arms and armour. Based in<br />
a Warwickshire manor house and a St James’s shop, Finer is a well-known<br />
‘Th e museum has always wanted to have an extraordinary suit of horse<br />
armour but finding one has been an especially elusive quest ’<br />
exhibitor at the most prestigious international antiques fairs, and almost<br />
all serious collectors are on his client list. Th e armours were once part of<br />
the collection of the Counts Breuner-Enckevoirt and subsequently of the<br />
Dukes of Ratibor at Schloss Grafenegg in Austria, where they were<br />
exhibited together as a complete equestrian fi gure. In 1933 they were sold<br />
to the newspaper magnate William Randolph Hearst who, confronted<br />
with fi nancial diffi culties, subsequently parted with them; thereafter the<br />
ensemble remained in private hands until Finer purchased them in 2008.<br />
He had been on their track for years, and was determined that they<br />
should go to the best of homes. To this end, knowing the museum’s<br />
ambition, he brought it together with the foundation.<br />
A second tale of cultural philanthropy comes from England<br />
and this spring. In the words of Th e Wealth Report: ‘At a time when<br />
seemingly everyone in fi nance is considered evil, and the wealthy<br />
are painted as universally avaricious and self-interested, the story<br />
of Jonathan Ruff er bears reading.’<br />
Jonathan Ruff er is an investment manager who made a fortune by<br />
predicting the credit crunch. He is also a most civilised man who<br />
collects paintings and 78rpm records, an elegant writer and now a<br />
considerable benefactor to his native North-East of England, having<br />
prevented the Church of England from selling off some of the greatest<br />
paintings in the region to plug a hole in its fi nances. Th ey would<br />
otherwise have gone abroad after 250 years in a place for which they<br />
had historic as well as artistic importance. As a state church, the Church
Previous page: horse<br />
armour of Duke Ulrich<br />
of Württemberg<br />
(German, 1507).<br />
Right: Jacob and<br />
(below) three of his<br />
12 sons by Francisco de<br />
Zurbarán (1598–1664)<br />
‘I was the only person in a position<br />
to do anything about it. I happened<br />
to have £15 million. I wanted to do<br />
something for the North-East ’<br />
of England is custodian not only to much of the fi nest architecture in the<br />
country, but also to a treasury of works of art. Over the course of the 20th<br />
century, the Church Commissioners, who run its secular aff airs, divested<br />
themselves of much of the landed property including redundant or<br />
seemingly over-sized vicarages, putting the proceeds into sometimes<br />
unfortunate investments. Individual parishes have also disposed of many<br />
treasures in order to pay their way and keep roofs on churches. In some<br />
cases though, they have tried to do so out of puritanical prejudice against<br />
the Church possessing worldly wealth. Th is is similar to asset-stripping,<br />
and although there is a system backed by Parliamentary authority which<br />
should prevent unjustifi ed sales, a great deal that ought have been handed<br />
on to future generations has been sold off .<br />
Currently the Commissioners have their mercenary eyes on the<br />
Bishops’ Houses, which they no longer like to term ‘Palaces’, although<br />
some are indeed palaces or castles, others merely sizeable residences.<br />
Modern bishops live less grandly than their predecessors, and their homes,<br />
however splendid, also serve as working headquarters for their dioceses.<br />
One of the grandest is Auckland Castle, for 800 years seat of the<br />
Bishops of Durham, a building of immense historical and architectural<br />
importance. In 1756 Bishop Trevor paid £124 for 12 paintings by the<br />
Spanish master Francisco de Zurbarán (1598–1664), each measuring<br />
PRIVATCOLLECTOR<br />
Twenty-Four<br />
completed by a Benjamin by the 18th-century Arthur Pond. Th ey were<br />
intended to demonstrate the Bishop’s support for the 1753 Jewish<br />
Naturalisation Bill, which allowed Jews to become British citizens<br />
without converting to Christianity. It was passed but, despite the backing<br />
of the Anglican Church, repealed six months later after demonstrations<br />
and protests by anti-Semitic groups.<br />
Last year’s announcement that the Commissioners intended to sell<br />
the Zurbaráns provoked outrage in the North-East and throughout the<br />
British cultural world. Even though a sale might well have been illegal, the<br />
Commissioners insisted on proceeding, until Ruff er, a practising Christian<br />
who had never actually seen the paintings, stepped in, paid £15.5m for them<br />
– and immediately gave them back to the Church. ‘I was the only person in a<br />
position to do anything about it. I happened to have £15 million. I wanted<br />
to do something for the North-East, where I come from. My fi rst<br />
thought had been a commercial one – that I could buy them for myself<br />
– but then I realised that there was something much more important to<br />
do.’ Self-deprecatingly he adds: ‘Th e distraction of my job is being constantly<br />
fi ngered for money. It’s terrifi c to be able to say there isn’t any.’<br />
With the help of a £1m donation from the Rothschild Foundation<br />
and advice from the National Trust, the Church intends to turn the<br />
Castle at Bishop Auckland into a regional cultural and heritage centre.<br />
However, while Ruff er’s is undoubtedly a superbly philanthropic action,<br />
it leaves several important matters unresolved, including the legality of<br />
such sales by the Commissioners. However, these are quite literally<br />
parochial matters, and more generally, both stories show how much<br />
cultural benefi t can result from focused individuals such as Nicholas and<br />
Athena Karabots or Jonathan Ruff er deploying private resources in a<br />
positive manner for the public good.<br />
some 2.44m high and portraying one of the sons of Jacob – the set was IMAGES�©�CHRISTIAN�RUFFER
PRIVATSELECTION<br />
TIME<br />
<strong>THE</strong>�REIGN�OF�<strong>THE</strong>�SOBER�<br />
and�classical is coming to an end at<br />
last. Th e energy that evaporated with<br />
the fi nancial crisis can be felt once<br />
more. Innovation was everywhere at<br />
the BaselWorld watch fair this<br />
spring. Watch brands are no longer<br />
playing it safe. As sales return there<br />
is evidence that they are pushing the<br />
envelope once more. Here are some<br />
of the most outstanding examples…<br />
TIME<br />
AGAIN<br />
Keith W Strandberg fi nds a new<br />
energy among watchmakers at<br />
this year’s BaselWorld fair<br />
CHRISTOPHE�CLARET<br />
Christophe Claret has made amazingly complicated watches for some<br />
of the best names in the business and just recently started doing his<br />
own limited-edition timepieces, which showcase his virtuosity.<br />
Th is year, Claret introduced the 21 Blackjack (right), a watch that<br />
is almost a casino on your wrist. While giving you the time, it also<br />
allows you to play blackjack (with a striking mechanism for each card<br />
dealt), has dice in an aperture on the side of the case and a roulette<br />
wheel rotor on the back of the watch. With 501 parts, this watch is<br />
incredibly complex yet surprisingly easy to use. Th e 21 Blackjack is<br />
limited to three versions of 21 pieces each.
PATEK�PHILIPPE<br />
Th e watchmakers at Patek<br />
Philippe have recently introduced<br />
what is probably their most<br />
complicated ever woman’s<br />
wristwatch, the minute repeater.<br />
Th e minute repeater is one of the<br />
rarest and most respected watch<br />
complications and its peculiarity is<br />
that it strikes the time displayed on<br />
the dial using miniature gongs.‘We<br />
are very excited to introduce two<br />
new, very complex ladies’ pieces<br />
(7059R and 7000R) as it opens up<br />
a new sector of the ladies’ market,’<br />
says Larry Pettinelli, president of<br />
Patek Philippe North America.<br />
‘After all, some of Patek Philippe’s<br />
most historically signifi cant<br />
moments are connected with<br />
technical innovations found in<br />
ladies’ timepieces. For example,<br />
Queen Victoria’s watch, showcasing<br />
the new keyless winding<br />
mechanism, brought exceptional<br />
fame to the brand at a crucial time.’<br />
BADOLLET<br />
Staying on the striking watch<br />
theme, Badollet, well known<br />
for incredible movements and<br />
eye-catching designs, introduced<br />
the Observatoire 1872 Minute<br />
Repeater (right) at BaselWorld.<br />
Th e watch is named Observatoire<br />
1872 to commemorate the win<br />
by Badollet of the fi rst edition of<br />
the Concours de l’Observatoire,<br />
held in Geneva in 1872. Focused<br />
on precision, Badollet won this<br />
competition, taking the fi rst three<br />
places. Badollet calls its watches<br />
Instruments of Time, and the new<br />
Observatoire 1872 features a classic<br />
case with an open-worked opaline<br />
dial set with 72 diamonds and 12<br />
sapphires. Th e open dial and the<br />
transparent case-back allow you to<br />
see the incredible fi nishing on all<br />
the parts, and when you activate<br />
the slide to set the minute repeater<br />
in motion, you can watch the<br />
hammers and gongs strike the time.<br />
HARRY�WINSTON<br />
Every year, Harry Winston works with an independent<br />
watchmaker to make a limited-edition timepiece, designed to push<br />
boundaries and do things never done before. Th is year’s Opus, Opus<br />
11, was spectacular. Harry Winston teamed with Denis Giguet on this<br />
limited edition of 111 pieces – at the end of each hour, the central display<br />
of the timepiece breaks apart like a jigsaw puzzle and then reconfi gures<br />
as the next hour digit. It’s incredible to watch it in motion on YouTube<br />
– the movement has 566 components and they all seem to be moving<br />
at the same time (www.youtube.com/watch?v=YWvhp4YL3Bc). At the<br />
other end of the spectrum, Harry Winston also introduced a supremely<br />
elegant watch, the Midnight (right), which is a dressy, classical watch. No<br />
craziness, just pure elegance.<br />
PRIVATSELECTION<br />
Twenty-Nine y-Nine<br />
LOUIS�MOINET<br />
For centuries, watchmakers have explored new materials to<br />
enhance precision and for new aesthetics. Th is year, Louis Moinet has<br />
introduced its Geograph Chronograph (left), with genuine petrifi ed palm<br />
wood from the tropical forests of South-East Asia, estimated to be 70<br />
million years old. Th is watch is the standard bearer for Louis Moinet’s<br />
Rainforest project. Th e Geograph Rainforest is a 120-piece limited edition,<br />
and each watch sold will provide a substantial contribution to the Pulau<br />
Banding Foundation, which aims to preserve the Malaysian tropical forest<br />
of Belum-Temengor, one of the oldest in the world. On this watch, the<br />
time is indicated by dewdrop-shaped hands, on a dial adorned with Côtes<br />
du Jura striping. Th e dual-time display is shown by a blue serpentine hand.<br />
Th e chronograph pushers are in the distinctive Champagne-cork style and<br />
are fi nished with an atlas motif.
FRANC�VILA<br />
Striking watches – watches that chime the time on<br />
demand or automatically – are extremely diffi cult to<br />
make and are becoming increasingly popular. Th is year,<br />
Franc Vila, known for masculine watches featuring<br />
complicated movements, has introduced a skeletonised<br />
striking watch called the FVa35 SuperSonico 5 Minute<br />
Repeater (right) in the SuperLigero (superlight)<br />
Concept Collection. Th is collection is distinguished by<br />
very light but robust watches, and the SuperSonico is<br />
no exception. Th e case is made from titanium and steel,<br />
with the inner section in ‘Lightnium’ so as to be light<br />
and to ensure great sound for the repeater.<br />
PRIVATSELECTION<br />
HERMÈS<br />
Movement maestro Jean-Marc<br />
Wiederrecht, the genius behind the ‘poetic<br />
complications’ from Van Cleef & Arpels,<br />
has unveiled the Arceau Time Suspended<br />
(left), in association with Hermès. Th is watch<br />
allows the wearer to ‘suspend’ time at the<br />
push of a button, so you can forget about<br />
time while, say, having lunch with a loved<br />
one, then restore it as easily. ‘We are trying to<br />
give people time to dream,’ says Wiederrecht.<br />
‘We wanted this new watch to touch people<br />
emotionally but be simple to use. Very few<br />
brands would do a watch like this, because it’s<br />
a timepiece that doesn’t measure time, which<br />
is a paradox for a watchmaker. At Hermès,<br />
we prefer to focus on the quality of time and<br />
stop being stressed by the quantity.’<br />
HAUTLENCE<br />
Hautlence has introduced a spectacular<br />
piece, the HL2. Equipped with a brand-new<br />
movement visible through a sapphire crystal<br />
case, the HL2 displays the hour on a chain,<br />
while the minutes are in a retrograde display.<br />
Th e entire regulating organ is visible, and it<br />
rotates 60 degrees every hour. Amazing.<br />
ULYSSE�NARDIN<br />
With the new Alexander the Great<br />
Minute Repeater Westminster Carillon<br />
Tourbillon Jaquemarts, Ulysse Nardin is<br />
poised to conquer the watch industry. Th ere<br />
are fi ve warrior fi gures on the man-made<br />
polycrystalline diamond dial, four of which<br />
move in sync with the minute repeater as<br />
it chimes out the hours, quarter hours and<br />
minutes. Th is 44mm tourbillon minute<br />
repeater is limited to 100 pieces, 50 in white<br />
and 50 in rose gold.<br />
Thirty<br />
TAG�HEUER<br />
TAG Heuer, a brand that has created<br />
quite a tradition with concept watches, has<br />
introduced the TAG Heuer Mikrotimer<br />
Flying 1000 Concept Chronograph (above),<br />
the world’s fi rst-ever mechanical chronograph<br />
to measure and display 1/1,000th of a second.<br />
It beats 3,600,000 times per hour – the fastest<br />
mechanical regulating organ ever (most watch<br />
movements are 21,600, 28,800 or 36,000<br />
beats per hour). TAG Heuer accomplishes<br />
this with two escapements, one for regular<br />
time (beating at a ‘normal’ 28,800 beats per<br />
hour), and one for the chronograph, beating<br />
at that 3,600,000 beats per hour. Th e watch’s<br />
green central second hand turns around the<br />
dial 10 times per second, almost looking as if<br />
it’s going to fl y off the dial. It’s an incredible<br />
feat of watchmaking and worth a long look.<br />
Th e hope is that this concept makes its way<br />
into TAG’s regular line soon.
