Waterval Boven Guide - December 2011.pdf - Climb ZA

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Abbreviations D - Number of quickdraws needed including chains, always take one extra. A - Indicates anchors present if it‟s a trad climb B - Number of bolts, if it‟s on a trad climb R - Run-out! (trad climbs only) X - Death potential (trad climbs only) P - number of pegs (old climbs only) TR - Top-rope route, 1-2 of these only. FA - First Asent by… BB - Bolted by…. RB - Rebolted date… Trad climbs are indicated by an „old style‟ font and by the abbreviation „Trad‟. „MCSA bolts‟ indicates that the Johannesburg and Magaliesberg sections of the Mountain Club of South Africa sponsored the bolts, for specified new climbs and for rebolted old climbs. Big thanks to the MCSA for this support. Finding the Climbs Topo drawings do not feature in this book, most of the climbs are easy to find once you are at the crag. Names of the routes are often written in black marker pen or scratched onto the rock at the base of the climb. Maybe the names are only written on a couple of the routes, find these as a reference to the others If you are struggling to find a climb, ask a local if there is one around.. Sectors are described approximately from left to right (south to north) along the escarpment; from Wonderland to Triple Tier then The Restaurant Crags, Sport Valley, then the Waterfall Crags. At each crag, climbs are described from left to right when facing the rock. Useful websites Climb.co.za is SA‟s number one climbing site www.climb.co.za. Forum, climbing info, events, partners etc. Dirk Smith has some of the best pictures of Boven climbing http://dirksmith.smugmug.com/Climbing-trips/South-Africa/Various-Pics-of-Waterval-Boven Micky Wiswedel Photograpy has some more excellent pics of Boven, go to the climbing tab. http://www.mickywiswedel.com/ The Mountain Club of South Africa: http://cen.mcsa.org.za Roc n Rope Adventure is the heart and soul of Boven. www.rocrope.com 15
South African Grades Just remember 30 is 8a! Not quite the same as the Australian system which is one grade out! The grades in SA, in particular Boven are considered solid, no „holiday‟ grades like at Kalymnos or Thailand. 16
Page 1 and 2: GUIDE TO CLIMBING AT WATERVAL BOVEN
Page 3 and 4: DISCLAIMER ........................
Page 5: The Junkyard ......................
Page 8 and 9: degrees during the day and sub zero
Page 10 and 11: Groceries, money and other stuff Th
Page 12 and 13: to these crags. If you do experienc
Page 14 and 15: Climbing Safety Boven rock is rema
Page 18 and 19: Updates and New Routes If you want
Page 21 and 22: ALS BELLS AREA At the far East (lef
Page 23 and 24: YELLOW POLKA DOT 25 **** [11D] A ra
Page 25 and 26: crack to step up and left onto the
Page 27 and 28: RUBIKS CUBE BOULDER The free-standi
Page 29 and 30: BABOONS IN BOARDSHORTS 14 ** [7D] A
Page 31 and 32: THORN BETWEEN THE ROSES 12 *** [7D]
Page 33 and 34: ICE SCREAM SUNDAE 22 *** [16D] 65m!
Page 35 and 36: GODZILLA 32 ***** [14D] Boven‟s '
Page 37 and 38: very defensive little hold, take a
Page 39 and 40: ASPECT: East-north-east. APPROACH A
Page 41 and 42: HAMSTER HOTEL 15 ** [6D] Start at t
Page 43 and 44: THE HARDER YOU PUSH, THE HARDER IT
Page 45 and 46: ANGEL OF MERCY 16 **** [8D] A class
Page 47 and 48: LINING YOUR POCKETS 17 *** [9D] Cli
Page 49 and 50: The Superbowl One of the best crags
Page 51 and 52: GIANTS 27 *** [12D] Starts about 30
Page 53 and 54: INTO THE BLACK 21 ** [15D] Just lef
Page 55 and 56: The Theatre A few incredible lines
Page 57 and 58: HEART OF CHINA 23 **** [Trad, A] CL
Page 59: ASPECT: The main wall is down by th
Page 62 and 63: downstream of the following 2 route
Page 64 and 65: ASPECT: North! It is not called the
Page 66 and 67:
ABROUTE 17 * [Trad] Nowdays people
Page 68 and 69:
THE RESTAURANT CRAGS This was the f
Page 70 and 71:
Karen Varga crushing holds on Erase
Page 72 and 73:
OUT THROUGH THE IN DOOR 22 *** [13D
Page 74 and 75:
Climbs are described from left to r
Page 76 and 77:
Monsoon Wall A fun little crag. A b
Page 78 and 79:
APPROACH From the cairns as you arr
Page 80 and 81:
The Boulevard HEIGHT: 15 - 18 Metre
Page 82 and 83:
GUY'S SLAB 28 *** [7D] The steep an
Page 84 and 85:
Climbs are described from left to r
Page 86 and 87:
MERCI MY BROTHER 26 **** [9D] A rou
Page 88 and 89:
BOLTS FROM HELL 18 *** [10D,R] 45m
Page 90 and 91:
BLOOD TRANSFUSION 20 *** [9D] Start
Page 92 and 93:
clean both UM and TB and its name i
Page 94:
THE WATERFALL CRAGS Waterval Boven
Page 97 and 98:
Steve Bretherik on ‘Satans Temple
Page 99 and 100:
walk approx 200 metres along the ba
Page 101 and 102:
DUST FROM A DISTANT SUN 19 *** [Tra
Page 103 and 104:
ECCENTRICA GALLUMBITZ 20 *** [Trad]
Page 105 and 106:
The Wild Side After doing all the o
Page 107 and 108:
SOUTH CORNER 15 * [Trad] Climb the
Page 109 and 110:
ASPECT: This is not really a crag,
Page 111 and 112:
PIT FIGHTER 31 **** Sport Tranquili
Page 113 and 114:
COACH 26 *** Sport Superbowl POES I
Page 115 and 116:
ANTHEM FOR DOOMED YOUTH 23 * Sport
Page 117 and 118:
MRS DOUBTFIRE 22 *** Sport The Beac
Page 119 and 120:
THE GALLERY 20 *** Sport The School
Page 121 and 122:
SHIVER ME TIMBERS 18 *** Sport Neve
Page 123 and 124:
GLASS AND A HALF 16 ** Sport Monsoo
Page 125:
The author on ‘Welcome To Ovambol
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Waterval Boven Guide - December 2011.pdf - Climb ZA

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