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The Restaurant at the End of the Universe (The ... - Climb ZA

The Restaurant at the End of the Universe (The ... - Climb ZA

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Start in <strong>the</strong> corner below a <strong>the</strong> small ro<strong>of</strong>. Above <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> climb <strong>the</strong> open book to <strong>the</strong> chains.<br />

First Ascent: Gareth Frost & Darryl Margetts Oct 1999<br />

SAND GLOD 16 [12D,A]<br />

This is a vari<strong>at</strong>ion to MISSION FROM GLOD (MFG). Start up <strong>the</strong> break in <strong>the</strong> face to <strong>the</strong> right <strong>of</strong> MFG and move back into<br />

<strong>the</strong> open book above <strong>the</strong> small ro<strong>of</strong> and finish on <strong>the</strong> last 6 bolts <strong>of</strong> MFG to finish on <strong>the</strong> same chains.<br />

First Ascent: Gareth Frost & Darryl Margetts Oct 1999<br />

EMANCIPATED SPIDER CHICKS 20 **** [9D,A]<br />

<strong>Climb</strong> <strong>the</strong> face to <strong>the</strong> left <strong>of</strong> BUTTERFLY SNOWSTORM.<br />

First Ascent: Apr 2000 G. Frost & Darryl Margetts<br />

BUTTERFLY SNOWSTORM 15 *** [7D,A]<br />

<strong>Climb</strong> <strong>the</strong> left facing corner just left <strong>of</strong> ROCKY'S.<br />

First Ascent: On Trad : Dave Chesney, Darryl Margetts, Greg Devine & Tim Wilmot Retrobolted by G Frost & Darryl<br />

Margetts Apr 2000<br />

ROCKY'S 13 [10D,A]<br />

This climb starts on <strong>the</strong> far right hand side, starting <strong>at</strong> <strong>the</strong> bottom <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> steep descent on <strong>the</strong> walk in.<br />

First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts 1999<br />

THE LADDER 13 [13D,A]<br />

Route just left <strong>of</strong> ROCKY'S.<br />

First Ascent: Oct 2000 On Trad by Dave Chesney, Darryl Margetts. Retrobolted by Darryl Margetts & Dave Chesney.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Superbowl<br />

See Wonderland inform<strong>at</strong>ion for access. From <strong>the</strong> parking you can walk back along <strong>the</strong> road until you see a small cairn on<br />

<strong>the</strong> right side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> road. You should see a drain going under <strong>the</strong> road here - a p<strong>at</strong>h leads <strong>of</strong>f from here. It takes you to <strong>the</strong><br />

cliff face where it splits. <strong>The</strong> p<strong>at</strong>h to <strong>the</strong> right & down will lead you to some hard to find rap points, take care some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

crags are 30m high. <strong>The</strong> left option takes you to a small cairn which indic<strong>at</strong>es a u-turn in <strong>the</strong> p<strong>at</strong>h which <strong>the</strong>n heads down a<br />

steep gully to <strong>the</strong> crags. You can also walk along <strong>the</strong> cliff from God No or Hallucinogenic & keep going until you see <strong>the</strong><br />

cairn & p<strong>at</strong>h doing a u-turn down a steep p<strong>at</strong>h to <strong>the</strong> crags. <strong>The</strong> sun leaves <strong>the</strong> face by mid-morning. This crag is superb<br />

with some real long classics - a must. <strong>The</strong>re are a few bushmen paintings and pottery remains here, please don't remove or<br />

deface <strong>the</strong>m.<br />

FRAZZLE 31 **** [B,A]<br />

Like SNAPDRAGON this is an excellent route. It was once Roger's Project and is 5m left <strong>of</strong> SNAPDRAGON.<br />

First Ascent: Jan 2000 Paul Brouard, Bolted by Roger N<strong>at</strong>trass and some by M<strong>at</strong>t Murison.<br />

SNAPDRAGON 28+ ***** [13D,A]<br />

This is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> best 28's in SA and <strong>of</strong>fers superb climbing over 30m.<br />

First Ascent: Richard Lord & Mike Hislop 1992<br />

HACK AND SLAY 31 *** [16D,A,R]<br />

Starts 6m right <strong>of</strong> SNAPDRAGON. Also about 30m in length. <strong>The</strong> route has a bouldery crux which has been made harder <strong>of</strong><br />

l<strong>at</strong>e with some crux holds breaking <strong>of</strong>f. R<strong>at</strong>her lead out <strong>at</strong> <strong>the</strong> top.<br />

First Ascent: Richard Lord 1994<br />

GIANTS 26 ** [12D,A]<br />

About 15 to 20m right <strong>of</strong> 'Hack and Slay'. <strong>Climb</strong> <strong>the</strong> overlaps to anchors <strong>at</strong> <strong>the</strong> huge ro<strong>of</strong>.<br />

First Ascent: Mike Cartwright 1993<br />

RUDE BUSHMEN 24 **** [15D,A]<br />

This route starts 3m left <strong>of</strong> 'Lotters Desire'. Short people che<strong>at</strong> with some rocks to start <strong>the</strong> route.<br />

First Ascent: Alard Hufner 1998<br />

LOTTER'S DESIRE 28 **** [11D,A]<br />

This is an excellent climb on wh<strong>at</strong> may appear to be a slabby wall but be careful as it is steep. It goes up <strong>the</strong> right side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

red wall which is a right facing corner. Anchors have been added recently.<br />

First Ascent: 1993 Richard Lord BB Gary Lotter<br />

TUGELA BLUE 27 **** [13D]<br />

About 15m right <strong>of</strong> LOTTERS DESIRE this route blasts through <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong>s heading slightly right. Clipping <strong>the</strong> 3rd bolt before<br />

starting, avoids horrible rope drag. This route overhangs by almost 10m!<br />

First Ascent: Alard Hufner 1998<br />

SOUL MANDATE 25 **** [11D,A]<br />

About 5m left <strong>of</strong> MISS MCKINLEY, starting between <strong>the</strong> fork <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> big white tree. A thuggish start leads to some really good<br />

climbing above.<br />

First Ascent: Jul 2004 Mark Millar<br />

MISS MCKINLEY 23 *** [9D,A]<br />

Starts just right <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> main overhang. <strong>The</strong> first moves are bouldery. Careful <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> tree.<br />

First Ascent: Alard Hufner 1998<br />

STRATA 32 **** [B,A]<br />

Good route with a tough crux higher up. This starts just left <strong>of</strong> TRIPOLACTIC FAIRYTALES.<br />

First Ascent: Paul Brouard April 2001 BB M<strong>at</strong><strong>the</strong>w Murison<br />

TRIPOLACTIC FAIRYTALES 27 **** [8D]<br />

Originally an open project <strong>of</strong> Martin Seegers. Some good moves to a ledge in a corner and back onto <strong>the</strong> face to <strong>the</strong> chains.<br />

First Ascent: Will W<strong>at</strong>kins Jul 1998 BB Darryl Margetts & M<strong>at</strong>t Murison<br />

BEEHIVE 12 * [15D,A]<br />

Just right <strong>of</strong> TRIPOLACTIC FAIRYTALES <strong>the</strong>re is a tree growing on <strong>the</strong> rock. <strong>The</strong> route starts right <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> roots. Move<br />

leftward toward <strong>the</strong> recess above and <strong>the</strong>n up <strong>the</strong> wall to <strong>the</strong> left. Take care <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> bees.<br />

First Ascent: Greg Devine & Darryl Margetts 1996<br />

TREE HOUSE 20 ** [14D,A]

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