The Restaurant at the End of the Universe (The ... - Climb ZA

The Restaurant at the End of the Universe

The Restaurant at the End of the Universe
The Restaurant at the End of the Universe (The Restaurant for short) is one of SA's best sport climbing areas which attracts
many overseas climbers all through the year. It has over 400 bolted lines and about 100 trad or semi-bolted routes. The wide
variance in grades allows beginners and hard-core climbers alike to climb for months on end! Good quality rock, cheap camping
facilities and chalets all within walking distance from the crags make this an excellent area.
How to get there
One can drive, take the Greyhound bus or even take the train which stops in the town. People taking the bus or train can
arrange to be colleted by Roc 'n Rope, see their contact details under Accommodation. To drive to the Restaurant from
Johannesburg take the N12 (or N4 from Pretoria) eastward towards Witbank. These highways merge after Witbank (take care
on the way back to take the correct one). Once they have merged you will be on the N4 travelling eastward towards Nelspruit.
Pass Middleburg and the R20.60 toll gate. Once you pass Machadodorp you are about 20km away. Another toll gate must be
passed, this time R30.60. Keep looking right for the sign "Waterval Boven" where you should turn right. If you pass through a
tunnel you have missed the turn by a few kilometres. (The journey is about 275km from Johannesburg all on fairly good
highways with two toll gates.) Once you are have turned right off the N4 travelling into Waterval Boven drive through the town.
At the second stop street you will see the Roc 'n Rope house on your left. To get to the campsite turn right here into 5th Street.
Two kilometres later you will see the Elandskrans Resort (camping and chalets, see details under Accommodation) on your left
just where the tar ends. To bypass the second toll (R30) take the second turnoff to Machadadorp, follow the road until you get
to an intersection, take the left turn, not the right one marked Carolina. Follow the road for a few km until you see a dirt road
marked "Slaaihoek" to your left. Follow this road taking the next turnoff to Waterval Boven, this road passes the Wonderland
crags & when it again meets the tar you will see the entrance to Elandskrans on your right. This alternative is mainly dirt and
takes about 30 minutes from the highway. After heavy rains this road can be 'fun'!
Accommodation, Food & Rest Day Stuff Etc.
The Elandskrans resort is a good base while at The Restaurant since it is central to most of the crags and offers cheap camping
facilities & chalets including a heated pool. You can contact their central reservations on (011) 825-4304. Remember to ask for
a discount if you are an MCSA member and have your membership card with you. Usually you do not need to book, except for
the chalets. Roc 'n Rope also offers good, cheap accommodation in a house in town. This makes a good base especially if
climbing at the Gorge, Railway & Wonderland areas. Contact them on (013) 257-0363 or 082 753-3695 try
rocrope@hotmail.com or climb@rocrope.com. They also supply several other services including a climbing guide service.
There are two restaurants in the town, the "Whistle & Trout" and the "Shamrock Arms". There is also a Sentra supermarket,
bottlestore and now bank teller (ATM) in town. If you wish to travel further afield 20km back towards Johannesburg you can eat
at Millys Star Stop just off the highway where there is a BJs with cheap food in a lakeside, thatched restaurant that also serves
excellent trout. There is a Star Stop shop here where you can also get provisions (including bottled water) and of course fill up
with petrol. There is a scenic steam train ride to Waterval Onder on weekends and plenty of hiking in the area. The Sudwala
caves are a good bet as are many other toursit destinations including several stunning waterfalls. The famous Kruger National
Park is about 2-3hours away and makes for good rest day activity. Also about an hour away is a bouldering area called
Kaapsehoop with plenty of easy to moderate bouldering. Many other areas in this province offer unclimbed crags for kilometres
on end...
Safety & Medical
Take care when parking or climbing away from the Resort at "The Gorge Area", "Railway Crags" and "Wonderland" areas.
Make sure you lock your car and leave nothing visible in the car. When at "The Gorge Area" dont leave anything at the top of
the crags, clip it into a bolt on the cliff, petty theft is common here. All other crags are generally safe and no-one should steal
your gear. A first aid dump is usually kept at the main gate to the resort. There is a fairly good clinic a few hundred metres from
the resort on the way to the town for minor injuries. For serious accidents call the MCSA Metro Rescue on 011 315-0203 or
call the local police.
Ethics
If you are opening new routes please make sure they are safely and adequately bolted. Stainless steel only and make sure
there are two lower offs. Avoid creating led out routes they are usually avoided, this being unfair on other climbers. Rember too
that led out routes are often unsafe at The Restaurant since there are sometimes ledges etc. that you will hit on the not so steep
routes when you fall. When you bolt a route please do it safely.
A big thank you to Barbara Curson for providing all the original route information.
Remember that you can buy an excellently produced print version of the route guide from Roc 'n Rope at Waterval
Boven or at most of the climbing stores.

Wonderland Area *****
This is one of the best areas at The Restaurant with some of the longer (30m+) routes including many classics like
Snapdragon & Jabberwocky. The property was purchased by the MCSA recently and they have opened access to all
climbers. Over a kilometre of cliff face exists and there is a great deal of new route potential here.
There are 135 routes here at present ranging in grade from 12 to 33. The Theatre & Left/Right Wings also have a few trad
lines. So far a few open projects exist that will be both hard and awesome.
Triple Tier Crags ***
When looking out from the campsite you will see a valley with crags starting at the river. The crags are spread out, starting
from The Gym, He-Man Area, Foundry then Acid House and finally The Far Side. Many of these routes require abseiling.
There are 56 routes here, all bolted, ranging from 12 to 28.
Gaper Area ****
The cliff just below and going around half of the campsite. Some good long lines.
There are 59 routes here, mostly bolted, ranging from 11 to 28.
The Island ****
When looking out from the campsite back towards the town and slightly right you will see an island of rock close to the main
road (N4). There are one or two natural lines here as well.
There are 49 routes here, almost all bolted ranging from 13 to 28.
Sport Valley ****
The crags in the small valley on the town side of the campsite. These crags include some excellent beginner crags with
many easier lines.
There are 79 routes here, almost all bolted, ranging from 8 to 27. There are also a few open projects that will be pretty hard.
Gorge Area *****
The most spectacular crags are here with views of the waterfall and in a beautiful setting. Classics like Unlimited Power are
found here. Tricky access in places with bolted & trad lines. Take great care here due to the long routes, (30+m) please tie
knots in the end of the rope!
There are 21 routes here, mostly bolted with a few trad lines at The Junkyard, grades range from 13 to 29.
Railway Crags *****
These are mostly undeveloped and are the continuation of The Gorge Area moving rightwards for a few kilometres along
the railway lines. The Toon Town area has many trad lines and a few bolted lines. There is still scope for hundreds of good
and long bolted lines here and development has started again on The Last Crag of the Century. Some crags are quite a
distance from the campsite.
There are 56 routes here, both bolted and trad lines, ranging from 3 to 26. An open project can be found here too.

Guide for Wonderland
The crags in this area are amongst the best at The Restaurant and sport many classic routes. There have unfortunately
been a few breakins to cars parked at the old parking next to the road & cliff face.There is now a new parking at the farmer's
house. Drive along the Slaaihoek road (left out of Elandskrans resort) and onto the dirt road that leads up the hill. Follow this
for almost 5km until you see farm houses on your right. This is about 300m further than the old Hallucinogenic parking. Take
the driveway that leads up right to two houses. Follow the driveway through the stone gates which leads to the face brick
house, NOT the white house. You can then park up in the right hand corner, under the large trees. There is no charge for
the parking and you don't have to report to the farmer, you can just park and walk back to the cliff which takes about 10 to
15 minutes. Cross the road & the fence leading to the cliff edge is the access for God No! Wall.
Backstage
These crags are from the far left upto the God NO! wall. This is a new section of rock to which we have recently gained
access thanks to the MCSA. Either access the crag from God NO! leftward or walk along the top until you get to a break
where you can scramble down, some of the routes start right here. There is potential for some super hard lines and many
moderate ones too. The leftmost section of this crag is called Baboon Buttress.
NO NAME YET 22 [6D,A]
Starts in a big roof 4m off the gound up a crackline on the Baboon Buttress.
First Ascent: 2002 Mark Seuring
UP IN SMOKE 21 [B,A]
About 3m left of MARIANNE's PROJECT.
MARIANNE'S PROJECT [B,A]
Project 8m left of UP ALARD'S CRACK.
UP ALARD'S CRACK 17 [10D,A]
If you enjoy chimney's, this one is for you. The route is in the gully between God NO! wall and Baboon Buttress.
First Ascent: Alard Hufner 2000
The God No Wall
Take the dirt road to the left out of the Elandskraal resort towards Slaaihoek. Follow the road up the hill, you should see the
resort and the Restaurant face to your left. See Wonderland description for parking. There is a fence running to the cliff,
follow it to the cliff face. There is a scramble about 200m north (left) of this point or you can rap down, take care with this
being a high crag of up to 40m in places. The sun leaves the face by late morning.
ALARD'S PROJECT 28+ [B,A]
Hard project left of God NO! Wall.
ALARD'S MONSTER 30+ [B,A]
Alard's project dubbed "MONSTER" which will be rather hard!
JACK OF ALL TRADES 29 **** [15D,A]
The crackline to the left of the wall, previously 'Slops Project'. This is an excellent 40m route.
First Ascent: Tessa Little 1998 BB Mike Hislop
JABBERWOCKY 33 **** [14D,A]
The route up the middle of the face, one of the hardest lines in SA.
First Ascent: Richard Lord 1993
PROJECT
The IP between JABBERWOCKY & ROCK-CHUKA-CHICK. On 01/01/2000 there were no bolts on this line. This project will
become open should no bolts be added!
First Ascent:
ROCK-CHUKA-CHICK 24 **** [17D,A]
Starts about 10m right of JABBERWOCKY. About 40m of technical, fun & rather pumpy moves with good exposure.
First Ascent: Marianne Pretorius 1999
BIG BAD WOLF 24 ** [16D,A]
10m right of ROCK-CHUKA-CHICK is a 35-40m long route.
First Ascent: Alard Hufner 1999
ALICE IN GRANNYLAND 24 [16D,A]
This route is fairly long at almost 40m.
First Ascent: Greg Watkins 1998
The Little Red Wall
Park as for the Wonderland area. Follow the fence which goes to the edge of the crag & rap down 'Jack of All Trades' or
walk North (left) to a cairn & take the ill-defined path to the base of the crag. The left fork in this path leads you to
Hallucinogenic Wall. Take care not to miss the cairn or you will walk all the way to the right of Hallucenogenic Wall. This
crag is just to the right of the God No Wall being a little red wall compared to God No. You can also reach this crag by
walking left from Hallucenogenic Wall and taking the ill defined path downward once the HW ends. This crag used to be
known as The Disciple Area. Sun leaves this wall by late morning.
THE DAY OF THE TRIFFIDS 19 [N]
This trad route is between ALICE IN GRANNYLAND & GRANNIE'S COTTAGE. It takes the obvious yellow streak up the
middle of the vertical wall - brilliant.
First Ascent: Stewart Middlemiss & I Schwartz 1998
GOODWILL VAN DIE ZOELOES 21 *** [N]