PRIVATDRIVE<br />
POWER�<br />
HAUS<br />
Th e word for a Mercedes without limits is Brabus.<br />
Charles Armstrong-Wilson enters the garage of dreams
abus is a Mercedes tuner in<br />
much the same way as Fortnum<br />
and Mason is a grocer and Krug<br />
makes fi zzy wines. While the<br />
company may tweak engines, its<br />
services go far beyond simply<br />
making cars go faster.<br />
Th e company was born out of one man’s all-consuming<br />
passion for driving fast cars. Bodo Buschmann’s father had a<br />
Mercedes-Benz dealership, but while at university, the<br />
young Buschmann developed a taste for sporty Porsches.<br />
His father soon realised this did not refl ect well on his own<br />
business and insisted his son drive a Mercedes. However,<br />
back in the early 1970s, the company’s cars were closely<br />
associated with taxis – hardly the stuff of a young car<br />
enthusiast’s dreams. Faced with this bleak prospect, Bodo<br />
did the only thing he could possibly do and made his<br />
Mercedes more interesting. He began tuning his car and, as<br />
others showed interest in what he was doing, he produced<br />
tuning parts for them too. By the time he left university, the<br />
tuning had turned into a business.<br />
In essence, this is what the company still does, but in a<br />
way the young Bodo might struggle to recognise. Nearly<br />
four decades on from his fi rst youthful excursions into<br />
tuning, Buschmann’s enthusiasm is undimmed but his<br />
ambition has grown with the budgets of his customers.<br />
Today the company has a<br />
genius for making the<br />
fast faster and the<br />
exclusive unique. Th ere is<br />
very little the company<br />
will not attempt on your behalf. Whether you would like the<br />
same leather in your S-Class as in your Ferrari or on your<br />
wife’s favourite handbag, Brabus will deal with it. At its base<br />
in Bottrop near Düsseldorf, Germany, the company has a<br />
fully equipped trim shop staff ed by highly skilled and<br />
experienced craftsmen and women who can tackle the<br />
toughest of challenges. If you would like a particular style of<br />
stitching, they will create it for you. If you want your initials<br />
or family crest on the headrests, it will be done.<br />
Every time a new Mercedes model is released, Brabus<br />
creates a set of patterns from the interior that can be used to<br />
craft entire new trim packages to suit the most whimsical of<br />
tastes. But its off erings are not bound by an options list and,<br />
if you want it, Brabus will endeavour to deliver it. As its<br />
recent show car for the Geneva Motor Show illustrated,<br />
there is very little its experts will not attempt. Th e vehicle<br />
had mountings in the back for the Apple iPad and even<br />
included the company’s own software to allow the iPad to<br />
control the environment inside the car. It was proudly<br />
advertised as ‘the fastest offi ce on the road’.<br />
Thirty-Three<br />
One of the company’s specialities is a reworked<br />
Mercedes Viano people carrier, which it has transformed<br />
into the most luxurious and well-equipped courtesy bus<br />
possible. Regularly fi tted items include a pair of S-Class<br />
seats, drinks cabinet, coff ee machine, 40-inch TV, Xbox<br />
games console and Apple Mac Mini computer. But the<br />
heart of the Brabus treatment is still tuning and this can<br />
be as hot as the vehicle will stand while retaining the<br />
original design’s standards of reliability and practicality.<br />
Celebrated tweaks include the Brabus Bullit, which is<br />
based on the Mercedes C-Class saloon, and the Rocket,<br />
based on the CLS. Th e latter is ready an exciting model,<br />
however the Brabus engineers have junked the engine and<br />
replaced it with their own version of the Mercedes V12.<br />
One engineer will spend 10 days building the engine up<br />
from scratch. Its capacity is stretched to 6.3 litres and then<br />
equipped with twin turbochargers made exclusively for<br />
Brabus. Even the engine mounts have to be redesigned<br />
and made from scratch to accommodate the turbo<br />
installation. How much power it delivers depends on the<br />
spec requested by the customer, but they can choose from<br />
640bhp, 750bhp or 780bhp.<br />
Cars like these are modifi ed way beyond their original<br />
type approval. As well as the engine, Brabus totally<br />
reengineers the suspension and brakes to give handling and<br />
stopping power to match the straight-line performance.<br />
After all this, Brabus<br />
One engineer will spend 10 days<br />
building the engine up from scratch<br />
needs to rehomologate<br />
their vehicles, that is<br />
defi ne them offi cially as<br />
new cars.<br />
So what does a Brabus feel like from behind the wheel?<br />
Whatever a supercar is, on fi rst acquaintance the Brabus<br />
EV12 is surely not one. Its styling is far too discreet. It is no<br />
more exciting-looking than an E-Class Mercedes, a bit<br />
lower on the suspension, with tastier wheels and a few<br />
subtle body bits on the nose and tail. Hardly a look that<br />
makes jaws drop. Inside too, the car is easily accessible and<br />
comfortable and – get this – you can see out.<br />
Start up and the engine is quiet; OK there may be a bit<br />
of an edge to the note, but nothing intrusive. It pulls away<br />
progressively without faltering, and trickles into slow traffi c<br />
completely at ease with itself. According to the Brabus man<br />
with us in the passenger seat, this is the EV12 development<br />
car which in its latest incarnation churns out 800bhp from<br />
its twin-turbo V12. Numbers are one thing, but if the<br />
company really delivers on its claims, stamping on the<br />
right-hand pedal should produce a mind-blowing blur of<br />
acceleration. Th e prospect seems unlikely but, clear road,<br />
wheels straight, we give it a go. Whoa! One hundred<br />
kilometres an hour fl ashes past in an instant and suddenly
When the devil in<br />
the driver breaks free,<br />
a Brabus explodes<br />
in an orgy of speed<br />
and sensation<br />
the speedo is sweeping past 200. Yet the EV12<br />
seems to barely be labouring as the tiny dot in<br />
the distance ahead is rapidly turning into the<br />
back of a very large lorry. We throw out the<br />
anchors and sanity returns in no time, the<br />
EV12 pulling up without any fuss or drama.<br />
Pottering along at normal traffi c speeds,<br />
we’re left wondering where all that came from.<br />
More to the point, how it was possible without<br />
getting horribly out of shape as the engine<br />
dealt out more than a mere two wheels could<br />
possibly hope to cope with? Th is is the<br />
character of Brabus, genuinely dual-character<br />
cars that can be whatever you want them to be<br />
at that moment in time. In a domestic<br />
environment they make no demands on<br />
passengers through loud exhausts or rock-solid<br />
suspension. But, when the devil in the driver<br />
breaks free, they explode in an orgy of speed<br />
and sensation. And that applies to whatever<br />
model you want, whether it’s a Smart or a<br />
Mercedes SLS supercar.<br />
As if the latter was anything less than<br />
perfect already, Brabus has an exciting options<br />
list for the model. If you fi nd the suspension<br />
too harsh for the Autobahn but too soft for the<br />
Nurburgring, then order the Brabus version. It<br />
has dual settings that can be selected to suit the<br />
terrain and the driver’s mood. Th ere is even a<br />
PRIVATDRIVE<br />
replacement exhaust system available,<br />
beautifully crafted in titanium, that is not only<br />
lighter but also, at the fl ick of a switch, bypasses<br />
the silencer for a full-blooded roar.<br />
Th e talents at Brabus are not confi ned to<br />
new cars either. For some years now, the<br />
company has had a quiet sideline in restoring<br />
classic Mercedes. Good original examples are<br />
sought out and then completely restored to<br />
as-new condition. It may be a small part of the<br />
overall business but the commitment to a<br />
superb standard in the fi nished product is just<br />
as high as with the new cars.<br />
Although it works closely with the<br />
Thirty-Four<br />
Mercedes factory, Brabus is an independent<br />
company and can tackle challenges that the<br />
manufacturer might back away from. It also has<br />
the support of a loyal and enthusiastic customer<br />
base all over the world. Talking to Brabus<br />
employees, it soon becomes clear that the only<br />
acceptable standard here is excellence. Judging<br />
by how long most have stayed with the<br />
company, they obviously enjoy the challenge.<br />
Th e strength in depth and enthusiasm of<br />
its staff made Brabus one of the most endearing<br />
companies I have had the privilege to visit, but<br />
it was the shattering performance of its cars<br />
that made it unforgettable.
SMART�BRABUS<br />
When Daimler-Benz launched the Smart, it was a small car that<br />
transcended barriers of wealth or class. The car was so cool and you didn’t<br />
even have to be cash-strapped to want one. Many owners began to stamp<br />
their own identity on their Smart and, recognising a market, Smart and<br />
Brabus teamed up to form a new customising company. Using the la� er’s<br />
resources, a range of items has been developed that owners can have<br />
added to their cars on the production line.<br />
But some customers want to go further with unique colour schemes or<br />
trim options. To serve this need, more than 1,000 Smarts a year are<br />
delivered to a unit on the Brabus facility in Bo� rop where they can have<br />
whatever their owners want. You’d like the same paint and trim package as<br />
your Mercedes SLS? No problem. More power and a colour scheme the<br />
same as your favourite racing car? Of course, sir, anything is possible.<br />
PRIVATDRIVE<br />
Thirty-Five<br />
Previous page: the Brabus B63 S’s engine<br />
gives an awesome top speed of around 200mph.<br />
Opposite page: the Brabus EV12, which can<br />
churn out 800bhp from its twin-turbo V12.<br />
Left: a Brabus-customised Smart car.<br />
Below: the T65 RS speedos and headrest –<br />
Brabus can create any style of stitching you want<br />
EV��� ����BITURBO ����LIMOUSINE<br />
Base model E-Class SLS 800L<br />
Engine size 6,233 cc 6,208 cc 6,233 cc<br />
Power 790 bhp 690 bhp 789 bhp<br />
Torque 1,047 lb.� 627 lb.� 1,047 lb.�<br />
at 2,100 rpm at 4,300 rpm at 2,100 rpm<br />
Acceleration<br />
0–100kmph 3.7 s 3.7 s 3.9 s<br />
0–200kmph 9.9 s 10.2 s 10.3 s<br />
0–300kmph 23.9 s – 24.9 s<br />
Top speed 370 km/h 340 km/h 350 km/h
<strong>THE</strong>�YEATMAN<br />
Oporto is the English name for Porto, the main city of the<br />
Douro wine region and one of the most visually enchanting<br />
towns in Europe. With its cluster of historic buildings and a<br />
unique location on the river, it has rightly been awarded Unesco<br />
World Heritage status. Th e best hotels have traditionally been<br />
outside the historic centre, along the grand boulevards of<br />
Boavista, and they tend to be effi cient, luxurious but antiseptic:<br />
not very enticing for the upmarket visitor.<br />
Now, however, there is an infi nitely more alluring<br />
alternative. Th e Yeatman is a brand new hotel on the steep<br />
slopes of Vila Nova de Gaia, Porto’s twin town across the Douro<br />
facing the mesmerising Oporto cityscape. All 82 guest rooms<br />
have large open-air terraces with this dramatic view as the hotel<br />
is cleverly terraced into the hillside and the public rooms and<br />
open-air pool look across the curving river towards the arched,<br />
double-decker Dom Luís bridge astride a narrow gorge.<br />
All the great port houses have their cellars in Vila Nova de<br />
Gaia and so the Yeatman fi ts in perfectly as it’s the brainchild<br />
of Adrian Bridge, dynamic CEO of the Fladgate Partnership,<br />
one of the most revered names in the region with Taylor’s Port,<br />
Fonseca and Croft in its stable. Originally a soldier and then an<br />
investment banker, Bridge married into a Port family and his<br />
wife Natasha is the head blender of the group.<br />
Wine is an essential part of the Yeatman’s unique appeal<br />
with a massive wine cellar of 20,000 bottles and the world’s<br />
most comprehensive collection of Portuguese table wines and<br />
Ports. Th irty-one-year-old Beatriz Machado is the hotel’s wine<br />
director with an impressive academic background in viticulture<br />
and œnology, and she is assisted by the restaurant sommelier,<br />
Elisabette Fernandes. Together they work closely with executive<br />
chef Ricardo Costa who creates divinely imaginative food that<br />
refl ects the best of modern Portugal. He is a real talent.<br />
Lunch or dinner in the bright and airy restaurant is a true<br />
gourmet event with complex dishes that are a delight to the eye and<br />
the palate. Th e menu may list scallops in burnt cream with sea<br />
PRIVATDINING<br />
Iberian summer<br />
Destination restaurants in Spain and Portugal<br />
are topping the list for travelling gourmets this<br />
summer, says Jennifer Sharp<br />
Thirty-Six<br />
urchins, anchovies and citrus; blue Atlantic lobster with a broth<br />
of oysters and accompanied by a savoury terrine of milk-fed veal<br />
with foie gras and pistachio bread; wild turbot with roast tomatoes,<br />
eel rice in red wine and a curry sauce with mussels; or doublecooked<br />
suckling pig from Bisaro with sweet potato, braised<br />
chicory and hazelnut sauce. Th ere are dishes for vegetarians and<br />
for children, exotic desserts, Portuguese cheeses with homemade<br />
jams and fruit breads, plus extravagant tasting menus to<br />
showcase the chef ’s repertoire. Clearly this is not everyday eating<br />
and the hotel provides many opportunities for casual meals, but<br />
Ricardo Costa’s cooking at its best is not to be missed.<br />
Th e Yeatman reinforces its œnological reputation with regular<br />
wine dinners which attract not only hotel guests but wine makers<br />
and afi cionados from afar. And if all this temptation gets the better<br />
of your waistline, there’s always the hotel’s Caudalie Spa (with<br />
therapies based on wine, of course) to help regain your silhouette.<br />
Rua do Choupelo, 4400-088 Vila Nova de Gaia, Porto, Portugal,<br />
+351 22 013 3100, www.theyeatman.com<br />
SHIS�RESTAURANT<br />
Downriver from Porto, on the north-west coast of Portugal<br />
where the great Douro disgorges into the sea, there are miles of<br />
sandy beaches and esplanades backed by the smart apartments<br />
and villas of Foz. Shis is the most fashionable restaurant for<br />
miles, occupying a large decked area on a platform facing the<br />
water, above the beach but below road level. Steps lead down to<br />
a large open-air terrace with pots of greenery, white furniture<br />
and canvas parasols. Th is leads into an equally large, L-shaped<br />
minimalist restaurant with fl oor-to-ceiling windows, white<br />
origami-style paper and wire light fi ttings, blond wood, steel<br />
and dove-grey furniture and a sushi bar with high chairs along<br />
one side. All the tables are full and buzzing with couples<br />
fl irting, families celebrating and top businessmen doing deals.<br />
You feel you’ve arrived to be sitting there, watching the tide roll<br />
in and the children surf or splash in the waves outside.
