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The following morning we began our exploration of the area around the hotel grounds. During the
course of the day we enjoyed a broad selection of the Guianan Shield avifauna. We first walked the
entrance road finding a number of Waved Woodpeckers, a single Green Aracari and a pair of Blackheaded
Antbirds, and enjoyed good looks at a pair of Guianan Warbling Antbirds. Overhead we were
treated to a near endless procession of parrots including Blue-and-yellow and Scarlet Macaws, and
Caica Parrot, Dusky, Blue-headed and Orange-winged Parrots. At flowering trees in the grounds we
saw Grey-breasted Sabrewing and White-necked Jacobin, while along the road we saw Black-eared
Fairy and had better views of the male Crimson Topaz. We also saw a number of Guianan
(Violaceous) and Green-backed (Amazonian White-tailed) Trogons, a couple of Paradise Jacamars, a
Black Nunbird dust bathing in the road, a pair of Black-spotted Barbets, Channel-billed and Whitethroated
Toucans, and Yellow-tufted, Yellow-throated, Waved and several huge Red-necked and
Lineated Woodpeckers. Along the forest trails we saw a pair of Ruddy Spinetails, a family group of
Musician Wrens, a single Scale-backed Antbird and, most memorably, a Pavonine Cuckoo. The
latter, a rarely seen denizen of terra firma rainforests, simply flopped onto a dead branch right next to
us. As Charlotte had not seen Screaming Piha before we made the effort to see a couple of these
rather drab cotingids. We also found a mixed flock with Dusky-throated Antshrike, Brown-bellied
Antwrens, Wedge-billed and Chestnut-rumped Woodcreepers and a Whiskered Flycatcher. In the late
afternoon, after seeing a number of Red-throated Caracaras, several Little Chachalacas, innumerable
White-throated Toucans and a number of parrots we found a group of three Red-billed Pied Tanagers.
So ended another bird packed day and we retired to the dining facilities for another huge meal.
The following morning we headed south to the INPA Canopy Tower. This magnificent 42-meter
tower gave us unparalleled views over the canopy and an instant flurry of activity. We started with
another group of stunning Red-billed Pied Tanagers, Flame-crested and Fulvous-crested Tanagers, a
Yellow-backed Tanager together with a rather plump looking Golden-sided Euphonia. During the
course of a somewhat warm morning we had a male Guianan Toucanet come to have a look at us
and numerous Waved Woodpeckers while the parade of displaying Pompadour Cotingas and the
Spangled Cotingas provided us with a memory that will last for some time. We also saw Plumbeous
Pigeon, Golden-winged Parakeets, a number of Grey Elaenias and a Guianan (split from Slenderfooted)
Tyrannulet, and a number of Yellow-throated Flycatchers. We enjoyed great views of Greenbacked
Trogon, White Hawk the rare Glossy-backed Becard and quite a number of tanagers and
honeycreepers; including Spotted and Yellow-backed Tanagers and Black-faced and Blue Dacnis, as
well as Short-billed, Purple, and Green Honeycreepers. Walking away from the tower we hit an
understorey flock with its attendant leaders: Dusky-throated and Cinereous Antshrikes. These bullies
were keeping a wary eye on their workers; pairs of White-flanked, Long-winged, and Grey Antwrens.
In the same flock we also saw Chestnut-rumped, Plain-brown, Olivaceous and Wedge-billed
Woodcreepers along with both the commoner Plain Xenops and a single Rufous-tailed Xenops.
After a long hot day we made a quick visit to the INPA campina along the highway looking for the
small number of specialities restricted to nutrient deficient white-sand forest. Although often a
difficult habitat to work, we very quickly found a couple of pairs of Bronzy Jacamars, a single Spotted
Puffbird and numerous Saffron-crested Tyrant-Manakins. The latter must be thought of as abundant at
this site. We then found a male Yellow-crested Manakin which displayed for some of us. A storm was
brewing and we went in search of Mario who had vanished to get a tyre fixed. As is the Brazilian way
he turned up just in time and we retreated to Presidente Figuierido. Anyway, suitably famished we
eagerly conjured images of our next feast which duly arrived at table on our return.
At 5.45 the following morning we were enjoying breakfast at the Lajes Campina. This is the best of
the accessible white-sand forests near Manaus and we devoted the entire morning to finding some of
the rarest and most localized species in the Amazon basin. We started walking the newly cut grid
finding, firstly the numerous Green-tailed Goldenthroats and a pair of Rufous-crowned Elaenias,
while Scaled Pigeons displayed and numerous pairs of Blue-and-yellow Macaws flew overhead to
some distant feeding ground. A single Southern White-fringed Antwren sang at the precise moment a
2 Birdquest: Amazonian Brazil 2011