Start either 4m right of the fig tree, or abseil to the ledge, 3m right of the top branches of the tree. From the ledge (4m off the
ground) move left to a thin seam (3m), climb this until it peters out. Continue straight up the black streak to the top.
First Ascent: Ian Manson, G Shepston 1992
GRANNIE'S COTTAGE 25 [8D,A]
This route was the old 'Digiridoo Project'.
First Ascent: Matthew Murison 1998 BB Rob Cormak & Chris Vandereyalt
LITTLE RED RIDING HOOD 25 *** [9D,A]
Thin & cruxy near the top.
First Ascent: Tessa Little BB Matthew Murison
THE LOAN ARRANGER 25 * [N]
Trad route just right of LITTLE RED RIDING HOOD. Climb the crack in the middle of the wall, first diagonally right to a
thread, then left and up. Hack your way to the top. Don't forget your spade!
First Ascent: Stewart Middlemiss, Mike Hislop 1992
HIM SPEAK WITH FORKED TONGUE 23 [N]
Trad line just right of 'THE LOAN ARRANGER'
First Ascent: Stewart Middlemiss & I Schwartz 1998
HALONGMAISHLONG 20 *** [B,A]
This line is about 15m right of LITTLE RED RIDING HOOD.
First Ascent: Alard Hufner 1999
Hallucinogenic Wall
Walk as for the God No wall but follow the shorter band of rock at the top rather than decending to the GNW. The short wall
increases in height from left to right. About 20m into the forest where the rock is about 16m high you will find Dexters Lab.
The crag has sun in the morning until about midday on most climbs and shade for the rest of the day. See Wonderland
access for parking.
RAT PALLACE 21 [9D,A]
A little way along the path appraoching from the left. Climb the face up to a small roof and up to the chains above.
First Ascent: Darryl Margetts, G. Frost, H. Pringle May 2001
COMFORT ZONE 20 [6D,A]
Situated in the middle of the short face on the very left of Hallucinogenic wall.
First Ascent: H. Pringle, G. Frost, N. McKenzie, D. Margetts, A. Grant May 2001
HEY PAPPA 23 [5D,A]
The route is the leftmost line on a small open face about 60m left of DEXTER'S LAB.
It climbs a prominent crack, after which you pass some ledges and pockets to the left, to gain a thin crack at the top with
some technical climbing.
First Ascent: Albert Smit 2000
OPEN PROJECT
Open project to the left of DEXTER'S LAB.
BAMBOOZLED 26 [9D,A]
About 20m left of DEXTER'S LAB.
First Ascent: 2002 Mark Seuring
DEXTER'S LAB 22 **** [12D,A]
Starts about 20m into the forest from the left. Climbs an off width, layback crack for about 13m to a ledge. Move up and left
off the ledge through an overhang.
First Ascent: Voytek Modrevski 1998
MIKE BEHR'S ROUTE 22 [7D,A]
About 5m left of WICKED.
First Ascent: 2000 Mike Behr & Clive Curzon.
WICKED 26 ** [10D,A]
Climbs a recessed face about 15m right of DEXTER'S LAB. It is a powerful route and the crux is very hard if you have a
small arm span.
First Ascent: Alard Hufner 1999
DROP KICKED 26 *** [9D,A]
2 Metres right of DROP KICKED.
First Ascent: Alard Hufner 2000
FIVE LIVES LEFT 19 [8D,A]
1.5m right of DROP KICKED.
First Ascent: Alard Hufner 2000
DUTCH POPCORN 26 *** [12D,A]
Starts 3m right of FIVE LIVES LEFT starting in an overhanging corner and moving right onto the face and then up into the
next open book. It finishes on the right. Put your thinking cap on for this route.
First Ascent: Alard Hufner 1999
I JUST CANT BOLT IT 20 [N]
AD MAIOREM DEI GLORIAM 23 [8D,A]
Also known as AMDG for short. Starts 10m right of DUTCH POPCORN around the corner and 10m left of M&M. It takes a
line up the wall through two roofs. Start on ledge 5m off the ground behind large tree. The route goes through two roofs.
First Ascent: Dermot Brogan Jan 2000
SNAKESKIN SAFARI SUIT 18 *** [10D,A]
Climb the line of bolts in the right facing corner, left of MOON DANCE, next to a small pinacle.
First Ascent: Jan 2000 Greg Devine, Daryyl Margetts, N. McKenzie, D. Chesney
M&M 30 [7D,A]
The climb goes up the thin seam about 8m to the right of AD MAIREM DEI GLORIAM and just to the left of a 7m high pillar.
Step right off the pillar at about 3m up onto the face on a good jug. Climb up for 7m on tiny grips to a roof. At the roof

traverse left for about 4m to a layback seam. Climb up the seam to the chains. Some consensus grading is requested.
First Ascent: Matt Murison & Mark Seuring Mar 1999
MOONDANCE 20 *** [12D,A]
Climbs the recess about 5m to the right of the M&M box (pillar), for about 15m. Some crack climbing.
First Ascent: Clair Keeton 1999 BB Mark Seuring
ANTS IN YOUR PANTS 28 * [6D,A]
About 20m right of MOONDANCE. Features a crux that can be harder without a huge armspan.
First Ascent: Mark Seuring 1999
ONCE IN A BLUE MOON 19 ** [11D,A]
Start below the chimney in the corner, climb the layback crack to gain the chimney, climb up inside the chimney and make a
tricky move to exit the chimney to gain the thin face above, which leads directly up to the chains. The face at the top
provides excellent climbing.
First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts Jan 1999
BLOOD ON THE ROCKS 23+ *** [10D,A]
Goes up and to the left of the arete. (Opened at 21!)
First Ascent: Dylan Morgan
DOOM 18 ** [10D,A]
Start in the middle of the face about 1m left of CENOTAPH CORNER, which starts in the corner, continues diagonally up left
to the arete, then up the arete tending up right to the chains above.
First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts Jan 1999
NEITHER HERE NOR THERE 19 *** [A]
This climb has only been top roped using the chains on DOOM, as it was decided that it would be too contrived with
CENOTAPH CORNER to the right and DOOM to the left. However, it is a good climb if you don't move onto these other
climbs. The easiest is to climb DOOM to set up the top rope. Start in the middle of the face about 1m left of the corner, as
for DOOM, continue straight up the middle of the face avoiding going too far left onto DOOM, to the same chains as DOOM.
First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts Jan 1999
CENOTAPH CORNER 16 **** [9D,A]
Starts in the corner with a chimney, climb up and out of the chimney and continue up the corner to finish on the chains just
to the left.
First Ascent: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash Jan 1999
OLD CRUSTY'S LAST STAND 18 ** [10D,A]
Climb up the off width to the ledge above, then follow the open book to the top.
First Ascent: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash Feb 1999
BE QUICK OR BE DEAD 25 *** [10D,A]
Starts just right of the off width and about 2m to the left of HIGH SPEED DIRT. Climb the face ONLY (don't use the face on
the other side of the off width). The first few moves are very balancy. The chains are shared with HIGH SPEED DIRT.
First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts Nov 1998
HIGH SPEED DIRT 20/21 **** [11D,A]
Starts to the right of the face around the corner from WOMEN AIN'T NOTHING BUT TROUBLE, opposite the large tree.
Follow the crack all the way to the top, sharing the same chains as the BE QUICK OR BE DEAD & OLD CRUSTY'S LAST
STAND.
First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts Nov 1998
WOMEN AIN'T NOTHING BUT TROUBLE 24 **** [9D,A]
Starts about 3m to the left of CHICS FOR FREE, climb the face directly in line with the bolts through a crux and then move
right to an obvious layback crack to the chains.
First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts Dec 1998
CHICS FOR FREE 15 ** [9D,A]
Starts about 10 m around the corner of TECHER'S PET and follows the corner to the top.
First Ascent: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash Nov 1998
TEACHER'S PET 15 * [8D,A]
Start about 4m to the left of the pinnacle.
First Ascent: Greg Devine & Darryl Margetts Jan 1999
PROJECT [A]
Steve Broccardos's project between TEACHER'S PET & ZELLWEGER.
ZELLWEGER 17 *** [9D,A]
Starts about 2m to the left of THE PALLBEARER and goes off slightly to the right. These chains can also be reached when
coming down from the rap point.
First Ascent: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash Sep 1998
ZELLWEGER VARIATION 17 *** [9D,A]
Climb the same as ZELLWEGER and then move off to the left under the roof and pull through to finish on independent
chains.
First Ascent: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash Sep 1998
THE PALLBEARER 17/18 ** [6D,A]
Starts directly below the rap point and directly opposite FISTICUFFS on the pinnacle.
First Ascent: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash Oct 1998
FISTICUFFS 13 * [5D,A]
Start on the far right corner of the pinnacle, passing the ledge to the top. About opposite ANGEL OF MERCY.
First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts Aug 1998
IT'S 13 JIM, BUT NOT AS WE KNOW IT 15 * [6D,A]
Start on the far left corner of the pinnacle. Lateral thinking is required for this climb. About opposite ANGEL OF MERCY.
First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts Nov 1989
ANGEL OF MERCY 16 **** [8D,A]
Start about 3m to the right of THE PALLBEARER at the upside down V shaped flake. The chains cannot be seen from the
ground.

First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts Oct 1998
DREAM COME TRUE 19 **** [12D,A]
This climb takes the obvious break between YOU MEAN THAT'S IT (on the right) and ANGEL OF MERCY (on the left) and
finishes at 3 chains (one chain is suspect).
First Ascent: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash Apr 1999
YOU MEAN THAT'S IT 21 ** [10D,A]
This climb has a technical start and is spoilt by all the large ledges and easy climbing higher up.
First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts Sep 1998
THE WINNEBAGO SMILE 19 ** [N]
We are not sure where this climb fits in, can you help ? Climb the thin crack up the shallow recess, and then the crack
above to the top.
First Ascent: J Sydow, P Lloyd, Ian Manson 1992
AY MAAR DIE MENS IS N WONDERLLIKE DING 21 ** [N]
Climb the short face to a thin seam and up this into a right facing corner - move left to top out. The route name was
overheard at the local cafe.
First Ascent: P Lloyd, J Sydow, Ian Manson 1992
WITLESS 25 *** [1B,N]
Takes the finger crack up the smooth red face. Finger lockin' heaven! With only 1 bolt there may not be too many repeats.
First Ascent: Ian Manson & Mike Hislop 1992
TASK SATURATED 25 **** [11D,A]
Starts about 1.5m right of WITLESS, below the ledge at 2m. Go straight up the face to the undercling, moving left and up to
the chains.
First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts Jun 1999
SANTA'S LITTLE HELPER 20 *** [10D,A]
Follow the line of bolts straight up the face to the left of REMINISCING.
First Ascent: Gareth Frost, Ian McMaster, Darryl Margetts Oct 1999
REMINISCING 17 [D,A]
This route ascends the corner to the left of PLEASE DONT TOUCH. Climb the corner and break out left at the top of the
corner to finish at the chains above a large ledge.
First Ascent: Laubie Lauscher, Steve Broccardo, Darryl Margetts on Natural Gear. Retrobolted by Darryl Margetts.
PLEASE DON'T TOUCH 23 *** [9D,A]
This climb starts about 10m to the right of WITLESS and goes up the south east facing wall. Start by climbing past a bolt
onto a large step, then continue up the south east facing wall to gain the base of a double crack system. Using both cracks
to start with and then using only the right hand one, up to the chains.
First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts Feb 1999
DEAD ANT 21/22 **** [10D,A]
This climb starts around the corner & to the right of PLEASE DONT TOUCH, and moves out left over the V-shaped roof at
about 2m. Using the arete gain the crack system which trends up right to the chains at the top.
First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts Apr 1999
WOOD PILE CRACK 17 *** [9D,A]
This route starts as for DEAD ANT and then goes off to the right to gain the hand crack. Follow the crack to the chains.
First Ascent: Dave Chesney, Ken Thrash, Darryl Margetts 1999
VARIATION TO WOOD PILE CRACK 17 *** [9D,A]
The direct variation of WOOD PILE CRACK. Start directly below the chains, climb the face to gain the hand crack and finish
as for WOOD PILE CRACK.
First Ascent: Dave Chesney, Ken Thrash, Darryl Margetts 1999
GRAVY TRAIN 15 *** [9D,A]
Climb the knarly face to the right of WOODPILE CRACK. Take care with your rope as there is quite a bit of rope wear when
lowering.
First Ascent: Jan 2000 Darryl Margetts, G Frost & N McKenzie
CAPTAIN HOOK 18 **** [12D,A]
Climb the flaring chimney crack right and down around the corner from GRAVY TRAIN and an abandoned project.
First Ascent: May 2000 Tim Wilmot, Greg Devine & Darryl Margetts on Natural gear. Retrobolted by Tim Wilmot, Darryl
Margetts, G.Frost and D. Chesney
THE CLAIREGATE 17 *** [12D,A]
Between AUSSIE RULES & CAPTAIN HOOK the route goes up an open book.
First Ascent: Aug 2000 Dave Chesney, Darryl Margetts
AUSSIE RULES 17 *** [10D,A]
Goes up the broken looking rock about 8m to the right of TIM'S ROUTE.
First Ascent: Nicholas McKensie & Darryl Margetts Oct 1999
PROJECT [A]
Project by G Frost, D Margetts & H Pringle chains but no bolts ye as of 15/03/2001.
FACE IN THE TROUGH 23 **** [9D,A]
A face climb between AUSSIE RULES & FOREST GLUMP.
First Ascent: Jul 2000 Gareth Frost, Darryl Margetts
FOREST GLUMP 14 [10D,A]
The route bypasses the overhang and climbs the face to the left of LINING YOUR POCKETS.
First Ascent: Jul 2000 Opened on trad by Greg Devine, Darryl Margetts, Tim Wilmot & Dave Chesney. Retrobolted by Darryl
Margetts & Dave Chesney.
LINING YOUR POCKETS 17 *** [9D,A]
Climb the line of bolts to the left of MISSION FROM GLOD. Step left onto the face after the 4th bolt.
First Ascent: Apr 2000 Darryl Margetts & G Frost
MISSION FROM GLOD 16 [11D,A]

