Unfortunately that night two of us had severe food poisoning so they remained in bed feeling weak and weary. Their vigilant “Florence” who had been on bucket duty, also opted for a lie-in. Ten set off to circumnavigate the island clockwise. We toured Huruhi harbour, staying close in to explore rock gardens and caves, and visit the Sisters and Sail rock. Just past Ururoarahi Point we discovered two narrow parallel caves joined deep in the bowel of the cliff. The adventurous backed in one side and punched out victorious from the other side. It was all in, literally for Phil who left some orange plastic behind negotiating the tight turn in swell. The only casualties were Phil’s pride and a digital camera that fell off the spray deck and went for a swim. This is a cave to die for! Further around the island steep cliffs and steep stony beaches offered no easy landing place for composite boats. However, cramped legs and numb bums were forgotten when we rounded Taiwhatiwhati Point. Luck was on our side; we had timed our arrival with the tide creating the most spectacular blowhole I have ever witnessed. A roar warned that it was about to blow, and blow it did. The spray came out like a horizontal geyser. Any paddlers who went in for a close up were lost in the mist. We were buzzing as we continued on our way. What a great spot - caves, blowholes and rock gardens and this was only day one! We awoke to a relatively still day and in the grey light of dawn launched from Coralie Bay, scorning the weather forecast and headed east for the outer islands. The bay that had been deserted when we arrived was full of boats, which had sought shelter from yesterday’s gusty conditions. Undeterred, we paddled off at a good pace. Following the coast we punched across just past 12 ISSUE THIRTYone • 2005 Te Whanga Point re-grouped behind a rock and took stock. The wind was rising but we were too close to the outer islands not to have a good look. We postponed Stanley and Double Island for another day but were confident that we could manage Middle, Taiwhatiwhati and Karapuki Islands. The sea on the east side of the islands was calm and flat and allowed rock gardening. We found caves, a particularly impressive arch on the east side of Middle Island and a large amphitheatre, which may have been an old volcanic vent. The rising swell did limit access to a couple of caves but there were still plenty for everyone. We chased each other in and out of lagoons and marvelled at the clarity of the water, which revealed a seabed almost as colourful as the coral reefs of Queensland. Since landing is not permitted on the islands and the wind was rising we headed back to Peachgrove Cove for lunch fighting into a 20-knot plus north westerly. On the southwest side of Great Mercury Island the sea was rough and the wind blowing steadily at 25 knots with gusts of 35 or more. It was hard going around Bumper Cove, Ahikopua Point and Pukekoromiko Point. Some of us went point to point, the others hugged the coast until too much wave refraction forced them out. We took short breaks from the wind behind rocks and headlands. We were pleased when our bay with the windsock flying in the breeze came into view. The day ended with great surfing. That evening, options for the return trip home the following day were discussed. The weather forecast was for 20 to 25 knots, gusting 35 knots, rising to 35 knots later in the day. Cell phone conversations with boaties out in the thick of it confirmed the weather lads were not being conservative. But, we <strong>final</strong>ly settled on our favourite option: leave early before the wind comes up. Through the night the wind howled, with no sign of blowing itself out. When morning came we were a bit bleary-eyed. The windsock on the brow of the hill spoke volumes, it was windy! Departure was delayed as we vacillated between gazing at the white caps in the bay, watching the windsock, and listening to the VHF. Cabin fever set in, nerves were frayed. By 4.00pm the weather was still pretty rough. We determined to stay another night. As if reading our minds, Robbie appeared on his farm bike. He kindly offered to take us back to Optio Bay the following morning on the “big boat”. We were pretty sure that wouldn’t be necessary but the option came in handy when we called back to Auckland to explain “We are stuck on an Island and won’t be into work tomorrow”. We were now on ‘emergency rations’, frustrated by the interminable weather the mood over the evening meal was subdued. I made a mental note, next time bring something better to eat and playing cards. One good thing, packing was going to be easy: no food left and all clothing dry from the blustery conditions. Tuesday dawned calm and clear. We were heading home. A quick call assured Robbie that we were off and thanked him for his generosity. The lodge burst into activity. Bustling bodies swept floors, cleaned toilets, wiped out ovens and emptied fridges. We split into two groups for the trip back, one going via the outer islands, the other taking a more direct route. Glassy seas and blue skies belied the white horses and howling winds of the previous day. The phrase “we would probably have made it” was banned from conversation. On landing we reflected on what a marvellous experience we had had. Great trip Charlie, and thanks Robbie, we hope we haven’t ruined it for the next batch of island trotters. Photos by Guy Folster
Blow Hole ISSUE THIRTYone • 2005 13
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