Thirty-Nine<br />
Daniel Humm tailors<br />
fresh lobster to suit<br />
individual diners
Th e chef and co-owner is Antonio Vieira, whose<br />
cooking is clearly infl uenced by Japan and the Far<br />
East, hence the sushi bar, but translated into a local<br />
idiom with freshly caught seafood, the region’s best<br />
beef, black pork and alheira sausage. Portions are<br />
authentically Portuguese – huge. Th e extensive menu<br />
lists miso soup with clams and tofu, scallops tartar<br />
with coconut and lemongrass soup, and grilled<br />
shrimp with mild curry alongside gutsy meat dishes<br />
such as duck with black pepper crust and vanilla, or<br />
lamb with chestnut and mushroom crumble. Th ere<br />
are light but luxurious dishes for dieters (lobster<br />
salad with asparagus) or massive steaks for<br />
trenchermen. It’s all delicious with fresh, clean tastes<br />
and stylish presentation perfectly complemented by<br />
the wine list of mainly Portuguese wines, many<br />
available by the glass.<br />
At night when the sun sets across the water<br />
and the lights come on, Shis is an illuminated jewel<br />
box perched above the water’s edge as the Atlantic<br />
pounds the shore.<br />
Praia do Ourigo Esplanada do Castelo, Foz do Douro,<br />
4150-623 Porto, Portugal, +351 226 189593<br />
SCHILO�RESTAURANT<br />
Finca Cortesin is a serenely beautiful resort in the<br />
rolling foothills of the Casares mountains, a discreet<br />
distance from Sotogrande. Just a few years ago, this<br />
was bare land dotted with scrubby carob and olive<br />
trees. Now there is a palace set in 70 acres with<br />
manicured lawns and rose gardens with sweeping<br />
views over the Mediterranean. Th ere are airy<br />
courtyards and shady arcades, with heavy wooden<br />
doors, traditional tiles and a wealth of antiques: it<br />
feels old, like the country home of a Spanish grandee.<br />
Some visitors are drawn by the privacy and<br />
unhurried luxury, some by the superb spa, others by<br />
the championship golf course, which has just hosted<br />
the World Matchplay Championship. But the<br />
gourmet traveller has his sights on an exceptional<br />
restaurant, Schilo, named after the shy but immensely<br />
talented chef Schilo van Coevorden, who was last year<br />
hailed as the best chef in Spain.<br />
Schilo is responsible for all the restaurants within<br />
the resort including the traditional Andalusian<br />
cooking of El Jardín and a broad international menu<br />
for the alfresco and pool areas. But in his signature<br />
restaurant, Schilo has drawn on his experience in Asia<br />
and Japan to create a distinct style of elaborate, playful<br />
and utterly delicious dishes. You can choose a<br />
traditional three-course à la carte menu but it’s much<br />
better to launch into one of the multi-course tasting<br />
menus featuring dishes such as beetroot ice with<br />
caviar, soy-glazed eel sushi, green papaya salad with<br />
spider crab, foie gras gyoza with black truffl e, crystal<br />
sea bass with wild vanilla, turbot with miso, and milk<br />
lamb with date jus and Arabic rice. Th ere is also a<br />
vegetarian tasting menu featuring vegetables, fruit<br />
and herbs just picked from the estate’s own beds.<br />
Dishes are bursting with fl avour yet presented<br />
with delicacy and precision. Th e stately dining room is<br />
rich in both European and Japanese detail with fi ne<br />
porcelain and slender metal chopsticks alongside<br />
ornate silver wine coolers. Th ere are magnifi cent<br />
doorways with ancient tiles, elaborate sconces with<br />
carvings of grapes, tapestries and heavy wooden<br />
furniture inlaid with beaten silver. But there is also a<br />
cool Japanese aesthetic, the walls hung with silk<br />
panels and traditional paintings and a handsome red<br />
lacquer chest. Conquistador meets samurai.<br />
At one end of the room is a theatrical open kitchen<br />
where Schilo himself takes centre stage with silent<br />
assistants like religious acolytes or actors in a Noh<br />
performance. It’s a striking experience, especially if you<br />
are seated at the long sharing table alongside the ‘stage’.<br />
But even if you’ve chosen to sit further away or outside<br />
in the courtyard, you will still enjoy what is<br />
undoubtedly some of the fi nest cooking in Europe.<br />
Finca Cortesin, Hotel, Golf & Spa, Carretera de Casares,<br />
E-29690 Casares, Malaga, Spain,<br />
+34 952 937800, www.fi ncacortesin.com<br />
Thirty-Eight<br />
Previous page: Th e Yeatman,<br />
in Porto, Portugal, is a bright<br />
airy hotel with views over<br />
the city.<br />
Top: Shis, on Portugal’s<br />
coast near Porto, looks out<br />
over the Atlantic.<br />
Above: Schilo, at Malaga’s<br />
Finca Cortesin resort, features a<br />
theatrical open kitchen.<br />
Left: Schilo’s Asian-inspired<br />
menu makes use of herbs from<br />
the resort’s gardens
A very contemporary return to old traditional high-end standards<br />
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or all the glamour of his charity’s<br />
reputation, Charlie Mayhew,<br />
co-founder and CEO of Tusk Trust, is<br />
astonishingly low-key. Much of what I know<br />
about his NGO, founded in 1992 with British<br />
actor Timothy Ackroyd, relates to its celebrity<br />
roll call of supporters. Th ey include rocker<br />
Ronnie Wood, DJ Zoe Ball, comedienne Ruby<br />
Wax and its royal patron, the Duke of Cambridge.<br />
Such are the circles in which he moves that<br />
Mayhew himself is only a week back from<br />
Westminster Abbey where he attended the Royal<br />
Wedding. So when I meet him in spring at the<br />
charity’s offi ces in Gillingham, Dorset – a small<br />
west-of-England market town – I’m frankly a<br />
PRIVATPERSON<br />
SAVE<br />
AND<br />
PROSPER<br />
Charlie Mayhew has made a career of protecting animals<br />
– but it wouldn’t have been possible without some very<br />
high-profi le supporters. Sophy Roberts talks to the founder<br />
of Tusk, the celebrity’s favourite wildlife charity<br />
little surprised by the lack of grandeur of brand<br />
Tusk. Because it is a brand, quite a big brand in<br />
NGO terms, raising in excess of £2.13m in 2010,<br />
the funds distributed across 40 projects in 17<br />
African countries since the charity’s inception.<br />
But let’s get back to Charlie – well-spoken,<br />
clean-cut Charlie, educated at that most upper<br />
crust of English boarding schools, Wellington<br />
College, and now living in Dorset with his wife<br />
and four children, a short hop from where his<br />
charity is HQ’d above Gillingham town post<br />
offi ce. Th ere are only four people based in the<br />
offi ce, which has much to do with the high<br />
percentage of funds (80 per cent) that reach<br />
benefi ciaries on the ground. Charlie (and let’s<br />
PORTRAIT�©�PAUL�STUART
call him that, as he’s a relaxed sort of chap) is<br />
drinking cheap instant coff ee. Dressed in a<br />
simple round-neck sweater and shirt, he looks<br />
like he might once have been in fi nance (which<br />
he was) and that it probably bored him (which<br />
it did). I say this because he has a spirited edge<br />
that reveals itself as soon as we start to talk. For<br />
while Charlie takes Tusk very seriously indeed<br />
– protecting wildlife, supporting communities,<br />
promoting education with grassroots, simple<br />
everyday solutions – he also sees the humour in<br />
how it all began. He was a gap year student, in<br />
South Africa, selling Bic biros from the back of<br />
a car. Th at was in 1979 – the fi rst time Charlie<br />
set foot on the continent. ‘I knew it wasn’t the
eal Africa, or at least the one of my romantic<br />
imagination fuelled by fi lms like Born Free,’ he<br />
says, ‘but it was on this trip as a door-to-door<br />
salesman that I went into Kruger National<br />
Park. My fi rst experience of African wildlife<br />
left me mesmerised.’<br />
After a stint at marine insurance in London<br />
and time as a deckhand on a Norwegian tanker,<br />
Charlie made it back out to Africa fi ve years<br />
later; from 1984 to 1986 he organised and led a<br />
major expedition as part of the UN’s<br />
International Year of Youth. Th e truth is he<br />
showed himself to be an eff ective hustler even<br />
then. Th e 33-strong team had the backing of<br />
Margaret Th atcher, the group driving a convoy<br />
of eight four-wheel-drive vehicles from the<br />
Sahara to Cape Town. ‘It was very aff ecting,’ he<br />
says. ‘We saw evidence of the bushmeat trade in<br />
the Congo, but it wasn’t until we reached East<br />
Africa that I saw the real impact of poaching.’<br />
It was the rhino specifi cally (the animal<br />
forms part of the Tusk logo) that was in trouble,<br />
the poaching ‘totally out of control,’ Charlie<br />
recalls. ‘Ten years before our expedition, Kenya<br />
had around 10,000 black rhino. By 1986, the<br />
numbers were down to 250.’ He continues:<br />
‘When you see such huge animals up close, it is<br />
magnifi cent – these prehistoric creatures that<br />
have been on the planet longer than any of us.<br />
Only man kills a fully grown rhino. Th ey have no<br />
natural predators. And then to see how they are<br />
mown down, and how humans will hack at its<br />
face to take a horn – it is a shocking, shocking<br />
thing.’ Charlie switches to the ivory trade,<br />
reeling off statistics. ‘Back in the 80s, poaching<br />
was taking off big time. By 1989, Africa was<br />
losing 100,000 elephants a year. Th e whole<br />
continent only had a population of 700,000. It<br />
was numbers like these that made me think we<br />
had to do something about it.’<br />
Th e original idea was for Ackroyd and<br />
Mayhew, who were friends, to make a thriller<br />
about poaching. Th ey hoped this would reach a<br />
wider audience than, say, a BBC documentary.<br />
Fuelled by naive optimism, they set up a charity<br />
ready to receive the fi lm’s profi ts, only to<br />
discover that Hollywood likes to keep the<br />
money for itself. Th en Disney came out with a<br />
similarly themed fi lm, A Far Off Place, about six<br />
months ahead of them. ‘It was just bad luck,<br />
bad timing,’ Charlie says. ‘We couldn’t compete
IMAGES�©�CORBIS<br />
Previous page: Charlie Mayhew at<br />
home in Dorset, where Tusk is based.<br />
Left: Mayhew’s vision is to protect<br />
animals by off ering tangible benefi ts from<br />
conservation to local people.<br />
Below: Mayhew and Tusk patron<br />
Prince William hand over a Land Rover<br />
to conservation workers on the ground<br />
with the mighty mouse, so that’s when we<br />
thought about fundraising in more<br />
conventional ways.’<br />
For the next fi ve years, Charlie devoted<br />
evenings to developing the Trust, coming back<br />
each night after a day’s slog as an independent<br />
fi nancial adviser. Hard work alone, however,<br />
soon proved insuffi cient. ‘I needed celebrity,’ he<br />
says. ‘Th rough the fi nancial world I had one or<br />
two good contacts, so I started to give that some<br />
attention.’ When he secured Ronnie Wood as a<br />
funding patron, things began to pick up. ‘Hello<br />
magazine covered every event we had,’ Charlie<br />
remembers. ‘Th is gave the impression we were<br />
much bigger than we were. And that’s when the<br />
momentum really started to build.’<br />
I suspect subtle tenacity is the secret to<br />
Charlie Mayhew’s success. He controls any<br />
conversation, yet he makes you feel like you<br />
decided the direction in which he’s steered it.<br />
Th is has to do with his likeable English manners<br />
and beguiling humility. (‘I sought celebrity<br />
support early on because I knew no one would<br />
be interested in me,’ he says.) One thing is clear:<br />
Charlie Mayhew doesn’t like talking about<br />
himself. Asked what he does for downtime, he<br />
says he doesn’t have time for anything except<br />
Tusk. ‘I remember how in the early days my desk<br />
would have piles of fi nancial advisory work on<br />
one side, and conservation on the other,’ he says.<br />
‘Both needed doing, but I would always do<br />
Africa fi rst. Th at’s when I knew I had to<br />
commit.’ So in 2000, he moved his family from<br />
London to the country, gave up the day job,<br />
resigned as the charity’s trustee, and became<br />
Tusk’s fi rst chief executive.<br />
Th e timing was fortuitous. Th at same<br />
millennium year, the heir to the UK throne was<br />
spending his gap year building hides for<br />
birdwatchers as a volunteer at the Lewa Wildlife<br />
Conservancy in northern Kenya, a game reserve<br />
Tusk had been involved with since 1995. ‘We<br />
were lucky, because eff ectively William came<br />
across us,’ says Charlie. ‘He got back from Africa<br />
and out of the blue I was called about a charity<br />
polo event in which he and his brother Harry<br />
were taking part. Th e palace wondered if Tusk<br />
would like to be a benefi ciary.’ It was in his<br />
thank-you note that Charlie tentatively asked if<br />
the prince might be interested in becoming a<br />
patron. ‘We were politely informed that while he<br />
PRIVATPERSON<br />
was at university, this would not be possible, but<br />
to please keep in touch. And I did.’ Five years<br />
later, and William committed to his fi rst two<br />
charities: Centrepoint, the homeless shelter in<br />
Central London, and Tusk.<br />
‘Th is catapulted us into the stratosphere,’<br />
Charlie recalls. ‘He provided us with a level of<br />
global credibility that I just can’t explain. Funds<br />
have more than doubled in the last fi ve years<br />
– an exponential rising curve. During the Royal<br />
Tour in Africa last June, we were taking around<br />
80 international media every day. His pulling<br />
power is extraordinary, and combined with his<br />
passion for Africa, well, even during the fi nancial<br />
‘William provided<br />
us with a level of global<br />
credibility that I<br />
just can’t explain.<br />
His pulling power<br />
is extraordinary’<br />
crises when we anticipated a 15 per cent downturn<br />
we came out 46 per cent up on the year.’<br />
Just as the Prince came across Tusk while<br />
on gap year, Teresa and Stuart Graham, a<br />
British couple and inveterate travellers to<br />
Africa, were tourists who became engaged with<br />
the charity ‘by accident’; they are now among<br />
Tusk’s most signifi cant private donors. ‘Lots of<br />
people who travel to Africa come across what<br />
we do inadvertently,’ says Charlie, citing<br />
Kenyan community-owned lodges Il Ngwesi,<br />
Tassia and Sarara as places holidaymakers<br />
might encounter their work.<br />
Tusk doesn’t leave all its fundraising to<br />
chance, of course; it fosters partnerships with<br />
travel professionals, teaming up with the likes of<br />
Africa specialist, London-based Tim Best, to<br />
expose clients to the charity’s work (it was Best<br />
who put the Grahams and Tusk together), Tusk<br />
encouraging tour operators to donate a<br />
‘conservation tax’ on behalf of each visitor. ‘I have<br />
known Tusk for as long as it has been going, and<br />
I’ve seen it grow to now encompass not only<br />
Forty-Three<br />
wildlife but also sustainability, communities and<br />
education. I think that’s the key to Africa’s<br />
future,’ says Best, who himself runs the Tusk<br />
Safaricom Marathon each June, all proceeds<br />
from the Lewa race going to the charity.<br />
Not that all the projects – some part-funded,<br />
others wholly supported by Tusk – are attractive<br />
from a tourism point of view. Security issues,<br />
accessibility and more come into play when the<br />
charity is working across 17 diff erent countries,<br />
including the Congo, Rwanda and Sierra Leone.<br />
But when it works, as Lewa does, Charlie is<br />
buoyed by the charity’s future: ‘It is all about<br />
creating successful templates to roll out<br />
elsewhere,’ he says, citing community-driven<br />
conservancies as the best examples. ‘Th ese lie at<br />
the core of our story. For us you could almost say<br />
conservation is community – a subtle but<br />
relevant defi nition, because unless communities<br />
experience fi nancial and tangible benefi ts from<br />
conserving wildlife, they will always see animals<br />
as a threat, not an asset.’ And when humans are<br />
seen to profi t, corporate donors step in, with<br />
Tusk backed by the likes of British Airways,<br />
Artemis and Deutsche Bank.<br />
Of course there is still a long way to go.<br />
Chinese presence in East Africa has helped push<br />
the price of rhino horn to $60,000 a kilo, says<br />
Charlie, making this so-called aphrodisiac more<br />
valuable than gold. Yet global philanthropy gives<br />
less than three per cent to environment and<br />
conservation. Tellingly Charlie doesn’t pass<br />
comment. Instead he lets me absorb the idea for<br />
myself. Subtle tenacity, you see, because after an<br />
hour, he hasn’t tried to make an acolyte of me by<br />
beating a drum. Such tactics, I have learnt, just<br />
aren’t Charlie Mayhew’s style.
WE DINED IN <strong>THE</strong> VINEYARD,<br />
WHICH WASN’T OPEN TO A SOUL.<br />
Hadn’t been for over 100 years. And<br />
yet there we were, the eight of us,<br />
laughing, with the sun on our shoulders<br />
and the most exquisite Bordeaux on<br />
our tongues.<br />
If Jane J hadn’t h d ’t known k Luc, L our gracious i host, h t we’d ’d<br />
be out strolling along another part of<br />
�����������������������������������������������������������������������������������������<br />
tales of his 70 years cultivating grapes and wooing women.<br />
��������������������������������������������������������<br />
our dessert, and Luc led us down a creaky stairway into<br />
a damp, private cellar, where he handed me a reserve<br />
bottle to remind me of our time there.<br />
Six weeks later, I watch the rugged coastline creep<br />
past our living room window, and open the bottle.<br />
I am immediately whisked back to the thick cellar air<br />
and gravelly vineyard soil. But the cool gusts coming<br />
in from the veranda pull me back, reminding me of the Arctic adventure that lies just<br />
over the horizon...