Start in the corner below a the small roof. Above the roof climb the open book to the chains.
First Ascent: Gareth Frost & Darryl Margetts Oct 1999
SAND GLOD 16 [12D,A]
This is a variation to MISSION FROM GLOD (MFG). Start up the break in the face to the right of MFG and move back into
the open book above the small roof and finish on the last 6 bolts of MFG to finish on the same chains.
First Ascent: Gareth Frost & Darryl Margetts Oct 1999
EMANCIPATED SPIDER CHICKS 20 **** [9D,A]
Climb the face to the left of BUTTERFLY SNOWSTORM.
First Ascent: Apr 2000 G. Frost & Darryl Margetts
BUTTERFLY SNOWSTORM 15 *** [7D,A]
Climb the left facing corner just left of ROCKY'S.
First Ascent: On Trad : Dave Chesney, Darryl Margetts, Greg Devine & Tim Wilmot Retrobolted by G Frost & Darryl
Margetts Apr 2000
ROCKY'S 13 [10D,A]
This climb starts on the far right hand side, starting at the bottom of the steep descent on the walk in.
First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts 1999
THE LADDER 13 [13D,A]
Route just left of ROCKY'S.
First Ascent: Oct 2000 On Trad by Dave Chesney, Darryl Margetts. Retrobolted by Darryl Margetts & Dave Chesney.
The Superbowl
See Wonderland information for access. From the parking you can walk back along the road until you see a small cairn on
the right side of the road. You should see a drain going under the road here - a path leads off from here. It takes you to the
cliff face where it splits. The path to the right & down will lead you to some hard to find rap points, take care some of the
crags are 30m high. The left option takes you to a small cairn which indicates a u-turn in the path which then heads down a
steep gully to the crags. You can also walk along the cliff from God No or Hallucinogenic & keep going until you see the
cairn & path doing a u-turn down a steep path to the crags. The sun leaves the face by mid-morning. This crag is superb
with some real long classics - a must. There are a few bushmen paintings and pottery remains here, please don't remove or
deface them.
FRAZZLE 31 **** [B,A]
Like SNAPDRAGON this is an excellent route. It was once Roger's Project and is 5m left of SNAPDRAGON.
First Ascent: Jan 2000 Paul Brouard, Bolted by Roger Nattrass and some by Matt Murison.
SNAPDRAGON 28+ ***** [13D,A]
This is one of the best 28's in SA and offers superb climbing over 30m.
First Ascent: Richard Lord & Mike Hislop 1992
HACK AND SLAY 31 *** [16D,A,R]
Starts 6m right of SNAPDRAGON. Also about 30m in length. The route has a bouldery crux which has been made harder of
late with some crux holds breaking off. Rather lead out at the top.
First Ascent: Richard Lord 1994
GIANTS 26 ** [12D,A]
About 15 to 20m right of 'Hack and Slay'. Climb the overlaps to anchors at the huge roof.
First Ascent: Mike Cartwright 1993
RUDE BUSHMEN 24 **** [15D,A]
This route starts 3m left of 'Lotters Desire'. Short people cheat with some rocks to start the route.
First Ascent: Alard Hufner 1998
LOTTER'S DESIRE 28 **** [11D,A]
This is an excellent climb on what may appear to be a slabby wall but be careful as it is steep. It goes up the right side of the
red wall which is a right facing corner. Anchors have been added recently.
First Ascent: 1993 Richard Lord BB Gary Lotter
TUGELA BLUE 27 **** [13D]
About 15m right of LOTTERS DESIRE this route blasts through the roofs heading slightly right. Clipping the 3rd bolt before
starting, avoids horrible rope drag. This route overhangs by almost 10m!
First Ascent: Alard Hufner 1998
SOUL MANDATE 25 **** [11D,A]
About 5m left of MISS MCKINLEY, starting between the fork of the big white tree. A thuggish start leads to some really good
climbing above.
First Ascent: Jul 2004 Mark Millar
MISS MCKINLEY 23 *** [9D,A]
Starts just right of the main overhang. The first moves are bouldery. Careful of the tree.
First Ascent: Alard Hufner 1998
STRATA 32 **** [B,A]
Good route with a tough crux higher up. This starts just left of TRIPOLACTIC FAIRYTALES.
First Ascent: Paul Brouard April 2001 BB Matthew Murison
TRIPOLACTIC FAIRYTALES 27 **** [8D]
Originally an open project of Martin Seegers. Some good moves to a ledge in a corner and back onto the face to the chains.
First Ascent: Will Watkins Jul 1998 BB Darryl Margetts & Matt Murison
BEEHIVE 12 * [15D,A]
Just right of TRIPOLACTIC FAIRYTALES there is a tree growing on the rock. The route starts right of the roots. Move
leftward toward the recess above and then up the wall to the left. Take care of the bees.
First Ascent: Greg Devine & Darryl Margetts 1996
TREE HOUSE 20 ** [14D,A]

Goes through the tree roots as for BEEHIVE to the recess. Take care of the bees.
First Ascent: Darryl Margetts & Greg Debvine Apr 1996
PARADISE BY THE SEA 27 *** [10D,A]
Takes the steep line just to the right of TREE HOUSE.
First Ascent: Mark Seuring
HALLUCIGENIC TOREADOR 27 *** [13D]
Climbs the line 5m left of SLEEPLESS TAD.
First Ascent: C Nicole Mar 1997 BB Darryl Margetts
SLEEPLESS TAD 22 *** [5D,N]
About 10m right of the tree roots is a bolt at 5-6m. You need extra natural gear. Follow the two bolts and crack to overhang.
Traverse 3m right and ascend corner to ledge. Traverse right to recess, follow to chains.
First Ascent: Darryl Margetts & Martin Seegers 1992
PROJECT 22+
First Ascent: BB Darryl Margetts
CLUB TROPICANA COCONUTS 24 ** [9D,A]
The route is about 3 meters right of the sparsely bolted 22 and about 8 meters left of Glen.
First Ascent: Aug 1999 Sybren van der Leij
GLEN 21 *** [14D,A]
15m right of the tree roots.
First Ascent: Darryl Margetts
INTO THE BLACK 20 ** [15D,A]
Starts 3m right of GLEN. Could actually be a 21.
First Ascent: Darryl Margetts 1998
PRECISION FEATHER 21 *** [12D,A]
Starts just right of INTO THE BLACK. Some interesting moves.
PENNY ROYAL TEE 17 **** [14D,A]
80-100m right of LOTTER'S DESIRE.
TEEN SPIRIT 20 *** [14D?,A]
The climb starts in the offwidth layback crack about 2m to the right of PENNY ROYAL TEE. Climb this crack until it is
possible to move out left. Continue up the face to finish with a mantle at the top to clip the chains.

The Left Wings
To get there walk as for the Superbowl and follow the path down the gully. This path splits, take the right, and often poorlydefined
path to the left. The routes start about 50m along. Shady after 11h30 or so depending on season.
HERMAN THE GERMAN 26 ** [10B]
Climb up the next route to the recess, rail 2m left and then up the headwall.
HERMAN'S ROUTE 24 ** [5D,N]
Stick clip the 1st bolt or place friends. Move up wall to gain recess. Climb right and up to a tree. There are no anchors.
First Ascent: Herman du Plessis 1992
CHUNKY MONKEY 27 **** [9D,A]
The route is located around the corner, 20m to the right of HERMAN'S ROUTE. It starts at blocks at a prominent roofed
arete, with a small roof at about 8m and a large square roof at 12 m. The line follows 7 bolts up this arete, railing out along
the lip of the large roof to end on a face at chains.
HOUNDS MOUSSE 25 [11D,A]
8m right of CHUNKEY MONKEY.
NEW YORK CHOCOLATE FUDGE CRUNCH 18 ** [10D,A]
There is a big corner topped by a roof just right of CHUNKY MONKEY. This route takes the arete right of this corner. The
lower offs are too small to fit both rope & draws through when cleaning.
TRUE BLUE 16 ** [N]
Takes the corner left of WYSIWYG. Route may be retrobolted - see WYSIWYG description.
WYSIWYG 12 * [N]
Climbs the obvious corner ramp to the left of the large stacked roofs. Permission has been given for this route to be
retrobolted as long as the opening party & route names remain the same.
TIM'S PROJECT 28+ [N,A]
Climbs the steep red wall with anchors.
HOME ALONE 19 [N]
Climb the corner and up a short v-groove to the top. Route may be retrobolted - see WYSIWYG description.
ALICE 21 *** [N]
5m left of THROUGH THE LOOKING GLASS. Climb the crack for 20m to the top. This is possibly the same route as
PUPPET ON A STRING.
PUPPET ON A STRING 20 **** [N]
About 50-60m along right from the descent gully is a shallow corner. Just left is a fine looking crack. Climb the crack. Route
may be retrobolted - see WYSIWYG description.
THROUGH THE LOOKING GLASS 20 *** [N]
The shallow corner. Route may be retrobolted - see WYSIWYG description.
UITERS TORS 21 * [N,R]
Trad route between THROUGH THE LOOKING GLASS & ENDLESS OCTOBER. Climbs a gnarly thin seam & trends up &
left. Poor gear.
The Theatre
Access as for Left Wings. From the descent gully walk northwards (right) for about 150m to the obvious amphitheatre or rap
in from the top. Shady from midday.
ENDLESS OCTOBER 24 **** [9D,A]
At the left end of The Theatre is a raised ledge/block. Scramble up about 8m further along and walk back to the left hand
edge. Climb out left and up to the chains.
SWEET COUSIN COCAINE 25 *** [10D,A]
From the right of the block climb past a bouldery lower section and a crack to the right of the overlap to a two bolt lower-off.
We need verification if there are indeed top anchors on this route ?
NIGHT OF THE TOAST 23 ** [N,1P]
The obvious crackline on the left of The Theatre, just left of SWEET COUSIN COCAINE.
First Ascent: Stewart Middlemiss 1991
BIKINI RED 27 **** [9D]
Starts 3m right of the obvious crack NIGHT OF THE TOAST.
SHUT UP AND DIE LIKE AN AVIATOR 16 ** [N,R]
Climbs the scoop 5m right of BIKINI RED. Very poorly protected.
First Ascent: Mike Hislop 1992
STAGE FRIGHT 20 [N]
Climbs the arete to the choss above. Possibly has anchors ?
CENTRE STAGE 18 [N]
This is the leftmost route on the right wall of The Theatre. Climbs the corner. Fight your way through the choss at the top
and avoid killing people below. Possibly has some bolts now.
INTO THE NIGHT WE SLIDE 23 ** [N]
Just to the right of the major dihedral in The Theatre, a few metres left of HEART OF CHINA. Sparse gear.
HEART OF CHINA 23 **** [N,1B,A]
Splits the right half of The Theatre. One of the best lines at The Restaurant, if more stainless steel could be added.
GRANT'S PROJECT 28+ **** [8B,A]
The line of 'accidentally' smashed bolts just to the left of HEART OF CHINA'S impressive crack. Face moves with a bouldery
crux.
KINDRED SPIRITS 25 **** [9D]
At the right end of the ledge, climb up a few moves, and right around the corner to under a roof (awkward 2nd clip out left).
From here crank wildly to the top.

The Right Wings
Access as for Left Wings. This crag starts about 25m right of 'Kindred Spirits'. Shady in the afternoon.
STAR GAZERS 17 [N]
Approximately 30m right of THE THEATRE, are a pair of open books at the top of the crag. They are 10m apart - the right
hand one has a pillar at its foot and a tree 5m up. Start below this one. Gain the ledge below the tree and then follow the
crack above to the top of the pillar below the open book. Climb this and exit left.
WAITING FOR GOSSIP 23 *** [?D,N]
Climbs the corner to the left of DAMN THE TORPEDOES. Scramble up to the tree on the left and traverse to a ledge on the
right (bolt). Climb the corner to a roof, pull through and up to a tree at the top.
DAMN THE TORPEDOES 26+ *** [1B,2P,N,A]
Climb the corner 20m left of JOY DIVISION. Great climbing with a single stopper crux.
PAUL'S PROJECT 31+ [B]
Project left of JOY DIVISION.
JOY DIVISION 29 **** [10D,N]
Climb slightly rightwards up the thin face, until you can move back left to reach the base of the corner. Carry on to the top.
Guide for Triple Tier Crags
This is the obvious rock visible when looking East from The Restaurant or the Campsite. From a break in the fence at the
campsite an eroded gaper path leads down to the river. Rough distances are given:
Hole through Campsite fence 0
Junction with path along Restaurant Crag 40
Stream overlook (Gym is down to your right) 210
Round right past waterfall to twin aloe's opposite 400
Too Early For The Sky - Rap bolts 550
Belay station to view Shadow Man 570
Shadow Man Bolts (5m apart on the Time Bomb block) 590
"Incidently" I'm Macho rap bolts 700
Rock Platform (Rap down Smoulder) 760
The next rap chain, down a large corner 790
Chains above "Vol L"ibre 830
Fence 960
Far Side Chains on boulder platform 1000
All the Triple Tier crags except the Gym face northish, so they are in the sun for most of the day. Good winter climbing.
Some routes & areas require abseiling.
The Far Side
Visible from afar as a very smooth steep face topped by a huge block. Rap chains take one down from this block. 600m
from the Gym. Hot in summer!
NEW AGE 25 **** [8D,A]
Start up the corner crack for 2m, then head up the black streak.
JOYRIDE 20 *** [8D,A]
Climb the previous crack to the top of the pillar. Step right to a good crack. Climb this to lower offs.
The Acid House
This is the next major face along (eastwards) from The Foundry. There are 2 or 3 sets of chains to rap in from. Also a hot
crag in the summer.
CUCUMBER ZOO 19+ ** [?D,A]
Climb the corner. It's a bit sandy at the top. Harder for midgets.
NINE INCH NAILS 24 **** [9D,A]
Climb just right of the big roof and corner on the left of the wall. The route takes three overlaps en route to the top.
CUT ME SOME SLACK 23 **** [9D,A]
The line just to the right of NINE INCH NAILS.
LIKE NAILING JELLY TO THE CEILING 25 *** [10D,A]
This shares the first and last bolt with the previous route. Prepare for some extended reaches, especially if you don't bump
your head in most doorways.
HALFWAY HOUSE 19 *** [8D,A]
Rap down 5m right of the previous routes, some 15m from the big corner, to a belay above the roof.
FUNKY ACID TRIP 27 *** [9D,A]

