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more” poznatoga hrvatskog pjesnika Slavka Mihalića. Taj šum mora<br />

česta je pojava u ušima Zagrepčana, jer mnogi su od njih s juga, iz Dalmacije,<br />

došli u Zagreb studirati i potom nastavili ovdje živjeti . I koliko<br />

god se glavni gradski trg s banom Jelačićem na konju smatra “centrom”,<br />

toliko je baš ovaj park “središte mandale” u mašti svakog Zagrepčanina,<br />

pogotovo onog sretnika sa stanom na Zrinjevcu. Šetati parkom, a ne<br />

posjeti ti Arheološki muzej sa zanimljivim nalazima neolitskih grobnica<br />

iz okolice grada, mumijama i ostalim neophodnim arheološkim<br />

parafernalijima, ne bi bio potpun doživljaj. Kao ni zaobići stare majstore<br />

u Strossmayerovoj galeriji i moderne u njezinoj posestrimi, Modernoj<br />

galeriji.<br />

8<br />

DOLAC I RAZGOVOR S “KUMICAMA”<br />

Gotovo da nema neke važne osobe na proputovanju Zagrebom, a da<br />

ne svrati među šarene dolačke kišobrane i ondje ne popriča s kumicama<br />

(žene sa sela koje kao da od početka brojanja vremena dolaze<br />

u grad prodavati domaće namirnice, sir i vrhnje, cvijeće). To je toliko<br />

uobičajeno da smo kadrove s Dolca navikli redovito gledati na TV-u, pa<br />

nam je gotovo čudno kad nam se nekoliko dana zaredom s ekrana ne<br />

osmjehne lice neke dobrohotne bakice. Ali, to ne znači da je gradska<br />

tržnica “službeno” mjesto za obilaske. Ona je inti mna točka svih koji<br />

vole tu neodoljivu kombinaciju zvonika katedrale, malih pečenjara u<br />

sjeni svake kuće, brdašaca voća i povrća, a uz to i narančasto-ružičaste<br />

kakofonije cvijeća. Subotom se na Dolcu pojavi gotovo svatko tko<br />

drži do sebe, a poriluk, blitva i ti kvice tek su pozadina malih gradskih<br />

razgovora.<br />

A journey beyond chocolate...<br />

Zagreb since many of them have come from the South, Dalmati a, to<br />

study in Zagreb where they conti nued to live. And although the main<br />

city square with a centrally located statue of Ban Josip Jelačić on a<br />

horse is considered the ‘’centre’’, this park is the “centre of mandala”<br />

in the fantasy world of all people living in Zagreb, especially those lucky<br />

ones who have a fl at at Zrinjevac. The adventure would be incomplete<br />

if one is to walk around the park without deciding to visit the Archaeological<br />

Museum with interesti ng exhibits from Neolithic graves around<br />

the city, mummifi ed corpses and other fascinati ng archaeological<br />

fi nds. The same goes for the famous painti ngs exhibited at the Strossmayer’s<br />

Gallery and the Modern Gallery.<br />

DOLAC OUTDOOR MARKET PLACE<br />

Almost everyone who visits Zagreb stops at Dolac and under the colourful<br />

Dolac sun-umbrellas has a chat with the kumice - women from<br />

the surrounding villages who have been coming into the city for centuries<br />

to sell home-grown fruit and vegetables, home-made fresh cheese<br />

and sour cream and fl owers. It’s become so normal to see scenes from<br />

Dolac on TV that we fi nd it almost strange when we do not see the<br />

good-natured kumice smiling to us from the TV screens day aft er day.<br />

This doesn’t mean that the city market is an “offi cial” sight-seeing<br />

locati on; It is an inti mate spot for all those who love the irresisti ble<br />

combinati on of the Cathedral’s bell tower, small barbecue bars in the<br />

shadow of every house, small piles of fruit and vegetables, along with<br />

the orange-pink cacophony of fl owers. On Saturday every self-respecting<br />

poseur appears at Dolac to see and be seen at the informal social<br />

event that is Špica, getti ng involved city gossip and, of course, coff ee<br />

against the background of leek, chard and aubergines.<br />

13

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