Only 200 make the journey, which continues aboardtheworld.com | +1 954 874 3399<br />
Residences at Sea
PRIVATESCAPE<br />
CHIC<br />
- O N-<br />
SEA�<br />
Th e Hamptons is the catchall<br />
name for the Long Island<br />
villages that off er refuge from<br />
the summer heat to wealthy<br />
New Yorkers. As Catherine<br />
Sabino reveals, the hottest<br />
Hampton is the little-known<br />
hamlet of Sagaponack<br />
When a village in the Hamptons, that cluster of<br />
gilded seaside enclaves on Long Island, topped<br />
Businessweek’s list as the most expensive town<br />
in America, it hardly seemed worth a headline. With close to<br />
three dozen billionaires (Ronald Lauder, Pete Peterson, Ralph<br />
Lauren among others) and countless celebrities (Gwyneth and<br />
Chris, Sir Paul) owning estates on the East End, how could a<br />
Hampton zip code fail to take fi rst prize?<br />
But few expected the hamlet of Sagaponack to sit atop<br />
the Businessweek rankings for the costliest US real estate, a<br />
position it has held the last two years; the median house value<br />
is $3,406,640, according to Zillow.com. Defi ned as much by<br />
its natural attractions as what it doesn’t off er A-listers,<br />
Sagaponack stubbornly remains a glitz-free oasis in the<br />
label-obsessed Shangri-La of Hampton towns running from<br />
Westhampton to Montauk Point.<br />
You’ll fi nd no designer boutiques, mogul-magnet restaurants,<br />
galleries or nightspots in Sagaponack – the usual loci around<br />
which a chic Hamptonite’s summer life revolves. Th e hamlet’s<br />
Main Street houses one building, containing a post offi ce and<br />
general store. Th e train from Manhattan doesn’t even stop here.<br />
Sagaponack’s low-key glamour has long been its allure. ‘Th e<br />
fact that Sagaponack isn’t commercial, that it retains its country<br />
appeal has just increased its desirability,’ says Beate Moore, a<br />
senior vice-president of Sotheby’s International Realty, who has<br />
sold property in Sagaponack and neighbouring Hamptons for<br />
over a decade. (And sold it well. Moore ranks sixth on the Wall<br />
Street Journal’s list of the most successful real estate executives by<br />
sales volume in America.) ‘You don’t feel like you’re on Park<br />
Avenue, as you might in the estate area of Southampton.’<br />
Sagaponack still has what drew people to the Hamptons in<br />
the fi rst place: a bucolic, open landscape with acres of working
IMAGE�©�PHOTOLIBRARY<br />
farmland, fl awless ocean beaches with powdery white sand,<br />
historic Shingle-style houses and balmy salt air breezes, all<br />
bathed in the soft, painterly light that artists in the region have<br />
tried to capture for hundreds of years. Families whose property<br />
deeds date to the mid-1600s continue to live in Sagaponack,<br />
farming their ancestral lands as they have for 15 generations.<br />
Th ey’re as likely to be your neighbour as the latest hedgie, or a<br />
famous name like JK Rowling, who paid $150,000 for a<br />
two-week rental in the hamlet several years back.<br />
Th at’s not to say you won’t fi nd pastoral settings, great<br />
beaches or Childe Hassam-like vistas elsewhere on the East<br />
End – each Hampton town has its special enchantments. Take a<br />
walk in East Hampton around the village green on a languid<br />
August day, or along Further Lane as the late afternoon fog rolls<br />
in from the sea, to experience some of the region’s celebrated<br />
beauty. It’s just that Sagaponack is more of what the Hamptons<br />
used to be: rural, a rustic refuge, rather than a city-in-thecountry<br />
redoubt. Even the large estates exude a discreet swank.<br />
‘Th e feeling of expansiveness, the openness you have in<br />
Sagaponack is quite rare in the Hamptons nowadays,’ says<br />
Perry Guillot, a highly sought-after landscape architect, who<br />
counts among his clients Aerin Lauder, Tory Burch and Tina<br />
Brown. ‘On certain lanes you can see all the way to the ocean.’<br />
In the history of Manhattan summer colonies, Sagaponack<br />
is a late discovery, when you consider Wall Street bankers<br />
started vacationing on the East End in the 1890s. Rich New<br />
York Catholic families, like the Murray and McDonnell clans,<br />
shunned by WASP Newport society, turned to Southampton in<br />
the 1920s. After World War II the artists came: Jackson Pollack<br />
and Willem de Kooning heading to the low-cost Springs (on<br />
the north side of Amagansett). For fl ush artists and writers, East<br />
Hampton’s New England-like charms were a perennial magnet.<br />
As East Hampton became more social, writers searched for<br />
a less frothy, more Bohemian vibe. In the late 50s and early 60s,<br />
a cluster of big-name authors found the quiet anonymity of<br />
Sagaponack very much to their liking. Truman Capote, that<br />
shrewd judge of chic and status, bought a house in the village<br />
in 1961. WASP scion and writer George Plimpton (famously<br />
blackballed by East Hampton’s posh Maidstone Club despite<br />
his Eastern Establishment bona fi des), Kurt Vonnegut and<br />
Peter Matthiessen took up residence in the hamlet as well. Th ey<br />
and a handful of other scribes had the place to themselves for<br />
years, living quietly (or relatively so – Plimpton was a fi reworks<br />
maestro) with the village’s fi rst families – the Whites, Fosters,<br />
and Hildreths. Until the early 1980s, Sagaponack looked and<br />
functioned very much as it had for the last 300 years.<br />
‘When I used to tell people my address was Sagaponack,<br />
they thought I lived on an Indian reservation,’ says author and<br />
journalist Linda Bird Francke, who has been here for over<br />
three decades. (While collaborating with Benazir Bhutto on<br />
her autobiography, she had the Pakistani prime minister out<br />
for a country visit.) When farming families, hobbled by<br />
inheritance taxes, began to sell chunks of land in the 1980s,<br />
Wall Street, fl ush with Reagan-era money, took note. ‘Th at’s<br />
when the interest in Sagaponack started,’ says Francke.<br />
Even with the growing desirability of its real estate,<br />
Sagaponack stayed an insider’s getaway for another decade.<br />
Caroline Kennedy, the late president’s daughter, her husband, Ed<br />
Schlossberg, and their children summered here quietly for<br />
years. In 1995, Lloyd Blankfein, now the CEO of Goldman<br />
Sachs, bought property on Parsonage Lane; a few years later,<br />
Gary Hurst, then vice-chair of Goldman, built a large home.<br />
For the most part the village kept off the media’s radar,<br />
glossies and tabloids happy to celebrity hunt in the better-known
Hamptons, until 1998. Th at was when Ira Rennert,<br />
the billionaire CEO of the Renco Group, began<br />
construction of what was believed to be the largest<br />
and most expensive house in America, on a swath of<br />
prime Sagaponack land. Plans for the 66,000-squarefoot<br />
home (100,000 square feet with its satellite<br />
buildings) brought fi erce opposition in the village, and<br />
launched a frenzied real estate saga few major<br />
American newspapers or magazines could resist.<br />
Enraged neighbours and local interests petitioned<br />
the town of Southampton (of which Sagaponack was<br />
part), in the hopes of denying Rennert the requisite<br />
building permits. Ads ran in local papers decrying ‘the<br />
rape of Sagaponack’. While Rennert ultimately won<br />
the battle and the hotel-size house was built (Zillow<br />
now values the estate at $200m), there was one upside<br />
to the whole ruckus: it served as a rallying cry, kicking<br />
Sagaponack’s other preservation eff orts into higher<br />
gear. Th e hamlet moved to change zoning laws,<br />
limiting house size to 20,000 square feet. In its own<br />
declaration of independence, Sagaponack broke away<br />
from the town of Southampton, incorporating in<br />
2005 to better control future development and<br />
beachfront property.<br />
‘Land use, that’s a key issue out here,’ says Steven<br />
Gaines, author of the best-selling Philistines at the<br />
Hedgerow, a book chronicling the social and real estate<br />
history of the Hamptons. He notes his town of East<br />
Hampton ‘has the toughest restrictions. Still, a lot of<br />
building can occur. What kind of building is crucial.’<br />
Lee Foster, Sagaponack’s deputy mayor, a member<br />
of one of the town’s founding families, and an active<br />
preservationist, says: ‘In the last half century we lost<br />
about 80 per cent of our original farmland.’<br />
Seven of the original families who farm in<br />
Sagaponack are determined to do so as long as they<br />
can keep the taxman at bay. ‘Keep in mind no farming<br />
family who sold in Sagaponack did so for the hell of<br />
it. Death taxes forced them to,’ says Foster.<br />
Even with the temptations of ever-escalating<br />
property valuations, Foster speaks of an ‘unpersuadable<br />
resolve’ on the part of local families to<br />
hold on to their farms, ‘to get them into the next<br />
generation, to continue the dialogue with the town to<br />
preserve land tracts. Th e eff orts to conserve what<br />
remains are endless.’ Meanwhile developers covetous<br />
of the seaside farmland keep circling.<br />
Despite its ‘most expensive’ ranking two years<br />
running, Sagaponack didn’t escape the recent economic<br />
downturn unscathed. But a Hamptons recession is like<br />
few others. While Sagaponack’s average house price<br />
slipped 14.5 per cent last year, according to Businessweek,<br />
and singer Billy Joel had to lower the price of his<br />
oceanfront home from $22.5m to $18.5m, recordbreaking<br />
sales continue for certain village properties.<br />
Th e most expensive real estate transaction in the<br />
Hamptons last year involved a Sagaponack home.<br />
Hedge funder David Tepper paid $43.5m for the<br />
PRIVATESCAPE<br />
Previous page: ocean-front houses<br />
are the most desirable properties.<br />
Below and right: village properties with<br />
gardens, pools and tennis courts, such as these<br />
available though Sotheby’s International<br />
Realty, can command record-breaking prices.<br />
Bottom: Th e East End of Long Island still<br />
has some rural pockets; it is still possible to fi nd<br />
an empty beach near Sagaponack.<br />
‘Th e fact that Sagaponack isn’t commercial,<br />
that it retains its country appeal has just<br />
increased its desirability’<br />
former vacation getaway of Jon Corzine, once CEO of<br />
Goldman Sachs. (At the time of its sale the property,<br />
which commanded a summer rental fee of $900,000,<br />
was owned by Corzine’s ex-wife, Joanne Brown.) Tepper<br />
will take a wrecking ball to the house, probably setting<br />
another record as the Hamptons’ costliest tear-down.<br />
Sky-high prices remain at the top of the market,<br />
but lower-end houses in all of the Hamptons – those<br />
under $5m – have languished. Properties in the<br />
$10-15m category can see a 15–20 per cent<br />
reduction from 2007. ‘Th roughout the area buyers<br />
are taking longer to commit,’ says Fritzi Kallop, a<br />
managing director at Brown Harris Stevens.<br />
Ambivalent buyers are more likely to rent for a<br />
season or two before purchasing an important<br />
property, one reason why the <strong>2011</strong> rental season<br />
promises to be a strong one. ‘So far it’s phenomenal,’<br />
says Jane Gill, vice-president at real estate fi rm<br />
Saunders and Associates.<br />
Forty-Eight<br />
IMAGES�©�JAKE�RAJS��GORGDON�M��GRANT��PHOTOLIBRARY��SPLASHNEWS�COM
And while weekend traffi c along Route 27, the<br />
major road that connects Southampton with Montauk<br />
Point, hasn’t dropped from its pre-recession levels,<br />
some of the frenetic socialising has. Th e gridlocked<br />
main roads may be as much a reason for the party<br />
fall-off as the shrunken stock portfolios of the last few<br />
years. For those in Sagaponack and nearby towns who<br />
do venture forth on a weekend night (avoiding Route<br />
27 by taking the back roads), a favourite destination is<br />
Mirko’s, where billionaire regulars include Pete<br />
Petersen, Henry Kravis, Edgar Bronfman and<br />
Jonathan Tisch. Margaret Th atcher and the Clintons<br />
have also stopped by. In Easthampton, Nick & Toni’s<br />
has been a celebrity watering hole for years, drawing<br />
Hollywood A-listers like Steven Spielberg, Tom<br />
Hanks, and Brad Pitt. (A sure hot spot this summer is<br />
Nobu, just opened at Southampton’s Capri hotel.)<br />
You don’t need reservations for the local beaches,<br />
just a coveted parking permit. Th is being the<br />
Hamptons, celebrity sightings are common, as are<br />
weekend crowds. Sagaponack residents without<br />
shoreline property, who are looking for more privacy<br />
than the village beaches at Sagg Main and Gibson<br />
Lane provide, can apply for membership at the nearby<br />
Bridgehampton Tennis and Surf Club. Beachfront<br />
clubs like East Hampton’s Maidstone ( Jacqueline<br />
Kennedy Onassis’s paternal family, the Bouviers, were<br />
prominent members), and the Southampton Bathing<br />
Corporation, for decades a hangout for Fords,<br />
Murrays and McDonnells, are tough to crack with<br />
years-long waiting lists.<br />
Unlike most places even mega-money often had<br />
little traction at these blue-blood bastions, so new<br />
clubs sprouted to absorb plutocrats with no place to<br />
golf – the Atlantic in the early 90s, the Bridge and<br />
the Sebonack Golf Club in the last decade. Initiation<br />
fees are hefty, ranging from $600,000 to $1,000,000<br />
– fi gures that refl ect the cost of the Hampton acreage<br />
needed to carve out the golf links.<br />
Th e weak dollar of the last half-decade has<br />
brought a more eclectic crowd to the Hamptons.<br />
You’ll hear French, German and Italian accents<br />
ordering the $75-a-pound lobster salad at<br />
Sagaponack’s Loaves and Fishes or fresh peaches and<br />
white corn at Pike’s Farm Stand on Sagg Main Street.<br />
Argentinean polo whizz Nacho Figueras is renting in<br />
Sagaponack again this summer, says Jane Gill, who<br />
brokered the deal. Fritzi Kallop rents her house on<br />
East Hampton’s Further Lane to an English family<br />
each August for $120,000.<br />
Even with the overseas infl ux, the Hamptons are<br />
still largely a preserve of East Coast elites. ‘Th is is<br />
not an international resort like St Tropez,’ notes<br />
Steven Gaines – although you might think<br />
otherwise on summer weekends, when the<br />
population booms (to double, even quintuple its<br />
year-round size), the country lanes are clogged with<br />
Mercedes and Maseratis, and a fi lm festival’s worth<br />
of celebrities pop up at area restaurants. So much for<br />
the hope that the fi nancial hurricane of 2008 might<br />
have washed some of the fl ash and excess out to sea.<br />
Besides, nostalgia for an older, gentler countryside is<br />
hard to come by for anyone who bought on the East<br />
End in the last decade or two – many towns were<br />
glossed up by then.<br />
Fortunately, many long-time Sagaponack<br />
residents have similar memories of an alternative<br />
Hamptons. Fortunately, too, some newcomers, yearn<br />
for the times they never knew, for the Hamptons they<br />
see in faded pictures at local historical societies. Th ey<br />
want something more than a suburbanised resort<br />
town for their summer getaway. Both groups know<br />
that for Sagaponack, the cost of remaining a bucolic<br />
throwback increases each year. Land values will keep<br />
soaring. Th ose who want in will pay any admission<br />
price. Th e future of Sagaponack depends on who will<br />
be listening as big money continues to call.<br />
Forty-Nine<br />
<strong>SUMMER</strong>�<br />
CALENDAR�<br />
While the recession has<br />
reduced the number of benefi ts,<br />
here are the ones that bring out<br />
the area’s biggest names.<br />
��JULY<br />
parrish�art�museum�midsummer�<br />
party (www.parrishart.org,<br />
+1 631 283 2118, ext 33 or 42)<br />
A fund-raising event that mixes<br />
old-time blue bloods with the<br />
hedge-fund crowd.<br />
���JULY<br />
super�saturday�benefit�for�<br />
ovarian�cancer�research<br />
(www.ocrf.org) Established to<br />
honour the memory of former<br />
British Vogue and Harper’s<br />
Bazaar editor Liz Tilberis. More<br />
than 200 designers participate.<br />
���JULY<br />
summer�benefit�at�the�watermill�<br />
center�(www.watermillcenter.org,<br />
+1 212 253 7484 ext 10) This<br />
summer bash given by theatre<br />
and multimedia impresario<br />
Robert Wilson’s Watermill<br />
Center is an art world must.<br />
Miranda Richardson, Emily<br />
Mortimer and Calvin Klein<br />
a� ended last year’s event.<br />
��AUGUST<br />
southampton�hospital’s�<br />
annual�summer�party�<br />
(www.southamptonhospital.org,<br />
+1 631 726 8700 ext 3 or 7) Old<br />
Southampton and new come<br />
out to party for this local<br />
institution. Bushes, Buccellatis,<br />
and other big names aplenty!<br />
���AUGUST<br />
guild�hall�summer�gala<br />
(www.guildhall.org, +1 631 324 0806)<br />
draws starchitects, models, a<br />
sma� ering of Hollywood-in-the<br />
Hamptons regulars, and<br />
investment bankers to support<br />
East Hampton’s museum and<br />
John Drew theatre.