Around the arete and corner - it starts about 5m from the corner.
ACID ON THE BRAIN 25 *** [11D,A]
Starting about 8m from the corner, climb past 5 bolts. After the roof move slightly left, and head for the top.
MISTER EXCELLENT 25 *** [9D,A]
The route probably is a grade easier for tall persons, and a grade harder for midgets.
THE CANNIBAL PROJECT 27+ *** [10D,A]
Climb the prominent arete left of VOL LIBRE.
DANCES WITH WOMBATS 24 *** [11D,A]
Start 5m below and just to the left of VOL LIBRE. This somewhat runout route shares the last bolt and chains of VOL
LIBRE. Please note this route is 28m long. Do not screw up your approach.
The Foundry
About 350m from the river, a rock platform is found slightly down from the escarpment edge. MELTDOWN climbs this, so
one can easily use the chains to rap down. There is a tricky scramble (13?) in the corner in the north side of this platform,
but this is bad enough going up. Otherwise walk along another 60m where shuts will be found to rap to VOL LIBRE ("Vol L")
and the extreme left edge of the ledge. This is 24m rap onto shuts so be careful and tie knots at the end of your ropes! Once
again a hot crag best climbed in winter or cooler summer days.
VOL LIBRE 21 **** [12D,A]
Awesome face climbing off the extreme left hand edge of the small subsidiary ledge. Belay off cold shuts.
PROJECT ** [?D,A]
Neat approach march to the headwall seam. Belay off shuts.
KEEP THE FAITH 25 *** [9D,A]
Starts up a steep corner at the left edge of the main ledge area. Mega pump with crux at last move.
MERCURY REV 25 **** [10D,A]
Wild pump up mega steep rock just to the right of KEEP THE FAITH's corner.
MR JIVE 17 ** [5D,A]
On the arete on the lower buttress.
DR HECKYL 18 * [5D,A]
Shares bolt 1 and chains with Mr Jive. Stay out of corner.
THE SURGE PROJECT 26+ [?D,A]
SMELT 24 *** [10D,A]
Great route with a "go-for-it" crux, about 10m left of the right hand edge of this wall.
ZOOZANIA 24 *** [12D,A]
Climbs the diagonal to the right of JUMP IN HE FIRE. Take 4 long slings for the roof.
PROJECT *** [?D]
Pull the roofs left of JUMP IN THE FIRE.
JUMP IN THE FIRE 22 ***** [10D,A]
The best 22 at the Restaurant - JO. Actually the second best - CC. A pump on monster holds. If there was such a grade as
22+, this would be first in the queue. Starts at the right hand edge of the main face; goes through the roof along the flake
clearly visible from the platform. Exposure moving off the ledge!
COAL MAN 20 ** [8D,A]
Starts about 7m south of the rock platform. Climb the slanting crack to the right and pull the roof to chains.
COKE STOKER 21 *** [6D,A]
The next 4 routes are on the east face of the Rock Platform. This route starts about 4m from the prominent dihedral. Take
your extender arm.
SMOULDER 18 *** [6D,A]
Fun route - also very reachy. 6m left of the corner.
SMELTDOWN 17 *** [6D,A]
Starts in a corner about 8m right of a large dihedral. Pull left after a few metres, then up SMOULDER to the chains. This
bypasses the obvious fierce reach move.
MELTDOWN 20 **** [6D,A]
Starts in SMELTDOWN'S corner. Move up then right towards the skyline arete; yard up on growing incuts.
ABROUTE 17 * [N]
Nowdays people usually rap in using the chains of SMOULDER or SMELTDOWN.
This route follows the abseil line up to the abseil tree (large stamvrug). Start up the right leaning crack and climb it via a
tricky layback move before stepping left to a resting point below the small overhang. Climb straight up through the overhang
to the tree.
OFFROUTE 13 * [N]
Start up ABROUTE and then climb the recess on the right.
REFERENDUM 17 * [N]

Abseil off the big stamvrug and then walk back 40m along the ledge towards The Restaurant. In a corner is a steep, right
leaning layback crack. To the left of the corner are two very steep ja cracks, either side of a huge block. Climb the corner
crack to the ledge - escape up and leftwards. This line joins the now bolted SMELTDOWN.
SHIFTING THE GOALPOSTS 17 ** [N]
Starts below the 15cm wide corner-crack to the right of the abseil tree. Climb the corner crack for 2m, traverse right across
the slab and then gain the ledge up to the right. Ascend the delightful wall above, trending diagonally right to the blocky
ledge.
First Ascent: Russ Dodding, Gordon Erens 1992
BEAUTY 20 [N]
We are uncertain as to the position of this climb.
1. Walk left from the abseil point along the ledge to where it ends below an open recess and to the right of a prominent
nose 8m up. This point is about 10m above the base of the cliff and 15m to the right of the prominent recess, marked
with bird-lime, cutting through the entire height of the cliff. Climb steeply up the corner to where it is possible to move
diagonally up left onto the massive blocks on the right-hand side of the nose. Step left and up onto the face above.
Move diagonally left onto a ledge. Belay on the left.
2. Make a strenuous take-off from the right hand side of the ledge and continue awkardly up the left slanting crack to where
it is possible to step left to a small ledge. Climb up and then move diagonally back right on good hand holds across an
exposed face to a line of flakes sloping up left. Climb to the top of this and continue up the steep face above to the top.
CORNEY 15 [N]
We are uncertain as to the position of this route.
The upper part of the climb follows the prominent, clean, right-facing corner about 20m left of the abseil point. Start just right
of the prominent overhangs 10m up and climb the crack leading into a left facing corner, which goes through a steep, glossy
face to a sloping ledge below the upper corner. Continue up the corner to the top.
He-Man Area
About 250m past the river, you will find U Bolts next to a block - above INCIDENTLY, I'M MACHO & 3 other routes (2 next to
the block - 2 more just over the edge.) Rap here and remember you will have to climb one of the routes to get back up
again.
COTAPAXL 19 * [N]
Climbs the wall after the little amphitheatre (He Man Area) as you walk away from the river. This route climbs a thin (#1
Rock) size crack up the wall. Traverse left at top to avoid vegetation.
NEW ROUTE 20+ *** [9D,A]
The leftmost route.
INCIDENTALLY I'M MACHO 19 **** [10D,A]
Climb the flaky break 5m right of the arete. Step left and climb straight up to the break in the vegetation. Probably the best
19 at the Restaurant.
ACTUALLY YOU'RE A WIMP 22 ***** [10D,A]
Start with 2 bolts as for INCIDENTLY I'M MACH. Fire straight up the wall to lower-offs. The best 22 at the Restaurant
because it's mine!? It's not a hard 22.
IT 22 *** [8D,A]
Clip 3 bolts on AYAW. Trend right into a break. Up to a roof and a bolted friend placement. Up to the loweroff. Retains some
of it former fear factor.
SUPER EGO 23 *** [9D,A]
The arete.
THE CAT IN THE HAT 27 ** [N,2B]
Approach by scrambling down the chimney behind the 2nd apartment-sized hanging block. Climb the overhanging rock in
the small theatre, past two bolts, exiting up the left hand crack.
SHADOW MAN 26 *** [8D,A]
On the Time Bomb Block. Climb the left hand edge to a single bolt. Another bolt is situated 5m to the right over the middle of
the face
TOO EARLY FOR THE SKY 18 ** [8D,A]
Rap down 20m right of SHADOW MAN to a bolt station. Enjoy the view. Climb the route remembering it was rap-bolted - the
bolts are not quite where you would want them.
The Gym
To get to most routes, turn right at the stream lookout at the bottom of the steep path that leads down from the campsite.
Follow this to the cascades where you can go down into the gully or cross over to get to the routes on the opposite side.
Routes usually shaded at least half the day.
TROUBLED WATERS 20 *** [6D,A]
This route is most easily reached by turning left at the stream lookout where the path first comes down from the campsite.
The path goes down to a plateau next to the river. Cross the river at the lip of the first waterfall. Please be careful - at least
one person has fallen off here already. The route is up the little face just on the other side. There are some good holds -

separated by hard moves.
LIKE A BOX OF CHOCOLATES 14 *** [9D,A]
This and the next 2 routes are situated on the east side of the little gorge, directly opposite the stream overlook. Cross the
river at the cascades upstream and go a few metres beyond the twin aloes to a clean area of rock with a couple of bolts in it.
Descend into the chasm opposite the path down by rapping off the chains, on a separate rope if you want it to stay dry.
Take a rucksack for the lead rope. IYWITSD. This route is protected by ringbolts, starting from 2, just above and
downstream of the following 2 routes. If you deviate a metre left at the crux, the grade goes down to 11/12 - still fun, though.
RUN FOREST RUN 12 **** [11D,A]
Start from the lower of the belay points on the right. Climb the spotlessly clean wall, exiting left at the top.
FOREST GUMP 15 *** [14D,A]
Climb the same spotlessly clean wall, but move rightwards through the small roof. Take all the previous precautions for a
happy ending to a great route.
NOTHING IN MODERATION 23 *** [6D,A]
Slab route at the water's edge. Take a toothbrush to clean after rain.
THE DARK SIDE 22 *** [5D,A]
Another slab route, 3-4m right.
JUST STICK IT 23 ** [5D,A]
Short power face problem, the leftmost in The Gym.
First Ascent: Ian Guest 1994
BOOGER BEING 25 *** [5D,A]
Sustained powerful route up the arete.
MONKS IN THE GYM 28 *** [4D,A]
Mega power problem just right of the arete. Stick clip the first bolt.
MONKEY MONKEY 19 *** [5D,A]
Route with power start, 3m right of the arete. Burly.
NUNS ON THE RUN 28 *** [6D,A]
Starts just right of MONKEY MONKEY. Thin start.
LITHIUM 24 *** [5D,A]
The original route here. About 2-3m left of the gully. Some suggest the grade is 23?
ANY OBJECTIONS? 19 ** [7D,A]
Follows a crack line just left of the gully corner on the right of the face.

Guide for Gaper Area
This area encompasses the easily accessible crags near the Restaurant. The Gaper Area name comes from the gapers that
watch the limbers from the top of the Gaper Buttress. There are 2 fences going down to the cliff edge - one directly East
from the dormitories and one diagonally (N-E) from the Restaurant. Specific directions relate to these.
The School
At the end of the diagonal fence, follow a path cutting back in front of the Restaurant southwards along the cliff top. After
50m it splits - the left path goes steeply down to the Restaurant Crag. Walking far enough along the base will bring you to
The School at the far end. Perhaps easier is to take the right fork along the top to the far end of the cliff (a direct path from
the campsite over the fence joins here). The path towards the Triple Tier Crag goes down steeply here to the right. At the
right moment (after 40-50m) duck down left to the base of a buttress.
THE GALLERY 20 *** [9D,A]
Steep start to a great face/corner. Stiff take-off. Could well be 21 for any height.
I GUEST NOT 25 *** [10D,A]
Steep powerful arete just right of THE GALLERY. I suspect there's a good reason Ian didn't open this one....!(Hard?)
FIRST ASSIGNMENT 16 *** [9D,A]
Classic at its grade. Vertical wall facing north.
The Restaurant Crag
To get to the left end from the campsite, go down to The School and follow the base for another 50-60m northwards.
Otherwise go down past the Restaurant, taking the steep left fork down (see Access to The School). All the crags face east.
PURPLE DROLL 21 ** [N]
We still need to verify the position of this route.
Climb the thin crack about 30m left of WORLDS APART and around the corner. Climb up to a tree and into a chimney.
ATTACK OF THE KILLER TREE 17 ** [?D,A]
The left most route to the left of the dead tree.
NOT THE NINE O'CLOCK NEWS 22 *** [?D,A]
Some interesting layback moves at the top. The route starts at the tree and moves rightwards to the chains.
MOSTLY HARMLESS 27 *** [8D,A]
Starts just right of a very steep smooth wall next to tree roots. The huge break up the wall is a few metres to the right.
ERASERHEAD 28 **** [10D,A]
Clip BLOCKBUSTER'S first bolt, then continue straight up as BLOCKBUSTER trends slightly right.
BLOCKBUSTER 25 *** [9D,A]
Starts just right of ERASERHEAD. Beware - bolted on rap.
THE PLAYPEN 26 *** [9D,A]
Just to the right of the chimney-with-teeth. Cruxy.
JAMBO 24/25 **** [13D,A]
2m right of PLAYPEN. Climbs a small arete to a roof 5m up. Then take the left break up to shuts. It is a great route.
FLAMBEAU 23 **** [12D,A]
Start up the 1st 4 bolts of JAMBO, then somewhat right to chains. Don't relax too much on the headwall...
LIMBO DIRECT 21 ** [12D,A]
Direct start past a bolt to lunge for branch.
LIMBO 20 ** [11D,A]
Climb the tree roots 7m right of JAMBO, walk left along the limb, then up the wall to chains. Great climbing - after the tree.
JIGABOO 24 **** [?D,A]
An excellent line.
WORLD'S APART 26 **** [?D,A]
A classic finger crack, in the middle of the Restaurant crag. Retrobolted by Peter - it is now helluva popular.
LOOKING FOR THE LOBSTER 21 ** [12D,A]
About 25m right of JAMBO & 8m right of the WORLD'S APART fingercrack. Start up the slab, through the tree on the left to
reach good climbing up the crack and face above.
RED HARVEST 19 *** [8D,A]
3m right of LOOKING FOR THE LOBSTER, starting on the lower Gretchen ledge. Can be climbed from the bottom as the
shuts are 24m up, go right around the tree.
JUNGLE UNCLE 20 * [N]
Climbs the shallow corner to he left of GRETCHEN GOES TO NEBRASKA.
GRETCHEN GOES TO NEBRASKA 21 *** [8D,A]
Starts from a subsidiary ledge 10m up at rap/belay bolts. Rap in from bolts at the top, or climb/scramble to the ledge from
the right.
AMAZON AUNT 17 ** [10D,A]
Bolted jamcrack just right of Gretchen, on the same ledge. Great climb to practice trad leading.
TO GRETCHEN ET AL 15 * [9D,A]
Climb 7 bolts just left of BONAR and step left to Gretchen's stance. You can go around the dihedral on the left at about
10/11 to gain the ledges. You can use this to go staight through onto the other climbs, but it is probably more fun to belay
and do 2 or 3 pitches from the large ledge.
OUT THROUGH THE IN DOOR 22/23 *** [13D,A]
Up TO GRETCHEN ET AL; at the top of the dihedral, climb the left hand crack on the face. Gary Lotter's IN THROUGH THE
OUT DOOR probably goes out onto the arete now occupied by BONAR.

