The Restaurant at the End of the Universe (The ... - Climb ZA
The Restaurant at the End of the Universe (The ... - Climb ZA
The Restaurant at the End of the Universe (The ... - Climb ZA
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<strong>The</strong> Left Wings<br />
To get <strong>the</strong>re walk as for <strong>the</strong> Superbowl and follow <strong>the</strong> p<strong>at</strong>h down <strong>the</strong> gully. This p<strong>at</strong>h splits, take <strong>the</strong> right, and <strong>of</strong>ten poorlydefined<br />
p<strong>at</strong>h to <strong>the</strong> left. <strong>The</strong> routes start about 50m along. Shady after 11h30 or so depending on season.<br />
HERMAN THE GERMAN 26 ** [10B]<br />
<strong>Climb</strong> up <strong>the</strong> next route to <strong>the</strong> recess, rail 2m left and <strong>the</strong>n up <strong>the</strong> headwall.<br />
HERMAN'S ROUTE 24 ** [5D,N]<br />
Stick clip <strong>the</strong> 1st bolt or place friends. Move up wall to gain recess. <strong>Climb</strong> right and up to a tree. <strong>The</strong>re are no anchors.<br />
First Ascent: Herman du Plessis 1992<br />
CHUNKY MONKEY 27 **** [9D,A]<br />
<strong>The</strong> route is loc<strong>at</strong>ed around <strong>the</strong> corner, 20m to <strong>the</strong> right <strong>of</strong> HERMAN'S ROUTE. It starts <strong>at</strong> blocks <strong>at</strong> a prominent ro<strong>of</strong>ed<br />
arete, with a small ro<strong>of</strong> <strong>at</strong> about 8m and a large square ro<strong>of</strong> <strong>at</strong> 12 m. <strong>The</strong> line follows 7 bolts up this arete, railing out along<br />
<strong>the</strong> lip <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> large ro<strong>of</strong> to end on a face <strong>at</strong> chains.<br />
HOUNDS MOUSSE 25 [11D,A]<br />
8m right <strong>of</strong> CHUNKEY MONKEY.<br />
NEW YORK CHOCOLATE FUDGE CRUNCH 18 ** [10D,A]<br />
<strong>The</strong>re is a big corner topped by a ro<strong>of</strong> just right <strong>of</strong> CHUNKY MONKEY. This route takes <strong>the</strong> arete right <strong>of</strong> this corner. <strong>The</strong><br />
lower <strong>of</strong>fs are too small to fit both rope & draws through when cleaning.<br />
TRUE BLUE 16 ** [N]<br />
Takes <strong>the</strong> corner left <strong>of</strong> WYSIWYG. Route may be retrobolted - see WYSIWYG description.<br />
WYSIWYG 12 * [N]<br />
<strong>Climb</strong>s <strong>the</strong> obvious corner ramp to <strong>the</strong> left <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> large stacked ro<strong>of</strong>s. Permission has been given for this route to be<br />
retrobolted as long as <strong>the</strong> opening party & route names remain <strong>the</strong> same.<br />
TIM'S PROJECT 28+ [N,A]<br />
<strong>Climb</strong>s <strong>the</strong> steep red wall with anchors.<br />
HOME ALONE 19 [N]<br />
<strong>Climb</strong> <strong>the</strong> corner and up a short v-groove to <strong>the</strong> top. Route may be retrobolted - see WYSIWYG description.<br />
ALICE 21 *** [N]<br />
5m left <strong>of</strong> THROUGH THE LOOKING GLASS. <strong>Climb</strong> <strong>the</strong> crack for 20m to <strong>the</strong> top. This is possibly <strong>the</strong> same route as<br />
PUPPET ON A STRING.<br />
PUPPET ON A STRING 20 **** [N]<br />
About 50-60m along right from <strong>the</strong> descent gully is a shallow corner. Just left is a fine looking crack. <strong>Climb</strong> <strong>the</strong> crack. Route<br />
may be retrobolted - see WYSIWYG description.<br />
THROUGH THE LOOKING GLASS 20 *** [N]<br />
<strong>The</strong> shallow corner. Route may be retrobolted - see WYSIWYG description.<br />