PRIVATTRAVEL<br />
ICE�SAFARI<br />
John Rendall, best known for his work in wildlife<br />
preservation in Africa, goes on a very diff erent<br />
wilderness adventure to Antarctica<br />
The late George Adamson was my<br />
introduction to wildlife<br />
preservation. My relationship with<br />
him began in Swinging London in the<br />
1960s when a fellow Aussie and I bought a<br />
lion cub called Christian in Harrods pet<br />
department, as you could in those days. He<br />
lived with us in our fl at and became famous<br />
among the Chelsea crowd, but when he got<br />
too big we took him to George, who had<br />
found fame with Born Free and the story of<br />
Elsa the lioness. George successfully<br />
reintroduced Christian to the wild, but<br />
when we visited him the following year he<br />
recognised us. Th e fi lm of him running<br />
towards us and not killing but kissing us<br />
made its way onto YouTube, where it has<br />
been watched by 100 million people. Th is<br />
was the start of a lifelong fascination with<br />
conservation for me, and I remain a trustee<br />
of the George Adamson Wildlife<br />
Preservation Trust.<br />
Because of my lion Christian and his<br />
rehabilitation by George Adamson, I had a<br />
privileged introduction to the wilderness<br />
areas of East Africa, where the vistas are so<br />
IMAGE�©�NATIONAL�GEOGRAPHIC
Above: a humpback<br />
whale surfaces in the<br />
Weddell Sea.<br />
Right: a leopard<br />
seal on an ice fl oe<br />
<strong>THE</strong>�HEROIC�<br />
AGE�OF�<br />
ANTARCTIC�<br />
EXPLORERS<br />
vast you can see the curvature of the earth and<br />
individual stars and galaxies can be clearly identifi ed<br />
without light pollution from cities. It was also an<br />
awakening to the sheer rawness of the survival and<br />
diversity of wildlife in Africa. It is a savage yet fragile<br />
balance, threatened by the demand on land for<br />
domestic farming, by disease and habitat degradation.<br />
Th ese threats are well recognised by an aware<br />
consensus of world opinion, facilitated by the relative<br />
ease of visiting the great National Parks of Africa.<br />
However, alarmingly similar threats are aff ecting the<br />
remotest wilderness area in the world, the Antarctic,<br />
which is not so easy to access, as it takes both far<br />
more commitment and time.<br />
However, when I was off ered the opportunity to<br />
visit I seized the chance of embarking on a more<br />
southerly safari. Th e most eff ective route is via Ushuaia,<br />
the southernmost city in the world and capital of<br />
Tierra del Fuego in Argentina. Th e city nestles at the<br />
1901–04<br />
Robin Falcon Sco� sailed in the Discovery, with Ernest<br />
Shackleton and Edward Wilson, to try and reach the<br />
South Pole. They reached 82º south but were defeated<br />
by snow-blindness and scurvy<br />
PRIVATTRAVEL<br />
Fifty-Two<br />
1907–09<br />
Shackleton’s Nimrod expedition,<br />
with Wild, Adams and Marshall,<br />
came within 97 miles of the Pole.<br />
Defeated when supplies ran out<br />
1911<br />
Roald Amundsen, with his dog teams,<br />
reached the Pole on 14 December.<br />
His well-equipped men included<br />
the Olympic skier Olav Bjaalard
Above right:<br />
a leopard seal<br />
hunting a penguin.<br />
Above far right:<br />
an albatross in<br />
eff ortless fl ight<br />
IMAGE�©�PHOTOLIBRARY<br />
1912<br />
Sco� ’s fi ve-man team reached the South Pole<br />
on 17 January, a month a� er Amundsen, but<br />
all died, including Captain Oates (of ‘I may be<br />
some time’ fame) and their ponies<br />
PRIVATTRAVEL<br />
southern tip of the Andes Mountains and was the<br />
departure port for my expedition organised by<br />
Antarctic and Arctic expedition specialists Angie<br />
Butler and Caro Mantella’s company, Ice Tracks. Th e<br />
town’s Wild West atmosphere, with its bustling<br />
chandlers and Antarctic travel outfi tters, is vibrant and<br />
colourful, with distinctive corrugated-iron buildings;<br />
the town grew up around its jail, where the most<br />
notorious Argentine criminals were once incarcerated.<br />
From this outpost it is a two-day voyage across<br />
the notoriously unpredictable Drake Passage to the<br />
Antarctic Peninsula. In the middle of the Passage you<br />
cross the Antarctic Convergence, where the nutrientrich<br />
Antarctic waters meet the more temperate waters<br />
of the South Atlantic. Here I saw my fi rst albatross<br />
and encountered the world of the krill, a 6cm<br />
shrimp-like creature which is the key to the survival<br />
of mammals, sea birds and indeed all life in the<br />
Antarctic. Crucially, it is a vital factor in carbon<br />
processing and the most prolifi c species on earth.<br />
My fi rst albatross was a glorious sight (no wonder<br />
the Ancient Mariner was cursed by his fellow crew<br />
members for shooting one), and I marvelled at the<br />
grace of its eff ortless fl ight. A wandering albatross can<br />
live for 60 years and weigh up to 85kg, and has the<br />
largest wingspan of any bird – over three metres. A<br />
tagged bird was once recorded as fl ying 25,000km in<br />
nine weeks. Th ere were also humpback and minke<br />
whales to escort my ship, the polar explorer Marina<br />
Svetaeva, crewed by stoical Russians, who seemed<br />
oblivious to the cold. However, the chef was<br />
1911–1914<br />
Mawson’s<br />
companions died<br />
while crossing<br />
George V Land<br />
1914–16<br />
Shackleton failed to make the fi rst transcontinental<br />
crossing of Antarctica. The Endurance was crushed by<br />
ice but Shackleton still managed to save the lives of<br />
all his men<br />
Fifty-Three<br />
Argentinian and the sous chefs were Filipino, so there<br />
wasn’t a bowl of borscht in sight for the 14-day trip.<br />
Because the Marina Svetaeva is strengthened for<br />
polar expeditions with a Lloyd’s 100-1-A rating, we<br />
were able to enter the Weddell Sea, smashing through<br />
the ice, while cathedral-sized icebergs drifted by. Th eir<br />
blue tinge is a refl ection from the water but it appears<br />
as if some giant brush has been used to paint stripes<br />
of cobalt through the crevices. Each iceberg was a<br />
sculpture, each worthy of a portrait but impossible to<br />
do justice to with a camera. Th is is where so many<br />
dramas of the heroic age of Antarctic exploration<br />
were played out, notably Robert Falcon Scott’s<br />
doomed expedition. Angie Butler is an expert on this<br />
era and her talks, which are an integral part of the<br />
voyage, reveal the tragedies, errors of judgement and<br />
the often poor planning of these expeditions, which<br />
were then the equivalent of space exploration.<br />
As dramatic as the history was, it was the animals<br />
I had come to see. Th e most exhilarating but<br />
shockingly savage highlight of any safari in Africa is<br />
to witness a lion kill, to observe the very process of<br />
survival by a species, when a pride of lion successfully<br />
stalk, kill and devour their prey. It is a well-planned<br />
attack, with the lions working together as a team to<br />
secure the future of the whole pride, including the<br />
vulnerable cubs. I have witnessed many and have<br />
never ceased to be amazed by the violence and drama,<br />
but nothing prepared me for the shock of witnessing<br />
a leopard seal killing a gentoo penguin in the Weddell<br />
Sea. Here there was no visible plan or warning of an<br />
1922<br />
The Quest expedition<br />
ended prematurely with<br />
the death of Shackleton<br />
on South Georgia
In the Zodiac I came<br />
close enough to a humpback<br />
whale to realise it had<br />
very bad halitosis<br />
attack – just a sudden surge from the water and a<br />
snapping of jaws, which left the penguin no escape.<br />
Adding to the intensity of the drama was the fact that<br />
I was so close, because each day we left the ship with<br />
a guide in infl atable Zodiac boats, which took us onto<br />
the shore or the ice.<br />
Penguins are unafraid of people, and the chicks,<br />
waiting patiently for their parents to return from<br />
fi shing, pecked hopefully at our legs. But as sweet as<br />
they look, I hadn’t expected the smell! Of course it<br />
makes sense when you see the piles of guano around<br />
them and their rudimentary nests consisting of a few<br />
stones pushed together. Th ere are over 20 diff erent<br />
species of penguin but only two, the emperor (the<br />
stars of the movie Happy Feet) and the Adélie, live<br />
their whole lives in the Antarctic; the others are<br />
migratory, only visiting the Antarctic to breed.<br />
Th e other unexpected smell was from a humpback<br />
whale. In the Zodiac I was close enough to a blowing<br />
humpback to realise it had very bad halitosis! It was<br />
also at least twice as long as the Zodiac, and I was<br />
relieved we never got so near the southern blue whale,<br />
which is the size of a Boeing 747, weighs up to 190<br />
tons, and eats 3,600kg of krill a day. Th e largest ever<br />
recorded was 33.6m. It has been estimated that over<br />
two million whales have been killed in the Southern<br />
Ocean and that the remaining population represents<br />
only fi ve per cent of that number. Other animals have<br />
been successfully protected, however.<br />
PRIVATTRAVEL<br />
Demand for seal fur reduced the Antarctic fur seal<br />
to just 30 pairs on Bird Island, near South Georgia, at<br />
one point, but today there are three to four million thanks<br />
to their protected status, established by the Antarctic<br />
Treaty. However seals, like all the other wildlife in the<br />
Antarctic, are still threatened by overfi shing, drift nets<br />
and long lines, lead sinkers and fi sh hooks, collision<br />
with ships, oceanic fl otsam and oil spillage. It is a<br />
formidable list. I feel strongly that if more of the<br />
world’s movers and shakers were to see (and smell)<br />
these animals in their natural habitat then awareness<br />
could be raised, which is the reason I wanted to write<br />
about Antarctica in this magazine. Of course many,<br />
including the Prince of Wales, do take a keen interest.<br />
My return crossing of Drake Passage was<br />
dramatically diff erent from my gently rolling outward<br />
journey. We were caught in a force 10 gale. Winds<br />
rose to 60 knots and 17-metre waves crashed over the<br />
ship. It gave me a better understanding of the disasters<br />
suff ered by the heroic-age explorers. Antarctica was<br />
my seventh continent and it has changed the way I see<br />
the world. See it for yourself and help save it.<br />
Fifty-Four<br />
Clockwise from<br />
left: the remains of<br />
an iceberg; Rendall’s<br />
mothership, the<br />
Marina Svetaeva,<br />
braves the Weddell<br />
Sea; ‘paparazzi’<br />
capture a whale<br />
surfacing beside the<br />
Zodiac; an emperor<br />
penguin chick poses<br />
TRAVEL�FACTS<br />
John travelled to Antarctica<br />
with Ice Tracks, a boutique<br />
Antarctic and Arctic expedition<br />
specialist company founded by<br />
Carolina Mantella and<br />
heroic-age authority and author<br />
Angie Butler, which operates in<br />
conjunction with One Ocean<br />
expeditions, a full member of<br />
the International Association of<br />
Antarctic Tour Operators. <strong>2011</strong>/<br />
2012 expeditions start on 28<br />
November, through to mid-<br />
March 2012. The prime One<br />
Ocean Suite is $18,000 but<br />
private charters for the whole<br />
ship are also available (rates by<br />
negotiation), contact Angie<br />
Butler, www.ice-tracks.com<br />
IMAGES�©�NATIONAL�GEOGRAPHIC��JOHN�RENDALL
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PRIVATRESORT<br />
RELAX�AND�UNWIND�<br />
Celestria Noel reviews Maradiva, a new luxury<br />
retreat on the Indian Ocean island of Mauritius<br />
The Indian Ocean is home to three<br />
major luxury destinations, the Maldives,<br />
the Seychelles and Mauritius. Each can<br />
supply sun, sand and sea, as well as levels of<br />
service that have made the Caribbean struggle to<br />
keep pace. But Mauritius, a big island as opposed<br />
to an archipelago, has an added ingredient in its<br />
culture and history. Th e island, having been<br />
discovered by the Portuguese, who did not stay,<br />
then became French, with slave labour brought<br />
in from East Africa, and fi nally British, with<br />
workers from India, before gaining its<br />
independence. Th e resulting mix is by and large<br />
successful and happy. Mauritians may be of<br />
European descent or Indian, African or a<br />
mixture of all three. Th e law means that all must<br />
be fairly represented in the government. Almost<br />
all speak a French-based Creole among<br />
themselves but also speak both English and<br />
Fifty-Seven<br />
French. Th e result is an island which is well<br />
suited to global hospitality.<br />
In practice many of the most successful<br />
entrepreneurs on the island today are of Indian<br />
descent. One of these, Sanjiv Ramdanee, decided<br />
that he would like to establish a Mauritianowned<br />
luxury resort that was not part of a<br />
multinational group and never would be. What’s<br />
more, he decided to locate the resort, Maradiva<br />
Resort Villas & Spa, on the west coast, where<br />
many of the island’s wealthiest families have<br />
homes. It is near the island’s smartest golf course<br />
and an old established sailing club, where most<br />
of the members are what is known locally as<br />
Franco-Mauritian. By contrast most of the<br />
island’s well-known and long-established grand<br />
hotels, such as the One and Only Le St Géran<br />
and the Royal Palm, are clustered along the<br />
scenic north-east coast.
