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Waterval Boven Guide - December 2011.pdf - Climb ZA

Waterval Boven Guide - December 2011.pdf - Climb ZA

Waterval Boven Guide - December 2011.pdf - Climb ZA

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BEAUTY IS IN THE EYE OF THE BELAYER 22 *** [10D] One bolt on the face<br />

takes you through the trees with funky moves onto the face above and to the top of the<br />

crag. A 60m rope is just long enough! FA: Gustav Janse van Rensburg & Ed Febraury<br />

2007<br />

ENDLESS BLOWJOB 18 *** [12D] The well marked climb left of LITTLE BONSAI.<br />

FA: G Frost and D Margetts. MCSA bolts.<br />

LITTLE BONSAI 16 **** [12D] The first route left of the recess where<br />

CHIMNEYING TAMMY hides away. Classic at the grade. G Frost and D Margetts.<br />

MCSA bolts.<br />

CHIMNEYING TAMMY 15 *** [7D] Typical chimney climb to the left of GMGMG.<br />

Technical and fun climbing to a ledge above which you can top out on or ab in from<br />

chains. FA: Gary Lowther 2003<br />

GOATS MILK GIVES ME GASTRO 22 *** [9D] Scramble up to the left of Diseased<br />

Mad Cow to find the line on the inside arête, just outside the cave. Cruxy start then onto<br />

face above, try keep right towards chains. FA: Rory Lowther 2003<br />

DISEASED MAD COW 22 *** [11D] Start in a corner 12m right of GRUNT. <strong>Climb</strong><br />

the crack, then onto ledge to traverse out right and through the roof onto the arête and<br />

up. FA: Rory Lowther 2003<br />

GRUNT 24 ** [Trad] The obvious roof crack with easier headwall. FA: Mark Seuring &<br />

Steve Broccardo 2002<br />

I FEEL ROCKS 24 ** [8D] Starts on a pile of rocks 3m left of Biogalactic<br />

Gargleblaster. Power through the roof and traverse diagonally up to slabs above. FA:<br />

Sean Ferguson 2003<br />

UP YOUR TREE 20 *** [9D] Shares a start with I Feel Rocks. Use the tree to get onto<br />

the overlap. Join up with the final moves on Biogalactic Gargleblaster. FA: Gustav<br />

Janse van Rensburg 2003.<br />

BIOGALACTIC GOBBLEBLASTER 20 *** [8D] Start 8m right of GRUNT. Dynamic<br />

start onto jugs can also be done statically if tall (to cheat: use the tree or traverse from<br />

the right). <strong>Climb</strong> a few meters to a ledge, then some face moves to chains. Awesome<br />

photo opportunity of climb, from ledges out right of chains. FA: Rory Lowther 2003<br />

CAVIARS WHISKERS 17 *** [9D] Start 5m right of the previous climb up the<br />

obvious layback crack in the big recess just before the scramble out of the crag. Follow<br />

bolts diagonally right. FA: Fabrice Blaise 2000<br />

25

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