The Restaurant at the End of the Universe (The ... - Climb ZA

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separated by hard moves. LIKE A BOX OF CHOCOLATES 14 *** [9D,A] This and the next 2 routes are situated on the east side of the little gorge, directly opposite the stream overlook. Cross the river at the cascades upstream and go a few metres beyond the twin aloes to a clean area of rock with a couple of bolts in it. Descend into the chasm opposite the path down by rapping off the chains, on a separate rope if you want it to stay dry. Take a rucksack for the lead rope. IYWITSD. This route is protected by ringbolts, starting from 2, just above and downstream of the following 2 routes. If you deviate a metre left at the crux, the grade goes down to 11/12 - still fun, though. RUN FOREST RUN 12 **** [11D,A] Start from the lower of the belay points on the right. Climb the spotlessly clean wall, exiting left at the top. FOREST GUMP 15 *** [14D,A] Climb the same spotlessly clean wall, but move rightwards through the small roof. Take all the previous precautions for a happy ending to a great route. NOTHING IN MODERATION 23 *** [6D,A] Slab route at the water's edge. Take a toothbrush to clean after rain. THE DARK SIDE 22 *** [5D,A] Another slab route, 3-4m right. JUST STICK IT 23 ** [5D,A] Short power face problem, the leftmost in The Gym. First Ascent: Ian Guest 1994 BOOGER BEING 25 *** [5D,A] Sustained powerful route up the arete. MONKS IN THE GYM 28 *** [4D,A] Mega power problem just right of the arete. Stick clip the first bolt. MONKEY MONKEY 19 *** [5D,A] Route with power start, 3m right of the arete. Burly. NUNS ON THE RUN 28 *** [6D,A] Starts just right of MONKEY MONKEY. Thin start. LITHIUM 24 *** [5D,A] The original route here. About 2-3m left of the gully. Some suggest the grade is 23? ANY OBJECTIONS? 19 ** [7D,A] Follows a crack line just left of the gully corner on the right of the face.
Guide for Gaper Area This area encompasses the easily accessible crags near the Restaurant. The Gaper Area name comes from the gapers that watch the limbers from the top of the Gaper Buttress. There are 2 fences going down to the cliff edge - one directly East from the dormitories and one diagonally (N-E) from the Restaurant. Specific directions relate to these. The School At the end of the diagonal fence, follow a path cutting back in front of the Restaurant southwards along the cliff top. After 50m it splits - the left path goes steeply down to the Restaurant Crag. Walking far enough along the base will bring you to The School at the far end. Perhaps easier is to take the right fork along the top to the far end of the cliff (a direct path from the campsite over the fence joins here). The path towards the Triple Tier Crag goes down steeply here to the right. At the right moment (after 40-50m) duck down left to the base of a buttress. THE GALLERY 20 *** [9D,A] Steep start to a great face/corner. Stiff take-off. Could well be 21 for any height. I GUEST NOT 25 *** [10D,A] Steep powerful arete just right of THE GALLERY. I suspect there's a good reason Ian didn't open this one....!(Hard?) FIRST ASSIGNMENT 16 *** [9D,A] Classic at its grade. Vertical wall facing north. The Restaurant Crag To get to the left end from the campsite, go down to The School and follow the base for another 50-60m northwards. Otherwise go down past the Restaurant, taking the steep left fork down (see Access to The School). All the crags face east. PURPLE DROLL 21 ** [N] We still need to verify the position of this route. Climb the thin crack about 30m left of WORLDS APART and around the corner. Climb up to a tree and into a chimney. ATTACK OF THE KILLER TREE 17 ** [?D,A] The left most route to the left of the dead tree. NOT THE NINE O'CLOCK NEWS 22 *** [?D,A] Some interesting layback moves at the top. The route starts at the tree and moves rightwards to the chains. MOSTLY HARMLESS 27 *** [8D,A] Starts just right of a very steep smooth wall next to tree roots. The huge break up the wall is a few metres to the right. ERASERHEAD 28 **** [10D,A] Clip BLOCKBUSTER'S first bolt, then continue straight up as BLOCKBUSTER trends slightly right. BLOCKBUSTER 25 *** [9D,A] Starts just right of ERASERHEAD. Beware - bolted on rap. THE PLAYPEN 26 *** [9D,A] Just to the right of the chimney-with-teeth. Cruxy. JAMBO 24/25 **** [13D,A] 2m right of PLAYPEN. Climbs a small arete to a roof 5m up. Then take the left break up to shuts. It is a great route. FLAMBEAU 23 **** [12D,A] Start up the 1st 4 bolts of JAMBO, then somewhat right to chains. Don't relax too much on the headwall... LIMBO DIRECT 21 ** [12D,A] Direct start past a bolt to lunge for branch. LIMBO 20 ** [11D,A] Climb the tree roots 7m right of JAMBO, walk left along the limb, then up the wall to chains. Great climbing - after the tree. JIGABOO 24 **** [?D,A] An excellent line. WORLD'S APART 26 **** [?D,A] A classic finger crack, in the middle of the Restaurant crag. Retrobolted by Peter - it is now helluva popular. LOOKING FOR THE LOBSTER 21 ** [12D,A] About 25m right of JAMBO & 8m right of the WORLD'S APART fingercrack. Start up the slab, through the tree on the left to reach good climbing up the crack and face above. RED HARVEST 19 *** [8D,A] 3m right of LOOKING FOR THE LOBSTER, starting on the lower Gretchen ledge. Can be climbed from the bottom as the shuts are 24m up, go right around the tree. JUNGLE UNCLE 20 * [N] Climbs the shallow corner to he left of GRETCHEN GOES TO NEBRASKA. GRETCHEN GOES TO NEBRASKA 21 *** [8D,A] Starts from a subsidiary ledge 10m up at rap/belay bolts. Rap in from bolts at the top, or climb/scramble to the ledge from the right. AMAZON AUNT 17 ** [10D,A] Bolted jamcrack just right of Gretchen, on the same ledge. Great climb to practice trad leading. TO GRETCHEN ET AL 15 * [9D,A] Climb 7 bolts just left of BONAR and step left to Gretchen's stance. You can go around the dihedral on the left at about 10/11 to gain the ledges. You can use this to go staight through onto the other climbs, but it is probably more fun to belay and do 2 or 3 pitches from the large ledge. OUT THROUGH THE IN DOOR 22/23 *** [13D,A] Up TO GRETCHEN ET AL; at the top of the dihedral, climb the left hand crack on the face. Gary Lotter's IN THROUGH THE OUT DOOR probably goes out onto the arete now occupied by BONAR.
Page 1 and 2: The Restaurant at the End of the Un
Page 3 and 4: Wonderland Area ***** This is one o
Page 5 and 6: Start either 4m right of the fig tr
Page 7 and 8: First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl M
Page 9 and 10: Goes through the tree roots as for
Page 11 and 12: The Right Wings Access as for Left
Page 13: Abseil off the big stamvrug and the
Page 17 and 18: Start on the left almost under the
Page 19 and 20: DASSIEBURGER 22R *** [10D,1A] 5m ri
Page 21 and 22: The same as PRINCE OF DARNESS, but
Page 23 and 24: DWARF TOSSING 22 ** [7D,A] The slab
Page 25 and 26: A MIXTURE OF FRAILTIES 25 **** [10D
Page 27: HAPPY ACRES CAVE 3 *** [N] Opened o

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