IN THROUGH THE OUT DOOR 21 ** [N,R]
Climbs the line 7m right of GRETCHEN GOES TO NEBRASKA, on the face left of the arete. Dicey gear, mostly small wires.
BONAR 20 **** [14D,A]
Fine moves up the steep left arete on positive holds. Long and pumpy.
MJS 18 ** [11D,A]
A single hard move through the groove near the ground.
G.P. LE CHUCK 21 ** [9D,A]
Starts as for RED HERRING, then goes left after the first bolt. Somewhat contrived finishing crux.
RED HERRING 20 **** [9D,A]
A great climb up the middle of the face.
FARADAY'S CAGE 17 * [10D,A]
Starts a few meters right of RED HERRING, up the right side of the face. Bad bolts now fixed up by Darryl.
The Gaper Buttress
Can you miss it? A steep path to the base goes down just left facing the crag. There also is a path along the base from the
Easter/Gaper Face to the right.
ATOMIC AARDVARK 24 **** [12D,A]
Starts up a small corner on the left of the buttress after a short scramble from the base. The addition of 6 bolts to this route
has not changed the poor position of some of the originals but has greatly reduced the plummet potential. The route is just
over 25m. Tie a knot in the other end of the rope!
THE GIFT 27 *** [9D,A]
Up the centre of the buttress starting from the base. Also grew a few extra bolts, turning it into a true sport route. Use
ATOMIC AARDVARK'S lower-offs 25-26m back to earth.
THE FIX 28+ *** [9D,A]
Starts from a stance 8m up. Rap down to the first bolt. Shuts courtesy of Doc Roger. One of the harder 28's around and also
excrutiatingly technical.
ACHTUNG BABY 24 *** [8D,A]
Starts from the top of a pillar around the corner from the main Buttress. This can be accessed either by rapping or
scrambling up from the right. Thin move at the start.
ZOO STATION 23 *** [8D,A]
2m right of ACHTUNG BABY. Reach from top of the pillar top to clip the first bolt.
L'IL ARETE NUMBER 21 *** [6D,A]
About 8m right of the ZOO STATION Pillar. Approach from the right and scramble up to belay at the first bolt. Easy start -
puzzling finish. More difficult for the vertically challenged.
FIRST DIMENSION 21+ ** [6D,A]
Belay at LITTLE ARETE NUMBER'S first bolt. Climb the seam. Finish up right -following the crack to the death is harder.
Use LITTLE ARETE NUMBER'S lower-offs.
The Gaper Face
Follow the fence (next to the cement slab) to the edge near GAPER CAPER. Scramble/climb down through the tree on the
left (right as you look out) or go around the fence, north for 60m and down via The Easter Face.
POCKET ROCKET 25 *** [8D,A]
10m left of The Gaper Face proper. 8m right of FIRST DIMENSION.
LOUNGE LIZARD 21 ** [7D,A]
The leftmost route on the face near the corner. Reachy.
BRAIN DEAD 23 *** [6D,A]
Starts up a diagonal seam from a ledge about 4m from the corner on the left of the face.
GAPER CAPER 21 *** [7D,A]
Step off the right edge of the ledge - climb the face to shuts.
GROCKEL MANIA 22 ** [7D,A]
Start 2m right of the ledge.
GAPER TRAIL 20 ** [N,2B]
Climb up as for TO GAPE OR NOT TO BE, then break up left past two bolts and a #3.5 friend placement.
TO GAPE OR NOT TO BE 20 ** [N,2B,R]
Climb the seam on the right (wires), then up the wall above past two bolts.
DECK CHAIR 25 ** [7D,A]
Very thin moves up the blank slab 10m right of GROCKEL MANIA. Gets easy after a few moves.
GAPER GO-GO 11 [N]
Start below the triangular corner. Trend slighlty left towards the top.
The Easter Face
From the fence at the top of the Gaper Face, walk northwards for 60m and down the steep hill to the right. The Easter Face
is 8-10m high next to a large boulder. It is 10m right of Deck Chair.
PASSION PLAY 23 ** [5D,A]

Start on the left almost under the tree. Tricky move left near the top.
CROWN OF THORNS 24 *** [6D,A]
Start as for PASSION PLAY. Continue up the diagonal line across the face to the top.
LAST STATION 22 ** [5D,A]
Straight up the right hand side of the face.
The Monsoon Wall
This is the outcrop visible on the left extremity of the "main land" when looking back from The Island. At 250m from the
dormitory fence you should find a very large (25-30m long) detached block/island on the edge of the escarpment. Step onto
it and walk across. Peer over the edge to locate 2 sets of chains (TROPICAL FRONT, PSYCHEDELIC SANDWITCH) and
rap. A very bushy approach is possible by going down a grass ramp 150m from the fence at a large bush on your right. It is
also possible to downscramble the south edge of the block, starting in the trench after 240m.
ANDY'S ROUTE 19 ** [8D,A]
Go 15m left from the rap-down, past a large roof low down. This route goes up a dark blunt arete to chains
RACHEL'S PROJECT [B]
Chains about 10m left of TROPICAL FRONT. Presumably it will break through between the stepped roofs.
PSYCHEDELIC SANDWICH 23 ** [7D,A]
Starts 2m left of TROPICAL FRONT. You have to move a bit right after reaching through the overlap to experience the crux
- escaping left is about 20.
TROPICAL FRONT 20 ** [7D,A]
Up the face left of obvious corner. Contrived 23 version : Move off small crimper 1m left of big flat holds and layback crack
used for the 20.
HAMMER TIME 19 ** [6D,A]
Starts up the corner just right of TROPICAL FRONT. Pull through roof on the left, then up the face right of the corner on
small holds.
GUNG HO 24 ** [7D,A]
Starts 1m left of the corner crack/ramp 8m to the right. Uses thin crack and arete to reach the crux overlap.
THE EGO HAS LANDED 17 ** [7D,A]
Starts up a corner crack next to a ramp 8m right of the main corner.
GLASS AND A HALF 16 ** [7D,A]
Breaks right onto the slab from the corner crack on THE EGO HAS LANDED just before the crux layback.
WILD HEARTED SUN 24 *** [6D,A]
Just around the arete, about 15m right from the corner next to TROPICAL FRONT.
ANGEL DUST 22 **** [6D,A]
Up the hard-looking right-slanting crack 8m right of WILD HEARTED SUN.
RAINBOW CHILDREN 24 **** [6D,A]
The line up overlaps on the corner 3m right of ANGEL DUST.
Guide for The Island
An isolated island of rock northward from the campsite, it sports many routes in an excellent setting. Follow the path as for
Flying is Fun from the campsite, past the pool, through the fence. The path forks right, take this and walk to a cairn. Walk down
through the gulley and back up to the Island. The Gulley, Boulevard and Beach are all on the road-side with Never-Never land
on the left (town side).
The Gulley
From the top of the Island walk northwards (towards the road) for 50m through various stone kraals across the Island to
overlook the main road far below. You should only have to walk 20-40m to your right to find an obvious gully leading steeply
down to the left. The routes on the outside of the gulley can be found in The Boulevard area. This area is mostly shaded and
makes for good year-round climbing. There are some good face routes to be found here.
AMAZONIAN WAR DANCE 21 *** [6D,A]
Climbs the face and arete at the end of the first wall on the right going down the gully (opposite LJS) Hard to onsight.
LONG JOHN SILVER 20 *** [9D,A]
Face to a small roof about 15m down the gully on the left.
ROCK ISLAND 20 *** [8D,A]
The seam just right of LJS. Opened on natural gear in the dark ages. Unintentionally retrobolted and renamed Fantasia.
Thanks, Ian, good job!
FACE THE MUSIC 21 *** [9D,A]
The (very) thin face just right of Rock Island. Was the hardest 20 around - still one of the harder 21's about!
RETURN TO THE WOLGAN VALLEY 18 **** [11D,A]
The smooth-looking slab 15m down from Rock Island. Reminded me of a crag in the Blue Mountains near Sydney. Not difficult
for the grade.
ALLEGRO NON TROPPO 19 **** [13D,A]

5m right of RTTWV. This slab is a thin start.
PENDING INVESTIGATION 20 ** [8D,A]
Situated on the road side of the block in front of ANT. Start just left of an offwidth, first rightish, then diagonally up to easier
ground left of the boltline.
The Boulevard
From The Gulley walk down to the last of the routes here and do a u-turn to the road-side cliff (outside of The Gulley). Follow a
path for a few metres and look out for ring bolts. This area is North facing and gets very hot in summer but has a few good
routes.
SURF'S UP 19 **** [11D,A]
The left route. A wide variety of unusual moves.
BILLABONG 21 **** [11D,A]
Starts 5m right of SU, on a small arete. Pull it.
RIPCURL 23 **** [9D,A]
Start in the corner 3m right of Billabong. Great technical climbing, getting steadily trickier.
COUNTRY FEELING 17 *** [8D,A]
4m right of Rip Curl's corner is a 3-4 cm crack. Climb it to the face above.
QUICKSILVER 21 ** [7D,A]
6-7 metres right of Rip Curl is another boltline near a block. Climb the face. If you use the block to the right, the route can be
18/19. Ends near the ledge on the right.
NEW ROUTE 21 ** [8D,A]
The rightmost route, just left of the obvious recess. 3m from the righthand edge of the buttress. Whoose route is it ?
The Beach
Go down the Gully. After the large block on your right, you have reached the Beach! Hot temperatures in summer make this
area very hot. Some good routes that have nice views doen to the river & road far below.
GERT'S PROJECT 22R ** [8D,A]
About 10m down from Allegro Non Troppo. Was Gert's project, but...
First Ascent: The masses 1993 BB: Gert Forster
GLOIN 19 *** [9D,A]
Climbs up to the prominent roof crack after the gully.
RAIN MAN 21R *** [9D,1A]
Start 5m right of Gert's 19. Excellent face climbing. Run out in parts. Most of this Swiss lad's routes seem to follow the bad
European tradition, with single lower-off points.
MRS DOUBTFIRE 22R *** [8D,1A]
Crack line on the right of Rain Man. A touch runout on the crux -take a Friend 1.5 if you're worried. Easy if you are comfortable
at this grade.
OLD SPICE 25 **** [9D,A]
5m right of Doubtfire. This and the next few routes may be hard at their grades.
SHRINE OF THE SEA MONKEYS 25 **** [9D,A]
4m right of Old Spice.
CASTAWAY 24 **** [9D,A]
Starts up the arete low down. Very long reach to bolt through roof.
CLOCKWORK MONKEY 25 *** [8D,A]
Starts off the platform halfway up the wall 15m right of Castaway.
COMEDY WALTZ 23 *** [8D,A]
Starts 5m right of Clockwork Monkey at the same level.
FRIDAY 23 ** [6D,A]
Climb the left of the pillar, 25m beyond Castaway. Keep right of the third bolt. Fairly challenging at 23! About 19 if you stray far
to the left.
SPRING TIDE 23 *** [9D,A]
Up the middle of the pillar. No shortage of bolts.
BEACH COCKTAIL 16 *** [6D,A]
Climb the right hand edge of the pillar.
AFRICA TRIP 23R *** [9D,1A]
Starts about 10m right of the pillar, on the main wall. Very lead out with only a single top anchor. A good route, anyone please
add another top anchor.

