The Restaurant at the End of the Universe (The ... - Climb ZA

More documents

Recommendations

Info

IN THROUGH THE OUT DOOR 21 ** [N,R] Climbs the line 7m right of GRETCHEN GOES TO NEBRASKA, on the face left of the arete. Dicey gear, mostly small wires. BONAR 20 **** [14D,A] Fine moves up the steep left arete on positive holds. Long and pumpy. MJS 18 ** [11D,A] A single hard move through the groove near the ground. G.P. LE CHUCK 21 ** [9D,A] Starts as for RED HERRING, then goes left after the first bolt. Somewhat contrived finishing crux. RED HERRING 20 **** [9D,A] A great climb up the middle of the face. FARADAY'S CAGE 17 * [10D,A] Starts a few meters right of RED HERRING, up the right side of the face. Bad bolts now fixed up by Darryl. The Gaper Buttress Can you miss it? A steep path to the base goes down just left facing the crag. There also is a path along the base from the Easter/Gaper Face to the right. ATOMIC AARDVARK 24 **** [12D,A] Starts up a small corner on the left of the buttress after a short scramble from the base. The addition of 6 bolts to this route has not changed the poor position of some of the originals but has greatly reduced the plummet potential. The route is just over 25m. Tie a knot in the other end of the rope! THE GIFT 27 *** [9D,A] Up the centre of the buttress starting from the base. Also grew a few extra bolts, turning it into a true sport route. Use ATOMIC AARDVARK'S lower-offs 25-26m back to earth. THE FIX 28+ *** [9D,A] Starts from a stance 8m up. Rap down to the first bolt. Shuts courtesy of Doc Roger. One of the harder 28's around and also excrutiatingly technical. ACHTUNG BABY 24 *** [8D,A] Starts from the top of a pillar around the corner from the main Buttress. This can be accessed either by rapping or scrambling up from the right. Thin move at the start. ZOO STATION 23 *** [8D,A] 2m right of ACHTUNG BABY. Reach from top of the pillar top to clip the first bolt. L'IL ARETE NUMBER 21 *** [6D,A] About 8m right of the ZOO STATION Pillar. Approach from the right and scramble up to belay at the first bolt. Easy start - puzzling finish. More difficult for the vertically challenged. FIRST DIMENSION 21+ ** [6D,A] Belay at LITTLE ARETE NUMBER'S first bolt. Climb the seam. Finish up right -following the crack to the death is harder. Use LITTLE ARETE NUMBER'S lower-offs. The Gaper Face Follow the fence (next to the cement slab) to the edge near GAPER CAPER. Scramble/climb down through the tree on the left (right as you look out) or go around the fence, north for 60m and down via The Easter Face. POCKET ROCKET 25 *** [8D,A] 10m left of The Gaper Face proper. 8m right of FIRST DIMENSION. LOUNGE LIZARD 21 ** [7D,A] The leftmost route on the face near the corner. Reachy. BRAIN DEAD 23 *** [6D,A] Starts up a diagonal seam from a ledge about 4m from the corner on the left of the face. GAPER CAPER 21 *** [7D,A] Step off the right edge of the ledge - climb the face to shuts. GROCKEL MANIA 22 ** [7D,A] Start 2m right of the ledge. GAPER TRAIL 20 ** [N,2B] Climb up as for TO GAPE OR NOT TO BE, then break up left past two bolts and a #3.5 friend placement. TO GAPE OR NOT TO BE 20 ** [N,2B,R] Climb the seam on the right (wires), then up the wall above past two bolts. DECK CHAIR 25 ** [7D,A] Very thin moves up the blank slab 10m right of GROCKEL MANIA. Gets easy after a few moves. GAPER GO-GO 11 [N] Start below the triangular corner. Trend slighlty left towards the top. The Easter Face From the fence at the top of the Gaper Face, walk northwards for 60m and down the steep hill to the right. The Easter Face is 8-10m high next to a large boulder. It is 10m right of Deck Chair. PASSION PLAY 23 ** [5D,A]
