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The Restaurant at the End of the Universe (The ... - Climb ZA

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traverse left for about 4m to a layback seam. <strong>Climb</strong> up <strong>the</strong> seam to <strong>the</strong> chains. Some consensus grading is requested.<br />

First Ascent: M<strong>at</strong>t Murison & Mark Seuring Mar 1999<br />

MOONDANCE 20 *** [12D,A]<br />

<strong>Climb</strong>s <strong>the</strong> recess about 5m to <strong>the</strong> right <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> M&M box (pillar), for about 15m. Some crack climbing.<br />

First Ascent: Clair Keeton 1999 BB Mark Seuring<br />

ANTS IN YOUR PANTS 28 * [6D,A]<br />

About 20m right <strong>of</strong> MOONDANCE. Fe<strong>at</strong>ures a crux th<strong>at</strong> can be harder without a huge armspan.<br />

First Ascent: Mark Seuring 1999<br />

ONCE IN A BLUE MOON 19 ** [11D,A]<br />

Start below <strong>the</strong> chimney in <strong>the</strong> corner, climb <strong>the</strong> layback crack to gain <strong>the</strong> chimney, climb up inside <strong>the</strong> chimney and make a<br />

tricky move to exit <strong>the</strong> chimney to gain <strong>the</strong> thin face above, which leads directly up to <strong>the</strong> chains. <strong>The</strong> face <strong>at</strong> <strong>the</strong> top<br />

provides excellent climbing.<br />

First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts Jan 1999<br />

BLOOD ON THE ROCKS 23+ *** [10D,A]<br />

Goes up and to <strong>the</strong> left <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> arete. (Opened <strong>at</strong> 21!)<br />

First Ascent: Dylan Morgan<br />

DOOM 18 ** [10D,A]<br />

Start in <strong>the</strong> middle <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> face about 1m left <strong>of</strong> CENOTAPH CORNER, which starts in <strong>the</strong> corner, continues diagonally up left<br />

to <strong>the</strong> arete, <strong>the</strong>n up <strong>the</strong> arete tending up right to <strong>the</strong> chains above.<br />

First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts Jan 1999<br />

NEITHER HERE NOR THERE 19 *** [A]<br />

This climb has only been top roped using <strong>the</strong> chains on DOOM, as it was decided th<strong>at</strong> it would be too contrived with<br />

CENOTAPH CORNER to <strong>the</strong> right and DOOM to <strong>the</strong> left. However, it is a good climb if you don't move onto <strong>the</strong>se o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

climbs. <strong>The</strong> easiest is to climb DOOM to set up <strong>the</strong> top rope. Start in <strong>the</strong> middle <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> face about 1m left <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> corner, as<br />

for DOOM, continue straight up <strong>the</strong> middle <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> face avoiding going too far left onto DOOM, to <strong>the</strong> same chains as DOOM.<br />

First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts Jan 1999<br />

CENOTAPH CORNER 16 **** [9D,A]<br />

Starts in <strong>the</strong> corner with a chimney, climb up and out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> chimney and continue up <strong>the</strong> corner to finish on <strong>the</strong> chains just<br />

to <strong>the</strong> left.<br />

First Ascent: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash Jan 1999<br />

OLD CRUSTY'S LAST STAND 18 ** [10D,A]<br />

<strong>Climb</strong> up <strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>f width to <strong>the</strong> ledge above, <strong>the</strong>n follow <strong>the</strong> open book to <strong>the</strong> top.<br />

First Ascent: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash Feb 1999<br />

BE QUICK OR BE DEAD 25 *** [10D,A]<br />

Starts just right <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>f width and about 2m to <strong>the</strong> left <strong>of</strong> HIGH SPEED DIRT. <strong>Climb</strong> <strong>the</strong> face ONLY (don't use <strong>the</strong> face on<br />

<strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>of</strong>f width). <strong>The</strong> first few moves are very balancy. <strong>The</strong> chains are shared with HIGH SPEED DIRT.<br />

First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts Nov 1998<br />

HIGH SPEED DIRT 20/21 **** [11D,A]<br />

Starts to <strong>the</strong> right <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> face around <strong>the</strong> corner from WOMEN AIN'T NOTHING BUT TROUBLE, opposite <strong>the</strong> large tree.<br />

Follow <strong>the</strong> crack all <strong>the</strong> way to <strong>the</strong> top, sharing <strong>the</strong> same chains as <strong>the</strong> BE QUICK OR BE DEAD & OLD CRUSTY'S LAST<br />

STAND.<br />

First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts Nov 1998<br />

WOMEN AIN'T NOTHING BUT TROUBLE 24 **** [9D,A]<br />

Starts about 3m to <strong>the</strong> left <strong>of</strong> CHICS FOR FREE, climb <strong>the</strong> face directly in line with <strong>the</strong> bolts through a crux and <strong>the</strong>n move<br />

right to an obvious layback crack to <strong>the</strong> chains.<br />

First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts Dec 1998<br />

CHICS FOR FREE 15 ** [9D,A]<br />

Starts about 10 m around <strong>the</strong> corner <strong>of</strong> TECHER'S PET and follows <strong>the</strong> corner to <strong>the</strong> top.<br />

First Ascent: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash Nov 1998<br />

TEACHER'S PET 15 * [8D,A]<br />

Start about 4m to <strong>the</strong> left <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> pinnacle.<br />

First Ascent: Greg Devine & Darryl Margetts Jan 1999<br />

PROJECT [A]<br />

Steve Broccardos's project between TEACHER'S PET & ZELLWEGER.<br />

ZELLWEGER 17 *** [9D,A]<br />

Starts about 2m to <strong>the</strong> left <strong>of</strong> THE PALLBEARER and goes <strong>of</strong>f slightly to <strong>the</strong> right. <strong>The</strong>se chains can also be reached when<br />

coming down from <strong>the</strong> rap point.<br />

First Ascent: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash Sep 1998<br />

ZELLWEGER VARIATION 17 *** [9D,A]<br />

<strong>Climb</strong> <strong>the</strong> same as ZELLWEGER and <strong>the</strong>n move <strong>of</strong>f to <strong>the</strong> left under <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> and pull through to finish on independent<br />

chains.<br />

First Ascent: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash Sep 1998<br />

THE PALLBEARER 17/18 ** [6D,A]<br />

Starts directly below <strong>the</strong> rap point and directly opposite FISTICUFFS on <strong>the</strong> pinnacle.<br />

First Ascent: Darryl Margetts & Ken Thrash Oct 1998<br />

FISTICUFFS 13 * [5D,A]<br />

Start on <strong>the</strong> far right corner <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> pinnacle, passing <strong>the</strong> ledge to <strong>the</strong> top. About opposite ANGEL OF MERCY.<br />

First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts Aug 1998<br />

IT'S 13 JIM, BUT NOT AS WE KNOW IT 15 * [6D,A]<br />

Start on <strong>the</strong> far left corner <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> pinnacle. L<strong>at</strong>eral thinking is required for this climb. About opposite ANGEL OF MERCY.<br />

First Ascent: Ken Thrash & Darryl Margetts Nov 1989<br />

ANGEL OF MERCY 16 **** [8D,A]<br />

Start about 3m to <strong>the</strong> right <strong>of</strong> THE PALLBEARER <strong>at</strong> <strong>the</strong> upside down V shaped flake. <strong>The</strong> chains cannot be seen from <strong>the</strong><br />

ground.

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