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hospitalitychef Philippa Sibley’s clafoutis of pear Makes six individual or one large clafoutis. Clafoutis batter 70g hazelnut meal (made by grinding roasted, peeled nuts) 10g plain flour 100g caster sugar 2 large eggs 3 yolks 250ml cream (thickened) Mix all dry ingredients. Whisk together eggs and cream. Combine both mixtures and leave to rest for several hours or over night in the fridge. To poach pears 3 large ripe pears (William, Bartlet or Packham are best) 500g caster sugar 1000ml water Vanilla bean or cinnamon stick (optional) Bring water, sugar and spices to the boil and reduce heat. Peel, halve and core pears using a melon baller. Place pears into the syrup cut side facing up. Place a circle of baking paper on the surface then lower a plate onto the pears to hold them under the syrup. Poach gently for about 15 minutes or until tender. Allow to cool in the syrup. Pre heat oven to 180C. Butter and sugar one large or six small porcelain moulds (I use oval baking moulds 15cm long by 10cm wide). Slice the pears into four pieces and lay on the bottom of the moulds. Pour over the clafoutis batter (about 125mls worth). Sprinkle with icing sugar and some crushed hazelnuts and cook for 15mins (smalls). or 22 minutes (large), or until springy but still a little wobbly in the centre. Allow to cool slightly then serve with pouring cream or ice cream. jet machine, which basically grinds your ice cream to order. “People generally use a lot of sugar as a stabiliser in ice cream so that it's spoonable from the freezer but now that you can churn things to order, a lot of sugar has been dropped out of things.” Sibley says in the future she would love to open a dessert bar in Melbourne's city, and believes in a few year's time desserts will be something that people specifically go out for, rather than just something to top-off an entree and a main. Il Fornaio is a happy medium for Sibley, serving breakfast, lunch and sweet treats (which includes three different kinds of doughnuts made fresh every day) all matched with specialty coffee from St Ali Coffee Roasters. After a very long and very successful career, Sibley is still in the kitchen poaching eggs at 5.30am in the morning and mastering blackberry delice that are the size of 50 cent pieces—but she doesn't hope to be doing this for too much longer. She is keen to take on a more managerial role, hiring more staff to follow in her very impressive footsteps. “I really, really hope very soon to be swanning around looking glamorous and drinking champagne,” she says. 18 hospitality | august <strong>2010</strong> hospitalitymagazine.com.au
Lip-licking sweet matches The perfect wine and dessert pairing can be a challenge, particularly chocolate, but getting it right will deliver sweet rewards, writes Christine Salins. “NINETY-THREE per cent of people who come through the door are sceptical that wine and chocolate mix,” says Grant Coates, of South Australia’s Hahndorf Hill Winery. The winery’s ‘ChocoVino’ experience has been able to cut through that scepticism and show just why some rules are meant to be broken. Coates co-ordinates the ChocoVino experience tht was launched last November in the belief that single-origin gourmet chocolate can reflect terroir just as fine wine does. The results are remarkable. One example is the Italian range Toscano Black — the chocolate with 63 per cent cocoa is paired with Sauvignon Blanc, the 66 per cent Rosé and the 70 per cent with Shiraz. Each complements the other beautifully. In another example, the citrus buttery characters of Hahndorf Hill’s 2009 Chardonnay highlight similar notes in a lemon and ginger Dagoba chocolate. Finding a wine to complement a dish with more complex elements takes some skill but the general rule is that the sugar level in a dessert should be lower than the sugar level in the wine so that it doesn’t overwhelm and flatten out the wine. It’s for this reason that fruit-based desserts tend to be easier to match with wine than richer desserts. Champagne and sparkling wine generally doesn’t have enough sugar to stand up to dessert, but once again the rule book might need re-writing as there has been a significant shift in the market to sweeter bubbles. Moscato’s popularity too is on the rise. With flavours such as citrus, lychee and rose petal, it also works well with dessert, especially fruit desserts. Late harvest, botrytised and even fortified wines pair well with dessert, not only because of their sweetness but also because of their unctuous texture. The NSW Riverina region has developed a reputation for botrytised Semillon, driven by the success of De Bortoli’s Noble One, which set the benchmark for Australian dessert wines in the early ‘80s. One of the best to come out of the Riverina is Westend’s 3 Bridges Golden Mist, in an elegant tall slender bottle. But there are plenty of wonderful botrytised wines from other regions as well: Cape Jaffa La Lune Botrytis Semillon comes from a committed biodynamic producer on South Australia’sLimestone Coast, while Margan Family ‘Exactly how high in residual sugar I’ll take it I’m not sure. I want to leave it variable so that we can balance it as the season dictates.’ Sweet ending: Who says chocolate and wine don’t mix? imbibe Winegrowers produces a Botrytis Semillon from old Hunter vines. Victoria’s Trentham Estate makes Noble Taminga with a tangy sweetness, ripe apricot and marmalade flavours, while Yalumba’s Noble Pick Viognier has lovely apricot notes, a perfect match for stone fruits. Brown Brothers has had great success with its Patricia Noble Riesling, which has delicious butterscotch and honey characters. Brown Brothers Orange Muscat & Flora is a late harvest wine that complements a wide range of desserts from lychee and mango dishes to crepes suzette. At Kalari Vineyards in Cowra, Valto and Pamela Heikkinen produce a Late-Picked Verdelho as well as Fortelho, made from very ripe Verdelho fortified with brandy spirit. The finest sweet wines have a delicate balance between sweetness and acidity that creates the perfect accompaniment for dessert. A number of Tasmanian producers, including Frogmore Creek and Bream Creek, are producing Riesling with varying levels of residual sugar. Bream Creek owner Fred Peacock is a great fan of German producer Dr Loosen’s residual sugar Riesling, and in 2008 he decided to make both a dry and a sweeter style. Bream Creek 2008 VGR has 20g of residual sugar; the VGR stands for Variable Grams Residual. “Exactly how high (in residual sugar I’ll take it) I’m not sure,” he said. “I want to leave it variable so that we can balance it as the season dictates.” One particularly interesting dessert wine is Hamiltons Bluff Dolce Nero. It’s made from Sangiovese ripened to an incredible 22 baume. The ferment was stopped at 10 per cent alcohol, leaving a monster 240g of residual sugar. This resulted in a luscious, silky wine with intense fruit flavours and a very dark colour, much like port. Julia Andrews, co-owner of Hamiltons Bluff, recommends it with dark chocolate and cardamom mousse. Rich desserts like this could also be matched with fortified wine, such as Stanton & Killeen’s Classic Rutherglen Muscat, Buller’s Old Vine Tokay or Pfeiffer Topaque from Rutherglen. Another option is to match a chocolate dessert with beer, such as Porter or a Belgian cherry beer. Malt Shovel Brewery’s James Squire Porter has roasted coffee and chocolate flavours, making it a great complement for a chocolate brownie or dark chocolate mousse. hospitalitymagazine.com.au hospitality | august <strong>2010</strong> 19
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Page 7 and 8: Food safety Don’t cook if crook W
Page 10: workplace Paid parental leave Do yo
Page 13: NEW PRODUCTS • NEW EQUIPMENT •
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Page 25: Apple crumble, spiced caramel sauce
Page 28 and 29: Celebrating 30 Years of Foodservice
Page 30: poultry & game birds From Dan Hunte
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Page 37 and 38: 7 8 7 Cooley Irish whiskey arrives.
Page 39 and 40: David is a Food & Beverage Manager

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