DASSIEBURGER 22R *** [10D,1A]
5m right of Africa Trip, up the blunt arete. Take care on this badly bolted route with only 1 top anchor.
PROJECT [B]
New line of bolts up the steep buttress right of Dassieburger. Was this ever completed?
Never Never Land
Once on the Island walk left to the North-West end, where you will find a maze of corridors below you. Find the gully leading
down on the left (there are several rap points along the front/north face). To get to Operasie Bullie Bief, walk down past the
Shiver Me Timbers ledge on your right, past the corridor leading under a huge suspended boulder up to the Wizard and other
aretes, right around the front of the buttress, past a narrow corridor (also up to Wizard). Where another wide corridor goes
steeply back up into the maze, THFLG is the arete on your right, OBB is the crack up the wall in front and right of you. If
approaching from the Beach, walk 50m along the path from the Spring Tide Pillar OBB is up the wide corridor, through the wall
on your left. This area is mostly shaded all day, scramble around with care in this area.
OPERASIE BULLIE BIEF 23 *** [8D,A]
Shocking-looking off-width; awesome when laybacked.
THANK HEAVEN FOR LITTLE GIRLS 23 *** [5D]
The steep left-leaning arete opposite the offwidth (same level). Climb past the last resting place of the old route DAVE. Lower
off the top bolt and scramble around to get the draw. Route needs top anchors.
SLICK AND SHINE 21 ** [5D,A]
Offwidth left of FOREVER YOUNG.
PROJECT 25+ [1B]
The scoop just right of S&S.
FOREVER YOUNG 21 *** [8D,A]
The short north-facing wall 10m left of Wizards' arete. Careful not to stand on the smak bonsai growing on the wall slightly to
the right!
OVERBOARD 20 [N]
Right leaning diagonal break (1 rock #1). A one move 20.
WIZARDS 24 *** [6D,A]
The arete with a large flattish boulder leaning against it. Lower off hangers on top. It is recommended to pre-clip the first bolt, for
climber & belayers sake. Take care some of the bolts are a bit loose, especially the first one.
GUY'S ROUTE 28 ** [7D,A]
The steep and thin slab just right of Wizards' arete. Use Wizard's lower off hangers.
SKIRTING THE ISSUE 17 *** [6D,A]
Something different. Straddle the Wizards and Satin Spider aretes till it gets too wide, clipping Satin Spider's bolts to that loweroff.
Definitely a size or flexibilty-dependent grade.
DANCE OF THE SATIN SPIDER 22 *** [6D,A]
The arete opposite Wizards. The 2nd clip has great character. Currently has bolt hangers at the top; draws can be retrieved by
scramble or lowering off the Ubolts across the chasm to the south. A challenging and thin 22.
FAIRY FINGERS 25 *** [5D,A]
This route is opposite Wizards with U-bolts.
KEELHAUL THE RAT 17 [N,2B]
Zigzags up the ever narrowing chimney.
First Ascent: Mike Cartwright, L Waldman 1992
SHIVER ME TIMBERS 18 *** [7D,A]
Starts off the lefthand edge of a wide ledge (facing west) up the blunt arete about 20m right of Wizards. Bolt hangers on top.
Exposed belay.
BLUNT BLADE 22 ** [6D,A]
The bolted face right of the arete and 2-3 m left of the 2 prominent cracks (By Hook Or By Crook, Tinkerbell). Look high past the
the last bolt for lower off hangers.
NO CRACK CROOKING 21 * [5D,A]
Squeezed between Blunt Blade and BHOBC's crack. Uses Blunt Blade's lower off hangers. Probably harder than 21 if you don't
use the crack.
BY HOOK OR BY CROOK 18 **** [2D,A]
The crack in the middle of the west face.
TINKERBELL 13 *** [N]
The crack towards the right of the west face
PIXIE DUST 14 *** [N]
Immediately right, around the corner from TINKERBELL. Climb grey rippled face.
K1 16 * [N,R]
Starts 20m down the slope from SHIVER ME TIMBERS. Climb up just right of the arete to the ledge.

K2 17 * [N]
Starts in the middle of the face just right of K1 (facing road).
K4 20 ** [N]
From the ledge, climb near the right arete to reach the base of the short crack.
Guide for Sport Valley
Sport Valley refers to the shallow kloof to your left as you enter the Resort. Within a radius of about 200m are encompassed
about 70 true sport routes, grades 8-27 (currently). In a 400-500m radius from The Other Side, including the Beach and some of
the Gaper Faces, are nearly 150 routes. General Access : You can reach The Other Side and the Flying is Fun Crag by going
through the fence at the dormitory and walking towards Boven (and The Beach). To reach The Coven, The Pasture or Flying is
Fun/Other Side Crags, go down past cairns starting behind the chalets near the trampolines to a fence and cairn at the valley
rim. Take care as a few muggings have occured here.
The Pasture
Follow cairns and fence from a break between the small and larger chalets. There will be an old trampoline & putt-putt course
on your right when you start on the path. Follow the path into the valley and directly to the crag. Please treat the fence with
care. Go around it at the face if possible rather than climbing through it. The little crag is 7-12m high and faces east. It enjoys
the morning sun.
. ................................ ..............
THE CRACK 14 ** [5D,A]
The first route is at the left of the face just south of the fence. Using the bolts on the face to the right, climb the crack and finish
left up the pillar to the long chains.
SMOKING GRASS 17 ** [5D,A]
Climb the face just right of THE CRACK. A short traverse to the right may be needed halfway up the route.
First Ascent: Rupert Leigh 1994 BB: Gunther Migeotte
MILKMAN 18 * [5D,A]
Climb the face just left of the arete.
GAS 18 ** [4D,A]
Stay on the arete through overlap.
FLUFFY AND MOO COW 17 * [5D,A]
Climb face between arete and tree
KHANYISILE 20 ** [5D,A]
Thin balancy moves up the steep wall partway up the gully.
COWLICK 19 *** [6D,A]
Uses unusual holds up the pockmarked line left of the arete.
COWABUNGA 22 *** [6D,A]
Line of bolts through roof. Exit up crack.
COWBOYS 20 ** [6D,A]
Starts left of, and shares 2 bolts on STARGRAZER.
STARGRAZER 22 *** [6D,A]
Starts in crack with chockstone. Easy climbing to difficult 3rd clip. Pull the bulge - easier if you keep left.
GYPPO-GUTS 21 *** [6D,A]
Starts at a hollow-topped stone. Follow crack to wide roof crack, using some cunning. Pull up to chains on the right.
IMODIUM 22 *** [6D,A]
Climb 3 bolts on GYPPO-GUTS; traverse right; pull bulge.
ABATTOIR 22 *** [5D,A]
Extended boulder problem on the far right of the crag.
The Coven
The crag is situated on property belonging to Mr Ken Smith. Like all landowners he has a healthy concern as to how his land is
used/abused. Please respect his land. Several approaches to the area from the campsite exist. Probably the quickest is to go
down left past the old trampolines towards The Pasture. To access the base, walk down the bottom of the Valley for 150 m to a
cairn and turn left upwards towards the obvious descent gully. Follow the base around north. You can also scramble to the rim
just past the Pasture and walk along the top. The Coven is also accessible from Flying is Fun with a huge diagonal path
starting down about 20m upstream. Other more direct paths become overgrown in summer. Take care as a few muggings have
occured here. East facing with morning sun. Height varies from 20-30 m. Some of the best 20/21's at the Restaurant are found
here.
. ................................ ..............
MAMPOER 18 *** [11D,A]
Walk leftwards along base of cliff from PRINCE OF DARKNESS to the end of the crag. Climbs the buttress just before the gully.
PRINCE OF DARKNESS 23 *** [9D,A]
On the smooth brown wall at the left of the crag. At Bolt#2 up a seam on the right till this becomes too hard. Back to the middle
(bolt#3 hard to clip) then up using the crack on the left. Maybe a bit easier if you're tall.
THE DARK PRINCE 24 *** [9D,A]
Climb as for PRINCE OF DARKNESS, but slightly left between bolts 2 & 3.
QUEEN OF THE NIGHT 24+ *** [9D,A]

The same as PRINCE OF DARNESS, but deviate neither to right nor left.
LUCIFER GOES TO THE GUNKS 21 **** [12D,A]
10m right of the first four routes. Pull the roof on wild holds!
MERCI MY BROTHER 26 [9D,A]
666 20 ** [12D,A]
Takes the thin crackline a few meters left of the Coven cave, past some well jammed blocks through the overlap.
EAT YOUR HEART OUT 25 *** [11D,A]
5 bolts as for 666. Step right and break through the overlap near the right hand end (2-3m left of the BLACK MAGIC seam).
Reachy & snatchy.
BLACK MAGIC 21 **** [13D,A]
5 bolts up 666, rail 4-5m right to a beautiful seam through the headwall above the cave. Take 2-3 long draws. It is quite possible
to clean the route on a 50m rope. " The best I've done at Boven" - Mike Behr. Do it!
OPEN PROJECT 29+ [1D,A]
This is a futuristic roof! It may one day start some metres right of where the altar used to be.
TRIED TO GO TO HEAVEN... 21 **** [16D,A]
A retro-bolted trad adventure. The objective was the headwall groove ... but he went the other way!
1. 17 (6D,A) Climb the jamcrack just right of the cave to a stance.
2. 20 (7D,A) Rail leftwards past the peapod to a stance.
3. 21 (6D,A) Climb the BLACK MAGIC seam to the summit.
Sport Challenge - climb the 1st 2 pitches as one and lower.
Rad Challenge - climb all the pitches as 1 and lower! A 50m rope still puts you back on the ground.
THE PIT 18 *** [6D,A]
The first pitch of TRIED TO GO TO HEAVEN. Climb the crack to lower-offs at a ledge. Don't blow the 3rd clip.
DOM PEDRO 27 [5B,N]
Clip first bolt of THE PIT and move left, blast through the roof to the right of the BLACK MAGIC seam.
Note: No chains on this route.
BABIES' BLOOD GIVES ME GAS 18 **** [14D,A]
Another trad thing - remember when we used to climb corners? Slip on your Stealthy stemming shoes. Classic stuff. Option of 2
lower-offs.
SCREAMING DEMONS 24 **** [10D,A]
The blunt arete just right of the BABIES' BLOOD corner.
SHOUT AT THE DEVIL 21 ***** [12D,A]
Great moves on the face 6m right of the BABIES BLOOD GIVES ME GAS corner.
HELTER SKELTER 23 *** [12D,A]
Starts 8m right of the BABIES BLOOF GIVES ME GAS corner. It gets thin.
HOWLING IN HELL 21 *** [12D,A]
The left-facing corner and roof crack. More trad stuff.
HOWLING IN HADES 23 ** [13D,A]
The right hand variation after the roof. Fingery.
MAD COW 23 ** [9D,A]
Very height dependent, ranging from 21 - 25.
DEVIL'S CONCUBINE 16 *** [7D,A]
Starts 5m right of the HOWLING IN HADES corner. Good warm up route.
DEVIL'S DISCIPLE 19 ** [9D,A]
Starts just right of DEVIL'S CONCUBINE up a vague corner. Pull the overlap and continue up the slab above to chains.
ROUTE OF ALL EVIL 10 ** [12D,A]
This climbs the root-infested gully 10m to the right of DEVIL'S DISCIPLE. Shares chains with DEVIL'S DISCIPLE.
GOD OF SMALL THINGS 33 [B,A]
Just left of DEVIL IN A CAULDRON.
First Ascent: May 2004 Jens Richter
DEVIL IN A CAULDRON 27 **** [10D,A]
Takes the right hand edge of this eye-catching face.
The Ivory Towers
About 25m beyond the rightmost side of The Coven (when facing it) there is an easy scramble up. To the right and down from
this are 3 Towers, the Southern 2 are joined. Take care as a quite a few muggings have occured here.
BOLTS FROM HELL 18R ** [10D,A]
About 30m right from the scramble down, about 2m left of the arete on the middle tower. Runout at the crux.
SALEM 19 *** [8D,A]
Starts in the corner right of the arete. After clipping the 2nd bolt, rail left just around the corner. Up to lower-offs.
POSSESSED 19 *** [6D,A]
Starts 2m right of arete/corner. Climb to lower-offs.
BAD OMEN 19 ** [5D,A]
Climbs 1-2m right of the last route to the same lower-offs.
HOT STUFF 18 *** [9D,A]
Climb the East face of the North Tower. Reachy at 4th bolt.
EXORCIST 19 **** [9D,A]
Climbs the fine line on the North face of the North Tower.
The Other Side
Walk along the rim from the fence, (please be careful not to damage the fence) continue for about 250m just past the Flying is
Fun crag to a short gully. Walking another 40m along the rim will bring you to shuts at the top of MIXER MINCER SHREDDER

