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The Restaurant at the End of the Universe (The ... - Climb ZA

The Restaurant at the End of the Universe (The ... - Climb ZA

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East facing with morning sun, this crag is about 20m high. Park <strong>at</strong> <strong>the</strong> east end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> N4 tunnel, walk back along <strong>the</strong> old road to<br />

<strong>the</strong> entrance <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>ZA</strong>ZM tunnel.<br />

TREE LOVE 17 *** [N]<br />

15m left <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> tunnel. <strong>Climb</strong> <strong>the</strong> tangle <strong>of</strong> overhanging roots to a stance. Up corner for 2m <strong>the</strong>n right and up <strong>the</strong> cracks, exit on<br />

slab to right.<br />

TETROGRAD RAT AND THE YEOVILLE DIVA 22 *** [N]<br />

<strong>Climb</strong> <strong>the</strong> tangle <strong>of</strong> overhanging roots to a stance 5m right <strong>of</strong> TREE LOVE's rock start. <strong>Climb</strong> <strong>the</strong> corner through a ro<strong>of</strong>, 3m right<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> prow. Exits up left groove/ chimney.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Junkyard<br />

<strong>The</strong> crags opposite <strong>The</strong> Last Crag <strong>of</strong> <strong>The</strong> Century, <strong>the</strong>y are effectively on <strong>the</strong> outside <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> old <strong>ZA</strong>ZM tunnel. To get <strong>the</strong>re, park<br />

on <strong>the</strong> east side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> new Tunnel. <strong>The</strong>re is usually a 'guard' <strong>the</strong>re who will w<strong>at</strong>ch your car. Walk through <strong>the</strong> old Tunnel (with a<br />

torch), <strong>the</strong>n turn right and walk back along <strong>the</strong> base for 200m. You can also from <strong>the</strong> old road take <strong>the</strong> tourist p<strong>at</strong>h on <strong>the</strong><br />

outside <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> tunnel along <strong>the</strong> crag. <strong>The</strong>re is potential for several routes here still.<br />

JUST BEFORE BREAKFAST 18 ** [N]<br />

On <strong>the</strong> fur<strong>the</strong>rmost lefthand side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> crag, right by a small gully <strong>the</strong>re is an obvious crack.<br />

EASTSOLOING 15 [N]<br />

<strong>Climb</strong> <strong>the</strong> arete on <strong>the</strong> opposite side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> pinnacle to COMING OF PRIDE.<br />

SOUTH CORNER 15 [N]<br />

<strong>Climb</strong> <strong>the</strong> recess <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> right <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> pillar on <strong>the</strong> river side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> pinnacle.<br />

STYLING 17 ** [N]<br />

<strong>Climb</strong>s <strong>the</strong> arete left <strong>of</strong> COMING oF PRIDE.<br />

COMING OF PRIDE 17 * [N]<br />

<strong>Climb</strong>s <strong>the</strong> crack up <strong>the</strong> front <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> free-standing pinnacle. (<strong>The</strong> w<strong>at</strong>erfall lurks behind you while climbing.)<br />

BOA RODEO 31 [N]<br />

OUT OF GERMANY 23 ** [4D,N]<br />

<strong>The</strong> line and <strong>the</strong> view <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> falls are stunning. <strong>The</strong> climbing doesn't quite m<strong>at</strong>ch this. You need friends #.5, #2.5 and some<br />

lower-<strong>of</strong>fs.<br />

LITTLE BITCH 24 * [B,N]<br />

<strong>Climb</strong>s <strong>the</strong> wall around to <strong>the</strong> right <strong>of</strong> OUT OF GERMANY.<br />

NO NAME 13 [N]<br />

1. 11 <strong>Climb</strong> tree for 5m, step over to face.<br />

2. 13 Move through overlap up from ledge.<br />

Acra Wall<br />

Indeed an absolutely awesome area! Pictures <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> wall have appeared in most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> best climbing mags in <strong>the</strong> world, as well<br />

as on posters and bookcovers. It certainly merits more <strong>at</strong>tention. <strong>The</strong> wall faces approxim<strong>at</strong>ely south, so it gets no sun in winter<br />

and a few hours on summer mornings. It is about 30m high but most routes start on a ledge 5m up. Most routes will need<br />

brushing unless <strong>the</strong>y have been recently climbed. <strong>The</strong> rock quality, length <strong>of</strong> routes and views make it <strong>the</strong> most stunning wall <strong>at</strong><br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Restaurant</strong>. Only God No! Wall is as stunning, but th<strong>at</strong> does not have <strong>the</strong> views. To get <strong>the</strong>re we recommend driving back<br />

