SEA KAYAKING Mayor Island / Tuhua by Lesley Noel After several aborted attempts the Bay of Plenty Yakity Yak club <strong>final</strong>ly made it to Mayor Island via the Ali J 1. a charter boat, skippered by Tony . The trip normally takes fifty minutes as opposed to the three hours the Tauranga ferry takes, however our trip was slightly longer as the seas were massive and the bar raging. Our fearless five were Roger McQuitty and Tony Cox Smith from Tauranga, Peter Scammell, Hamilton, Marama Clarke, Gisborne and myself. Seventy minutes after take off we had our first introduction to the Island. As we unloaded the Puffin, Tui, Tasman Express, Penguin and Cobra Tourer from the charter boat backed to the beach, we all ended up wet to our waists. Zane the Island’s caretaker was there to help. During our stay he told us the history of Tuhua, their plans for the future and gave us a map of the Island. We pitched our tents, unpacked, and then took off in our kayaks from South East Bay for South West Bay. The beaches looked benign but within two to three metres of the shore you register the swell. The sea breaks and drags you away almost as fast as you can pull your deck tag. We had a few laughs at our landings. Bodies half in and half out of the kayaks were swept seaward and then unceremoniously dumped in again. A few bruised shins! Assisted landings become the norm. Once landed we donned masks and went snorkelling around the rocks. The waters were fantastically clear and revealed much sea life. Further around the coast we had fun going through an archway at Turuturu rock. That evening we walked to a massive pohutukawa tree, then out to the lighthouse and down to South West Bay . We skirted fig and stone fruit trees ,evidence of past occupation. The bush and pohutukawa trees were awesome. There are cabins for rent with bunk beds, basic but adequate. However we tented. The furnace was firing all day making our evening shower just off cold, but the dishwater was hot! The following day in large swells we circumnavigated the Island, anticlockwise. The first third of the Island is bayed. We crossed from headland to headland as the seas didn’t allow for any rock gardening. Where the Marine Reserve starts the seas got quite interesting. 16 ISSUE THIRTYone • 2005 Two metre swells broke on the cliffs, one metre swells retreated and a cross swell from behind kept us on our toes. The next third of our paddle was past huge obsidian banded cliffs going straight down into the sea. A puff of wind got up but died just as quickly. Rounding Tumutu Point the seas were calmer, a pleasant change after going every which way for two and a half hours. Half an hour later we landed on Oira beach. On went the masks and snorkels for more awesome underwater scenes in some of the clearest waters I have experienced in New Zealand. We rounded Tokimataa Point into South East Bay. Roger wished to try Pete’s Cobra Tourer so I gave him a hand line and a dead orange roughy I’d picked out of the water. He paddled out to the entrance, baited up and bang! Caught a nice kingfish. All triumphant he paddled back and was pounded on the shore amidst much laughter and picture taking. We ate his catch just before leaving the next day. It was delicious. Our last day dawned just as beautiful as the previous two. We set off decked out in sun tops and t-shirts through dense bush and didn’t see the sun until two hours later at the cliff top and then very briefly. What an exercise though. After forty minutes of a steep walk we came to crossroads and had to decide whether to go via the Devils staircase or come back that way. Choosing the latter, as we preferred to go up the tougher sounding stretch, we hit the crater wall and thought they had their signs mixed - but no. Up till now the track had been covered in leaves and was quite slippery but this was nothing. Going down in one spot on a sheer cliff on a small ladder held in place with steel rope made the legs shake. Our wonderful native trees with their amazing root systems were such a help. Once in the Crater Lake, Te Paritu ( Black Lake ) became visible on our left through overhanging trees. It was swampy and covered with pollen so it looked yellow not black. Some way past from another cross road, five minutes takes you down to the Green Lake Aroaritamahine. You can swim in this lake but I chose not to. More pics and on to the Devils staircase which started five minutes up the track. This took us up to the cliff face overlooking Taratimi Bay , awesome, and up a narrow windy ledge. Great views. The last part of the tramp was downhill and returned us to South East bay where a swim was in order. From the calls we could hear, bird life was abundant, but to see them was a different story as the canopy was very high. Before the charter boat arrived to pick us up, we had one last kayak around to Turuturu Rock, a quick snorkel and more rock gardening as the seas were lovely and calm. Things to watch out for; bees and wasps. We could have operated and given a tracheotomy but had nothing in our first aid kit for stings! Nor major bruises, but here the Island provided leaves , which we steeped and bound on to the affected part. Mayor Island is a fantastic destination, awesome paddling, snorkelling and fishing and for those who tramp anything from a half hour walk to six hours around the Island. I understand there are some huge caves to explore through the Marine Reserve area should you be lucky enough to have the sea cooperate. How to get there: Waihi Beach Boat Charters, with Tony and Robyn Prujean, phone 07 863 5385 Tony skippers the Ali J 1 which takes about 50 mins from Bowentown to Mayor Island. Minimum of 4, Maximum of 6. Safe car parking and shuttle service included in the $70 return fee inc. kayak. Booking essential. Camping - Phone 07 579 5655 Cost $ 6 a campsite or $10 a night for a bunk. Photos by Simon Greig
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