UITERS TORS 21 * [N,R]<br />
Trad route between THROUGH THE LOOKING GLASS & ENDLESS OCTOBER. <strong>Climb</strong>s a gnarly thin seam & trends up &<br />
left. Poor gear.<br />
<strong>The</strong> <strong>The</strong><strong>at</strong>re<br />
Access as for Left Wings. From <strong>the</strong> descent gully walk northwards (right) for about 150m to <strong>the</strong> obvious amphi<strong>the</strong><strong>at</strong>re or rap<br />
in from <strong>the</strong> top. Shady from midday.<br />
ENDLESS OCTOBER 24 **** [9D,A]<br />
At <strong>the</strong> left end <strong>of</strong> <strong>The</strong> <strong>The</strong><strong>at</strong>re is a raised ledge/block. Scramble up about 8m fur<strong>the</strong>r along and walk back to <strong>the</strong> left hand<br />
edge. <strong>Climb</strong> out left and up to <strong>the</strong> chains.<br />
SWEET COUSIN COCAINE 25 *** [10D,A]<br />
From <strong>the</strong> right <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> block climb past a bouldery lower section and a crack to <strong>the</strong> right <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> overlap to a two bolt lower-<strong>of</strong>f.<br />
We need verific<strong>at</strong>ion if <strong>the</strong>re are indeed top anchors on this route ?<br />
NIGHT OF THE TOAST 23 ** [N,1P]<br />
<strong>The</strong> obvious crackline on <strong>the</strong> left <strong>of</strong> <strong>The</strong> <strong>The</strong><strong>at</strong>re, just left <strong>of</strong> SWEET COUSIN COCAINE.<br />
First Ascent: Stewart Middlemiss 1991<br />
BIKINI RED 27 **** [9D]<br />
Starts 3m right <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> obvious crack NIGHT OF THE TOAST.<br />
SHUT UP AND DIE LIKE AN AVIATOR 16 ** [N,R]<br />
<strong>Climb</strong>s <strong>the</strong> scoop 5m right <strong>of</strong> BIKINI RED. Very poorly protected.<br />
First Ascent: Mike Hislop 1992<br />
STAGE FRIGHT 20 [N]<br />
<strong>Climb</strong>s <strong>the</strong> arete to <strong>the</strong> choss above. Possibly has anchors ?<br />
CENTRE STAGE 18 [N]<br />
This is <strong>the</strong> leftmost route on <strong>the</strong> right wall <strong>of</strong> <strong>The</strong> <strong>The</strong><strong>at</strong>re. <strong>Climb</strong>s <strong>the</strong> corner. Fight your way through <strong>the</strong> choss <strong>at</strong> <strong>the</strong> top<br />
and avoid killing people below. Possibly has some bolts now.<br />
INTO THE NIGHT WE SLIDE 23 ** [N]<br />
Just to <strong>the</strong> right <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> major dihedral in <strong>The</strong> <strong>The</strong><strong>at</strong>re, a few metres left <strong>of</strong> HEART OF CHINA. Sparse gear.<br />
HEART OF CHINA 23 **** [N,1B,A]<br />
Splits <strong>the</strong> right half <strong>of</strong> <strong>The</strong> <strong>The</strong><strong>at</strong>re. One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> best lines <strong>at</strong> <strong>The</strong> <strong>Restaurant</strong>, if more stainless steel could be added.<br />
GRANT'S PROJECT 28+ **** [8B,A]<br />
<strong>The</strong> line <strong>of</strong> 'accidentally' smashed bolts just to <strong>the</strong> left <strong>of</strong> HEART OF CHINA'S impressive crack. Face moves with a bouldery<br />
crux.<br />
KINDRED SPIRITS 25 **** [9D]<br />
At <strong>the</strong> right end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ledge, climb up a few moves, and right around <strong>the</strong> corner to under a ro<strong>of</strong> (awkward 2nd clip out left).<br />
From here crank wildly to <strong>the</strong> top.