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Th e most obvious benefi t of looking westwards is<br />
of course the sunset, but in addition the coastline is<br />
fl atter on the west coast, providing a sweeping beach,<br />
and a shallow, calm lagoon, with a small reef half a<br />
mile out. Th ere is more elbow room on this coast,<br />
allowing the all-villa hotel a huge 27-acre site with<br />
only 65 villas on it. Th e grounds have been<br />
exceptionally well landscaped, with carefully<br />
thought-out vistas, and it will improve as it matures.<br />
Th e villas have been sited so that they off er privacy,<br />
but most back onto a grassy space through which you<br />
can wander down to the tree-lined shore. If you want<br />
extreme privacy there are several villas with garden<br />
walls, but most gardens are open to the beach.<br />
Nevertheless my plunge pool (big enough for lengths)<br />
was secluded enough for a morning dip au naturel.<br />
At the beach, even during a time of high<br />
occupancy (I went in the Christmas holidays), there<br />
were always plenty of places to park oneself in<br />
comfort and well away from anyone else. Th e beach<br />
is not technically private, but hawkers, all too<br />
familiar in the Caribbean, are few and far between<br />
in this out of the way spot. Th ere are, however, one<br />
or two people to watch as they ride by on horses,<br />
which the hotel can organise for guests if desired.<br />
A typical dinner was<br />
smoked marlin with palm<br />
heart tartare or coconut<br />
heart salad with white<br />
truffle or maybe seared<br />
prawns with taro leaves<br />
PRIVATRESORT<br />
Th e hotel’s water sports are<br />
concentrated at one end of the<br />
beach but were hardly intrusive<br />
anyway. I never heard a single<br />
jet-ski or speedboat all week.<br />
As with any new resort there<br />
have been teething problems with<br />
some inexperienced staff in the<br />
lower echelons. For this rarefi ed<br />
level the service was not quite there<br />
yet, a fact that was acknowledged<br />
and is being dealt with. Th e staff with whom you actually interacted on the<br />
other hand, such as the bar staff and waiters, were all top-notch, friendly<br />
and smiling but not in-your-face. Th e breakfast staff always remembered<br />
preferences and gave one a warm welcome. Breakfast, incidentally, included<br />
a cabaret of very tame birds eating the leftover fruit.<br />
Th ere are two restaurants, the more formal and enclosed Cilantro,<br />
where the food is pan-Asian, and the all-day Coast2Coast, open-sided and<br />
on the beach, next to the bar by the main pool. Th e food was outstanding<br />
with a French chef using many local ingredients. I hate to use the muchabused<br />
word fusion – the food is more French than that – but neither is it<br />
bland international luxury cuisine. A typical dinner was smoked marlin with<br />
palm heart tartare, or coconut heart salad with white truffl e, velouté of roast<br />
and smoked pumpkin, followed by seared prawns with taro leaves, or stewed<br />
lamb. Th e pumpkin soup, which was outstanding, and the lamb are French<br />
comfort food – not really what you immediately think of eating by the<br />
Indian ocean. However the mixture worked surprisingly well as, spoilt<br />
though it sounds, you can get seafood fatigue – though I can usually force<br />
myself to eat more lobster. Th e wine list is predominately French but there<br />
are New World and South African choices. South Africa is not far away, in<br />
fact racehorses from there are shipped over to race at the track in Port<br />
Louis, the island’s capital, in SA’s off season.<br />
Fifty-Nine<br />
Previous spread:<br />
the infi nity pool at<br />
Maradiva.<br />
Top: each villa has<br />
its own pool just<br />
outside the bedroom.<br />
Left: there is plenty<br />
of room on the treefringed<br />
beach.<br />
Middle: each huge<br />
bathroom also has a<br />
private outdoor area
You can in theory ask for a light diet, as recommended by<br />
the spa’s ayurvedic practitioner, but hedonistic wellbeing is<br />
more Maradiva’s style than serious destination-spa detoxing.<br />
Th e spa element is best treated as an all-round relaxation<br />
experience. For instance, the yoga classes are fi ne but not of the<br />
calibre you would expect at a dedicated yoga retreat. Th e spa<br />
has its own building with a pool and tranquil treatment rooms.<br />
It off ers a range of treatments, massages, wraps and facials,<br />
mainly with an Asian feel and some specifi cally ayurvedic, and<br />
designed to be healing as well as pure beauty treatments. Th e<br />
staff were both male and female, and all experienced and<br />
intelligent, and mercifully not too chatty. Th ey were fl exible<br />
about changes of plan and the whole thing ran effi ciently to<br />
time, without you ever feeling hurried.<br />
Resorts like Maradiva tend to be self-contained but there are<br />
plenty of excursions to be had, either taking a boat down the very<br />
beautiful coast – perfect for the late afternoon, with the sun<br />
setting in the direction of Africa on your right and the coastal<br />
plain, with mountains behind, to the left. Not far away is a busy<br />
fi shing port and in the opposite direction the lively small town of<br />
Flic en Flac, with bars and shops. Th e capital, Port Louis, whose<br />
colonial centre survives, along with a fort overlooking the<br />
harbour, is about 45 minutes away. You can see the last poor dodo,<br />
stuff ed and in a museum, and shop in a vast covered market, and<br />
there are some good restaurants, especially Chinese and Indian.<br />
Ramdanee sees Maradiva as more contemporary in style<br />
than some of the existing hotels of the island, more relaxed with<br />
its all-villa plan and suitable for sophisticated families and<br />
individuals from Europe but also from India, Russia and the<br />
PRIVATRESORT<br />
Top: the hotel’s<br />
Presidential Villa.<br />
Above: the spacious<br />
spa has tranquil<br />
treatment rooms<br />
Sixty<br />
Th e all-villa concept attract s<br />
sophist icated families from<br />
India, Russia and the Gulf<br />
Gulf, which is not very far. Ramdanee aims to off er the sort of<br />
service and fl exibility that he thinks only a privately owned<br />
resort, run on an individual basis, can really provide. Having said<br />
that, it is not over the top – butlers are confi ned to the top-of-the<br />
range villas, for example, though other staff will do their best to<br />
give you anything you need. You don’t have to dress up much, but<br />
a fashionable element was injected while I was there by the<br />
presence of a pop-up boutique, an outpost of Clickini.com. Its<br />
elegant Irish founder, Jonathan McKeever, sells designer dresses<br />
and cover-ups online as well as swimwear. He found that wealthy,<br />
fashion-conscious local women come to shop at Mauritius’s<br />
upmarket hotels; Port Louis boutiques do not run to Heidi Klein<br />
so the fi ve-stars are centres of sophistication on the island.<br />
However Mauritius is becoming an ever more popular<br />
destination for the super rich. Th e recent opening of YU Lounge<br />
(www.yulounge.com), a dedicated full-service private terminal at<br />
the airport, by GAM (General Aviation Mauritius) refl ects the<br />
growing popularity of Mauritius for users of private aviation. Th e<br />
timely arrival of Maradiva on the scene gives the island, best<br />
known for its somewhat stately hotels, a new string to its bow.<br />
Celestria Noel travelled as a guest of Air Mauritius and To Escape To,<br />
who specialise in Africa, the Indian Ocean and South America;<br />
www.toescapeto.com
TIMELESS STYLE<br />
ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE<br />
Luxury Swiss watchmaker Jean-Mairet & Gillman unveils its UK<br />
brand ambassador, international England cricketer Stuart Broad<br />
JEAN-MAIRET�&�GILLMAN��JMG��IS<br />
proud to introduce its UK brand ambassador,<br />
international England cricketer Stuart Broad,<br />
who will represent the exclusive watch brand here.<br />
Cricket is a gentleman’s sport, a perfect synergy<br />
for a high-profi le watch brand renowned for its<br />
sophisticated gentlemen’s timepieces.<br />
Stuart originally started his career as an opening<br />
batsman, following in the footsteps of his father<br />
Chris, the former England opener and current ICC<br />
match referee. Stuart was a vital member of the<br />
victorious 2009 Ashes squad, and was Man of the<br />
Match in the deciding Test at the Oval, with fi gures<br />
of 5/37. His bowling was also pivotal to England’s<br />
World Cup victory at the 2010 ICC T20 tournament.<br />
In August 2010 Stuart and Jonathan Trott put on<br />
332 runs for the 8th wicket – a world record – fi rmly<br />
establishing Stuart as a genuine all-rounder.<br />
JMG president Uday Nayak, while offi cially<br />
launching the luxury brand in the UK market,<br />
commented: “Stuart Broad has a strong appeal,<br />
not only in the UK but at a global level as well. In<br />
a striking similarity to the JMG brand, he comes<br />
with a strong lineage in his sport. He has a unique,<br />
elegant style and all-round fi nesse – all of which are<br />
hallmarks of the JMG brand. We are thrilled at the<br />
prospect of working with Stuart.”<br />
In response Stuart Broad commented: “I am<br />
proud to work with such an innovative brand; the<br />
timepieces are stylish and unique and I look forward<br />
to a successful relationship.”<br />
Th e Jean-Mairet & Gillman brand, founded in<br />
1999, is a fi tting continuation of the rich horological<br />
heritage of its founder, Cesar Jean-Mairet. Th e<br />
product lines are classic yet contemporary and<br />
designed for the connoisseur. Each collection is<br />
unique in style and produced in limited series,<br />
making JMG timepieces hugely desirable and<br />
highly coveted. JMG has carved a discreet presence<br />
for itself in the world of niche watchmaking and as a<br />
brand is focused on innovation. It currently uses two<br />
of its own watch movements and is dedicated to the<br />
development of a Geneva Seal movement.<br />
For further information please contact Jean-Mairet & Gillman.<br />
Stockist enquiry line: +44 (0)20 7602 4422, www.jeanmairetgillman.com.<br />
Continentes Côtes de Genève, £15,650.
PRIVATFASHION<br />
TURKISH�DELIGHT<br />
Istanbul, where Europe and Asia meet, is the ideal<br />
place to celebrate the orientalist mood pervading<br />
this season’s designer styles<br />
Black blouse by Sasha Moon;<br />
long printed skirt by Erdem<br />
at matchesfashion.com;<br />
necklace and headpiece<br />
by Pebble London; golden<br />
cuff s and long neck chain by<br />
Chanel; headscarf by Yves<br />
Saint Laurent Vintage
PRIVATFASHION<br />
Him: black jacket by Paul<br />
and Joe; white co� on shirt<br />
by Martin Margiela at<br />
brownsfashion.com;<br />
black trousers by Dior;<br />
embroidered belt by<br />
Pebble London<br />
Sixty-Four<br />
Her: black jacket by DKNY; piqué shirt<br />
by Alexander McQueen; printed-silk<br />
trousers by Dries Van Noten at<br />
brownsfashion.com; bracelets and big<br />
necklace by Pebble London; pendant<br />
by Lanvin; headscarf by Paul Smith at<br />
my-wardrobe.com
Printed jumpsuit and<br />
headscarf by Halston at<br />
my-wardrobe.com; golden<br />
sandals and chain by Chanel;<br />
bracelets and big necklaces<br />
by Pebble London; scarf<br />
around shoulders by Lo�
Chiff on blouse by Chanel; co� on trousers<br />
by Lanvin at matchesfashion.com;<br />
big golden pendant and necklace by<br />
Pebble London; small neck chain and<br />
black cuff by Chanel; headscarf by<br />
Burberry at brownsfashion.com
Him: blue co� on shirt by John<br />
Varvatos; embroidered cardigan by<br />
Kolor at brownsfashion.com; so� -wool<br />
trousers by Lanvin; embroidered<br />
slippers by Roberto Cavalli; ring and<br />
necklace by Pebble London<br />
Her: printed-silk dress by Adam at<br />
brownsfashion.com; blue bolero by<br />
Marni at brownsfashion.com; strapped<br />
heels by Sophie Gi� ins; headscarf by<br />
Gucci at matchesfashion.com;<br />
jewellery by Pebble London<br />
PRIVATFASHION<br />
Sixty-Seven<br />
photographer Ayten Alpun / stylist Nino Bauti / photographer’s�<br />
assistants Liana Kesenci and Kubra Alptekin / hair Huseyin Aydin<br />
/ make-up Hamiyet Akpınar / retouching Liana Kesenci / female�<br />
model�Goksun Cam / male�model Aristotelis/Ice Models<br />
the�location�Photography in this feature took place at the Hotel<br />
Les O� omans, an exquisitely restored 18th-century waterfront<br />
residence, now one of the most luxurious and exclusive hotels in Turkey,<br />
tel: +90 212 359 1500, info@leso� omans.com, www.leso� omans.com<br />
special�thanks�to Seda Consulting Limited. Seda Consulting<br />
Limited provides PR and marketing services for Turkish<br />
businesses aiming to expand their brand recognition in the UK,<br />
tel: +44 (0)20 8343 0085, www.sedaconsulting.co.uk
PRIVATJEWELS<br />
Gems are back at the heart of contemporary<br />
high jewellery, says Vivienne Becker, and<br />
the bigger the better<br />
new mood has crept up on the high jewellery world,<br />
a renewed focus on important, ultra-precious and<br />
rare gemstones that delivers a fresh power and<br />
purity of statement and design. Th is is almost like<br />
a cleansing of the palette, a breathing space after<br />
the onslaught of wild, almost delirious colour<br />
and creativity that produced complicated and<br />
complex narrative high-jewellery designs of almost<br />
unprecedented fl amboyance.<br />
Now the trend towards ‘slow design’ – something<br />
pure and peaceful and essential – has joined forces<br />
with the prevailing preoccupation with the signifi cant<br />
gemstone as a traditional, safe store of wealth, to<br />
redirect attention in high jewellery onto spectacular,<br />
precious stones. Th is in eff ect marks a return to the true<br />
essence of high jewellery; although, where once the<br />
conventional, rather dowdy cluster was unassailable,<br />
now the hero-gem is showcased within a fresh,<br />
contemporary splendour, in settings that are classic<br />
but modernised, technically advanced, light and fl uid,<br />
designed and engineered to show stunning and rare<br />
gems to perfection.<br />
66.4 carat rare blue Paraiba<br />
tourmaline maline and diamond<br />
necklace lace by Harry Winston
PRIVATJEWELS<br />
Seventy<br />
Left: two- and four-stack diamond and<br />
yellow gold Ice Cube rings by Chopard.<br />
Below left: mandarin garnet and pink<br />
spinel ring set with diamonds in<br />
platinum by Harry Winston<br />
Beverly Hills-based Robert Procop, whose new venture,<br />
Robert Procop Exceptional Jewels, is based entirely on<br />
extraordinary, important gems, explains: ‘Recession or boom,<br />
there is always demand for important gems as hard assets for<br />
investment. With gemstones, there is an element that will<br />
appreciate, and in recent years this demand has escalated; today<br />
there is an even greater opportunity for the investor, as some<br />
depressed markets are selling at the same time as emerging<br />
markets are in growth. Th ese are very active times.’<br />
His speciality and passion has been coloured diamonds,<br />
which are enjoying unprecedented popularity and value growth,<br />
but he sees too that interest in coloured stones, fi ne emeralds,<br />
rubies and sapphires is also escalating. Th is he attributes to<br />
a greater transparency and regulation in the coloured-stone<br />
industry, to better classifi cation by gemological laboratories, to<br />
education, understanding, trust and confi dence.<br />
It is true that important gems have always been perceived<br />
as tangible assets, a safe haven in troubled economic times and<br />
political turmoil, easily portable, the most highly concentrated<br />
form of intrinsic value. But what is diff erent today is not only the<br />
size and rarity of the stones in greatest demand, but also the level<br />
of in-depth, informed connoisseurship that is shaping a very real<br />
and discerning, rather than speculative, market, and the way in<br />
which this return to the purity of precious stones is inspiring a<br />
new generation of elegant, low-key, refi ned but resonant designs.<br />
Procop believes that ‘every stone has a mission of its own.<br />
Fine stones don’t need enhancement, they need a sculptural frame.<br />
It is not about any particular direction, but a mount worthy of<br />
the stone.’ In the Style of Jolie collection, a collaboration with<br />
Angeline Jolie, to benefi t her charity, Education Partnership for<br />
Children in Confl ict, Procop has set superb emeralds, rich golden<br />
citrines, shimmering green beryls and voluptuous rubellites in<br />
contemporary generously rounded frames of yellow or rose gold,<br />
or in the distinctive geometric square or rectangular “tablet” style<br />
favoured by Jolie, inspired by ancient engraved stone tablets.<br />
A stunning necklace is designed as a stream of 44 spectacular,<br />
cushion-cut emeralds, of a bright vivid green, immaculately<br />
matched, each wrapped in its rolled frame of yellow gold, a worldclass<br />
collection of gems in a setting of low-key, contemporary<br />
opulence. Other high-profi le gems in Procop’s Exceptional<br />
Jewels collection include a staggering 223 carat Sri Lankan blue<br />
sapphire, in a silky, mesmerising royal blue, the colour of nobility<br />
and contemplation, and a natural 70 carat emerald that Procop<br />
considers to be truly unique in the marketplace today.