LIQUIDIZER. Go down the gully and along right for 40-50m to the base. Alternatively from the Ex-Dormitory (now a concrete
slab) head toward the Boven town. After 200m at the 2nd cairn on the main path, go right to a gully roughly in line with the town.
The first routes are on the left of this gully. MIXER MINCER SHREDDER LIQUIDIZER is 60m further along the base to the
west.
SPOOKS IN THE CLOSET 20 *** [7D,A]
Goes up the face left of the pillar in the descent gully.
URIEL'S MACHINE 13 *** [B,A]
A man-size crack between SPOOKS IN THE CLOSET and TOILET BRUSH. Follows a crack past a large chockstone which is
two-thirds up a chimney. Directly beneath the chockstone (on the left-hand wall of the chimney) is a zig-zag crack. Layback up
this crack to the chockstone, passing it on the right-hand side. Above the chockstone continue straight up or veer left. Using the
crack to chimney is easier and goes at about 11. This route shares anchors with TOILET BRUSH and can be used to abseil in
from.
First Ascent: Etienne van der Poel & Hildegard Steinmann Jul 2001 (Opened on trad)
TOILET BRUSH 11 ** [B,A]
Two meters to the right of and on the same face of the chimney as URIEL'S MACHINE. Starts directly beneath a small
overhang five meters up. Climb the chimney and aim for the clump of grass visible against the skyline directly above. Excellent
chimney climbing - could be challenging for tall people. Shares anchors with URIEL'S MACHINE, can be used to abseil in from
the top.
Note: A toilet brush was used to clean both URIEL'S MACHINE and TOILET BRUSH and its name is no reflection on how one
climbs the route.
YUDUVUDU 24 **** [8D,A]
Technical moves up the pillar in the descent gully. A very substantial 24.
WEIGH-LESS CRACK 12 *** [B,A]
On the northern side of the pinnacle is a large crack a thin person will fit into. Follow this crack to the top. As a variation, the
route can be climbed outside the crack.
FREQUENT FLYER 18 *** [B,A]
6m right of WEIGH-LESS CRACK is a line going through a bulge in the face. The crux is getting past the bulge.
VOYAGER 14 *** [B,A]
3m right of FREQUENT FLYER on the same face.
BLOKKIES JOUBERT 17 *** [B,A]
The western side of the pinnacle (facing town) has a series of blocky ledges.
TEA FOR TWO 16 *** [B,A]
A face to the right and around the corner from BLOKKIES JOUBERT. The route follows a series of horizontal and vertical
cracks.
2ND ANNIVERSARY 15 ** [B,A]
2m right of TEA FOR TWO. Starts at and then keeps left of a widening crack.
I DRINK THEREFORE I AM 15 ** [8D,A]
Start as for 2ND ANNIVERSARY but climb the streep column to the right, finishing just left of the overhang.
NEARLY HEADLESS NICK 17 *** [10D,A]
Climb the blank face 10m right of 2ND ANNIVERSARY.
ANY OTHER F@CKERS 15 **** [N]
Climbs the obvious crack system 5m to the right of NEARLY HEADLESS NICK. Start 5m lower and to the right of NHN. "A good
trad line that should remain unbolted" - Stephen
CURSE OF THE ARMADILLO 14 ** [N]
About 40m left of the MIXER MINCER SHREDDER LIQUIDIZER wall, and around the corner. Climb the crack up the slab and
exit left.
OF HERBS AND STEWED RABBIT 22 ** [N,2B]
Locate the MIXER MINCER SHREDDER LIQUIDIZER slab (widish crack to the right). This goes up the arete to the left, starting
in a large crack left of the arete. It needs a lot of gear, has some hollow rock and is included in this guide mainly because of the
name.
MIXER MINCER SHREDDER LIQUIDIZER 27 *** [8D,A]
The bolt line up a prominent steep slab with yellow lichen to shuts. Take your fingers with the thick skin.
SHORT CUT TO MUSHROOMS 20 ** [N]
Climb the crack right of MIXER MINCER SHREDDER LIQUIDIZER.
Flying is Fun
The most popular beginner crag at The Restaurant. It has many shorter and easier routes and the access is easy. From the
campsite walk past the big pool, you will pass a concrete helipad and a fence. Go through the fence and follow this path, it splits
later on, don't go right as this goes to the Island. The path leads to the top of the cliff, head right for about 20m and you will get
to a scramble taking you to the right-most side of the cliff (when facing it). You can also reach this area via the Pasture, or past
the trampolines. The Coven's big brown buttress is directly across the valley, and there are huge blocks in the bush below. The
routes are 10-15m long.
. ................................ ..............
VISIONS OF COSMIC DOOM 9 **** [7D,A]
The arete at the bottom of the access gully. A classic!
TEXAS CHAINSAW MASSACRE 12 *** [8D,A]
Takes in the hand crack 4m right of the VISIONS OF COSMIC DOOM. Uses the lower offs to the left or right.
MRI 11 ** [8D,A]
The wide crack just right of TEXAS CHAINSAW MASSACRE.
FLY FOR LIFE 13 ** [7D,A]
The recess just right. Shares 3 bolts with MRI. Can be awkward going right past the roof without technique. Trend back left to
lower-off.

DWARF TOSSING 22 ** [7D,A]
The slab just right of the arete. Head for the arete after the 4th bolt. Going straight up the face is trickier.
RIP 21 **** [8D,A]
The prominent crackline, using the tree or traversing in under the roof to start.
REST IN PEACE DIRECT 23 **** [8D,A]
Direct start is 22/23 - height dependent.
MIDNIGHT MISSION 18 **** [9D,A]
The seam 2m right of RIP, using anything. Climb only the seam for a somewhat more pointed exercise. Great climbing
whichever!
FLOATING ON THE STORM 16 ** [9D,A]
Crackline just right of MIDNIGHT MIOSSION. Fine line but there is a great temptation to step right onto THERMAL'S block at
the crux. Probably 18 if you're short.
THERMAL 11 *** [9D,A]
The easiest break in this area. Up the corner to a recess, using 5 bolts on FLOATING ON THE STORM. Step back left to
FLOATING ON THE STORM lower-offs after surmounting the block.
BLOOD IN THE DUST 13 ** [9D,A]
Starts in the recess just right of THERMAL/FLOATING ON THE STORM. Pull through to a ledge. Continue up the recess and
arete above. Go out right to STONE COLD'S finish.
STONE COLD 15 ** [9D,A]
Takes the slanting crack just right of BLOOD IN THE DUST. Continue up the arete and out right to the loweroffs at the high
point.
GREATEST DOCTOR IN THE UNIVERSE 21 *** [9D,A]
Start up FROZEN FLESH'S crack. Move up left to climb the face just right of the arete. Finish at the same lower-offs as STONE
COLD.
FROZEN FLESH 24 **** [8D,A]
Follows the crackline right of the arete into a shallow corner. Climb the face straight above. May be 23 if you're tall enough
1.85m+).
DOA 19 *** [8D,A]
The fierce-looking handcrack. Harder for midgets (21?).
BLOOD TRANSFUSION 20 *** [9D,A]
Start up DYING TO FLY. Move 2m left at half height to a vague seam. Climb this.
DYING TO FLY 20 *** [8D,A]
The first right leaning crack off the ledge, about 6m right of DOA. A bouldery move to gain the slab.
THREE BLIND MICE 20 *** [8D,A]
The other right leaning crack - more technical but easier than DYING TO FLY. Step right from the ledge - the first 5m are offbalance.
Probably 19 if you work out the moves quickly.
SEE HOW THEY RUN 21 *** [9D,A]
This is the direct start to THREE BLIND MICE, follow the crack from ground level.
THE CARVING KNIFE 20 *** [9D,A]
From the base of the THREE BLIND MICE crack, move diagonally right on the face to the 3rd bolt. Climb straight up, joining
THREE BLIND MICE to the top.
HIGH NOON 21 **** [7D,A]
4m right of the ledge edge. A bit reachy. There is a lot of climbing around the 4th bolt.
BOLTED BONES 17 **** [6D,A]
The beautiful fingercrack 4m left of the corner. Start off a little ledge.
RECOVERY ROOM 14 *** [7D,A]
The jamcrack/layback in the corner. Finishes up the face on the left wall.
BRIDGET GOES TO CASUALTY 15 ** [5D,A]
The short crack 3m right of RECOVERY ROOM'S corner.
FLY BY DAY 13 * [6D,A]
On face holds 1m left of FLY BY NIGHT; uses same recess in the upper reaches, and the same bolts throughout.
FLY BY NIGHT 14 * [6D,A]
Face move at left hand bolt line. Climb recess above.
BRIDGET FLIES AGAIN 13 * [6D,A]
Face move 2m right of FLY BY NIGHT; no brain; avoids the corner. Uses BRIDGET CLIMBS AGAIN'S bolts.
BRIDGET CLIMBS AGAIN 8 * [6D,A]
Using the corner where needed and the same bolts.
BOLDER PROBLEM 22 *** [5D,A]
The steep face on the boulder behind BRIDGET CLIMBS AGAIN. Sandbagged and opened at 18!
First Ascent: Mike Cartwright 1992 BB: Clive Curson
Guide for The Gorge Area
The area has some stunning views of a lush gorge, with the Waterval Boven waterfall and superb rock. This was where the
classic photograph of SORCERY with the waterfall in the background was taken. Many people opened routes here a few years
ago but it does not see much traffic now. There is still plenty of potential for development on the kilometres of cliff. Watch out for
theft and muggings in this whole area. Enquire with Roc n Rope for safe transport to and from the crags.
ZAZM Tunnel Entrance

East facing with morning sun, this crag is about 20m high. Park at the east end of the N4 tunnel, walk back along the old road to
the entrance of the ZAZM tunnel.
TREE LOVE 17 *** [N]
15m left of the tunnel. Climb the tangle of overhanging roots to a stance. Up corner for 2m then right and up the cracks, exit on
slab to right.
TETROGRAD RAT AND THE YEOVILLE DIVA 22 *** [N]
Climb the tangle of overhanging roots to a stance 5m right of TREE LOVE's rock start. Climb the corner through a roof, 3m right
of the prow. Exits up left groove/ chimney.
The Junkyard
The crags opposite The Last Crag of The Century, they are effectively on the outside of the old ZAZM tunnel. To get there, park
on the east side of the new Tunnel. There is usually a 'guard' there who will watch your car. Walk through the old Tunnel (with a
torch), then turn right and walk back along the base for 200m. You can also from the old road take the tourist path on the
outside of the tunnel along the crag. There is potential for several routes here still.
JUST BEFORE BREAKFAST 18 ** [N]
On the furthermost lefthand side of the crag, right by a small gully there is an obvious crack.
EASTSOLOING 15 [N]
Climb the arete on the opposite side of the pinnacle to COMING OF PRIDE.
SOUTH CORNER 15 [N]
Climb the recess of the right of the pillar on the river side of the pinnacle.
STYLING 17 ** [N]
Climbs the arete left of COMING oF PRIDE.
COMING OF PRIDE 17 * [N]
Climbs the crack up the front of the free-standing pinnacle. (The waterfall lurks behind you while climbing.)
BOA RODEO 31 [N]
OUT OF GERMANY 23 ** [4D,N]
The line and the view of the falls are stunning. The climbing doesn't quite match this. You need friends #.5, #2.5 and some
lower-offs.
LITTLE BITCH 24 * [B,N]
Climbs the wall around to the right of OUT OF GERMANY.
NO NAME 13 [N]
1. 11 Climb tree for 5m, step over to face.
2. 13 Move through overlap up from ledge.
Acra Wall
Indeed an absolutely awesome area! Pictures of the wall have appeared in most of the best climbing mags in the world, as well
as on posters and bookcovers. It certainly merits more attention. The wall faces approximately south, so it gets no sun in winter
and a few hours on summer mornings. It is about 30m high but most routes start on a ledge 5m up. Most routes will need
brushing unless they have been recently climbed. The rock quality, length of routes and views make it the most stunning wall at
The Restaurant. Only God No! Wall is as stunning, but that does not have the views. To get there we recommend driving back
towards the main road to Nelspruit (N4) from Boven. Turn right onto this road, towards Nelspruit. Drive a few kilometres until
you pass through a tunnel, park directly on your left as you get through the tunnel. There is usuall a 'guard' here to watch your
car. Walk through the old Zazm tunnel (with a torch) back along the N4. Turn right down a slope to cross the river before it
becomes the waterfall. A big jump may be required here or to avoid this jump walk over the bridge first and then back down the
other side. Walk on past a parking spot & track leading to it. This is the proper parking but local 'shoppers' like cars & their
contents. To get to this parking by car drive towards Boven from the campsite. At the stop street continue down towards the
station, and take a right into First Avenue. Go straight at a nominal stopsign and left at a T-junction just over 1km from the
station. After 600-700m take a left down a rough dirt track across a low level bridge, keeping right at a fork. The track goes
under the N4 bridge on the Elands river bank and ends at a turning circle. To get down to the ACRA wall, rap 25-30m down
from chains in a slot at the top to swing into a ledge 5m above the base. The first 2 routes start at the base (30-35m down). To
exit from the ledge other than by climbing, rap down another 25m to the ground, hike right for 60m and scramble up the steep
rocky gully to the top (WB graffiti wall on right). Packs & gear left on top also make the 'shoppers' happy, (rather clip your packs
on a bolt or two down a climb). The inconvenience of the 'shoppers' is worth it considering the stunning wall of rock.
URISK THE RUSTIC BROWNIE 22+ [11D,A]
The first line to the left of the waterfall when facing downstream. Rap down to anchors and climb back out.
SORCERY 25R **** [N,R]
Awesome line - famous for the photo opportunity with the waterfall in the background. Starting just left of the arete, climb it.
Take care, protection is not abundant!
SATAN'S TEMPLE 29 ***** [14D,A]
Starts just right of the arete at ground level. The route may need brushing unless it has been recently climbed. But this is an
awesome climb in an awesome place.
UNLIMITED POWER 27 ***** [10D,A]
Starts from the chains on the left of the ledge. You need a 60m rope to reach this comfortably from the top chains; with a 50m it
can be reached from the lower set of chains 5m down. Climb steeply up left to the headwall. Continue up a break to chains.
SCREAMING BLUE MESSIAH 26 **** [N]
Trad line - no bolts. From the chains at the left edge of the ledge, head slightly right into the obvious break. Keep going.
SOMETHING ESOTERIC 24 **** [N,3B,A]
The next crack right of SCREAMING BLUE MESSIAH, about 4m right of the first corner. Zap up to chains. It is possible to
access these by scrambling (10-11?) in from the top, but watch it...
JITTERBUG PERFUME 25 *** [N,2B,A]
The corner. The 2 existing bolts are not well placed (this & the last 2 routes will hopefully be retrobolted one day soon). Top out
just right of the crack.