towards <strong>the</strong> main road to Nelspruit (N4) from Boven. Turn right onto this road, towards Nelspruit. Drive a few kilometres until<br />

you pass through a tunnel, park directly on your left as you get through <strong>the</strong> tunnel. <strong>The</strong>re is usuall a 'guard' here to w<strong>at</strong>ch your<br />

car. Walk through <strong>the</strong> old Zazm tunnel (with a torch) back along <strong>the</strong> N4. Turn right down a slope to cross <strong>the</strong> river before it<br />

becomes <strong>the</strong> w<strong>at</strong>erfall. A big jump may be required here or to avoid this jump walk over <strong>the</strong> bridge first and <strong>the</strong>n back down <strong>the</strong><br />

o<strong>the</strong>r side. Walk on past a parking spot & track leading to it. This is <strong>the</strong> proper parking but local 'shoppers' like cars & <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

contents. To get to this parking by car drive towards Boven from <strong>the</strong> campsite. At <strong>the</strong> stop street continue down towards <strong>the</strong><br />

st<strong>at</strong>ion, and take a right into First Avenue. Go straight <strong>at</strong> a nominal stopsign and left <strong>at</strong> a T-junction just over 1km from <strong>the</strong><br />

st<strong>at</strong>ion. After 600-700m take a left down a rough dirt track across a low level bridge, keeping right <strong>at</strong> a fork. <strong>The</strong> track goes<br />

under <strong>the</strong> N4 bridge on <strong>the</strong> Elands river bank and ends <strong>at</strong> a turning circle. To get down to <strong>the</strong> ACRA wall, rap 25-30m down<br />

from chains in a slot <strong>at</strong> <strong>the</strong> top to swing into a ledge 5m above <strong>the</strong> base. <strong>The</strong> first 2 routes start <strong>at</strong> <strong>the</strong> base (30-35m down). To<br />

exit from <strong>the</strong> ledge o<strong>the</strong>r than by climbing, rap down ano<strong>the</strong>r 25m to <strong>the</strong> ground, hike right for 60m and scramble up <strong>the</strong> steep<br />

rocky gully to <strong>the</strong> top (WB graffiti wall on right). Packs & gear left on top also make <strong>the</strong> 'shoppers' happy, (r<strong>at</strong>her clip your packs<br />

on a bolt or two down a climb). <strong>The</strong> inconvenience <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 'shoppers' is worth it considering <strong>the</strong> stunning wall <strong>of</strong> rock.<br />

URISK THE RUSTIC BROWNIE 22+ [11D,A]<br />

<strong>The</strong> first line to <strong>the</strong> left <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> w<strong>at</strong>erfall when facing downstream. Rap down to anchors and climb back out.<br />

SORCERY 25R **** [N,R]<br />

Awesome line - famous for <strong>the</strong> photo opportunity with <strong>the</strong> w<strong>at</strong>erfall in <strong>the</strong> background. Starting just left <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> arete, climb it.<br />

Take care, protection is not abundant!<br />

SATAN'S TEMPLE 29 ***** [14D,A]<br />

Starts just right <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> arete <strong>at</strong> ground level. <strong>The</strong> route may need brushing unless it has been recently climbed. But this is an<br />

awesome climb in an awesome place.<br />

UNLIMITED POWER 27 ***** [10D,A]<br />

Starts from <strong>the</strong> chains on <strong>the</strong> left <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ledge. You need a 60m rope to reach this comfortably from <strong>the</strong> top chains; with a 50m it<br />

can be reached from <strong>the</strong> lower set <strong>of</strong> chains 5m down. <strong>Climb</strong> steeply up left to <strong>the</strong> headwall. Continue up a break to chains.<br />

SCREAMING BLUE MESSIAH 26 **** [N]<br />

Trad line - no bolts. From <strong>the</strong> chains <strong>at</strong> <strong>the</strong> left edge <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ledge, head slightly right into <strong>the</strong> obvious break. Keep going.<br />

SOMETHING ESOTERIC 24 **** [N,3B,A]<br />

<strong>The</strong> next crack right <strong>of</strong> SCREAMING BLUE MESSIAH, about 4m right <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> first corner. Zap up to chains. It is possible to<br />

access <strong>the</strong>se by scrambling (10-11?) in from <strong>the</strong> top, but w<strong>at</strong>ch it...<br />

JITTERBUG PERFUME 25 *** [N,2B,A]<br />

<strong>The</strong> corner. <strong>The</strong> 2 existing bolts are not well placed (this & <strong>the</strong> last 2 routes will hopefully be retrobolted one day soon). Top out<br />

just right <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> crack.

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