Right: line diamond bracelet by<br />
Leviev and diamond ring by Cartier.<br />
Below right: 24.04 carat round<br />
diamond ring by Graff<br />
Th e return to the concept of embellishing or dressing an<br />
important stone also turns the spotlight back onto the world’s<br />
great classical jewellers, for whom the stone has always been the<br />
main event: Graff , Leviev, Moussaieff , Harry Winston and the<br />
more recently established Sotheby’s Diamonds, a joint venture<br />
between Sotheby’s and diamantaire Steinmetz, with talented New<br />
York designer-jeweller James de Givenchy as creative director.<br />
Last year, in New York and Washington, Harry Winston<br />
returned to its roots with the launch of a modern-day Court of<br />
Jewels, a collection of sensational diamonds and coloured gems,<br />
revitalising Winston’s original 1950s Court of Jewels travelling<br />
charity exhibition that sparked a new great age of the diamond.<br />
Th e message, now as then, is clear: Harry Winston jewellery is<br />
all about the stone. To prove the point, the highlight of last year’s<br />
Court of Jewels was the legendary blue Hope Diamond, famed<br />
for its supposed curse, and for its colourful journey through<br />
history, from the Indian mines of Golconda to the Court of Louis<br />
XIV, and later to Cartier and the ill-fated heiress Evalyn Walsh<br />
McClean, and fi nally into the hands of Harry Winston. For the<br />
recreated Court of Jewels, the Hope made a rare appearance in<br />
New York, at the Winston salon, in its new lyrical entwined ribbon<br />
setting, of white diamond baguettes, Embracing Hope, chosen<br />
from three options by the American public.<br />
Th e Hope will be shown in the new setting at the Smithsonian<br />
Museum, Washington, its permanent home, having been gifted<br />
to the nation by Harry Winston in 1958. At the end of this year,<br />
the Hope will be removed and replaced by another stone and the<br />
necklace sold to benefi t the new Harry Winston Hope Foundation,<br />
aiding education and philanthropic initiatives. Alongside the Hope,<br />
highlights of the Court of Jewels included the 71.73 carat Lesotho<br />
I diamond, the Star of Bengal ruby, a rare 66.40 carat Paraiba<br />
tourmaline and diamond necklace, a 15 carat D Flawless diamond<br />
briolette, and a superlative 30 carat Kashmir sapphire ring.<br />
No one understands the compelling beauty of gems like<br />
Laurence Graff , founder of the House of Graff . For Graff ,<br />
fabulous jewels are and have always been all about the stone,<br />
and he has always shown a single-minded dedication to creating<br />
jewels that allow his hand-selected gems to shine, pure and<br />
perfect. Th is year, the House of Graff adds the Graff Pink<br />
to the long list of historic stones that have passed through<br />
Laurence Graff ’s hands. Th e Graff Pink is a limpid, lustrous<br />
pink diamond of 23.88 carats, bought for a record price<br />
last autumn at Sotheby’s in Geneva and now subtly<br />
repolished to perfect its clarity and enhance the colour,<br />
PRIVATJEWELS<br />
Seventy-One
PRIVATJEWELS<br />
Seventy-Two<br />
Left: 282 carat pink sapphire and<br />
8.5 carat diamond white and rose<br />
gold bracelet by Chopard.<br />
Below left: emerald and diamond<br />
earrings by Graff and emerald and<br />
diamond necklace by Moussaieff<br />
from intense to vivid (the top colour grade), set into a pink gold<br />
and white diamond ring. Th is delectable, deeply emotive stone<br />
is emblematic of today’s unrelenting quest by gem connoisseurs<br />
for the truly unique. To add to its allure, the Graff Pink is type<br />
IIA, the classifi cation given to diamonds from the ancient<br />
famous and fabled Golconda mines in India. Graff talks of the<br />
diamond’s unique natural beauty, the breathtaking intensity of<br />
the sugar pink saturation that he dared to enhance to reach the<br />
absolute perfection he always craves; he believes it is the fi nest<br />
pink diamond he has ever seen.<br />
Leviev, with boutiques in London, New York, Moscow,<br />
Dubai and Singapore, off ers some of the world’s rarest and<br />
most stupendous diamonds, with a speciality of exquisitely<br />
refi ned coloured diamonds and extraordinary white diamonds,<br />
always D Flawless, mostly over 10 carats, exceedingly rare and,<br />
according to Leviev, getting rarer all the time. Leviev mines<br />
and manufacturers a sizeable chunk of the world’s diamond<br />
supplies, and takes the top one per cent of stones for its own<br />
brand. Th e investment element in such stones is, they say, a given.<br />
Th e stones are composed into contemporary classic designs, the<br />
coloured diamonds often clustered into audacious multicoloured<br />
compositions: a fl oral cluster ring, centred on a fancy vivid<br />
orange heart-shaped diamond of 1.08 carats, surrounded by<br />
seven pear- and marquise-cut coloured diamonds of diff erent<br />
hues, pink, yellow and blue. A pair of 11 carat fancy intense pink<br />
pear-shaped diamonds, of 5.61 and 5.29 carats are hung from<br />
square emerald cut white diamonds, each over two carats, to<br />
create a staggering pair of drop earrings.<br />
For Alisa Moussaieff , of Moussaieff Jewellers of London<br />
and Geneva, the diamond or coloured stone is always the<br />
starting point. She is known as one of the leading diamond<br />
dealers in the world, but superb coloured stones, and especially<br />
emeralds, also share the diamond’s limelight in her most recent<br />
creations. One of the latest compositions, a dramatic necklace,<br />
follows the silhouettes of a river of drop-shaped emeralds,<br />
cradling each divinely coloured stone in an undulating wave of<br />
pavé diamonds, hung at the side with a lush tassel of briolette<br />
diamonds and emerald drops; the necklace is set with a total of<br />
166.64 carats of emeralds and 134.01 carats of diamonds.<br />
Today, high jewellery is all about the stone: the stone as hero,<br />
investment and inspiration; it’s about the quest for the ultimate<br />
rarity, the ultimate possession. As Robert Procop says, it’s the<br />
ultimate treasure hunt. s
ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE<br />
<strong>THE</strong> STYLISH WAY TO SHOP<br />
VERSACE��CAVALLI��DOLCE�&�GABBANA��MISSONI��<br />
Calvin Klein, Aspesi, Trussardi… the list of brands available<br />
at McArthurGlen Designer Outlets reads like a who’s who of<br />
designer labels. Found in close proximity to major fashion hubs<br />
throughout the UK and Continental Europe the outlets have all<br />
been thoughtfully designed by some of the world’s fi nest<br />
architects. An attraction in their own right, the outlets, which<br />
are often set amid stunning countryside, present an unmissable<br />
opportunity to combine an urban getaway, exploring some of<br />
Europe’s most exciting cities, with a luxury shopping spree. Each<br />
outlet is a miniature shopping paradise featuring open courtyards<br />
decorated with sculptures and fountains, wide boulevards<br />
bordered with fl owers, children’s play areas and numerous cafés<br />
and restaurants where you can refuel. Pastel-coloured boutiques<br />
line the streets, enticing shoppers in with their sumptuous<br />
window displays. Although little temptation is needed to fl ex<br />
your plastic when discounts of 30–70 per cent are widely available<br />
throughout the stores.<br />
A�WHIRL�OF�A�TIME<br />
What better way to complement the grand city of Vienna with<br />
its compact centre of magnifi cent architecture, stunning parks,<br />
operas and fi ne art than with a shopping spree to Designer Outlet<br />
Parndorf, which lies just outside the city centre. It is home to over<br />
Discerning fashionist as seeking high-end designer labels<br />
make a beeline for McArthurGlen Designer Outlets<br />
IN�AUSTRIA<br />
Vienna: Designer Outlet<br />
Parndorf boasts vibrant,<br />
colourful buildings, inspired by<br />
the local Burgenland style, and<br />
is home to 600 designer brands.<br />
Salzburg: Designer<br />
Outlet Salzburg, with its<br />
magnifi cent glass-vaulted<br />
atrium, is adjacent to the city’s<br />
international W A Mozart<br />
airport and just 10 minutes<br />
from the city centre.<br />
IN�<strong>THE</strong>�<br />
NE<strong>THE</strong>RLANDS<br />
Roermond: Created in<br />
harmony with its rich, historic<br />
setting, Designer Outlet<br />
Roermond is located just 30<br />
minutes from Dusseldorf and is<br />
open seven days a week.
IN�ITALY<br />
Florence and Tuscany:<br />
Inspired by the architecture<br />
of the noble Renaissance villas<br />
of Mugello, the Barberino<br />
Designer Outlet is only 30<br />
minutes from Florence. Th e<br />
beautiful River Sieve fl ows<br />
through the centre with a<br />
series of footbridges connecting<br />
the stores.<br />
Milan and Portofi no:<br />
Nestled in the heart of the<br />
Piemonte region, Serravalle<br />
Designer Outlet with its<br />
striking Ligurian architecture<br />
off ers more than enough choice<br />
to entice any shopper.<br />
Naples and the Amalfi Coast:<br />
La Reggia Designer Outlet<br />
boasts a neoclassical Bourbon<br />
style. Just a 45-minute drive<br />
from the centre of Naples,<br />
it is also easily reached from<br />
Caserta and Salerno, the Amalfi<br />
Coast, Capri and Sorrento.<br />
Venice: With its mosaics and<br />
frescos, luxury lies at the heart<br />
of the exquisite Veneto Designer<br />
Outlet. Th e palazzos of Venice<br />
are just 45 minutes away.<br />
Rome: Located just 30 minutes<br />
south of one of the most exciting<br />
and romantic capitals in the<br />
world, Castel Romano Designer<br />
Outlet off ers spectacular views<br />
of the Tyrrhenian Sea.<br />
600 designer brands, including some of fashion’s biggest names:<br />
Zegna, Belstaff , Tommy Hilfi ger… Alternatively just 10 minutes<br />
from Salzburg city centre the Designer Outlet Salzburg off ers a<br />
mix of top designer, high street and sports brands, such as Hugo<br />
Boss, Strenesse and Jil Sander as well as a full range of cafés and<br />
restaurants, and a children’s crèche.<br />
LA�DOLCE�VITA<br />
Home to some of fashion’s most revered designers, Italy is<br />
synonymous with style, elegance and glamour and as such is a<br />
popular destination for well-heeled travellers. With fi ve designer<br />
outlets: Naples, Milan, Rome, Florence and Venice,<br />
McArthurGlen’s Italian outlets abound with sumptuous brands<br />
such as Valentino, Brioni and Sergio Rossi. Th eir proximity to<br />
Italy’s most inspiring cities, as well as their stunning architecture<br />
and leafy settings, ensure they provide a great day out for style<br />
hunters and families alike.<br />
ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE
DUTCH�DELIGHT<br />
Meanwhile for those travelling in the Netherlands, the Roermond<br />
Designer Outlet is ideally located in the Dutch province of<br />
Limburg, between Dusseldorf and Maastricht. Th is superb<br />
shopping destination – favoured by fashion savvy shoppers in the<br />
Netherlands, Germany and Belgium – is teeming with brands such<br />
as Hugo Boss, Escada and Dolce & Gabbana. And unlike most of<br />
its more traditional contemporaries, it’s open seven days a week.<br />
GETTING�<strong>THE</strong>RE<br />
All the shopping centres – McArthurGlen has 20 Designer<br />
Outlets in nine diff erent countries – can be easily reached by<br />
taxi, private transfer from your hotel or by regular shuttle buses<br />
from the nearby city centres, and if you’re arriving by car there’s<br />
ample parking at all the outlets.<br />
For more information on how to get to a McArthurGlen Designer Outlet<br />
and what is on off er at each centre, visit mcarthurglen.com<br />
WHERE�TO�SHOP<br />
AUSTRIA<br />
Designer Outlet Salzburg<br />
1 Kasernenstrasse, Wals-Himmelreich, Salzburg<br />
Designer Outlet Parndorf<br />
Designer Outlet Straße 1, Parndorf<br />
BELGIUM<br />
McArthurGlen Luxembourg<br />
199 Route d’Arlon, Messancy<br />
FRANCE<br />
McArthurGlen Roubaix<br />
44 Mail de Lannoy, Roubaix<br />
McArthurGlen Troyes<br />
Voie du Bois, Pont de Sainte Marie<br />
GERMANY<br />
Designer Outlet Berlin<br />
1 Alter Spandauer Weg, Wustermark, OT Elstal<br />
GREECE<br />
McArthurGlen Athens<br />
Building Block E71, Yalou, 19004 Spata<br />
ITALY<br />
Barberino Designer Outlet<br />
Via Meucci, Firenze, Barberino del Mugello, Florence<br />
Castel Romano Designer Outlet<br />
64 Via Ponte di Piscina Cupa, Castel Romano, Rome<br />
La Reggia Designer Outlet<br />
Strada Provinciale 336, Ex SS Sannitica,<br />
Marcianise, Naples<br />
Serravalle Designer Outlet<br />
1 Via della Moda, Serravalle Scrivia, Milan<br />
Veneto Designer Outlet<br />
Via Marco Polo 1, Noventa di Piave, Venice<br />
NE<strong>THE</strong>RLANDS<br />
Designer Outlet Roermond<br />
2 Stadsweide, TD Roermond<br />
UK<br />
Ashford Designer Outlet<br />
Kimberley Way, Ashford, Kent<br />
Bridgend Designer Outlet<br />
Th e Derwen, Bridgend, South Wales<br />
Cheshire Oaks Designer Outlet<br />
Kinsey Road, Ellesmere Port, South Wirral<br />
East Midlands Designer Outlet<br />
Mansfi eld Road, South Normanton, Derbyshire<br />
Livingston Designer Outlet<br />
Almondvale Avenue, Livingston, West Lothian<br />
Swindon Designer Outlet<br />
Kemble Drive, Swindon, Wiltshire<br />
York Designer Outlet<br />
St Nicholas Avenue, Fulford, York
REPETITION MINUTES This Badollet timepiece contains Calibre BAD1655, a manually-wound mechanical movement with a Swiss<br />
tourbillon-type lever escapement. Featuring rhodium-plated bridges and mainplate and gold coloured gear trains, this movement is enriched with a<br />
minute repeater mechanism that is activated by a slide at 9 o'clock. Once the slide is activated, the time is told by the sound of the hammers chiming in<br />
different tones. The hours are chimed on a low tone, the quarter-hours by alternating low and high tones, and the minutes by the high tone.<br />
T +44 (0)207 493 6767<br />
T +41 22 731 16 51<br />
T +377 99 99 96 50
R E P E T I T I O N M I N U T E S<br />
W W W . B A D O L L E T . C O M
PRIVATAIR<br />
A passion for our planet has inspired one of <strong>PrivatAir</strong>’s pilots, and, as Charlotte Pénet<br />
discovers, the airline is supporting his mission to raise awareness of climate change<br />
WHEN�<strong>THE</strong>�AVIATION�INDUSTRY�DECIDES�TO�FOCUS�<br />
on the environmental issue of climate change, one might not<br />
be blamed for wanting to fl ag the hint of a paradox. After<br />
all, air transport currently represents two per cent of manmade<br />
CO 2 emissions, according to the latest fi gures from the<br />
Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change. But some issues are<br />
too big to allow room for procrastination. Sometimes the only way<br />
forward is to open one’s mind, take the optimist’s view that every<br />
problem is an opportunity for a solution, and be inspired.<br />
Th is article is the story of one optimist, who was inspired to fi nd<br />
solutions on a local scale to a global problem that he just couldn’t ignore.<br />
It’s the story of myblueplanet, an organisation that is working its way<br />
into public consciousness across the whole of Switzerland, motivating<br />
people on a local level, on a daily basis, to reduce their CO 2 emissions.<br />
As a child, Daniel Lüscher, the founder of myblueplanet,<br />
always dreamed of being a pilot, inspired by his uncle, who worked<br />
for Swissair. Th ere are some people who need nothing more than<br />
that moment of inspiration to establish their goals; their drive and<br />
