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desserts citing dessert," Martinovic says. “I had the crumble to a pretty good position but I thought it was missing something. And then I had the idea of adding the popping candy to the crumble. It’ great to see a 60-yearold couple giggling." As well as the passion of his staff in selling the desserts to diners, Martinovic believes the high buy-in rate also comes down to two other things -- making sure the dessert list is included on the menu that's first handed to diners, and deliberately making desserts lighter and less sweet. “We probably use 40 per cent less sugar than most, and there are quite a lot of savoury components or aspects to them,” says Martinovic. “I try to just make them a lot cleaner and stay true to the components and keep it to say three or four component on the plate. I think diners are moving away from overly rich and sweet desserts and love the fact that is it light. I think that's working in our favour, absolutely. The first spoonful is really good and it gets better as you go along.” The use of more savoury components adds to the appeal, he says. “For the caramel pudding I'm using caramelised walnuts and adding a salt but also taking the caramel a little further so that instead of being really sweet caramel we are taking it much closer to those bitter tones and then there's a little sea salt on top of that.” The push towards more savoury flavours and ingredients in desserts is very Monkey Magic’s Black Sesame Creme Caramel (above); Pierre Roelofs’ dessert called Red. much a trend, says pastry chef Jane Strode who operates Sydney's successful Bistrode restaurant along with her husband, chef Jeremy Strode. “Using salt in desserts and more savoury ingredients is a huge trend and I quite like it,” says Strode. Strode, whose Honey Tart with Peanut Butter Ice Cream has become the signature dessert at the restaurant famed for its homage to traditional English dishes, says people are not wanting things that are overly sweet. “One thing we've always done is to use savoury pastry for all of our tarts,” Strode says. “The fillings are very sweet and just having that little bit of savoury, salty pastry with anything, a chocolate tart or a frangipani tart, it just really brings out that flavour. We never use a sweet pastry. There's no point.” Strode says dessert is hugely popular with Bistrode diners with at least 60 per cent of customers ordering them. She believes her passion for dessert and being out on the floor talking about them is a key factor contributing to that high percentage rate for the restaurant. Getting the balance right for the dessert menu is crucial, says Sydney chef Dietmar Sawyere who's had the challenge of creating two very different dessert menus, one for his three hat fine diner Berowra Waters and the other for his hot new suburban Sydney French bistro Ad Lib. His Berowra Waters desserts can range from a warm chocolate tart with sheep’s milk yogurt cream and crushed candied almonds , to braised pineapple with coconut coconut mousse and pineapple soup, while at Ad Lib the bistro favourites include a pistachio and Grand Marnier brulee and dark chocolate mousse. Sawyere says it's very rare for diners at Berowra Waters not to choose a dessert course to include in their degustation menu, while Ad Lib's diners lean towards almost always having a dessert. 24 hospitality | august <strong>2010</strong> hospitalitymagazine.com.au
Apple crumble, spiced caramel sauce, clotted cream ice cream From Tomislav Martinovic Tomislav Restaurant Clotted cream ice cream: 1 litre whole milk 1 litre single cream 150g castor sugar 300g egg yolks 15g milk powder 6 vanilla pods Combine milk, sugar cream and milk powder and bring to the boil. Let infuse for 30 minutes. Add to the yolks and pass through a chinois or fine sieve. Let mixture mature for 24 hours. Crumble mix: 250g butter 125g sugar 250g almond meal 125g plain flour Rub together in a bowl until mixed and crumbly. Macadamia sponge 150g macadamia nuts 100g sugar 500g cream 100g plain flour 20g sugar 60g egg whites Bring the cream to boil and let cool. Add nuts and sugar in thermo mix. Combine nuts and cream. Whisk the egg white and sugar and fold through nut mixture. Spiced caramel sauce 1 litre white wine 250g sugar 8 Granny Smith apples 500g sugar 1 vanilla bean 20g cinnamon 30g cloves With the 500g of sugar make a fairly dark caramel and add all other ingredients, including the apples that have been chopped roughly. Bring it to the boil and set aside to infuse for a further 30 minutes. Strain off all ingredients and poach chopped apples (on low — medium heat) until just soft. Sawyere says dessert offers a great opportunity for restaurants, with desserts generally offering healthier margins compared to other courses. He says the trick to selling more desserts is having a well thought out and balanced dessert menu, and making sure diners are aware of the dessert options from the outset of their meal. “I think definitely you will sell more desserts if they are on the original menu,” says Sawyere. Blending Japanese and Western flavours in desserts is proving a success for chef Hidetoshi desserts To finish the dish: Portion the macadamia sponge and heat in the oven at 180C for one minute. Pacotise the ice cream for four minutes. Heat the apples in a saucepan over medium heat until sauce reduces to a caramel (takes approximately 3-4 mins). Add equal quantities of popping candy (bought from a corner store) in a bowl with the crumble mix (one tablespoon each). Place the sponge on a plate, put apples and sauce on top, then crumble mix and ice cream on the side. Black sesame crème caramel with red wine poached pear From Hidetoshi Tsuboi Monkey Magic restaurant Serves four Caramel 125g caster sugar 75ml water Crème caramel 400ml cream Vanilla bean 3 egg yolks 125g caster sugar 1/2 tbspn black sesame paste Mix caster sugar and water to make caramel then put into moulds. Heat cream with vanilla bean to simmer. Whisk yolks and sugar until creamed, and then add black sesame paste. Add cream then whisk. Strain. Pour mixture into moulds. Preheat oven at 180C. Place moulds in tray, then add boiling water till half way up the mould. Cook in oven for 30-35mins. Red wine poached pear: 1 pear 1 Nashi pear 300ml red wine 100ml water 100g caster sugar 1 piece cinnamon stick 1 piece bay leaf 1 tspn black peppercorn Reduce liquid to 2/3. Add pears. Cook until tender. Tsuboi at Sydney's Monkey Magic. Most popular is his Black Sesame Creme Caramel but they also include dishes like White Sesame Infused Tiramisu; Guava Sorbet with Plum Wine Granita and Green Apple chips. “Normally Japanese restaurants don't care about desserts and they are usually quite boring traditional desserts but diners like to finish with an indulgence,” Tsuboi says. “I'm surprised how popular they are. I'd say half the customers are having dessert and I think we will sell more." SUPREME hospitalitymagazine.com.au hospitality | august <strong>2010</strong> 25
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