A MIXTURE OF FRAILTIES 25 **** [10D,A]
Start at chains on the ledge right of the corner. Climb up easy-ish ground heading a bit left. Then it gets harder...
YOU TOO BRUTUS 27 ***** [12D,A]
From the chains climb up and thinly right. Climb through the overlaps to the chains
Railway Tunnel
From the entrance to the ACRA wall parking, take the path down left to the railway tracks. Just before the active railway Tunnel
is a drainage gully on the right. The WB wall is a few metres down on the left, facing south. At the other side of the tunnel is The
East End, which faces the morning sun.
LOST TRACK 21 ** [6D,A]
From the WB graffiti, climb the left hand line to chains. Apart from the position (boggling) this route is not as good as it looks.
BOER SKIET DIEF DOOD 17 *** [8D,A]
Clip the first bolt on LOST TRACK, then up the right hand line and back to lower off LOST TRACK'S chains. BOER SKIET DIEF
DOOD was a newspaper headline that day!
Guide for The Railway Crags
These crags are the continuation of The Railway Tunnel Crag (WB Wall). They start with the Last Crag of the Century and then
after the tunnel exits on the east side you get The Right Lines, previously known as The East End. Toon Town continues on the
right. These crags cannot be missed after driving through the tunnel on the N4 towards Nelspruit, they will be visible for 2-3km
on the left. There is new development on these crags again with some long impressive lines still waiting to be developed.
Please respect any eagles or other birds of prey by staying away from their nesting areas. There is plenty of rock for both them
& climbers. Please email any new routes to routes@saclimb.co.za so that we can keep this guide up to date.
Last Crag of the Century
This crag follows on rightward from The Railway Tunnel crag. It is was also known as The Left Lines. Routes on this crag are
mostly over 30m long so please take care and be sure to tie a knot in the end of your rope! From the Railway Tunnel crag (WB
Wall) you will see rap chains in the gully which you can use to access the crag by rapping down and then walking along the
base. You can also follow a path along the top of the crags and rap in (tie knots in the rope, you may need upto 80m of rope in
places here!) To exit either do a risky solo up the same gulley, top out on one of the routes or walk all the way along the base
rightwards until you get to the railway tunnel exit on the east side (the start of The Right Lines), walk back through the tunnel
(with your ears wide open). This crag was first developed around the 31st December 1999.
SPORT CLIMBING IS DEAD 18 **** [N]
An obvious crack about 20 m right of the WB gully. The route is about 35m long.
ELECTRIC AVENUE 17 *** [9D,A]
A few steepish moves upto the anchors and the start of the next route.
ELECTRIC AVENUE EXTENTION 23 *** [9D,A]
Climb ELECTRIC AVENUE to a ledge, the climb starts here.
ENDLESS SUMMER 22 ***** [14D,A]
Technical moves on good holds. It gets harder if you don't move out right after the last bolt. An excellent and long 35+m route.
SUPERFLY 23 *** [17D,A]
The line just right of ENDLESS SUMMER.
GOOD TIMES 23+ **** [17D,A]
Technical face climbing with a thin crux. The route is fairly sustained too. This climb is 40m long, be prepared to top out or lower
off a single bolt!
FUDGE BEATS BURFEE 25 [10D,A]
AS THE WORLD DISAPPEARS 26 **** [13D,A]
Long 35m route, steep and sustained with great photo opportunities.
CAFFEINE JITTERS 13 [N]
1 13 18m Scramble up the bushy slab just right of 'As the world Dissapears' and head for the two protruding trees.
2 13 15m Climb the awesome fist sized crack to the top.
TRIPPIN' ON LIFE PROJECT [B,A]
Glenn Harisson's project.
TO CRACK OR NOT TO CRACK 20 [N]
1 20 20m Start on the corner below the obvious layback crack left of 'Who's Your Daddy'. Climb out underneath the undercut
flake using RP's and up to the obvious ledge.
2 14 12m Climb cracks straight to the top on good pro.
WHO'S YOUR DADDY? 18 **** [12D,A]
A nice long warm-up. Take your longest 60m rope!
THE THREE MOSQUITOS 21 **** [18D,A]
Just left of the big corner. A little crack, face and roof climbing. You can top out on this route and hike down along the trail back
towards the mouth of the tunnel. So end your day with this line if you still have something left in your veins to carry you up 40m!
This route was opened on 13 bolts!
UNTERWEGSNACH HAUS 24 ** [13D,A]
Just right of the arete, 38m long.
23 *** [13D,A]
WISH YOU WERE HERE
Share the first couple of bolts with UNTERWEGSNACH HAUS, then out right.
NATURE OF BEING 21 *** [9D,A,R]

Ever so slightly run out!!!
The Right Lines
TRAIN MASSACRE 25 *** [8D,A]
From the ACRA parking walk through the active train tunnel. As one exits the tunnel on the east side there is a blackish wall on
the left. Climb the line just right of the tracks to the chains.
BOIPATONG 19 *** [N]
6m right of the fence (right of TRAIN MASSACRE). Up to a break, up face, out left onto a slab, out right (#1 rock behind flake)
up to roof, traverse right and up to a ledge. Ab off tree 15m right.
Toon Town
Toon Town consists of the west-facing crags overlooking the railway after it exits from the Tunnel. They are visible before the
turnoff to Boven. After passing through the tunnel on the N4, driving towards Nelspruit drive for 2-3km. Pass the '5 Arches
Bridge' turnoff and a deep cutting, there is a dirt and partly concreted road turning off left, down across the river and up the hill
on the other side. After the steepest hill, there is a sharp turn up left (dirt) and after another 200m this meets the railway lines at
right angles. Turn left and follow the road until the end, below the cliffs. Slog 10 minutes up the hill. On the left is an impressive
face with a beautiful fingercrack, MANNENBURG. The next west face to the left has a seam, THE COLOR PURPLE bounded
by 2 wider cracks. The arete to the right is DAY OF DECIMATION. The next major south face left of COLOR PURPLE is taken
by AFRICAN ODYSSEY. Most of these routes are trad but there are a few sport lines and plenty potential for more bolted lines.
TOPLESS SKATEBOARD NUN 22+ ** [N]
About 50m left of AFRICAN ODYSSEY, are some big roofs halfway up the crag. Start up the obvious crack below these and
traverse left on the ledge until you are below the left hand end of the roof. Climb the crack to the roof. Pull through the cubby
hole onto the slab (crux needs friend #0) and follow the crack to the top.
UNDER A CHOKING SUN 19 *** [N,R]
4m right of TOPLESS SKATEBOARD NUN. Up orange face moving right to ledges and up a big shallow corner (crux) to grassy
ledge. Finish up crack on right. Rather gearless!
AFRICAN ODYSSEY 25 *** [13D,A]
Starting towards the left, follow the bolts into the centre of the face, then up a crack to finish. Take your thinnest fingers.
LITTLE MAN'S COMPLEX 22 ** [N,2B,A]
Climb the corner, moving left onto the slab and up to the coldshuts.
RACHEL AND REBECCA 18 *** [N]
The short but good-looking corner left of the arete project.
OPEN PROJECT 27+ [N,A]
The shortish arete 30m right of AFRICAN ODYSSEY. May be 26-28. Only has chains. This is Russel-Boulton's old project.
PUSS IN BOOTS 26 * [N,3B,A,R]
Climb the middle of the wall 2.5m right of the OPEN PROJECT. 30m right of AFRICAN ODYSSEY. The 3rd clip is tricky, a
gripper, clipper, whipper - ground fall. Use the chains on the arete.
NIGHT OF THE CRASH TEST DUMMIES 17 ** [N]
The biggest crack line on the left. Traverse slightly right at the top to exit.
THE COLOUR PURPLE 23 **** [N]
Trad climb, no bolts. On the west-facing wall to the right are 3 cracks. The left one goes at about 15. The seam in the middle is
THE COLOUR PURPLE. Vertical but tricky - may be 22 for tall dudes.
ECCENTRICA GALLUMBITZ 20 *** [N]
Trad climb, no bolts. The wider crack just to the right.
DAY OF DECIMATION 26 *** [N,3B,A]
The arete right of the 3 cracks. A few pieces of fixed gear may one day be supplemented - permission has been granted!
BLACK PLANET 20 *** [N]
Trad climb, no bolts. Around the arete to the right of the 3 cracks are 2 subsiduary corners. The right hand one is not too
pleasant (grade - 22/23). The left is BLACK PLANET.
DARK STAR 20 * [N]
1. 20 Climb the right corner. Exiting left.
2. 23 Optional pitch but not recommended. Move back right to the corner.
MANNENBURG 25 **** [N]
Start 4m right of the corner, climb the short face to below the roof, turn this and climb the crack to the top.
WHITE ARSES 17 ** [4D,A]
Behind the approach boulders 10m left of the Happy Acres Block. This is the line of ring bolts to the left of the obvious rightslanting
crack.
SLANTING CRACK 14 * [N]
Climb the rightward slanting crack.
THE LIGHTNESS OF BEING 25 ** [5D,A]
The line of ringbolts to the right of the crack.
First Ascent: M Jager 1993
KIMOSABE THE MUSIC'S STARTING 15 ** [N]
A finger crack up the on-balance wall, opposite the cave. Starts just right of the short, obvious layback crack.
ROGER STRIKES BACK 24 *** [9D,A]
Starts 6m left of the offwidth, DEATH BY BANDA just left of HAPPY ACRES CAVE. Go thinly up a seam, then up right until able
to go up and back leftwards to loweroffs near the arete.
DEATH BY BANDA 23 **** [N]
Climbs the obvious off-width crack as one enters the Happy Acres Cave. A fighting pitch of considerable merit and suitable for
the whole family. Take along 4 friends in the range #3.5 to #4.
THE IMMACULATE MISCONCEPTION 21 [N]
Climbs the crack line inside the cave.

HAPPY ACRES CAVE 3 *** [N]
Opened on-sight without a torch. Goes through behind the Happy Acres Boulder.
CHAMPION BARBED-WIRE HURDLER 19 * [N]
Located in the 'room' behind Happy Acres Boulder. Start below the large open book on the boulder. Climb past a roof to a ledge
at 5m. Traverse 2m left and up the diagonal crack, to exit past hollow flakes.
THOMPSON & THOMPSON 16 * [N]
Situated on the Happy Acres Boulder, opposite DEATH BY BANDA.
TRAMPLEPATH 20 ** [5D,A]
Another line of bolts, on the left of the Happy Acre Boulder.
WHISTLE STOP 17 * [N]
On railway side of boulder. Start in a small corner 5m right of the edge of the boulder, below the obvious broad crack line. Climb
the crack.
MINNIE MOUSE MENOPAUSE 22 *** [N,2B]
On the south face of the boulder. The slab with two bolts right of the big chimney crack. Take along a #2 friend.
FRED'S CORNFLAKE COLLECTION 14 ** [N]
Climb the big flake line right of MINNIE MOUSE MENOPAUSE.
KILL THE WABBIT 14 * [N]
Climbs the on-balance wall right of FRED'S CORNFLAKE COLLECTION. Move right towards the arete to the broken crack half
way up, then straight up.
LASER MISSION PROJECT 25+ [B]
On the face just left of the Happy Acres Boulder is a prominent flake/crack, THE BART MAN. This project is the line of bolts to
the left.
THE BART MAN 18 *** [N]
Situated on the main wall on the south side of the Happy Acres Boulder. The obvious flake line left of the chimney.
IT'S NO BULLDOG 22 [N]
The obvious think crack line left of SOMETHING UNDER THE BED IS DROOLING.
SOMETHING UNDER THE BED IS DROOLING 20 ** [N]
The short crack behind the pinnacle. Seam on left, long crack on right.
DOPEY DOES DE AAR 16 [N]
Still no sign of Dopey. Somewhere out there does he lurk.
PINK PANTHER SE PILLAR 17+ [N]
The climb follows the overhanging crack up the back of the pillar, opposite SOMETHING UNDER THE BED IS DROOLING.
PALM IT OFF 24 ** [8D,A]
Right of the BART MAN flake is a short pillar against the face. Next to this you may find this climb.
The Wild Side
A small crag right of Toon Town with a few natural lines. Cool in the morning.
. ................................ ..............
NO NAME 22 ***
EASY STREET 16 ** [N]
Start from the cave/recess and climb the left break on the prominent wall.
FLIES ON THE BACK OF A COW 18 *** [N]
Start a few metres right of EASY STREET and climb the right break on the prominent wall.
MOON DREAMER 20 ** [N]
On the next wall to the right. Climb the line just right of the recess finishing up the left leaning break.
First Ascent: G Laurens, Dave Walden 1993
SLOTH ON THE LOOSE 22 ** [N]
The object is the nice looking headwall up on the right. Start a few metres right of MOON DREAMER and climb up to the
headwall. Follow the neat line to the top.
First Ascent: G Laurens, Dave Walden 1993