positive attitude does all the rest, propelling them to their<br />
SKY-BLUE GREEN<br />
Seventy-Nine<br />
destination. Well, if positive attitude were a form of energy that<br />
could be stored and used, Lüscher would be a very reliable source.<br />
He became a pilot in 1996 and currently works for <strong>PrivatAir</strong>.<br />
First mission accomplished, he was ready for new goals.<br />
From his seat in the cockpit, over the years Lüscher watched with<br />
growing concern the manifestations of climate change occurring<br />
down on the ground. Th e most noticeable and visible change was<br />
the ever-diminishing amount of snow cover. For a man who grew<br />
up spending all his winter evenings out on skis with friends, in the<br />
countryside near the small town of Appenzell, this change struck<br />
a chord. Over time he saw the snow cap shrink on the peak of<br />
Mount Kilimanjaro in Africa. He watched the ice gradually melt<br />
around the southern tip of Greenland. Th e red lights of climate<br />
change were fl ashing at him from all sides. A pilot is trained to<br />
assess risk and to change course immediately in the face of danger<br />
or even the possibility of danger. Faced with the view of a world<br />
teetering off balance, Lüscher simply had to act.<br />
Th e moment of no turning back came on a stopover in New<br />
York, when he saw the Al Gore documentary on global warming,
An Inconvenient Truth. He was already<br />
attuned to the message. What hit home were<br />
the undeniable facts, and the call to action.<br />
He decided his own fi rst step towards change<br />
had to be big. He decided that a fi lm that was<br />
so convincing about the need to change our<br />
ways should be seen by as many people as<br />
possible. He had found the idea for his fi rst<br />
project: to bring An Inconvenient Truth to the<br />
cinema screen in his hometown of<br />
Winterthur for a whole week, for free.<br />
To make it happen, he needed a<br />
structure, some helping hands and minds.<br />
He pulled in three good friends, who<br />
together came up with a name, and<br />
myblueplanet was born. I could mention the<br />
challenges they faced to get that fi rst project<br />
off the ground, the diffi culty in getting funds,<br />
pulling in media interest, ensuring that on<br />
the fi rst day, the cinema would be full. But<br />
when Lüscher tells of the challenges, he talks<br />
about them with his contagious grin and his<br />
boundless energy and it’s easy to understand<br />
how he overcame them. He wasn’t working<br />
alone but every project needs a pilot and you<br />
sense that this pilot had his crew well and<br />
truly motivated. Over the week, 11,000<br />
people (one tenth of Winterthur’s population)<br />
saw An Inconvenient Truth. First mission<br />
for myblueplanet accomplished.<br />
Th e noise generated by this event had a<br />
snowball eff ect. Lüscher received calls from<br />
people interested in participating in<br />
myblueplanet. One was a local businessman<br />
keen to invest, but he needed to see a<br />
business plan. Business plan? You could say<br />
the team was fl ying by the seat of its pants<br />
at this stage. But when you have a group<br />
comprising experts in strategy, marketing<br />
and fi nance, as well as a professor in solar<br />
energy, that can be a productive way to fl y.<br />
Th e business plan was written, funds came<br />
in, two staff were recruited and myblueplanet<br />
started to spin.<br />
‘Th e aim is to show<br />
on a local scale what<br />
is possible on a global<br />
scale. Everyone<br />
involved can see<br />
the direct result<br />
of their efforts’<br />
Th e set-up is simple and eff ective, the<br />
vision is clear. With the www.myblueplanet.ch<br />
website as the platform, a community of<br />
volunteers all working towards the protection<br />
of the environment was established in 2007<br />
and is constantly growing. Th e community is<br />
made up of individuals, companies, cities and<br />
organisations, all managed locally by<br />
‘bluepower teams’. Th ese teams organise<br />
actions that lead to a measurable reduction of<br />
CO 2 levels and increased awareness of<br />
climate change. ‘Th e aim is to show on a local<br />
scale what is possible on a global scale,’ says<br />
Lüscher. Th e clever part is that every person<br />
Eighty<br />
who has signed up to an action and shown<br />
they’ve completed it online, can see in real<br />
terms the actual reduction in CO 2 they’re<br />
directly responsible for. It enables each person<br />
to see that even a single, individual action<br />
makes a diff erence. ‘Everyone is a part of the<br />
solution,’ says Lüscher. ‘Th is is motivation<br />
spelled out in simple numbers. Th e overall<br />
goal is for Switzerland to be the fi rst<br />
industrial nation producing just one ton of<br />
CO 2 per person per year.’<br />
Myblueplanet is a not-for-profi t<br />
organisation, with no political involvement<br />
nor aspirations. Th e reason for this? ‘You<br />
need short answers and easy steps,’ something<br />
politicians and large corporations struggle to<br />
provide, says Lüscher. ‘Nobody has any<br />
personal or fi nancial interest in the venture.<br />
Th is is paramount to generating public trust.’<br />
With the organisation up and running, as<br />
for any business, communication became key.<br />
Explaining to people what can be done to<br />
reduce our impact on the environment is easy,<br />
the challenge lies in getting a reaction. Th e<br />
premise of myblueplanet is to send a positive<br />
message with an element of fun, not a<br />
guilt-inducing one. Imagine sitting on a train<br />
in December and being off ered a gift and a<br />
heartfelt thank-you from a Santa Claus<br />
dressed in blue, simply because you are using<br />
public transport. Th e people of Basel, Zurich<br />
and Winterthur have already experienced<br />
such a treat. Eva, the Swiss national<br />
newspaper cartoon character, is a corporate<br />
volunteer for myblueplanet. Every month her<br />
IMAGES�©�WWW�MYBLUEPLANET�CH
action plan is distributed across the blue cities<br />
via fl yers. People take the fl yer, complete the<br />
action and register the impact on the website.<br />
Th e success and the eff ectiveness of<br />
myblueplanet projects are evidence of the<br />
sound business minds working behind the<br />
scenes. Every action is handled with true<br />
professionalism: the idea is clever, the<br />
communication has impact, the logistics are<br />
fl awless, the action required from individuals<br />
is simple and fun. Th e momentum for<br />
myblueplanet is there. Th e motivation<br />
among the team is unwavering. And the<br />
fi gure on the site showing CO 2 reduction is<br />
going up and up. Plans are to translate the<br />
website into French, Italian and English, to<br />
reach all the cantons and people of<br />
Switzerland. It’s becoming a household<br />
name. When IBM in Switzerland were<br />
planning how to celebrate their 100th<br />
birthday, they chose myblueplanet as their<br />
partner. Th ey will be planting 50 trees in<br />
Zurich. Th e mission is ongoing.<br />
When the time burden of running such<br />
a project in parallel with a full-time job and<br />
a family life became unworkable, Lüscher<br />
spoke to Greg Th omas, the president and<br />
CEO of <strong>PrivatAir</strong>. Th e company’s contribution<br />
to myblueplanet is to allow Lüscher<br />
one week a month to focus on the project,<br />
with no reduction in pay. It’s no surprise<br />
then to hear Lüscher state in all honesty<br />
that he is proud to work for <strong>PrivatAir</strong>, who<br />
provide an outstanding example of<br />
corporate volunteering.<br />
As for the fact that Lüscher is a pilot,<br />
thus working for an industry that could be<br />
said to trivialise all his personal eff orts for<br />
CO 2 reduction, his take is, as ever, a positive<br />
one. He uses his job and his knowledge to<br />
make a diff erence in the air as well, where<br />
the potential for making an impact is<br />
signifi cant. Th ere are a number of ways to<br />
reduce the CO 2 burden of a fl ight: better use<br />
of tail wind, requesting the optimum fl ight<br />
altitude, shorter itineraries, better calculation<br />
of fuel needs and a reduction of excess<br />
on board, to name a few. He communicates<br />
this message among pilots and industry<br />
players and his myblueplanet credentials<br />
ensure that people listen.<br />
When faced with the undeniable reality<br />
of a world careering off balance, promising a<br />
future of uncertainty for our children and<br />
grandchildren, reactions vary. Th ere are those<br />
in denial, those who veer towards despair,<br />
then there are the cynics who decide that<br />
there’s no point in any individual doing<br />
anything about it. And then there are those<br />
like Lüscher: the optimists, the people of<br />
action, who just get on and take a fi rst step<br />
towards change, however big or small. His<br />
latest mission is one that probably has no<br />
end, because the overall outcome on the issue<br />
of global climate change cannot lie in the<br />
hands of one person. However the inspiration<br />
myblueplanet generates is immeasurable.<br />
Who knows how far it will go, who it will<br />
reach… Are you inspired? ‘We are all a part<br />
of the solution,’ says Lüscher.<br />
Eighty-One<br />
Previous page:<br />
Daniel Lüscher, the<br />
<strong>PrivatAir</strong> pilot who<br />
founded myblueplanet.<br />
This page from left<br />
to right: apprentices<br />
who combined fun with<br />
education at a two-day<br />
climate camp; swap your<br />
car for a bike to help<br />
cut carbon emissions;<br />
Graziella Rogers,<br />
Miss Earth Schweiz<br />
2009, plants a tree for<br />
myblueplanet<br />
�����HIGHLIGHTS<br />
BIKE�FOR�CAR<br />
For one month, in exchange for<br />
their car keys, the people of 12<br />
cities across Switzerland get the<br />
free use of an e-bike. When 80<br />
people in Winterthur did it, fi ve<br />
sold their cars. The result just there<br />
was a CO reduction of 17 tons.<br />
2<br />
EVERY�CELL�COUNTS�<br />
On the myblueplanet website you<br />
can buy one or a number of solar<br />
cells that all add up towards the<br />
installation of solar panels in<br />
schools. The contractor doubles<br />
the amount raised. The revenue<br />
from excess energy is used for<br />
school environmental projects.<br />
CAMPS�FOR�APPRENTICES<br />
For two days, employers release<br />
the apprentices among their<br />
staff , who come and learn for<br />
free how to introduce green<br />
projects into their company.<br />
PLANT�A�TREE�FOR�<strong>THE</strong>�PLANET�<br />
Users of the website can click on<br />
a map to off er up space for a<br />
tree to be planted or can<br />
purchase a tree. Once those two<br />
steps are complete, the tree is<br />
delivered for free by the Post<br />
Offi ce and planted. The aim is for<br />
100,000 trees in 10 years.
<strong>PrivatAir</strong><br />
– for high fl yers<br />
PRIVATAIR�HAS�BEEN at<br />
the forefront of private aviation<br />
for over 30 years, providing<br />
the world’s most demanding<br />
travellers with a comprehensive<br />
range of capabilities, delivered<br />
to the very highest standards of<br />
safety and personal service.<br />
Since its creation in 1977,<br />
the company has grown from<br />
being the corporate aircraft<br />
fl eet of the Latsis Group,<br />
a global conglomerate, to a<br />
world-renowned full-service<br />
commercial aviation operator.<br />
Today, <strong>PrivatAir</strong> is one<br />
of the private aviation<br />
industry’s longest-standing<br />
and most prestigious operators.<br />
Its global operations include<br />
both jet charter and private<br />
airline services.<br />
PRIVATE CHARTER<br />
<strong>PrivatAir</strong>’s charter services enable<br />
you to travel in total privacy,<br />
into and out of more than 5,000<br />
airports around the world. For<br />
over 30 years, the company has set<br />
the industry standard in operating<br />
aircraft of the highest quality and<br />
providing outstanding levels of<br />
service to our customers.<br />
Whether it’s chartering a<br />
Beechcraft 200 for a weekend<br />
family shopping break, or a<br />
PRIVATAIR<br />
PRIVATAIR<br />
Offering jet charter and private airline services, <strong>PrivatAir</strong> has been a<br />
leader in the field of luxury aviation for more than three decades<br />
Eighty-Two<br />
50-seat VIP-confi gured airliner<br />
for a three-week, round-the-world<br />
trip, <strong>PrivatAir</strong> off ers unrivalled<br />
international coverage, sourcing<br />
the best aircraft to match each<br />
passenger’s individual requirements.<br />
As such, our services are regularly<br />
sought by governments, royalty,<br />
celebrities and business executives<br />
the world over.<br />
PRIVATE AIRLINE SERVICES<br />
After pioneering the all-businessclass<br />
concept in 2002, <strong>PrivatAir</strong><br />
now operates fl ights on behalf of a<br />
select number of commercial airlines<br />
who wish to off er their customers<br />
an exclusive service on key routes.<br />
<strong>PrivatAir</strong> also provides regularly<br />
scheduled corporate shuttle fl ights<br />
for companies that frequently need<br />
to send their employees or clients to<br />
specifi c destinations.<br />
SUPERIOR SAFETY<br />
AND SECURITY<br />
We operate to the most stringent<br />
standards of safety and security, far<br />
exceeding industry requirements.<br />
In 1998, <strong>PrivatAir</strong> became Europe’s<br />
fi rst airline whose quality system<br />
fulfi lled the IS0 9002 certifi cation<br />
standards for all its services; six<br />
years later we were the fi rst business<br />
aviation company awarded the<br />
prestigious IOSA certifi cation, the<br />
fi rst internationally recognised audit<br />
standards for safety. Th e company<br />
has also been awarded ETOPS 180<br />
minutes and FAA 129 Foreign Carrier<br />
approval, allowing us to off er the<br />
most direct routes across the Atlantic<br />
and Pacifi c Oceans, and unlimited<br />
operations to the US. <strong>PrivatAir</strong> is<br />
still one of only a handful of ad hoc<br />
commercial charter operators in the<br />
world with all these approvals.
A RACING MACHINE ON <strong>THE</strong> WRIST<br />
www.richardmille.com<br />
wolkoff-arnodin.com<br />
CALIBER RM 025<br />
CHRONOGRAPH DIVER’S WATCH<br />
Manual winding tourbillon movement<br />
Carbon nanofiber baseplate<br />
Chronograph (Column wheel in titanium)<br />
Power reserve : circa 50 hours<br />
Torque indicator<br />
Power reserve indicator<br />
Function indicator<br />
Variable inertia, free sprung balance with overcoil<br />
New in-line escapement design<br />
Fast rotating barrel<br />
(6 hours per revolution instead of 7.5 hours)<br />
Winding barrel teeth and third-wheel pinion<br />
with central involute profile<br />
Barrel pawl with progressive recoil<br />
Modular time setting mechanism fitted against the case back<br />
Torque limiting crown<br />
Wheel based time setting system (back of the movement)<br />
Closure of the barrel cover using excentric screws<br />
Spline screws in grade 5 titanium for the bridges and case<br />
Bezel turning unidirectionally following ISO 6425 norm<br />
300 meter water resistant case in titanium and red gold
ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE<br />
CHRONOGRAPH<br />
LE BRASSUS (VALLÉE DE JOUX) - SWITZERLAND - audemarspiguet.com