Start on the left almost under the tree. Tricky move left near the top. CROWN OF THORNS 24 *** [6D,A] Start as for PASSION PLAY. Continue up the diagonal line across the face to the top. LAST STATION 22 ** [5D,A] Straight up the right hand side of the face. The Monsoon Wall This is the outcrop visible on the left extremity of the "main land" when looking back from The Island. At 250m from the dormitory fence you should find a very large (25-30m long) detached block/island on the edge of the escarpment. Step onto it and walk across. Peer over the edge to locate 2 sets of chains (TROPICAL FRONT, PSYCHEDELIC SANDWITCH) and rap. A very bushy approach is possible by going down a grass ramp 150m from the fence at a large bush on your right. It is also possible to downscramble the south edge of the block, starting in the trench after 240m. ANDY'S ROUTE 19 ** [8D,A] Go 15m left from the rap-down, past a large roof low down. This route goes up a dark blunt arete to chains RACHEL'S PROJECT [B] Chains about 10m left of TROPICAL FRONT. Presumably it will break through between the stepped roofs. PSYCHEDELIC SANDWICH 23 ** [7D,A] Starts 2m left of TROPICAL FRONT. You have to move a bit right after reaching through the overlap to experience the crux - escaping left is about 20. TROPICAL FRONT 20 ** [7D,A] Up the face left of obvious corner. Contrived 23 version : Move off small crimper 1m left of big flat holds and layback crack used for the 20. HAMMER TIME 19 ** [6D,A] Starts up the corner just right of TROPICAL FRONT. Pull through roof on the left, then up the face right of the corner on small holds. GUNG HO 24 ** [7D,A] Starts 1m left of the corner crack/ramp 8m to the right. Uses thin crack and arete to reach the crux overlap. THE EGO HAS LANDED 17 ** [7D,A] Starts up a corner crack next to a ramp 8m right of the main corner. GLASS AND A HALF 16 ** [7D,A] Breaks right onto the slab from the corner crack on THE EGO HAS LANDED just before the crux layback. WILD HEARTED SUN 24 *** [6D,A] Just around the arete, about 15m right from the corner next to TROPICAL FRONT. ANGEL DUST 22 **** [6D,A] Up the hard-looking right-slanting crack 8m right of WILD HEARTED SUN. RAINBOW CHILDREN 24 **** [6D,A] The line up overlaps on the corner 3m right of ANGEL DUST. Guide for The Island An isolated island of rock northward from the campsite, it sports many routes in an excellent setting. Follow the path as for Flying is Fun from the campsite, past the pool, through the fence. The path forks right, take this and walk to a cairn. Walk down through the gulley and back up to the Island. The Gulley, Boulevard and Beach are all on the road-side with Never-Never land on the left (town side). The Gulley From the top of the Island walk northwards (towards the road) for 50m through various stone kraals across the Island to overlook the main road far below. You should only have to walk 20-40m to your right to find an obvious gully leading steeply down to the left. The routes on the outside of the gulley can be found in The Boulevard area. This area is mostly shaded and makes for good year-round climbing. There are some good face routes to be found here. AMAZONIAN WAR DANCE 21 *** [6D,A] Climbs the face and arete at the end of the first wall on the right going down the gully (opposite LJS) Hard to onsight. LONG JOHN SILVER 20 *** [9D,A] Face to a small roof about 15m down the gully on the left. ROCK ISLAND 20 *** [8D,A] The seam just right of LJS. Opened on natural gear in the dark ages. Unintentionally retrobolted and renamed Fantasia. Thanks, Ian, good job! FACE THE MUSIC 21 *** [9D,A] The (very) thin face just right of Rock Island. Was the hardest 20 around - still one of the harder 21's about! RETURN TO THE WOLGAN VALLEY 18 **** [11D,A] The smooth-looking slab 15m down from Rock Island. Reminded me of a crag in the Blue Mountains near Sydney. Not difficult for the grade. ALLEGRO NON TROPPO 19 **** [13D,A]
Page 1 and 2: The Restaurant at the End of the Un
Page 3 and 4: Wonderland Area ***** This is one o
Page 5 and 6: Start either 4m right of the fig tr
Page 7 and 8: First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl M
Page 9 and 10: Goes through the tree roots as for
Page 11 and 12: The Right Wings Access as for Left
Page 13 and 14: Abseil off the big stamvrug and the
Page 15: Guide for Gaper Area This area enco
Page 19 and 20: DASSIEBURGER 22R *** [10D,1A] 5m ri
Page 21 and 22: The same as PRINCE OF DARNESS, but
Page 23 and 24: DWARF TOSSING 22 ** [7D,A] The slab
Page 25 and 26: A MIXTURE OF FRAILTIES 25 **** [10D
Page 27: HAPPY ACRES CAVE 3 *** [N] Opened o

The Restaurant at the End of the Universe (The ... - Climb ZA

Create successful ePaper yourself

Delete template?

Save as template?